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UNITED  STATES  HYDROGRAPHIC  OFFICE 

BUREAU    OF 


THE  NAVIGATION 


OF  THE 


PACIFIC  OCEAN,  CHINA  SEAS,  ETC, 


TRANSLATED   AT. 


THE  UNITED  STATES  HYDROGRAPHIC  OFFICE, 


FROM  THE  FRENCH  OF 


MONS.  F.  LABROSSE, 


j.  w.  MILLER, 


LIEUTEXAXT  U.   S.  KAV1'. 


WASHI^GTOX: 

OOVEENMENT     PRINTING     OFFICE. 
1875. 


V        i  5; 


!: 


ADVERTISEMENT. 

6Q 

_____^__^ 

3 
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Ul 

The  Navigation  of  the  Pacific  Ocean  has  been  translated  at  this  office 
from  the  French  of  M.  F.  Labrosse,  as  a  valuable  addition  to  our  knowl- 
edge of  the  winds  and  currents  of,  and  routes  through,  this  ocean. 

B.  H.  W. 
U.  S.  HYDRoaRirmc  OFFICE, 

April  20,  1874. 


NOTE. 


The  bearings  are  true.  The  distances  are  expressed  in  nautical  miles. 
The  orthography  of  the  geographical  names  is  in  accordance  with  the 
latest  English  and  Americas  standards. 


TABLE    OF    CONTENTS. 


PAET  I. 

CALMS,  WINDS,  TYPHOONS,  USE  OF  THE  BAROMETER,  CURKENT8,  ICKHKKGS. 

CHAPTER  I. 

Calms,  winds,  typhoons,  cyclones,  barometer. 

Paragraphs.  Page. 

$  1.  Calm-belts;  equatorial  and  tropical  calms 1 

§  2.  Northeast  trade-winds 7 

$  3.  Southeast  trade-winds 8 

§  4.  Prevailing  winds  of  the  west  Pacific 8 

1.  North  of  the  equator 

2.  South  of  the  equator 9 

§  5.  Zones  of  general  westerly  winds 10 

§  6.  Prevailing  winds  on  the  coast  of  Australia 13 

$  7.  Prevailing  winds  in  Bass  strait 15 

$  8.  Prevailing  winds  on  the  coast  of  New  Zealand 16 

§  9.  Prevailing  winds  in  New  Caledonia 18 

$  10.  Prevailing  winds  in  the  Society  islands 18 

$  11.  Prevailing  winds  in  the  Marquesas  islands 19 

$  12.  Prevailing  winds  in  the  Sandwich  islands 19 

§  13*.  Prevailing  winds  in  the  Java  sea 20 

$  14.  Prevailing  winds  in  the  Banda,  Timor,  and  Molucca  seas 20 

$  15.  Prevailing  winds  in  the  Sulu  and  Celebes  seas 21 

$  16.  Prevailing  winds  in  the  Arafura  sea 21 

$  17.  Prevailing  winds  in  the  China  sea 22 

$  18.   Prevailing  winds  on  the  coast  of  Luzon 24 

$  19.  Prevailing  winds  in  the  sea  and  islands  of  Japan 24 

$20.  Typhoons  of  the  China  sea ...  25 

$  21.  Prevailing  winds  on  the  coast  of  Chile 30 

$  22.  Prevailing  winds  on  the  coast  of  Peru 31 

$  23.  Prevailing  winds  on  the  coast  of  Colombia,  and  in  the  bay  of  Panama 32 

$  24.  Prevailing  winds  on  the  coasts  of  Guatemala,  Mexico,  and  California 35 

$  25.  Use  of  the  barometer 37 

$26.  Cyclones  of  the  Pacific  ocean 41 

CHAPTER  II. 

Currents,  icebergs. 

§  27.  The  equatorial  current ., 49 

$28.  The  equatorial  counter-current 50 

$29.  The  Australian  currents,  (east  coast) -51 

$  30.  The  Australian  currents,  (south  coast  from  cape  Leeuwin  to  Bass  strait)..  52 

$31.  The  Rossel  current 53 


VI  CONTENTS. 

Page. 

§  32.  General  currents  in  the  "  Seas  of  Passage  " 54 

9  33.  The  great  Antarctic  drift-current 54 

$34.  The  Mentor  current - 55 

$  35.  The  currents  of  the  China  sea...v 55 

$  36.  The  currents  of  the  Japan  sea 57 

$  37.  The  Kuro-Siwo  or  Japan  current 59 

$  38.  The  Kamchatka  and  Behriug  currents 61 

$  39.  The  currents  of  the  coasts  of  California  and  Mexico 61 

$  40.  Deep  currents  of  the  bay  of  Panama 62 

$  41.  The  currents  of  the  coasts  of  Chile  and  Peru 62 

$  42.  The  Cape  Horn  current 63 

$43.  Icebergs 64 

PART  II. 

OBSERVATIONS   ON   THE   PRINCIPAL  ROUTES   ACROSS   THE   PACIFIC   OCEAN. 

CHAPTER  I. 
Routes  from  south  to  north  on  the  western  coast  of  America. 

$  44.  Route  from  cape  Horn  or  the  strait  of  Magellan  to  Valparaiso 71 

$  45.  Route  from  cape  Horn  or  the  strait  of  Magellan  to  the  "  intermediate  ports" 

of  Coquimbo,  Mexillones,  Islay,  Iquique,  and  Arica 81 

$  46.  Route  from  cape  Horn  or  the  strait  of  Magellan  to  Callao 81 

$  47.  Route  from  cape  Horn  or  the  strait  of  Magellan  to  Payta  and  Guayaquil..  84 

$  48.  Route  from  cape  Horn  or  the  strait  of  Magellan  to  Panama «    84 

$  49.  Route  from  cape  Horn  or  the  strait  of  Magellan  to  Acapulco,  San  Bias,  and 

Mazatlau 85 

$  50.  Route  from  cape  Horn  or  the  strait  of  Magellan  to  San  Francisco 88 

$51.  Route  from  Valparaiso  to  the  "intermediate  ports"  and  Callao •    95 

$  52.  Route  from  Valparaiso  to  San  Francisco . . : 99 

$  53.  Route  from  Callao  to  Payta  and  Guayaquil 99 

$  54.  Route  from  Callao  to  Panama 100 

$  55.  Route  from  Callao  to  Guatemala  and  Mexico . .*. 103 

$  56.  Route  from  Callao  to  San  Francisco 104 

$  57.  Route  from  Payta  or  Guayaquil  to  Panama 105 

$58.  Route  from  Payta  or  Guayaquil  to  San  Francisco 105 

$  59.  Route  from  Panama  to  Mexico 105 

$  60.  Route  from  Galapagos  islands  to  cape  San  Lucas 106 

$  61.  Route  from  Panama  to  Reakjo  and  from  Reakjo  to  Acapulco 107 

$  62.  Route  from  Panama  to  Sau  Francisco 109 

§63.  Route  from  Mexico  to  San  Francisco 112 

$  64.  Route  from  Monterey  to  Sau  Francisco 115 

$  65.  Route  from  San  Francisco  to  Vancouver 115 

CHAPTER  II. 
Eoutcs  from  north  to  south  on  the  western  coast  oj  America. 

$  66.  Route  from  Vancouver  to  San  Francisco  and  Monterey 116 

$67.  Route  from  San  Francisco  to  Mexico -. 117 

$68.  Route  from  San  Francisco  to  Panama 117 

$  69.  Route  from  San  Francisco  to  Callao 119 

$  70.  Route  from  San  Francisco  to  the  "  intermediate  ports  " 123 

$  71.  Route  from  San  Francisco  to  Valparaiso 123 


CONTENTS.  VII 

I';iK.-. 

§  72.  Route  from  San  Francisco  to  cape  Horn 124 

§  73.  Route  from  Mexico  to  Panama 124 

§  74.  Route  from  Mexico  to  Guayaquil 125 

$75.  Route  from  Mexico  to  Callao 120 

§  76.  Route  from  Mexico  to  the  "  intermediate  ports,"  Valparaiso,  and  cape  Horn  128 

§  77.  Route  from  Panama  to  Guayaquil,  Payta,  and  Callao 128 

§  78.  Route  from  Panama  to  the  "  intermediate  ports,"  Valparaiso,  and  cape  Horn  129 

§  79.  Route  from  Guayaquil  and  Pay ta  to  Callao 129 

§  80.  Route  from  Guayaquil  and  Payta  to  the  "intermediate  ports" llil 

§  81.  Route  from  Guayaquil  and  Payta  to  Valparaiso  and  cape  Horn 131 

§  82.  Route  from  Callao  to  the  Chiucha  islands 132 

§83.  Route  from  Callao  to  the  "intermediate  ports" i:j:5 

§  84.  Route  from  Callao  to  Valparaiso 135 

§  85.  Route  from  Callao  to  cape  Horn 128 

§  86.  Route  from  the  "  intermediate  ports  "  to  Valparaiso  and  cape  Horn 139 

§  87.  Route  from  Valparaiso  to  cape  Horn 139 

§  88.  Route  from  Valparaiso  to  Concepcion 141 

CHAPTER  III. 
Routes  from  the  western  coast  of  America  across  the  Pac'ijic. 

§  89.  Route  from  Valparaiso  or  Callao  to  Australia,  (by  the  trades)  144 

§  90.  Route  from  Valparaiso  or  Callao  to   the  Indian  ocean,  Saigon,  Jiatavia, 

and  Melbourne,  etc 145 

§  91.  Route  from  Valparaiso  or  Callao  to  New  Caledonia  and  New  Zealand 148 

§92.  Route  from  Valparaiso  or  Callao  to  China 149 

$  93.  Route  from  Valparaiso  to  the  Marquesas  and  Tahiti 150 

§  94.  Route  from  Callao  to  the  Marquesas  and  Tahiti 151 

§  95.  Route  from  Valparaiso  or  Callao  to  the  Sandwich  islands 152 

§  96.  Route  from  Panama  to  Australia,  New  Caledonia,  and  New  Zealand 15:i 

§  97.  Route  from  Panama  to  China 153 

§  98.  Route  from  Panama  to  the  Marquesas  and  Tahiti 153 

§99.  Route  from  Panama  to  the  Sandwich  islands 154 

§  100.  Route  from  San  Francisco  to  Australia,  New  Caledonia,  and  New  Zealand  155 

§  101.  Route  from  San  Francisco  to  China 15(5 

§  102.  Route  from  San  Francisco  to  the  Sandwich  islands 159 

§  103.  Route  from  San  Francisco  to  Tahiti 159 

CHAPTER  IV. 
Routes  from  Europe  to  Australia,  New  Caledonia,  and  Tahiti,  and  return  rouh*. 

§  104.  Route  from  Europe  to  Australia 161 

§  105.  Route  from  Europe  to  New  Caledonia 177 

§106.  Route  from  Europe  to  Tahiti 18C 

§  107.  Route  from  Australia  to  Europe 187 

§108.  Route  from  New  Caledonia  to  Europe 195 

§  109.  Route  from  Tahiti  to  Europe 198 

CHAPTER  V. 
Eoutes  from  the  ports  of  Australia  or  Asia  to  the  east. 

§  110.  Route  from  Australia  to  the  western  coast  of  America 200 

§  111.  Route  from  Australia  to  New  Caledonia 202 


VIII  CONTENTS. 

Page. 

§  112.  Koute  from  Australia  to  New  Zealand 20? 

$  113.  Route  from  Australia  to  Tahiti  aud  the  Sandwich  islands 207 

$  114.  Route  from  Singapore  to  the  Molucca  islands 208 

§  115.  Route  from  Singapore  to  Torres  strait 212 

$  116.  Route  from  Singapore  to  the  western  coast  of  America 213 

§  117.  Route  from  Saigon  to  the  western  coast  of  America 215 

$  118.  Route  from  China  to  Valparaiso,  Callao,  and  Panama 216 

§  119.  Route  from  China  to  Mexico  aud  California 219 

§  120.  Route  from  Yokohama  to  San  Francisco 220 

CHAPTER  VI. 

i 
Routes  from  the  ports  of  Oceania. 

§  121.  Route  from  the  Sandwich  islands  to  San  Francisco 222 

$  122.  Route  from  the  Sandwich  islands  to  Panama 223 

$  123.  Route  from  the  Sandwich  islands  to  Valparaiso  and  Callao 224 

$124.  Route  from  the  Sandwich  islands  to  Europe 225 

§  125.  Route  from  the  Sandwich  islands  to  New  Caledonia  and  Australia 225 

§  126.  Route  from  the  Sandwich  islands  to  China 226 

§  127.  Route  from  the  Sandwich  islands  to  Tahiti 226 

§  128.  Route  from  the  Marquesas  to  the  Sandwich  islands 227 

$  129.  Route  from  the  Marquesas  to  Tahiti 227 

§  130.  Route  from  Tahiti  to  San  Francisco 228 

§  131.  Route  from  Tahiti  to  the  Gambier  islands,  Tubuai,  Valparaiso,  Callao, 

and  Panama 228 

§  132.  Route  from  Tahiti  to  New  Caledonia,  New  Zealand,  and  Australia 230 

$133.  Route  from  Tahiti  to  China 234 

§  134.  Route  from  Tahiti  to  the  Marquesas  islands 234 

$135.  Route  from  Tahiti  to  the  Sandwich  islands 235 

§  136.  Route  from  New  Caledonia  to  San  Francisco 236 

§  137.  Route  from  New  Caledonia  to  Valparaiso,  Callao,  and  Panama 236 

§138.  Route  from  New  Caledonia  to  Australia 236 

§  139.  Route  from  New  Caledonia  to  Singapore,  China,  and  Japan 240 

§  140.  Route  from  New  Caledonia  to  Tahiti 247 

$  141.  Route  from  New  Caledonia  to  New  Zealand 252 

§  142.  Route  from  New  Caledonia  or  the  Fijis  to  the  Sandwich  islands 253 

§  143.  Route  from  New  Zealand  to  Europe 256 

§  144.  Route  from  New  Zealand  to  the  western  coast  of  America 257 

$  145.  Route  from  New  Zealand  to  New  Caledonia 257 

$  146.  Route  from  New  Zealand  to  Australia,  Singapore,  aud  China 

$  147.  Route  from  New  Zealand  to  Tahiti  and  the  Sandwich  islands 259 

CHAPTER  VII. 

Routes  from  Europe  to  China,  and  return  routes. 
$  148.  Showing  under  what  circumstances  the  Suez  route  is  preferable  to  and 

from  China 260 

$  149.  Route  from  Europe  to  China,  (during  the  SW.  monsoon,  from  April  to 

October) 261 

§  150.  Route  from  Europe  to  China,  (during  the  NE.  monsoon,  from  October  to 

April) 263 


CONTENTS.  IX 

Page. 
$  151.  Route  from  China  to  Europe,  (during  the  NE.  monsoon,  from  October  to 

April) 273 

$  152.  Route  from  China  to  Europe,  (during  the  SW.  monsoon,  from  April  to 

October) 274 

CHAPTER  VIII. 

Routes  to  the  northward  in  the  China  8ra. 

$  153.  Route  from  Singapore  to  Saigon 278 

$  154.  Route  from  Singapore  to  Hong-Kong 281 

$  155.  Route  from  Singapore  to  Manila 285 

$  156.  Route  from  Singapore  to  Shanghae  and  Yokohama 286 

$  157.  Route  from  Saigon  to  Hong-Kong 288 

$  158.  Route  from  Saigon  to  Manila 291 

$  159.  Route  from  Hong-Kong  to  Shanghae 292 

$  160.  Route  from  Hong-Kong  to  Japan 296 

$  161.  Route  from  Manila  to  Hong-Kong 297 

$  162.  Route  from  Manila  to  Shanghae  and  Yokohama ...  298 

$  163.  Route  from  Shanghae  to  Japan ,  298 

CHAPTER  IX. 

Routes  to  the  southward  in  the  China  sea. 

$  164.  Route  from  Japan  to  Shanghae 301 

$  165.  Route  from  Shanghae  to  Hong-Kong 303 

$  166.  Route  from  Hong-Kong  to  Manila 303 

$  167.  Route  from  Hong-Kong  to  Saigon  and  Singapore 304 

$168.  Route  from  Manila  to  Saigon 309 

$  169.  Route  from  Manila  to  Singapore,  the  strait  of  Sunda,  and  Europe 310 

$  170.  Route  from  Saigon  to  Singapore 311 

CHAPTER  X. 

Routes  from  the  Australian  ports  to  Asia  and  China. 

$  171.  Northerly  route  from  Australia  to  India,  Batavia,  and  Singapore 318 

$  172.  Southerly  route  from  Australia  to  India,  Batavia,  and  Singapore 332 

§173.  Route  from  Australia  to  Coch in-China,  China,  and  Japan 336 

$174.  Route  from  Port  Adelaide  or  Melbourne  to  Sydney 340 

CHAPTER  XI. 

Routes  from  China  and  Asia  to  Australia. 

$  175.  Route  from  Singapore  to  Australia -342 

$  176.  The  easterly  routes  from  Singapore  or  Batavia  to  Australia,  New  Cale- 
donia, and  New  Zealand,  (when  starting  from  the  15fft  November  to  the 

15th  February) 345 

$177.  Route  from  China  and  Japan  to  Australia 353 

$  178.  Route  from  Sydney  to  Melbourne 358 

II — N 


PA.RT   I. 


CALMS,  WINDS,  TYPHOONS,  USE  OF  THE  BAROM- 
ETER, CURRENTS,  ICEBERGS. 


CHAPTER  I 

CALMS,  WINDS,  TYPHOONS,  CYCLONES,  BAROMETER. 

§  1.  CALM-BELTS,  EQUATORIAL  AND  TROPICAL  CALMS.— 
In  the  author's  Instructions  for  the  Navigation  of  the  Atlantic, 
tables  were  given  indicating,  for  every  season,  the  percent- 
age of  calms  experienced  in  each  square  of  5  degrees. 
The  following  tables  are  prepared  in  a  similar  manner  : 
As  may  be  observed,  information  is  wanting  for  the  cen- 
tral portion  of  the  North  Pacific,  comprised  between  the 
meridians  365°  W.  and  150°  E.    Directions  for  the  other 
parts,  including  the  most  frequented  routes,  are,  on  the 
contrary,  as  full  as  could  be  desired. 
IN 


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I 


6  REGION  OF   CALMS. 

An  inspection  of  the  preceding  tables  proves  the  existence 
of  a  clearly  denned  region  of  calms,  lying  between  the  two 
sets  of  trades  in  the  eastern  part  of  the  Pacific.  These 
calms  are  termed  equatorial.  It  is  also  shown  that  the 
zone  in  which  the  navigator  is  most  exposed  to  detention 
from  calms,  takes  the  form  of  a  wedge,  the  base  resting  on 
the  coasts  of  Guatemala  and  Mexico,  between  5°  and  25° 
K,  and  the  apex  extending  to  the  westward  for  a  distance 
varying  according  to  the  season. 
January, Febru-  Thus,  in  JanuarVi  Februarv,  and  March,  calms  are  com- 

•ary  and  March 

mon  on  the  western  coast  of  America  from  the  equator  to 
20°  N.  Vessels  making  passage  to  the  northward,  east  of 
110°  W.,  will  find  a  calm-belt  about  20°  wide,  when  they 
will  be  liable  to  from  4  to  G  per  cent,  of  calms. 

Between  110°  and  130°  W.  the  belt  is  only  10°  wide  5 
here  there  are  only  4  per  cent,  calm  chances.  Finally,  west 
of  130°  W.  the  calm-belt  may  be  said  to  cease,  vessels 
usually  passing  from  one  set  of  the  trades  to  the  other 
without  being  appreciably  detained. 
April, May, and  In  April,  May,  and  June,  the  calm-belt  extends  from  the 

JllD6 

120th  meridian  to  the  coast  of  America,  causing  navigation 
on  the  Mexican  coast,  from  the  gulf  of  Tehuantepec  to  cape 
Corrientes,  to  be  almost  impossible  for  sailing-vessels.  The 
calms  in  this  locality  often  last  for  several  successive  weeks. 
Well  defined  equatorial  calms  are  not  encountered  west  of 
,120^  w.;  or  at  the  farthest  130°  W. 

July,  August,  The  equatorial  calms  are  of  greater  duration  during  these 
'  months  and  prevail  north  of  10°  N.  They  extend  from  the 
coast  of  Mexico  to  140°  W.  East  of  130°  W.  they  extend 
as  far  north  as  the  30th  parallel;  between  130°  and  140° 
W.  the  calm-belt  is  only  10°  broad,  while  west  of  140°  W- 
calms  are  no  longer  common. 

Se"  *11  ^ct°Der?  November,  and  December,  a  calm-belt  ex- 
tends  from  the  Mexican  coast  to  120°  W.,  and  from  10°  to 
20°  or .25°  2f.  Farther  to  the  westward  several  calnvregious 
exist,  but  they  have  none  of  the  attributes  of  genuine  calm- 
belts.  Equatorial  calms  also  exist  in  the  West  Pacific, 
especially  between  the  equator  and  10°  S. ;  in  the  Central 
Pacific,  however,  though  the  numerous  groups  of  islands 
interrupt  the  trades,  calms  rarely  prevail  to  any  great  ex- 
tent. 

Tropical  calms.     Tropicul  calms  are  those  which  prevail  on  the  polar  bor- 


NORTHEAST   TRADES. 

ders  of  the  trades.  The  calms  of  the  tropic  of  Cancer  are 
only  well  defined  in  the  eastern  part  of  the  Pacific,  and 
during  the  months  comprised  between  April  and  Septem- 
ber. They  are  common  between  the  parallels  30°  and  40° 
N.  East  of  Japan,  however,  and  between  the  same  paral- 
lels, the  calms  are  of  greater  duration,  except  during  Octo- 
ber, November,  and  December. 

The  calms  of  the  southern  hemisphere,  near  the  tropic  of 
Capricorn,  are  especially  prevalent  from  October  to  April. 
During  this  season  they  occupy  a  belt  extending  over 
nearly  the  whole  breadth  of  the  Pacific,  and  reaching  from 
25o  to  4Qo  s. 

During  the  rest  of  the  year  they  are  not  comprised  in  so 
well  defined  a  region.  But  it  is  important  to  note  that  in 
the  eastern  portion  tropical  calms  exist  at  all  seasons  in  a 
more  marked  manner,  and  have  a  greater  width  in  latitude, 
appearing  to  increase  on  approaching  the  coast  of  America. 

Later  will  be  given,  in  the  descriptions  of  the  various 
routes,  more  detailed  information  on  the  chances  of  deten- 
tion by  calms. 

§  2.  NORTHEAST  TRADE- WINDS.— The  trade- winds  of  the 
Pacific  Ocean  blow,  in  the  northern  hemisphere,  from  a  gen- 
eral northeasterly  direction.  They  are  usually  stronger  than 
the  NE.  trades  of  the  Atlantic  Ocean. 

We  have  already  had  occasion  to  observe,  in  the  Instruc- 
tions on  the  Atlantic,  how  difficult  it  is  to  solve  the  question 
of  the  limits  of  the  trades.  We  again  repeat  that  it  is  not 
best  to  rely  too  much  on  the  mean  latitudes  indicated  in 
the  Instructions,  because  there  will  sometimes  exist  a  dif- 
ference of  600,  and  even  900,  miles  between  these  mean 
limits  and  those  which  may  be  found  in  attempting  to  enter 
or  leave  the  trades. 

We  think  it  best,  however,  to  give  below  the  parallels 
between  which  the  regular  NE.  trades  are  most  often  en- 
countered : 

In  .January,  February,  and  March,  the  trade- winds  blow  a 
from  KB.,  between  6°  and  25°  N. 

In  April,  May,  and  June,  they  blow  between  7°  30'  and  j^ril* May>  and 
29°  N. 

In  July,  August,  and  September,  between  14°  30'  and  ai£& 
280  N. 


SOUTHEAST  TRADES. 

verocbereami  Se"     In  Octo^^r?  November,  and  December,  between  9°  and 

cember.'  "  25O  Jf. 

The  trades  do  not  begin  to  be  well  defined  within  300 
miles  of  the  western  coast  of  America.  On  coming  closer 
to  the  coast  variable  winds  are  found,  according  to  the  sea- 
son of  the  year.  (Vide  §§  23  and  24.) 

Though  the  western  limits  of  the  NE.  trades  can  hardly 
be  definitely  fixed,  it  is  generally  conceded  that  these  winds 
extend,  all  the  year  round,  as  far  as  the  Caroline  and  Ma- 
riana Islands.  Monsoons  prevail  westward  of  these  groups. 
(Vide  §  4.) 

Finally,  the  NE.  trades  of  the  Pacific  attain  their  greatest 
force  while  the  sun  is  in  the  southern  hemisphere,  or,  in 
other  words,  from  October  to  March.  This  remark  applies 
to  all  trade-winds,  for  they  are  always  stronger  when  the 
sun  is  in  the  opposite  hemisphere ;  when  the  sun  is  in  their 
own  hemisphere,  they  are,  on  the -contrary,  always  weak, 
baffling,  and  often  changed  to  monsoons  blowing  from  an 
opposite  direction. 

§  3.  SOUTHEAST  TRADE-WINDS. — The  southeast  trades  are 
especially  prevalent  in  the  eastern  part  of  the  Pacific,  be- 
tween the  following  parallels : 
January, rebru-     In  January,  February,  and  March,  between  4°  and  31°  S. 

ary,  and  March. 

junperil'May>and     In  April,  May,  and  June,  between  2°  30'  X.  and  27°  S. 
anduse'  tetS5*'     In  Jul^>  August,  and  September,  between  5°  30'  K.  and 

25o  S. 
October,    NO-     in  October,  November,  and  December,  between  3°   K. 

vember,  and  De- 
cember, and  26°  S. 

These  limits  are,  however,  merely  approximative,  especi- 
ally for  the  SE.  trades,  which  are  much  less  regular  than 
the  northeast. 

Settled  SE.  winds  will  be  found  from  250  or  300  miles  off 
the  coast  of  America  to  108°  or  118°  W.,  while  west  of 
.  these  meridians  the  wind  shifts  to  E.  and  ESE.  Beyond 
138°  W.  the  trades  become  exceedingly  variable,  undergoing 
such  changes,  especially  from  October  to  April,  that  some 
authors  consider  them  to  possess  all  the  characteristics  of 
genuine  monsoons. 

This  question  will  be  reconsidered  in  the  second  part  of 
§4. 

North    of   the      §  4.    PREVAILING   WINDS    OF   THE    WEST    PACIFIC. — In- 
formation  concerning  the  prevalent  winds  north   of  the 


PHEVAILING  WINDS.  <> 

Line  is  far  from  being  complete;  consequently  too  muck 
confidence  must  not  be  placed  in  the  following  remarks: 

NE.  winds  prevail  in  the  West  Pacific  during  this  season.  Apr^to  ber  to 
Though  called  the  NE.  monsoon,  they  are  in  reality  only 
the  steady  trade-wind.  Near  the  Caroline  islands  the  NE. 
monsoon  does  not  set  in  steadily  until  January,  while  north 
of  this  group  and  among  the  Mariana  islands  it  sometimes 
begins  in  November  and  lasts  till  May  or  June ;  in  short,  the 
duration  of  the  monsoon  varies  considerably.  The  NE. 
winds  are  generally  accompanied  with  good  weather. 

All  authorities  agree  in  stating  that  steady  SW.  winds  April  to  octo- 
prevail  at  this  season ;  near  the  Philippine  islands,  from 
May  to  September,  and  in  the  Mariana  group,  from  July  to 
August,  they  are  especially  common.  This  is  the  rainy 
season  in  these  localities.  SW.  winds  are  frequent  in  the 
neighborhood  of  the  Bonin  islands  from  April  to  July,  but 
too  much  reliance  must  not  be  placed  on  the  chance  of 
meeting  winds  from  this  direction,  in  the  western  portion 
of  the  North  Pacific;  and  even  in  the  neighborhood  of  the 
Mariana  and  Caroline  groups,  due  allowance  should  be 
made  for  variations  in  the  SW.  monsoon. 

Hurricanes  are  common  among  the  Marianas,  and  to    Hurricanes. 
eastward  of  the  group,  especially  in  June,  July,  August, 
December,  and  January.    They  follow  the  laws  governing 
cyclones  in  the  northern  hemisphere.     (Vide  §  26.) 

In  §  3  we  stated  that  the  SE.  trades  are  unsettled  to  west-  Es°utjr  of  the 
ward  of  138  °  W. ;  this  is  especially  the  case  from  October  to 
April. 

The  winds  are  very  variable  during  this  season,  through- A^1tober  to 
out  the  region  included  between  138°  W.  and  about  170° 
E.,  and  from  the  Equator  to  25°  S. 

Westerly  winds  are  here  nearly  as  frequent  as  easterly 
winds ;  that  is,  the  squares  on  the  wind-charts,  where  the 
westerly  winds  predominate,  are  almost  as  numerous  as 
those  containing  winds  from  an  opposite  quarter.  It  fol- 
lows, therefore,  that  at  this  season  passages  from  west  to 
east  are  made  under  sail  with  less  difficulty  than  during 
the  rest  of  the  year. 

The  NW.  monsoon  prevails,  at  this  season,  to  the  west- 
ward  of  about  170°  E. ;  and  from  the  Equator  or  1°  N.,  to 
15°  S.,  or  even  19°  S.  This  monsoon  begins  in  October, 
with  winds  shifting  from  N.  to  NW.,  and  from  W.  to  SW., 


10  MONSOONS, 

accompanied  by  storms,  calms,  and  rain.  The  west  winds 
begin  to  be  regular  after  the  month  of  November  and  last 
until  March.  The  NW.  wind,  or  rather  N  W.  monsoon,  pre- 
vails, during  January  and  February,  along  the  coasts  of 
New  Guinea  and  the  adjacent  islands,  and  extends  to  170° 
E.,  but  after  March  the  direction  of  the  wind  again  varies 
considerably. 

storms.  It  can  be  stated  in  general  terms,  that  the  bad  season  of 

the  whole  extent  of  the  South  Pacific,  west  of  138°  W.,  lasts 
from  October  to  April;  the  weather  is  then  rainy  and 
stormy  and  the  wind  exceedingly  variable.  Storms  are 
common  at  this  season  between  10°  and  25°  S.,  and  com- 
mence as  simple  squalls,  the  wind  not  changing  in  direc- 
tion. Near  the  Tonga  group  they  appear  to  follow  the  law 
of  cyclones  for  the  southern  hemisphere,  (vide  §  26.)  The 
worst  gales  are  from  November  to  April,  but  fortunately 
they  are  of  rare  occurrence. 

The  good  sea-  The  good  season  of  the  South  Pacific  lasts  from  April  to 
October.  The  trades  are  then  found  to  westward  of  138° 
W.  They  are,  however,  variable  for  different  localities, 
shifting  from  SSE.  to  E.,  and  even  to  NE.  Voyages  from 
east  to  west  are  then  easily  made.  Even  at  this  season, 
however,  the  winds  are  scarcely  ever  steady  and  strong 
from  SE.,  except  in  the  extreme  west  of  the  Pacific,  near 
the  New  Hebrides,  Solomon,  and  New  Guinea,  during  the 
months  of  June,  July,  and  August.  In  these  quarters  the 
SE.  trades  may  be  justly  termed  the  SE.  monsoon,  in  con- 
tradistinction to  the  NW.  monsoon,  which  begins  to  blow 
there  in  November.  The  change  occurs  during  September 
and  October.  In  September  the  SE.  winds  blow  gently. 
In  October  squalls  and  variable  westerly  winds  set  in. 

§  5.  ZONES  OF  GENERAL  WESTERLY  WINDS. — The  In- 
structions on  the  North  Atlantic  (§  3)  and  on  the  South 
Atlantic  (§  4)  contain  descriptions  of  the  prevailing  west- 
•  erly  winds,  which  are  applicable  in  all  respects  to  the 
Pacific.  We  shall  merely  give  a  summary  review  of  those 
descriptions,  adding  a  few  further  details. 

General  westerly  winds  are  encountered  at  some  distance 
beyond  the  polar  limits  of  both  sets  of  trades,  the  trade- 
wind  limit  itself  following  the  changes  in  the  SUQ'S  declina- 
tion, (vide  §§  2  and  3.)  Two  principal  antagonistic  currents 
in  the  atmosphere — called  the  polar  and  tropical  winds — 


POLAR   AND   TROPICAL   WINDS.  11 

exist  in  the  region  of  variables.  A  rotary  movement  in  the 
atmosphere  is  produced  by  the  meeting  of  these  currents, 
causing  cyclones  or  revolving  storms. 

Navigators  at  the  present  time  are,  however,  a  little  too 
apt  to  fall  into  the  error  of  imagining  that  every  storm  they 
encounter  is  a  cyclone.  This  remark  is  especially  applicable 
to  the  Pacific,  where  real  circular  storms,  with  the  excep- 
tion of  the  typhoons  of  the  China  seas,  are  very  rare. 

In  either  hemisphere  the  wind  from  the  direction  of  the  ^cedenSbJnd 
adjacent  pole  is  cold,  dry,  and  squally ;  while  the  wind  from  tropical  winds. 
the  equator,  or  tropical  wind,  is  warm,  damp,  and  rainy. 
Thus,  when  the  wind  is  blowing  from  SW.,  in  the  northern 
hemisphere,    and  the  sky   shows  signs  of  clearing  to  the 
NW.  or  N".,  while  at  the  same  time  the  thermometer  falls, 
and  the  deck,  sails,  and  rigging  dry  rapidly,  it  follows  that 
the  wind  will  soon  come  out  from  NW.  and  N.    These  signs 
are  verified  by  a  rise  in  the  barometer. 

The  same  rule  applies  for  the  southern  hemisphere,  when 
the  wind  is  from  N  W.,  and  the  sky  is  inclined  to  clear  to  the 
SW.  or  S.,  the  wind  then  of  course  shifting  to  the  southward. 

On  the  other  hand,  the  N".,  NE.,  and  E.  winds  of  the  north- 
ern hemisphere  will  change  to  SE.,  S.,  and  SW.,  when  the 
sky  becomes  overcast  to  the  south  ward,  the  weather  warmer, 
and  the  deck,  rigging.  &c.,  covered  with  dampness ;  while 
at  the  same  time  the  glass  falls. 

The  corresponding  changes  for  the  southern  hemisphere 
are  from  S.  to  E.,  and  then  to  the  northward  and  westward, 
with  the  northern  horizon  overcast. 

In  spite  of  their  apparent  irregularity,  the  so-called  vari- 
able icinds  follow  a  general  law  in  all  their  changes  of  direc- 
tion. In  the  northern  hemisphere  they  all  rotate  with  the 
hands  of  a  watch,  thus  W.  Q  E. ;  in  the  southern,  their  ro- 
tation is  in  a  contrary  direction,  thus,  W.  O  E.  When,  as 
sometimes  occurs,  the  winds  act  contrary  to  this  law  of  rota- 
tion, they  are  said  to  back  ;  and  in  such  an  event  it  is  pru- 
dent to  take  precautions  against  bad  weather,  and  to  watch 
the  barometer  and  the  horizon. 

A  fact  of  equal  importance,  and  one  well  known  to  sail- 
ors, is,  that  when  the  westerly  winds  are  well  from  the 
southward  in  the  northern  hemisphere,  or  well  to  the  north- 
ward in  the  southern,  they  do  not  attain  much  strength  until 
they  have  blown  for  some  time.  On  the  contrary,  the  shifts 


12  SOUTHEAST   GALES. 

of  wind  toward  the  adjacent  pole  are  generally  quick,  and  the 
subsequent  weather  bad.  On  this  account  it  is  advisable 
for  vessels  encountering  bad  weather  from  the  SW.,  in  the 
northern  hemisphere,  to  lie  to  on  the  starboard  tack,  in  order 
to  guard  against  sudden  changes  of  wind  from  SW.  to  FW. 
On  the  port  tack  they  would  be  liable  to  be  taken  aback, 
and  their  spars  endangered.  In  the  southern  hemisphere,  on 
the  other  hand,  with  bad  weather  from  the  XW.,  it  is  advis- 
able to  lie  to  on  the  port  tack  in  order  to  keep  the  sails  full 
when  the  wind  shifts  violently  from  !NW.  to  SW. 

Observations  of  Captain  Prouhet,  on  the  usual  course  of 
storms  in  the  southern  hemisphere,  (Ann.  Hydr.,  vol.  31 :) 

"  Besides  numerous  gales,  we  experienced  continued  bad 
weather,  while  in  the  high  latitudes  of  the  Pacific. 

"  The  SB.  gales  began  and  ended  at  nearly  the  same  com- 
pass point ;  the  wind  blowing  furiously,  but  scarcely  ever 
changing  more  than  from  4  to  G  points ;  SSE.  and  E.  were 
the  extreme  limits.  At  times  the  wind  sprang  up,  increased, 
and  died  away  from  the  same  point ;  at  others,  it  shifted  to 
E.  before  falling,  when  it  quickly  fell  calm. 

"  The  shifts  of  wind  did  not  take  place  as  they  should, 
from  the  northward  to  the  westward ;  the  gales,  on  the  con- 
trary, being  preceded  by  a  retrograde  motion  of  the  wind. 
If  the  wind,  after  shifting  from  W.  or  l^W.  toward  N.,  got 
as  far  round  as  SE.,  and  the  horizon  became  overcast,  a 
southeaster  was  almost  sure  to  follow.  The  wind  very 
rarely  shifted  in  a  contrary  direction  as  far  as  E.,  for 
when  it  reached  the  SE.  point  it  died  away  altogether,  and 
afterward  sprang  up  from  NE.,  blowing  a  gale.  In  passing 
to  the  northward  it  increased  slowly,  blowing  violently 
when  it  reached  the  NW.  point ;  after  having  blown  from 
this  direction  for  a  little  while,  it  inclined  toward  *W. 
and  SW.,  and  sometimes  suddenly  shifted  to  the  latter 
point.  Here  the  squall  was  at  its  worst,  though  it  fortu- 
nately lasted  for  only  a  short  time.  If  it  continued  to  rotate 
toward  S.  the  weather  quickly  cleared,  and  the  wind  abated  ; 
though  a  gentle  breeze  from  S.  and  SE.  could  be  expected 
for  a  day  or  two.  But,  now  and  then,  the  wind  did  not 
even  follow  this  law,  and  backed  again  toward  the  west- 
ward, after  the  first  burst  from  the  SW.  In  this  case  the 
wind  returned  with  fresh  vigor,  after  a  considerable  inter- 
val, during  which  numerous  gusts  showed  that  this  was 


PREVAILING  WINDS — AUSTRALIA.  13 

only  a  lull  in  the  violence  of  the  storm.     After  this  the  wind 
always  came  out  very  strong  from  SW. 

"  The  squalls,  which  afterward  blew  fiercely  from  the  W. 
and  SW.,  began  generally  from  W.  and  NW.,  with  gusts, 
fog,  or  rain  ;  they  grew  violent  from  SW..  and  continued  to 
increase,  swinging  slowly  around  to  the  southward,  ending 
at  the  SE.  in  furious  blasts.  Throughout  they  were  more  a 
succession  of  violent  shocks  than  a  steady  gale.  At  times 
there  were  intervals  during  which  the  weather  moderated 
and  seemed  on  the  point  of  clearing;  but  these  lulls  were 
followed  by  renewed  squalls  from  SW.,  which  blew  with 
redoubled  violence.  Each  new  blast  drew  nearer  to  SE. 
than  the  preceding  ones,  until  having  finally  reached  this 
point  the  wind  died  away  without  returning  to  the  south- 
ward ;  in  fact,  it  more  often  fell  after  reaching  E.  We  en- 
countered these  "  bursters  "  in  quite  high  latitudes  for  vari- 
able winds;  between  the  latitudes  56°  and  45°  we  were 
driven  before  one  for  five  days." 

§  6.  PREVAILING  WINDS  ON  THE  COAST  OF  AUSTRALIA. — 
On  the  NW.  coast  of  Australia,  between  Melville  island  and 
cape  Northwest,  the  winds  are  irregular  from  March  to  De- 
cember. But  in  summer,  that  is  to  say,  from  December  to 
March,  the  land-breezes  are  steady  from  E.  to  NE.,  and  the 
sea-breezes  from  SSW.  to  SSE.  The  usual  winds  prevail 
along  this  coast.  From  October  to  April,  the  west  monsoon, 
with  variable  gusts  from  SW.  and  NW.;  from  April  to  Oc- 
tober, the  east  monsoon,  with  variable  winds  from  E.  and  SE., 
when  the  dry  season  commences.  These  laws  hold  as  far  The  west  coast. 
as  the  tropics;  but  on  going  farther  south,  from  cape  Cuvier 
to  cape  Leeuwin,  the  prevalent  winds  are  from  NW.  to  SW. 
The  northerly  winds  blow  only  for  short  periods,  but  are 
excessively  warm  ;  those  from  NW.  are  common  and  often 
violent  in  the  vicinity  of  cape  Leeuwin.  Next  to  the  NW. 
winds  the  SW.  are  the  strongest.  In  short,  this  part  of  the 
coast  of  Australia  is  exposed  to  very  heavy  winds  and  seas; 
the  vapor  in  the  atmosphere  is  condensed  on  approaching 
the  coast  and  causes  showers,  squalls,  and  bad  weather, 
particularly  during  the  rainy  season,  from  May  to  October. 
Land-breezes  from  E.  and  NE.  are  common  during  the  sum- 
mer mouths,  while  in  with  the  land  sea-breezes  prevail  from 
W.  and  SW.  The  latter  are  particularly  to  be  noticed  in 
December,  January,  and  February. 


14  PREVAILING  WINDS — AUSTRALIA. 

The  south  coast.  [North  of  a  line  drawn  from  the  Recherche  islands  to  capes 
Northumberland  arid  Bridgewater,  regular  land  and  sea 
breezes,  varying  from  SE.  to  ENE.,  may  be  expected  from 
the  15th  January  to  the  15th  April.  During  this  season 
stiff  blows  are  sometimes  met  with,  which,  in  case  of  their 
shifting  to  SW.,  become  violent.  During  the  remainder  of 
the  year  the  prevalent  direction  of  the  wind  to  northward 
of  the  line  given  above  is  west. 

Westerly  winds  prevail  in  the  offing  at  all  seasons,  es- 
pecially from  April  to  November,  when  stiff  gales,  with  a 
high  sea  and  heavy  swell  setting  to  the  eastward,  are  found. 
The  gales  usually  begin  from  NW.,  and  after  an  interval 
shift  suddenly  to  SW. ;  frequently  they  work  back  to  NW., 
following  the  general  law  given  in  the  preceding  paragraph. 
During  the  summer,  particularly  in  February,  there  will 
sometimes  be  an  easterly  wind  favorable  to  vessels  making 
passage  from  cape  Otway  to  cape  Leeuwiu.  Still,  it  would 
not  be  advisable  to  count  upon  such  a  wind. 

The  east  coast.  Dry  weather  and  west  winds  prevail  during  the  winter 
months,  from  May  to  September,  from  Bass  strait  to  Sandy 
cape;  rain  and  warm  NW.  and  N.  winds  are,  however,  quite 
frequent.  Well  off  the  coast  the  weather  is  bad,  and  the 
prevalent  wind  from  NE.  to  S. 

During  the  summer  months  the  wind  on  this  part  of  the 
E.  coast  is  usually  ft*>rn  SE.  and  the  weather  fine.  The 
land-breezes  near  the  shore  increase  in  steadiness  near  the 
tropic;  but  while  running  to  the  southward,  past  cape  Howe, 
navigators  should  be  on  the  lookout  for  southerly  and  south- 
westerly squalls  and  strong  winds  from  N.  to  ENE.,  fol- 
lowed by  rainy  weather.  The  warm  NW.  summer  winds 
of  the  east  coast  generally  terminate  in  a  sudden  shift  to 
SE.  and  SSW.  A  description  of  the  prevalent  winds  of 
the  coast  from  the  tropic  of  Capricorn  to  Torres  strait  will 
be  found  in  §  4.  From  the  end  of  April  to  September 
the  wind  is  SE.,  while  during  the  remainder  of  the  year 
the  NW.  monsoon  prevails,  with  its  accompanying  bad 
weather,  rains,  and  variable  winds. 

The  following  quotation  is  taken  from  the  Ann.  Hydr., 
vol.  31 : 

Southerly  burs-     "Strangers    sailing    along  the  east  coast  of  Australia 

ters  or  brickfield-    ,         ,  ,   ,  ,.  ,,  -,  ,,     , 

era.  should  take  every  precaution  against  the  tornadoes  called 

'southerly  bursters,'  which  are  common  during  the  sum- 


PREVAILING  WINDS — AUSTRALIA.  15 

mer  months.  They  generally  set  in  after  the  ordinary  NE. 
winds  and  blow  a  gale  for  from  2  to  12  hours.  If  the 
weather  be  clear,  the  wind  NE.,  and  black  thunder-clouds 
and  forked  lightning  are  noticed  to  the  SW.,  the  barometer 
falling,  it  is  necessary  to  shorten  sail,  for  the  wind,  after 
blowing  very  stiffly  from  NE.,  will  die  away  calm,  and 
then  after  a  few  moments'  calm  come  out  from  S.  with  great 
strength.  After  having  blown  from  2  to  12  hours  it  will 
pass  from  S.  and  SE.  to  E.,  after  which  the  usual  summer 
wind  will  set  in  with  a  rising  barometer.  Sometimes  the 
wind  blows  violently  from  the  S.  for  two  or  three  days,  af- 
terward veering  from  E.  to  NE. 

"Dangerous  squalls  may  also  be  expected  from  NW. 
These  winds  are  warm,  accompanied  by  thick  clouds  charged 
with  electricity,  the  barometer  being  low ;  they  shift  ab- 
ruptly from  W.  to  SSW.  and  S.  with  lightning  and  occa- 
sional rain,  and  blow  violently  for  a  short  time.  Forked 
lightnings  on  this  coast  invariably  indicate  more  wind,  or  a 
sudden  change  of  wind  from  the  quarter  in  which  it  light- 
ens, or  at  least  unsettled  weather. 

"  The  winter  squalls  generally  come  from  the  west  with  a 
clear  sky  and  blow  furiously  for  two  or  three  days,  com- 
mencing at  NNW.  and  passing  to  the  westward  with  a  low 
barometer.  The  barometer  rises  after  the  wind  reaches 
SW.,  and  the  force  of  the  storm  gradually  abates.  Some- 
times the  wind  jumps  from  NW.  to  SW.,  with  a  loss  of 
strength. 

"  The  easterly  squalls  are  the  most  dangerous  for  stran- 
gers ;  they  begin  from  SE.  with  the  barometer  at  30in.OO  and 
overcast  weather  and  heavy  swell  from  the  eastward ;  they 
pass  from  E.  to  ENE.,  then  return  to  E.  and  E3E.,  blowing 
with  great  violence,  accompanied  by  rain  and  a  heavy  cross- 
sea.  They  last  from  24  to  48  hours.  Sometimes  they  begin 
with  gloomy  and  overcast  weather,  light  baffling  winds,  an 
easterly  swell,  and  forked  lightning  from  all  points  of  the 
compass.  In  this  case  vessels  should  put  to  sea  to  await 
good  weather." 

§  7.  PREVAILING  WINDS  IN  BASS  STRAIT. — W.  and  SW. 
winds  prevail  in  this  strait  the  whole  year  round.  The 
winds  are  generally  strong  and  the  squalls  frequent.  The 
latter  begin  at  NNW.  with  the  barometer  falling  from  29iu.92 
to  29in.G8,  and  even  lower,  they  become  very  strong  in  shift' 


1C 


PREVAILING  WINDS— NEW  ZEALAND. 


ing  to  W.  and  SW.  When  they  back  from  SW.  and  W. 
toward  NW.  the  weather  generally  becomes  worse.  Jan- 
uary, February,  and  March  are  the  only  months  during 
which  a  vessel  may  pass  through  the  strait  with  a  favor- 
able easterly  wind.  When  these  winds  blow  the  weather  is 
ordinarily  fine. 

In  conclusion,  the  system  of  winds  is  here  the  same  as 
that  of  the  south  coast  of  Australia,  described  in  the  pre- 
ceding paragraph.  But  at  the  eastern  entrance  of  the 
strait,  and  E.  of  Van  Diemen's  Land,  the  winds  are  similar 
to  those  of  the  E.  coast  of  Australia,  also  mentioned  §  6. 
It  is  necessar5T  to  be  extremely  cautious  against  squalls  from 
SW.  to  SE.,  especially  those  from  the  latter  point.  NE. 
winds  are  also  common,  but  never  attain  any  great  strength. 

§  8.  PREVAILING  WINDS  ON  THE  COAST  OF  NEW  ZEA- 
LAND.— New  Zealand  includes  three  large  islands :  the  north- 
ern, or  Ika-Na-Mawi ;  the  middle,  or  Tavai-Pounainou ;  and 
the  southern,  or  Stewart.  The  northern  and  middle  islands 
are  separated  by  Cook's  strait;  the  middle  and  southern  by 
Foveaux  strait. 

isTortb  island.  On  the  east  coast  the  weather  generally  moderates  in 
summer.  At  this  season,  from  cape  North  to  cape  East, 
the  sea-breezes  blow  regularly  from  NE.  during  the  day ; 
and  the  land-breezes  from  W.  during  the  night.  On  this 
part  of  the  coast  the  winter  winds  prevail  from  NW.  to 
SW. ;  they  also  blow  strongly  from  NE.  and  NW.,  shifting 
at  the  end  of  24  hours  toward  WSW.  and  SW.  with  clear- 
ing weather.  The  SE.  winds  are  very  cold,  being  frequent 
and  violent  near  cape  East.  Between  cape  East  and  Cook 
strait  squalls  are  common  in  winter  from  SE.  and  S. ;  the 
climate,  however,  is  good  on  this  part  of  the  coast. 

On  the  west  coast  of  North  island  the  winds  are  steady 
from  NW.  to  SW.  during  the  year.  In  winter  the  NW. 
wind  is  naturally  rainy.  The  most  violent  squalls  are  in 
the  spring  and  autumn.  The  great  rains  take  place  in  July, 
August,  and  September;  fogs  are  frequent  in  October  and 
November,  particularly  in  the  morning. 

Cook  strait.  In  this  strait  it  is  almost  always  windy  either  from  the 
NW.  or  SE.  On  approaching  the  strait  the  wind  is  nearly 
always  from  one  or  the  other  of  these  directions.  It  fre- 
quently blows  a  gale  from  NW.  or  SE.  In  crossing,  the 
wind  often  shifts  from  cape  to  cape,  especially  on  leaving 


PREVAILING  WINDS — NEW  ZEALAND. 


17 


the  strait.  There  is  then  danger  of  being  taken  aback, 
and  it  would  be  advisable  for  steamers  under  sail  to  light 
their  fires.  April,  August,  November,  and  December  are 
months  of  comparatively  good  weather.  SE.  winds  pre- 
ceded by  a  fall  in  the  barometer  are  most  frequent  in  winter, 
(May,  June,  and  July;)  at  this  season  it  is  not  advisable  to 
pass  through  the  strait  from  west  to  east.  Violent  squalls 
from  NW.,  with  a  very  high  barometer,  occur  oftenest  in 
spring  and  summer,  from  September  to  March. 

The  best  months  on  the  eastern  coast  are  December,  Jan-    Middle  island. 
nary,  February,  and  March $  winter  is  the  season  for  squalls 
and  rain,  especially  in  June,  July,  and  August. 

In  summer,  from  December  to  April,  NE.  winds  are  com- 
mon during  the  day ;  laud-breezes  do  not  blow  steadily  at 
night.  In  winter,  NW.  squalls  blow  sharply  and  with  great 
force;  they  are  preceded  by  an  unusual  clearness  of  the 
atmosphere,  and  by  a  falling  barometer;  like  the  sirocco  of 
the  Mediterranean,  they  cause  an  increase  of  ten  degrees  in 
temperature.  Squalls  from  SSE.  and  SSW.  are  preceded 
by  a  falling  barometer,  which  rises  as  soon  as  they  begin. 
They  make  overcast  weather,  and  in  winter  bring  rain ;  in 
spring  and  autumn  they  are  accompanied  by  strong  gusts, 
hail,  and  sleet.  On  the  west  coast  of  Middle  island  the 
prevailing  winds  are  from  NW.  to  SW.  The  NW.,  bringing 
rain  and  cloudy  weather,  hauls  often  to  the  N.  on  nearing 
land.  Rains  are  frequent  on  this  coast.  The  SW.  winds 
prevailing  in  summer  are  fine  and  clear.  Vessels  coming 
up  the  coast  from  Foveaux  strait  have  to  encounter  a 
southerly  current,  and  steady  winds  from  NW.  and  NNW. 
until  they  have  doubled  cape  West. 

Strong  winds  from  N W.  to  SW.  blow  here  almost  inces-  Foveaux  strait 
sautly,  particularly  from  the  former  point,  accompanied  by 
cloudy,  rainy  weather.  It  often  happens  that  the  wind 
blows  from  SW.  on  the  eastern  coast  of  Stewart  island, 
and  from  NNW.  on  the  western  coast  at  the  same  time. 
The  NW.  wind  is  preceded  by  a  falling  barometer,  and  at 
the  end  of  several  days  usually  shifts  to  SW.,  with  a  rising 
barometer  and  clearing  weather.  The  worst  storms  in  this 
strait  occur  in  July. 

Occasionally  heavy   SE.  winds  enable  vessels   to   pass 
through  the  strait  from  east  to  west.    These  may  be  fore- 
told by  a  rise  in  the  barometer  and  a  long  strip  of  clouds  in 
2N 


18  PREVAILING  WINDS— NEW  CALEDONIA. 

the  SE.,  and  ti  light  haze  over  the  mountains  and  horizon. 
These  winds  are  frequently  violent  and  bring  a  drizzling 
rain  and  overcast  weather. 

§  9.  PREVAILING  WINDS  IN  NEW  CALEDONIA.— The  wet 
season  lasts  four  months,  from  the  end  of  December  to 
April ;  rain  is  then  frequent,  particularly  when  the  wind 
blows  from  ENE.  to  WSW.  and  shifts  by  the  north  point 
of  the  compass.  The  other  eight  months  of  the  year  are 
the  dry  season. 

In  the  southern  part  of  the  island  the  winds  during  the 
winter  are  irregular  and  variable,  often  blowing  very 
strongly ;  particularly  in  January  and  February,*  when 
storms  are  to  be  feared.  In  the  northern  part  the  trades 
blow  from  SE.  and  ESS.  nearly  the  whole  year,  except  in 
September  and  October,  when  one  is  particularly  exposed 
to  violent  westerly  storms,  preceded  by  lowering,  foggy 
w-eather,  and  a  dead  calm. 

To  the  southward  of  the  island  the  ESE.  trade-winds 
prevail,  especially  during  the  eight  months  of  the  dry  sea- 
son. From  NW.  and  W.  winds  are  frequent  in  the  neigh- 
borhood of  Noumea.  They  blow  freshly  for  several  hours, 
accompanied  by  rain,  and  preceded  by  a  barometer  at 
between  29in-68  and  29in-80 ;  the  wind  afterward  shifts  to 
SW.  and  S.,  with  clearing  weather.  When  there  are  NW. 
winds  in  the  vicinity  of  Noumea,  it  frequently  blows  from 
SE.  in  the  eastern  part  of  the  island  and  in  Havannah 
channel.  Inversely,  the  wind  is  often  from  NVV.  in  the  SE. 
part  of  the  island,  while  it  is  blowing  from  SE.  near  Noumea. 

In  conclusion,  the  trade- winds  are  especially  prevalent  on 
the  E.  coast  j  in  June  and  December  they  occasionally  blow 
violently. 

If  at  this  time  the  barometer  fall,  look  out  for  heavy 
squalls  and  driving  rain.  A  continued  fall  of  the  barome- 
ter indicates  a  change  of  wind  to  N.  and  NW.,  whence  it 
will  blow  with  great  strength  for  several  hours.  After- 
ward, as  we  have  already  said  in  speaking  of  Noumea,  it 
will  pass  to  SW.  with  clearing  weather. 

§  10.  PREVAILING  WINDS  IN  THE  SOCIETY  ISLANDS. — 
The  Society  or  Tahiti  group  are  situated  in  that  part  of 
the  West  Pacific  where,  as  we  have  already  stated  in  para- 
graphs 3  and  4,  the  SE.  trades  do  not  blow  with  regularity. 
*  Vide  note  011  cyclones,  $  26. 


PREVAILING  WINDS— MARQUESAS   ISLANDS.  19 

In  tbe  eastern  part,  the  winds  ordinarily  prevail  from 
SE.  to  E.  and  NE.  during  the  whole  year;  they  are  now 
and  then  interrupted  by  breezes  from  W.  and  NW.  These 
winds  are  frequently  rainy,  and  blow  strongest  during 
April,  May,  and  June,  liains  are  to  be  expected  also  in 
November,  December,  and  January.  When  the  SE.  trades 
blow  strongly,  it  also  rains  at  times. 

The  trades  blow  in  January,  February,  and  March,  but 
they  vary  greatly  in.  direction.  There  are  seven  to  ten 
per  cent,  chances  of  calms  during  these  three  mouths, 
(vide  tables  §  1.)  In  April,  May,  and  June  the  chances 
of  calms  are  from  five  to  six  per  cent.;  westerly  winds  are 
frequently  felt  in  April ;  in  May  they  blow  steadily  from  W. 
and  NW.;  in  June  the  trades  are  prevalent,  though  still 
frequently  interrupted.  In  July,  August,  and  September 
there  are  only  four  to  five  per  cent,  of  calms;  and  the 
trades,  though  very  variable,  steadily  increase.  In  Sep- 
tember, October,  and  November,  they  are  steadier  than  at 
any  other  time.  For  the  last  quarter  of  the  year  the  table 
in  §  1  indicates  only  from  two  to  three  per  cent,  of  calm- 
chances. 

§  11.  PREVAILING  WINDS  IN  THE  MARQUESAS  ISLANDS. 
— In  the  Marquesas  group  the  trades,  from  April  to  Octo- 
ber, blow  from  ESE.,  varying  at  times  a  few  points  to  the 
southward  or  eastward.  During  the  other  six  months  of 
the  year  they  often  haul  to  ENE.  and  even  to  NNE. 
»  When  the  wind  passes  the  north  point  and  comes  out 
from  NNW.  the  weather  is  squally. 

It  often  rains  in  torrents  during  May,  June,  and  July,  and 
is  windy  and  squally  from  S.  and  SSW.  In  January  it 
rains  hard,  and  violent  NW.  gales  are  then  common. 

Most  of  the  bays,  particularly  the  harbor  Tai-o-hae,  are 
completely  sheltered  from  the  prevailing  winds.  It  is  ex- 
tremely difficult  for  sailing-vessels  to  enter  or  quit]  these 
bays,  and  they  are  often  obliged  to  be  towed  by  their  boats, 
or  at  least  to  have  them  in  readiness  in  case  the  vessel  is 
taken  aback  by  baffling  breezes.  Vessels  with  auxiliary 
steam-power  will,  however,  experience  no  difficulty  in  com- 
ing to  anchor  or  leaving  the  harbors,  as  the  shore  is  high 
and  steep-to. 

§  12.  PREVAILING  WINDS  IN  THE  SANDWICH  ISLANDS. — 
During  the  entire  year  the  trades  prevail  from  NE.  The 


20  PREVAILING  WINDS— JAVA  SEA. 

raiuy  season  lasts  from  January  to  May  ;  during  which  pe- 
riod occasional  N  W.  and  SW.  gales  occur.  In  the  Hawaiian 
group  the  chances  of  calms  never  amount  to  more  than  from 
2  to  3  per  cent. 

Land  and  sea  breezes  blow  on  the  western  coast  of  Hawaii. 
The  damp  or  rainy  season  lasts  from  May  to  September, 
with  occasional  strong  winds  from  SW.  In  December,  Jan- 
uary, and  February  the  weather  is  dry,  with  prevailing 
northerly  winds. 

§  13.  PREVAILING  WINDS  IN  THE  JAVA  SEA. — The  Java 
sea  is  bounded  on  the  north  by  the  islands  of  Borneo  and 
Celebes  ;  on  the  south  by  the  islands  of  Java,  Bali,  Lom- 
bok,  Sumbawa,  Sapi,  and  Flores.  It  communicates  with 
the  China  sea  by  the  straits  of  Banca,  Gaspar,  and  Cari- 
mata,  with  the  Celebes  sea  by  the  strait  of  Macassar,  and 
with  the  Indian  ocean  by  the  straits  of  Sunda,  Bali,  Lombok, 
Alias,  Sapi,  and  Flores. 

In  the  Java  sea  two  monsoons  prevail ;  the  SE.,  though 
frequently  interrupted  by  calms,  begins  in  April,  becomes 
strong  in  May,  and  ends  in  October.  During  this  month 
of  transition  calms  occur.  The  NW.  monsoon  commences 
during  the  first  fortnight  of  November,  blows  with  full  force 
iii  December,  and  lasts  till  the  end  of  March.  In  April  the 
winds  are  again  light,  accompanied  by  showers  and  squalls. 

§  14.  PREVAILING  WINDS  IN  THE  BANDA,  TIMOR,  AND 
MOLUCCA  SEAS. — The  Banda  sea  is  bounded  on  the  north 
by  the  islands  of  Bouro,  Atnboina,  and  Ceram  ;  on  the  south 
by  the  islands  of  Flores,  Pantar,  Ombay,  Serwatty,  and 
Timor-laut.  The  Molucca  sea,  situated  to  the  north  of 
Bouro  and  Ceram,  is  bounded  by  Waygiou,  Gillolo,  and  Cel- 
ebes 5  it  communicates  with  the  Pacific  by  Pitt,  Gillolo,  and 
Dampier  straits.  The  Timor  sea  stretches  from  Timor,  Ser- 
watty, and  Timor-laut,  on  the  north,  to  Mellville  island  and 
The  Banda  sea.  the  coast  of  Australia  on  the  south.  Here  the  monsoon 
generally  blows  from  WNW.  from  October  to  March,  and 
from  ESE.  from  April  to  September.  The  latter  is  called 
the  SE.  monsoon,  (notwithstanding  the  fact  that  it  blows 
from  nearer  east  than  south.)  It  begins  during  April,  and 
tQward  the  end  of  May  has  set  in  steadily  at  Amboina,  Ce- 
ram, and  Banda  islands,  when  it  corresponds  to  the  rainy 
season;  but  it  is  well  to  remark  that,  even  at  this  season, 


PREVAILING  WINDS— SULU  AND   CELEBES  SEAS.  21 

the   weather  is   always  good   at  Bouro  island.     Between 
Bouro  and  Ceram  the  SE.  monsoon  is  sometimes  very  fresh. 

The  NW.  monsoon  generally  brings  squalls,  overcast 
weather,  rain,  and  easterly  currents. 

In  the  Molucca  sea  the  NW.  monsoon  sets  in  during  the^1*6  Molacca 
first  two  weeks  of  November,  and  blows  strongly  from 
December  to  March.  Then  the  transition  period  begins, 
with  variable  breezes,  calms,  squalls,  and  rain.  In  April 
we  have  the  SE.  monsoon,  which  prevails  from  May  to  the 
end  of  September.  In  October  the  transition  period  is 
repeated. 

In  the  passage  between  Celebes  and  Gillolo  the  general 
direction  of  one  monsoon  is  NNW.,  and  of  the  other  SSE. 
At  times  these  directions  are  the  same  in  Gillolo  strait; 
but  the  monsoons  do  not  blow  at  all  regularly  in  this  strait, 
and  still  less  so  in  Dam  pier  and  Pitt  straits;  vessels  can 
consequently  often  pass  through  against  the  monsoon. 

In  the  Timor  sea  the  westerly  winds  are  prevalent  from 
October  to  April,  with  squalls  from  the  Banda  sea.  This 
monsoon  extends  to  15°  or  16°  S.  and  hauls  toward  the 
SW.  The  SE.  monsoon  sets  in  during  the  last  of  May, 
and  lasts,  in  Ihe  neighborhood  of  Timor,  until  the  15th  of 
November. 

§  15.  PREVAILING  WINDS  IN  THE  SULU  AND  CELEBES 
SEAS. — The  Celebes  sea  is  bounded  on  the  south  by  the 
northern  coast  of  Celebes,  on  the  west  by  the  NE.  coast  of 
Borneo,  on  the  north  by  the  Sulu  and  Mindanao  islands, 
and  on  the  east  by  the  Sanguir,  Saddle,  etc.,  chain  of 
islands. 

The  Sulu  sea  is  bounded  on  the  south  by  the  Sulu  islands 
and  the  north  coast  of  Borneo,  on  the  west  by  Palawan, 
and  on  the  east  by  the  Philippines. 

In  the  Celebes  and  Sulu  seas  the  easterly  monsoon  is 
variable  in  October,  though  blowing  strongly  from  NE.  and 
E.  from  November  to  April.  During  the  last  days  of  May 
the  westerly  monsoon  commences ;  it  is  very  variable,  both 
in  strength  and  direction,  with  squalls  and  rain.  In  June 
it  is  well  established,  in  July  rainy  and  stormy,  ending  in 
September. 

§  10.  PREVAILING  WINDS  IN  THE  ARAFURA  SEA.— The 
Arafura  sea  lies  between  the  northern  coast  of  Australia 
and  the  southern  coast  of  New  Guinea;  it  is  bounded  on 


22  PREVAILING  WINDS — CHINA  SEA. 

the  west  by  the  islands  of  Arm  aud  Tirnor-laut,  and  on 
the  east  by  Torres  strait. 

In  the  Arafura  sea  the  westerly  monsoon  brings  the  rainy 
season,  when  thunder  storms  are  violent  and  frequent. 
Captains  having  a  proper  regard  for  the  health  of  their 
crews  or  passengers  will  avoid  the  locality  at  this  season. 
Toward  the  end  of  December  the  NW.  or  W.  winds  are 
strong  and  regular  5  in  February  and  March  they  commence 
to  be  variable.  During  the  latter  month  the  weather  is 
often  gloomy  and  overcast,  with  a  variable  wind  from  SW. 
After  the  beginning  of  April  the  winds  are  from  SE.  and  E. ; 
they  become  settled  after  eight  or  ten  days  of  storm  and 
rain.  From  May  to  August  the  monsoon  blows  strongly 
from  ESE.  to  SE.,  and  lasts  irregularly  until  the  month  of 
October.  In  November  the  winds  are  uncertain  and  the 
calms  frequent,  until  in  December  the  westerly  monsoon 
sets  in. 

§  17.  PREVAILING  WINDS  IN  THE  CHINA  SEA. — The  SW. 
monsoon  prevails  in  the  China  sea  from  the  loth  April  to 
the  15th  October.  It  is  variable  in  force  and  direction, 
especially  in  May ;  on  the  south  coast  of  China  it  is  some- 
times interrupted  by  a  series  of  winds  from  S.  and  SSE., 
and  by  winds  from  E.  and  SE.,  especially  in  the  northern 
part  of  the  China  sea. 

Near  Formosa  and  Formosa  channel  it  is  not  uncommon 
to  find  winds  from  N.  to  E.  during  the  months  of  July, 
August,  and  September,  but  it  is  not  well  to  rely  upon  this 
chance. 

The  SW.  wind  is  first  felt  in  the  neighborhood  of  the 
gulfs  of  Siam  and  Tonquin,  toward  the  middle  of  April,  but 
the  true  monsoon  does  not  reach  its  full  force  until  June, 
July,  aud  August,  when  it  brings  dull  and  rainy  weather. 
It  should  also  be  borne  in  mind  that  typhoons  are  frequent 
during  these  three  months. 

Violent  squalls  preceded  by  heavy  clouds  coming  from 
the  gulf  of  Siam  are  dangerous,  as  far  as  Pulo  Sapata, 
from  May  to  September. 

Strong  squalls,  rotating  from  NW.  to  WSW.  and  S.,  and 
accompanied  by  heavy  rain,  are  also  frequent  at  this  season 
oft'  the  gulf  of  Tonquin. 

Vessels  coasting  from  the  gulf  of  Siam  to  cape  Padaran 
between  May  aud  September  meet  with  light  land-breezes 


PREVAILING  WINDS — CHINA  SEA.  23 

at  night;  slight  Calais  in  the  morning  and  a  steady  monsoon  ' 
from  SW.  during  the  day.  This  is  especially  the  case  be- 
yond cape  Padarau,  and  as  far  as  the  gulf  of  Tonquiu. 
Instead  of  the  SW.  monsoon,  a  genuine  sea-breeze  often 
blows  from  SE.  during  the  day,  alternating  with  light  land- 
breezes  at  night. 

The  SW.  monsoon,  which  first  becomes  settled  in  the 
southern  part  of  the  China  sea,  lasts  longer  in  this  region 
than  in  the  northern  part.  Thus  during  the  month  of  Sep- 
tember and  a  part  of  October  strong  breezes  from  SW., 
bringing  overcast,  rainy  weather,  are  often  found  at  the  en- 
trance of  Balabac  strait.  Southerly  winds  frequently  pre- 
vail between  Singapore  strait  and  Pulo-Sapata,  from  the 
10th  to  the  15th  of  October,  while  NE.  and  E.  winds  are  com- 
mon in  the  northern  part  of  the  China  sea. 

The  NE.  monsoon  begins  in  the  north  of  the  China  sea  Northeast  mon- 
toward  the  end  of  September  or  the  beginning  of  October ; 
but  to  the  southward  of  Pulo-Sapata  and  off  the  western 
extremity  of  Palawan  it  seldom  sets  in  before  the  month  of 
November,  on  account  of  the  greater  persistence  in  these 
quarters  of  the  variable  southerly  winds  which  end  the  SW. 
monsoon. 

Although  the  SW.  winds  blow  in  September,  they  have 
to  contend  against  variable  breezes  from  NE.  to  E.  and  SE. 
This  state  of  things  continues  till  the  October  full  and 
change,  at  which  time  there  is  often  a  storm  from  SW.,  va- 
ry ii g  to  W.  and  NW.  Then  the  wind  passes  to  NNE. 
and  NE.,  sometimes  bringing  with  it  the  NE.  monsoon. 
Some  years  the  weather  during  September  and  October  is 
fine,  and  the  NE.  monsoon  is  not  always  preceded  by  a 
squall.  During  these  months  strong  winds  from  ENE.  and 
NE.  sometimes  blow  for  several  successive  days,  on  the 
coast  of  China. 

In  November  the  NE.  monsoon  is  generally  established  ; 
it  attains  its  greatest  force  and  regularity  in  December  and 
January.  During  these  two  months  heavy  rains  and  seas 
are  found,  especially  between  Singapore,  Pulo-Condore,  and 
Pulo-Sapata.  In  October,  November,  and  the  commence- 
ment of  December  the  weather  is  overcast  and  rainy ;  as  the 
wind  is  variable  it  is  possible  at  this  season  to  sail  either  up 
or  down  the  coast  of  Palawan.  In  February  the  NE.  mon- 


24  PREVAILING  WINDS — LUZON. 

soon  abates:  in  March  it  blows  moderately 5  during  these 
two  months  the  weather  is  fine  in  the  China  sea. 
Gulf  of  Ton-  The  NE.  monsoon  prevails  from  the  latter  part  of  Septem- 
ber to  the  first  of  April  in  the  gulf  of  Tonquin  and  along 
the  coast  to  cape  Padaran  ;  ENE.  winds,  shifting  from  NNE. 
to  SE.,  are  then  common  on  the  southern  coast  of  China. 

Western  coast.       §  18.   PREVAILING  WINDS  ON  THE  COAST  OF  LUZON. — Oil 

the  western  coast  of  Luzon  the  monsoon  varies  from  N.  to 
NNE.  from  November  to  April.  The  winds  at  this  season 
sometimes  shift  to  NW.  and  AY.,  blowing  violently,  and  ac- 
companied by  rain.  During  March  and  April  the  weather 
is  usually  fine,  with  land  and  sea  breezes.  The  SW.  mon- 
soon begins  in  May,  becomes  settled  in  June,  blows  with 
full  force  in  July,  and  lasts  until  the  end  of  September. 
From  June  to  September  the  weather  is  usually  overcast 
and  very  rainy.  The  monsoon  begins  to  abate  after  the  first 
of  October,  and  soon  after  gives  way  to  that  from  the  NE. 

Eastern  coast.  The  weather  is  fine  on  the  eastern  coast  of  Luzon  during 
the  SW.  monsoon,  from  May  to  September,  the  rainy  season 
occurring  at  different  seasons  on  the  eastern  and  western 
coasts  of  the  island. 

The  monsoon  blows  quite  as  often  from  S.  as  it  does  from 
SW.;  winds  are  steadier  during  June,  July,  and  August ; 
during  these  months,  however,  there  is  frequently  a  series 
of  winds  from  SE.,  NE.,  and  NW.  In  April  and  May  it 
blows  quite  as  often  from  NE.  and  E.  as  from  SE.,  S.,  and 
SW.  Finally,  from  the  beginning  of  October  to  the  end  of 
March  the  wind  is  steady  from  NE.,  shifting  only  to  NNE. 
and  E. 

Squalls  near     Around  the  island  of  Luzon,  and  especially  on  the  west- 

Lnzou. 

ern  coast,  from  June  to  October,  and  particularly  during 
September  and  October,  it  is  advisable  to  guard  against 
strong  squalls  which  begin  from  N.  and  NW.,  shifting  to 
W.,  SW.,  and  S.  Though  fortunately  of  short  duration 
they  blow  with  great  strength,  producing  a  very  heavy  sea 
and  rain. 

§  19.  PREVAILING  WINDS  IN  THE  SEA  AND  ISLANDS  OF 
JAPAN. — The  Japan  sea  is  situated  between  the  coast  of  Tar- 
tary  and  the  Japan  islands.  The  system  of  winds  in  this  re- 
gion is  far  from  being  accurately  known.  The  winds  are  va- 
riable; those  from  the  NE.  are  cold,  with  frequent  fogs;  those 
from  the  NW.  and  SW.  bring  fine  weather.  The  dry  season 


TYPHOONS— CHINA   SEAS.  25 

lasts  from  April  to  August,  and  the  rainy  season  from  Sep- 
tember to  March.  Squalls  appear  to  be  frequent  during  the 
bad  season,  especially  from  September  to  December.  They 
begin  by  winds  from  S.,  SE.,  or  NE.,  which  rotate  to  NW. 

It  is  generally  admitted  that  the  monsoons  blow  on  the  S., 
&£'.,  and  E.  coast  of  Niplion  from  NE.,  from  September  to 
April,  and  from  SW.,  with  bad  weather,  gusts,  and  storms, 
and  water-spouts,  from  June  to  September. 

The  transition  period  is  from  the  15th  of  May  to  the  15th 
of  June,  when  rains  are  abundant  Typhoons  are  prevalent 
from  July  to  November. 

But  it  is  not  advisable  to  rely  too  much  on  the  monsoons 
of  these  latitudes.  For  the  prevailing  winds  in  January, 
February,  and  March  off  the  eastern  coast  of  Japan  are  from 
NNW.,  W.,  and  WSW.;  and  in  April,  May,  and  June  from 
S.  and  SW.,  being  very  variable,  and  often  hauling  as  far 
as  E.,  NE.,  and  NW.  as  they  leave  the  coast.  In  July, 
August,  and  September  variable  winds,  mainly  from  a  SE. 
direction,  are  to  be  expected ;  close  to  the  islands  they 
blow  from  NE.  and  N.,  while  out  at  sea  winds  from  SW., 
S.,  SE.,  and  especially  from  E.,  are  found.  In  October, 
November,  and  December,  the  winds  off  the  coast  prevail 
from  NE.  and  N.,  and  especially  from  N  W. :  they  also  some- 
times blow  from  SW.  and  S. 

§  20.  TYPHOONS  OF  THE  CHINA  SEAS.— Typhoons  are 
circular  storms,  which,  though  of  short  duration,  are  often 
extremely  violent.  Two  or  three  typhoons  may  be  en- 
countered during  one  year,  while  during  others  not  one 
will  occur. 

They  make  their  appearance  generally  in  the  northern 
part  of  the  China  sea,  along  the  E.  and  S.  coast  of  China; 
also  on  the  coasts  of  Luzon  ;  between  this  island  and  For- 
mosa;  in  the  Meiaco-Sima,  Loo-choo,  and  Clursau  islands, 
and  on  the  coast  of  Japan,  etc.  They  do  not  appear  to  have 
been  found  in  the  China  sea  southward  of  12°  S. 

Out  of  forty-six  typhoons  mentioned  by  Piddingtou  as 
occurring  between  1780  and  1845,  two  occurred  in  June, 
five  in  July,  five  in  August,  eighteen  in  September,  ten  in 
October,  and  six  in  November. 

The  most  dangerojis_mo£ths  are  therefore  September, 
October,  ajuLJjovernber ;  it  is  best  also  to  be  cautious  in 
June,  July,  and  August;  finally,  from  September  to  the 


26  TYPHOONS — CHINA  SEAS. 

end  of  May  there  is  little  danger  of  meeting  these  storms. 
According  to  Horsburgh,  the  most  terrific  typhoons  happen 
in  June,  July,  and  during  the  September  equinox,  especially 
if  the  moon  is  new  or  at  its  perigee  at  the  same  time ;  the 
strongest  kind  do  not  occur  in  May,  November,  and  Decem- 
ber, except  occasionally  in  the  neighborhood  of  the  Bashees 
and  Formosa  islands,  where  there  are  very  violent  squalls 
in  November.  The  wind  is  strongest  close  to  shore,  and 
less  outside  and  in  the  southern  part  of  the  China  sea. 

It  is  imprudent  to  trust  to  the  chance  of  not  meeting  a 
typhoon  during  May,  November,  and  December;  unfortu- 
nately we  can  cite  in  support  of  this  opinion  the  late  exam- 
ple of  the  Mongo,  a  large  screw  mail-steamer,  which  was 
lost,  with  all  hands,  in  November,  during  a  typhoon,  sev- 
eral days  after  leaving  Saigon  for  Hong- Kong. 

The  fall  of  the  barometer  is  the  principal  sign  of  the  ap- 
proach of  a  typhoon,  (vide  §  26.) 

Great  care  is  to  be  taken  whenever  any  of  the  following 
signs  are  observed  between  the  beginning  of  June  and  the 
first  of  December:  the  horizon  clear  in  some  points,  the 
tops  of  the  mountains  and  islands  enveloped  in  heavy  black 
clouds  ;  on  the  NE.  horizon  a  low,  thick,  black  cloud  of  a 
coppery  tinge,  growing  whiter  toward  the  top.  In  this  last 
case,  when  the  cloud  comes  up  rapidly,  the  typhoon  bursts 
with  rain,  thunder,  and  lightning.  The  hurricane  generally 
lasts  for  about  twelve  hours;  afterward  it  falls  calm  for 
about  an  hour;  the  wind  then  shifts  to  SW.,  and  blows  as 
violently  as  before. 

Finally,  it  is  important  to  notice  that  typhoons  often  burst 
suddenly,  and  without  any  warning  whatsoever. 

Referring  again  to  Horsburgh,  we  will  quote  the  passage 
in  which  he  states  the  manner  in  which  the  winds  rotate, 
after  which  we  shall  enumerate  the  principal  rules  regulat- 
ing these  storms: 

Horsburgh  on  "  Many  ships  have  been  driven  from  the  Grand  Ladrone 
to  the  Mandarin's  cap,  and  even  to  the  Taya  islands,  near 
Hainan,  during  typhoons ;  for  among  the  islands  and  near 
the  coast  these  tempests  generally  commence  between  NW. 
and  N.,  then  veer  suddenly  to  NB.  and  E.,  frequently  blow- 
ing with  inconceivable  fury,  and  raising  the  sea  in  turbu- 
lent pyramids,  which  impinge  violently  against  each  other; 
the  current  at  such  times  runs  strong  to  the  westward.  From 


TYPHOONS — CHINA  SEAS. 


27 


D 


On  their  tuck. 


eastward,  the  wind  veers  to  the  SE.  and  southward,  and 
then  moderates.  This  rotary  motion  of  the  wind  during 
typhoons  is  generally  experienced  contiguous  to  and  within 
a  moderate  distance  of  the  coast  of  China ;  but  about  2°  or 
3°  from  the  coast,  a  contrary  motion  often  takes  place. 
Here,  as  before,  typhoons  commence  from  the  northward, 
but  instead  of  veering  to  the  NB.  and  eastward,  as  in  the 
former  case,  the  wind  veers  to  NW.  and  W.,  blowing  very 
severely;  it  afterward  changes  to  SW.  and  S.,  where  it 
gradually  abates  in  violence."* 

The  diameter  of  the  typhoons  of  the  China  ^eas  varies  on°theeiradiame8 
from  GO  to  200  miles,  and  their  axial  rotation  is  the  same  as ler 
that  of  the  cyclones  ofjhe  northern  hemisphere,  viz : 
the  bands  of  a  watch,  or  Q.     Consequently  the  bearing  of 
the  storm  center  is  eight  points  to  the  right  of  the  wind, 
your  face  being  to  it.    Thus  when  the  wind  is  E.  the  center 
is  S. ;  and  when  the  wind  is  WNW.  the  center  is  NNE. 

But  the  onward  ino_vementTorj:rack  oftyphoonSjt.hfl  speed 
of  which  varies  from  7  to  24  miles  an  hour,  obeys  neither 
the  generaMaw  governing  cyclones  of  the  northern  hemi- 
sphere, nor  a_ny_lixed^  rule ;  and  this  uncertainty,  added  to 
the  innumerable  other  dangers  to  which  the  navigator  is 
liable  in  certain  parts  of  the  China  sea,  makes  these  typhoons 
especially  dangerous.  After  a  perusal  of  Piddington's  re- 
searches, it  must  be  admitted  that  the  track  of  the  typhoons 
lies  between  NNW.  and  SSW. ;  but  it  is  best  not  to  rely  too 
confidently  on  this,  as  typhoons  have  been  known  to  move 
toward  the  W.,  then  toward  the  K,  and  afterward  turn 
sharp  around  toward  the  E.,  in  the  direction  of  the  Bashee 
isles. 

This  being  allowed,  it  is  clear  that  no  fixed  rule  can  be 
given  to  avoid  typhoons ;  but  we  shall  confine  ourselves  to 
giving  general  advice  by  which  the  navigator  can  profit, 
modifying  it  more  or  less  according  to  circumstances. 

Therefore,  if  the  wind  is  from  NE.,  passing  to  ENE.  and 
E.,  vessels  are  almost  always  in  the  right  semicircle  of  the 
typhoon,!  and,  consequently,  if  they  lie-to  it  should  be  on  the 
starboard  tack. 

*  This  shifting  of  the  wind  simply  shows  the  two  different  semicircles 
of  the  same  typhoon.— Translator. 

\  The  right  or  left  semicircle  is  the  one  situated  to  the  right  or  left  of 
the  track  of  the  center,  (vide  $  26.) 


TYPHOONS— CHINA  SEAS. 

On  the  contrary,  if  the  winds  are  from  NW.,  passing  to 
WXW.  and  W.,  vessels  are  almost  always  in  the  left  semi- 
circle ;  and  if  they  lie-to  it  should  l)e  on  the  port  taclc. 
^should  ^or  examl^e?  ^n  the  first  case,  with  violent  winds  from 
tbeENE.  to  E.,  and  an  hourly  fall  of  Oin.G  in  the  barometer, 
there  would  be  danger  of  passing  in  or  near  the  typhoon's 
track.  That  is  to  say,  in  lying-to  (on  the  starboard  tack) 
there  would  be  many  chances  of  passing  through  the  cen- 
ter, and  being  exposed  to  the  greatest  danger.  Hence, 
wind  and  sea  permitting^  and  if  there  be  sea  room,  it  is  best 
to  run  to  the  K,  or,  if  possible,  to  NNE.,  even  if  bound  to 
the  southern  part  of  the  China  sea.  In  disregarding  this 
advice,  and  continuing  on  a  southerly  course,  vessels  would 
be  apt  to  fall  into  the  storm-center. 

In  the  second  case,  with  violent  winds  from  W.NW.  to 
W.,  for  example,  and  an  hourly  fall  of  Oin.6  in  the  barome- 
ter, there  would  also  be  much  danger  of  passing  in  or  near 
the  track.  And  a  vessel  lying-to  (on  the  port  tack)  would 
be  liable  to  be  overtaken  by  the  storm-center.  Whence  we 
conclude  that,  icind  and  sea  permitting,  and  with  no  land  or 
reefs  in  the  neighborhod,  it  is  best  to  run  to  the  SE.,  even 
if  the  ship  be  bound  to  the  northern  part  of  the  China  sea. 
If  in  spite  of  these  precautions  the  course  should  be  shaped 
to  the  northward,  the  central  and  dangerous  portion  of  the 
typhoon  will  be  encountered. 

Toward  the  beginning  of  a  typhoon  the  wind  nearly 
always  blows  from  some  point  between  ENE.  and  NE.,  or 
between  WNW.  and  NW. 

If,  during  any  mouths  between  May  and  December,  indi- 
cations of  an  approaching  typhoon  are  evident,  the  barom- 
eter and  the  direction  of  the  wind  should  be  attentively 
watched.  As  long  as  the  barometer  falls  it  sho\vs  that  the 
center  of  the  typhoon  is  approaching,  and  the  position  of 
the  vessel  becomes  more  and  more  critical  until  the  barom- 
eter again  rises. 

If  the  direction  of  the  wind  does  not  perceptibly  change, 
and  if  its  strength  increases  while  the  mercury  falls,  the  ves- 
sel is  in  the  track  of  the  cyclone.  In  this  case,  unless  ab- 
solutely prevented,  it  is  best  to  run  before  the  wind  at  first ; 
then  bring  it  on  the  starboard  quarter,  and  continue  on  the 
same  compass  course,  no  matter  how  the  wind  may  happen 
to  change.  When  the  wind  changes  it  will  be  in  a  direction 


TYPHOONS — CHINA   SEAS.  29 

contrary  to  that  of  the  hands  of  a  watch  ;  for  example,  from 
NE.  to  K,  or  from  K".  to  oSTW.  The  vessel  will  then  be  en- 
tering the  left  semicircle,  or  comparatively  moderate  part 
of  the  typhoon.  If  the  vessel  continue  on  this  same  course 
until  the  barometer  rise,  she  will  be  gradually  drawing  away 
from  the  path  of  the  storm.  She  will  then  shape  her  course 
with  the  wind  on  the  starboard  beam. 

If  the  direction  of  the  wind  changes  icith  the  hands  of  a 
icatch,  it  is  safe  to  conclude  that  the  vessel  is  in  the  right  or 
dangerous  semicircle.  If  forced  to  bring  to  it  should  be  on 
the  starboard  tack.  If  the  course  can  be  shaped  with  the 
wind  abeam,  or  close  hauled  on  the  starboard  tack,  there 
are  more  chances  of  avoiding  the  center.  As  soon  as  the 
barometer  rises  the  vessel  can  run  off  with  the  wind  a  little 
free  on  the  starboard  tack.  If  the  wind  change  in  a  direction 
contrary  to  that  of  the  hands  of  a  icatch,  the  vessel  is  in  the  left 
or  less  dangerous  semicircle.  If  it  be  decided  to  lie  to,  it 
should  be  on  the  port  tack.  But  if  land  or  reefs  are  not  in 
the  way  it  is  certainly  preferable  to  run  off  with  the  wind 
two  or  three  points  on  the  starboard  quarter.  After  a  little 
time  the  wind  will  change  and  moderate,  but  still  continue 
as  nearly  as  possible  on  the  same  course,  bracing  up  suffi- 
ciently, until  the  barometer  commences  to  rise.  Then,  by 
letting  the  vessel  fall  off,  bringing  the  wind  on  the  star- 
board quarter,  you  will  be  at  a  safe  distance. 

The  above  precautionary  measures  are  the  best  which 
can  be  given.  Ko  more  remains  to  be  said,  except  that  a 
typhoon  is  always  to  be  feared,  and  that  hardly  any  precau- 
tion can  be  considered  as  absolutely  efficacious  for  avoiding 
their  effects,  (vide  §  157.) 

Ships  overtaken  by  a  typhoon  near  the  E.  coast  of  China  Harbors  of  ref- 
€an  find  shelter  in  the  following  ports :  The  island  of  Tarn-  "8 
ta ;  Mirsbay  ;  the  isle  of  Ty-sami,  (9  miles  on  a  course  E. 
8°  1ST.  from  Hong-hai  island,)  if  the  vessel  does  not  draw 
more  than  13  feet;  the  island  of  Namoa,  abreast  of  Stew- 
art's house  ;  port  Tung-shan ;  port  Amoy ;  Quemoy  island ; 
port  Makung,  (in  the  SW.  part  of  Ponghou,  the  largest 
of  the  Pescadores;)  port  Chinchew;  Hungwa  channel; 
strait  of  Haetan,  (southern  entrance ;)  port  Pih-quan ; 
port  Bullock ;  port  Kelung,  (at  the  K.  extremity  of  For- 
mosa;) the  inner  and  outer  harbors  of  Ting-hae,  (S.  coast  of 
Chusau  ;)  port  Chinkeamun,  (SE.  extremity  of  Chusan  ;) 


30  PREVAILING  WINDS— COAST  OF  CHILI. 

port  Chin-keaug,  (W.  coast  of  Chnsan ;)  Chaug-pili,  or 
Fisher  island,  (off  N.  coast  of  Chnsan ;)  port  Ta-outse,  (NW. 
of  Kintang.) 

§  21.  PREVAILING  WINDS  ON  THE  COAST  OF  CHILI. — 
From  the  island  of  Chiloe,  where  it  rains  nearly  all  the  year 
round,  to  35°  S.,  the  winds  are  very  variable  in  strength, 
but  prevail  from  the  westward.  During  the  months  of 
December,  January,  February,  and  March  they  blow  fre- 
quently from  SSW.  to  WSW. 

The  winds  prevail  from  SE.  to  SW.,  between  35°  and  25° 
S.,  during  the  dry  season,  which  lasts  from  the  middle  of 
September  to  the  end  of  May.  During  this  period  of  nearly 
nine  mouths  the  wind  between  35°  and  30°  S.,  generally 
blows  from  some  point  between  S.  and  SW.  Near  the  par- 
allel 30°  S.  this  general  direction  of  the  wind  changes  to  S. 
or  SB.,  but  it  is  generally  fixed  between  30°  and  25°  S.,  at 
some  point  to  the  eastward  of  S.  The  weather,  from  Sep- 
tember to  May,  is  generally  clear  and  little  rain  falls  ;  some- 
times, however,  it  rains  south  of  31°  S.  for  two  or  three  suc- 
cessive days,  with  strong  northerly  winds. 

southerly  wS?  Along  tlie  coast>  between  33°  and  23°  S.,  the  dominant 
southerly  winds  are  often  so  strong  that  vessels  close-hauled 
are  obliged  to  take  two  reefs  in  their  topsails.  When  the 
wind  sets  in  strong  from  this  direction  vessels  are  often  pre- 
vented from  gaining  an  anchorage — Valparaiso,  for  iu- 
.  stance — notwithstanding  the  fact  that  they  may  have  sent 
down  top-gallant  masts,  and  close-reefed  the  topsails. 

During  the  three  months  of  the  rainy  season,  from  the  end  of 
May  to  September,  calms,  variable  breezes,  and  bad  weather, 
are  to  be  expected,  as  well  as  squalls  from  the  northward, 
with  rain  and  a  heavy  sea,  on  the  coast,  and  far  out  at  sea. 

In  June  the  winds  blow  as  often  from  N.  as  from  S.,  be- 
tween 35°  and  30°  S.  j  between  30°  and  25°  S.  they  prevail 
from  S.  and  SE.  In  July  there  are  variable  winds  between 
35°  and  25°  S.;  they  are  nearly  as  frequent  from  the  N.  as 
S.,  though  the  majority,  perhaps,  come  from  SW.  In  Au- 
gust, from  33°  to  30°  S.,  the  winds  are  variable,  but  prevail 
from  S.  and  SE. ;  between  30°  and  25°  S.  the  general  direc- 
tion of  the  wind  is  from  SE.  and  S  W. 

The  northerly  The  northerly  winds  of  the  rainy  season  rarely  amount  to 
a  squall.  Years  will  occasionally  elapse  without  a  norther, 
while  two  or  three  will  occur  in  a  bad  season.  At  Valpa- 


PREVAILING  WINDS— COAST  OF  PERU.  31 

raiso,  from  May  to  September,  (especially  in  July  and  Au- 
gust,) it  is  well  to  look  out  for  northers. 

Overcast  weather,  a  swell  from  the  north,  and  a  falling 
barometer  are  certain  indications  of  the  approach  of  these 
storms,  during  which  a  large  number  of  vessels  have  been 
driven  ashore.  During  the  good  season  the  southerly  winds 
in  this  roadstead  are  fresh  enough  to  make  vessels  drag 
their  anchors.  Northers  are  felt  all  along  the  coast,  includ- 
ing the  harbor  of  Copiapo,  when  at  certain  periods  of  the 
bad  season  they  are  sometimes  tolerably  strong  from  NW. 

§  22.  PREVAILING  WINDS  ON  THE  COAST  OF  PERU.— 
From  25°  S.  to  cape  Blanco  and  Guayaquil  the  wind  blows 
all  the  year  round  from  SE.,  varying  from  SSW.  to  ESE. 
The  SE.  wind  becomes  gradually  steadier  as  the  coast  is 
left.  Within  100  miles  of  the  shore  the  winds  partake  more 
of  the  character  of  land  and  sea  breezes. 

The  wind  rarely  blows  at  sea  from  SSE.  and  SE.  with 
sufficient  strength  to  make  vessels  by  the  wind  take  a  second 
reef  in  their  topsails. 

To  the  southward  of  the  parallel  of  16°  S.,  and  near  cape 
Blanco,  or  Nazca  point,  it  reaches  its  greatest  strength. 

The  weather  often  looks  bad,  but  the  squalls  which  fol- 
low are  almost  always  to  be  weathered  with  single-reefed 
topsails  and  courses.  At  all  seasons  the  winds  vary  in  force 
and  direction  within  300  or  400  miles  of  the  coast ;  beyond 
this  limit  the  trades  are  well  established.  But,  from  April 
to  August  in  the  zone  comprised  between  100  and  400  miles 
off  the  coast,  the  winds  are  particularly  subject  to  changes. 
At  this  time,  and  particularly  in  July,  between  20°  and  25° 
S,,  N.  and  NW.  winds  and  calms  are  frequent. 

The  winds  close  to  the  coast  are  more  variable  ;  they  are  winds  along 
particularly  so  from  Cobija  to  Callao  ;  north  of  Callao  they tb 
are  steadier.  A  land-breeze,  varying  from  SE.  to  ESE., 
begins  ordinarily  an  hour  or  two  after  sunset  and  lasts  till 
morning  j  during  the  night  it  is  dewy,  cool,  and  damp,  but 
the  breeze  is  never  strong.  A  sea-breeze,  varying  from  SE. 
to  SSW.,  sets  in  between  10  and  11  a.  m.,  and  dies  away 
during  the  afternoon ;  it  sometimes  blows  quite  stiffly ;  it  is 
then  best  to  be  careful  in  entering  the  harbors,  on  account 
of  the  sudden  violent  squalls  which  sweep  down  from  the 
high  lands. 


32  PREVAILING  WINDS— COAST   OF   COLOMBIA. 

Occasionally  dead  calms,  lasting  for  several  hours,  occur 
between  the  land  and  sea  breezes.  In  April  and  August, 
light  puffs  of  wind  from  K  and  NW.  sometimes  happen ; 
these,  however,  never  last  more  than  5  or  6  hours. 

The  belt  of  winds  we  have  just  described  varies  in  width, 
being  from  100  to  120  miles  broad  on  the  parallel  of  Arica, 
and  from  30  to  35  miles  off  Callao. 

The  coast  of  Peru  is  not  subject  to  storms  or  tempests ; 
thunder  and  lightning  are  unknown  there ;  gentle  rains  are 
common  from  July  to  August;  near  the  coast  calms  are 
frequent  in  the  interval  between  the  land  and  sea  breezes. 
The  percentage  of  chances  of  calms  is  shown  in  the  tables, 
§1. 

From  December  to  May,  fogs  are  very  thick  and  frequent, 
particularly  on  the  southern  part  of  the  coast.  They  last 
sometimes  from  24  to  36  hours. 

§  23.  PREVAILING  WINDS  ON  THE  COAST  OF  COLOMBIA 
AND  IN  THE  BAY  OF  PANAMA.— Between  cape  Blanco  and 
cape  San  Francisco,  situated  about  1°  N.,  SE.  and  S.  winds 
prevail  all  the  year  round.  They  frequently  shift  from  S. 
to  SW.,  particularly  during  the  months  of  February,  March, 
July,  August,  October,  and  November. 
Between  cape  Between  cape  San  Francisco  and  point  Guascama,  situated. 

S  d>  n      Francisco 

and  point  Guas-24  miles  to  the  southward  of  the  island  of  Gorgona,  the 
winds,  though  quite  variable,  generally  blow  from  SW.  and 
W.  In  January,  February,  and  March  alone  northerly 
winds  become  rather 'frequent.  Generally  the  SE.  winds 
haul  to  the  S.  and  SW.  on  going  up  the  coast  from  cape 
Blanco  and  the  bay  of  Guayaquil ;  and  on  passing  cape 
San  Francisco  they  shift  still  farther  to  the  westward. 
This  belt  of  winds  extends  seaward  for  100  or  200  miles. 
Farther  from  land  they  gradually  shift  to  S.  and  SE. 
Between  point  Beticeen  point  Guascama  and  cape  Corrientes  the  breezes 
s! are  very  baffling;  sometimes  they  come  from  SW. ;  in  Jan- 
uary, February,  and  March'  they  are  often  from  N.  to  NE. 
Calms  are  frequent,  and  rains  persistent  during  the  greater 
part  of  the  year,  especially  during  June,  July,  and  August, 
when  it  rains  in  torrents.  During  these  mouths,  and  even 
until  November,  violent  squalls  occur. 
anpl  Between  c'ape  Corrieutes  and  Panama  the  prevalent 

Panama.  winds  are  from  NW.,  with  squalls.     Southwesterly  winds 


PREVAILING   WINDS— GULF  OF   PANAMA.  33 

and  damp  weather  care  frequent  between  June  and  Decem- 
ber. 

In  the  gull  of  Panama  the  fine  or  dry  season  does  not  Gulf  of  Panama, 
actually  commence  until  December,  and  lasts  till  April. 
During  this  period  the  winds  are  regular  and  prevail  from 
ENE. ;  near  the  coast,  however,  land  and  sea  breezes  exist. 
The  land-breeze  varies  from  N.  to  NNE.,  the  sea-breeze 
coming  from  SSW.  At  this  season  the  winds  in  the  south- 
ern part  of  the  gulf  are  often  very  fresh ;  and,  abreast  of 
the  coast  of  Veragua,  vessels  are  frequently  obliged  to  take 
two  reefs  in  their  topsails.  In  April  and  May  the  weather 
is  variable  and  squally;  the  NE.  winds  begin  to  be  inter- 
rupted by  calms  and  southerly  or  southwesterly  breezes, 
which  bring  rain.  The  rainy  season  commences  in  June, 
with  strong  settled  winds  from  S.  to  SSW.,  interrupted  at 
times  with  those  from  NW.  There  is  often  much  rain  in 
June,  July,  and  August,  and  sometimes  in  September.  The 
mouth  of  October  is  damp,  but  in  November  the  weather 
begins  to  improve,  the  wind  setting  in  again  from  E.  to  N. 

We  shall  complete  these  instructions  on  the  system  of 
winds  in  the  bay  of  Panama  by  quoting  verbatim  Maury's 
observations,  (edition,  1859:) 

"  In  the  discussion  of  the  winds  as  it  is  conducted  for  the 
pilot-charts,  Panama  and  its  approaches  are  included  be- 
tween the  parallels  of  5°  and  10°  N.  Between  these  paral- 
lels, and  east  of  85°  W.,  it  appears,  from  the  observations 
which  have  been  discussed,  that  the  prevailing  winds  in 
November,  December,  January,  May,  June,  and  July,  are 
between  NW.  and  SW.  inclusive;  that  in  December,  Janu- 
ary, February,  and  March  they  prevail  about  one-fifth  of 
the  time  from  the  northward  and  eastward ;  that  calms  are 
least  prevalent  in  the  month  of  March,  the  prevailing  wind 
for  March  being  N  W.,  and  for  June  S  W.,  though  N  W.  winds 
are  also  frequent  in  June,  and  that  for  the  other  months  the 
observations  are  too  few  to  give  any  indication  as  to  the 
prevailing  winds. 

"Between  the  same  two  parallels,  but  to  the  west  of  85°, 
and  as  far  as  95°,  the  prevailing  winds  are  in  December, 
January,  and  February  NE. ;  in  March  and  April  they  are 
variable,  prevailing  alternately  from  NE.  and  NW.  From 
May  to  September  they  prevail  from  S.  to  SW.,  inclusive; 
in  October  from  SE.  to  SW.,  inclusive.  In  November  they 
SN 


34  PREVAILING-  WINDS — BAY   OF  PANAMA. 

are  inclined  to  be  variable,  though  from  SE.  by  the  way  of 
S.  to  WSW.  is  the  favorite  quarter. 

"It  is,  moreover,  indicated  that  to  the  east  of  80°  the 
winds  in  December,  January,  and  February,  prevailing  as 
they  do  from  the  northward  and  westward,  are  generally 
favorable  for  getting  to  the  southward  and  westward,  by 
steering  SSW.  or  SW. ;  that  in  May  calms  are  frequent, 
and  the  prevailing  points  of  the  wind  are  decidedly  WSW., 
SW.,  and  SE.;  and  in  June  W.,  WSW.,  SW.,  and  NW.; 
but  as  the  favorite  point  is  W.,  and  calms  are  not  so  fre- 
quent as  in  May,  June  appears  to  be  a  more  propitious 
month  than  May  for  crossing  the  parallel  of  5°  N.  by  a 
southwardly  course  from  Panama.  Between  5°  and  10°  N". 
for  the  other  months,  I  have  not  observations  enough  to 
the  east  of  80°  to  justify  me  in  any  remarks  as  to  the  winds. 

''Neither  have  I  observations  enough  for  January,  Feb- 
ruary, or  March  to  the  east  of  80°,  and  between  0°  and  5° 
K,  to  authorize  deductions;  but  for  all  the  other  months 
of  the  year  they  are  abundant.  They  show  that,  to  the 
east  of  80°,  between  the  equator  and  5°  N.,  the  winds  are 
steady  between  SE.  by  the  south  to  west,  and  that  calms 
are  most  frequent  in  this  part  of  the  ocean  during  the 
months  of  December  and  April/  The  points  from  which 
the  winds  most  prevail  are,  in  December,  SW. ;  in  April, 
SSW.  and  SW. ;  in  May,  June,  and  July,  SW. ;  in  August, 
SSW.  and  SW.;  in  September,  SW.;  in  October  and  No- 
vember, from  SE.  to  W^SW. 

"Between  80°  and  85°  W.,  from  the  equator  to  5°  N., 
the  prevailing  direction  of  the  wind  all  the  year  is  between 
SE.  and  W.  by  the  way  of  S. ;  though  from  March  to 
August,  inclusive,  it  is  most  inclined  to  be  variable.  In 
December,  March,  and  April,  calms  are  most  frequent. 

"Between  85°  and  90°,  the  prevailing  quarter  for  the 
wind  all  the  year  from  the  equator  to  5°  K,  is  between  SE. 
and  SW.  It  is  most  variable  from  January  to  June,  inclu- 
sive. In  March  and  June  the  NE.  trades  are  frequently 
found  here;  calms  are  most  prevalent  in  March. 

"  Continuing  west  between  the  same  parallels,  the  region 
from  90°  to  95°  W.  seems  to  be  of  all  the  most  liable  to 
calms  the  year  round.  From  October  to  January,  inclusive, 
they  are  not  so  frequent  as  in  the  other  months,  being  less 
frequent  in  October.  From  SE.  to  SSW.  is  the  ruling 


PREVAILING  WINDS— COAST   OF   GUATEMALA.  35 

quadrant  for  the  winds  here  all  the  year ;  though  from  Jan- 
uary to  June,  inclusive,  they  go  from  NE.  around  by  the 
way  of  E.  to  W. 

"To  the  west  of  95°  they  are  steady  between  SE.  and  S., 
except  from  January  to  May,  inclusive.  In  January,  Feb- 
ruary, arid  March,  they  often  get  as  far  north  as  NE.,  and 
in  April  and  May  as  far  as  ENE." 

§  24.  PREVAILING  WINDS  ON  THE  COASTS  OF  GUATEMALA, 
MEXICO,  AND  CALIFORNIA. — From  the  gulf  of  Panama  to 
cape  Blanco  (gulf  of  Nicoya,  about  10°  N.)  the  winds  are 
variable,  but  prevailing  between  SW.  and  NE.,  passing 
around  by  the  way  of  S.  and  E.  in  January,  February,  and 
March.  The  two  principal  directions  are  S.  and  SE.  The 
winds  are,  as  a  rule,  steady  the  rest  of  the  year  ;  they  pre- 
vail from  SW.  to  SE.,  particularly  from  the  southward. 

From  cape  Blanco  to  cape  Corrientes  (about  20°  30'  ^.)Bianc™  to° 
the  prevailing  winds  in  January,  February,  and  March  are, Corriente3- 
first,  those  from  NE.,  varying  from  N.  to  NW.,  between 
cape  Blanco  and  Acapulco;  second,  those  from  NW.,  vary- 
ing to  N.  and  NE.,  between  Acapulco  and  cape  Corrieutes. 
The  first  three  months  of  the  year  correspond  to  the  dry 
season ;  at  this  time  the  winds  often  blow  violently  from 
NNE.  to  NE.  In  April,  May,  and  June,  calms  are  continu- 
ous, and  the  breezes  light  and  variable.  From  cape  Blanco 
to  Acapulco  the  wind  prevails  from  S.  and  E.,  and  from  Aca- 
pulco to  cape  Corrientes  from  NE.  to  N.  and  NW.  July, 
August,  and  September  are  the  bad  season,  which  actually 
lasts  from  May  to  October.  SE.  and  E.  winds  prevail  as 
far  as  15°  N.  Near  Acapulco,  and  continuing  as  far  as 
cape  Corrientes,  variable  winds  blow,  principally  from 
NW.,  but  also  often  from  SW.,  S..  and  particularly  from 
SE.,  ESE.,  and  E.  At  this  season  the  winds  from  SSW.  to 
SSE.  bring  heavy  rains  and  tornadoes,  followed  by  calms 
all  along  the  coast.  (Vide  §  1.)  Frequently  the  SW.  winds- 
are  violent :  sometimes  the  heavy  squalls  from  this  direc- 
tion at  Acapulco,  San  Bias,  etc.,  render  it  dangerous  for 
vessels  to  come  to  anchor  or  remain  any  length  of  time 
until  December. 

In  October,  November,  and  December  prevailing  winds, 
are  found  from  NE.,  N.,  and  NW.  to  the  northward  of  capo 
Blanco;  these  often  haul  to  the  westward  between  the  gulf 
of  Tehuantepec  and  Acapulco ;  afterward,  between  Aca- 


36  PREVAILING  WINDS— CALIFORNIA. 

pulco  and  cape  Corrientes  the  prevalent  winds  are  found  to 
be  from  NE.,  N.,  and  especially  NW.  The  fine  season  can 
be  considered  as  commencing  in  December. 

Co^Stes  Cafl  Between  cape  Corrieutes  and  cape  Mendocino  (about  40° 
cape  Mendocino.  30'  N.)  moderate  weather  may  be  counted  upon.  The  winds 
generally  prevail  from  NW.  The  southwesterly  winds  bring 
rain,  especially  in  November.  In  January,  February,  and 
March  the  prevalent  winds  are  from  N.  to  NW.  and  W., 
with  a  few  southerly  breezes  between  capes  Corrientes  and 
San  Lucas.  From  cape  San  Lucas  to  about  30°  N.  they  vary 
from  NE.  to  N.  and  from  NW.  to  SW.,  the  greater  part 
coming  from  NW.  and  N.  Farther  to  the  northward,  from 
the  parallel  of  30°  to  cape  Mendocino,  variable  breezes  from 
all  points  of  the  compass  may  be  encountered,  especially 
from  NW.,  N.,  and  NE.  Between  Corrientes  and  San 
Lucas  the  winds  in  April,  May,  and  Jane  are  from  NW.. 
varying  to  W.  and  SW.;  from  San  Lucas  to  30°  N.  from 
NW.  varying  to  NNW.  and  N.,  while  from  30°  N.  to  cape 
Mendocino  they  still  blow  from  NW.,  though  varying  to  IN". 
and  NNE.  In  July,  August,  and  September  the  winds  be- 
tween Corrientes  and  San  Lucas  are  from  NW.,  shifting 
very  often  to  W.  and  SW.;  from  San  Lucas  to  30°  1ST.  they 
also  prevail  from  NW.,  varying  to  N.  and  NE.  Finally, 
from  30°  N.  to  Mendocino,  they  come  from  NNW.,  fre- 
quently passing  to  ST.  and  NNE.  In  October,  November, 
and  December  the  prevalent  winds  are  from  NW.,  varying 
to  NNW.  and  N.  between  Corrientes  and  San  Lucas,  and 
also  extending  to  30°  N. 

Beyond  this  parallel  they  are  dominant  from  NNW.,  N., 
and  NE.;  but  during  this  season  they  often  blow  from  some 
point  between  WNW.  and  SS W..  in  which  case  they  are  ac- 
companied by  rain.  During  the  whole  year  thick  fogs  are 
frequent,  to  the  northward  of  30°  N.,  extending  to  the  45th 
parallel.  They  constitute  the  principal  danger  to  naviga- 
tion, and  to  making  a  land-fall  on  the  coast  of  California. 
North  of  cape  North  of  cape  Mendocino  the  winds  are  variable  and  pre- 
sent a  certain  analogy  to  those  which  prevail  off  the  coasts 
of  England  and  Ireland.  They  are,  however,  prevalent 
from  NNW.  from  cape  Mendocino  to  about  50°  N.,  except 
in  December,  January,  February,  and  March,  when  they 
blow  oftenest  from  SE.  to  SW.  During  this  winter  season 
the  weather  is  bad,  with  rain  and  strong  winds  which  are 


BAROMETER.  37 

especially  to  be  feared  when  they  back  from  WSW.  toward 
the  SW.,  S.,  and  SE.  Winds  from  WNW.  and  N.  are  dry; 
those  from  SW.  and  SE.,  foggy  and  damp.  The  strongest 
squalls  seem  to  come  from  between  SW.  and  SE.  During 
all  the  year  fogs  are  to  be  expected  as  far  to  the  northward 
as  45°  N.$  they  are  less  frequent  in  winter  than  during  the 
rest  of  the  year. 

§  25.  USE  OF  THE  BAROMETER. — In  the  Instructions  for 
the  Atlantic  Ocean  it  has  been  stated  that  it  is  indispensable 
to  know,  in  order  to  make  use  of  the  barometer,  the  mean 
barometrical  height,  or  mean  level  of  the  mercury  at  the 
position  of  the  observer.  The  data  collected  for  the  Pacific 
are  not  sufficient  to  give  a  table  of  barometrical  heights 
which  would  be  as  reliable  as  that  given  for  the  Atlantic. 
But  this  want  of  definite  and  absolute  information  does  not 
prevent  us  from  taking  advantage  of  barometrical  observa- 
tions in  practical  navigation. 

Thus  the  mean  barometric  height  in  the  part  of  the 
Pacific  where  the  trades  continually  blow,  varies  ordinarily 
from  29in.S4  to  29iu.9G.  But  it  is  worthy  of  remark  that, 
especially  in  the  western  part  of  the  inter-tropical  region, 
the  barometer  rarely  remains  steady  within  the  above 
limits. 

Experience  shows  that  decided  falls  precede  or  accom- 
pany the  westerly  winds,  which  sometimes  take  the  place 
of  the  trades,  during  the  summer  months  of  each  hemi- 
sphere. (Vide  §  4.)  Barometric  heights  are  often  observed 
between  29iu.29  and  30in.08  in  both  the  NE.  and  SE.  trade 
regions;  but  bad  weather  is  only  to  be  feared  when  the  fall 
is  rapid. 

At  30°  N.  the  mean  level  appears  to  be  about  29in.81 ;  at 
35°  N.  we  find  it  29in.69;  at  40°  N.  only  29iu.57;  and  from 
40°  to  45°  N.  it  is  very  variable,  ranging  from  29iu.45  to 
30in.32. 

In  the  southern  hemisphere  we  obtain  30in.OO  at  30°  S. ; 
29in.88  at  35o  S.;  29in.73  at  40°  S.;  29in.65  at  45°  S. ;  29in.57 
at  50°  S. ;  29in.53  at  55°  S. ;  and  29in.45  at  57°  S. 

As  stated  in  the  Instructions  for  the  Atlantic  the  mean 
barometric  height  at  cape  Horn  is  29in.25. 

Wejirill  now  give  the  principal  rules  for  obtaining  the 
requisite  information  in  regard  to  the  working  of  the 
barometer  in  the  Pacific. 


BAROMETER. 

We  will  not  treat  of  the  fall  in  the  barometer  which  an- 
nounces the  approach  of  the  cyclones  and  typhoons  of  the 
western  portion  of  the  inter-tropical  zone  and  the  China 
sea,  as  ideas  on  that  subject  will  be  given  in  a  subsequent 
paragraph. 

We  will  also  omit  the  instructions  on  the  use  of  the 
barometer  near  cape  Horn,  as  they  were  given  in  the 
Instructions  for  the  Atlantic. 

In  the  region  of  geueral  westerly  wiuds  the  barometer 
ordinarily  announces  several  hours  in  advance  any  im- 
portant changes  in  the  force  or  direction  of  the  wind,  (vide 
§  5.)  Gales  may  nearly  always  be  foretold  twelve  hours  in 
advance. 

In  the  northern  hemisphere,  when  the  wind  is  about  to 
shift  from  E.  to  SE.  and  S.,  the  barometer  falls ;  if  the  wind 
passes  the  SW.  point  and  comes  out  from  W.,  NW.,  and  N"., 
the  barometer  rises.  When  the  wind  gets  to  NE.  the  glass 
ceases  to  rise,  and  begins  to  fall  again  with  wind  from  E. 

In  the  southern  hemisphere  the  glass  is  affected  in  a 
similar  manner  when  the  wind  is  about  to  shift  from  E.  to 
!NE.  and  N.,  etc.,  or,  in  general  terms : 

The  barometer  is  high,  or  rises,  when  the  wind  is  from 
the  adjacent  pole ;  and  low,  or  falls,  when  it  blows  from  the 
opposite  pole.  When  the  barometric  level  remains  station- 
ary for  five  or  six  hours,  changes  in  either  the  force  or  direc- 
tion of  the  wind  need  not  be  apprehended. 

If  the  barometric  level  oscillates,  or,  in  other  words,  falls 
and  rises  alternately  from  .02  to  .06  of  an  inch  for  the 
space  of  half  a  day,  the  weather  will  be  uncertain. 

If  it  rises  gradually  from  .04  to  .08  of  an  inch  in  five 
hours,  less  wind  may  be  expected  or  colder  and  drier 
weather. 

If  it  falls  gradually  from  .04  to  .08  of  an  inch  in  five 
hours,  more  wind  or  warmer  and  damper  weather  may  be 
looked  for. 

As  a  general  thing,  if  the  barometric  height  remains  sta- 
tionary at  .16  to  .20  or  even  .39  to  .47  of  an  inch  above  or 
below  the  mean  level,  the  weather  will  be  steady  and 
moderate ;  from  the  northward  in  the  first  case  and  from 
the  southward  in  the  second. 

The  barometer  rarely  attains  the  height  of  .59  to  .78  of 


BAROMETER.  39 

an  inch  or  more,  above  or  below  the  mean  level,  unless 
during  or  just  before  very  bad  and  windy  weather. 

Nevertheless,  the  principle  that  extremes  in  the  barometer 
denote  wind  is  generally  taken  too  literally. 

The  following  rule  is  more  certain  : 

It  will  blow  a  gale  ivhenever  the  barometer  rises  or  falls 
very  suddenly  ;  especially  when  the  level  reached  is  distant 
from  the  mean  level. 

It  is  best,  then,  in  observing  the  barometer,  to  note  Dot 
only  if  it  is  above  or  below  the  mean  level,  but  particularly 
to  observe  the  number  of  inches  it  has  risen  or  fallen  since 
evening,  since  morning,  or  during  the  three  or  four  hours 
previous.  Thus  a  moderate  movement — say  of  .04  to  .08  of 
an  inch  in  four  hours — indicates  moderate  winds  ;  while  a 
sudden  rise  or  fall — say  of  .16  to  .20  of  an  inch  in  five  hours, 
or  .5  to  .8. of  an  inch  in  twenty-four  hours — foretells  a  gale. 

If  the  wind  is  from  the  direction  of  the  elevated  pole  and 
the  barometer  stands  very  high,  (at  .C  to  .8  of  an  inch,  or 
more  above  the  mean  level,)  a  sudden  fall,  accompanied  by 
a  rise  in  the  thermometer,  shows  that  the  wind  will  soon 
come  out  strong  from  the  direction  of  the  opposite  pole. 

If,  on  the  contrary,  the  wind  is  from  the  direction  of  the 
equator,  and  the  barometer  stands  very  low,  (at  .6  to  .8  of 
an  inch  below  the  mean  level,)  a  sudden  rise  foretells  a  shift 
of  wind  toward  the  adjacent  pole. 

Cold  weather  and  a  sudden  fall  in  the  barometer  below 
the  mean  level  indicates  snow. 

Finally,  according  as  the  rise  or  fall  of  the  barometer  is 
more  or  less  rapid  the  weather  predicted  is  more  or  less 
close  at  hand,  and  will  last  a  longer  or  shorter  time. 

OBSERVATIONS  OF  M.  LE  COMMANDANT  PROUHET.  On 
i;he  use  of  the  barometer  in  the  southern  hemisphere  (Ann. 
Hydr.,  vol.  31:) 

"  It  may  be  observed,  as  applicable  to  the  whole  zone, 
that  the  direction  of  the  wind  has  more  influence  on  the 
barometrical  height  than  even  the  state  of  the  weather. 
This  influence  is  much  stronger  in  the  variable  winds  of  the 
southern  hemisphere  than  in  those  of  the  northern.  It  may 
be  also  observed  that  all  meteorological  phenomena  are  char- 
acterized more  strongly  in  the  southern  hemisphere.  On 
the  parallels  of  42°  and  43°  the  barometer,  which  marked 
29in.88,  with  squalls  from  SE.,  stood  steady  at  29in.53,  with  a 


40  BAROMETER. 

gentle  breeze  from  NE.,  varying  to  N.;  and  at29ln.21,  with 
winds  from  W.  and  fine  weather.  Several  hundredths  of  an 
inch  fall  in  the  barometer,  when  the  wind  is  from  SE.,  may 
indicate  worse  weather  than  a  fall  of  twice  the  amount  when 
the  wind  is  from  NE.,  or  of  three  times  the  amount  when  it  is 
from  NW.  This  influence  that  the  direction  of  the  wind  has 
over  the  barometer  becomes  more  and  more  marked  as  the 
latitude  increases.  So  that  the  standard  established  for  our 
climates,  and  which  is  accurate  enough  as  far  south  as  41°  or 
45°  S..  becomes  altogether  inexact  in  higher  latitudes. 

a  It  would  appear  to  be  almost  necessary  in  these  lati- 
tudes to  graduate  a  scale  for  each  of  the  four  principal  di- 
rections of  the  wind,  viz.,  SE.,  NE.,  NW.,  and  SW.;  thus  a 
level  at  29in.90,  with  winds  from  SE.,  can  be  considered  as 
very  low,  and  in  no  sense  gives  the  idea  of  variable  weather, 
while  29in.10,  with  winds  from  NW.,  is  a  mean  level,  which 
answers  very  well  to  this  kind  of  weather. 

"  On  the  parallels  56°  and  57°  S.,  a  slow  and  uniform  fall 
to  28in.35,  with  winds  from  NW.  or  W.,  causes  less  anxiety 
than  a  level  of  29in.50  on  the  W.  coast  of  France.  If  sudden 
oscillations  occur,  however,  there  is  grave  cause  for  alarm. 
Everywhere,  I  think,  but  principally  in  these  latitudes, 
movements  of  this  nature  foretell  bad  weather,  which  is 
never  caused  by  a  slow  and  regular  change.  A  change  of 
.02  of  an  inch  per  hour,  might  here  take  place  without  excit- 
ing apprehension  ;  a  greater  rapidity  of  movement  is  inva- 
riably succeeded  by  squalls,  and  if  it  attains  a  rate  of  .04  of 
an  inch  per  hour,  gusts  of  great  violence  are  to  be  expected. 
There  is,  therefore,  considerable  difference  in  the  laws  of 
the  barometer  according  to  the  latitude ;  half  the  above  move- 
ment, in  the  neighborhood  of  40°,  indicated  the  approach  of 
furious  squalls, 

"  The  line  of  demarcation  which  it  is  the  practice  to  draw 
near  the  parallel  44°  or  45°  S.,  to  denote  the  limit  at  which 
our  barometers  cease  to  be  exact,  would  appear  to  be  arbi- 
trarily placed.  In  the  South  Atlantic,  where  the  first  ob- 
servations on  this  subject  were  undoubtedly  made,  it  ap- 
pears to  be  quite  accurate ;  but  in  the  middle  of  the  South 
Pacific,  the  change  in  the  laws  regulating  the  barometer  is 
not  appreciable  until  we  reach  48°  or  49°  S.  In  mid-ocean, 
half  way  between  the  cape  of  Good  Hope  and  the  southern 
point  of  New  Zealand,  it  is,  however,  very  distinctly  marked 


CYCLONES— PACIFIC  OCEAN.  41 

near  42°  S.  Now,  whether  this  line  of  demarcation  ought 
to  be  drawn  parallel  to  the  equator  or  not,  it  is  still  admis- 
sible to  divide  the  zone  into  two  parts,  near  the  latitudes 
mentioned  above,  and  this  division  will  allow  us  to  proceed 
in  the  following  manner  with  our  observations  on  the  law 
regulating  the  rise  and  fall  of  the  barometer. 

"  In  the  northern  part  of  the  zone  of  variable  winds  the 
barometrical  indications  are  to  be  interpreted  in  the  same 
manner  as  those  of  the  corresponding  zone  north  of  the 
equator ;  provided,  it  be  remembered  that  the  southerly 
winds  here  correspond  to  the  northerly  ones  of  our  climate. 
The  easterly  and  westerly  winds  have  the  same  respective 
influence  in  both  hemispheres;  the  points  of  comparison  in 
the  barometric  scale  also  remain  nearly  the  same;  but  the 
variation  of  the  wind  has  more  effect  upon  the  barometer 
in  the  southern  hemisphere. 

"  In  the  southern  part  of  the  zone  of  variable  winds  the 
laws  governing  the  movement  of  the  barometer  are  the  same 
as  in  the  case  last  mentioned,  depending  upon  the  direction 
of  the  wind;  a  rise  indicating  pleasant  weather  without  a 
change  of  wind,  or  that  the  wind  tends  toward  SE. ;  a  fall 
indicating  that  the  wind  tends  toward  NW.,  or,  if  it  does 
not  change,  that  the  weather  will  grow  worse ;  but  the  ex- 
tent of  rise  or  fall  is  not  at  all  the  same  as  it  is  in  the  other 
part  of  the  zone,  and  we  would  be  very  apt  to  be  misled  if 
we  relied  upon  a  knowledge  of  the  working  of  the  barome- 
ter obtained  in  other  localities/' 

§  26.  CYCLONES  OF  THE  PACIFIC  OCEAN.— Independ- 
ently of  the  typhoons  of  the  China  sea,  a  description  of 
which  is  given  §  20,  cyclones  are  encountered  in  many  other 
parts  of  the  Pacific.  We  give  below  localities  where 
cyclones  are  found,  the  laws  they  obey,  the  information  to 
be  deduced  from  watching  the  barometer,  and  the  precau- 
tions necessary  to  take  to  weather  these  storms  with  the 
least  possible  damage.  cC*#w>^ 

Cyclones  have  been  reported  in  the  Marianas  and  Caro-    Latitudes     in 

•which     cyclones 

line  islands,  and  from  these  groups  to  the  Sandwich  islands,  Larvveed  been  ob' 
and  the  west  coast  of  North  America.  They  seem  to  travel 
in  a  curve,  inclining  generally  to  the  northward ;  there  are, 
however,  but  few  examples.  Thus,  in  the  Eadack  islands, 
10°  K.  and  170°  E.,  SW.  storms  occur  in  September  and 
October.  Piddington  appears  to  lean  to  the  opinion  that 


42  CYCLONES— SOUTHERN  HEMISPHERE. 

these  have  the  characteristics  of  "cyclones.  A  hurricane 
(not  circular)  was  observed  13°  N.,  147°  40'  W.  A  squall, 
rotating  from  NNE.  to  E.  and  S.,  was  felt  in  September,  15° 
N.,  119°  40'  W. 

Another  genuine  cyclone  was  observed  in  the  beginning 
of  October  at  about  27°  N.  and  135°  W.  On  this  latter 
occasion,  the  wind  shifted  successively  from  ESE.  to  SB.,  S., 
SW.,  and  W.  The  track  of  the  cyclone  was  first  to  NW., 
afterwards  to  N.  and  NE.,  following  the  general  law  of  cir- 
cular storms. 

southern68  hneS     In  tue  southern  hemisphere  it  is  certain  that  cyclones 

sphere.  occur  from  Australia  to  the  Pauinotas,  and  even  farther  to 

the  eastward,  particularly  between  the  equator  and  25°  S. 

We  shall  briefly  quote  the  examples  mentioned  by  Pidding- 

ton. 

At  Viti-Levu  (Fiji  Islands)  a  cyclone  passing  to  the  south- 
ward was  observed  in  February.  At  Apia  (Samoa  islands) 
a  very  violent  cyclone  occurred  toward  the  end  of  Decem- 
ber, and  in  the  same  group  another  cyclone  was  observed 
traveling  to  the  southward  and  eastward.  Between  the 
Tonga  and  Samoa  groups  several  vessels  have  been  lost  at 
different  times,  during  these  cyclones.  At  the  Kingsmill 
islands,  on  the  equator,  there  are  sometimes  violent  tem- 
pests. At  Yavu,  (Tonga  group,)  in  December,  an  American 
whaler  was  thrown  ashore  by  a  hurricane,  but  was  floated 
off  during  a  shift  of  the  wind.  At  Earotouga  (Cook  group) 
a  circular  storm  has  been  observed  ;  also  one  in  December 
on  the  passage  between  Tahiti  and  Mangaia.  Cyclones  are 
unmistakably  felt  at  New  Caledonia  and  the  Loyalty  islands, 
and  between  the  latter  and  New  Hebrides.  Cyclones  are  to 
be  dreaded,  especially  from  the  1st  of  December  to  the  15th 
of  April,  in  the  neighborhood  of  New  Caledonia,  and  par- 
ticularly in  the  channel  between  the  mainland  and  the  Loy- 
alty islands. 

The  route  followed  by  the  circular  storms,  between  New 
Caledonia  and  Australia,  probably  corresponds  to  the  part 
of  their  curve,  which,  though  first  directed  toward  SW.,  is 
gradually  inflected  to  S.  and  SB.  Finally  in.  New  Zea- 
land, and  in  all  the  space  between  Van  Diemeirs  Land  and 
cape  Horn,  gales,  with  all  the  appearances  of  circular 
storms,  have  been  encountered.  In  conclusion,  we  repeat, 
that  in  the  southern  hemisphere,  especially  in  the  western 


CYCLONES.  43 

part  and  between  the  tropics,  it  is  advisable  to  look  out  for 
cyclones,  particularly  from  November  to  April. 

The  cyclones  of  the  Pacific  seem  to  obey  certain  general  cy^eo°eeraallaw80f 
laws,  well  known  to  sailors. 

In  the  northern  hemisphere,  the  rotation  of  the  wind  is 
against  the  hands  of  a  watch.  In  the  southern  hemisphere 
the  winds  rotate  in  a  direction  corresponding  to  that  of  the 
hands  of  a  watch. 

From  thess  facts  the  following  excellent  rule  has  been 
deduced : 

That  in  the  northern  hemisphere  the  center  of  the  cyclone 
bears  eight  points  to  the  right  of  the  icind,  your  face  being  to 
the  point  of  the  horizon  whence  the  wind  blows  ;  or  eight  points 
to  the  left  in  the  southern  hemisphere. 

The  onward  movement  of  a  cyclone  seems  to  be  in  a 
course  dependent  upon  the  bearing  of  the  neighboring  pole. 

In  the  northern  hemisphere,  for  instance,  the  cyclones 
seem  to  travel  toward  NW.  from  the  equator  to  the  outer 
limits  of  the  tropics,  then  toward  N.,  and  finally  toward  NE., 
beyond  the  parallel  30°  N. 

In  the  southern  hemisphere  they  seem  to  travel  first 
toward  SW.  from  the  equator  to  the  outer  limits  of  the 
tropics;  then  toward  S.,  and  finally  toward  SE.,  beyond  30°  S. 

But  it  would  be  wrong  to  trust  too  implicitly  to  this 
track,  which  is  theoretical  to  a  certain  extent;  under  many 
circumstances  these  revolving  storms  have  deviated  con- 
siderably from  these  directions. 

With  the  instructions  given  in  the  preceding  paragraph, 
no  danger  is  to  be  apprehended,  unless  in  the  event  of  being 
surprised  by  a  cyclone  in  the  neighborhood  of  reefs  or  land 
without  shelter. 

Supposing  the  line  followed  by  the  storm-center  to  be 
traced  upon  a  map,  it  invariably  divides  the  cyclone  into 
two  semicircles :  the  right,  or  that  to  the  right  hand  of  an 
observer  facing  with  the  storin ;  and  the  left,  or  that  to  the 
left  hand  of  an  observer  in  this  position. 

In  the  northern  hemisphere  the  right  semicircle  is  the 
dangerous,  and  the  left  semicircle  the  moderate  side. 

Inversely,  in  the  southern  hemisphere  the  right  semicir- 
cle is  the  moderate,  and  the  left  semicircle  the  dangerous 
side. 

One  example  is  sufficient  to  illustrate  these  observations, 


44  .  CYCLONES. 

Suppose  a  cyclone  in  the  northern  hemisphere,  traveling  to 
the  northward ;  suppose  at  the  same  time  two  vessels  .011 
the  northern  edge  of  the  storm.  One  of  these  vessels  being 
to  the  right  of  the  track,  experiences  winds  from  SE. ;  the 
sea  and  leeway  set  her  toward  the  center ;  she  is  therefore 
on  the  dangerous  side.  The  other  vessel  being  to  the  leffc  of 
the  track,  experiences  winds  from  XE.;  the  sea  and  leeway 
set  her  away  from  the  center  5  she  is  therefore  on  the  moder- 
ate side.  However,  the  conclusion  must  not  be  drawn  that 
these  terms,  dangerous  and  moderate,  imply  that  the 
weather  is  worse  on  the  one  side  than  on  the  other.  This  is 
not  proved  by  facts. 

The  truth  is  that  vessels  are  more  often  directly  in  front 
of  a  cyclone  when  they  are  overtaken  by  the  storm  ;  there- 
fore as  a  general  thing,  if  the  vessel  is  to  the  right  of  the 
track  in  the  northern  hemisphere,  or  to  the  left  in  the  south- 
ern hemisphere,  she  will  have  much  more  difficulty  in  es- 
caping than  if  she  were  in  the  other  semicircle.  Her  posi- 
tion is  therefore  more  critical,  whence  the  name  of  danger- 
ous given  to  the  side  in  question. 

Aboard  a  vessel  lying  to  or  close-hauled,  in  either  hemi- 
sphere, or  in  any  latitude,  when  the  shifts  of  wind  occur  to 
the  right  of  N.  you  are  in  the  right-hand  semicircle;  on  the 
contrary,  when  the  wind  shifts  to  the  left  of  north,  you  are  in 
the  left-hand  semicircle. 

Thus,  either  X.  or  S.  of  the  Line,  if  the  wind  changes  in 
the  direction  NE.  SW.,  (that  is  to  say  to  the  right  of  the  K,) 
you  are  on  the  right-hand  side  of  the  cyclone.  If,  on  the 
contrary,  the  wind  veers  in  a  contrary  direction,  NW.  SE., 
(that  is  to  say  to  the  left  of  .N".,)  the  vessel  is  certainly  in  the 
left  semicircle ;  and  we  again  repeat,  that  these  directions 
hold  true  in  either  hemisphere  and  in  all  latitudes. 

The  law  can  be  put  under  a  different  form,  thus: 

1°.  In  the  northern  hemisphere,  a  vessel  being  close-hauled 
or  lying  to,  if  the  wind  shifts  to  the  right  of  ET.,  or  with  the 
hands  of  a  watch,  she  is  in  the  right  or  dangerous  side. 
When  the  wind  shifts  inversely  the  vessel  is  in  the  left  or 
moderate  side. 

2°.  In  the  southern  hemisphere,  a  vessel  being  close-hauled 
or  lying  to,  if  the  wind  changes  to  the  left  of  N.,  or  in  the 
direction  contrary  to  that  of  the  hands  of  a  watch,  she  is 


13AROMETE11.  45 

in  the  left  or  dangerous  side.     When  the  wind  shifts  in- 
versely the  vessel  is  in  the  right  or  moderate  side. 

In  both  hemispheres  and  in  any  latitude,  when  a  vessel 
directly  in  the  path  of  a  cyclone  is  obliged  to  lie  to,  she  re- 
ceives the  wind  constantly  from  the  same  direction,  and  the 
barometer  falls,  with  a  speed  which  increases  in  proportion 
as  the  center  of  the  tempest  approaches.  The  moment  the 
vessel  is  reached  by  the  center,  the  wind  falls  for  a  short 
time,  sometimes  for  a  period  of  one  or  two  hours;  the 
barometer  then  reaches  its  lowest  level.  A  fall  of  liu.97  to 
2in.lG  has  been  often  observed,  also  one  extraordinary 
fall  of  2in.79  at  the  center  of  a  cyclone.  The  sea  is  then 
wild  and  furious,  and  the  short  breathing  space  allowed 
by  the  storm  is  none  the  less  mentioned  as  the  most 
frightful  position  by  those  who  have  been  fortunate 
enough  to  escape.  Suddenly  the  wind  comes  out  with 
equal  fury  from  the  opposite  quarter;  if  the  vessel  be  able 
to  bear  this  new  shock,  she  will  soon  be  out  of  harm's  reach, 
as  the  center  leaves  with  the  same  speed  as  it  came.  This 
speed,  which  is  that  of  the  movement  of  translation,  is  very 
variable ;  in  the  regions  between  the  tropics  it  is  generally 
about  six  miles  per  hour.  Some  of  the  cyclones  observed 
had  an  onward  movement  of  only  two  or  three  miles  per 
hour,  while  others  moved  at  the  rate  of  from  ten  to  twelve 
miles.  Beyond  the  tropics,  the  speed  is  greater,  and  often 
reaches  from  fifteen  to  twenty  or  twenty-five  miles  per  hour. 
As  a  rule,  vessels  finding  themselves  in  the  path  of  a  cyclone 
should  calculate  on  au  hourly  speed  of  from  ten  to  twelve 
miles. 

The  barometer  always  gives  sufficient  learning  of  the  ap-  T0^Q°f  tlie  ba' 
proach  of  a  cyclone,  and  of  the  distance  that  the  ship  is 
from  the  center  of  the  revolving  storm. 

In  cyclones  the  barometric  level  becomes  lower  as  you 
near  the  center.  Therefore  a  vessel  is  forewarned  of  the 
approach  of  the  center  if  the  barometer  falls,  and  of  its  de- 
parture if  the  barometer  rises. 

In  the  tropics,  where  the  accidental  variations  are  rela- 
tively small,  (vide  §  25,)  it  is  best  to  be  always  on  the  look- 
out when  the  barometer  is  from  .4  to  .6  of  an  inch  below 
the  mean  level,  especially  when  the  hourly  fall  is  great. 
Numerous  observations  seem  to  show  that,  with  the  barom- 
eter at  .8  of  an  inch  below  its  mean  level,  it  generally  blows 


46  BAKOMETEE. 

strong  enough  to  take  three  reefs  in  the  topsails.  When 
the  glass  stands  at  an  inch  or  more  below  the  mean  level, 
vessels  are  compelled  to  lie  to  or  run  before  the  wind. 

At  the  storm-center  the  barometer  often  sinks  to  liu.6  or 
2:u  and  even  to  2in.4  below  the  mean  level.  In  the  temper- 
ate zones  beyond  the  trades  the  fall  of  the  barometer  should 
be  greater  by  from  .2  to  .4  of  an  inch  on  the  approach  of  a 
cyclone.  The  conclusion  is  to  be  drawn  from  the  facts  col- 
lected by  Piddington,  that  every  observer  placed  in  the 
track  of  a  cyclone  will  notice  the  barometer  fall  from  .02  to 
.06  of  an  inch  per  hour,  when  the  distance  of  the  center 
is  from  150  to  250  miles.  When  the  hourly  fall  of  the 
barometer  is  from  .06  to  .08  of  an  inch,  the  center  is  distant 
150  or  100  miles:  when  the  hourly  fall  is  from  Oin.OS  to 
Oin.12,  the  center  is  from  100  to  80  miles  off;  finally,  with 
an  hourly  fall  of  from  Oin.12  to  Oin.15,  the  center  is  at  a  dis- 
tance of  not  more  than  80  or  50  miles. 

In  certain  cases  the  barometer  has  been  known  to  fall  .50 
and  even  .75  of  an  inch  in  an  hour. 

In  general,  when  the  barometer  does  not  fall  more  than 
.08  of  an  inch  per  hour,  a  vessel  placed  in  the  path  of  a 
cyclone  may  avoid  the  center  by  running  off  before  the 
wind.  But  it  becomes  nearly  impossible  to  escape  it  when 
the  hourly  fall  is  more  than  from  .08  of  an  inch  to  .1  of  an 
inch. 

After  the  center  has  passed,  the  barometer  rises  as  fast 
as  it  fell ;  that  is  to  say,  it  first  rises  very  rapidly,  then 
slower  and  slower,  as  the  center  recedes. 

On  board  a  vessel  lying  to,  in  either  the  dangerous  or 
moderate  side,  the  barometer  falls  quickly  as  the  storm-cen- 
ter approaches;  then  rises  as  the  center  departs.  These 
movements,  however,  are  not  so  sudden  as  in  the  preceding 
case,  because  the  center  of  the  cyclone  does  not  pass  over 
the  vessel  as  before,  but  at  a  greater  or  less  distance  from  it. 

When  a  vessel,  with  the  wind  on  the  quarter,  is  in  a  cyclone, 
the  barometer  varies  moderately.  If  it  rises,  the  ship  is 
leaving  the  center,  and  the  course  is  a  good  one ;  if  it  falls 
more  than  .08  of  an  inch  an  hour,  the  ship  is  approaching 
the  center,  and  will  be  unable  to  clear  or  outsail  it.  The 
course  is,  therefore,  a  bad  one.  Finally,  if  a  vessel  is  run- 
ning before  the  wind,  (which  ought  not  to  occur,  unless  she 
were  directly  in  the  path  of  the  cyclone,)  she  will  revolve 


BAROMETER.  47 

with  the  storm,  without  being  able  to  get  out.  lu  this  case 
the  distance  o^he  vessel  from  the  center  of  the  cyclone 
would  not  vary,  and  the  barometer  would  remain  nearly 
stationary.  Several  instances  of  this  nature  have  been 
known  to  occur  to  ships  which  persisted  in  running  before 
the  wind  in  a  cyclone. 

We  have  given  above  reliable  information  on  the  regular  iu 
changes  of  the  wind,  for  vessels  lying  to  in  cyclone.  All 
sailors  know  that  if  the  wind  hauls  ahead,  when  a  vessel  is 
lying  to,  there  is  danger  of  being  taken  aback,  and  even 
under  low  sail  of  making  stern-board,  in  which  case  there 
would  be  great  danger.  On  the  contrary,  if  the  wind  draw 
aft,  a  vessel  gathers  way,  and  afterward  In  fit's  to  her  course 
without  difficulty. 

In  order  to  be  sure  that  the  wind  will  draw  aft,  while 
lying  to  in  a  cyclone,  it  is  best  to  conform  to  the  following 
rule,  taken  from  Reid's  work  on  storms:  u  In,  both  hemi- 
spheres, lie  to  on  the  starboard  tack,  when  you  are  in  the  right 
semicircle  of  the  cyclone ;  or  on  the  port  tack  in  the  left  semi- 
circle." 

1°.  When  the  signs,  furnished  by  the  steadiness  of  the 
wind  and  the  fall  of  the  barometer,  show  that  you  are 
directly  in  the  track  of  the  storm-center,  run  oft'  at  once  before 
the  wind,  or  with  the  wind  a  little  on  the  quarter,  unless 
neighboring  land  or  reefs  absolutely  prevent. 

If  you  are  unable  to  run  off  before  the  wind,  the  only 
alternative  left  is  to  let  the  center  pass  over  you. 

As  soon  as  you  judge  that  you  have  escaped  the  track  of 
the  center,  continue  on  the  same  compass  course,  with  the 
wind  on  the  quarter,  no  matter  how  it  may  happen  to 
change.  In  tfce  northern  hemisphere  the  wind  should  be 
kept  on  the  starboard  quarter  ;  in  the  southern  on  the  port. 
In  both  cases  the  wind  will  gradually  haul  ahead,  but  con- 
tinue on  the  same  course,  if  possible,  until  the  barometer 
rises,  or  at  least  ceases  to  fall.  As  soon  as  the  barometer 
shows  any  signs  of  rising,  (or  before,  if  the  wind  and  sea 
permit,)  more  sail  may  be  set,  and  the  vessel  brought  grad- 
ually to  the  starboard  tack  in  the  northern  hemisphere,  and 
to  the  port  in  the  southern. 

2°.  Suppose  the  observer  to  be  in  the  N.  hemisphere,  and 
admitting  that  the  order  in  which  the  wind  shifts  proves  that 
the  ship  is  in  the  right  semicircle  of  the  cyclone,  or  danger- 


48  BAROMETER. 

ous  side.  Then,  if  you  are  forced  to  lie  to,  it  should  be  on 
the  starboard  tack.  But,  if  it  be  possible  t^shape  the  course 
with  the  wind  on  the  starboard  beam,  or  even  a  little  closer, 
the  chances  are  greater  that  you  will  avoid  the  track  of  the 
storm-center.  When  the  barometer  commences  to  rise,  you 
can  run  off  a  little,  with  the  same  tacks  aboard. 

3°.  Suppose  the  observer  to  be  in  the  K  hemisphere,  arid 
admitting  that  the  order  in  which  the  wind  shifts  proves 
that  the  ship  is  in  the  left  or  moderate  semicircle  of  the 
cyclone.  Then,  if  it  be  decided  to  lie  to,  it  should  be  on  the 
port  tack.  But,  if  land  or  reefs  are  not  in  the  way,  it  is  cer- 
tainly preferable  to  run  the  ship  off  at  once  with  the  wind 
two  or  three  points  on  the  starboard  quarter.  After  a  little 
the  wind  will  change  and  commence  to  haul  ahead,  but  still 
continue  on  the  same  course,  as  nearly  as  possible,  bracing  up 
as  the  wind  hauls,  until  the  barometer  begins  to  rise.  Then, 
if  the  wind  and  sea  permit,  make  sail,  and  run  off  again  with 
the  wind  free  on  the  starboard  tack.  If  the  observer  be  in 
the  southern  hemisphere,  substitute  starboard  for  port  and 
right  for  left  in  the  two  preceding  cases. 


CHAPTER    II. 

CURRENTS— ICEBERGS. 

§  27.  THE  EQUATORIAL  CURRENT. — According  to  the 
researches  of  Captain  Duperrey,  the  waters  of  the  Pacific 
ocean  show  in  the  tropical  regions  a  tendency  to  drift 
toward  the  west  with  a  variable  rate ;  the  mean  rate  of  this 
movement  being  about  24  miles  per  day.  This  vast  stream,  Sty0'.  If* 
about  three  thousand  miles  wide,  is  called  the  equatorial 
current.  It  appears  to  have  been  particularly  observed  be. 
tween  the  parallels  26°  S.  and  24°  N. 

A  counter-current  has  been  proved  to  exist,  setting  to 
the  eastward,  at  some  distance  north  of  the  line,  and  espe- 
cially in  the  western  part  of  the  Pacific.  This  counter-cur- 
rent, of  which  a  description  will  be  given,  §  28,  divides  the 
great  equajxmaijcurrent  into  two  branches,  which  set  to 
leeward  in  both  the  NE.  and  SE.  trade  regions,  and  which 
are  distinguished  by  the  names  of  the  northern  equatorial 
current,  and  the  southern  equatorial  current. 

The  northern  equatorial  current  begins  in  the  neighbor-    The  northern 

equatorial   cur- 

hood  of  126°  W.,  and  sets  toward  the  W.  and  WSW.  with***- 
a  mean  speed  of  about  1  knot  per  hour  ;  it  is  especially  ob- 
served between  10°  and  24°  N.,  to  the  eastward  of  the 
Sandwich  islands,  and  between  10°  and  19°  N.,  to  the  west- 
ward of  this  group.  South  of  10°  U.  its  speed  is  less,  losing 
itself  in  the  northern  limit  of  the  counterjcurrent,  which  is 
ordinarily  felt  between  1CP  and  5°^N\  The  temperature  of 
the  water  increases  from  the  24th  parallel,  where  it  stands 
at  74°.5,  to  the  equator,  where  it  reaches  about  81°.7  in 
the  eastern  portion  of  the  Pacific ;  83°.l  in  the  central  part ; 
88°.5  in  the  western  part,  and  in  the  neighborhood  of  New 
Guinea.  The  northern  equatorial  current  is  felt  in  the 
West  Pacific  as  far  as  the  Loochoo  islands,  (China.)  It  is 
bounded  on  the  meridian  of  142°  E.  by  the  parallels  26°  and 
12°  N.  Its  southern  limit  passes  between  Guam  island  <f  aun/W**-^ 
(Mariana  group)  and  the  islands  of  Oulouthi,  situated  about  ' 
360  miles  to  the  SW.  Beyond  the  meridian  142°  E.  the 
drift  is  toward  WN  W.,  and  the  bed  of  the  current  contracts 
4N 


50  SOUTHERN  EQUATORIAL  CURRENT. 

as  it  approaches  the  island  of  Formosa.  At  some  distance 
from  this  island  the  current  inclines  to  the  northward,  form- 
ing a  circuit  analogous  to  that  of  the  Gulf  stream  in  the 
Atlantic.  From  this  point  the  stream  comes  under  the  head 
of  the  Japan  current,  (vide  §  37.) 

Alternate  currents,  depending  upon  the  prevailing  mon- 
soon, exist  between  the  equator  and  the  southern  limit  of 
the  northern  equatorial  current,  and  from  the  meridian  of 
142°  E.  to  the  Waygiou,  Gillolo,  and  Philippine  islands. 
These  are  sometimes  called  the  currents  of  the  Caroline- 
monsoons,  because  the  maximum  speed  of  this  current,  to- 
ward NE.  and  ENE.,  is  observed  a  little  to  the  westward  of 
the  Caroline  islands  during  the  SW.  monsoon,  (from  June  to 
October;)  but  during  the  NE.  monsoon,  (from  October  to 
May,)  the  current  sets  to  SW.  and  WSW.,  and  forms  a  pro- 
longation of  the  northern  equatorial  current. 


e  ua°  riaT^u  rn     ^ne  soutnern  equatorial  current  begins  near  88°  W.,  and 
rent.  flows  toward  W.  and  WNW.,  with  a  mean  and  constant 

speed  of  about  one  knot  per  hour;  it  reaches  from  the 
equator  to  the  tropic  of  Capricorn,  and  even  to  26°  S.,  in 
the  part  comprised  between  the  Paumotas  and  Tongas. 
But  the  drift  of  the  stream  is  no  longer  regular  beyond  the 
meridians  of  the  Samoa  and  Tonga  islands  ;  this  may  be 
accounted  for  by  the  variable  winds  which  prevail  from 
November  to  March  in  the  western  part  of  the  South  Paci- 
fic, (vide  §  4.)  Between  20°  and  26°  S.  and  west  of  178°  W. 
the  waters  of  the  southern  equatorial  current  divide  into 
two  branches,  called  respectively  the  Eossel  current  (vide 
§  31)  and  the  Australian  current  (vide  §  29.)  The  maximum 
temperature  of  the  southern  equatorial  current  appears  to 
be  reached  on  each  meridian  between  the  parallels  8°  and 
15°  S.  This  maximum  is  about  78°.8  between  105°  and 
120°  W.,  80°.6  between  120°  and  135°  W.,  and  84°.2  near 
1780  W. 

§  28.  THE  EQUATORIAL  COUNTER-CURRENT.—  The  equato- 
rial counter-  cur  rent  is  an  irregular  stream,  setting  toward  the 
east;  it  is  about  three  hundred  miles  wide,  and  lies  between 
the  northern  and  southern  equatorial  currents.  Though 
the  limits  of  the  counter-current  are  imperfectly  defined,  it 
appears  to  be  comprised  between  the  equator  and  the  par- 
allel 8°  N.  ;  the  greatest  width  of  its  bed  is  never  more  than 
5°  of  latitude.  In  the  eastern  part  of  the  Pacific  it  gene- 


AUSTRALIAN    CURRENTS.  51 

rally  keeps  between  5°  and  8°  K,  while  in  the  Central  Pa- 
cific it  is  generally  nearer  the  equator. 

It  sets  toward  the  east  with  a  speed  of  sometimes  two- 
knots  and  a  half  per  hour  ;  but  its  rate  is  ordinarily  much 
less;  the  mean  speed  being  about  .6  of  a  knot. 

The  existence  of  an  easterly  counter-current  in  all  that) 
part  of  the  Pacific  which  lies  between  the  Carolines  arid  the 
coast  of  America  is  very  doubtful.  But  the  motion  of  the- 
sea  appears,  without  doubt,  to  be  constant  in  the  western, 
part  of  the  ocean  to  the  southward  of  the  Carolines,  and 
even  as  far  as  the  Mulgrave  islands.  Therefore,  sailing- 
vessels  can  make  their  "eastings"  without  much  difficulty 
by  keeping  a  little  to  the  northward  of  2°  N.,  which  appear* 
to  be  the  limit  of  the  southern  equatorial  current.  Natur- 
ally navigation  is  here  rendered  still  easier  between  June 
and  October,  when  the  SW.  monsoon  may  be  expected. 
This  wind  sometimes  extends  even  beyond  tlie  Caroline 
islands.  The  reader  should  also  remember  what  was  said 
in  §  27  upon  the  subject  of  the  alternate  currents  which 
predominate  to  the  westward  of  the  Carolines,  and  which 
certainly  sustain  the  equatorial  counter-current  during  the 
SW.  monsoon. 

§  29.  THE  AUSTRALIAN  CURRENTS,  (EAST  COAST.)— A 
distinction  should  be  made  between  the  great  ocean  current 
and  the  coast  current. 

The  ocean  current  off  the  eastern  coast  of  Australia  is 
only  the  prolongation  of  one  of  the  branches  of  the  southern 
equatorial  current,  which  divides  a  little  to  the  southward 
of  the  Fiji  islands  and  west  of  178°  W.  As  has  been, 
staled  in  §  27,  one  branch  forms  the  Kossel  current,  (vide 
§  31,)  the  other  the  Australian  current. 

This  latter  current  first  sets  toward  the  west  and  passes 
to  the  southward  of  New  Caledonia,  then  it  turns  to  the 
SW.  and  passes  to  the  westward  of  Norfolk  island.  It  con 
tiuues  to  run  to  the  SW.,  setting  toward  Howe  island  and. 
to  about  28°  or  30°  S.  Here  the  current  is  found  about 
300  miles  from  the  coast,  and  extends  to  about  480  miles 
that  is,  its  breadth  is  about  180  miles.  It  stretches  toward 
the  south,  particularly  between  152°  and  157°  E.,  and  in- 
clines to  the  SE.  after  passing  the  parallel  of  the  extreme 
southern  limit  of  Tasmania.  The  strength  of  this  current 
varies  from  6  to  19  miles  per  day;  its  temperature,  which, 


52  AUSTRALIAN   CURRENTS. 

decreases  rapidly  as  the  waters  advance  to  the  southward 
has  been  found  to  be  (in  the  center  of  the  current)  70°  on 
the  parallel  of  port  Jackson ;  60°.8  on  the  parallel  of  Bass 
strait;  and  from  53°.6  to  55°. 4  on  the  parallel  of  Tasmania. 
Currents  on  the  On  the  eastern  coast  of  Australia  and  to  the  southward 

eastern   coast  of     /.  oo^  ct  x-  m  •       ^.i 

Australia.  of  28°  8.,  as  far  as  Tasmania,  there  are  two  sets  of  opposite 
currents,  one  within  21  miles  of  the  land,  the  other  beyond 
that  distance  from  the  coast. 

Thus,  during  the  southern  summer,  from  15th  August  to 
15th  April,  the  current,  within  21  miles  of  the  coast,  gener- 
ally sets  toward  S.  by  W.,  with  a  mean  speed  of  6  miles  per 
day.  At  the  same  time  and  beyond  2L  miles,  a  current  is 
found  setting  to  N.  by  E.,  with  a  speed  of  about  18  miles 
per  day. 

On  the  contrary  during  the  southern  winter,  from  15th 
April  to  15th  August,  the  direction  of  the  current  is  toward 
N.  by  E.,  with  a  daily  speed  of  6  miles,  within  21  miles  of 
the  coast;  while,  beyond  21  miles,  it  runs  toward  S.  by  W., 
with  a  speed  of  18  miles.  It  should  be  added  that  the  pre- 
vailing current,  which  exists  beyond  21  miles  from  the  coast, 
from  15th  August  to  15th  April,  and  which  sets  toward  N. 
by  E.,  rarely  extends  beyond  60  miles.  Farther  from  the 
coast,  the  ocean  current,  alluded  to  at  the  commencement  of 
the  present  paragraph,  is  found. 

§  30.  THE  AUSTRALIAN  CURRENTS,  (SOUTH  COAST,  FROM 
CAPE  LEEUWIN  TO  BASS  STRAIT.) — On  the  southern  coast 
of  Australia  a  tolerably  regular  current  exists,  flowing  to 
the  eastward.  This  motion  appears  to  be  the  natural  effect 
of  the  permanent  winds  which  blow  from  NW.  to  SW.,  as 
has  been  stated  in  §  6. 

Off  cape  Leeuwin  the  stream  coming  from  W.  and  SW. 
appears  to  be  divided  into  two  branches :  one  striking  to 
the  northward,  along  the  western  coast  of  Australia;  the 
other  to  the  eastward,  with  a  variable  speed,  influenced  no 
doubt  by  the  force  and  direction  of  the  prevalent  winds.  In 
the  vicinity  of  cape  Leeuwiu,  and  as  far  as  King  George's 
sound,  the  rate  is  often  more  than  a  knot,  say  28  or  29  miles 
per  day,  and  even  more  than  a  knot  and  a  half,  say  36  miles 
per  day,  in  the  part  of  the  ocean  comprised  between  point 
D'Entrecasteaux  and  King  George's  sound.  Farther  to  the 
eastward  the  speed  diminishes,  and  it  is  especially  variable 
and  feeble  in  the  large  gulf  lying  between  the  Recherche 


THE    ROSSEL   CURRENT.  5$ 

islands  on  one  side,  and  capes  Northumberland  and  Bridge- 
water  on  the  other.  Nor  does  it  seem  astonishing  that,  in 
this  large  bight,  when  the  wind  no  longer  blows  from  the 
westward  with  any  regularity,  (vide  §  6,)  the  current  should 
not  set  to  the  eastward  with  the  same  strength  as  between 
the  parallels  38°  and  40°  S.  It  would  seem  only  natural 
that  eddies  and  return  westerly  currents  should  be  found  in 
the  bight  and  along  the  land,  particularly  from  January  to 
April,  when  the  winds  are  here  from  SE.  and  ENE. 

Beyond  cape  Bridgewater  and  in  approaching  Bass  strait 
the  easterly  current  again  becomes  manifest  with  a  speed  of 
about  1  knot  per  hour. 

The  body  of  the  current  passes  to  the  southward  of  Tas- 
mania, though  a  part  crosses  Bass  strait.  Therefore  a  ship 
is  nearly  always  set  to  the  eastward  along  the  coast  of 
Australia,  between  cape  Otway  and  Wilson  promontory. 
After  passing  2  or  3  degrees  beyond  the  longitude  of  the 
Furneaux  islands  easterly  currents  are  found ;  their  exist- 
ence has  also  often  been  proved  between  Wilson  promontory 
and  cape  Howe,  near  which  they  flow  to  the  eastward  with 
a  speed  of  about  1  knot  per  hour. 

The  tides  can  scarcely  be  relied  upon  in  Bass  strait.  In 
this  passage  the  food  tide  sets  to  the  westward  ;  as  may  be 
seen  by  comparing  the  establishments  of  the  port  for  differ- 
ent points  on  the  coast  of  Australia  and  Tasmania.  Thus, 
at  full  and  new  moon  the  tide  is  high  successively  at  cape 
Howe  at  9b  and  at  Wilson  promontory  (Refuge  creek)  at  12h. 
Again,  at  the  same  epochs,  it  is  high  water  in  the  Furneaux 
islands,  between  10h  and  11 h;  at  port  Dairy mple,  at  12h  5m; 
and  in  Franklin  roads,  (King  island,)  at  I11.  The  ebb  tide 
naturally  makes  in  an  opposite  direction,  or  to  the  eastward, 
in  King  strait,  and  upon  the  adjacent  coast  of  Australia. 

From  these  observations  it  will  be  seen  that  a  vessel  mak- 
ing passage  through  Bass  strait,  from  west  to  east,  has  the 
flood  tide  longer  than  the  ebb  ;  this  is  unfavorable,  as  the 
flood  tide  sets  to  the  westward.  Inversely,  ships  making 
passage  to  the  westward  have  the  flood  in  their  favor. 

§  31.  THE  ROSSEL  CURRENT. — As  has  been  stated  in  §  27, 
the  waters  of  the  southern  equatorial  current,  comprised 
between  20°  and  26°  S.,  and  to  the  southward  of  the  Fiji 
islands,  divide  into  two  branches.  One  of  these  branches 
stretches  to  the  SW.,  increasing  the  current  off  the  eastern 


54  ANTARCTIC  DRIFT- CURRENT. 

•coast  of  Australia,  (vide  §  29 ;)  tbe  other  sets  toward  NW., 
-and  is  called  the  Kossel  current. 

The  waters  of  this  current  pass  between  New  Caledonia 
:and  the  New  Hebrides,  and  about  150  miles  to  the  eastward 
of  this  group.  They  flow  toward  NW.  and  pass  south  of 
Vanikoro  island  and  the  Solomon  group,  when  they  change 
their  direction  to  W.  and  WNVV.,  and  set  toward  Torres 
strait  The  speed  of  the  Eossel  current  varies  generally 
from  4  to  18  miles  per  day ;  its  mean  rate  is  from  8  to  10 
miles.  The  temperature  of  the  water  is  about  78°. 

§  32.  GENERAL  CURRENTS  IN  THE  "  SEAS  OF  PASSAGE." — 
In  the  "seas  of  passage,"  that  is,  in  the  Java,  Celebes, 
Banda,  Timor,  and  Arafura  seas,  the  currents  generally  set 
in  the  same  direction  as  the  monsoons.  The  water  appears 
to  be  put  in  motion  by  the  wind.  The  currents  usually 
flow  in  a  westerly  direction  while  the  NE.  and  SE.  mon- 
soons prevail ;  on  the  contrary,  their  direction  is  toward  the 
€ast  during  the  SW.  and  NW.  monsoons. 

The  direction  of  the  current  varies,  not  only  with  the 
•change  in  direction  of  the  wind,  which  occurs  at  times  dur- 
ing a  monsoon ;  but  also,  in  consequence  of  the  impulse 
received  in  the  neighborhood  of  the  straits  from  the  cur- 
rents which  run  rapidly  in  all  narrow  channels. 

*Che  usual  speed  is  rarely  over  1£  knots  per  hour,  except 
through  the  straits,  where  it  is  often  much  more.  Thus,  in 
the  straits  of  Sunda,  Bali,  Lombok,  Alias,  Sapi,  Flores, 
Alloo,  Pantar,  and  Ornbay,  the  currents  are  often  very 
rapid ;  they  depend  upon  the  direction  of  the  wind,  and  es- 
pecially of  the  tide.  Though  they  are  uncertain  and  irregu- 
lar, they  ordinarily  set  toward  the  east  in  the  strait  of 
-Sunda  from  January  to  April,  and  in  the  opposite  direction 
during  the  rest  of  the  year,  with  a  speed  of  often  3£  knots 
per  hour. 

§  33.  THE  GREAT  ANTARCTIC  DRIFT- CURRENT. — This 
name  is  given  in  the  Pacific,  as  well  as  in  the  Atlantic  and 
in  the  Indian  oceans,  to  the  great  body  of  water  moving  to- 
ward the  east,  between  40°  and  60°  S.,  with  a  constancy 
analogous  to  that  of  the  prevalent  westerly  winds. 

This  current  is  particularly  noticed  in  the  Pacific,  between 
45°  and  55°  S.,  from  Tasmania,  and  the  S.  point  of  Stewart 
island,  (New  Zealand,)  to  about  118°  or  108°  W.  At  this 
longitude  a  portion  branches  off  and  forms  the  Mentor  cur- 


CURRENTS  OF   THE   CHINA  SEA.  55 

rait,  (vide  §  34,)  which  flows  to  the  NE.,  toward  St.  Am- 
brose islands,  near  78°  W.  and  26°  S.  The  greater  part  of 
the  main  current  continues  to  drift  to  the  eastward,  as 
far  as  84°  or  86°  W.,  where  the  waters  of  this  southern 
branch  divide  into  two  currents,  between  the  parallels  42° 
and  47°  S.  $  one  bears  to  the  northeast  in  the  direction  of 
Valdivia  and  Valparaiso,  forming  the  Chile  current,  (vide 
§  40  ;)  the  other  tends  to  ESE.  and  SE.,  in  the  direction  of 
the  gulf  of  Peiias  and  the  strait  of  Magellan,  and  forms  the 
cape  Horn  current,  (vide  §  42.) 

The  Antarctic  drift-current  has  apparently  a  mean  speed 
of  about  20  miles  per  day  ;  but  the  figures  on  this  subject 
are  not  thoroughly  reliable. 

A  much  stronger  current  is  sometimes  noticed  setting 
toward  NE.  or  SE.,  generally  after  a  series  of  strong  west- 
erly winds.  Under  other  circumstances  there  is  either  no 
current  at  all,  or  one  in  an  opposite  direction,  particularly 
during  the  southern  summer,  and  after  easterly  winds. 
Generally  the  current  is  strongest  and  most  favorable  for 
vessels  crossing  the  Pacific  near  50°  S. 

§  34.  THE  MENTOR  CURRENT.— It  has  been  seen  above 
(§  33)  that  a  part  of  the  Antarctic  drift-current  sets  toward 
ENE.,  near  118°  or  108°  W.,  in  the  direction  of  the  St.  Am- 
brose islands.  This  branch,  which  is  called  the  Mentor  cur- 
rent, has  a  mean  speed  of  0.7  of  a  knot  per  hour.  It  is  com- 
prised in  a  zone  of  several  degrees  of  latitude,  lying  to  the 
northward  and  southward  of  a  line  drawn  from  42°  S.  and 
1280  W.,  to  30°  S.  and  85°  W.  Beyond  85°  W.  the  waters 
shape  their  course  to  the  northward  ;  first,  toward  NE., 
then  toward  N.,  after  they  reach  the  parallel  of  the  St. 
Ambrose  islands.  Beyond  this  latitude  the  current  bends 
rapidly  to  the  NW.,  passing  the  parallel  20°  S.,  between 
83°  and  88°  W. ;  it  then  bears  to  the  westward  and  becomes 
merged  in  the  southern  equatorial  current. 

The  Mentor  current,  in  the  eastern  part  of  the  Pacific,  unites 
the  Antarctic  drift-current  to  the  southern  equatorial  cur- 
rent, in  the  same  manner  as  these  two  currents  are  united 
by  the  Australian  current  (vide  §  29)  in  the  western  Pacific. 

In  the  northern  hemisphere  the  equatorial  current  also 
describes  a  complete  circuit  by  uniting  the  Japan  current 
(vide  §  37)  to  the  California  current,  (vide  §  39.) 

§  35.  THE  CURRENTS  OF  THE  CHINA  SEA.— The  currents 
of  the  China  sea  appear  to  be  caused  by  the  wind ;  during 


56  CURRENTS  OF   THE  CHINA  SEA. 

the  NE.  monsoon  they  tend  generally  to  the  SW.,  and  dur- 
ing the  SW.  monsoon  to  the  NE. 

This  fundamental  principle  being  admitted  we  shall  men- 
tion as  briefly  as  possible  the  principal  exceptions,  and  the 
most  important  facts  which  have  been  observed  and  which 
demand  attention. 
Carrent  during     During  the  NE.  monsoon  the  direction  of  the  current  on 

tne      JN.L.     moil- 

soon.  the  S.  coast  of  China  is  WSW.;  its  speed  is  sometimes  2,  3, 

and  even  4  knots,  particularly  in  shoal  water,  and  within 
60  miles  of  the  shore.  Between  Pulo-Canton  and  cape  Pa- 
daran  (Cochin-Chin a)  the  current  is  southerly,  and  some- 
times reaches,  near  land,  a  speed  of  from  2  to  2.5  knots. 
From  cape  Padaran  to  Pulo-Obi  it  flows  to  SW.,  but  it 
should  be  added  that  on  this  coast  the  ebb  tide  sets  to  the 
NE.,  and  the  flood  to  the  SW.  ;  from  Pulo-Obi  to  Pulo- 
Capas  and  Pulo-Brala  there  are  SSW.  and  S.  currents,  run- 
ning at  a  rate  of  2  or  2.5  knots  per  hour.  On  the  north- 
ern coast  of  the  Malay  peninsula  the  currents  flow  to 
SSE. ;  between  Bintang  and  Borneo  the  general  direction 
is  southerly. 

On  the  ETW.  coast  of  Borneo,  and  NE.  of  the  Natunas,  a 
counter-current  often  flows  to  KE.  and  N.  This  can  be 
often  utilized  while  beating  up  the  China  sea  against  the 
monsoon.  On  the  west  coasts  of  Palawan  and  Luzon  the 
currents  are  variable,  and  ordinarily  dependent  on  the  pre- 
vailing winds ;  they  often  set  to  the  northward,  especially 
along  the  coast  of  Luzon.  When  these  currents  are  strong 
as  far  as  cape  Bojeador,  they  then  bend  to  KB.  and  ENE. 
toward  the  Babuyan  islands,  where  they  meet  the  SW.  cur- 
rent coming  from  the  north  of  the  China  sea ;  and  also  the 
westerly  current  coming  from  the  northern  equatorial  cur- 
rent. Consequently,  eddies  and  variable  currents  are  here 
found  flowing  in  different  directions,  and  often  obtaining 
considerable  speed. 

In  Formosa  channel  the  current  sets  to  the  southward. 
Current  during     During  the  SW.  monsoon  the  flow  of  the  current  varies 

b\? »  monsoon. 

on  the  E.  coast  of  China,  from  NNE.  to  ENE.;  its  speed  be- 
ing sometimes  3  or  even  4  knots.  At  the  Pescadores  isles, 
a  current  has  been  noted  during  the  month  of  August,  set- 
ting to  the  northward  at  the  rate  of  4  knots.  Oil  the  south- 
ern coast  of  China  the  current  flows  to  the  eastward.  The 
waters  of  the  Canton  river  make  out  to  sea  in  a  direction 


CURRENTS  OP  THE  JAPAN   SEA.  57 

between  WSW.  and  WNW.,  forming  a  genuine  current 
with  a  speed  which  often  reaches  1  or  2  knots  between  Macao 
and  St.  John.  Still  it  is  best  not  to  rely  on  this  current,  as 
it  sometimes  amounts  to  little  or  nothing  or  is  replaced  by 
an  easterly  one  during  the  SW.  monsoon.  Between  cape 
Padaran  and  Hainan  the  stream  is  very  irregular  and  feeble, 
especially  along  the  coast  between  Padaran  and  Pulo-Can- 
ton.  Abreast  of  the  gulf  of  Tonquin,  and  during  N  W.  and 
W.  gales,  the  current  flows  to  SW.  and  S.,  and  as  it  sets 
across  the  direction  of  the  monsoon,  a  heavy  and  broken 
sea  is  produced.  From  Padaran  to  Pulo-Obi  the  current 
flows  toward  E.,  but  the  tide  must  be  taken  into  account 
along  this  coast;  the  flood  setting  to  SW.  and  the  ebb  to 
NE.  Abreast  of  the  gulf  of  Siam  the  currents  are  to  the  N. 
or  NE. ;  on  the  northern  coast  of  the  Malay  peninsula  they 
flow  to  the  N. ;  on  the  western  coasts  of  Palawan  and  Luzon 
a  moderate  current  sometimes  flows  to  the  N.  Northerly 
currents  sometimes  make  out  from  near  cape  Bojeador  with 
great  swiftness,  and  tend  to  the  NE.,  toward  the  Calayan 
and  Camiguin  islands,  (Babuyans;)  one  part  of  the  stream 
follows  the  north  coast  of  Luzon,  flowing  ESE. ;  then,  meet- 
ing cape  Engaiio,  bears  to  the  northward.  The  waters  are 
then  affected  by  the  northern  equatorial  current,  which  im- 
pels them  to  the  NW.  They  have  sometimes  a  speed  of  5 
knots  per  hour,  which  slackens  quickly  some  distance  beyond 
cape  Engaiio.  The  current  which  we  have  already  noted 
as  existing  during  the  NE.  monsoon,  causes  strong  eddies 
among  the  Babuyans  islands,  but  rarely  reaches  to  the 
Bashees.  In  this  last  group  of  islands  the  current  flows 
swiftly  in  a  northerly  direction  ;  sometimes  it  tends  toward 
the  east  when  there  are  strong  westerly  breezes. 

§  36.  THE  CURRENTS  OF  THE  JAPAN  SEA. — It  has  been 
seen,  §  19,  that  information  is  not  yet  complete  concerning 
the  system  of  winds  prevalent  in  the  Japan  sea,  which  lies 
between  the  coast  of  Tartary  and  the  islands  of  Japan.  This 
remark  is  equally  true  of  the  currents.  The  only  thing  which 
can  be  positively  asserted  is  that  both  winds  and  currents 
in  this  sea  are  variable,  and  that  it  is  necessary  for  navigators 
to  be  extremely  careful  while  passing  from  Corea  channel 
to  Tsugar  strait. 

Vol.  11  of  the  North  Pacific  Pilot  contains  the  following 
remarks  by  Lieut.  Silas  Bent,  U.  S.  Navy: 


58  CURRENTS  OF  THE  JAPAN  SEA. 

"I  am  inclined  to  believe  that  a  current  from  the  Arctic 
ocean  exists,  running  counter  to  the  Kuro-Siwo,  and  which 
passes  to  the  westward  through  the  strait  of  Tsugar,  down 
through  the  Japan  sea,  between  Corea  and  the  Japanese 
islands,  and  forms  the  hyperborean  current  on  the  east 
coast  of  China,  which  is  known  to  flow  to  the  southward, 
through  the  Formosa  channel  into  the  China  sea.  For,  to 
the  westward  of  a  line  connecting  the  north  end  of  Formosa 
and  the  southwestern  extremity  of  Japan,  there  is  no  flow 
of  tropical  waters  to  the  northward ;  but,  on  the  contrary, 
a  cold  counter-current  filling  the  space  between  the  Kuro- 
Siwo  and  the  coast  of  China.  As  far  as  this  cold  water  ex- 
tends off  the  coast  the  soundings  are  regular,  and  increase 
gradually  in  depth  j  but  simultaneously  with  the  increase  of 
temperature  in  the  water,  the  plummet  falls  into  a  trough 
similar  to  the  bed  of  the  Gulf-stream." 

According  to  this  quotation,  the  sea  of  Japan  is  traversed 
from  N.  to  8.  by  a  cold  current  coining  from  the  coast  of 
Kamtchatka  and  the  Kuriles;  entering  by  the  strait  of 
Tsugar,  and  leaving  by  Corea  channel,  thus  opposing  the 
entrance  through  the  strait  of  Corea  of  the  warm  waters  of 
the  equatorial  and  Kuro-Siwo  currents,  which  tend  to  NE. 
to  the  northward  of  the  Loochoo  islands ;  but  we  would  add 
that  the  foregoing  assertion  is  too  positive,  in  proof  of 
which  we  cite  the  following  passage  from  the  instructions 
of  Captain  Legras : 

"  The  speed  of  the  currents  is  at  times  very  slow;  at  others, 
very  considerable.  It  is  only  known  that  a  branch  of  the 
Kuro-Siwo  is  directed  usually  (although  with  numerous 
variations  in  its  strength,  direction,  and  breadth,  and- 
greatly  influenced  by  the  wind,)  toward  the  NE.,  after  leav 
ing  the  strait  of  Corea,  and  enters  into  the  Pacific  by  Tsugar 
strait.  It  is  also  a  known  fact  that,  in  the  autumn,  another 
current  is  found,  generally  setting  to  ESE.  in  La  Perouse 
strait,  and  to  SW.  in  summer  along  the  coast  of  Manchuria." 

We  will  finish  with  an  extract  from  the  Coast  Survey 
lieport  of  1867,  which  shows,  in  a  more  general  manner  than 
that  of  Lieutenant  Bent,  the  existence  of  a  cold  current  set- 
ting to  the  southward  in  the  Japan  sea : 

"  Bet  ween  the  Kamtchatka  current  and  the  Asiatic  coast 
and  islands  is  a  cold  polar  counter-current  coming  from  the 
Behriug  sea.  It  follows  the  coast  of  Kamtchatka,  the  trend 


THE  JAPAN  CURRENT.  50 

of  the  Kurile  islands,  gives  rise  to  the  currents  flowing 
west  into  the  south  part  of  the  Okhotsk  sea,  and  strikes  the 
northern  and  eastern  part  of  the  sea  of  Japan.  A  small 
amount  of  the  water  of  this  current  passes  into  the  Japan 
sea  through  Tsugar  strait,  but  the  greater  part  keeps  along 
the  east  coast  inside,  and  probably  underruns  the  great 
Japan  current,  the  northwestern  ledge  of  which  is  strongly 
marked  by  a  sudden  depression  in  the  temperature  of  the 
water."  ^cJiJjJ^ 

§  37.  THE  KURO-SIWO  OR  JAPAN  CURRENT.— One  branch 
of  the  northern  equatorial  current,  after  having  passed  the 
Marriana  islands,  flows  toward  the  eastern  coast  of  For- 
mosa, in  a  WN  W.  direction.  It  makes  a  sharp  turn  toward 
north  while  passing  between  Formosa  and  the  Meiaco-Sima 
islands.  Next  flowing  toward  NE.  it  makes  the  circuit  of 
the  Loo-Choo  islands  ;  then  it  passes  between  the  islands  of 
Kakai-Sima,  and  Ou-Sima  to  the  southward  ;  and  the  large 
island  of  Kiusiu  to  the  northward.  It  bears  off  along  the 
coast  of  Niphon,  passing  by  the  bay  of  Yedo,  and  opens 
out,  in  a  fan-shaped  manner,  toward  the  different  points  of 
the  compass  between  NE.  and  E. ;  after  leaving  South 
island  and  Bayounaise  rock,  situated  nearly  on  the  meri- 
dian of  the  bay  of  Yedo,  the  current  occupies  nearly  the 
whole  sector,  which  extends  from  40°  K".  to  Moor  island. 

This  current  is  called  Kuro-Siico  by  the  Japanese,  that  is 
black  current,  on  account  of  its  dark-blue  waters,  and  pre- 
sents many  analogies  to  the  Gulf  stream  of  the  Atlantic. 

Its  breadth,  between  the  islands  of  Formosa  and  Majico- 
Sima,  is  hardly  100  miles ;  but  it  rapidly  grows  wider  after 
the  current  has  doubled  the  Loo-Choo  islands.  Between  the 
Bonin  islands  and  the  coast  of  Niphon  it  attains  a  width  of 
about  500  miles. 

Its  average  speed  appears  to  be  about  L.5  knots.  From 
the  strait  of  Formosa  to  the  coast  of  Japan  it  increases,  and 
reaches  its  maximum  between  the  meridians  of  Kiusiu  and 
the  bay  of  Yedo. 

In  this  part  of  the  current  a  speed  of  from  72  to  80  miles 
per  day  is  sometimes  observed.  On  the  parallel  35°  ]S".,  and 
at  a  distance  of  200  miles  from  the  coast,  a  current  setting 
to  ENE.  has  been  proved  to  exist,  with  a  speed  of  48  miles 
per  day ;  and  on  the  same  parallel,  at  a  distance  of  only 


CO  THE   JAPAN   CURRENT. 

75  miles  from  the  coast,  the  speed  has  been  found  to  be  72 
miles. 

King  states  that  in  the  same  latitudes  there  is  a  current 
of  5  knots  per  hour.  During  the  winter  (November)  the 
currents  on  the  coast  of  Japan  have  a  more  northerly  direc- 
tion ;  in  summer  (July)  they  incline  more  to  the  eastward. 

The  mean  maximum  temperature  of  the  Kuro-Siwo  is 
about  86°.  The  northern  edge  of  the  Kuro-Siwo  is  sepa- 
rated from  the  coasts  of  Yesso  and  Niphon  (to  the  K.  of 
Yedo  bay)  by  a  cold  current  coming  from  Karntchatka  and 
the  Kurile  islands,  (vide  the  end  of  §  36.)  This  cold  cur- 
rent is  analogous  to  the  one  which  lies  between  the  Gulf- 
stream  and  the  coast  of  the  United  States ;  its  temperature 
is  about  16°  or  20°  below  that  of  the  Kuro-Siwo.  The  limit 
of  the  two  currents  is  marked  by  the  sudden  change  in  the 
color  and  temperature  of  the  waters. 

As  in  the  Atlantic,  eddies,  bad  weather,  and  thick  fogs 
are  here  found.  It  is  not  so  easy  to  determine  the  south- 
ern limit  of  Kuro-Siwo.  The  change  of  color  in  the  water 
is  nearly  imperceptible ;  the  change  in  temperature  cannot 
be  more  than  7°  or  9°,  and  is  only  gradually  felt.  Near 
146°  or  147°  E.,  between  Moor  island  and  40°  N.,  the  Kuro- 
Siwo  current  divides  into  two  parts.  One,  called  the  Kamt- 
chatka  current,  (vide  §  38,)  flows  in  a  NE.  direction,  hav- 
ing for  its  axis  a  line  drawn  through  151°  E.  and  joining 
40°  N.  with  Behring  strait.  The  other  branch,  which  is 
by  far  the  larger,  crosses  the  Pacific  in  a  general  easterly 
direction,  in  the  same  manner  as  the  Antarctic  drift-cur- 
rent in  the  southern  hemisphere. 

This  main  branch  of  the  Kuro-Siwo  is  generally  called  the 
Japan,  or  Tessan  current.  The  waters  of  this  stream  flow 
toward  E.  and  SE.,  after  passing  the  meridian  152°  E,, 
until  they  reach  172°  E.,  between  the  tropic  of  Cancer  and 
40°  N.  The  current  bears  toward  E.  between  172°  E.  and 
163°  W.,  and  particularly  in  the  zone  to  the  westward  of 
the  Sandwich  islands,  included  between  20°  and  24°  N. 
On  the  meridian  of  163°  W.,  and  N.  of  the  tropics,  as  far 
as  44°  ]$".,  the  direction  of  the  current  is  nearly  NE. ;  the 
southern  part  of  the  current  is  bounded  by  a  line  passing 
through  103°  W.,  and  joining  the  tropic,  and  40°  K  at  148° 
W.  On  this  meridian  of  148°  W.  the  current  flows  NE. 
between  40°  and  50°  N.,  it  then  tends  to  E.  and  SE.,  and 


THE  JAPAN   CURRENT.  61 

unites  with  the  current  of  the  coast  of  California,  (vide  § 
39.) 

The  temperature  of  the  current  of  Tessan  has  been  found 
to  be  810.5  at  27°  N.  and  177°  E. ;  only  61°  at  36°  N. 
and  128°  W.  This  shows  the  cooling  of  the  waters  during 
their  passage  through  55°  of  longitude.  The  temperature 
has  been  found  to  be  from  77°  to  79°  at  21°  N.  and  163°  W.; 
in  other  words,  at  this  point  on  the  southern  limit  of  the 
Tessan  current  the  water  was  at  least  3°.o  warmer  than  in 
the  northern  equatorial  current,  which  flows  in  an  opposite 
direction,  a  short  distance  farther  south. 

§  38.  THE  KAMTCHATKA  AND  BEHRING  CURRENTS.— The 
waters  of  the  Kuro-Slwo  separate  into  two  branches,  as 
has  been  stated  above,  near  146°  or  147°  E.,  between  Moor 
island  and  40°  N".  The  least  known,  as  well  as  the  least  im- 
portant, of  these  branches  takes  the  name  of  the  Kamtchatka 
current ;  it  flows  toward  NB.,  having  for  axis  a  line  passing 
through  151°  E.,  and  joining  40°  N.  and  Behring  strait.  This 
current,  about  which  little  is  known,  passes  to  the  west  of 
the  Aleutian  islands,  at -a  distance  of  about  150  miles  from 
the  coast  of  Kamtchatka.  In  August  and  September  the 
temperature  has  been  found  to  be  52°  off  Petropaulski ;  its 
vSpeed  is  about  0.3  of  a  knot  per  hour. 

It  may  be  here  stated  that  there  exists  a  cold  polar 
counter-current  (vide  end  of  §  36)  between  the  current 
above  mentioned  and  the  coast  of  Kamtchatka.  It  comes 
from  Behring  sea,  follows  the  coast  of  Kamchatka  and 
the  direction  of  the  Kurile  islands,  and  gives  rise  to 
currents  which  cease  in  the  southern  part  of  the  sea  of 
Okhotsk. 

Behring  current  is  a  stream  which   runs   at   a  rate  of  re^HSrins, CDr" 
about  half  a  knot,  and  appears  to  issue  from  Behriug  strait, 
and  bends  first  toward  SSE.,  afterward  passing  to  the  east-    /  / 

ward  of  St.  Lawrence  island.    It  then  flows  S.  and  SSW.,   C_  / 

toward  the  Aleutian  islands,  passing  to  the  eastward  of  St.   " 
Mathew's  island. 

§  39.   THE    CURRENTS    OF   THE    COASTS    OF  CALIFORNIA  /^)    A    A_^ 

AND  MEXICO.— On  the  coast  of  California,  from  about  50°         C^^T* 
N.  to  the  mouth  of  the  gulf  of  California,  23°  N.,  a  cold  '  -* 

current,  200  or  300  miles  wide,  flows  with  a  mean  speed  of 
0.7  of  a  knot,  being  generally  stronger  near  the  land  than  at 
sea. 


G2  CURRENTS   ON   THE   COAST   OF  MEXICO. 

Usually  it  follows  the  trend  of  the  land,  that  is  nearly 
SSE.,  as  far  as  point  Conception,  (S.  of  Monterey,)  when 
the  current  begins  to  bend  toward  S.,  SW.,  and  then  to 
WSW.  off  capes  San  Bias  and  St.  Lucas.  The  temper- 
ature off  Monterey  is  not  more  than  55°.5  or  57°  and  only 
590  at  30°  ^. 

currents  on  the     On  the  coast  of  Mexico,  from  cape  Corrientes  (20°  K)  to 

°'  cape  Blanco,  (gulf  of  Nicoya,)  there  are  alternate  currents 

extending  over  a  space  of  more  than  300  miles  in  width, 

which  appear  to  be  produced  by  the  prevailing  winds,  (vide 

§24.) 

During  the  dry  season,  January,  February,  and  March, 
the  currents  generally  set  toward  SE.  During  the  rainy 
season,  from  May  to  October — especially  in  July,  August, 
and  September — the  currents  set  to  NW.,  particularly  from 
Cocos  island  and  the  gulf  of  Nicoya  to  the  parallel  of  15°. 

§  40.   THE   CURRENTS   OF   THE    BAY   OF  PANAMA.— After 

leaving  cape  San  Lorenzo,  or  the  equator,  a  current  is  found 
along  the  coast  of  South  America,  sixty  miles  in  width ;  it 
follows  the  direction  of  the  land,  and,  entering  the  bay  of 
Panama,  makes  a  complete  circuit  of  that  gulf.  After  meet- 
ing the  western  coast  of  the  bay  of  Panama  the  current 
turns  to  the  S.  and  acquires  considerable  velocity,  espe- 
cially during  the  dry  season,  from  December  to  April,  when 
the  winds  are  frequent  from  ENE.,  (vide  §  23.) 

In  the  bay  of  Panama,  and  at  its  entrance,  the  currents 
are  far  from  being  regular,  and,  under  certain  circumstances, 
are  quite  strong.  Eddies  and  a  short,  chop  sea  are  particu- 
larly noticed  in  the  SW.  part  of  the  mouth  of  the  gulf. 
Farther  out,  near  Malpelo  island  for  instance,  very  rapid 
currents  are  found;  these  have  been  observed  to  set  in  en- 
tirely opposite  directions,  sometimes  toward  ENE.,  at  oth- 
ers toward  SW. 

§    41.  THE    CURRENTS   OF    THE    COASTS    OF    CHILE   AND 

PERU. — It  has  been  stated.  §  33,  that  the  Antarctic  drift 
current  is  separated  into  two  branches,  between  42°  and 
47°  S.  One  of  these  branches  flows  toward  NE.,  in  the 
direction  of  Valdivia  and  Valparaiso. 

This  stream  follows  the  various  sinuosities  of  the  coasts 
of  Chile  and  Peru,  and  forms  the  important  current,  the 
existence  of  which  was  first  noted  by  Humboldt. 


CAPE   HORN   CURRENT.  63 

The  principal  characteristic  of  this  current  is  its  relatively 
low  temperature. 

Abreast  of  Valparaiso  52°  have  been  noted ;  of  Coquimbo, 
57° ;  of  Arica,  <>4°.5 ;  of  Callao,  G5°.5 ;  of  Truxillo,  69° ; 
and  off  Cape  Blanco,  CG°  to  73°.5.  The  general  direction 
of  the  waters  between  Pisco  and  Payta  is  toward  NNW. 
and  NW. 

Near  cape  Blanco  the  current  leaves  the  coast  of  America, 
and  bears  toward  the  Galapagos  islands,  passing  them  on 
both  the  northern  and  southern  sides.  Here  it  sets  toward 
WNW.  and  W.  The  breadth  of  the  bed,  on  the  meridian 
of  the  Galapagos,  is  from  400  to  500  miles ;  beyond  this  it 
widens  rapidly,  and  the  current  is  lost  in  the  equatorial 
current  near  108°  W. 

The  breadth  of  the  current  near  the  coasts  of  Chile  and 
Peru  and  as  far  as  cape  Blanco  is  about  150  miles.  Its 
mean  speed  is  nearly  15  miles.  Between  Payta  and  the 
Galapagos,  where  it  obtains  its  maximum  rate,  it  has  been 
known  to  run  on  rare  occasions  as  last  as  50  miles  in 
a  day ;  but  on  the  coast,  from  Valparaiso  to  Callao,  the 
greatest  speed  appears  to  be  24  miles  per  day;  sometimes 
it  is  only  3  miles  in  24  hours ;  nor  is  it  very  rare  to  find 
currents  setting  to  the  southward.  These  act  in  the  most 
unforeseen  manner,  but  usually  last  only  for  a  short  time. 

As  often  happens  in  similar  cases,  the  existence  of  a 
counter-current  has  been  proved  on  different  occasions. 
This  sets  toward  the  S.  with  a  maximum  speed  of  0.5  of  a 
knot  per  hour,  is  very  irregular,  and  extends  only  a  little 
distance  from  shore. 

§  42.  THE  CAPE  HORN  CURRENT.— In  the  "Navigation 
of  the  South  Atlantic  ocean,"  page  131,  will  be  found  a  de- 
scription of  the  cape  Horn  current,  to  which  the  reader 
is  referred,  and  which  will  be  here  completed. 

The  waters  of  the  Antarctic  drift-current  (vide  §  33) 
divide,  between  the  parallels  42°  and  47°  S.,  into  two 
branches,  one  of  which  flows  ESB.  and  SE.,  in  the  direction 
of  the  gulf  of  Peiias  and  the  strait  of  Magellan,  and  forms 
the  cape  Horn  current. 

The  stream  follows  the  indentations  of  the  west  coast  of 
Patagonia,  though  with  a  general  SE.  and  ESE.  direction, 
being  about  150  or  200  miles  in  width.  The  current  runs 


64  ICEBERGS. 

around  Terra  del  Fuego,  toward  E. ;  then  flows  to  NE.,  pass- 
ing through  the  strait  of  Lemaire,  and  by  Staten  island. 

The  swiftness  of  the  current  is  uncertain,  on  account  of 
the  great  variation  of  the  winds  in  these  quarters.  How- 
ever, the  following  observations  can  be  considered  as  form- 
ing a  reliable  average. 

On  the  meridian  of  80°  W.,  and  between  55°  and  60°  S., 
the  current  flows  to  SE.  and  ESE.  at  a  rate  of  from  12  to  24 
miles  per  day.  On  the  meridian  of  75°  W.,  and  about  120 
miles  to  the  southward  of  cape  Pillar,  the  current  flows  to 
SE.  at  about  12  miles.  On  the  same  meridian,  between  55° 
and  60°  S.,  its  speed  is  from  18  to  24  miles  in  an  easterly 
direction.  At  70°  and  71°  W.  and  58°  S.,  its  direction  is 
easterly,  and  rate  about  30  miles  per  day.  South  of  cape 
Horn,  on  the  meridians  of  68°  and  69°  W.,  it  often  attains 
a  speed  of  30  miles.  To  the  southward  and  eastward  of  the 
cape  the  stream  begins  to  curve  to  the  northward  and  east- 
ward, while  between  cape  Horn  and  Staten  island  its  speed 
near  land  is  about  24  miles,  toward  NE.  The  regular  cur- 
rents are,  however,  affected  by  the  tides  running  through 
Lemaire  strait. 

The  flood  is  from  east,  on  the  northern  coast  of  Staten 
island,  and  from  north  in  Lemaire  strait;  according  to 
Horsburgh  it  runs  at  about  2  knots  per  hour,  and  is  influ- 
enced by  the  wind  :  the  speed  of  the  ebb  is  never  more  than 
1  knot.  King  and  Fitz-Koy  state  that  the  flood  runs  as  fast 
as  5  or  7  knots  through  Lemaire  strait. 

Between  cape  Horn  and  Staten  island  the  flood  flows 
toward  !NE.  Thus,  at  the  full  and  change,  high  water 
occurs  at  3h  50m  at  cape  Horn;  and  at  about  4h  30m  at 
Staten  island.  The  flood  tide  flows  toward  NE.,  with  a 
speed  of  3  knots  or  more  per  hour,  between  cape  Horn  and 
the  strait  of  Lemaire.  These  currents  are  scarcely  felt  S. 
of  Staten  island. 

Therefore,  vessels  entering  the  strait  of  Lemaire  with 
favorable  winds  can  easily  pass  through  during  the  flood, 
and  afterward  take  advantage  of  the  ebb  tide  which  sets  to 
SW.,  between  the  strait  and  cape  Horn. 

§  43.  ICEBERGS. — In  the  northern  Pacific  there  is  no  dan- 
ger of  meeting  floating  ice  below  50°  N.,  but  it  is  not  ad- 
visable to  pass  that  parallel  in  making  passage  between 
Japan  or  China  and  California.  In  the  southern  Pacific 


ICEBERGS. 


G5 


floating  ice  has  been  encountered  at  all  seasons,  and  often 
in  quite  low  latitudes.  Icebergs  are,  therefore,  always  to  be 
feared,  especially  during  the  southern  winter,  as  the  nights 
are  then  long.  They  constitute  a  real  danger,  and  the  prin- 
cipal difficulty  in  making  a  passage  from  Australia,  New 
Caledonia,  New  Zealand,  or  Tahiti,  to  cape  Horn. 

Icebergs  have  been  encountered  in  March  and  April. 
They  have  also  been  frequently  seen  from  April  to  August, 
particularly  between  90°  and  1GO°  W.,  and  as  far  north  as 
41°  45'  S.  Finally,  icebergs  have  been  found  in  great  num- 
bers, especially  between  these  same  meridians,  from  Sep- 
tember to  January.  There  is,  however,  danger  of  meeting 
them  at  all  times  of  the  year. 

In  the  following  table  will  be  found  the  latitude-limit  of 
floating  ice,  on  each  meridian,  for  every  10°,  or  even  for 
every  5°,  when  the  changes  are  great.  Though  vessels  may 
run  south  of  this  limit  without  encountering  ice,  they  should 
always  keep  a  bright  lookout  while  in  or  near  these  locali- 
ties. 

Latitude-limit  of  floating  ice. 


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175  W. 

45  50 

140  E. 

47  15 

70  W. 

57  15 

130  W. 

41  45 

180  W. 

49  30 

130  E. 

45  20 

75  W. 

57  00 

140  "W. 

41  20 

170  E. 

51  15 

120  E. 

45  00 

80  W. 

55  10 

150  W. 

40  45 

160  E. 

53  00 

110  E. 

45  00 

90  W. 

47  00 

160  W. 

40  30 

155  E. 

52  45 

100  E. 

44  40 

100  W. 

44  00 

A  few  general  principles  will  now  be  given  which  should 
govern  the  navigator  of  the  South  Pacific.  For  informa- 
tion on  this  subject  we  are  indebted  to  Messrs.  Towson> 
Weddel,  Boulton,  Scoresby,  etc. 

From  the  1st  April  to  1st  October  floating  ice  is  hardly 
ever  found  to  the  northward  of  50°  S.,  and  is  rarely  met 
even  as  far  south  as  50°  or  53°  S.,  except  between  148°  and 
93°  W.  During  this  season  it  may  be  expected  between 
530  and  60°  S.,  from  158°  W.  to  cape  Horn. 
5  N 


66  ICEBERGS. 


From  the  1st  October  to  1st  April,  icebergs  are  more 
numerous,  stray  bergs  sometimes  drifting  as  far  to  the 
north  as  40°  S.,  though  they  are  rarely  observed  to  the 
northward  of  50°  S.  But  navigators  should  be  very  vigi- 
lant after  passing  50°,  as  there  is  very  little  space  between 
50°  and  60°  where  icebergs  have  not  been  observed.  They 
are  particularly  abundant  beyond  52°  S.,  and  from  the 
meridian  of  173°  W.  to  that  of  88°  W.  Many  are  also  found 
to  the  eastward  of  70°  W.,  and  to  the  southward  and  east- 
ward of  cape  Elorn. 

d  raeted£e£  The  icebergs  of  the  Pacific  generally  drift  toward  E.  by 
INT.,  with  a  speed  of  10  miles  per  day.  Bufe  to  the  eastward 
of  cape  Horn  they  drift  first  to  KE.,  then  change  their  direc- 
tion more  to  the  eastward  in  approaching  40°  S.  On  this 
parallel,  and  between  25°  and  15°  W.,  they  set  toward  E., 
rarely  advancing  more  than  1  mile  per  day.  Then  they 
bear  away  toward  ESE.  and  SE. 

icebergs  be-     Between  the  cape  of  Good  Hope  and  Australia  it  is  im- 

tween  the  cape  ot  .  *• 

Good  Hope  and  possible  to  state  the  parallel  on  which  icebergs  may  not  be 
encountered  by  a  vessel  making  passage  to  the  eastward  j 
one  year  icebergs  are  found  on  one  parallel,  the  next  on 
another. 

If,  however,  the  parallel  52°  S.  is  passed,  the  chances  of 
meeting  icebergs  are  undoubtedly  increased.  It  is  therefore 
best  to  keep  to  the  northward  of  51°  S. 

Between  70°  and  Icebergs  appear  to  be  more  numerous  between  70°  and 
8Qo  \v.  and  56°  and  58°  S.  than  farther  to  the  southward. 
This  statement  does  not,  however,  hold  true  for  the  region 
east  of  70°  W. 

^e  f°^owin&  si&ns  indicate  the  approach  of  an  iceberg  : 
A  peculiar  light,  known  as  u  ice-blink,"  which  is  sometimes 
seen  at  a  great  distance,  even  on  a  dark  night.  On  coming 
close  to  the  iceberg,  this  light  has  the  effect  of  a  white 
cloud  settling  over  the  rigging.  The  most  certain  indica- 
tion is  the  falling  temperature  of  the  water,  and  its  com- 
parison with  that  of  the  air  ;  it  is  therefore  important  to 
make  frequent  observations  of  the  temperature  of  the 
water.  This  fall  often  amounts  to  3°.5  and  even  5°.5. 

The  proximity  of  icebergs  is  also  known  by  the  noise  of 
the  waves  breaking  over  them  ;  this  is  sometimes  heard  at 
a  great  distance,  and  resembles  breakers  on  the  shore. 


ICEBERGS.  6  7 


With  fair  winds  it  is  best  to  pass  to  windward  of  large  Pass  to 
icebergs,  for  then  there  is  less  danger  of  encountering  thew 
detached  masses  of  ice,  which  always  drift  faster  to  leeward. 
These  small  icebergs  are  the  most  dangerous  ;  they  hardly 
show  above  the  water,  and  cannot  be  seen  when  the  sea  is 
rough  ;  they  are  often  very  deeply  submerged,  and  if  run 
into  will  cause  bad  leaks. 

The  "  ice-blink"  of  which  we  have  spoken  is,  as  a  rule,    ice-biinkswhea 

806D. 

observed  only  above  large  masses  of  ice,  which  are  more  or 
less  flat  and  covered  with  snow.  But  this  luminous  appear- 
ance does  not  show  above  icebergs  whose  surfaces  present 
a  rugged  appearance,  or  above  those  which  have  been  cap- 
sized. 
It  cannot  be  too  often  repeated  that  watchfulness  is  A  good  lookout 

necessary. 

necessary.  The  man  on  lookout  should  be  often  relieved. 
He  should  keep  his  eye  continually  on  the  black  line  of  the 
horizon  ahead,  and  if  he  discover  a  white  spot  or  even  a 
light  streak  on  the  horizon,  he  may  know  it  is  ice.  If  a 
good  watch  be  kept  in  this  manner  there  is  no  danger  of 
coming  upon  ice  unexpectedly.  It  is  also  well  to  have 
another  man  on  the  watch  for  small  icebergs,  which  are 
only  to  be  seen  at  short  distances. 

As  has  been  said  above,  icebergs  are  most  numerous  dur-  .  Numerous  dur- 
ing the  southern  summer.    This  is  fortunate,  as  the  nights  summer.801 
are  then  shorter.    Out  of  550  icebergs,  nearly  one-half  were 
seen  in  November,  December,  and  January,  while  there 
were  only  5  found  in  June  and  3  in  July.    One-fifth  of  the 
whole  number  of  icebergs  seen  in  a  year  were  observed  in 
December  alone.    There  are  more  from  January  to  April 
than  from  August  to  November;  thus  the  number  in  March 
and  April  is  to  the  number  in  September  and  October  as  5 
to  3. 

According  to  Scoresby,  the  fall  in  temperature  of  the  sea  Warnings. 
and  air  foretells  icebergs,  but  it  is  extremely  imprudent  to 
trust  to  this  warning.  It  is  best  to  rely  chiefly  on  the 
vigilance  of  those  whose  duty  it  is  to  keep  a  "  sharp  look- 
out." Have  your  yards  nicely  trimmed,  and  be  ready  at 
any  moment  to  go  about  or  haul  up  on  either  tack,  as  may 
be  necessary.  The  reader  should  also  refer  to  §  104,  where 
further  information  on  this  subject  will  be  found. 


PA.RT    II. 


OBSERVATIONS  ON  THE   PRINCIPAL  ROUTES  IN 
THE  PACIFIC  OCEAN. 


CHAPTER    I. 

ROUTES     FROM     SOUTH     TO     NORTH,     ON     THE     WESTERN 
COAST    OF    AMERICA. 

§   44.    IlOUTE    FROM    CAPE    HORN    OR    THE    STRAIT    OF 

MAGELLAN  TO  VALPARAISO. — In  the  Navigation  of  the 
South  Atlantic  it  was  stated  that  vessels  bound  to  Val- 
paraiso from  cape  Horn  should  not  cross  the  parallel  of 
50°  S.  farther  west  than  the  meridian  of  80°.  A  summary 
of  instructions  for  doubling  cape  Horn  was  also  given,  (p. 
186  to  194.)  Finally  in  a  paragraph  on  the  passage  of  the 
strait  of  Magellan,  (§  1C  of  the  same  work,)  it  was  stated 
that  it  is  preferable  to  enter  the  Pacific  by  cape  Pillar,  dur- 
ing the  southern  winter ;  while  during  the  southern  summer 
vessels  can  take  the  lateral  channel  and  come  out  by  the 
gulf  of  Penas. 

I.  EOUTES  AFTER  LEAVING  CAPE  HORN. — The  passage 
around  cape  Horn  is  usually  made  by  good  staunch  sailing- 
vessels,  or  vessels  with  auxiliary  steam  power.  The  in- 
tention is  generally  to  economize  coal  without  prolonging 
the  voyage.  They  cross  50°  S.  at  about  80°  W.,  that  is 
between  78°  and  82°  W.,  and  more  or  less  to  the  westward 
according  to  the  weather  and  winds  they  may  have  encoun- 
tered. After  having  doubled  the  cape,  and  while  making 
to  the  northward,  it  is  a  good  plan  to  make  the  westing  so 
as  to  cross  50°  S.  rather  to  the  westward  than  to  the  east- 
ward of  80°  W. ;  but  this  parallel  may  be  crossed  at  79°,  or 
even  78°,  though  it  is  not  desirable  to  do  so.  After  passing 
50°  S.,  keep  to  the  northward,  following  80°  W.,  as  nearly 
as  the  sea  and  dominant  winds  from  N W.  to  SW.  will  allow. 
Beyond  45°  S.  it  is  best  to  keep  between  the  meridian  78° 
10'  and  790  40'  W.  Cross  the  parallel  40°  S.,  near  78°  1C7  or 
78°  40'  W.,  then  continue  toward  the  north  till  you  reach 
37°  30'  or  37°  S.,  thence  make  your  easting  and  cross  35° 
S.,  between  74°  40'  and  75°  W  W.  From  this  point  you  can 
proceed  without  difficulty  toward  Valparaiso,  merely  mak- 
ing allowances  for  the  leeway  and  current,  which  usually 
set  to  the  northward  and  are  apt  to  cause  errors  in  the 
course. 


72 


ROUTES  AFTER  LEAVING   CAPE  HORN. 


Though  it  will  generally  be  found  easy  to  follow  this 
route,  as  above  described,  we  will  give  the  difficulties  to  be 
encountered  at  each  season  of  the  year,  and  the  course  it  is 
best  to  pursue  in  each  case. 

in  January.  In  January  it  is  advantageous  to  cross  50°  S.  a  little  to 
the  westward  of  79°  40'  W.,  as  winds  from  NW.  and  NNW. 
rarely  prevail  in  that  locality.  But  between  45°  and  40° 
S.  it  is  preferable  to  keep  to  the  eastward  of  that  meridian, 
where  the  winds  are  often  more  favorable.  Calms  and 
baffling  airs  are  frequent  during  this  month. 

in  February  In  February  it  is  still  more  important,  if  it  be  possible, 
to  cross  50°  S.  to  the  westward  of  79°  40'  W.  It  may  be 
generally  stated  that  vessels  will  make  this  passage  from 
cape  Horn  to  Valparaiso  much  more  rapidly  if  they  cross 
the  parallel  of  50°  S.  even  much  farther  to  the  westward. 
Thus  quick  passages  can  be  made  under  canvas  when  50°  S. 
is  crossed  at  80°  40'  W.  or  to  the  westward  of  that  meridian ; 
450  S.  at  between  80°  40'  and  81°  10'  W. ;  40°  S.  between 
79°  40'  and  80°  10'  W.  ;  then  35°  S.  at  about  74°  40'  W.  In 
crossing  the  parallels  at  these  points  do  not  hug  the  NW. 
wind  too  closely,  as  there  is  danger  of  being  driven  to  the 
eastward  of  the  advised  route.  If  the  wind  afterward  shift 
to  W.  and  SW.,  it  is  evident  that  you  would  not  volunta- 
rily lay  as  high  as  NW.  to  regain  the  points  of  crossing. 
You  should  merely  try  not  to  get  too  far  from  them. 

in  March.  In  March  the  best  route  is,   on  the  other  hand,  to  the 

eastward  of  79°  40'  W.;  it  will  therefore  be  sufficient  to  cross 
50°  S.  just  far  enough  to  the  westward  to  avoid  the  land, 
in  case  of  several  successive  squalls  from  the  W.  This 
point  should  be  left  to  the  discretion  of  the  captain :  a  sail- 
ing-vessel might  pass  near  78°  40'  or  78°  10'  W.,  while  a 
vessel  with  auxiliary  steam  power  would  find  no  difficulty 
in  crossing  at  77°  40'  or  77°  10'  W.  The  winds  are  gener- 
ally steady  and  favorable  ;  yet  there  are  always  chances  of 
winds  from  NW.;  in  case  the  wind  does  come  out  from 
NW.,  keep  on  the  port  tack  as  long  as  it  can  be  done  with 
prudence.  On  the  one  hand,  be  very  careful  not  to  get 
too  close  to  the  shore;  on  the  other,  remember  that  there  is 
more  chance  of  finding  favorable  winds  near  shore  than  out 
at  sea  in  the  neighborhood  of  80°  W. 

Thus  50°,  45°,  and  40°  S.  may  be  successively  crossed 
at  the  meridian  of  77°  10'  W. ;  the  rest  of  the  passage 


ROUTES  AFTER  LEAVING   CAPE  HORN. 


73 


is  easily  made,  crossing  35°  S.  at  about  75°  10'  or  74°  40' 
W.  Calms  and  light  airs  are  the  only  causes  of  detention 
north  of  the  35th  parallel. 

In  April  the  same  general  route,  given  for  the   whole    in  April 
year,  should  be  followed. 

We  would  merely  remark,  that  at  this  time,  between  50° 
and  35°  S.,  the  wind  prevails  more  from  NW.  than  during 
the  first  months  of  the  year.  This  should  therefore  be 
borne  in  mind,  to  profit  by  any  favorable  wind,  in  order  to 
keep  as  much  as  possible  to  the  westward  of  79°  40'  between 
50°  and  45°  S. ;  and  to  the  westward  of  78°  40'  between 
45°  and  40°  S.  With  this  precaution  it  is  possible  to  con- 
tinue on  the  port  tack  when  the  wind  comes  out  from  NW., 
cross  35o  S.  near  75°  40'  W.,  and  34°  S.  between  74°  10' 
and  74°  40'  W.  North  of  35°  S.,  on  nearing  Valparaiso, 
calms  are  less  frequent  than  earlier  in  the  year,  the  winds 
blowing  steadier  from  NE.  to,  N.  and  N W.  (Vide  §  21.) 

In  May,  as  in  February,  it  is  best  to  make  the  northing 
to  the  westward  of  79°  40'  W.,  when  the  winds  permit. 
May  is  not  a  bad  month  if  the  route  prescribed  for  Feb- 
ruary be  followed.  Near  Valparaiso  this  is  the  winter  sea- 
son, (vide  §  21.) 

In  June,  as  in  February  and  May,  it  is  advisable  to  cross 
50°  S.  as  far  as  possible  to  the  westward.  Between  50°  and 
45°  S.  the  winds  are  more  favorable  to  westward  than  to 
eastward  of  79°  40'  W.;  besides  it  is  best,  and  nearly  always 
possible,  to  profit  by  all  the  fair  winds,  in  order  to  cross 
45°  S.,  and  particularly  40°  S.  near  80°  40'  W.  This  advice 
is  considered  important,  for  in  June  the  winds  very  often 
blow  from  NNE.  to  NNW.  between  40°  S.  and  Valparaiso. 
A  vessel  will  not  really  be  in  a  very  good  position  to  fetch 
this  port  under  sail  if  she  steer  to  the  northward  of  NE. 

It  is  well  known  that  W.  and  SW.  winds  are  to  be  found 
between  40°  S.  and  Valparaiso,  and  that  in  all  cases  the 
current  is  favorable.  In  §  21  will  be  found  a  description  of 
the  system  of  the  winds  in  this  region. 

In  July  and  August  the  same  observations  hold  true. 
The  only  remark  to  make  is,  that  during  August  there  is 
no  necessity  of  crossing  50°  S.  very  far  to  the  westward,  as 
the  wind  is  generally  favorable,  between  50°  and  45°  S.,  to 
both  the  eastward  and  westward  of  79°  40'  W.  But  it  is 
prudent,  and  always  possible,  to  cut  45°  S.  between  79°  40' 


In  May 


In  Jane. 


In  July  and 

August. 


74  ROUTES  AFTER  LEAVING  CAPE  HORN. 

and  80°  40'  W.;  and  afterward  40°  S.  at  the  same  longitude 
as  bas  been  stated  for  June. 

in  September.  in  September  it  is  easier  to  make  the  passage— between 
50°  and  45°  S. — by  sailing  to  the  westward  of  79°  40'  W., 
as  here  the  winds  prevail  from  W.  and  SSW.,  whereas  to 
the  eastward  of  this  meridian  they  are  from  ^W.  After 
passing  45°  S.  the  general  route,  given  for  the  whole  year, 
may  be  followed  without  difficulty.  40°  S.  should  be  crossed 
between  77°  10'  and  79°  10'  W.  ;  thence  the  winds  are  fair 
and  steady. 

in  October.  jn  October,  as  in  September,  it  will  be  more  advantageous 
to  cross  50°  S.  to  the  westward  of  79°  40'  W.  Settled  and 
favorable  breezes  will  nearly  always  be  found  in  crossing 
45°  S.  between  80°  10'  and  81°  10'  W. ;  40°  S.  at  79°  40'  W.  ; 
and  350  S.  at  74°  40'  W. 

in  November.  jn  November  the  passage  is  slow  and  tedious.  The  gen- 
eral remarks  which  are  given  on  the  proper  route  to  be 
followed  during  the  wbole  year,  apply  particularly  to  this 
month.  It  is  only  to  ba  noted  that  at  this  time  the 
NW.  winds  are  frequent  from  the  parallel  50°  to  35°,  and 
both  to  the  E.  and  W.  of  79°  40'  W.  Still  it  is  better  to 
cross  50°  S.  to  the  westward  of  79°  40'  W.  when  it  can 
possibly  be  done.  As  a  general  rule  advantage  should  be 
taken  of  every  favorable  slant  in  the  wind  that  may  help 
the  vessel  to  the  northward  and  westivard,  for  then  a  long 
stretch  may  be  taken  on  the  port  tack  when  the  wind  comes 
out  from  NW.  If  possible  cross  40°  S.  at  about  78°  40'  W., 
as  the  wind  is  better  to  the  eastward  of  79°  40',  between 
40°  and  35°  S.  Beyond  this  point  the  voyage  will  be  easily 
made. 

in  December.  In  December  the  same  observations  as  for  November. 
The  winds  will  be  found  favorable  and  from  W.,  SW.,  and 
S.,  after  leaving  40°  S.,  if  that  parallel  be  crossed  to  the 
eastward  of  79°  40'  W.,  or  even  at  78°  40'  or  78°  10'  W. 

II.  ROUTES  AFTER  LEAVING  THE  STRAIT  OF  MAGELLAN. 

— The  route  through  the  strait  of  Magellan  is  always  taken 
by  steamers,  or  auxiliary-steam  vessels,  when  the  con- 
sumption of  coal  is  a  secondary  consideration,  (vide  The 
Navigation  of  the  South  Atlantic,  pages  194  to  198.)  Conse- 
quently the  passage  from  cape  Pillar,  or  the  gulf  of  Peiias, 
to  Valparaiso,  presents  no  serious  difficulty. 

Steamers  can  make  their  northing,  merely  taking  care  to 


ROUTES  AFTER  LEAVING  MAGELLAN  STRAIT.  75 

keep  at  a  safe  distance  from  land,  that  they  may  not  be 
driven  ashore  in  case  of  bad  weather.  As  for  vessels  with 
auxiliary  steam-power,  they  first  make  to  the  westward, 
steering  on  a  WNW.  or  NW.  course,  either  under  steam 
or  sail,  if  the  winds  allow.  No  other  advice  need  be  given 
for  the  beginning  of  this  route,  except  to  profit  as  much  as 
possible  by  every  favorable  wind,  so  as  to  get  away  from 
the  coast,  when  the  fires  may  be  hauled  and  the  voyage 
continued  under  sail.  The  more  the  coast  is  left,  (as  far  as 
79°  40',  if  it  be  possible,)  the  more  chance  there  is  of  mak- 
ing a  quick  passage  to  the  northward. 

When  vessels  with  auxiliary  steam-power,  leaving  cape 
Pillar,  shall  have  gone  far  enough  to  the  westward  and 
made  sail,  their  route  will  not  differ  greatly  from  that  of 
sailing-ships  coining  from  cape  Horn.  This  route,  however, 
will  be  2  or  3  degrees  more  to  the  eastward,  and  will  be 
made  under  less  favorable  circumstances,  the  wind  being 
more  ahead,  as  may  be  seen  by  referring  to  the  observations 
at  the  beginning  of  the  present  paragraph.  This  observa- 
tion is  still  more  applicable  to  vessels,  with  both  steam  and 
sail  power,  entering  the  Pacific  by  the  gulf  of  Penas,  as 
their  route  is  still  farther  to  the  eastward,  and  as  it  is  ad- 
vantageous, during  nearly  every  month  of  the  year,  to  keep 
well  to  the  westieard  after  passing  cape  Horn  under  sail. 

The  most  prevalent  winds,  and  those  which  are  most  to 
be  feared  as  head- winds,  come  from  NNW.  and  NW.  It  is 
therefore  advisable  to  take  advantage  of  every  favorable 
breeze,  after  leaving  the  strait  of  Magellan,  in  order  to 
make  to  the  westward  and  to  the  northward.  If  this  be 
done,  a  long  stretch  can  afterward  be  made  on  the  port  tack 
without  fear  when  the  wind  comes  out  from  NW.  And 
we  repeat,  there  will  be  no  serious  difficulty — to  a  ship  that 
can,  if  it  become  necessary,  start  ahead  under  steam  and 
fore-and-aft  sail — in  taking  the  NNW.  wind  four  points  on 
the  bow.  The  use  of  sail  and  steam  combined  has  simplified 
all  these  routes,  and  there  are  no  special  points  of  crossing 
to  be  recommended  for  auxiliary  steamers. 

As  an  illustration  of  a  voyage  between  cape  Pillar  and 
Valparaiso,  we  will  first  give  an  extract  from  the  Hydro- 
graphic  Annals,  (vol.  12,  p.  322.)  This  extract  is  compiled 
from  the  log  of  the  Rattlesnake,  captain  Henry  Trollope: 

"The  Rattlesnake  made  cape  Virgins  the  10th  of  May, 


7<>  LOG   OF   THE   RATTLESNAKE. 

1853,  and  the  same  clay  was  taken  in  tow  by  the  steamer 
Vixen.  They  anchored  seven  times  in  eight  days,  and  at 
noon  on  the  18th  the  tow-lines  were  cast  off,  at  20  miles  to 
the  westward  of  cape  Pillar. 

"  The  barometer  rose  until  ten  o'clock  in  the  morning, 
when  it  commenced  to  fall  very  rapidly.  The  wind  sprang 
up ;  and  the  Rattlesnake  made  good  way  under  royals  and 
port  studding-sails,  the  wind  being  from  eastward. 

"  Fitz-Eoy  recommends  to  run  as  far  as  79°  40'  W.,  if  you 
are  bound  to  the  northward;  our  voyage  proved  him  right. 
The  wind,  which  would  have  been  ahead  if  we  had  not 
shaped  our  course  as  we  did,  came  out  favorable.  It  re- 
mained steady  from  the  eastward  until  the  19th ;  but  the 
weather  was  overcast,  and  the  barometer  fell  lin.34  during 
the  eighteen  hours  included  between  the  18th  at  6  p.  m.  and 
noon  of  the  19th.  About  one  o'clock  in  the  afternoon,  after 
a  calm  lasting  about  one  hour,  and  during  a  furious  squall 
from  NE.  and  ENE.,  the  wind  jumped  around  suddenly  to 
£TW.,  and  blew  from  this  direction  with  extraordinary  vio- 
lence. We  la#-to  on  the  starboard  tack  under  the  main 
topsail  and  storm-stay-sail.  The  barometer  commenced  to 
rise  an  hour  after  the  commencement  of  the  squall,  and  this 
was  the  time  of  its  greatest  strength;  the  wind,  however, 
continued  to  be  violent  for  10  or  12  hours. 

"  Afterward  we  had  a  series  of  smaller  squalls  with  a  heavy 
sea,  coming  especially  from  W.  and  WNW.  As  we  were 
well  off  shore,  the  wind  was  favorable  and  allowed  us  to 
steer  N.,  without  being  set  to  the  eastward  of  that  point, 
until  we  struck  36°  S.  and  74°  40'  W.  During  all  this 
time  we  encountered  squalls  and  violent  gusts. 

"  In  approaching  Valparaiso  we  nearly  ran  past  the  har- 
bor, though  we  hove  to  when  we  judged  we  were  10  or  12 
miles  to  the  southward  of  point  Curaumilla." 

The  following  is  an  account  of  a  voyage  from  cape  Pillar 
to  Valparaiso,  made  in  1860  by  the  Duguay  Trouin,  (sail 
and  steam  power,)  the  flag-ship  of  Rear-Admiral  Larrieu, 
commanding  the  Pacific  Squadron,  (Ann.  Hyd.,  vol.  18  :) 

"  We  doubled  Tamar  on  the  20th  March,  about  1.30  p.  m., 
and  made  little  way  during  the  rest  of  the  day,  the  weather 
being  alternately  clear  and  foggy.  About  8.30  p.  m.,  the 
wind  having  shifted,  we  were  in  very  good  position  for 


VOYAGE  OF  THE  DUGUAY  TROUIN.  11 

leaving  the  strait,  being  from  3  to  4  miles  from  Westmin- 
ster Ilall,  bearing  SW.  At  8.30  p.  m.  the  course  was  set  at 
WSW.,  so  as  to  pass  through  mid-channel,  but  at  9  o'clock, 
the  wind  having  hauled  ahead,  it  was  changed  to  WSW. 
£  W.,  the  fore-and-aft  sails  being  still  carried.  About  10.30 
we  sighted  cape  Pillar,  bearing  SS  W.,  and  very  close  aboard ; 
this  gave  us  a  little  uneasiness,  as  the  wind  had  freshened, 
and  we  were  already  as  close  to  the  wind  as  we  could  lie 
with  safety.  Fires  were  lighted  under  another  boiler,  but 
we  doubled  the  cape  rapidly,  and  at  midnight  were  out  of 
all  danger,  having  passed  the  meridian  of  the  Judges  and 
Apostles,  which  lie  to  WSW.  of  cape  Pillar.  Experienced 
strong  head-winds  and  sea  till  we  reached  the  parallel  of 
cape  Tres  Montes.  Having  doubled  cape  Pillar,  and  wish- 
ing to  make  westing,  I  was  obliged  to  steer  to  the  south- 
ward on  account  of  the  wind,  which  varied  from  NNW.  to  W. 

"At  noon  on  the  2Gth  March,  we  were  at  50°28/  S.  and  83° 
55'  W.  On  the  evening  of  the  2Gth,  the  wind  having  shifted 
to  WSW.,  we  were  able  to  take  the  port  or  northerly  tack, 
but  were  compelled  to  lie-to  all  night  under  fore-and-aft- 
sail,  as  the  wind  was  violent  and  the  sea  carried  away  our 
starboard  quarter-boat.  The  Duguay  Trouin  labored 
greatly,  notwithstanding  her  excellent  qualities.  The  wind 
having  moderated  on  the  morning  of  the  27th,  I  set  the 
maintop  sail  close  reefed.  After  this  we  kept  on  a  north- 
erly course,  the  winds  varying  from  NW.  to  SW.  and  S., 
with  a  regular  barometer.  As  the  barometer  fell  the  wind 
remained  steady  from  NW.  and  WNW.,  and  I  kept  on  the 
starboard  tack;  when  it  died  away,  I  went  about,  the  wind 
soon  springing  up  from  S.,  and  blowing  with  extreme  vio- 
lence. About  8  o'clock  on  the  evening  of  the  31st  March, 
being  at  48°  23'  S.,  we  could  only  scud  under  a  close-reefed 
maintop  sail  and  a  double-reefed  foresail ;  about  this  time 
the  barometer  fell  very  rapidly  to  28in.54. 

"We  could  not  keep  on  our  course,  as  our  'latteen'  sails 
were  not  able  to  stand  the  heavy  squalls ;  but,  luckily, 
these  violent  squalls  did  not  last  long,  moderating  as  they 
shifted  toward  SW.  The  weather  became  better  after  the 
1st  April,  and  we  arrived  at  Valparaiso  on  the  morning  of 
the  7th." 

Volume  22,  "Annales  Hydrograpliiques?  contains  the  fol- 
lowing observations  on  the  voyage  from  cape  Pillar  to  Val- 


78  LOG   OF   THE   ASSAS. 

paraiso :  "  After  a  vessel  has  reached  72°  40'  or  77°  40 
W.,*  she  can  steer  rapidly  to  the  N.  The  winds  are  here 
generally  from  SW.;  they  are  interrupted,  according  to  the 
season,  by  calms  and  northeasterly  gales.  The  weather  be- 
comes better  when  the  wind  hauls  to  S. ;  it  shifts  ordinarily 
from  right  to  left.  After  a  violent  squall  from  SE.  the  wind 
may  be  expected  to  return  to  S.,  and  haul  again  to  SW., 
with  better  weather ;  thus  following  the  laws  of  cyclones. 
The  passage  from  cape  Pillar  to  Valparaiso  is  sometimes 
made  in  6  or  7  days.  The  mean  length  of  the  passage  is 
about  12  days." 

We  will  also  quote  an  abstract  from  the  log  of  the  Assets, 
a  screw-corvette,  commanded  by  Captain  DeKergist,  (Ann. 
Hydr.,  vol.  26 :) 

"  Leaving  cape  Pillar  on  the  9th  July,  I  kept  to  the  west- 
ward, under  steam,  until  the  morning  of  the  next  day  at 
7.30  o'clock.  Having  made  105  miles,  the  fires  were  hauled. 
During  the  night  the  breeze  had  freshened  and  hauled  to 
SW.  and  WSW.  I  then  came-to  on  the  port  tack,  with  2 
reefs  in  the  topsails,  and  at  noon  found  a  current  of  16 
miles,  setting  S.  60°  B.  The  weather  was  bad  during  the 
following  night,  the  wind  strong  from  WJSTW. ;  went  about 
on  the  starboard  tack,  to  make  to  the  westward  as  far  as 
possible.  On  the  llth  the  barometer  fell  rapidly,  and  we 
lay-to  under  the  main-topsail.  On  the  evening  of  the  12th 
ship  rolled  35°  to  leeward  and  12°  to  windward.  The 
barometer,  already  indicating  a  storm,  went  still  lower,  and 
I  decided  to  light  one  fire  to  keep  the  ship  from  being 
driven  to  leeward.  We  kept  on  in  this  manner  until  the 
14th,  the  wind  varying  from  NW.  to  WNW.  On  the  14th 
July  the  barometer  stood  at  28in.03.  After  a  calm  the  wind 
slowly  changed  to  SW.  An  observation  obtained  on  the 
14th  put  us  48'  more  to  the  northward  and  91'  more  to  the 
westward  than  the  dead-reckoning  for  the  four  preceding 
days.  The  engine,  which  had  been  in  motion  for  forty 
hours,  had  assisted  the  ship  more  than  I  had  presumed. 
The  squalls  were  not,  however,  over ;  those  from  the  N W. 
having  died  away,  the  SW.  ones  began,  shifting  to  WSW. 
and  W.  These  soon  raised  a  heavy  sea,  which  made  the 

*  This  is  probably  an  error,  and  should  read,  77°  40'  or  82°  40'  W.,  as 
the  longitude  of  cape  Pillar  is  about  74°  40'  W. 


PASSAGE  OF  THE  VENUS.  79 

vessel  labor  extremely  ami  deadened  her  way,  as  we  bad  to 
take  it  abeam.  At  daylight  on  the  15th,  the  sea  having 
moderated,  I  bore  up ;  the  ship  rolled  35°  to  one  side  and 
28°  to  the  other. 

"On  the  16th,  the  wind  being  from  NW.  and  E".,  hauled  up  * 
on  the  starboard  tack.  During  the  night  of  the  Kith  and  17th 
the  barometer  read:  At  midnight  28in.74;  at  1  a.  m.  28iu.54; 
at  3  a.  in.  28in.31 ;  at  5  a.  m.  28iQ.27.  The  wind  suddenly 
failed,  and  we  had  scarcely  time  to  set  enough  canvas  to 
keep  the  ship  steady  against  the  broken  sea,  when  a  mod- 
erate breeze  set  in  from  S.,  freshening  by  degrees,  and  haul- 
ing to  SW.  After  this  the  weather  improved,  and  on  the 
21st  we  were  able  to  cast  loose  the  guns,  and  dry  tbe  deck 
under  the  carriages.  On  the  evening  of  the  23d  we  thought 
we  sighted  land  at  Bucalemo,  and  on  the  morning  of  the 
24th  made  Valparaiso  light,  after  a  15  days'  passage  from 
cape  Pillar." 

Passage  of  the  Venus — Captain  Koy — from  cape  Pillar  to 
Valparaiso : 

"We  passed  through  the  straits  in  four  days  and  six 
hours.  The  thermometer  only  once  fell  as  low  as  44°.5. 
We  had  splendid  weather  for  a  landfall  at  cape  Virgins, 
and  very  little  wind  in  the  strait.  The  fog  was  quite  thick 
and  rendered  it  difficult  for  us  to  see  the  land  at  the  western 
end  of  the  strait;  but  this  was  compensated  for  by  a  smooth 
sea  and  a  light  breeze  from  N.  and  NW.,  which  lasted  until 
the  following  day,  enabling  us  to  make  60  miles  to  west- 
ward, under  steam.  On  the  13th  February,  at  6.30  p.  m., 
the  breeze  came  out  from  WJS  W. ;  we  then  hauled  fires  and 
made  sail.  On  the  15th  the  wind  hauled  to  NW.  and  K"., 
and  increased,  obliging  us  to  lie  to.  On  the  16th  the  wind 
fell  a  little,  returning  toward  WNW.  and  W.,  from  which 
points  it  blew  freshly,  until  the  19th,  when  it  shifted  to 
SW.  and  SSW.,  blowing  a  gale  with  a  heavy  sea,  but  giving 
us  good  way.  On  the  21st,  being  at  41°  S.,  81°  40'  W.,  the 
barometer,  which  had  fallen  to  29in.37  with  the  wind  from 
K,  rose  to  30in.47  with  winds  from  SW. ;  the  wind  then 
abated  and  shifted  to  SSB.  and  SB.,  from  which  points  it 
blew  with  great  strength  the  following  day.  It  gradually 
diminished  until  the  morning  of  the  24th,  when  it  died 
away  altogether,  after  having  brought  us  90  miles  from 
point  Coronilla.  Lighted  fires  and  steamed.  The  horizon 


80  CRUISE   OF   THE  BELLIQUEUSE. 

was  very  foggy,  and,  contrary  to  my  expectation,  we  did  not, 
sight  land  before  dark.  At  10  p.  m.  we  sighted  Valparaiso, 
where  we  dropped  anchor  on  the  25th  February,  at  9  a.  m. 
In  this  passage  we  were  fortunate  enough  to  lose  nothing 
*in  latitude  after  leaving  cape  Pillar,  and  were  able  to  make 
our  westing  so  as  to  cross  50°  S.  at  78°  W.,  after  which 
we  bore  up  toward  our  destination.'7 

We  will  conclude  with  the  account  of  the  cruise  of  the 
iron-clad  Belliqueuse,  flag-ship  of  Admiral  Penhoat,  (Ann. 
Hydr.,  vol.  30 :) 

"  After  doubling  cape  Pillar,  (a  sharp-pointed  sugar-loaf, 
united  to  the  land  by  a  low  isthmus,)  on  the  6th  of  March, 
we  stood  on  our  course  to  the  westward.  My  intention  had 
been  to  pursue  this  route  to  80°  W.,  but  about  2  a.  m.  the 
breeze  which  had  set  in  from  W.  at  midnight,  freshened 
considerably,  and,  the  sea  increasing,  we  steamed  only  about 
3  knots.  The  wind  then  shifting  to  WSW.,  the  fires  were 
banked,  and  we  hauled  up  on  the  port  tack,  on  a  JS"W.  by 
N.  course. 

"  On  the  7th  of  March  we  were  at  50°  S.  and  78°  03'  W. 
The  breeze  continued  to  freshen,  the  gusts  became  heavier 
and  more  frequent,  soon  blowing  a  gale.  We  lay  to  under 
two  close-reefed  topsails,  two  reefs  in  the  fore  trysail,  and 
the  storm  stay-sail. 

"On  the  evening  of  the  8th  the  wind  moderated,  and 
finally  died  away,  though  the  sea  still  ran  very  high.  The 
wind  soon  came  out  strong  from  NNW.  ;  we  then  went 
about  on  the  starboard  or  west  tack,  with  two  reefs  in  the 
topsails.  About  3  a.  m.  it  blew  a  violent  squall  from  NW. 
to  SW. ;  but  shortly  after  the  wind  died  away,  and  the 
weather  improved. 

During  these  gusts  we  had  been  carried  considerably  to 
the  eastward,  but  had  gained  in  latitude.  In  the  evening 
we  were  60  miles  west  of  the  middle  of  Campana  island, 
with  a  light  breeze  from  SW.,  but  the  sea  still  so  rough 
that  the  vessel  could  make  BO  headway  under  sail.  The 
fires  were  lighted,  and  we  continued  on  our  course  to 
the  west.  On  the  llth  of  March  a  good  breeze  set  in 
from  SW.,  and  the  sea  became  considerably  smoother. 
Hauled  fires  and  made  sail.  The  same  day  we  crossed  45° 
S.  at  78°  40'  W. ;  from  this  point  we  had  favorable  breezes 
from  SW.,  shifting  to  S.  and  SE.  On  the  evening  of  the 


FROM  CAPE   HORN   TO   THE   u  INTERMEDIATE  PORTS." 


81 


15th  we  were  45  miles  from  Valparaiso,  where  we  anchored 
the  17th  of  March." 

§  45.  EOUTE  FROM  CAPE  HORN  OR  THE  STRAIT  OF  MA- 
GELLAN TO  THE  "  INTERMEDIATE  PORTS  "  OF  COQUIMBO, 

MEXILLONES,  ISLAY,  IQUIQUE,  AND  ARICA. — The  route  to 
be  followed  to  reach  these  ports  is  nearly  the  same  as  that 
prescribed  for  making  Valparaiso,  (vide  §  44.)  The  vessel 
should  be  steered  so  as  to  make  land  about  28°  or  30°  S., 
(unless  the  destination  be  Coquimbo ;)  thence  follow  the 
coast  with  a  steady  wind  from  S.  and  SE.,  (vide  §  22,)  keep- 
ing between  5  and  15  miles  from  shore.  The  position  can 
always  be  obtained  by  sighting  the  land,  and  a  good  land- 
fall can  be  made,  which  the  winds  and  currents  might  pre- 
vent if  the  off  shore  were  followed. 

If  it  is  not  deemed  advisable  to  approach  the  land  so  far  to 
the  southward  of  the  destination,  steer  for  the  island  of  Juan 
Fernandez.  Here  the  chronometers  can  be  corrected,  and 
the  main  land  afterward  approached  with  greater  assurance. 

§  46.  ROUTE  FROM  CAPE  HORN  OR  THE  STRAIT  OF  MA- 
GELLAN TO  CALLAO.— Ships  bound  to  Callao,  from  cape 
Horn  or  the  strait  of  Magellan,  will  first  steer  as  if  they 
were  going  to  Valparaiso.  Their  route  will  only  be  differ- 
ent after  leaving  about  40°  S. ;  from  this  parallel  they  will, 
if  possible,  steer  a  little  more  to  the  northward.  We  will, 
however,  give  a  few  observations,  relative  to  this  passage, 
for  each  season  of  the  year;  these  will  complete  those 
given  in  §  44,  to  which  the  reader  should  first  refer.  In  in  January. 
January,  after  having  crossed  50°  S.  at  79°  40'  W.,  or  even 
a  little  to  the  westward  of  that  meridian,  if  possible,  ships 
coming  from  cape  Horn  should  shape  their  course  so  as  to 
cut  45°  S.  at  79°  40'.  Between  45°  and  40°  S.  it  is  prefer- 
able to  keep  to  the  eastward  of  80°  W.,  where  the  winds 
would  appear  to  be  steadier  and  more  favorable  than  far- 
ther to  the  westward.  Cross  40«  S.  at  77°  40'  W.,  and 
make  the  northing  from  40°  to  30°  S.,  between  77°  and  78° 
W.,  as  the  winds  near  those  meridians  are  more  favorable. 
A  light  SSW.  to  SSE.  wind  will  probably  be  found  near 
30°  S.  and  77°  W.,  which  will  shift  to  SE.  beyond  25°  S. ; 
thence  the  passage  to  Callao  will  be  easily  accomplished. 

In  February,  after  having  crossed  40°  S.  near  79°  40'  W.,    In  February, 
there  is  no  better  rule  than  to  sail  immediately  to  the  north- 
ward.    In  case  winds  blow  from  N.  or  NW.,  which  rarely 
GN 


82 


ROUTE   FROM  CAPE   HORN  TO   CALLAO. 


happens,  keep  the  sails  full.  The  wind  is  sure  to  shift  soon 
to  its  usual  quarter,  WS W.  and  SW.  Between  40°  and  35° 
S.  the  wind  is  more  favorable  and  steadier  east  of  80°  W. 
than  to  the  westward  of  this  meridian  ;  the  reverse  is  the 
case  between  35°  and  30°  S.  Beyond  30°  S.  the  wind  will 
always  be  favorable.  The  30th  parallel  should  be  crossed 
between  78°  and  80°  W. 

in  March.  In  March,  beyond  40°  S.  and  78°  W  or  78°  40'  W.,  the 

winds  will  be  generally  favorable,  though  as  far  as  30°  S. 
they  frequently  blow  from  NW.  Make  as  much  northing 
as  possible  without  hugging  the  wind  too  closely,  and  keep 
between  76°  and  80°  W. 

When  there  are  leading  winds  it  is  well  to  keep  as  close 
as  possible  to  the  meridians  79°  and  80°,  so  as  to  prolong  the 
port  tack  in  case  of  a  series  of  winds  from  NW.  or  JSTNW. 

It  is  also  important  not  to  cross  30°  S.  to  the  westward 
of  80°  W. ;  this  parallel  should  be  crossed  between  77°  and 
80°  W.  The  winds  will  be  constantly  favorable  from  this 
point  to  Callao. 

in  April.  In  April,  after  having  reached  35°  S.,  near  76°  W.,  (vide 

§  447)  steer  to  the  northward.  The  winds  will  be  generally 
favorable,  though  frequently  from  NNE.  to  NNW.  It  is  ad- 
vantageous to  cross  3Qo  g.?  between  73°  10'  and  74°  40'  W. 
From  this  point  steer  so  as  to  cross  25°  S.  at  74°  W. ;  the 
winds  are  here  nearly  always  steady  between  SSE.and  SSW.; 
thence  the  winds  are  favorable.  Though  this  route  is  more 
easterly  than  those  for  the  preceding  months,  still  it  is  ad- 
visable to  follow  it,  as  NW.  winds  are  common  between  the 
parallels  30°  and  25°,  and  west  of  75°  W.  This  unfavorable 
direction  of  the  wind  is  even  more  noticeable  farther  to  the 
westward. 

in  May.  In  May,  if  it  is  possible,  cross  40°  S.  between  78°  W  and 

79°  40'  W,  From  40°  to  30°  S.,  the  winds  usually  vary  from 
NNE.  to  NW.  and  WNW.,  occasionally  interrupted  by 
winds  from  SW. 

Unfavorable  northerly  winds  are  still  more  frequent,  and 
the  breeze  generally  less  steady  to  westward  of  80°  W.  It 
is  therefore  well  to  keep  between  78°  and  80°  W.  in  mak- 
ing to  the  northward,  and  to  choose  that  tack  which  will 
••-f1  •"  help  most  to  run  down  the  latitude.  After  having  crossed 
30°  S.  near  79°  W.,  the  dominant  winds  are  from  SB.;  they 
will  become  steadier  as  the  vessel  makes  to  the  northward, 


11OUTE  FKOM  CAPE  HORN   TO   CALLAO. 


83 


though  there  is  always  a  chance  of  finding  a  breeze  from 
NNE.  to  NW.  as  far  as  20°  S.  This  mouth  corresponds  to 
the  beginning  of  the  winter  season,  (vide  §  21.) 

In  June,  40°  S.  should  be  crossed  to  westward  of  80°  W.,  In  June- 
if  possible  at  81°  or  82°  W.  The  parallel  of  35°  should  be. 
crossed  if  it  can  be  done  between  80°  and  83°  W. ;  here  the 
winds  blow  nearly  as  often  from  N.  and  NNW.  as  from  SW. 
To  the  eastward  of  80°  W.,  the  chances  are  not  so  good. 
Beyond  35°  S.  the  winds  are  generally  favorable  to  30°  S., 
which  you  should  try  to  cross  between  78°  10'  and  80°  10' 
W.  Afterward  continue  to  steer  to  the  northward,  keeping 
to  eastward  of  80°  W.j^the  winds  will  be  throughout  favor- 
able. 

In  July,  cross  40°  S.  and  35°  S.  between  80°  and  82°  W.;  in  July. 
30°  S.  between  78°  and  80°  W.,  and  25°  S.  between  77° 
and  80°  W.,  taking  care,  however,  not  to  go  farther  to  the 
westward.  These  crossings,  or  rather  this  large  belt,  would 
seem  to  be  the  most  favorable  for  vessels  making  passage 
to  the  northward  under  sail.  However,  N.  and  NW.  winds 
are  always  to  be  expected  at  this  season,  and  often  keep 
vessels  jammed  on  the  wind  until  they  have  passed  25°  S. 

August  is  also  an  unfavorable  mouth;  the  following  cross-  in  August, 
ings  are,  however,  the  best:  40°  S.  between  80°  and  82° 
W. ;  35°,  30°,  and  25°  S.,  crossed  successively  between  77° 
and  80°  W.  Between  40°  and  35°  S.  there  is  apt  to  be  a 
series  of  winds  from  NNE.  to  NW.,  while  southerly  winds 
prevail  between  35°  and  25°  S.  Beyond  25°  S.  the  winds 
are  generally  favorable. 

In  September,  make  as  much  northing  as  possible  be-  in  September. 
tween  40°  and  30°  S.,  keeping,  as  much  as  circumstances 
will  allow,  between  77°  and  79°  W.  The  winds  often  blow 
from  SW.,  but  there  will  sometimes  be  a  series  of  NW. 
winds,  though  they  are  less  common  than  during  the  pre- 
ceding months.  Beyond  30°  S.  the  wind  is  favorable,  and 
from  S.  to  SE.  *  , 

In  October,  cross  40°  S.  near  79°  40'  W.  if  possible,  (vide  in  October. 
§44.)  After  passing  this  parallel,  make  to  the  northward, 
keeping  between  79°  and  82°  W.  In  this  part  of  the  route 
the  winds  are  almost  always  favorable,  varying  generally 
from  WN  W.  to  S  W.,  S.,  and  SE.  Cross  30°  S.  at  about  80° 
W.j  thence  the  winds  predominate  from  S.  to  SE. 


84  ROUTE  FROM  CAPE  HORN  TO  PANAMA. 

in  November.  In  November,  it  will  be  found  .better  to  cross  4(P  S.  east 
of  80°  W.,  as  the  winds  are  here  a  trifle  better  than  to  the 
west  of  this  meridian  :  besides,  farther  to  northward  the 
NW.  winds  become  rarer,  and  are  inclined  to  shift  to  SW., 
•  S.,  and  SE.  After  crossing  30°  S.,  between  77°  and  80°  W., 
southerly  and  southeasterly  winds  predominate. 

in  December.  In  December,  the  same  route  is  advisable,  with  this  dif- 
ference, that  it  is  still  more  important  to  cross  40°  S.  east 
of  8Qo  \y.,  between  78°  and  80°  W.,  for  example,  You  will 
generally  find  favorable  winds  from  some  point  between 
WSW.  and  S.  NW.  winds  are  rare.  The  chances  are  even 
more  favorable  north  of  the  parallel  35°;  here  the  wind  fre- 
quently blows  from  SS W.  to  S.  and  SSE.  Beyond  30°  S., 
which  should  be  crossed  between  77°  and  78°  W.,  steady  S. 
and  SE.  winds  prevail. 

§  47.   EOUTE   FROM  CAPE   HORN   OR    FROM  THE    STRAIT 

OF  MAGELLAN  TO  PAYTA  AND  GUAYAQUIL. — The  in- 
structions given  in  paragraphs  44  and  46  should  be  followed. 
SE.  trades  are  met  at  30°  S.;  afterward  steer  directly  for 
the  port,  with  favorable  winds;  or  sight  "Lobos  de 
Afuera'7  and  point  Aguja,  afterward  passing  close  to  cape 
Blanco  if  the  destination  be  Guayaquil.  Additional  in- 
structions will  be  found  in  §  56. 

§  48.  EOUTE  FROM  CAPE  HORN  OR  THE  STRAIT  OF 
MAGELLAN  TO  PANAMA. — The  observations  given  in  para- 
graphs 44  and  46  are  applicable  as  far  as  30°  S.  Here 
steady  trades  will  be  encountered  from  S.  and  SE.  The 
route  then  passes  about  30  or  40  miles  from  point  Aguja 
and  cape  Blanco.  Thence  head  to  the  northward,  with 
leading  winds,  so  as  to  make  cape  San  Francisco  if  need  be. 
In  this  neighborhood  the  land  is  high,  bluff,  and  covered 
with  large  trees ;  the  sea-breeze  blowing  from  S.,  the  land- 
breeze  from  SSE.  To  the  southward  of  the  line,  say  5°  S. 
of  the  equator,  the  winds  are  nearly  always  favorable ; 
still,  be  on  the  watch  for  northwesterly  winds,  as  they 
sometimes  blow  from  February  to  June.  During  these 
months  it  is  advisable  to  pass  about  100  or  150  miles  from 
cape  Blanco,  so  as  to  be  able  to  make  a  good  stretch  on  the 
port  tack :  rap  full  if  you  happen  to  have  a  NW.  wind. 
When  the  wind  blows  from  NNE.  or  NE.,  which,  however, 
seldom  happens  except  in  May,  keep  well  full  on  the  starboard 
tack.  North  of  the  line  the  winds  are  generally  favorable, 


ROUTE  FROM  CAPE  HORN  TO  MAZATLAN.  85 

except  in  January,  February,  and  March,  when  they  fre- 
quently blow  from  the  northward,  (vide  §  23.) 

For  full  directions  on  the  latter  part  of  this  voyage,  vide 
§  54. 

§  49.  ROUTE  FROM  CAPE  HORN  OR  THE  STRAIT  OF 
MAGELLAN  TO  ACAPULCO,  SAN  BLAS,  AND  MAZATLAN. — 
Captain  Sherard  Osborn,  R.  N.,  makes  the  following  notes 
on  this  passage:  "Supposing  a  vessel,  bound  for  the 
western  coast  of  Mexico,  safely  round  cape  Horn,  and  run- 
ning before  the  southerly  gale  which  almost  constantly 
blows  along  the  shore  of  South  America,  she  ought  to  shape 
a  course  so  as  to  cross  the  equator  in  about  98°  or  99°  W. 
long.,  so  that  when  she  gets  the  NE.  trade  she  will  be  at 
least  six  or  seven  degrees  to  the  eastward  of  her  port,  San 
Bias  or  Mazatlan,  and  have  at  the  same  time  a  sufficient 
offing  from  the  Galapagos  islands  to  avoid  their  currents 
and  variable  winds. 

"  We  crossed  in  105°  W.  long.,  having  been  recommend- 
ed to  do  so  by  some  old  merchants  at  Valparaiso,  and  were 
consequently,  although  a  remarkably  fast-sailing  ship,  a 
lamentably  long  time  making  the  distance.  Our  track  led 
us  to  be  exactly  in  the  same  longitude  as  our  port  when 
we  got  the  trade,  and  it  hanging  well  to  the  northward,  we 
were  constantly  increasing  our  distance  until  in  the  latitude 
of  San  Bias,  when  an  in-shore  tack  of  course  shortened  it. 
But  by  the  course  I  have  recommended  the  first  of  the 
NE.  trade  will  drive  the  vessel  into  the  meridian  of  her 
port,  and  she  will  thus  daily  decrease  her  distance. 

U0are  must  be  taken,  in  standing  in  for  land,  not  to  get 
to  leeward  of  San  Bias,  as  there  is  a  strong  southerly  cur- 
rent along  the  coast,  especially  off  cape  Corrientes." 

These  instructions  are  meant  for  vessels  bound  to  San 
Bias  or  Mazatlan.  Those  bound  to  Acapulco,  Istapa  or 
Realejo  should  cross  the  line  more  to  the  eastward,  where, 
however,  calms  are  common,  particularly  near  the  Galapa- 
gos islands  in  January,  February,  and  March.  It  will  there- 
fore be  advantageous  to  cross  the  equator  between  86° 
and  88°  "W.,  if  running  for  one  of  the  eastern  ports  of  the 
Mexican  coast,  or  about  98°  W.  if  bound  to  one  of  the 
western.  Steamers  can,  of  course,  run  through  the  "  dol- 
drums" whenever  most  convenient. 


86  ROUTE  FROM  CAPE  HORN  TO  MAZATLAN. 

In  paragraph  55  will  be  found  an  account  of  an  easterly 
passage  between  Callao  and  San  Jose  de  Guatemala,  (Frig- 
ate Havana.}  We  will  also  give  in  §  60  the  remarks  of 
Captain  Wood  on  the  passage  between  the  Galapagos 
islands  and  cape  St.  Lucas.  Information  on  the  winds  and 
currents  of  this  passage  may  also  be  found  in  paragraphs  1, 
24,  and  39. 

We  would  also  state  that  instructions  have  been  given 
on  the  route  between  cape  Horn  and  the  equator  in  §  44 
and  §  46. 

in  January,  From  a  careful  study  of  the  wind-charts  the  following 
MarchUary'an  facts  are  deduced  concerning  the  voyage  from  the  line  to 
the  port  of  destination.  In  January,  February,  and  March, 
ships  bound  to  Acapulco,  San  Bias,  and  Mazatlan  should 
cross  the  line  at  about  100°  W.  They  should  steer,  the 
winds  being  strong  and  steady  from  SE.  and  S.,  so  as 
to  reach  10°  N.  near  the  meridian  of  their  port.  If  they 
are  going  to  Acapulco,  they  should  cross  10°  K,  between 
101°  and  103°  W.  Thence,  till  they  make  the  laud,  they 
will  have  from  6  to  7  per  cent,  of  calms,  and  NW.,  jS".,  and 
NE.  winds.  Ships  going  to  San  Bias  and  Mazatlan  should 
cross  the  parallel  of  10°  between  105°  and  107°  W.  Be- 
yond this  point  they  are  liable  to  about  5  per  cent,  of  calms 
and  variable  winds  from  NE.  to  NW. 

During  this  season,  vessels  bound  to  Istapa  and  Eealejo 
should  cross  the  equator  between  85°  and  87°  W.  They 
will  then  have  about  5  per  cent,  of  calms,  and  variable  SE. 
and  S.  winds.  The  parallel  of  10°  N.  should  be  crossed  to 
the  eastward  of  the  meridian  of  Istapa  or  Eealejo,  as  the 
case  may  be ;  as  NE.  and  N  W.  winds  are  common  north  of 
10°  N.,  ships  keeping  to  the  westward  of  78°  or  80°  W. 
are  very  likely  to  be  becalmed  after  passing  10°  IS". 

in  April,  May,  In  April,  May,  and  June,  vessels  bound  to  Acapulco 
should  cross  the  line  in  the  neighborhood  of  97°  or  98°  W. 
Thence  they  will  be  able  to  make  quick  time  to  the  north- 
ward, with  the  wind  quite  steady  from  SE.  and  S. 

They  should  reach  10°  K  at  about  97°  W.,  and  will  be 
exposed  to  more  and  more  calms  as  they  sail  to  the  north  ; 
especially  if  they  run  to  the  westward  of  the  meridians  98° 
or  100°  W.  The  southerly  winds  die  away  on  approaching 
Acapulco,  and  come  out  from  E.,  NE.,  and  N.  This  is  a 
very  long  and  tedious  passage  for  sailing-vessels. 


ROUTE  FROM  CAPE  HORN  TO   MAZATLAN.  87 

Vessels  bound  to  San  Bias  and  Mazatlan  should  cross 
the  equator  at  about  98°  W.  They  should  then  steer  so  as 
to  cross  IQo  &  between  100^  and  102°  W.;  the  SE.  breeze 
dying  away  toward  the  parallel  of  10°.  North  of  10°  it  is 
usually  calm,  though  light  airs  are  found,  especially  from 
NE.  to  N.,  as  far  as  20°  N. ;  beyond  this  parallel  steady  W. 
and  NW.  winds  generally  prevail.  Ships  are  sometimes 
becalmed  for  a  long  time,  between  10°  and  20°  N. 

Ships  going  to  Kealejo  and  Istapa  should  cross  the  equa- 
tor between  85°  and  87°  W.  From  this  point  they  can 
easily  steer  for  their  destination  with  southerly  winds,  vary- 
ing at  times  from  SW.  to  SE. 

In  July,  August,  and  September  the  route  for  vessels  puT9°( 
bound  to  Acapulco  is  shorter  than  that  of  the  precedingber> 
months.    They  should  cross  the  line  at  about  96°  or  97° 
W.,  and  steer  with  the  variable  southerly  and  southeasterly 
breeze,  so  as  to  reach  10°  N.  at  98°  W.    Thence  they  will 
be  exposed  to  more  and  more  calms  as  they  approach  and 
pass  100°  W.    In  the  neighborhood  of  15°  N.,  variable  N  W. 
and  SE.  winds  may  be  expected. 

Ships  bound  to  San  Bias  and  Mazatlan  shoukl  cross  the 
line  in  the  neighborhood  of  100°  W.  The  SE.  trades  are  here 
prevalent,  and  will  be  kept  as  far  as  10°  N.  This  parallel 
should  be  crossed  at  about  107°  or  108  W.  Beyond  10°  N. 
there  are  about  6  per  cent,  of  calms,  and  the  prevailing  winds 
are  westerly,  varying  from  NW.  to  SW.  If  possible  cross 
15o  N.  at  about  108°  or  109°  W.  Beyond  15^  N.,  NW. 
winds  are  common  as  far  as  Mazatlan  or  San  Bias.  The 
chance  of  meeting  calms  will  be  at  first  6  per  cent,  j  it  will 
afterward  increase,  and  reach  as  high  as  11  per  cent,  beyond 
20°  N.  If  the  above  crossings  be  followed  the  last  part  of 
the  passage  will  be  rendered  easier,  for  the  course  can  be 
laid  at  NNE.  on  the  port  tack. 

Ships  bound  to  Istapa  and  Kealejo  should  cross  the  equa- 
tor at  about  85°  W.  They  will  find  very  favorable  south- 
erly winds,  varying  from  S  W.  to  SE.,  until  they  reach  their 
anchorage. 

In  October,  November,  and  December  vessels  going  to 
Acapulco  should  cross  the  line  near  96°  or  97°  W.,  and cember 
then,  with  favorable  winds  from  S.  to  SE.,  head  for  10°  N. 
at  about  the  same  longitude. 

Beyond  10°  N.  both  easterly  and  westerly  winds  are  fre- 


88  ROUTE  FROM  CAPE  HORN  TO  SAN  FRANCISCO. 

quent,  with  5  per  cent,  of  chances  of  calms.  On  approach- 
ing 15°  N.,  which  should  be  crossed  between  98°  and  99° 
W.,  the  chance  of  meeting  calms  and  NW.  winds  becomes 
much  greater.  The  latter  part  of  this  route  can  be  greatly 
shortened  by  vessels  with  steam-power.  We  do  not  think 
that  even  sailing-vessels  need  follow  a  more  westerly  route ; 
for  west  of  100°  W.,  and  north  of  10°.,  there  are  9  per  cent, 
of  chances  of  calms,  and  NW.  and  NE.  winds. 

Vessels  going  to  San  Bias  and  Mazatlan  are  obliged  to 
make  their  northing  in  the  unfavorable  belt  above  men- 
tioned. They  should  cross  10°  N.  near  106°  or  107°  W., 
where  they  will  have  steady  winds  from  SE.  They  should 
then  try  to  get  as  far  as  possible  to  the  northward,  taking 
advantage  of  the  NW.,  N.,  and  NE.  breezes,  and  going 
about  whenever  they  can  make  to  the  northward. 

Vessels  bound  to  Realejo  or  Istapa  will  make  good  head- 
way with  the  southerly  winds,  from  the  line — between  86° 
and  88°  W.— to  10°  N.,  crossed  a  little  to  the  westward  of 
the  port  of  destination.  The  wind  becomes  variable  after 
passing  this  parallel ;  in  fact  westerly  winds  are  the  com- 
monest, the  usual  directions  being  NNE.,  NNW.,  NW., 
and  sometimes  WSW. 

§  50.  ROUTE  FROM  CAPE  HORN  OR  THE  STRAIT  OF  MAGEL- 
LAN TO  SAN  FRANCISCO. — Captain  Osboru  says :  "  I  would 
cross  the  equator  in  about  100°  W.  longitude,  cross  the  NE. 
trade  with  a  topmast  studding-sail  set,  and  thus  pass  into 
the  limit  of  the  westerly  winds  about  300  miles  to  windward 
of  the  Sandwich  islands,  and  once  in  them  take  good  care 
to  keep  to  the  northward  of  any  port,  for  as  you  approach 
the  shore  the  wind  will  draw  round  north,  and  the  current 
to  the  southward  increase." 

This  advice  is  good,  with  the  exception  of  the  point  at 
which  the  line  should  be  crossed. 

We  give  below  a  summary  of  Maury's  instructions,  to 
which  we  shall  add  a  few  remarks  on  the  best  points  of 
crossing,  taken  from  information  furnished  by  the  late 
Superintendent  of  the  Naval  Observatory  at  Washington : 

"  The  California-bound  vessels  should  aim  to  enter  the  SE. 
trade-wind  region  of  the  Pacific  as  far  to  the  west,  provided 
they  keep  on  the  eastern  side,  say,  of  118°  W.,  as  they  well 
can ;  they  should  not  fight  with  head  winds  to  make  westing, 
nor  should  they  turn  much  from  the  direct  course  when  the 


ROUTE  FROM  CAPE  HORN  TO  SAN  FRANCISCO.         89 

winds  are  fair.  But  when  winds  are  dead  ahead,  stand  off 
to  the  westward,  especially  if  you  be  south  of  the  trade- 
wind  region.  Having  crossed  the  parallel  of  35°  S.  and 
taken  the  trades,  the  navigator,  with  the  wind  quartering 
and  all  sails  drawing,  should  now  make  the  best  of  his  way 
to  the  equator,  aiming  to  cross  it  between  105°  and  120°, 
according  to  the  season  of  the  year  and  the  directions  and 
tables  hereinafter  given. 

"In  urging  upon  California-bound  vessels  the  importance 
of  making  westing  about  the  parallel  of  50°  S.,  1  do  not 
mean  that  they  should  expose  themselves  to  heavy  weather, 
or  contend  against  adverse  circumstances,  in  order  to  get 
west  on  this  part  of  the  route.  I  simply  mean  that,  if  a 
vessel,  after  doubling  the  cape,  can  steer  a  WNW.  course, 
as  well  as  a  NW.,  or  a  NW.  as  well  as  a  NXW.,  or  a  NNW. 
as  well  as  a  is",  course,  that  she  should  on  all  such  occa- 
sions give  preference  to  the  course  that  has  most  westing 
in  it,  provided  she  does  not  cross  50°  S.  to  the  westward 
of  10(P  or  thereabouts,  nor  30°  S.  to  the  westward  of  115°, 
nor  enter  the  SE.  trade-wind  region  to  the  west  of  the  last- 
named  meridian.  This  is  the  western  route,  and  is  to  be 
preferred  by  all  vessels  at  all  seasons. 

"  Between  the  equator  and  10°  or  12°  K.,  according  to 
the  season  of  the  year,  the  California-bound  navigator  may 
expect  to  lose  the  SE.  and  to  get  the  NB.  trade  winds. 
He  will  find  these  last  nearest  the  equator  in  January, 
February,  and  March ;  but  in  July,  August,  and  Septem- 
ber he  will  sometimes  find  himself  to  the  north  of  the  par- 
allel of  15°  N.  before  he  gets  fairly  in  the  KE.  trades.  And 
sometimes,  especially  in  summer  and  fall,  he  will  not  get 
them  at  all,  unless  he  keeps  well  out  to  the  west.  Having 
them,  he  should  steer  a  good  rap-full,  at  least,  aiming,  of 
course,  to  cross  the  parallel  of  20°  N.  in  about  125°  W.,  or 
rather  not  to  the  east  of  that,  particularly  from  June  to  No- 
vember. His  course,  after  crossing  20°  N.,  is  necessarily 
to  the  northward  and  westward  until  he  loses  the  NE. 
trades.  He  should  aim  to  reach  the  latitude  of  his  port 
without  going  to  the  west  of  130°  W.,  if  he  can  help  it,  or 
without  approaching  nearer  than  250  or  300  miles  to  the 
land  until  he  passes  out  of  the  belt  of  the  NE.  trades,  and 
gets  into  the  variables,  the  prevailing  direction  of  which  is 
westerly. 


90  ROUTE  FROM  CAPE  HORN  TO   SAN  FRANCISCO. 

"  The  Farallones,  seven  small  islands,  about  30  miles  from 
San  Francisco,  are  in  the  fair-way  to  the  harbor.  They 
afford  a  fine  landmark,  and  should  be  made  by  all  inward- 
bound  vessels.  The  course  from  the  south  Farallone  to  the 
mouth  of  the  harbor  is  about  N.  73°  E. ;  true  distance  27 

I  miles.  The  fort  on  the  south  point  of  Alcatraz  island  is 
said  to  be  the  best  course  in.  Vessels,  upon  approaching 
•  the  heads  of  San  Francisco,  especially  in  the  winter  months, 
are  liable  to  be  beset  by  fogs,  and  delayed  for  many  days. 

"  Between  the  northwest  coast  and  the  meridian  of  130° 
W.,  from  30°  to  40°  N.,  the  prevailing  direction  of  the  wind 
in  summer  and  fall  is  from  the  northward  and  westward; 
whereas,  to  the  west  of  130°,  and  between  the  same  paral- 
lels, the  NE.  trades  are  the  prevailing  winds  for  these  two 
seasons.  There  is  a  marked  difference  in  the  directions  of 
the  winds  on  the  opposite  sides  of  the  meridian  of  130°  W. 
in  the  North  Pacific. 

"  Vessels  bound  to  San  Francisco  should  not,  unless 
forced  by  adverse  winds,  go  any  farther  beyond  the  merid- 
ian of  130°  W.  than  they  can  help. 

"  Supposing  that  vessels  generally  will  be  able  to  reach 
30°  N.  without  crossing  the  meridian  of  130  W.,  the  distance 
per  great  circle  from  cape  Horn  to  its  point  of  intersection 
with  that  parallel  is  about  6,000  miles. 

"And  supposing,  moreover,  that  California-bound  vessels 
will  generally,  after  doubling  cape  Horn,  be  able  to  cross 
the  parallel  of  50°  S.  between  the  meridians  of  80°  and  100° 
W,,  their  shortest  distance  in  miles  thence  to  30°  N.,  at  its 
intersection  with  the  meridian  of  130°  W.,  would  be  to 
cross  40°  S.  in  about  100°  W. ;  30°  S.  in  about  104° ;  20°  S. 
in  about  109°;  the  equator  in  117Q  W.;  and  30°  K.  about 
130°  W.,  (126°  if  you  can.)  By  crossing  the  line  10°  farther 
to  the  east  or  10°  farther  to  the  west  of  117°,  the  great  cir- 
cle distance  from  cape  Horn  to  the  intersection  of  30°  N. 
with  130°  W.  will  be  increased  only  150  miles. 

"  Navigators  appear  to  think  that  the  turning-point  on  a 
California  voyage  is  the  place  of  crossing  the  equator  in 
the  Pacific.  But  the  crossing  which  may  give  the  shortest 
run  thence  to  California  may  not  be  the  crossing  which  it  is 
most  easy  to  make  from  the  United  States  or  Europe ;  and 
it  is  my  wish  to  give  in  these  Sailing  Directions  the  routes 
which,  on  the  average,  will  afford  the  shortest  passages  to 


ROUTE  FROM  CAPE  HORN  TO  SAN  FRANCISCO. 


91 


vessels  that  have  doubled  cape  Ilorn  and  are  bound  direct 
to  California." 

Such  is  the  principal  advice  given  by  Maury  on  the  pas- 
sage between  cape  Horn  and  San  Francisco.  We  will  add 
the  following  remarks. 

After  leaving  cape  Horn  it  is  well  to  make  as  much  west- 
ing as  possible.  Vessels  are  quite  certain  to  be  delayed* 
not  only  by  the  wind,  which  often  blows  from  W.,  but  by 
the  strength  of  this  wind,  and  the  heavy  swell  and  rough 
sea  it  causes.  It  should,  therefore,  be  understood  that  the 
advice  to  make  westing  merely  means  to  neglect  no  oppor- 
tunity of  getting  to  the  westward  whenever  it  can  be  done 
without  making  anything  to  the  southward.  In  §  44  and 
§  46  detailed  instructions  will  be  found  on  the  part  of  the  pas- 
sage between  the  cape  and  30°  or  25°  S. ;  that  is  on  the 
route  to  be  followed  to  reach  the  SE.  trades. 

After  entering  this  zone  it  is  perfectly  easy  to  steer  for 
the  equatorial  crossing.  But  it  is  an  open  question  at 
which  point  it  is  best  to  cross.  We  shall,  therefore,  pursue 
this  question  still  further  with  the  view  of  determining  its 
best  solution. 

We  will  first  give  the  following  table,  (extracted  from  the 
Sailing  Directions,)  which  gives  for  each  month  the  average 
of  the  shortest  passages  which  were  made  prior  to  1854  : 

Mean  of  the  best  passages— prior  to  1854— from  50°  S.  to  San  Francisco. 


Months. 

Ifo.  of  passages  from 
•which  the  mean  has 
been  taken. 

Longitudes  west  at  which  the  paral- 
lels have  been  crossed. 

Days  of  passage. 

02 
1 

02 

0 

«i 

02 

1 

02 

S 

& 

From  50°  S. 
to  the  line. 

®  a 
5£8 

5-3 

a®§ 

!« 

32  = 

ji 

|*i 

43J 
45 
49 

54* 
55 
55 

51 
56 
45 

47 
47 
43 

January  ...... 

9 
8 
13 

9 
12 
11 

6 
8 
4 

12 
11 
10 

o 
80 

82 
82 

83 

82 
82 

82 

84 
82 

80 
83 
83 

0 

83 
85 

85 

87 
85 
84 

88 
86 
88 

82 
85 
83 

0 

87 
88 
88 

86 

87 
86 

90 
85 

87 

84 
84 

84 

o 
90 
90 
89 

89 

87 
89 

92 

87 
87 

86 
84 

87 

0 

92 
93 
93 

92 
90 
91 

95 
90 
90 

89 
88 
91 

0 

111 
111 
110 

109 
109 
110 

115 
108 
111 

110 
108 
113 

22J 
25 
25 

24* 

24| 
27 

23 
25 
21 

24 
24 
22 

21 
20 
24 

30 
30i 
2ti 

28 
31 
24 

23 
23 
21 

February  . 

March 

April    .   . 

May 

June 

July  

August 

September  

October  .. 

November  

December  

92  ROUTE  FROM  CAPE  HORN  TO  SAN  FRANCISCO. 

After  an  examination  of  this  table,  we  determined  to  see 
if  there  would  not  be  some  advantage,  at  certain  seasons  of 
the  year,  in  crossing  the  equator  on  a  more  westerly  merid- 
ian. With  this  intention  we  constructed  the  following  table : 

For  each  mouth,  we  have  placed  on  the  first  line  the 
mean  point  of  crossing,  corresponding  to  the  most  rapid 
passages  which  have  been  made  between  the  equator  and  Cal- 
ifornia. These  points  of  crossing,  as  well  as  the  number  of 
days  at  sea  from  the  line  to  San  Francisco,  have  been  taken 
from  the  tables  in  Maury's  work.  The  number  of  days 
of  passage  from  50°  S.  to  the  line  is  placed  in  the  first 
line,  and  represents  the  means  of  the  monthly  tables  of 
routes. 

The  second  line  for  each  month  contains  analogous  in- 
formation, taken  from  the  preceding  table,  and  which  cor- 
responds to  the  best  passages  made  before  1854. 

Thus  the  first  line  is  reserved  for  the  new  or  westerly 
routes  j  the  second  line  for  the  best  routes  prior  to  1854. 

In  comparing  these  two  lines,  it  is  important  to  note 
that  the  total  number  of  days  of  passage  for  the  old  route 
(second  lines  for  each  month)  corresponds  to  the  observed 
minimum. 

But  it  is  not  so  for  the  first  lines  of  each  month  (western 
routes,)  for  which  the  number  of  days  of  passage  from  the 
line  to  San  Francisco  only  represents  the  minimum.  We 
have  not  been  able  to  determine  the  minimum  number  of 
days  from  50°  S.  to  the  line,  and  have  confined  ourselves 
to  putting  the  monthly  mean  in  its  place. 


ROUTE  FROM  CAPE  HORN  TO  SAN  FRANCISCO. 


93 


Comparison  between  the  eastern  and  western  routes,  from  cape  Horn  to  San 

Francisco. 


Months     during 
which  the  lino 
was  crossed. 

Number  of  passages 
of  which  the  mean 
•was  taken. 

Meridians    between 
which  the  line  was 
crossed. 

Number  of  days  of  passage— 

From  500  g.  to 
the  line. 

II 

<e* 

5  a 

£-2  '5 

0* 

21 

II 
lls 

January  

4 
9 

1 

8 

13 
13 

7 
9 

13 
12 

21 
11 

7 
6 

3 

8 

5 
4 

16 
12 

14 
11 

3 

10 

Longitude  W. 
Between  115°  and  125° 
At  111°  

23 
22* 

22 
25 

31 

25 

29 
24J 

3 

30 
27 

31 

a 

33 

25 

25 
21 

25| 
24 

26 
24 

25 
22 

From  18  to  19. 
21 

18 
20 

25 
24 

93 

30 

2H 
30i 

f      32 
28 

From  29  to  30. 

28 

25 
31 

20 
24 

26 
23 

24 
23 

18 
21 

w 

«rt 

40 
45 

56 
49 

52 
54J 

S5 

62 
55 

From  60  to  61. 
51 

58 
56 

51 
45 

51| 

47 

50 

47 

43 
43 

Between  115°  and  12(P 
At  111°  

March     

Between  11(P  and  115° 
At  110° 

April 

Between  115°  and  120° 
At  109° 

May 

BetweenllO°andl?0° 
At  109°  

Between  110°  and  120° 
At  110° 

July 

Between  115°  and  125° 
At  115° 

Between  105°  and  110° 
At  108° 

September  
October      

Between  115°  and  125° 
At  111° 

Between  110°  and  120° 
At  110° 

November  
December  

Between  110°  and  120° 
At  108°  . 

Between  115°  and  120C 
At  113°  

Notwithstanding  the  unfavorable  manner  in  which  this 
table  was  necessarily  constructed,  it  will  still  be  seen  that 
the  total  length  of  the  passages,  on  the  first  line  for  each 
month,  is  less  than  the  total  length  of  those  on  the  second 
line  in  January,  February,  and  April. 

This  result  shows  that  there  is  some  advantage  in  follow- 
ing a  western  route,  at  least  during  the  above-mentioned 
months. 

Findlay  also  states  that  the  mean  passage  from  50°  8.  to 
San  Francisco,  is  53J  days  for  ships  that  cross  the  equator 
between  115°  and  120°  W. ;  while  it  is  53.8  days  for  those 
which  cross  the  line  between  110°  and  115°.  This  fact 


94         ROUTE  FROM  CAPE  HORN  TO  SAN  FRANCISCO. 

again  shows  that  there  is  an  advantage  to  be  gained  (how  - 
ever  slight)  by  taking  a  westerly  route. 

In  conclusion  we  would  state  that  the  line  should  never 

be  crossed,  by  sailing-vessels,  to  the  eastward  of  110°  W. 

Februar^aiui     "^n  January?  February,  and  March  cross  10°  N.  between 

Marchua       1U  120°  and  123°  W.    To  the  southward  of  this  point  the 

trades  blow ;  but  soon  after  leaving  10°  N.  the  wind  will 

come  out  steady  from  NE. 

The  change  will  generally  take  place  without  an  inter- 
vening calm.  Vessels  will  be  able  to  steer  a  little  free 
through  the NE.  trades;  as  20°  N.  will  not  have  to  be  crossed 
to  the  eastward  of  128°  W.,  nor  30°  N.  to  the  eastward  of 
133°  W.  Beyond  30°  N.  the  wind  will  become  variable,  first 
hauling  to  ENE.  Make  as  much  to  the  northward  as  pos- 
sible ;  but  do  not  attempt  to  make  any  easting  until  the 
region  of  westerly  winds,  or  what  is  generally  the  same,  the 
latitude  of  San  Francisco,  is  reached. 

in  April,  May,  In  April,  May,  and  June,  cross  the  line  between  118° 
and  1230  W.;  here  the  wind  prevails  from  SB.,  and  the 
course  can  be  laid  to  reach  10°  N.,  between  123°  and  125° 
W.  Thence  keep  the  sails  well  full,  with  the  NE.  trades, 
which  will  often  haul  to  N.  and  stand  on  the  same  tack  to 
30°  ^  between  133°  and  138°  W. 

The  last  part  of  the  passage  will  be  the  same  as  that  for 

the  preceding  mouths;  and  the  winds  will  not  generally 

become  favorable,  or  westerly,  south  of  37°  or  39°  N. 

in  July,  An-     J11  Jul.V>  August,  and  September,  the  best  point  to  cross 

j£st,andseptein-the  ]ine  js  about  -^50  \\r. .  and   the  parallel  HP  N.  at  130° 

W.  The  SE.  trades  will  be  carried  across  the  line  and  as 
far  as  this  latter  parallel ;  but  from  10°  to  20°  N".,  about 
7  per  cent,  of  calms  and  prevailing  KB.  breezes  may  be 
looked  for ;  SW.  winds  have  also  been  found  in  this  locality. 
Cross  20°  N.,  between  133°  and  136°  VV.;  beyond  this 
parallel  the  steady  NE.  trades  will  be  found,  and  the  at- 
tempt should  be  made  to  cross  30°  N.  near  140°  W.  After 
this  the  wind  may  be  very  variable  in  direction,  though 
probably  from  the  northward  and  eastward  as  far  north  as 
34°  or  30°  N.,  where  the  first  puffs  of  the  westerly  wind  will 
be  felt.  To  make  a  quick  passage  run  well  up  into  the 
zone  of  west  winds,  and  make  the  easting  to  the  northward 
of  the  parallel  of  San  Francisco. 


ROUTE  FROM  VALPARAISO  TO  CALLAO.  95 


In  October,  November,  and  December  the  equator  should  ^^i^JJJ1  De- 
be  crossed  near  113°  W.  ;  and  10°  X.  between  118°  and  120°  cember.' 
W.  The  SE.  trades  will  be  carried  to  nearly  10°  N.,  ves- 
sels usually  running  from  one  set  of  trade-winds  into  the 
other  without  any  intervening  calms;  then  keep  a  point 
or  two  free,  and  cross  20°  N.  between  127°  and  129°  W.  It 
will,  however,  be  necessary  to  lay  a  little  closer  when  be- 
tween 20°  and  30°  K,  so  as  to  reach  the  latter  parallel  at 
133°  or  134°  W.  As  the  wind  becomes  variable  north  of 
30°,  advantage  should  be  taken  of  every  favorable  slant. 
The  parallel  of  38°,  or  perhaps  40°,  once  reached,  bear  to 
the  eastward  with  the  west  wind,  taking  care,  however,  to 
cross  the  130th  meridian  north  of  the  parallel  of  San  Fran- 
cisco; as  northerly  winds  in  that  locality  are  common. 

§  51.  KOUTE  FROM  VALPARAISO  TO  THE  INTERMEDI- 
ATE PORTS  AND  CALLAO.*  —  Remarks  by  M.  Lartigne,  (vide 
S.  Pacific  Directory,  page  911.)  "  The  navigation  of  the 
Peruvian  coast  is  very  easy  in  summer  ;  the  land-breezes 
are  moderate  ;  the  weather,  which  is  generally  clear,  allows 
the  latitude  to  be  observed  nearly  every  day,  and  to  recog- 
nize, by  this  means,  the  part  of  the  coast  opposite  to  which 
you  may  be.  There  is  then  no  inconvenience  in  keeping  a 
moderate  distance  off,  so  as  to  meet  with  fresh  breezes,  and 
thus  shorten  the  passage. 

"The  weather,  which  is  often  cloudy  in  winter,  will  not 
allow  of  observations  to  be  taken  every  day,  and  you  must 
then  direct  your  course  by  your  dead  reckoning,  or  from 
the  more  remarkable  objects  tying  on  the  coast.  Those 
which  are  met  with  between  the  Quebrada  Camarones  and 
the  valley  of  Tambo  may  be  made  out  at  a  considerable 
distance,  so  that  when  between  these  two  remarkable  points 
you  may  proceed  by  keeping  20  or  25  miles  off  the  land. 
At  this  distance  the  sea-breezes  keep  up  through  the  greater 
part  of  the  night. 

"The  only  objects  at  all  remarkable  that  are  to  be  met 
with  between  the  valley  of  Tambo  and  that  of  Quilca,  are 
the  points  of  Islay  and  Cornajo,  but  these  cannot  be  made 
out  at  more  than  ]0  or  12  miles  off,  for  when  farther  off 

*  Intermediate  ports  ("  Intermedias")  is  the  name  given  to  the  har- 
bors along  the  west  coast  of  S.  America  between  Valparaiso  and  Callao. 
—  Translator. 


96  ROUTE  FROM  VALPARAISO  TO  CALLAO. 

they  appear  confounded  with  the,  high  land  of  Peru.  It 
seems  that  in  this  season,  you  must  continue  to  fix  your 
position  by  the  sight  of  the  land,  and  so  follow  the  coast  at 
less  than  10  or  12  miles  distant ;  but  as  you  then  only  find 
light  airs,  interrupted  by  calms,  which  may  last  for  several 
days  together,  you  run  the  risk  of  being  carried  too  near 
the  land  by  the  heavy  swell  which  is  felt  on  all  its  extent. 
The  depth  off  it  is  considerable,  and  the  quality  of  the  bot- 
tom very  bad  ;  it  is  only  at  the  opening  of  the  valleys  that 
you  can  hope  to  find,  at  2  or  3  miles  from  the  shore,  less 
than  30  fathoms  water,  over  a  bottom  of  mud  or  fine  sand. 
The  only  advantage  that  will  be  gained  by  sailing  so  near 
the  land  will  be  to  profit  by  the  slightest  breeze  to  get  an 
anchorage,  and  to  be  seldom  exposed  to  the  chance  of  over- 
running it ;  but  these  advantages,  as  will  be  seen,  are  nob 
of  a  nature  to  compensate  for  the  inconveniences,  or  rather 
the  dangers,  to  which  a  ship  is  exposed. 

"  It  would,  therefore,  be  better  to  sail  farther  off  the 
laud,  keeping  at  20  or  25  miles7  distance ;  as  when  between 
the  Quebrada  Camarones  and  the  valley  of  Tambo,  the 
swell  is  not  felt  at  this  distance,  and  the  winds  will  be 
fresh;  but  the  currents,  which  constantly  run  to  NW.. 
cause  the  reckoning  to  be  very  erroneous,  and  you  may  be 
carried  to  lee  ward  of  your  port  or  the  anchorage  you  maybe 
seeking.  Beyond  this,  this  inconvenience  is  without  dan- 
ger, and  cannot  occasion  more  than  a  hindrance  ;  for  in  re- 
turning to  the  required  destination,  sailing  to  the  south- 
ward, you  must  run  to  the  offing,  bear  up  to  the  wind,  and 
then,  approaching  the  land,  reach  the  port  which  has  been 
overrun.  It  is,  notwithstanding,  necessary,  following  the 
general  rule,  to  make  an  exception,  which  in  some  circum- 
stances may  shorten  the  passage.  We  have  said  that  the 
breeze  was  sometimes  tolerably  fresh,  and  that  then  the 
counter-current,  which  runs  to  the  south  along  the  land, 
extends  some  miles  in  the  offing ;  it  is  evident  that  it  would 
be  better  to  work  in  this  counter-current,  at  all  times  when 
the  force  of  the  wind  allows  it,  and  you  have  not  overran 
your  port  more  than  5  or  10  miles ;  but  if  you  should  have 
done  so  to  a  greater  distance,  it  will  be  preferable  to  take 
directly  the  first  course,  and  profit  by  this  breeze  to  get 
away  from  the  land. 


FROM  VALPARAISO  TO  CALLAO.  97 

"  It  will  be  advantageous  to  maneuver  thus,  every  time 
you  are  on  any  portion  of  the  coast  which  is  described. 

"  What  has  just  been  said,  relative  to  the  mode  of  navigat- 
ing and  running  along  the  coast  of  which  we  have  just  been 
speaking,  applied  to  the  portion  comprised  between  the 
valleys  of  Quilca  and  Ocona.  But  it  is  necessary  to  observe 
that  the  valley  of  Camana,  which  is  as  easy  to  be  made  out 
at  20  or  25  miles'  distance  as  that  of  Quilca,  has  the  incon- 
venience, as  well  as  the  latter  valley,  of  not  being  perfectly 
recognizable  until  it  bears  to  the  NE.,  when  it  is  passed, 
and  you  cannot  reach  the  anchorage  on  that  tack. 

"  In  winter,  as  in  summer,  you  must  always  be  particular 
to  approach  the  land  to  the  south  of  the  intended  port,  and 
then  range  the  land  at  a  short  distance.  The  breezes  being 
fresher  in  summer  and  the  sea  smoother,  the  land  is  made 
more  easily  than  in  winter." 

Captain  Fitz  Boy  says :  "  When  going  to  the  north- 
ward, along  the  coast  of  Chile,  steer  direct  to  the  place,  or 
as  nearly  so  as  is  consistent  with  making  use  of  the  steady 
winds  which  prevail  in  the  offing.  Little  difficulty  is  found 
in  going  to  the  northward  along  the  coast  of  Peru  j  a  fair 
offing  is  all  that  is  required  to  insure  any  vessel  making  a 
certain  port  in  a  given  number  of  days." 

Captain  Chardonneau  gives  the  following  instructions  for 
the  coast  of  Peru  : 

"As  fogs  are  frequent,  vessels  should  not  get  within  4 
miles  of  the  coast,  yet  in  order  to  reach  their  destination 
easily  they  should  not,  on  the  other  hand,  run  out  to  sea  for 
more  than  15  miles;  that  is,  the  prominent  headlands 
should  be  kept  within  sight,  as  no  confidence  can  be  placed 
in  the  dead  reckoning  on  account  of  the  strong  and  vari- 
able currents." 

This  is  an  easy  passage,  and  we  will  confine  ourselves  to  M  From  y&1 
a  few  observations  on  the  voyage,  taken  from  Capt.  BasilparaisotoCaiiao. 
Hall's  log  while  on  this  coast : 

"From  Valparaiso  to  Callao,  27th  January  to  5th  February, 
1821. — The  wind  on  this  passage  is  always  nearly  the  same, 
viz,  SSE.  It  sometimes  hauls  a  point  or  two  to  the  east- 
ward, but  the  passage  is  always  practicable.  The  only  pre- 
caution to  be  attended  to  is  to  run  well  off  the  land  in  the 
first  instance,  say  150  miles,  on  a  NW.  course,  and  then 
steer  direct  for  San  Lorenzo,  a  high  and  well-defined  island 
7  N 


98  FROM  VALPARAISO  TO  CALLAO. 

forming  the  eastern  side  of  Callao  bay.  It  is  usual  to  make 
the  land  of  Morne  Solar,  which  lies  10  miles  to  the  south- 
ward of  Callao,  and  then  run  into  the  roads  by  the  Boqueron 
passage,  or  proceed  around  the  north  end  of  San  Lorenzo. 
In  entering  by  the  Boqueron  great  attention  must  be  paid 
to  the  lead  and  the  bearings,  and  an  anchor  kept  ready  to 
let  go. 

"  It  is  generally  calm  in  the  mornings,  and  sometimes 
f°ggy»  but  about  11  o'clock  it  clears  up  and  a  breeze 
springs  up  from  the  southward,  which  enables  ships  to 
reach  the  anchorage  generally  without  a  tack,  after  round- 
ing the  north  end  of  Lorenzo,  so  that  upon  the  whole  this 
outer  route,  which  is  entirely  free  from  danger,  is  preferable 
to  the  other,  at  least  for  a  stranger." 

cJiaortouching  "Passage  made  between  the  27th  May  and  the  2±th  June, 
diatehportsterme  1821. — From  Valparaiso  we  steered  at  the  distance  of  about 
60  miles  from  the  coast  as  far  as  lat.  22°  30'  S.,  when  we 
hauled  in  ;  afterward  coasted  along  in  sight  of  the  shore,  at 
the  distance  of  20  or  25  miles,  as  far  as  Arica.  The  winds 
being  light  from  SSE.,  it  was  not  till  the  7th  June  that  we 
anchored  there.  Thence  we  coasted  along  by  Quilca,  Sama 
point,  and  Ilo  to  Mollendo,  the  winds  being  generally  from 
the  eastward,  and  drawing  off  shore  at  night ;  calm  in  the 
mornings,  and  hauling  in  from  the  sea  in  the  day;  the 
weather  invariably  fine.  From  Mollendo  to  Callao  we  had 
a  fresh  breeze  off  shore  about  SE.  On  approaching  Solar 
point  the  wind  fell  light,  and  we  were  obliged  to  tow  the 
ship  through  the  Boqueron  passage  into  Callao  roads.'7 
CaTko^touching  "Passage  made  between  the  15th  November  and  the  9th  De- 
Hna«5,  cipip°o,  cwibWi  1821.— The  winds  during  these  passages  along  shore 
and  Mo1" are  always  light  and  from  the  southward,  hauling  in  from 
sea  during  the  day  and  freshening  from  off  the  land  in  the 
night. 

"  Between  Mollendo  and  Callao  there  is  a  pretty  steady 
breeze  from  ESE.,  with  a  drain  of  current  along  shore — a 
remark  which  applies  to  the  whole  coast  from  Valparaiso  to 
Lima. 

UA  remarkable  increase  of  the  great  SW.  swell  is  observ- 
able at  the  full  and  change  of  the  moon,  on  the  coast,  es- 
pecially from  Arica  to  Huacho  inclusive,  a  circumstance 
which  renders  it  difficult,  and  sometimes  impossible,  to  land 
at  those  places." 


FROM  VALPARAISO  TO  SAN  FRANCISCO.  99 

§  52.  ROUTE  FROM  VALPARAISO  TO  SAN  FRANCISCO. — 
After  leaving  Valparaiso,  a  ship  will  generally  find  no  diffi- 
culty in  steering  NW.  and  reaching  the  region  of  the  SE. 
winds.  After  striking  the  trades,  the  course  should  be 
shaped  so  as  to  cross  the  equator  at  the  point  mentioned  in 
§50. 

§  53.  EOUTE  FROM  CALLAO  TO  PAYTA  AND  GUAYA- 
QUIL.— As  the  wind  in  this  locality  always  prevails  from 
the  southward  and  eastward,  the  passage  from  Callao  to 
Payta  and  Guayaquil  may  be  made  without  any  difficulty. 

Capt.  Basil  Hall  gives  the  following  example : 

"  Voyage  from  Callao  to  Pacasrnayas,  Payta,  and  Guaya- 
quil, 17th  to  25th  December,  1821. — The  winds  between  Cal- 
lao and  Guayaquil  are  moderate  from  the  southward ;  at 
night  hauling  to  the  southeastward,  and  in  the  day  from 

ssw. 

"This  is  the  period  at  which  the  rains  are  expected  to  set 
in,  and  the  heavy,  threatening  aspect  of  the  clouds  over  the 
hills  gave  us  reason  to  expect  that  we  should  not  escape ; 
but  none  fell  during  our  stay." 

Vessels  coming  from  Callao  should  steer  to  double  point 
Aguja,  which  is  long  and  level,  terminated  by  a  bluff  about 
160  feet  high. 

Vessels  bound  to  Payta  will  find,  "  after  leaving  Foca  BoundtoPayta. 
point,  a  line  of  cliffs,  about  130  feet  high  extending  as  far 
as  Payta  point,  which  is  9  miles  distant,  N.  by  E.  Between 
these  points  and  1£  miles  from  the  coast  is  a  group  of  hills 
called  the  Silla,  or  Saddle  of  Payta,  thus  described  by  Capt. 
Basil  Hall :  "The  Silla  is  sufficiently  remarkable;  it  is  high 
and  peaked,  forming  three  clusters  of  peaks,  joined  together 
at  the  base,  the  middle  being  the  highest ;  the  two  north- 
ern ones  are  of  a  dark-brown  color,  the  southern  is  the  low- 
est and  of  a  lighter  brown.  These  peaks  rise  out  of  a  level 
plain,  and  are  an  excellent  guide  to  vessels  bound  for  the 
port  of  Payta  from  the  southward." 

There  is  no  danger  in  entering  the  harbor  of  Payta;  after 
rounding  the  outer  point  with  a  signal-station  on  its  ridge, 
False  bay  will  be  opened;  this  must  be  passed,  as  the  true 
bay  is  round  Inner  point.  That  point  ought  not  to  be  hug. 
ged  too  closely,  for  there  are  some  rocks  at  the  distance  of  a 
cable's  length,  and  the  wind  baffles  often.  After  rounding 
Inner  point  a  vessel  may  anchor  where  convenient,  in  quiet, 


100  PEOM  CALLAO  TO  PANAMA. 

still  water,  in  about  6.5  fathoms,  oyer  a  muddy  bottom.  The 
holding-ground  is  excellent,  and  notwithstanding  the  fresh 
breezes,  there  is  nothing  to  apprehend.  These  winds  are 
constant  every  day,  setting  off  the  laud  from  10  a.  m.  to 
sunset,  but  they  raise  no  swell,  as  they  blow  over  the  high 
land.  In  entering  the  roadstead  it  is  better  to  shorten  sail 
before  rounding  the  Signal  point,  as  heavy  gusts  sometimes 
occur  in  Colorado  bay  as  well  as  off  that  point.  It  is  sel- 
dom that  the  anchorage  is  reached  in  one  tack,  but  there  is 
plenty  of  room  for  working. 

Vessels  bound  to  Guayaquil  should  make  the  land  at 
point  Picos,  which  is  easily  known  by  its  sand  dunes. 

A  few  miles  farther  north  is  the  low,  wooded  point  of  Ma 
pelo. 

Ten  miles  to  the  northward  and  westward  of  this  point  the 
depth  is  about  41  fathoms,  sand  and  mud.  Vessels  should 
pass  about  5  miles  to  the  southward  of  Santa  Clara  island, 
with  a  depth  of  between  15  and  20  fathoms,  and  then  steer 
IN".  59°  E.  for  25  miles,  passing  between  point  Arenas  an 
the  S.  buoy  on  Mala  bank. 

A  pilot  will  generally  be  found  at  point  Arenas;  if  not, 
it  is  easy  to  reach  the  anchorage  at  Puna.  The  channel  W. 
of  Mala  bank  is  the  best;  Mala  hill  being  a  good  landmark, 
vessels  drawing  18  feet  can,  at  high  water,  clear  the  bar 
north  of  Puna  (with  a  pilot)  and  ascend  the  river  to  Guaya- 
quil, a  distance  of  80  miles. 

§  54.  ROUTE  FROM  CALLAO  TO  PANAMA.— Paragraph  48 
contains  the  proper  instructions  for  reaching  Panama  from 
30°  S.  The  reader  should  keep  in  mind,  while  running 
through  the  SE.  trades  that  it  is  advisable  to  make 
point  Aguja  and  cape  Blanco  before  standing  up  the  coast 
for  cape  San  Francisco  with  the  favorable  wind.  The  wind 
is  usually  fair  to  northward  of  the  line,  except  occasionally 
in  January,  February,  and  March,  (vide  §  23.) 

Captain  De  Eossencoat  gives  the  following  excellent  in- 
structions on  this  route : 

"After  leaving  Callao  and  doubling  the  Pescadores  and 
Pelado  islands,  steer  for  point  Aguja,  where  the  wind  is 
generally  fresher  than  at  other  points  on  the  coast.  Keep 
about  20  or  25  miles  from  the  coast  between  point  Aguja 
and  cape  San  Francisco,  and  then  head  for  the  Pearl  islands, 
where  the  land-fall  is  always  uncertain,  as  the  currents  at 


FROM  CALLAO  TO  PANAMA.  101 

the  mouth  of  the  gulf  arc  always  more  or  less  affected  by 
the  prevailing  winds. 

"  During  the  fine  season,  when  the  NE.  wind  is  well  es- 
tablished, that  is  after  the  beginning  of  January,  the  cur- 
rents set  to  W.  During  the  winter,  on  the  contrary,  the 
pre valence  of  the  S  W.  winds  makes  an  easterly  current.  In 
both  cases  their  strength  is  sufficient  to  make  grave  errors 
in  navigating. 

"Apart  from  this  uncertainty  of  the  currents  the  gulf  of 
Panama  is  easy  of  access.  As  soon  as  the  Pearl  islands  are 
sighted  steer  for  Otoque  islands,  which  are  high,  and  visible 
at  quite  a  distance  ;  there  are  two  principal  ones  and  be- 
tween them  a  small  islet.  On  reaching  this  point,  Taboga 
island,  where  ships  generally  anchor,  will  be  in  sight. 

"  To  reach  the  anchorage  pass  between  Taboguilla  and 
Urana,  being  careful  to  keep  sufficiently  close  to  Tirana  to 
avoid  a  ridge  of  rocks  which  is  only  awash  at  very  low 
water,  and  is  situated  half  way  between  point  Urana  and 
a  small  round  island,  about  1  mile  SSE.  of  Taboguilla.  If 
this  passage  cannot  be  made  without  going  about,  it  will 
be  better  to  keep  to  the  eastward  of  Taboguilla;  vessels 
can  anchor  very  near  land  in  this  roadstead  with  11  or  13 
fathoms  of  water. 

"  Steamers  ply  regularly  between  Taboga  and  Panama. 
To  reach  the  anchorage  off  the  town,  steer  so  as  to  pass  to 
the  eastward  and  quite  close  to  the  Farallon  of  San  Jose*. 
When  this  bears  S.  11°  E.  by  compass,  and  the  steeples  of 
the  cathedral  N.  60°  W.,  drop  anchor  in  5  fathoms  of  water, 
muddy  bottom." 

Captain  Harvey,  of  H.  If.  8.  Havana,  remarks  as  follows 
on  this  voyage,  (Naut.  Mag.,  Nov.,  1860 :) 

"  We  left  Callao  on  the  14th  May,  crossed  the  equator  on 
the  20th,  in  82°  37'  W.  With  the  exception  of  some  varia- 
ble weather  on  the  26th,  we  took  the  wind  with  us  up  to 
the  Pearl  islands,  making  Galera  at  3k  a.  m.  on  the  28th, 
and  anchored  off  the  town  of  Panama  on  the  following  day. 
A  ship  bound  for  Panama  should  make  her  way  up  the  bay 
on  the  eastern  side  of  it  and  work  up  inshore  between  the 
Pearl  islands  and  the  main,  where  there  is  good  anchorage, 
should  it  fall  calm  or  the  current  prove  too  strong  against 
her.  During  our  stay  of  six  weeks  we  had  the  usual  sultry 
weather,  with  ra.in  and  thunder  storms/' 


102  FROM  CALLAO  TO  PANAMA. 

Captain  Fitz-Roy  says : — "  Sailing-vessels  bound  to  Pana- 
ma should  endeavor  to  get  within  3  or  4  miles  of  Chepillo 
island,  especially  between  December  and  June,  and  so  have 
all  the  advantage  of  the  prevailing  wind.  From  this  posi- 
tion Ancon  hill  will  be  seen,  and  should  be  kept  a  little  on 
the  port  bow,  as  the  wind  hauls  to  the  westward  on  ap- 
proaching Panama. 

"  The  passage  from  the  southward  into  the  gulf  of  Pana- 
ma is  easily  made  during  the  greater  part  of  the  year,  by 
keeping  about  60  miles  from  the  coast  north  of  Guayaquil, 
and,  after  crossing  the  line,  shaping  a  course  for  the  Galera 
islands,  at  the  same  time  taking  care,  especially  in  the  dry 
season,  to  stand  inshore  with  the  first  northerly  winds.  By 
so  doing  vessels  will  most  probably  have  the  current  in  their 
favor  along  the  coast,  whereas  by  keeping  in  the  center  or 
on  the  western  side  of  the  gulf,  a  strong  southerly  set  will 
be  experienced. 

"After  making  Galera  and  clearing  the  San  Jose"  bank, 
the  navigation  between  the  Pearl  islands  and  the  main  is 
clear  and  easy,  with  the  advantage  of  being  able  to  anchor 
should  the  wind  fail  or  the  tide  be  against  the  vessel.  As 
a  rule,  this  passage  should  be  taken ;  but,  with  a  strong 
southerly  wind,  the  navigator  is  tempted  to  run  up  the  bay, 
in  which  case  he  should  still  keep  on  the  western  shore  of 
the  Pearl  islands,  where  anchorage  and  less  current  will  be 
found  should  the  wind  fail,  an  event  always  to  be  expected 
in  these  regions." 

Observations  of  Commander  James  Wood  ; — "  The  passage 
from  the  southward  to  Panama  bay  is  easily  made  during 
the  greater  part  of  the  year ;  but  in  the  fine  season,  when 
within  the  influence  of  the  northers,  the  following  plan 
should  be  adopted :  Make  short  tacks  inshore,  as  there  is 
generally  a  set  to  the  northward  found  within  a  few  miles  of 
.  the  land,  and  where  that  is  interrupted,  a  regular  tide  is 
exchanged  for  a  constantly  contrary  current  farther  off. 
Between  Chirambira  point  and  cape  Corrientes  the  laud  is 
low  and  faced  with  shoals,  caused  by  the  mouths  of  the  nu- 
merous rivers  which  have  their  outlets  on  this  part  of  the 
coast 5  but  after  passing  cape  Corrientes,  it  may  be  ap- 
proached pretty  closely,  except  off  Francisco  Solano  point, 
where  some  rocky-shoal  patches  extend  to  seaward,  as  the 
coast  is  in  general  bold-to.  Care,  however,  should  be  taken 


FROM  CALLAO  TO  MEXICO.  103 

not  to  run  into  the  calms  caused  by  the  highlands,  as  it  is 
difficult  to  get  off  into  the  breeze  again,  and  the  swells  set 
inshore,  where  it  frequently  happens  that  no  anchorage  is 
to  be  found  till  close  to  the  rocks. 

"  In  beating  up  the  bay  of  Panama,  in  the  fine  season, 
the  eastern  passage,  or  that  between  the  Islas  del  Key  and 
the  main,  is  to  be  preferred,  as,  with  one  exception,  it  is  free 
from  dangers.  The  water  is  smooth,  and  a  regular  tide  en- 
ables you  to  make  more  northing  than  it  would  be  possible 
to  do,  in  nine  cases  out  of  ten,  against  the  strong  current 
and  short,  high  sea  which  at  this  season  prevail  in  the  cen- 
ter or  on  the  western  side.  During  the  rainy  season  a 
straight  course  up  the  bay  is  preferable  to  entangling  your- 
self with  the  islands,  the  current  generally  following  the 
direction  of  the  wind." 

§  55.  EOUTE  FROM  CALLAO  TO  GUATEMALA  AND  MEX- 
ICO.— After  leaving  Callao  and  entering  the  SE.  trades,  first 
steer  for  point  Aguja,  (vide  §  54.)  Then  if  bound  to  Eealejo 
or  Istapa,  shape  the  course  so  as  to  cross  the  equator  be- 
tween 85°  and  88°  W.  But  if  the  destination  be  Acapulco, 
San  Bias,  or  Mazatlan,  it  is  best  to  pass  to  the  southward 
and  westward  of  the  Galapagos  islands  with  the  prevalent 
SE.  winds.  In  this  case  the  line  should  be  crossed  between 
the  meridians  96°  and  100°  W. 

The  last  part  of  the  voyage,  from  the  equator  to  the  port 
of  destination,  is  the  worst.  Instructions  were  given  in  §  49, 
on  the  route  from  the  line  to  the  principal  ports  of  Guate- 
mala and  Mexico,  to  which  the  reader  should  refer.  The 
following  example  of  a  passage  between  Callao  and  the  coast 
of  Guatemala  is  taken  from  the  remarks  of  Captain  Harvey, 
of  H.  M.  S.  Havana,  (Naut.  Mag.,  Nov.,  1860 :) 

u  Leaving  Callao,  we  stood  well  out  from  the  land,  cur- 
rent in  our  favor.  In  7°  30'  S.  and  83°  W.,  we  had  as  much 
as  36  miles  K.  72°  W. ;  and  in  the  same  afternoon  we  were 
running  through  patches  of  brick-colored  water.  At  noon 
on  the  29th,  in  lat.  1°  6'  K.,  long.  86°  54'  W.,  we  ran  through 
a  strong  tide  rip,  extending  NW.  and  SE.  as  far  as  could  be 
seen.  It  was  most  distinctly  marked,  the  water  to  the 
southward  having  a  greener  color.  The  temperature  before 
entering  it  was  72° ;  when  500  yards  farther,  and  inside  or 
north  of  the  line,  it  was  78°  ;  at  half  past  twelve  it  was  80°. 
Up  to  this  we  had  had  a  current  to  the  NW.  by  W.  of  more 


104  FROM  CALLAO  TO  SAN  FRANCISCO. 

than  a  mile  an  hour;  but  now  we  had  less,  about  half  a 
mile  an  hour,  and  in  a  more  northerly  direction.  The  next 
day  the  wind  shifted  to  WSW.,  and  we  lost  the  trade  in  3° 
19'  1ST.  and  87°  34'  W.  amid  thunder-storms  and  squalls  of 
rain. 

"  On  the  1st  May  Cocos  island  was  seen  from  the  mast- 
head, bearing  E!NE.  ;  and  tropic  birds  and  black  fish  came 
about  the  ship.  After  dallying  with  calms  and  westerly 
winds  from  the  1st  to  the  6th,  we  were  treated  with  a  fine 
easterly  breeze  and  a  current  to  the  W.  by  N.  of  38  miles. 
We  concluded  that  it  was  the  end  of  a  papagayo,  and  for 
several  days  after  we  had  the  usual  Central  American 
weather.  On  the  llth  we  found  ourselves  inshore  looking 
about  for  Istapa.  The  Guatemala  peaks  could  not  be  seen, 
and  the  shore  showed  us  nothing  but  one  unbroken  line  of 
beach  and  trees,  with  a  heavy  surf;  but  in  the  evening  we 
had  the  satisfaction  of  making  out  El  Agua,  or  Water  vol- 
cano, the  east  center  peak  of  the  range.  The  next  morn- 
ing, on  standing  in,  we  observed  three  vessels  at  anchor  to 
the  westward,  and  running  down  to  them  came  to  in  13£ 
fathoms,  thinking  that  we  had  reached  Istapa.  The  first 
visitors  informed  us  of  our  mistake  and  that  we  were  really 
at  San  Jose  de  Guatemala." 

§  56.  ROUTE  FROM  CALLAO  TO  SAN  FRANCISCO.  —  The 
passage  from  Callao  to  the  equator  can  be  accomplished 
with  a  leading  or  fair  wind.  The  line  should  be  crossed  west 
of  the  Galapagos  islands,  though  it  is  not  necessary  to  keep 
as  far  to  the  westward  as  advised  in  §  50. 
in  January,  During  these  months  the  equator  should  be  reached  near 

l 


vessels  will  have  the  SE.  trades,  and  only  4  per  cent,  of 
calms  north  of  the  line.  After  striking  the  NE.  trades,  at 
about  10°  K,  steer  a  trifle  free,  and  cross  20°  N.  about  127° 
W.,  as  farther  to  the  eastward,  and  near  120°  W.,  the  wind 
is  sure  to  haul  to  the  northward.  Nothing  will  therefore 
be  gained  by  hugging  the  wind,  as  eventually  more  westing 
will  result,  and  the  voyage  be  lengthened. 

The  last  part  of  the  voyage  is  the  same  as  that  described 
in  §  50. 

in  -April,  May,     In  April,  May,  and  June  strike  across  the  prevalent  SE. 
trades,  and  reach  the  equator  between  108°  and  113°  W.r 


FROM  PANAMA  TO  MEXICO.  105 

and  10°  N.  at  about  120°  W. ;  thence  continue  according  to 
the  directions  given  in  §  50. 

In  July,  August,  and  September,  sailing-ships  leaving  pu^  Jjjjr.  ^n- 
Callao  should  follow  the  same  route  as  vessels  coming  from  tember. 
cape  Horn ;  that  is,  they  should  not  cross  the  equator  to 
the  eastward  of  125°  W.    By  keeping  on  this  route  they 
will  have  steady  SE.  trades  until  they  reach  10°  K,  which 
should  be  crossed  at  130°  W.    The  remainder  of  the  pas- 
sage should  be  made  as  described  in  §  50. 

In  October,  November,  and  December  cross  the  line  near  veSi2?Ii0imdt  D^ 
1080;  an(i  IQO  jf.  between  118°  and  120°  W.,  with  steady  cemb«r' 
SE.  trades.    After  this  keep  a  little  free  with  the  NE.  wind. 
Ships  generally  run  from  one  set  of  trades  to  the  other 
without  any  intervening  calm.    This  passage  should  also 
be  finished  according  to  the  instructions  given  in  §  50. 

§  57.  EOUTE  FROM  PAYTA  OR  GUAYAQUIL  TO  PANAMA.— 
We  recall  this  route  only  from  memory.  In  §  54  instruc- 
tion will  be  found  for  making  the  passage  from  Callao  to 
Panama,  which  also  apply  for  the  voyage  from  Payta  or 
Guayaquil  to  the  same  destination. 

§  58.  EOUTE  FROM  PAYTA  OR  GUAYAQUIL  TO  SAN  FRAN- 
CISCO.— It  will  be  advantageous  at  all  seasons  to  keep  to 
the  southward  and  westward  of  the  Galapagos  islands. 
Cross  the  equator  in  the  same  manner  as  described  in  §  56. 
Complete  instructions  for  the  route  north  of  the  line  will  be 
found  in  both  §  56  and  §  50. 

§  59.  EOUTE  FROM  PANAMA  TO  MEXICO. — It  is  exceed- 
ingly difficult  to  determine  which  is  the  best  route  between 
Panama  and  the  Mexican  ports.  Calms  (vide  §  1)  and  light 
baffling  airs  often  make  the  passage  excessively  long ;  and, 
coasters  excepted,  ships  without  steam  should,  if  possible, 
avoid  making  this  passage. 

According  to  Fitz-Eoy's  instructions  vessels  can  only  go 
up  the  coast  by  keeping  near  land,  after  doubling  cape 
Mala,  and  by  making  use  of  the  land  and  sea  breezes.  But 
the  voyage  should  not  be  attempted  at  all,  except  by  good 
ships  with  a  large  crew,  unless  the  destination  is  one  of  the 
ports  of  Central  America,  and  then  only  because  it  is  the 
only  one  to  take. 

Commander  James  Wood  says :   "  If  bound  to  the  west-    From   Decem- 
ward  during  the  season  of  northers,  a  great  deal  of  time  may 
be  saved  by  keeping  close  inshore,  and  thus  taking  ad  van- 


106  FROM  THE  GALAPAGOS  ISLANDS  TO  CAPE  SAN  LUCAS. 

tage  of  them ;  they  will  carry  you  as  far  as  the  gulf  of  Ni- 
coya.  When  past  the  Morne  Hermoso,  *  papagayos '  may 
be  looked  for,  and  with  them  a  course  should  be  steered 
for  the  gulf  of  Tehuantepec,  when  it  will  depend  on  the 
port  you  are  bound  to  whether,  after  crossing  the  gulf  by 
the  aid  of  one  of  its  gales,  you  should  keep  in  or  off  shore. 
If  bound  for  Acapulco,  keep  in  and  beat  up ;  but  if  bound 
to  the  westward,  you  cannot  do  better  than  make  a  W. 
course  as  nearly  as  the  winds  will  allow  you. 
May  to  "Tne  passage  to  the  westward  from  Panama  during  the 
rainy  season  is  a  most  tedious  affair ;  calms,  squalls,  con- 
trary winds,  and  currents,  a  heavy  swell  and  extreme  heat, 
as  well  as  an  atmosphere  loaded  with  moisture  and  rain,  are 
the  daily  accompaniments.  It  often  occurs  that  20  miles  of 
westing  are  not  made  in  a  week,  and  it  is  only  by  the  indus- 
trious use  of  every  squall  and  slant  of  wind  that  the  passage 
can  be  made  at  all.  Opinions  are  divided  among  the  coast- 
ers as  to  the  propriety  of  working  to  the  southward,  and 
trying  to  get  rid  of  the  bad  weather,  or  beating  up  within 
a  moderate  distance  of  the  land.  My  experience  would  lead 
me  to  prefer  the  latter,  as  the  strong  winds  and  frequent 
squalls,  which  so  often  occur  near  the  land,  sometimes  allow 
a  good  long  leg  to  be  made  to  the  northwestward,  while, 
farther  off,  this  advantage  is  sacrificed  for  only  a  shade 
finer  weather." 

These  instructions  will  be  completed  by  referring  to  §§  1, 
23,  and  24.    §§  60,  61,  and  62  should  also  be  consulted. 

§  60.  KOXJTE  FROM  THE  GALAPAGOS  ISLANDS  TO  CAPE  SAN 

LUCAS. — Commander  Wood  gives  the  following  instructions 
for  this  passage :  "  The  trade- wind  seems  to  possess  no 
steady  influence  to  the  eastward  of  a  line  drawn  from  cape 
San  Lucas,  in  23°  ET.,  to  the  Galapagos  islands  on  the  equa- 
tor. Among  these  islands  the  southeastern  trade-wind  is 
steady  during  nine  or  ten  months  of  the  year,  and  it  is  only 
in  January  and  February,  and  sometimes  in  March,  that 
they  are  interrupted  by  long  calms,  and  occasional  breezes 
from  north  and  northwest,  but  these  are  never  of  any 
strength.  To  the  northward  of  them  the  eastern  limit  of 
the  trade  seems  to  depend  upon  the  time  of  the  year.  In 
the  early  part  of  April  I  have  found  it  between  the  paral- 
lels of  8°  and  13°  K,  900  to  1,000  miles  farther  to  the  east- 
ward than  at  the  end  of  June ;  and  in  the  intermediate 


PROM  PANAMA  TO  REALEJO.  107 

months,  cither  more  or  less  to  the  eastward,  as  it  was 
earlier  or  later  in  the  season,  but  in  no  case  that  I  have  met 
with  has  a  steady  or  regular  trade  been  experienced  until 
the  above  line  has  been  reached.  It  is  this  circumstance, 
and  the  prevalence  in  the  intermediate  space  of  westerly 
winds,  calms,  and  contrary  currents,  that  makes  the  passage 
from  Panama  to  the  westward,  as  far  as  this  line,  so  tedious. 
I  have  been  40  days  beating  from  the  entrance  of  the  bay, 
in  80°  W.,  to  the  eastern  edge  of  the  trade,  in  HIP  W.,  a 
distance  of  less  than  2,000  miles,  or,  on  an  average,  about 
40  miles  per  day." 

§  61.  EOUTE  FROM  PANAMA  TO  EEALEJO,  AND  FROM 
REALEJO  TO  ACAPULCO.— Below  will  be  found  Captain 
Basil  Hall's  observations  relative  to  the  passages  from  Pan- 
ama to  Eealejo  and  Acapulco.  We  would  also  refer  the 
reader  to  §  59  for  further  information  on  this  subject: 

"  On  leaving  Panama  for  Eealejo,  come  out  direct  to  the 
northwestward  of  the  Pearl  islands ;  keep  from  60  to  90 
miles  off  the  shore  as  far  as  cape  Blanco,  (gulf  of  Nicoya  5) 
and  on  this  passage  advantage  must  be  taken  of  every  shift 
of  wind  to  get  to  the  northwestward.  From  cape  Blanco 
hug  the  shore,  in  order  to  take  advantage  of  the  north- 
easterly winds  which  prevail  close  in.  If  a  papagayo  (as 
the  strong  breeze  out  of  that  gulf  is  called)  be  met  with, 
the  passage  to  Eealejo  becomes  very  short. 

"  From  Eealejo  to  Acapulco  keep  at  the  distance  of  60, 
or,  at  most,  90  miles  from  the  coast.  We  met  with  very 
strong  currents  running  to  the  eastward  at  this  part  of  the 
passage ;  but  whether,  by  keeping  farther  in,  or  farther  out, 
we  should  have  avoided  them,  I  am  unable  to  say.  The 
above  direction  is  that  usually  held  to  be  the  best  by  the 
old  coasters. 

"  If,  when  off  the  gulf  of  Tehuantepec,  any  of  the  hard 
breezes,  which  go  by  that  name,  should  come  off,  it  is  ad- 
visable, if  sail  can  be  carried,  to  ease  the  sheets  off,  and 
run  well  to  the  westward,  without  seeking  to  make  north- 
ing ;  westing  being,  at  all  stages  of  that  passage,  by  far  the 
most  difficult  to  accomplish.  On  approaching  Acapulco 
the  shore  should  be  got  hold  of,  and  the  land  and  sea 
breezes  turned  to  account. 

"  This  passage  in  summer  is  to  be  made  by  taking  advan- 
tage of  the  difference  in  direction  between  the  winds  in  the 
night  and  the  winds  in  the  day.  During  some  months,  the 


108  FROM  EEALEJO  TO  ACAPULCO. 

land  winds,  it  is  said,  come  more  off  the  land  than  at  others, 
and  that  the  sea-breezes  blow  more  directly  on  shore ;  but 
in  March  we  seldom  found  a  greater  difference  than  four 
points;  and  to  profit  essentially  by  this  small  change,  con- 
stant vigilance  and  activity  are  indispensable.  The  sea- 
breeze  sets  in  with  very  little  variation  as  to  time,  about 
noon,  or  a  little  before,  and  blows  with  more  or  less  strength 
till  the  evening.  It  was  usually  freshest  at  two  o'clock, 
gradually  fell  after  four,  and  died  away  as  the  sun  went 
down.  The  land-breeze  was  by  no  means  so  regular  as  to 
its  periods  or  its  force.  Sometimes  it  came  off  in  the  first 
watch,  but  rarely  before  midnight,  and  often  not  till  the 
morning,  and  was  then  generally  light  and  uncertain.  The 
principal  point  to  be  attended  to  in  this  navigation  is  to 
have  the  ship  so  placed  at  the  setting  in  of  the  sea-breeze 
that  she  shall  be  able  to  make  use  of  the  whole  of  it  on  the 
port  tack,  before  closing  too  much  with  the  land.  If  this 
be  accomplished,  which  a  little  experience  of  the  periods 
renders  easy,  the  ship  will  be  near  the  shore  just  as  the  sea- 
breeze  has  ended,  and  then  she  will  remain  in  the  best  sit- 
uation to  profit  by  the  land  wind  when  it  comes,  for  it  not 
only  comes  off  earlier  to  a  ship  near  the  coast,  but  is  stronger, 
and  may  always  be  taken  advantage  of  to  carry  the  ship  off 
to  the  sea-breeze  station  before  noon  the  next  day. 

u  These  are  the  best  directions  for  navigating  on  this 
coast  which  I  have  been  able  to  procure ;  they  are  drawn 
from  various  sources,  and,  whenever  it  was  possible,  modi- 
fied by  personal  experience.  I  am  chiefly  indebted  to  Don 
Manuel  Luzerragui  for  the  information  they  contain.  In  his 
opinion,  were  it  required  to  make  a  passage  from  Panama  to 
San  Bias,  without  touching  at  any  intermediate  port,  the 
best  way  would  be  to  stretch  well  out,  pass  to  the  south- 
ward of  Cocos  island,  and  then  run  in  with  the  south- 
erly winds  as  far  west  as  96°  before  hauling  up  for  San  Bias, 
so  as  to  make  a  fair  wind  of  the  westerly  breezes  which  be- 
long to  the  coast.  An  experienced  old  pilot,  however,  whom 
I  met  at  Panama,  disapproved  of  this,  and  said  the  best 
distance  was  50  or  60  miles  all  the  way.  In  the  winter 
months  these  passages  are  very  unpleasant,  and  it  is  indis- 
pensable that  the  whole  navigation  be  much  farther  off 
shore,  excepting  only  between  Acapulco  and  San  Bias,  when 
a  distance  of  30  or  35  miles  will  be  sufficient." 


FROM  PANAMA.  TO  SAN  FRANCISCO.  109 

§  02.  ROUTE  FROM  PANAMA  TO  SAN  FRANCISCO.— The 
following  is  a  resume  of  Maury's  instructions  for  this  route: 

"The  passage  under  canvas  from  Panama  to  California, 
as  at  present  made,  is  one  of  the  most  tedious  known  to 
navigators. 

"  From  the  bay  of  Panama  make  the  best  of  your  way 
south,  keeping  near  80°  W.,  until  you  get  between  5°  N. 
and  the  equator.  After  crossing  5°  N.,  make  a  SW.  course 
if  the  winds  allow ;  if  the  wind  be  S  W.,  brace  up  on  the  star-  . 
board  tack  ;  but  if  it  be  SSW.,  stand  west,  if  it  be  a  good 
working  breeze.  But  if  it  be  light  and  baffling,  with  rain, 
know  that  you  are  in  the  doldrums,  and  the  quickest  way 
to  clear  them  is  by  making  all  you  can  on  a  due  south 
course." 

Speaking  of  the  barometer  in  the  Pacific,  Maury  says : 

"  The  mean  height  in  the  equatorial  calms  is  less  than  the 
mean  height  in  the  trades  on  either  side.  This  difference 
does  not  probably  exceed  one-tenth  of  an  inch  (0.1  inch.) 
But  close  attention  to  the  barometer  in  and  about  these 
calms  will  often  enable  the  navigator  to  decide  whether  the 
winds  he  may  have  be  really  trade-winds  or  not  ;  for,  after 
having  been  fighting  these  calms,  if  you  get  the  wind  from. 
NE.  or  SB.,  as  the  case  may  be,  and  the  barometer  rises, 
then  you  may  be  sure  that  you  have  the  trades.  In  the 
calms  of  Cancer  and  of  Capricorn  there  is  a  descending  in- 
stead of  an  ascending  current  of  air;  therefore  the  barome- 
ter ranges  higher,  on  the  average,  within  those  two  calm- 
belts  than  it  does  anywhere  else.  The  difference,  however, 
does  not  exceed  the  tenth  of  an  inch.  Close  attention  to 
this  instrument  will  often  enable  the  navigator  to  decide, 
when  he  has  crossed  this  belt  and  got  into  the  region  of 
trades,  even  before  he  gets  the  wind  from  the  trade-quarter. 
He  determines  this  by  the  fall  of  the  barometer,  when  he 
enters  the  trades  from  the  calms  of  the  "  horse-latitudes," 
but  by  its  rise  when  he  enters  the  trades  from,  the  equatorial 
calm-belt. 

"Suppose  that  after  crossing  5°  N.  you  have  got  to  the  Ja^°^y June  to 
west  of  85°  without  having  crossed  the  equator.  Now,  if 
the  time  of  the  year  be  in  that  half  which  embraces  July  and 
December,  the  prevailing  winds  will  be  between  SE.  and  S. 
inclusive,  and  the  course  is  west  as  long  as  there  is  a  breeze; 
as  soon  as  the  breeze  dies,  and  you  begin  to  fight  the  baf- 


110  FROM  PANAMA  TO  SAN  FRANCISCO. 

fling  airs,  conclude  that  you  are  in  the  vicinity  of  the  dol- 
drums that  are  often  found  here,  either  between  the  NE. 
and  SE.  trades,  or  between  one  of  these  trades  and  the  sys- 
tem of  southwardly  monsoons  that  blow  north  of  the  line, 
and  between  the  coast  and  the  meridian  of  95°  W.  These 
belts  of  doldrums  lie  east  and  west,  and  the  shortest  way  to 
cross  them  is  by  a  due  north  and  south  line.  Having 
crossed  95°  W.,  stand  away  to  the  northward  and  westward 
with  a  free  wind,  and  after  reaching  100°  W.,  aim  to  pass 
some  distance  from  Clipperton. 

"  If  the  passage  from  Panama  be  attempted  in  January, 
February,  March,  April,  May,  or  June,  time  will  probably 
be  saved  by  going  south  of  the  equator,  for  at  this  half  of 
the  year  the  KE.  trades  and  the  equatorial  doldrums  are 
often  found  between  0°  and  5°  IS".  Between  the  meridians 
of  80°  and  85°  W.,  in  this  part  of  the  ocean,  these  winds 
and  calms  are  found  even  in  the  mouths  of  July  and  August. 
The  navigator  should  therefore  run  south  of  the  Galapagos 
islands,  and  not  cross  the  equator  again  to  the  northward 
before  he  reaches  105°  W.  Aim  to  cross  10°  K.  at  120°  W., 
when  the  NE.  trades  will  probably  be  found. 

"  West  of  longitude  100°,  and  between  the  parallels  of  5° 
and  10°  N.,  the  winds  Jin  the  months  of  November  and  De- 
cember are  variable  between  NE.  and  S.  by  way  of  the  east. 
In  January,  February,  and  March  they  are  quite  steady  as 
NE.  trades.  In  April  they  are  variable.  The  doldrums  are 
generally  found  between  those  parallels  in  this  month. 
During  the  rest  of  the  year  the  winds  are  all  the  time  be- 
tween SE.  and  SW. 

"  It  will  be  well  to  cross  the  parallel  of  10°  N.  at  least  as 
far  west  as  the  meridians  of  105°  or  110°  W.  Here  be- 
tween the  parallels  5°  and  10°  N.  the  winds  in  November 
are  steady  from  SSE.  and  S.  December,  April,  and  May, 
are  the  months  for  the  doldrums  in  this  part  of  the  ocean. 
Having  crossed  the  parallel  of  10°  N.  between  105°  and  110° 
W.,  the  navigator  is  then  in  the  fair  way  to  California. 

"  In  making  the  west  coasts  of  Mexico  and  the  United 
States,  the  kelp  is  said  to  form  an  excellent  landmark. 
This  weed  is  very  long,  and  grows  in  the  rocks  at  the  bot- 
tom. When,  therefore,  on  approaching  the  coast,  you  come 
across  lines  or  swaths  of  tangled  kelp,  its  being  tangled  or 
matted  is  a  sign  that  it  is  adrift.  But  when  you  come 


FROM  PANAMA  TO  SAN  FRANCISCO.  Ill 

across  it  tailing  out  straight,  it  is  then  fast  to  the  rocks  at 
the  bottom,  and  it  is  dangerous  to  get  among  it. 

"Vessels  with  steam-power  should  steam  whenever 
necessary,  after  leaving  Panama,  and  aim  to  cross  the  line 
near  85°  W.  Thence  the  route  lies  either  to  northward  or 
southward  of  the  Galapagos,  according  to  the  season.  The 
remainder  of  the  voyage  can  be  easily  made  under  canvas." 

Such  are  Maury's  instructions.  The  following  abstract  is 
also  eloquent  upon  the  same  subject : 

"  Passage  of  the  Havana,  Captain  Harvey,  from  Panama  to 
San  Francisco. — July  27th,  sailed  from  the  anchorage  off' 
the  island  of  Taboga,  for  San  Francisco.  On  the  1st 
August,  in  lat.  2°  30'  K,  the  land  obliged  us  to  tack  off. 
On  the  6th  we  passed  four  miles  to  the  southward  of  the 
position  of  Eivadera  shoal,  continued  westward,  although 
forced  northward,  until  the  10th,  when  we  tacked  to  make 
southing. 

"  On  the  21st  sighted  Clipperton  island,  bearing  W.  by 
N.  J  N".  Hauled  up  to  pass  south  of  it,  and  stood  along  the 
island,  trying  for  soundings,  but  no  bottom  at  150  and  180 
fathoms,  two  miles  distant.  It  was  covered  with  myriads 
of  birds,  abundance  of  large  drift-wood  and  pieces  of  wreck. 
On  the  north  side  the  sea  was  much  less,  and  landing  was 
apparently  easy  in  whale-boats.  The  island  is  correctly 
stated  as  being  visible  between  12  and  15  miles,  but  it  is  a 
formidable  danger,  and  a  wide  berth  should  always  be  given 
to  it  at  night.  On  the  24th  August,  in  lat.  14°  11'  N.,  long. 
114°  IS'  W.,  picked  up  the  trade-wind  after  only  a  few 
hours  of  variables.  In  lat.  34°  30'  N.,  long.  140°  06'  W., 
we  tacked  to  make  easting,  as  the  wind  was  hauling  more 
northerly;  and  made  the  Farralon  light  at  three  in  the 
morning  of  September  15th,  and  were  soon  after  in  the 
midst  of  fog.  Anchored  in  San  Francisco  harbor  at  four 
p.  m.,  having  been  forty-nine  days  twenty  hours  on  our 
voyage. 

"  This  passage  is  at  all  times  a  trying  one,  lasting  fre- 
quently 60,  70,  and  even  more  than  100  days.  Vessels 
formerly  took  the  inshore  track,  which  may  occasionally 
succeed.  But  by  following  Maury,  the  heavy  rains,  excess- 
ive heat,  and  doldrums  certain  to  be  met  with  inshore  are 
avoided,  perhaps  entirely,  but  certainly  to  a  very  consider- 
able extent.  The  U.  S.  frigate  Independence  arrived  on 


112  MEXICO  TO  SAN  FRANCISCO. 

October  1st,  fifty-nine  days  froin  Panama.    The  shortest 
passage  on  record  is  45  days." 

§  63.  KOTJTE  FROM  MEXICO  TO  SAN  FRANCISCO. —  Cap- 
tain Sherard  Osborrts  instructions  : — "  A  vessel  making  the 
passage  northward  from  San  Bias  had  better  make  an  in- 
shore tack  until  she  reaches  the  latitude  of,  or  sights,  cape 
San  Lucas,  as  she  will  then  get  the  true  wind,  which  blows 
almost  without  intermission  along  the  line  of  coast  from  the 
northward.  A  west,  or  may  be  south  of  west  course  will 
only  be  first  made  good,  but  as  the  offing  is  obtained,  the 
wind  will  be  found  to  veer  a  little  to  the  eastward.  How- 
ever, it  will  always  be  the  object  to  make  headway,  and 
get  out  of  the  tropic  without  any  reference  to  the  longitude, 
as  a  strong  NW.  wind  will  soon  in  lat.  25°  or  28°  run  off 
the  distance,  provided  you  have  sufficient  northing. 

"The  attempt  to  beat  up  inshore  amounts  to  perfect 
folly,  if  it  does  not  deserve  a  worse  name,  a  strong  current 
accompanying  the  wind  ;  and  the  latter  must  be  taken  into 
consideration  when  running  in  for  your  port  with  westerly 
winds." 

Commander  James  Wood's  instructions  : — "  When  once 
within  the  influence  of  the  trades,  a  passage  is  easily  made 
either  to  the  southward,  westward,  or  northward ;  but  it 
must  be  borne  in  mind  that  the  eastern  verge  of  this  trade 
seems,  in  these  parts,  to  be  influenced  by  the  seasons,  (vide 
§  60.)  Thus  in  June  and  July,  I  found  it  fresh  from  KN"W., 
and  even  at  times  NW.,  as  far  out  as  the  meridian  of  125° 
W.,  whereas  in  March  and  April  it  was  light  from  NETE.  to 
E.  and  ESE.  from  our  first  meeting  it  in  98°  W.  till  past 
the  meridian  of  cape  San  Lucas  in  110°  W.,  where  I  picked 
up  a  good  steady  breeze  from  NNE. 

"  As  a  general  rule  the  wind  is  found  to  haul  more  to  the 
eastward  as  you  get  farther  from  the  land,  and  I  did  not 
find  this  rule  affected  by  the  latitude,  as,  although,  as  I 
have  stated,  the  wind  hangs  to  the  northward,  and  even  at 
times  to  the  westward  of  north,  near  the  eastern  limit  of 
the  trade,  from  the  tropic  of  Cancer  to  the  variables  near 
the  equator,  I  found  it  about  the  meridian  of  the  Sandwich 
islands  as  far  to  the  eastward  on  and  near  the  line  as  it 
was  in  35°  K.,  in  which  latitude  the  westerly  winds  are  in 
general  met  with." 


MEXICAN  PORTS  TO   SAN  FRANCISCO.  113 

The  following  remarks  may  be  added  to  the  advice  given 
by  Captains  Osborn  and  Wood : 

A  vessel  sailing  from  one  of  the  ports  of  Mexico  or  Guat- 
emala, should  gain  the  NE.  trades  as  soon  as  possible. 
When  they  are  reached  keep  the  ship  a  little  free  on  a 
NNW.  course,  until  the  brave  west  winds  are  found  to 
northward  of  the  parallel  of  San  Francisco. 

Vessels  leaving  Mazatlan  during  these  months  will  have    in  January, 
quite  fr6sh  winds  varying  between  N.  and  W. ;  with  these  MwSSf7' 
they  can  easily  pass  to  the  northward  of  the  Revillagigedo 
islands. 

Ships  leaving  San  Bias  can  also  fetch  to  the  northward 
of  these  islands,  by  making  up  the  coast  on  the  land  tack 
if  necessary.  After  they  have  crossed  the  meridian  of  120° 
W.  between  20°  and  24°  N.,  they  will  enter  the  region  of 
steady  NE.  trades. 

During  the  same  season,  vessels  leaving  Acapulco  will 
have  at  first  6  per  cent,  of  calms  and  variable  NE.  and  NW. 
winds.  They  should  make  as  much  to  the  westward  as  pos- 
sible, and  will  meet  the  NE.  trades  beyond  and  near  110° 
W.  After  this  they  should  run  a  little  free  on  the  star- 
board tack  and  end  the  voyage  as  already  described. 

Ships  leaving  Istapa  and  Eealejo  should  steer  as  nearly 
as  possible  SW.,  with  the  prevalent  NE.  wind,  and  thus 
reach  8°  or  7°  N.  near  93°  W.  Thence  the  course  should 
be  due  west  to  108°  W.,  the  wind  being  quite  fresh  from  SE. 
After  crossing  this  meridian  vessels  should  begin  to  bear 
to  the  northward,  and  cross  10°  N.  near  111°  or  112°  W. 
The  NE.  trades  will  be  found  in  this  locality. 

Ships  coming  from  San  Bias  or  Mazatlan  during  these  in  April,  May, 
months  will  do  well  to  beat  up  against  the  NW.  winds,  asai 
advised  by  Sherard  Osborn,  as  far  as  cape  San  Lucas. 
They  should  then  keep  close  to  the  wind — which  will  be 
variable  and  from  N.  to  W.,  mainly  from  NW. — standing 
well  out  to  sea  on  the  starboard  tack.  Nothing  will  be 
gained  by  crossing  120°  W.  to  the  northward  of  20°  N.,  as 
beyond  this  parallel  the  wind  hauls  more  to  N.,  while  to  the 
southward  it  inclines  toward  NE.  In  all  cases  the  wind  will 
become  more  and  more  favorable  to  the  westward,  enabling 
vessels  to  gradually  bear  away  to  the  northward  for  the 
region  of  west  winds. 

Vessels  leaving  Acapulco  at  this  season  are  liable  to  be 
detained  by  numerous  calms,  (vide  §  1,)  and  NW.  to  NE. 
8N 


114  MEXICAN  PORTS   TO   SAN  FRANCISCO. 

winds.  They  should  therefore  run  to  the  southward  and 
westward  for  the  SE.  trades,  near  10°  or  8°  N.  Good  way 
may  be  made  to  the  westward,  near  these  parallels,  and  to 
118°  W. ;  when,  bear  to  the  northward  and  cross  10°  N.  near 
120°  W.  Here  vessels  usually  run  into  the  trades  without 
meeting  any  calms. 

The  course  from  Istapa  or  Eealejo  to  8°  or  7°  N.  and  92° 
W.  is  SSW.  or  S.  Vessels  will  here  strike  the  southerly  or 
south-easterly  wind  and  then  should  steer  due  west,  the  SE. 
wind  freshening  as  they  go^  to  the  westward.  Near  118°  W. 
they  should  begin  to  make  northing,  probably  meeting  the 
NE.  trades  at  10°  N.  and  120°  W. 

in  July,  AU-  Ships  sailing  from  Mazatlan  or  San  Bias,  during  July, 
gust,  and  Septem- ^-^g^  or  September,  should  take  the  route  given  for  the 
preceding  season  5  the  circumstances  attending  the  passage 
will,  however,  be  more  unfavorable,  the  calms  more  numer- 
ous, (vide  §  1,)  and  the  baffling  airs  from  NW.  more  fre- 
quent. Vessels  with  steam-power  will  therefore  have  a 
great  advantage,  as  they  can  steam  to  cape  San  Lucas. 

During  this  season  it  will  be  greatly  to  the  advantage  of 
sailing-vessels  leaving  Acapuico,  Istapa,  and  Eealejo,  to 
make  for  the  SE.  trades,  to  the  southward  of  10°  N. 
Steamers,  while  they  should  take  advantage  of  every  puff 
of  wind  that  may  help  them  on  their  course  to  W.  or  NW., 
should  keep  up  steam  until  they  reach  the  NE.  trades. 

in  October,  xo-     Ships  starting  for  Mazatlan  or  San  Bias  during  this  sea- 

vember,  and  De-  *«    th     *      n  .11  n  n      t     r>        AI 

cember.  son  will  find  almost  the  same  weather  as  that  tor  the  pre- 

ceding three  months;  it  will,  however,  be  a  little  better. 
Those  leaving  Acapuico  should  steer  to  the  westward,  as  in 
Janua'ry,  February,  and  March.  They  will  first  have  light 
variable  winds  from  NE.  to  NW.,  and  be  liable  to  about  9 
per  cent,  of  calms.  The  NE.  trades  blow  beyond  110°  W., 
and  become  steadier  and  steadier  to  the  westward  of  that 
meridian.  Ships  leaving  Istapa  or  Eealejo  should  first 
make  to  the  southward  and  westward,  in  search  of  the  SE. 
trades,  to  the  southward  of  10°  N.  From  the  beginning  of 
the  passage  they  will  generally  have  gentle,  though  varia- 
ble, winds  to  help  them  toward  the  trade- wind  region. 
After  meeting  the  SE.  wind,  good  way  can  be  made  to  the 
west  on  the  parallel  of  8°  N.  Vessels  should  commence  to 
bear  to  the  northward  at  113°  W.,  and  cross  10°  N.  between 
116°  and  118°  W.  After  this  the  NE.  trades  will  be  found, 
when  the  ship  can  be  hauled  up  on  the  starboard  tack. 


FROM  SAN  FRANCISCO  TO  VANCOUVER.  115 

§  64.  EOUTE  FROM  MONTEREY  TO  SAN  FRANCISCO. — 
The  following  instructions  are  from  the  "  V.  S.  C.  fl. 
Reports : " 

"Sailing-vessels  bound  to  the  northward  from  Monterey    raring  the 

summer. 

during  the  summer  season  should  stand  well  oft  shore,  not 
too  close-hauled  until  about  200  miles  from  the  land,  when 
they  will  be  beyond  the  influence  of  the  southerly  current, 
and  in  a  situation  to  take  advantage  of  a  slant  of  wind, 
which  frequently  occurs  from  the  WNW.  They  would  do 
well  not  to  approach  the  land,  unless  favored  by  the  winds 
so  as  to  enable  them  to  lay  their  course,  or  nearly  so,  until 
up  with  the  latitude  of  the  destined  port. 

"  Steamers  should  follow  the  coast  from  point  to  point  as 
nearly  as  possible,  always  keeping  within  15  miles  of  the 
land.  They  will  by  this  means  shorten  the  distance,  and 
frequently  avoid  the  strong  NW.  wind,  as  they  will  often 
find  it  quite  calm  close  in  with  the  shore,  when  there  is  a 
wind  to  seaward. 

"Vessels  bound  to  the  northward  in  the  winter  season    Paring  the 

winter. 

should  keep  as  close  along  the  land  as  practicable,  and  take 
every  advantage  of  all  southerly  winds  to  make  latitude. 
They  should  always  endeavor  to  make  the  land  at  least  20 
or  30  miles  to  the  southward  of  the  destined  harbor." 

§  65.  KOUTES    FROM   SAN   FRANCISCO   TO  VANCOUVER. 

— In  the  last  part  of  §  24  instructions  relating  to  the  pre- 
vailing winds  between  San  Francisco  and  Vancouver  will 
be  found. 

From  November  to  April,  or  during  the  bad  season,  the  From  Novem- 
passage  should  commence  by  putting  well  out  to  sea.  This 
will  generally  be  easy  to  do,  as  the  wind  is  oftenest  from 
NW.  When  far  enough  from  land  to  have  nothing  to  fear 
from  SW.  or  NW.  squalls,  make  as  much  to  the  N.  as  pos- 
sible. Beyond  the  parallel  of  cape  Mendocino  the  SW. 
winds  prevail,  enabling  vessels  to  finish  the  voyage  without 
difficulty. 

From  April  to  November,  or  during  the  good  season,  the  N^re°™b^.pril  to 
wind  almost  invariably  blows  from  the  northward,  between 
NW.  and  NE.  NW.  is  the  favorite  quarter,  though  SW. 
and  SE.  winds  have  been  known  in  this  locality.  After 
leaving  San  Francisco  run  about  100  or  150  miles  off  shore, 
and  then  make  to  the  northward,  profiting  by  every  shift  in 
the  wind,  and  always  standing  on  the  most  favorable  tack. 


CHAPTER  II. 

ROUTES  FROM  NORTH  TO  SOUTH  ON  THE  WESTERN 
COAST  OF  AMERICA. 

§  60.  EOUTES  FROM  VANCOUVER  TO  SAN  FRANCISCO 

AND  MONTEREY. — In  §  24  the  reader  will  find  information 
concerning  the  winds  to  be  expected  on  this  passage. 

The  following  instructions  are  taken  from  the  U.  S.  C. 
S.  Eeports : 

"If  bound  to  the  southward  keep  the  coast  in  sight,  and 
take  advantage  of  either  tack  upon  which  the  most  latitude 
may  be  made,  always  making  the  land  to  the  northward  of 
the  port  in  summer,  and  to  the  southward  in  the  winter 
season. 

"  Bound  to  San  Francisco  or  Monterey,  use  every  oppor- 
tunity to  observe  for  latitude  and  longitude,  so  as  to  know 
the  vessel's  position  up  to  the  latest  moment,  as  fogs  and 
haze,  preventing  observations,  prevail  near  the  land.  Allow 
generally  for  a  southerly  set  of  J  a  mile  per  hour,  until 
within  about  50  miles  of  land;  after  which,  at  times,  it  is 
not  appreciable.  With  these  precautions  vessels  may  steer 
boldly  on,  shaping  a  course  for  the  south  Farallon,  an  islet 
about  250  feet  high  and  a  mile  long,  having  14  fathoms 
water,  and  good  holding-ground  on  the  SE.  side." 
govern-  From  November  to  April,  or  during  the  bad  season,  vessels 
are  liable  to  have  head  winds  from  S  W.,  between  Vancouver 
and  the  parallel  of  cape  Mendocino.  However,  these  winds 
are  variable,  blowing  quite  often  from  NW. ;  the  currents, 
moreover,  are  generally  favorable,  and  consequently  there 
will  be  no  serious  difficulty  to  overcome.  To  the  southward 
of  40°  N.  the  NW.  winds  will  become  more  frequent,  and 
consequently  the  weather  more  propitious. 

From  April  to  From  April  to  November,  or  during  the  good  season,  the 
NW..wind  prevails  from  Vancouver  to  Monterey,  and  even 
beyond  this  point.  This  is  therefore  an  easy  passage  to  be 
made  at  this  season  as  the  current  is  also  favorable.  Keep 
between  50  and  100  miles  of  the  coast,  thus  avoiding  the  fog 


FROM  SAN  FRAK  CISCO  TO  PANAMA.  117 

and  the  anxiety  caused  thereby.  The  wind  frequently 
blows  from  SW.  during  the  morning,  and  from  NW.  during 
the  afternoon. 

§  07.  ROUTE  FROM  SAN  FRANCISCO  TO  MEXICO.— Ships 
leaving  San  Francisco  for  Mazatlan  or  San  Bias  will,  at  all 
seasons,  have  the  wind  and  current  favorable.  The  former 
is  generally  from  the  northward  and  westward  ;  and  from 
December  to  June  is  well  settled  as  far  as  the  port  of  desti- 
nation. 

To  the  southward  of  30°  N.  the  winds  usually  become 
lighter  from  July  to  December.  During  this  season  the 
chances  of  becoming  becalmed  off  the  coast  of  Mexico  are 
greater.  It  will  be  a  good  plan  to  run  in  close  to  cape  San 
Lucas,  and  to  be  careful  that  the  vessel  is  not  set  to  lee- 
ward of  her  port  by  the  current. 

Vessels  bound  to  Acapulco  will  experience  the  same  wind 
and  weather.  Beyond  cape  Corrientes  they  are  liable  to  be 
delayed  by  calms,  particularly  between  June  and  October. 
During  these  months,  which  correspond  to  the  bad  season, 
the  winds  usually  blow  from  NW.,  (vide  §  24,)  but  they  are 
generally  so  light,  and  last  for  such  a  short  time,  that  pa- 
tience only  is  necessary.  Auxiliary  steam-vessels  will, 
therefore,  have  an  immense  advantage  during  the  latter 
part  of  this  voyage,  as  well  as  on  all  the  coast  of  Mexico 
and  Colombia.  During  the  winter,  or  the  good  season,  the 
chances  of  calms  are  less,  and  the  descent  of  the  coast  can 
be  made  with  more  facility,  from,  cape  Corrieutes  to  Aca- 
pulco, or  even  to  Istapa  and  Kealejo. 

§  68.  EOUTE  FROM  SAN  FRANCISCO  TO  PANAMA.— Maury 
says :  "  Vessels  out  of  San  Francisco,  intending  to  touch  at 
Panama  or  any  of  the  ports  south,  should  stand  out  well 
from  the  Mexican  coast.  Information  as  to  the  best  route 
for  these  passages  is  wanting.  But  I  should,  with  such 
information  as  I  at  present  have  with  regard  to  this  navi- 
gation, feel  disposed,  were  I  bound  from  San  Francisco  to 
Panama,  to  steer  straight  for  the  lino  somewhere  about 
104°  W.,  and  stand  on  S.  until  I  could,  with  the  SE.  trades, 
run  in  on  the  starboard  tack  for  the  land.'7 

This  off-shore  route  is  undoubtedly  the  best  for  sailing- 
vessels,  at  least  during  the  rainy  season  of  the  coast  of 
Mexico,  (from  May  to  October.)  Vessels  keeping  near  the 
coast  at  this  time  of  the  year  may  find  themselves,  at  any 


118  FROM  SAN  FRANCISCO   TO  PANAMA. 

moment,  becalmed  or  headed  off  by  the  SE.  winds,  which 
are  quite  frequent.  Auxiliary  steam-vessels  can,  if  need 
be,  use  their  engines,  and  make  good  headway  by  crossing 
20°  K  near  108°  or  109°  W.;  and  10°  IS",  at  about  98°  W. 
To  the  southward  of  10°  X.  they  will  find  quite  settled 
winds  from  S.  and  SE.,  which,  at  times,  shift  to  SW.,  to 
the  eastward  of  88°  W. 

From  May  to  From  May  to  October,  as  has  been  already  said,  sailing- 
vessels  leaving  San  Francisco  should  stand  well  out  to  sea, 
with  the  favorable  NW.  winds.  They  should  steer  so  as  to 
cross  20°  K  near  118°  or  120°  W. ;  then  head  S.  or  SSE., 
with  the  NE.  or  NW.  winds.  If  these  grow  light  it  should 
be  remembered  that  the  wind  is  more  settled  to  the  west- 
ward, and  that  the  chance  of  meeting  calms  is  greater  near 
the  coast.  To  the  southward  of  10°  K.  settled  SE.  trades 
will  be  found.  Here  haul  up  on  the  port  tack,  and  stand 
on  until  sure  of  reaching  Panama,  on  the  starboard  tack, 
when  go  about.  The  Galapagos  islands  can  be  passed  to 
the  northward,  and  90°  W.  near  4°  N.  To  the  eastward 
of  this  proposed  point  of  crossing  the  winds  will  generally 
be  found  to  be  settled  from  SE.  and  S. ;  however,  they  often 
veer  as  far  as  SW. 

From  Kovem-  The  dry  season  on  the  coast  of  Mexico  lasts  from  Novem- 
ber to  April,  when  vessels  should  also  follow  the  off-shore 
route ;  they  should  not,  however,  go  quite  so  far  to  the  west- 
ward at  this  season,  though  it  will  probably  be  found  neces- 
sary to  make  a  little  more  southing.  From  San  Francisco 
to  20°  N.  the  winds  are'  generally  favorable  from  NE.  to 
NW. ;  and  this  route  passes  some  distance  to  the  westward 
of  the  Eevillagigedo  islands.  Below  20°  ]$".  the  NE.  trades 
blow  with  such  regularity  that  10°  N.  can  be  crossed  at 
110°  W.  As  soon  as  the  wind  begins  to  grow  light  steer 
S.  for  the  SE.  trades;  with  which  stand  on  on  the  port  tack 
until  certain  that  the  vessel  will  fetch  to  southward  of  the 
Galapagos  on  the  starboard  tack.  The  starboard  tack  will 
bring  the  ship  near  cape  San  Francisco,  and  the  last  part 
of  the  voyage  will  be  identical  with  that  described  in  §  54 
and  §  57. 

Vessels  with  auxiliary  steam-power  should  cross  20°  N. 
at  109°  or  110°  W.,  and  go  down  the  Mexican  coast  with 
the  prevalent  NW.  winds,  steaming  when  becalmed.  It 
will  be  to  their  advantage  to  cross  10°  K  in  the  neighbor- 


FROM  SAN  FRANCISCO   TO   CALLAO.  119 

hood  of  89°  or  91°  W. ;  but  they  will  afterward  encounter 
SE.  and  S.  winds ;  these  being  often  variable  and  light,  steam 
will  have  to  be  used  to  reach  Panama,  (vide  §  73.) 

§  G9.  EOUTE  FROM  SAN  FRANCISCO  TO  CALLAO. — This 
is  one  of  those  routes  which  Maury  has  studied,  and  for 
which  he  has  given  good  instructions.  We  can  do  no  bet- 
ter than  quote  below  the  principal  passages  : 

"  The  best  route  is  still  undecided. 

"  Many  very  clever  navigators  give  a  decided  preference 
to  the  eastern  passage  from  California ;  but  while  they 
judge,  for  the  most  part,  each  by  his  own  individual  ex- 
perience, I  have  the  experience  of  them  all  to  guide  me  in 
mj-  judgment.  I  think  it  not  at  all  unlikely  that  the  opin- 
ion expressed  by  Captain  Shreve,  of  the  Cleopatra,  may  be 
found,  on  further  investigation,  to  hold  good  for  a.part  of 
the  year.  He  says : 

"  'I  would  advise  all  captains  leaving  San  Francisco  for 
Callao  in  the  months  of  August,  September,  and  October 
to  take  the  inner  passage,  that  is,  being  in  the  long,  of  110° 
W.,  lat.  8°  N.,  steer  along  the  equator  by  the  wind,  passing 
either  side,  or  between  the  Galapagos  islands,  as  the  wind 
will  permit.  Had  I  taken  this  route  instead  of  crossing  the 
SE.  trades,  it  would  have  shortened  my  passage  one  month, 
which  has  been  proved  by  the  West- Wind  and  several  other 
ships  during  the  above  months.  I  inquired  of  several  dis- 
interested captains  as  regards  the  passage  to  Callao ;  all 
advised  crossing  the  SE.  trades.  It  may  do  when  the  sun 
is  far  north.  This  passage  is  little  understood  as  yet.  I 
had  no  difficulty  with  my  ship  (steady  trades)  in  beating 
from  Callao  to  the  Chincha  islands  in  three  days  j  therefore, 
what  difficulty  can  exist  in  beating  from  the  equator  to  Cal- 
lao t> 

u  Individual  cases  may  be  cited  in  favor  of  each  route, 
but  upon  the  whole,  and  with  such  lights  as  I  have,  I  am 
inclined  to  give  the  preference  to  the  western  or  off-shore 
route  as  the  one  which  for  most  of  the  year  and  on  the  long 
run  will  give  the  shortest  average  passage,  and  which  aver- 
age, when  the  route  comes  to  be  properly  understood  and 
followed,  will  probably  be  brought  down  as  low  as  50  or  52 
days  the  year  round. 

"  Most  vessels  on  this  voyage  make  a  mistake,  especially 
in  summer  and  fall,  in  the  passage  across  the  belt  of  KE. 


120  PROM  SAN  FRANCISCO  TO   CALLAO. 

trades.  Being  anxious  to  get  to  the  east,  they  edge  along, 
aiming  to  lose  these  winds  in  90°"  or  100°,  as  the  case  may 
be.  Then  they  encounter  the  southwardly  monsoons  that 
are  found  at  this  season  of  the  year  between  the  systems  of 
trade-winds  in  the  Pacific  off  the  American  coast,  as  they 
are  along  the  African  coast  in  the  Atlantic.  The  vessels 
taking  this  course,  and  being  so  baffled,  have  now  to  make 
a  sharp  elbow  and  run  off  8  or  10  or  even  more  degrees 
to  the  westward  before  they  clear  this  belt  of  calms  and 
monsoons  and  get  the  SE.  trades.  Of  course  the  voyage  is 
greatly  prolonged  by  this. 

"The  route  which,  as  at  present  advised,  I  would  recom- 
mend is  that  navigators  steer  the  same  course  from  Cali- 
fornia that  they  should  if  bound  to  the  United  States,  until 
they  pass  through  the  SE.  trades  and  clear  the  calms  of 
Capricorn.  Therefore  I  say  to  the  Chincha-bound  trader, 
when  you  get  your  offing  from  the '  heads,'  steer  south,  aim- 
ing to  cross  the  line  not  to  the  east  of  115°,  for  the  rule  is 
the  farther  east  the  narder  it  is  to  cross  the  equatorial  dol- 
drums in  the  Pacific,  as  well  as  it  is  in  the  Atlantic. 

"When  you  get  the  SE.  trades,  crack  on  with  topmast 
studding-sail  set,  until  you  get  the ;  brave  west  winds'  on  the 
polar  side  of  the  calms  of  Capricorn.  Now  turn  sharp  off 
from  the  route  around  cape  Horn,  and  run  east  until  you 
bring  your  port  to  bear  to  the  northward  of  NE.,  when  you 
may  4  stick  her  away.'  Now,  by  this  rule,  the  Chincha- 
bound  navigator  may  sometimes,  before  he  gets  these 
westerly  winds,  find  himself  as  far  south  as  40°  or  45°,  and 
as  far  west  as  120°  or  125°.  Let  him  not  fear,  but  stand  on 
until  he  gets  the  winds  that  will  enable  him  to  steer  east,  or 
until  he  intercepts  the  route  from  Australia  to  Callao,  when 
he  may,  without  fear  of  not  fetching,  take  that. 

"  In  the  summer  and  fall  of  the  northern  hemisphere — June 
to  November — the  calm  belt  of  Capricorn  will  be  cleared 
generally  on  the  equatorial  side  of  the  parallel  of  30°  S.;  at 
the  other  seasons  you  will  have  frequently  to  go  6°  or  8° 
farther. 

"On  this  voyage,  navigators,  as  soon  as  they  leave  the 
SE.  trades,  are  often  tempted  by  puffs  and  spirts  of  west- 
erly winds  to  stand  east;  and  thus  time  is  lost  by  running 
east  with  a  4  or  5  knot  breeze  in  the  calm  belt  of  Capricorn. 
They  should  stand  south  until  they  clear  it,  preferring,  as  a 


FROM  SAN  FRANCISCO  TO  CALLAO.  121 

rule,  to  take  the  chances  of  better  winds  and  the  certainty 
— which  is  some  compensation — of  shorter  degrees  of  longi- 
tude beyond/7 

After  these  statements  Maury  gives  a  series  of  u  tables  of 
passage,"  containing  for  each  month  a  certain  number  of 
west  and  east  routes. 

In  examining  these  tables  the  first  point  that  strikes  the 
eye  of  the  reader  is,  that  the  general  mean  for  the  whole 
year  is  shorter  by  9  per  cent,  for  the  west  route  than  that 
obtained  for  the  other  route. 

The  following  results  were  deduced  from  a  comparative 
examination  of  the  two  routes  for  each  month  : 

In  January,  the  mean  from  San  Francisco  to  the  line  by 
the  western  route  is  21  days ;  and  from  San  Francisco  to 
Callao,  55.8  days.  By  the  eastern  route,  41  days  were  con- 
sumed in  reaching  the  line,  and  81.5  days  in  the  whole  pas- 
sage. 

The  advantage  in  favor  of  the  western  route  is  therefore 
26  days. 

In.  February  and  March,  the  total  length  of  the  voyage  by 
the  W.  route  is  57  days.  Examples  of  the  E.  routes  are 
rare  j  if  it  were  possible  to  obtain  them  they  would  undoubt- 
edly be  longer. 

In  April,  25  days  to  the  line  by  the  W.  route,  and  54.7 
days  for  the  whole  passage  j  22  dajs  to  the  line  by  the  E. 
route,  and  89  days  for  the  whole  passage.  By  keeping  to 
the  westward  34  days  were  therefore  saved. 

In  Hay,  26  days  to  the  equator  by  the  W.  route,  and  61 
days  from  San  Francisco  to  Callao ;  by  the  E.  route,  31  days 
to  the  equator,  and  66  days  to  Callao.  Advantage  in  favor 
of  the  W.  route  5  days. 

In  June,  22  days  to  the  line  by  the  W.  route,  and  50.5 
days  for  the  whole  passage ;  by  the  E.  route,  31  days  to  the 
line,  and  62.3  to  Callao.  Gain  of  12  days  by  W.  route. 

The  next  four  months  show  opposite  results. 

In  July,  26  days  in  reaching  the  line,  and  57  days  for 
the  whole  passage ;  by  the  E.  route,  29  days  to  the  line, 
and  only  48  to  Callao.  Gain  of  9  days  by  the  E.  route. 

In  August,  26  days  to  the  line  by  the  W.  route,  and  57.6 
days  for  the  whole  voyage ;  by  the  E.  route,  33  days  to  the 
line,  and  57  days  in  all.  A  very  small  advantage  on  the 
side  of  the  E.  route. 


122  FROM  SAN  FRANCISCO   TO   CALLAO. 

In  September,  25  days  to  the  line,  by  the  \V.  route,  and 
58.8  days  to  Callao ;  by  the  E.  route,  23  days  to  the  line, 
and  48.5  to  Callao.  Ten  days'  gain  by  the  E.  route. 

In  October,  27  days  to  the  line,  by  the  W.  route,  and  71 
days  for  the  whole  passage  ;  by  the  E.  route,  28.2  days  to 
the  line,  and  only  57  days  to  Callao.  Gain  of  14  days  in 
favor  of  the  E.  route. 

In  November,  27  days  to  the  line,  by  the  W.  route,  and 
55.5  days  for  the  whole  voyage ;  by  the  E.  route,  30  days 
to  the  line,  and  55.5  days,  or  in  other  words  the  same  length 
of  voyage  to  Callao. 

In  December,  23  days  to  the  line,  by  the  W.  route,  and 
58.8  to  Callao.  Iso  example  of  the  E.  route  given. 

From  which  we  conclude  that  nothing  will  be  gained  by 
taking  the  E.  route,  except  during  the  months  of  July, 
August,  September,  and  October ;  while  by  the  W.  or  trade- 
wind  route  the  passages  will  be  much  shortened,  especially 
between  January  and  June. 

We  would  therefore  advise  sailing-ships,  leaving  San 
Francisco,  to  regulate  their  course  in  accordance  with  the 
instructions  given  in  §  68  and  the  principles  lai'd  down  by 
Maury :  that  is,  to  endeavor  to  cross  the  equator  near  118° 
W.,  between  May  and  October,  and  near  113°  W.  between 
October  and  May. 

Auxiliary  steamers,  frigates,  and  corvettes,  for  instance, 
should  follow  the  route  given  in  the  preceding  paragraph, 
(§  68,)  that  is,  keep  nearer  to  the  Mexican  coast,  and  make 
the  coast  of  S.  America  near  cape  San  Francisco. 

Vessels  taking  the  trade-wind  route  should  keep  on  the 
port  tack  until  Callao  bears  to  the  northward  of  KE. 

They  may  often  be  compelled  to  go  to  the  southward  of 
3Qo  s.  before  they  meet  the  W.  winds.  With  these  they 
should  steer  to  the  eastward  until  they  are  in  good  position 
to  make  their  northings. 

In  January,  30°  S.  will  generally  be  made,  on  the  port 
tack,  between  118°  and  122°  W.,  then  run  to  the  east  on 
the  parallel  33°  until  near  98°  W. 

In  February,  March,  and  April,  cross  30°  near  118°  W., 
and  then  steer  to  the  eastward  on  35°  or  36°  S. 

In  May,  cross  30°  in  the  neighborhood  of  123°  W.,  and 
make  to  the  eastward  between  32°  and  33°  S. 


FROM  SAN  FRANCISCO  TO  VALPARAISO.  123 

In  June,  30°  S.  can  be  crossed  between  123°  and  128° 
W. ;  the  west  winds  prevail  at  35°  S. 

In  July,  cross  30°  S.  between  118°  and  123°  W. ;  and  as 
the  west  winds  are  to  be  found  a  little  farther  north,  run 
down  the  easting  between  33°  and  34°  S. 

In  August,  the  SE.  trades  will  be  very  variable,  and  30° 
S.  should  be  crossed  between  118°  and  128°  W.,  more  or 
less  to  the  east  or  west,  as  circumstances  allow.  The  east- 
ing should  be  made  on  the  parallel  of  32°. 

In  September,  30°  S.  cannot  be  crossed  to  the  eastward  of 
128°  W.;  the  easting  should  be  made  on  33°,  or  near  that 
parallel. 

In  October,  30°  S.  can  be  crossed  a  little  farther  to  the 
eastward  than  during  the  preceding  month,  and  the  easting 
made  on  32°  S. 

In  November,  after  having  crossed  the  line  near  113°  W., 
and  30°  S.  between  118°  and  122°  W.,  steer  to  the  eastward 
near  33°  S. 

In  December,  cross  30°  S.  near  118°  W.,  then  follow  32° 
S.  to  the  eastward. 

Auxiliary  steam -vessels,  taking  the  E.  route,  will  be  en- 
abled to  cross  10°  N.  between  89°  and  91°  W.  They  will 
then  experience  variable  winds  till  they  reach  cape  San 
Francisco.  These  winds  blow  quite  often  from  S.  and  SE., 
with  5  per  cent,  of  chances  of  calms. 

Steam  will  have  to  be  used  about  half  the  time  in  this 
locality.  The  passage  from  cape  San  Francisco  to  Callao  will 
be  tedious,  as  both  wind  and  current  are  from  the  south- 
ward. If  this  part  of  the  voyage  be  made  under  canvas  it 
will  last  at  least  25  days.  For  further  observations  on  this 
subject  consult  §  75. 

§  70.  EOUTE  FROM  SAN  FRANCISCO  TO  THE  INTERME- 
DIATE PORTS. — This  voyage  should  be  made  in  exactly  the 
same  manner  as  that  described  in  §  69 ;  that  is,  keep  always 
to  the  west,  or  SE.  trade-wind  route.  Stick  to  the  port- 
tack  until  you  strike  the  west  winds  to  the  southward  of 
30°  S.  Afterward  the  course  should  be  to  the  east  until 
the  port  of  destination  bears  to  the  N.  of  KE.  Thus,  if 
the  port  of  destination  be  Iquique  or  Arica,  92°  W.  should 
be  reached  before  bearing  away  to  the  northward. 

§  71.  KOUTE  FROM  SAN  FRANCISCO  TO  VALPARAISO. — 
According  to  Maury,  the  route  to  Callao  is  longer  than  that 
to  Valparaiso;  owing  to  the  fact  that  sailing-ships  have  to 


124  FROM   SAN  FRANCISCO  TO   CAPE  HORN. 

make  the  parallel  of  Valparaiso  before  striking  to  the  north- 
ward for  Callao,  consequently  the  mean  of  the  voyages  from 
California  to  Peru  being  about  56  days,  vessels  can  count 
on  a  mean  passage  of  about  50  or  55  days  from  California 
to  Valparaiso. 

If  the  reader  will  refer  to  §  68  and  §  69  he  will  there  find 
all  the  necessary  instructions  relating  to  this  passage. 

Thus,  as  has  been  stated,  the  equator  should  be  crossed 
very  near  118°  W.  from  May  to  October,  and  at  about  113° 
W.  from  October  to  May. 

Make  a  long  port  tack  rap  full  through  the  SE.  trade-belt 

In  January,  vessels  can  make  good  headway  to  the  east- 
ward after  reaching  34°  or  35°  S.  In  February,  bear  away 
to  the  east,  between  35°  and  36°  S.  In  March,  at  the  same 
latitude,  or  a  little  farther  south.  In  April  and  May,  bear 
to  the  eastward  near  34°  or  35°  S.  In  June,  steer  east, 
when  south  of  35°  S.  In  July,  August,  and  September, 
near  the  parallel  of  34°  S.  In  October,  November,  and  De- 
cember, at  36°  S.  In  no  case  begin  to  steer  directly  for 
Valparaiso  before  reaching  83°  W. 

§  72.  EOUTE  FROM  SAN  FRANCISCO  TO  CAPE  HORN. — 
Nothing  especial  is  to  be  added  to  what  has  been  stated  in 
the  preceding  paragraphs,  particularly  in  §  69. 

After  standing  well  full  on  the  port  tack,  through  the  SE. 
trades,  steer  south  until  the  region  of  W.,  NW.,  and  SW. 
winds  is  reached,  or  in  other  words  until  between  35°  and 
40°  S.  Then  bear  away  around  cape  Horn  on  a  great  circle 
route,  as  nearly  as  the  wind  will  permit. 

Information  relating  to  icebergs  will  be  found  in  §  43. 
The  reader  should  also  consult  §  107,  §  108,  and  §  109. 

§  73.  EOUTE  FROM  MEXICO  TO  PANAMA. — Reference 
should  first  be  had  to  §  63,  where  will  be  found  Captain 
Wood's  instructions.  According  to  this  officer,  vessels 
leaving  Mexico  will  have  no  difficulty  in  going  either  north 
•  or  south  after  they  have  once  penetrated  the  NE.  trade 
region.  He  also  shows  how  the  eastern  limit  of  the  trades 
changes  at  different  seasons. 

Observations  of  Captain  Basil  Hall :  "  The  return  pas- 
sages from  Mexico  to  Panama  are  always  easy.  In  the 
period  called  here  summer,  from  December  to  May,  a  dis- 
tance of  90  to  150  miles  from  the  coast  insures  a  fair  wind 
all  the  way.  In  winter  it  is  advisable  to  keep  still  farther 


FROM  MEXICO   TO   GUAYAQUIL.  125 

off,  say  300  miles,  to  avoid  the  calms,  and  the  incessant 
rains,  squalls,  and  lightnings,  which  everywhere  prevail  on 
the  coast  at  this  season.  Don  Manuel  Luzurragui  advises, 
during  winter,  that  all  ports  on  this  coast  should  be  made 
to  the  southward  and  eastward,  as  the  currents  in  this  time 
of  the  year  set  from  that  quarter." 

Captain  Hall's  instructions  seem  to  be  completely  indorsed 
by  a  study  of  the  prevailing  winds  in  these  quarters. 

From  December  to  May  vessels  can  easily  keep  along  the  MJye.C6mber  to 
coast  as  far  as  10°  N.,  or  even  all  the  way  to  Panama,  the 
wind  generally  varying  between  NE.  and  NW.,  but  there 
is  a  chance  of  meeting  south-easterly  and  southerly  winds 
in  the  offing,  south  of  the  10th  parallel. 

After  May,  calms  will  render  the  passage  particularly 
difficult,  and  it  will  be  advisable  to  keep  farther  from  the 
coast.  Vessels  coming  from  Mazatlan  or  San  Bias  should 
cross  12°  or  130  tf.  near  100°  W. ;  then  10°  N.  at  92°  or 
93o  W. 

From  May  to  October  the  direction  of  the  wind  is  gener-  Ocprom  Ma?  to 
ally  favorable  as  far  as  103°  W. ;  prevailing  SE.  winds  will 
then  be  found,  becoming  steadier  and  stronger  to  the  south- 
ward and  eastward  of  that  meridian.  The  last  part  of  the 
passage  will  ordinarily  be  long  and  irksome.  Vessels  leav- 
ing Acapulco  during  this  season  should  at  first  make  as 
much  to  the  southward  as  possible,  and  not  attempt  to 
work  to  the  eastward  until  they  are  in  the  neighborhood  of 
12o  S. 

We  will  finish  with  a  quotation  from  Fitz-Koy : 

"  Vessels  bound  to  Panama  from  northward  should  make 
the  island  of  Hicaron,  which  lies  about  50  miles  westward 
of  Mariato  point,  and  from  this  endeavor  to  keep  under  the 
land  as  far  as  cape  Mala.  If  unable  to  do  this,  they  should 
push  across  for  the  opposite  side  of  the  continent,  when  the 
current  will  be  found  in  their  favor.  On  getting  eastward 
of  cape  Mala  the  safest  plan  is  to  shape  a  course  for  Galera 
island,  and  to  use  the  eastern  passage.  At  the  same  time, 
if  tempted  up  the  gulf  by  a  fair  wind,  vessels  should  endea- 
vor to  get  on  the  western  coast  of  the  Pearl  islands,  which 
have  the  advantages  already  explained." 

§  -74.  BOTJTE  FROM  MEXICO  TO  GUAYAQUIL. — The  prin- 
cipal points  of  this  route,  which  is  usually  long  and  tedious, 
will  be  found  in  §  69,  under  the  head  of  the  E.  route  from 


126  FROM  MEXICO   TO   CALLAO. 

California  to  Callao.  The  reader  should  particularly  refer 
to  the  assertions  of  Captain  Shreve,  quoted  by  Maury. 
Useful  information  will  also  be  found  in  §§  73  and  75,  which 
contain  extracts  from  Basil  Hall  and  Eosencoat. 

We  shall  therefore  confine  ourselves  to  the  following 
advice  (from  Findlay)  relative  to  the  best  manner  of  ap 
preaching  Guayaquil : 

u  Coming  from  the  northward  Santa  Clara  island  may  be 
made,  which  is  visible  about  16  miles,  and  at  first  appears 
like  three  hummocks;  and  Zampo  Palo,  the  high  range  on 
Puna  island,  will  generally  be  seen  at  the  same  time. 

"  Santa  Clara  should  not  be  approached  nearer  than  2 
miles,  or  within  the  depth  of  12  fathoms,  the  best  track 
being  about  5  miles  to  the  southward  of  it,  in  from  20  to  15 
fathoms  water,  whence  a  KE.  J  E.  (by  compass)  course  for 
25  miles  will  lead  toward  Arenas  point,  (vide  §  53.) 

§  75.  BOUTE  FROM  MEXICO  TO  CALLAO. — Auxiliary 
steam-vessels  should  always  approach  the  land  near  cape 
San  Francisco.  Their  steam-power  will  help  them  both  in 
the  first  part  of  the  voyage  and  while  beating  up  to  Callao 
beyond  capes  San  Francisco  and  Santa  Elena. 

Sailing-vessels  and  auxiliary  steamers  desiring  to  econo- 
mize coal,  will  find  it  generally  advantageous  (at  least  from 
May  to  December)  to  take  the  west  route. 

The  first  part  of  this  route  is  nearly  identical  to  that  given 
in  §  68  and  §  73,  while  the  latter  part  will  be  the  same  as 
that  described  in  §  69.  The  west  route  seems  to  be  undeni- 
ably the  best  for  vessels  leaving  San  Bias,  Mazatlan,  or 
Acapulco.  If  the  point  of  departure  is  farther  S.,  Istapa  or 
Kealejo  for  instance,  there  may  be  some  doubt  as  to  which 
is  the  best  route;  but  even  then  it  would  seem  that  the 
westerly  passage  is  the  one  to  be  preferred.  The  SE.  trade* 
will  be  found  to  the  southward  of  10°  S.;  when  haul  up  a 
little  free  on  the  port  tack,  and  pass  [a  trifle,  west  of  the  Gal- 
apagos islands. 

Below  are  the  instructions  given  by  Captain  Basil  Hall ; 
it  will  be  seen  that  they  do  not  absolutely  conform  to  our 
own  advice  on  this  passage,  for  we  still  hold  to  the  opinion 
that  the  W.  route  is  the  preferable  one  for  sailing-vessels  : 
"  If  it  is  required  to  return  direct  from  San  Bias  to  Callao, 
a  course  must  be  shaped  so  as  to  pass  between  the  island  of 
Cocos  and  the  Galapagos,  and  to  the  south-eastward,  till 
the  land  be  made  a  little  to  the  southward  of  the  equator, 


FROM  SAN  JOSE  DE  GUATEMALA  TO  CALLAO.  127 

between  cape  San  Lorenzo  and  cape  Santa  Elena.  Then 
work  along  shore  as  far  as  point  Aguja,  in  lat.  6°  S.,  after 
which  work  due  S.,  on  the  meridian  of  that  point,  as  far  as 
11°  30'  S.  and  then  stretch  inshore.  If  the  outer  passage 
were  to  be  attempted  from  San  Bias  it  would  be  necessary 
to  run  to  25°  or  30°  S.,  across  the  trade,  which  would  be  a 
needless  waste  of  distance  and  time." 

Observations  on  the  route  from  San  Jose  de  Guatemala  to 
CallaOj  by  Captain  Eosencoat. — "  Following  the  information 
I  had  on  this  route,  I  decided  to  make  for  Cocos  island, 
where  I  presumed  I  would  find  westerly  winds,  to  carry  the 
ship  a  little  to  northward  of  the  gulf  of  Guayaquil  and 
thence  to  the  Peruvian  ports  by  the  usual  route.  We  fol- 
lowed this  route,  but  instead  of  the  westerly  winds  near 
Cocos  island  found  a  light  though  steady  breeze  from  E . 
and  ESE.  The  wind  held  from  this  quarter  till  we  reached 
Chatham  island,  (the  most  eastern  of  the  Galapagos,)  and 
instead  of  dying  away,  as  is  usual  in  this  locality,  freshened  • 
and  still  kept  steady  from  the  eastward.  I  was  therefore 
compelled  to  run  through  the  SE.  trades  and  then  make 
my  easting  with  the  variables  near  the  tropic  of  Capricorn, 
in  order  to  reach  the  prevalent  winds  of  the  coast  of  Peru. 

"Vessels  deciding  to  cross  the  SE.  trades  should,  however, 
run  boldly  through  the  region  of  SE.  winds,  no  matter  how 
much  they  may  at  first  be  set  to  the  westward.  Those,  on 
the  contrary,  deciding  to  make  the  passage  along  the  coast, 
should,  from  January  to  April,  keep  within  15  miles  of  land, 
and  take  advantage  of  the  Mexican  current,  which  sets 
ESE.  with  a  speed  of  one  knot  and  a  half  per  hour.  The 
WNW.  and  SSW.  winds  which  we  found  during  these  four 
mouths,  on  the  coast  of  Central  America,  would  have  given 
us  a  quick  passage  to  cape  San  Francisco,  or  even  to  a  more 
southerly  point  on  the  coast,  as  the  prevalent  wind  is  SE. 
in  the  gulf  of  Panama  at  this  season ;  except  near  Gorgona 
island,  where  frequent  calms  are  said  to  exist. 

"  Vessels  taking  the  inshore  route  can  hardly  expect  to 
make  the  passage  from  San  Jos6  de  Guatemala  to  cape 
Blanco  in  less  than  15  days;  and  the  whole  voyage  to 
Callao  in  less  than  35  days.  We  took  40  days,  but  our 
unsuccessful  attempts  to  make  to  the  eastward  at  the  be- 
ginning, probably  lengthened  the  whole  voyage.  If  we 
had  steered  boldly  for  the  SE.  trades  at  first,  we  probably 
would  not  have  been  delayed  by  cairns  north  of  the  equator. 


128  FROM  MEXICO  TO  CAPE  HORN. 

§  76.  ROUTE  FROM  MEXICO  TO  THE  INTERMEDIATE 
PORTS,  VALPARAISO  AND  CAPE  HORN. — It  was  stated  in 
the  preceding  paragraph  that  the  W.  route  seems  to  be  the 
best  for  sailing-ships  making  passage  from  Mexico  to  Cal- 
lao.  We  have  also  stated  that  the  E.  route  has  its  parti- 
sans, and  that  vessels  leaving  the  southern  ports,  such  as 
Istapa  or  Realejo,  may  have  quite  a  short  passage. 

But  when  vessels,  bound  to  a  port  south  of  Callao,  leave 
the  Mexican  coast,  it  seems  impossible  thai  they  should 
prefer  any  other  to  the  W.  route.  Therefore  ships  leaving 
San  Bias,  Mazatlan,  or  Acapulco  should  profit  by  every 
breeze  that  will  set  them  to  the  southward,  always  choosing, 
if  the  wind  comes  out  ahead,  that  tack  by  which  they  can 
make  S  W.  or  SSW.  in  preference  to  the  one  which  will  take 
them  to  the  southward  and  eastward.  Vessels  leaving 
Realejo  should  steer  SSW.  as  nearly  as  possible.  By  fol- 
lowing this  advice  they  will  find  the  SE.  trades  near  10°  N. 
No  other  recommendation  is  needed,  except  to  keep  u  rap 
full"  on  the  port  tack,  and  never  hug  the  wind.  If  bound 
to  one  of  the  intermediate  ports,  do  not  go  about  in  the 
trades  until  your  port  bears  N.  of  NE.  But  if  the  destina- 
tion be  Valparaiso,  keep  on  the  port  tack  to  the  region 
of  prevalent  westerly  winds,  near  32°  or  34°  S.,  (vide  §  71.) 
Ships  bound  around  the  Horn  should  steer  S.  until  they 
have  settled  and  steady  west  winds,  when  they  can  gradu- 
ally bear  away  to  the  eastward,  (vide  §  72,  §  107,  §  108,  and 
§  109.) 

§  77.  ROUTE  FROM  PANAMA  TO  GUAYAQUIL,  PAYTA, 
AND  CALLAO. — After  leaving  Panama  the  end  in  view 
should  be  to  make  as  much  as  possible  to  the  southward, 
and  thus  reach  the  SE.  trade-region. 

This  advice,  given  by  Fitz-Roy,  is  certainly  the  best,  but 
sailing-ships  cannot  always  follow  the  most  favorable  route, 
especially  in  a  locality  of  calms,  squalls,  and  light  breezes. 

Referring  to  James  Wood,  we  find  the  following  :  "  But 
the  great  difficulty  at  all  times  consists  in  getting  either  to 
the  southward  or  westward  of  Panama.  The  passage  to  the 
southward  is  made  in  two  ways— either  by  beating  up  the 
coast  against  a  constantly  foul  wind  and  contrary  current, 
or  by  standing  off  to  sea  till  sufficient  southing  is  made  to 
allow  you  to  fetch  your  port  on  the  starboard  tack.  Both 
plans  are  very  tedious,  as  it  frequently  takes  twenty  days 


FROM  GUAYAQUIL  TO  CALLAO.  129 

to  beat  up  to  Guayaquil,  whilst  six  or  seven  days  are  an 
average  passage  down."  (Vide  Maury's  instructions,  §  62.) 

In  short,  it  will  be  to  the  advantage  of  ships  leaving 
Panama  for  Guayaquil  to  keep  close  to  the  land.  If  they 
are  bound  farther  down  the  coast,  they  should,  after  doub- 
ling cape  Blanco,  follow  the  instructions  given  in  §  79. 

§  78.  ROUTE  FROM  PANAMA  TO  THE  "  INTERMEDIATE 
PORTS,"  VALPARAISO,  AND  CAPE  IIORN. — As  stated  in  the 
foregoing  paragraph,  make  to  the  southward  as  much  as 
possible,  taking  advantage  of  every  favoring  breeze,  and 
thus  reach  the  SE.  trades  by  the  most  direct  route.  Below 
5°  N.,  and  especially  to  the  westward  of  80°,  settled  south- 
erly winds  will  be  found,  ranging  between  the  SE.  and  SW. 
points  of  the  compass. 

The  passage  may  be  made  along  the  coast  to  cape  San 
Francisco,  or  even  to  cape  Blanco,  though  if  the  wind  shows 
a  tendency  to  come  from  the  southward  and  eastward,  it  is 
well  to  stand  off-shore  on  the  port  tack  before  reaching  San 
Francisco.  If  bound  to  any  of  the  intermediate  ports,  the 
inshore  route  is  preferable,  as  a  long  stretch  on  the  port 
tack  is  liable  to  set  vessels  too  far  to  the  southward  and 
westward  of  their  destination.  We  again  repeat  the  rule, 
that  vessels  should  never  go  about  in  the  SE.  trades  until 
the  port  of  destination  bears  north  of  NE.,  (vide  §§  71,  72, 
76,  and  84.) 

§  79.  ROUTE  FROM  GUAYAQUIL  AND  PAYTA  TO  CAL- 
LAO.— Fitz-Roy  gives  the  following  instructions  on  this 
route : 

"  On  leaving  Guayaquil  or  Payta,  if  bound  to  Callao, 
work  close  inshore  to  about  the  islands  of  Lobos  de  Afuera. 
All  agree  in  this.  Endeavor  always  to  be  in  with  the  land 
soon  after  the  sun  has  set,  so  that  advantage  may  be  taken 
of  the  land-wind,  which,  however  light,  usually  begins  about 
that  time ;  this  will  frequently  enable  a  ship  to  make  her 
way  along  shore  throughout  the  night,  and  will  place  her  in 
a  good  situation  for  the  first  of  the  sea-breeze. 

"After  passing  the  above-mentioned  islands,  it  would  be 
advisable  to  work  upon  their  meridian  until  the  latitude  of 
Callao  is  approached ;  then  stand  in,  and  if  it  be  not 
fetched,  work  up  along  shore,  as  above  directed,  remember- 
ing that  the  wind  hauls  to  the  eastward  on  leaving  the 
coast.  Some  people  attempt  to  make  this  passage  by  stand- 
9  N 


130  FROM  GUAYAQUIL  TO  CALLAO. 

ing  off  for  several  days,  hoping  to  fetch  in  well  on  the  other 
tack ;  but  this  will  generally  be  found  a  fruitless  effort,  ow- 
ing to  a  northerly  current  which  is  often  found  on  approach- 
ing the  equator.  The  mean  passage  for  weatherly  vessels 
is  15  or  20  days  from  Guayaquil  to  Callao." 

Oapt.  Basil  Hall  gives  the  following  instructions : 

"The  passage  from  Guayaquil  to  Callao  requires  atten- 
tion, as  may  be  seen  from  the  following  directions,  which  I 
obtained  from  Don  Manuel  Luzurragui,  captain  of  the  port 
of  Guayaquil : 

"  'The  average  passage  in  a  well-found  and  well-managed 
ship  is  twenty  days  ;  eighteen  is  not  uncommon  ;  and  there 
is  an  instance  of  a  schooner  doing  it  in  twelve.  From  the 
entrance  of  the  river  as  far  as  Punta  de  Aguja,  (in  lat.  6° 
S.,)  the  shore  must  be  hugged  as  close  as  possible,  in  order 
to  take  advantage  of  the  changes  of  wind,  which  take 
place  only  near  the  shore.  In  this  way,  by  due  vigilance, 
slants  may  be  made  every  day  and  night.  On  reaching 
Punta  de  Aguja,  work  to  the  southward,  as  nearly  on  the 
meridian  of  that  point  as  may  be,  as  far  as  11°  30'  S.,  and 
then  strike  inshore  for  Callao,  and  if  it  is  not  fetched,  creep 
along  shore,  as  formerly  directed. 

"  i  Persons  accustomed  to  the  navigation  between  Callao 
and  Valparaiso  are  tempted  to  stand  boldly  out  in  hopes  of 
making  their  southing  with  ease,  and  then  run  in  upon  a 
parallel.  But  this  is  not  found  to  be  practicable,  and  indeed 
the  cases  have  no  resemblance,  since  the  passage  to  Val- 
paraiso is  made  by  passing  quite  through  the  trade-winds 
and  getting  into  the  variables ;  whereas  Callao  lies  in  the 
heart  of  the  trades  j  accordingly,  a  ship  that  stretches  off 
from  Guayaquil  comes  gradually  up  as  she  stands  out,  and 
finally  makes  about  a  south  course  ;  when  she  tacks  again, 
the  wind  shifts  as  she  draws  in,  and  she  will  be  fortunate  if 
she  can  retrace  her  first  course,  and  very  often  does  not 
fetch  the  point  left  in  the  first  instance. 

"  *  To  work  along  shore  with  effect,  the  land  must  be  kept 
*well  on  board,  and  constant  vigilance  be  bestowed  upon  the 
navigation,  otherwise  a  ship  will  make  little  progress.'" 

Capt.  Andrew  Livingston,  well  known  in  the  nautical 
world,  makes  the  following  remarks  on  navigating  to  wind- 
ward from  Huanchaco  to  Callao : 

"The  most  intelligent,  experienced  persons  with  whom  I 


FROM  GUAYAQUIL  TO  THE  INTERMEDIATE  PORTS.  131 

conversed  generally  recommended  standing  off  sbore  dur- 
ing the  night,  and  inshore  during  the  day;  but  advised 
that  any  person  in  charge  of  a  vessel  beating  thus  to  wind- 
ward should  take  care  to  be  pretty  close  to  the  shore  by 
sunset,  to  take  advantage  of  the  wind,  which  about  that 
time  generally  draws  rather  off  the  land,  though  not  suffi- 
ciently to  deserve  the  name  of  a  land-breeze." 

On  the  above  1  remark,  that  on  account  of  the  land 
trending  so  much  to  the  eastward,  if  you  stand  twelve 
hours  off  shore  and  twelve  hours  inshore,  at  the  same  rate 
of  sailing,  and  have  gained  any  southing  of  consequence, 
you  will  still  be  a  considerable  distance  off  shore  when  y6ur 
twelve  hours  are  completed  standing  in;  and  I  think  that 
it  will  be  found  in  general  most  advisable  to  stand  off  only* 
about  ten  hours  and  in  for  fourteen  hours;  as,  even  if  you 
get  inshore  rather  too  soon,  you  can,  by  making  a  short 
tack  or  two,  be  sure  of  being  near  the  shore  at  sunset,  when 
you  may  expect  the  wind  rather  to  favor  you  for  gaining 
southing  with  your  port  tack  on  board. 

On  the  off-shore  tack  you  will  generally  find  that  the 
vessel  comes  up  more  and  more  as  you  stand  off,  but  do  not 
let  this  persuade  you  to  stand  off  too  far,  even  should  the 
vessel  head  up  S.,  or  S.  by  E.  by  compass,  as  you  will  lose 
more  on  the  inshore  tack,  when  you  must  be  headed  off  in 
proportion  as  you  have  headed  up  on  the  off-shore  tack. 
The  inspection  of  the  chart  will  at  once  convince  any  per- 
son of  this  fact,  even  if  there  is  no  northerly  current.  Of 
course,  bringing  that  directly  on  or  abaft  a  vessel's  beam 
must  sag  her  to  leeward. 

On  the  coast  of  Peru  the  water  is  frequently  of  a  dirty- 
brown  color,  and  sometimes  quite  red,  as  if  mingled  with 
blood. 

§  80.  KOUTE  FROM  GUAYAQUIL  AND  PAYTA  TO  THE 
INTERMEDIATE  PORTS. — Vessels  should  strike  through  the 
trades  on  the  port  tack,  as  if  bound  to  Valparaiso,  and  go 
about  when  their  port  bears  to  northward  of  NE.  They 
will  consequently  leave  the  trades,  and  make  their  ea  ting 
near  30°  or  32°  S.  (Vide  §§  70,  76,  78,  and  81.) 

§  81.  EOUTE  FROM  GUAYAQUIL  AND  PAYTA  TO  VALPA- 
RAISO AND  CAPE  HORN.— Fitz-Roy's  instructions  on  this 
route  may  be  condensed  as  follows  : 

"  Sailing-vessels    bound    from   Guayaquil  to  Valparaiso 


132  FROM  CALLAO  TO  THE  CHINCHA  ISLANDS. 

shoujd  stretch  out  to  sea,  crossing  the  Peruvian  current  be* 
fore  passing  the  meridian  of  92°  W.  From  this  the3r  should 
push  to  southward,  not  caring  about  being  driven  to  the 
westward  if  southing  can  be  made,  as  they  will  have  no  dif- 
ficulty in  making  their  easting  on  the  parallel  of  Valparaiso. 
This  passage  is  generally  made  in  37  days." 

We  have  nothing  to  add  to  these  general  observations ; 
besides,  detailed  instructions  will  be  found  in  §§  71,  72,  and 
84  on  the  proper  manner  of  steering  through  the  trades  and 
prevalent  W.  winds  in  order  to  reach  Valparaiso  or  cape 
.Horn. 

§  82.  ROUTE  FROM  CALLAO  TO  THE  GHINOHA  ISLANDS. 
— We  will  cite  the  instructions  on  this  passage  given  by 
*  Captain  Chardonueau,  in  his  work  on  the  coast  of  Peru, 
(pages  22  and  94  :) 

"Going  from  Callao  to  the  Chincha  islands  or  Pisco,  it  is 
best  to  keep  at  a  distance  of  from  25  to  40  miles  from  the 
coast,  until  SW.  of  Cerro-Azul.  Then  stand  in  to  within 
10  miles  of  the  land,  as,  from  this  point  to  Pisco,  there  is 
nearly  always  a  light  northerly  breeze  during  the  morning. 

"  It  frequently  happens  that  after  finding  a  calm  in  the 
morning  abreast  of  Cerro-Azul  the  ship  will  at  night  be 
anchored  off  Pisco.  The  current  sets  steadily  to  WNW.  in 
this  locality. 

"It  is  advisable  to  keep  away  from  the  shore  during  the 
night,  and  near  it  during  the  day,  until  beyond  the  13th 
degree  of  latitude,  then  work  along  at  a  distance  of  4  or  5 
miles  from  the  land. 

"Captain  Harvey's  advice  for  the  autumn  months  is  to  run 
2G  hours  to  seaward  and  22  to  landward,  thus  being  at  the 
end  of  48  hours  to  windward  of  San  Gallan." 

Fitz-Roy  also  states  that  it  is  best  to  beat  up  near  land, 
between  Callao  and  the  Chincha  islands.  The  same  rule 
should  be  followed  as  he  has  given  in  §  79,  for  the  passage 
from  Guayaquil  or  Payta  to  the  Lobos  de  Afuera  islands. 

Lastly,  Maury  cites,  in  the  Sailing  Directions,  an  extract 
from  the  log  of  the  Hornet,  Captain  Knap,  which  we  quote 
below : 

"  The  passage  frpm  Callao  to  the  Chincha  islands  offers 
no  especial  peculiarities.  I  would  simply  state  that  it  had 
better  be  made  in  the  region  of  steady  trades,  that  is,  clear 
of  the  land,  and  out  of  the  influence  of  calms  and  baffling 


FROM  OALLAO  TO  THE  INTERMEDIATE  POETS.         133 

airs,  as  these  make  vessels  lose  at  least  twelve  hours  out  of 
the  twenty-four.  I  think  you  cannot  count  on  land-breezes 
near  the  shore,  at  any  rate  not  in  the  autumn. 

<;  I  reached  the  Chinchas  by  two  tacks,  one  of  twenty-six 
hours  off  shore,  the  other  of  twenty-two  hours,  which 
brought  me  to  San  Gallan,  fifteen  miles  to  windward  of  the 
group.  Forty-eight  hours  in  all  from  Callao.  I  observed 
the  same  rule  while  descending  the  coast  from  cape  Blanco 
to  Callao,  that  is,  I  kept  an  offing  of  three  or  four  degrees, 
thus  getting  away  from  the  influence  of  the  coast  calms,  an 
influence  which  I  had  unfortunately  experienced  while  sail- 
ing from  point  Santa  Elena  to  cape  Blanco." 

The  above  quotations  do  not  absolutely  agree.  It  is, 
however,  certain  that  long  and  rapid  passages  have  been  at 
times  made  by  ships  keeping  near  the  land,  and  again  by 
others  which  have  given  the  shore  a  wide  berth ;  and  the 
successful  captains  have  never  failed  to  praise  the  respect- 
ive routes  which  they  have  followed.  We  believe,  however, 
that  as  a  general  rule  it  is  best  to  keep  a  good  distance  from 
the  land  at  the  beginning  of  the  passage.  But  we  would  also 
add  that  it  is  not  advisable  to  run  too  long  off  shore  on  the  port 
tack,  as  the  wind  may  haul  toward  ESE.  toward  the  end  of 
the  off-shore  tack,  and  the  ship  may  be  set  back  to  the 
northward  while  approaching  the  coast  on  the  starboard 
tack. 

Fitz-Boy's instructions — to  approach  land  during  the  after- 
noon and  thus  be  in  readiness  to  take  the  off-shore  tack  at 
sunset — would  seem  to  be  the  best.  Stand  on  this  tack 
until  the  morning  at  9  o'clock,  when  go  about. 

By  proceeding  in  this  manner  navigators  need  not  fear 
(if  the  wind  haul  ahead)  that  they  will  be  as  .far  from  the 
Chinchas  at  the  end  of  twenty-six  hours  as  they  were  at 
starting. 

§  83.  Eou'j'E  FROM  CALLAO  TO  THE  "  INTERMEDIATE 
PORTS." — After  stating  that  vessels  bound  to  Valparaiso 
should  run  off  shore,  Fitz-Koy  remarks : 

"  But  for  the  intermediate  ports  the  case  is  different,  (ex- 
cepting Coquiinbo,)  as  they  lie  considerably  within  the 
trade- wind,  and  must  be  attained  through  that  medium 
alone.  A  very  dull  sailer  might  indeed  do  better  by  run- 
ning through  the  trade,  and  making  southing  in  the  offing, 
so  as  to  return  to  the  northward  along  the  coast,  than  by 


134  FROM  OALLAO  TO  THE  INTERMEDIATE  PORTS. 

attempting  to  work  to  windward  against  a  trade-wind, 
which  never  varies  more  than  a  few  points. 

"It  may  be  recommended  to  work  along  shore,  in  a  good 
sailer,  as  far  as  the  island  of  San  Gallan,  whence  the  coast 
trends  more  to  the  eastward,  so  that  a  long  leg  and  a  short 
one  may  be  made  (with  the  land  just  in  sight)  to  Arica,  or 
to  any  of  the  ports  between  it  and  Pisco. 

"  From  Arica,  the  coast  being  nearly  north  and  south, 
vessels  bound  to  the  southward  should  make  an  offing  of 
not  more  than  45  or  60  miles,  (so  as  to  insure  keeping  the 
sea-breeze,)  and  work  upon  that  meridian,  till  in  the  paral- 
lel of  the  place  to  which  they  are  bound,  but  on  no  account 
is  it  advisable  to  inake  a  long  stretch  off;  for  as  the  limit 
of  the  trade- wind  is  approached,  it  gradually  hauls  to  the 
eastward,  and  great  difficulty  will  be  found  in  even  fetching 
the  port  from  which  they  started." 

Captain  Basil  Hall  makes  the  following  remarks  on  this 
passage : 

"  There  is  no  difficulty  in  making  a  passage  along  the 
south  coast  of  Peru  from  the  eastward  ;  but  from  the  west- 
ward a  great  deal  of  vigilance  is  requisite  to  take  advan-. 
tage  of  every  occasional  shift  of  the  wind,  since  by  this 
means  alone  can  a  passage  be  made.  The  best  authorities 
are,  I  think,  against  standing  out  to  sea,  to  the  southwest- 
ward,  in  the  hopes  of  fetching  in  upon  the  starboard  tack. 
The  Constellation,  American  frigate,  tried  this  passage,  but 
she  lost  a  great  deal  of  time  thereby,  being  at  least  three 
weeks  in  going  from  Callao  to  Mollendo.  The  San-Martin, 
bearing  Lord  Cochrane's  flag,  made  the  passage  from  Callao 
to  Arica,  which  is  considerably  farther,  iu  thirteen  days,  by 
keeping  inshore  and  taking  advantage  of  the  changes 
which  take  place,  with  more  or  less  regularity,  every  even- 
ing and  morning. 

"As  the  weather  along  the  south  coast  of  Peru  is  in- 
variably fine,  ships  are  not  otherwise  incommoded  at  the 
various  anchorages,  than  by  a  high  swell,  which  always 
rolls  in  at  the  full  and  change  of  the  moon.  Arica  is  the 
only  place  having  any  pretensions  to  the  name  of  a 
harbor." 

Commander  Chardonneau  gives  the  following  advice: 

"  Vessels  bound  from  Callao  to  Iquique,  Arica,  and  Islay 
should  work  along  the  coast  to  Morro  de  Chala.  The 


CALLAO  TO  VALPARAISO.  135 

boards  should  be  short  and  close  tinder  the  land,  so  as  to 
take  advantage  of  the  fresh  wind  in  the  offing  during  the 
day,  and  the  land-breeze  during  the  night.  Between  San 
Lorenzo  and  San  Gallan  islands  it  is  advisable  to  keep 
clear  of  Asia  or  Cerro-Azul  bight,  as  vessels  are  liable  to 
bo  becalmed  in  that  locality  and  the  eddy  currents  are 
strong  and  uncertain.  The  best  plan  is  to  keep  to  seaward 
of  a  line  drawn  from  San  Lorenzo  to  the  northernmost  of 
the  Chincha  islands. 

"  To  southward  of  Morro  de  Chala  vessels  should  keep 
from  30  to  100  miles  from  the  coast,  as  beyond  the  latter 
distance  the  wind  hauls  to  the  eastward,  and  renders  it 
difficult  to  fetch  the  port  when  bound  in  on  the  land  tack. 

"The  parallel  of  their  port  once  reached,  vessels  should 
run  in  for  the  land,  being  careful  not  to  lose  anything  that 
they  have  made  in  latitude.  If  the  landfall  be  made  a  few 
miles  to  windward  the  anchorage  can  always  be  reached, 
even  during  a  calm,  as  the  current  and  'catspaws'  are 
sufficient  for  working  up  to  the  port.'7 

§  84.  KOUTE  FROM  CALLAO  TO  VALPARAISO. — Fitz-Roy's 
instructions :  "  For  a  sailing-vessel  bound  from  Callao  to 
Valparaiso,  there  is  no  question  but  that  by  running  off 
with  a  full  sail  the  passage  will  be  made  in  much  less  time 
than  by  working  inshore,  for  she  may  run  quite  through 
the  trade,  and  fall  in  with  the  westerly  winds  which  are 
always  found  beyond  it.  The  average  passage  is  about 
three  weeks.  Fast-sailing  schooners  have  made  it  in  much 
ess  time;  and  there  is  an  instance. of  two  men-of-war  sail- 
ing in  company,  having  gone  from  Callao  to  Valparaiso, 
remained  there  two  days,  and  re-anchored  at  Callao  on  the 
twenty-first  day.  But  these  are  rare  occurrences,  and  only 
to  be  done  under  most  favorable  circumstances,  such  as 
meeting  with  a  norther  soon  after  leaving  Callao." 

Captain  Basil  Hall's  passages  ;  Callao  to  Valparaiso,  2Sth 
February  to  ISth  March,  1821. — The  return-passage  from  Peru 
to  Chile  requires  some  attention,  and  may  generally  be  made 
by  a  man-of-war  in  less  than  three  weeks;  it  has  been  made 
in  less  than  a  fortnight  by  a  frigate,  which,  however,  on 
the  next  occasion,  took  twenty-eight  days.  The  point  which 
contributes  most  to  the  success  of  this  passage  is  keeping 
well  off  the  wind  after  leaving  Callao,  and  not  having  any 
scruples  about  making  westing,  provided  southing  can 


136  FiiOil  CALLAO  TO  VALPARAISO. 

also  be  gained.  The  SE.  trade-wind,  through  which  the 
greater  part  of  this  course  is  to  be  made,  invariably  draws 
to  the  eastward  at  its  southern  limit,  and  therefore  event- 
ually a  ship  can  always  make  her  southing.  The  object, 
however,  being  to  get  past  the  trade  and  into  the  westerly 
winds,  which  lie  to  the  southward,  a  ship  ought  to  keep 
the  wind  at  least  abeam,  while  crossing  the  trade.  In  win- 
ter, that  is  when  the  sun  is  to  the  northward  of  the  equator, 
the  trade- wind  blows  steadier,  and  its  southern  extreme  lies 
40  or  50  to  the  northward  of  its  summer  limit,  which  may 
be  taken  at  about  30°  or  31°  S. 

"Chorillos  (near  Callao)  to  Valparaiso,  Wth  to  28th  August, 
1821.— This  being  what  is  called  the  winter  passage,  we  lost 
the  trade-wind  in  lat.  25°  S.,  after  which  we  had  the  winds 
to  the  SW.  as  far  as  lat.  27°  S.,  long.  88°  W.,  when  they 
shifted  to  the  NW.  and  W.,  and  so  to  the  SW.  and  S,,  as 
far  as  lat.  33°  S.,  long.  78°  W.  We  were  much  embarrassed 
by  calms,  light  winds,  and  heavy  rains,  after  which  the 
wind  came  to  the  northward  and  NNW.,  with  thick,  rainy 
weather.  We  made  the  land  to  the  southward  of  Valparaiso 
on  the  27th,  and  got  in  next  day  by  the  wind  coming  round 
to  the  SW.  . 

"At  this  season  of  the  year,  when  northerly  winds  pre- 
vail, with  heavy  rain,  and  unpleasant  weather,  it  does  not 
seem  advisable  to  make  the  coast  to  the  southward  of  the 
port.  Neither  ought  a  ship,  I  think,  to  run  into  Val- 
paraiso in  one  of  these  gales,  since  the  wind  frequently 
blows  home,  and  is  attended  by  a  high  swell.  During  the 
winter  the  barometer,  the  threatening  aspect  of  the 
weather,  and  the  rising  swell  generally  give  sufficient 
warning.  Previous  to  a  nortlier,  also,  the  land  of  Concon, 
and  that  beyond  it  to  the  northward,  are  seen  with  unusual 
sharpness  and  distinctness. 

"This  passage  in  eighteen  days  may  be  termed  short. 
Formerly  thirty  days  was  usual ;  it  afterward  sunk  to 
twenty-five  days,  and,  at  the  period  of  our  arrival,  three 
weeks  was  considered  good.  Sir  Thomas  Hardy,  in  His 
Majesty's  ship  Creole,  made  the  passage  from.  Huacho  in 
something  less  than  fourteen  days,  the  distance  being  more 
than  2,200  miles.  This  was  early  in  May,  1821 ;  and  it  is 
well  worth  attending  to,  that  the  trade-wind  was  crossed, 
with  a  foretop-mast  studding-sail  set,  no  regard  being  paid 


FKOM  CALLAO  TO  VALPARAISO.  137 

to  any  object  but  getting  through  the  trade-wind  as  fast  as 
possible.  The  same  ship,  however,  in  February  and  March 
of  the  following  year  was  twenty -eight  days  making  the 
passage ;  but  this  is  unusually  long  for  a  man-of-war." 

Commander  Ckardonneaifs  observations. — "A  ship  leaving 
one  of  the  ports  of  Peru  for  Chile  should  make  a  good 
offing,  work  to  the  southward  and  westward,  and  keep  J  or 
1  point  free.  The  wind  will  become  fairer  and  fairer  as  the 
ship  leaves  the  coast  and  makes  to  the  southward.  Many 
captains  brace  their  yards  so  that  the  foretop-mast  stud- 
ding-sail will  just  i  touch, >  and  then  steer  by  it.  This 
seems  to  be  a  good  plan.  Stand  on  in  this  manner  for  the 
variable  winds,  always  to  be  found  south  of  the  tropic,  and 
between  it  and  the  parallels  of  28°  or  30°  S.  These  winds 
are  often  fresh  and  blow  from  SW.,  S.,  and  NW.,  with 
squalls  and  rain.  Then  steer  to  the  southward  and  east- 
ward— without  seeing  land — as  far  as  the  parallel  of  the 
port  of  destination,  or  a  little  to  the  south  of  that  parallel, 
if  it  is  summer,  (from  September  to  April.)  Make  the  laud 
to  southward  of  your  port. 

"Vessels  going  to  Valparaiso  should  head  for  the  island  of 
Juan  JFernandez  as  soon  as  they  strike  the  variable  winds, 
and  passing  to  the  northward  of  the  island  and  in  sight  of 
it,  stand  to  the  eastward  until  they  sight  point  Curaumilla, 
if  it  is  the  summer  season.  But  in  winter  (from  May  to 
August)  steer  for  Valparaiso,  taking  care  not  to  enter  the 
port  if  the  wind  be  from  the  N.  and  the  barometer  be  fall- 
ing, for  the  anchorage  is  then  dangerous,  and  it  is  prefer- 
able to  lie-to  outside  until  the  wind  comes  out  from  the 
west,  when  there  will  be  no  risk.7' 

We  will  complete  these  instructions  by  giving,  for  each 
month,  the  principal  crossings  on  the  route  from  Callao  to 
Valparaiso.  By  first  tracing  on  the  chart  the  indicated 
route,  the  navigator  will  be  enabled  to  make  the  passage 
under  approximative  mean  conditions.  Still  it  should  be 
understood  that  the  route  may  be  altered  if  the  wind  is 
contrary.  As  a  general  rule,  the  ships  which  keep  a  little 
free  are  the  ones  which  make  the  quickest  passages ;  con- 
sequently it  may  become  necessary  to  make  a  longer  circuit 
than  that  given,  and  yet  have  a  quick  voyage. 

In  January,  cross  15°  S.  near  79°;  20°  S.  near  81° ;  25° 


138  FROM  CALLAO  TO  CAPE  HORN. 

S.  near  82°;  31°  S.  near  82° ;  32°  30'  S.  near  80°  W.;  then 
head  for  Valparaiso. 

In  February  the  port  tack  carries  vessels  to  25°  S.  and 
83°  W. ;  beyond  this  parallel  the  chances  will  vary,  and 
they  may  find  winds  from  S.  and  SW. ;  80°  W.  should  gen- 
erally be  crossed  between  32°  and  33°  S. 

In  March,  20°  S.  can  generally  be  crossed  near  81°  W. ; 
30°  S.  near  84°  :  here  the  winds  are  from  SE.  to  S  W.,  and 
haul  to  the  westward  as  the  ship  goes  south.  The  parallel 
of  32°  30'  should  be  crossed  near  80°  W. 

In  April,  cross  20°  S.  at  about  81°  W. ;  vessels  can  often 
reach  25°  S.  between  81°  and  82°  W. ;  30°  S.,  near  81°  W. ; 
31°  or  32°  S.,  near  80° ;  and  thence  steer  for  their  port, 

In  May,  cross  20°  S.  at  81°  W.  ;  25°  and  30°  S.  at  82°, 
and  then  make  for  Valparaiso. 

In  June,  cross  20°  S.  at  81°  W. ;  *25°  S.  at  82°;  30°  S. 
between  80°  and  81° ;  and  then  shape  the  course  so  as  to 
make  the  parallel  of  Valparaiso  near  75°  W. 

In  July,  vessels  will  often  be  able  to  cross  20°  and  .25°  S. 
at  81°  VV. ;  as  the  northerly  winds  are  more  frequent  than 
during  the  preceding  month  they  may  fetch  27°  30'  S.  at 
79°  W.;  30°  S.  at  77°  W. ;  sailing  directly  for  their  port 
from  this  point. 

In  August,  cross  15°  S.  in  the  neighborhood  of  80°  W. ; 
20°  and  30°  S.  near  82°  W.  ;  32°  S.  at  80° ;  and  32°  30'  S. 
at  75°  W. 

In  September,  cross  20°  S.  a  little  to  the  eastward  of  81° 
W.;  25°  and  30°  S.  between  81°  and  82°  W. ;  and  32°  S.  at 
79°  W. 

In  October,  cross  25°  S.  between  82°  and  83°  W. ;  beyond 
30°  or  31°  S.  a  fair  or  leading  wind  will  generally  be  found. 

In  November,  cross  20°  S.  near  82°  W. ;  25°  S.,  between 
82°  and  83° ;  and  attempt  to  reach  30°  S.  near  80°  W. 

In  December,  15°  S.  should  be  crossed  at  80°  W. ;  20°  S. 
at  82°;  25°  S.  at  81°;  from  this  parallel  to  30°  S.  the  wind 
varies  from  S  W.  to  E3E. ;  beyond  30°  S.  the  direction  of 
the  wind  is  favorable  for  running  down  the  easting. 

§  85.  ROUTE  FROM  CALLAO  TO  CAPE  HORN. — We  have 
seen  in  the  preceding  paragraph  that  ships,  leaving  Callao 
for  Valparaiso,  should  keep  a  good  full  while  passing  through 
the  SE.  trades.  This  recommendation  is  just  as  important  for 
ships  bound  around  cape  Horn.  In  this  passage  the  region 


FROM  VALPARAISO  TO  CAPE  HORN.  139 

of  westerly  winds  should  be  readied  as  soon  as  possible ;  no 
matter  if  the  ship  be  carried  very  much  to  the  westward  in 
search  of  them.  In  short,  the  farther  the  ship  crosses  the 
parallel  of  35°  to  the  westward,  the  more  favorable  will  be 
her  position  for  doubling  the  cape  with  the  NW.  and  SW. 
winds. 

As  we  have  stated  in  §  72,  the  great-circle  route  is  the 
best  for  doubling  the  cape. 

A  very  good  point  to  cross  30°  and  35°  S.,  is  between  88° 
and  93°  W. 

§  86.  EOUTE  FROM  THE  "INTERMEDIATE  PORTS"  TO 

VALPARAISO  AND  CAPE  HORN. — The  following  quotation 
is  from  Fitz-Roy's  instructions  for  the  navigation  of  the 
coast  of  Chile,  and  may  be  of  use  to  vessels  bound  from  the 
intermediate  ports  to  the  southward  : 

"If  bound  to  the  southward  steer  direct  for  the  place,  if 
fortunate  to  have  a  wind  which  admits  of  it;  but  if  not, 
stand  out  to  sea  by  the  wind,  keeping  every  sail  clean  full, 
the  object  being  to  get  through  the  adverse  southerly  winds 
as  soon  as  possible,  and  to  reach  a  latitude  from  which  the 
ship  will  be  sure  of  reaching  her  port  on  a  direct  course. 
Every  experienced  seaman  knows  that,  in  the  regions  of 
periodic  winds,  no  method  is  more  inconsistent  with  quick 
passages  than  that  of  hugging  the  wind.  When  Rear  Ad- 
miral Sir  Thomas  Hardy  was  on  the  coast,  he  used  to  cross 
the  southerly  winds  with  a  topmast  studding-sail  set,  his 
object  being  to  get  through  them." 

This  advice  is  especially  given  to  vessels  bound  to  Valpa- 
raiso. We  have  nothing  to  add  to  what  we  have  said  on 
analogous  routes  in  §§  71,  76,  78,  81,  and  84. 

After  leaving  the  intermediate  ports  it  will  be  still  more 
to  the  advantage  of  ships  bound  to  cape  Horn  to  keep  a 
"  clean  full "  while  making  passage  through  the  zone  of 
southerly  winds  j  in  fact,  they  should  steer  a  trifle  freer 
than  if  bound  to  Valparaiso.  It  is  probably  best  to  cross 
35°  S.  near  83°  W.,  or  even  farther  to  the  westward ;  and 
it  can  be  generally  stated  that  the  farther  35°  S.  is  crossed 
to  the  westward,  the  sooner  the  cape  will  be  doubled.  The 
length  of  the  route  will  certainly  be  compensated  for  by  the 
increase  of  speed,  caused  by  keeping  away,  both  in  the 
trades  and  in  the  belt  of  westerly  winds. 

§  87.  ROUTE  FROM  VALPARAISO  TO  CAPE  HORN. — After 


140  FROM  V  ALPAEAISO  TO  CAPE  IIOEN. 

leaving  Valparaiso  southerly  winds  will  be  encountered, 
except  during  the  rainy  season,  when  they  are  interrupted 
by  northers,  (vide  §  21.) 

It  will  therefore  be  easy  for  ships  to  make  to  the  west- 
ward as  far  as  Juan  Fernandez. 

As  a  general  rule  35°  S.  should  not  be  crossed  at  less  than 
80°  or  82°  W.  It  will  be  advantageous — as  stated  in  the 
foregoing  paragraph — to  cross  this  parallel  as  far  to  the 
westward  as  possible;  that  every  advantage  may  be  taken 
of  the  prevalent  W.  winds,  which  haul  to  northward  and  to 
southward  as  far  as  40°  or  42°  S. 

In  January,  cross  35°  S.  at  82°  W. ;  40°  S.,  when  possi- 
ble, between  80°  and  85°  W. ;  50°  S.  at  81°  or  82°  W. 

In  February,  the  same  route. 

In  March,  cross  35°  S.  at  80°  or  80°  30'  W.  Aim  to  cross 
40°  between  80°  and  83°  W. ;  after  which  bear  to  the  south- 
ward. 

In  April,  May,  and  June,  vessels  are  sufficiently  far  to  the 
westward  if  they  cross  35°  S.  between  78°  and  80°  W.  ;  and 
40o  S.  between  80°  and  83°  W. 

In  July  and  August,  cross  35°  S.  between  81°  and  82°  W. ; 
40°  S.  between  82°  and  83°  W. 

In  September,  October,  November,  and  December,  cross  35° 
S.  as  far  as  possible  to  the  westward.  Thus,  if  it  can  be 
done,  the  parallels  of  35°  and  37°  should  be  crossed  between 
82°  and  85°  W.  The  S.  winds  at  this  season  prevail  as  far 
as  40°  or  42°  S.  The  west  route  is  therefore  much  the  best. 

The  crossings  just  indicated  for  the  different  seasons  show 
approximately  the  route  which  the  winds  allow.  Sailing- 
vessels  should  keep  still  farther  to  the  westward  if  the 
wind  permit.  Auxiliary-steam  vessels  need  not,  of  course, 
make  such  a  long  circuit.  They  can  head,  for  example,  for 
35°  S.  near  78°  W. ;  and  40°  S.  near  80°  W.,  using  steam  if 
necessary. 

We  take  from  the  Ann.  Hydr.  the  following  extract,  relat. 
ing  to  a  voyage  from  Valparaiso  to  cape  Horn,  made  by  the 
sailing-frigate  Alceste,  Captain  Brosset  : 

u  In  order  to  double  cape  Horn  the  proper  route  to  be 
made,  after  leaving  Valparaiso,  is  to  keep  150  or  200  miles 
from  the  coast  of  Chile ;  thence  to  descend  parallel  to  this 
coast  until  50°  S.  is  reached ;  after  this,  to  make  an  oblique 
route  around  the  cape. 


FROM  VALPARAISO  TO  COXCEPCION.  141 

u  I  left  Valparaiso  on  the  14th  December,  and  was  favored 
with  moderate  winds  from  SSW.,  varying  to  S.,  SSE.,  and 
even  SE.  I  made  my  offing  by  passing  to  the  northward  of 
Juan  Fernandez  islands. 

"  On  the  18th  December  I  was  about  570  miles  from  the 
coast  of  America,  lat.  33°  30'  S.,  long.  85°  W.,  and  in  good 
position  to  make  to  the  southward  ;  but  I  crept  along  at  a 
slow  rate,  and  was  off  my  course  when  close-hauled,  being 
several  times  obliged  to  take  the  port  or  west  tack  in  order 
to  keep  at  a  convenient  distance  from  land.  From  the 
18th  to  the  28th  December  the  wind  blew  constantly  from 
S.  to  W. ;  oftenest  from  SSW.  and  S  W.,  varying  in  intensity 
from  a  light  breeze  to  a  moderate  gale. 

"At  50°  S.  and  80°  W.  I  commenced  to  bear  away  toward 
E.,  and,  assisted  by  the  SSW.  wind — which  now  became 
favorable — I  crossed,  on  the  31st  December,  the  50th  de- 
gree south  latitude  at  76°  W.  I  supposed  that,  in  all  prob- 
ability, I  should  quickly  double  cape  Horn  with  the  strong 
west  winds  which  seem  to  reign  perpetually  in  these  locali- 
ties, when  the  SW.  wind  hauled  to  S.  and  SSE.,  and  dying 
away  altogether  was  succeeded  by  a  calm.  Nor  did  I  make 
Staten  island  until  the  llth  January.  During  the  12  days 
taken  to  double  cape  Horn  (from  56°  S.  and  70°  W.  to  Sta- 
ten island)  I  constantly  experienced  winds  from  ESE.,  E., 
light  breezes  from  NE.,  and  calms  and  light  airs  from  S. 
to  SSE.,  with  which  I  slowly  made  headway  to  the  eastward. 

"  On  both  the  5th  and  Gth  January  I  had  a  gale  from  the 
east. 

"  Although  this  gale  only  took  place  on  the  5th  and  Gth 
January,  the  rotation  of  the  wind  commenced  from  W.  on 
the  2d,  and  with  the  hands  of  a  watch ;  that  is,  in  a  direc- 
tion opposite  to  the  usual  one.  According  to  ttie  Dutch 
instructions  this  is  nearly  always  a  certain  sign  of  a  tem- 
pest." 

§  88.  ROUTE  FROM  VALPARAISO  TO  CONCEPCION. — Be- 
low will  be  found  the  instructions  of  Gapt.  Basil  Hall  on 
this  passage,  from  whom  we  have  had  occasion  to  quote 
several  times  before : 

"Passage  made  in  20  days,  October,  1821. — As  the  preva- 
lent winds  along  this  coast  are  from  the  southward,  it  is 
necessary  to  take  advantage  of  every  slant  that  will  allow 
of  southing  boiog  made;  and  we  were  fortunate  in  meeting 


FROM  VALPARAISO  TO  CONCEPCION. 

with  a  westerly  wind  on  the  third  day  after  sailing,  which 
carried  us  more  than  half  the  distance.  The  wind  subse- 
quently was  S.  by  W.,  which  made  the  rest  of  the  passage 
to  Concepcion  almost  a  dead  heat.  We  arrived  at  Talca- 
huana,  in  Concepcion  bay,  on  the  8th.  During  the  9th  it 
blew  fresh  from  the  northward.  We  afterward  beat  up  to  the 
bay  of  Arauco,  and  to  the  island  of  Mocha,  in  38°  19'  S.,  hav- 
ing on  this  occasion  been  favored  with  a  south-easterly  breeze, 
and  then  a  southerly  one  to  stand  in  with. 

"  We  endeavored  to  reach  Valdivia  also,  but  the  wind 
came  from  S.  by  E.,  and  blew  so  hard  that  we  were  obliged, 
for  want  of  time,  to  give  it  up.  On  the  return  passage  to 
Valparaiso,  we  had  light  !NW.  and  W.  winds,  then  SW., 
and  so  on  the  southward  and  S.  by  E.,  which  is  the  most 
common  wind. 

"These  particulars  would  seem  to  point  out  that  a  pas- 
sage may  always  be  made  to  the  southward,  for  the  winds 
are  seldom  steady  for  twelve  hours,  and  by  taking  care  to 
profit  by  every  change,  southing  must  be  made. 

"The  passage  from  Valparaiso  to  Concepcion  is  generally 
made  in  ten  days,  which  is  also  the  usual  time  required  for 
a  passage  to  Callao.  The  distance,  however,  in  the  first 
case  is  200  miles,  and  in  the  latter,  1,320  miles— a  circum- 
stance which  points  out  very  decidedly  the  direction  of  the 
prevalent  winds." 

We  will  also  give  an  abstract  of  the  instructions  of  Cap- 
tain Fleuriot  de  Langle,  (vol.  22  Ann.  Hydr:) 

According  to  this  superior  officer,  the  winds  which  pre- 
vail during  the  greater  part  of  the  year  from  SSE.  to  SS  W., 
along  the  coast  of  Chile,  render  the  passages  from  Valpa- 
raiso to  the  southern  ports  long  and  tedious.  These  winds 
are  interrupted  in  winter  by  northers  of  short  duration. 
Ships  will  consequently  be  obliged  to  beat  up  on  the  port 
tack ;  and  will  find  enough  wind  and  sea  to  compel  them 
to  take  at  least  two  reefs  in  the  topsails.  It  would,  at  cer- 
tain times,  seem  preferable  to  stand  well  out  to  sea,  and 
not  to  go  about  until  the  latitude  of  the  port  is  reached  ;  at 
others  it  is  best  to  beat  up  the  coast.  If  bound  to  Maule  or 
Talcahuana  it  is  not  advisable  to  stand  on  the  port  tack 
farther  than  to  mid-distance  between  Valparaiso  and  Juan 
Fernandez. 

If  this  advice  be  followed  there  is  a  chance  of  striking  a 


FROM  VALPARAISO  TO  CONCEPCION.  143 

northerly  breeze,  even  during  the  fine  season.  The  weather 
is  also  better  and  the  sea  smoother  than  it  is  farther  to  the 
westward. 

Between  Juan  Fernandez  and  the  coast  of  Chile,  it  often 
happens  that  the  wind  prevails  from  SW.  near  the  coast 
and  from  SE.  farther  out  ;  or  vice  versa.  Thus  it  is  some- 
times very  difficult,  after  having  made  a  great  deal  of  lati- 
tude, to  run  down  the  longitude.  By  tacking  under  the 
laud  the  passage  will  generally  be  shortened  ;  the  time  from 
Valparaiso  to  Concepcion  being  only  from  4  to  8  days  by 
the  coast  route :  while  it  is  from  10  to  15  days  by  the  ofi- 
shore  route. 

While  beating  up  the  coast  the  temperature  of  the  water 
will  show  whether  or  not  the  ship  is  close  to  land,  as  the  sea 
is  colder  near  shore.  According  to  M.  Fleuriot  de  Langle, 
vessels  bound  to  Yaldivia  or  the  Chilo6  islands,  and 
those  bound  around  the  cape,  should  keep  on  the  port  tack 
until  they  sight  Juan  Fernandez ;  they  will  usually  make 
this  island  in  three  days.  As  the  land  is  high,  be  careful 
not  to  approach  too  close  to  leeward,  as  ships  are  apt  to 
lose  the  wind. 


CHAPTER    III. 

Routes  from  the  western  coast  of  America,  across  the  Pacific. 

§  89.  EOUTE  FROM  VALPARAISO  OR  CALLAO  TO  AUS- 
TRALIA, (by  the  trades.) — Vessels  boimd  to  Australia  from 
the  coast  of  Chile  or  Peru,  should  first  strike  for  the  SE. 
trade  region.  Those  leaving  Valparaiso  will  therefore  steer 
immediately  NNW.  or  STW.;  while  those  starting  from 
Callao  should  head  W.  The  settled  SE.  trades  being  once 
found,  the  passage  to  the  Marquesas  islands  is  quickly  made. 

Fatu-Hiva,  or  Madeleine  island,  is  a  good  land-fall,  and  is 
8  miles  long  N.  and  S.,  and  4  miles  broad.  The  land  is 
high,  with  a  peak  rising  for  nearly  4,000  feet. 

Between  the  coast  of  America  and  the  Marquesas  the 
wind  will  become  steadier  and  haul  more  and  more  to  the 
eastward  as  the  ship  goes  to  the  westward. 

Beyond  the  Marquesas  constant  trades  can  be  relied  upon, 
particularly  from  July  to  October ;  but  they  will  not  be  so 
fresh  or  steady  during  the  rest  of  the  year,  (vide  §  4.)  Dur- 
ing the  spring  months,  and  after  the  sun  has  passed  the 
summer  solstice  of  the  X.  hemisphere,  the  voyage  can  be 
made  to  the  northward  of  the  Samoa  group ;  passing  close 
and  to  the  southward  of  Uvea  island,  to  the  westward  ot 
the  Fijis,  the  tropic  can  be  crossed  a  little  west  of  the 
meridian  of  the  isle  of  Pines.  During  the  rest  of  the  year, 
from  November  to  June,  steer  direcc  from  Fatu-Hiva  to 
Tonga-Tabu,  and  thence  so  as  to  cross  the  tropic  near  the 
same  meridian,  166°  E. 

For  further  instructions  on  this  route  vide  §§  132  and  133. 

Auxiliary  steamers,  starting  from  Valparaiso,  can  short- 
en this  passage  by  passing  the  Paumota  islands  to  the 
southward  or  by  sailing  through  the  group  on  the  20th 
parallel,  (vide  §  93.)  After  reaching  about  141°  W.,  they 
can  leave  20°  S.,  and  steer  so  as  to  intersect  the  parallel  of 
Tahiti  near  158°  W.  They  can  then  pass  between  the 
Samoas  and  Tongas.  The  last  part  of  the  passage  is  simi- 
lar to  that  already  given.  Bufc  we  think  that  it  will  be  ad- 
vantageous for  sailing-ships  to  keep  to  the  route  we  have 


FROM  VALPARAISO   TO   INDIAN   OCEAN.  145 

indicated,  especially  from  March  to  October  ;  that  is,  to  sight 
Fatu-Hiva  and  pass  to  the  northward  and  clear  of  the 
Paumotas.  It  often  happens  that  calms  or  westerly  breezes 
are  found  south  of  the  Paumotas;  though  that,  of  course, 
will  be  no  inconvenience  if  steam-power  is  available. 

§  90.  ROUTE  FROM  VALPARAISO  OR  CALLAO  TO  THE 
INDIAN  OCEAN,  SAIGON,  BATAVIA,  MELBOURNE,  ETC.— 
This  passage  can  be  made  in  two  ways  :  by  the  trades,  and 
by  the  cape  Horn  route. 

These  two  routes  are  so  different  that  it  is  difficult  to  de- 
cide which  is  the  better.  To  make  a  choice  between  the 
two,  one  should  take  into  account  the  qualities  of  the  ship  ;' 
the  importance  attached  to  making  a  passage  more  or  less 
rapid,  no  matter  what  it  may  cost  ;  the  season  of  the  year, 
etc. 

The  trade-  wind  route  will  be  less  boisterous,  but  even  this 
is  often  dangerous;  in  certain  cases  it  will  be  sensibly 
longer.  The  cape  Horn  route  is  severe  and  generally 
quicker,  passing  through  higher  latitudes. 

Vessels  bound  to  Melbourne  should  navigate  in  the  SE.  *rade" 


roto 

trades  according  to  the  instructions  given  in  §  89.  Once 
south  of  New  Caledonia,  they  should  approach  the  coast  of 
Australia,  in  the  manner  described  in  §  138;  the  'passage 
should  be  finished  as  stated  in  §  178.  Sailing-ships  are 
almost  certain  to  have  head  winds  and  squalls  between 
New  Caledonia  and  Melbourne,  (vide  §§  6  and  7.)  It  will 
be  especially  difficult  to  pass  through  Bass  strait,  as  Jan- 
uary, February,  and  March  are  the  only  months  when  o#- 
casional  easterly  winds  may  be  expected. 

During  these  months,  and  from  November  to  March  in 
general,  vessels  bound  to  the  Indian  ocean  and  Batavia 
should,  after  sailing  over  the  route  just  described,  pass  to 
the  southward  of  Australia.  This  part  of  the  route  will  be 
found  in  detail  in  §  172. 

It  is  possible  to  pass  north  of  Australia  at  all  seasons  ; 
the  weather  being  better  by  this  route.  From  March  to 
September  there  will  therefore  be  a  choice  between  Torres 
strait,  which  can  be  traversed  with  the  SE.  monsoons,  and  the 
route  by  St.  George's  channel  and  the  N.  of  New  Guinea. 

In  either  case  pass  north  of  the  Samao  islands,  close  to 
the  southward  of  Ho  turn  ah  island  and  north  of  the  New 
Hebrides.    For  further  information  vide  §  171.    During  the 
10  N 


146  FROM  VALPARAISO   TO  INDIAN   OCEAN. 

other  season,  from  September  to  March,  the  NE.  trade  route 
can  be  taken,  (vide  §  92.)  Make  the  Bashee  islands  between 
Formosa  and  Luzon,  and  run  down  the  China  sea  with  the 
NE.  monsoon.  Instructions  relating  to  the  latter  part  of 
the  voyage  will  be  found  in  §  168  and  subsequent  para- 
graphs. 

The  following  quotations,  referring  to  trade-wind  pas- 
sages made  during  the  seasons  of  both  monsoons,  are  from 
Horsburgh,  (vol.  3,  p.  764:) 

"  Several  ships  have  made  very  rapid  passages  from  the 
coast  of  South  America  to  India.  Captain  Peircy  left  Val- 
paraiso in  January,  1814 ;  after  crossing  the  Pacific,  he 
entered  the  China  sea,  passing  through  the  Bashee  group ; 
crossing  the  strait  of  Malacca,  he  arrived  at  Bengal  86  days 
after  leaving  Valparaiso. 

"  The  Sherburne  left  Copiapo  for  Calcutta  on  the  27th 
February,  1824 ;  sailed  between  the  Marquesas  and  Society 
groups,  and  sighted  the  most  easterly  of  the  Navigator 
islands.  Instead  of  the  prevalent  SE.  winds,  she  often  ex- 
perienced light  and  variable  airs  5  she  took  the  route 
through  St.  George's  channel  ;  thence  sailed  along  the  north 
coast  of  New  Guinea,  through  Gillolo  and  Ombay  chan- 
nels, and  entered  the  Indian  ocsan  on  the  15th  June,  after 
doubling  the  S.  point  of  Sandal  wood." 

ad.  The  capo  When  the  destination  is  Reunion,  Bombay,  Calcutta,  Ba- 
tavia,  or  even  Saigon,  quicker  passages  will  undoubtedly  be 
made  by  this  route.  It  will  be  particularly  advantageous 
for  ships  leaving  Valparaiso  and  Callao,  between  the  months 
of  August  and  January.  During  this  season  the  weather 
will  not  be  so  severe  in  that  part  of  the  passage  made  in 
high  latitudes ;  the  temperature  will  be  warmer,  and,  the 
days  being  longer,  the  floating  ice  can  be  more  easily 
avoided,  (vide  §  43.)  Moreover,  during  this  season  the 
trade-wind  passage  will  be  more  uncertain  as  bad  weather 
and  westerly  winds  are  common  in  the  western  part  of  the 
intertropical  zone,  (vide  §  4.) 

During  the  rest  of  the  year,  and  particularly  when  start- 
ing between  March  and  June,  the  SE.  trade  passage  can  be 
made  with  steady  winds ;  the  weather  will  be  fair,  and  the 
difference  in  time  between  the  two  routes  will  be  little  or 
nothing.  It  is  well  understood,  however,  that  the  only 


FROtf  VALPARAISO   TO   INDIAN  OCEAN.  147 

route  at  all  seasons,  for  good  and  well-equipped  vessels 
bound  to  Reunion  or  Bombay,  is  that  by  the  cape. 

One  of  the  inconveniences  of  the  southern  route,  espe- 
cially during  the  winter,  when  the  nights  are  very  long,  is 
the  danger  of  meeting  icebergs.  The  chances  of  running 
foul  of  them  can,  however,  be  diminished  after  leaving  cape 
Horn,  by  steering  so  as  to  cross  40°  S.  near  41°  or  42°  W.j 
when  run  down  the  easting ;  but  this  circuit  will  greatly  in-  . 
crease  the  length  of  the  voyage,  and  a  more  rapid  passage 
will  probably  be  made,  by  gradually  shaping  the  course 
(after  leaving  cape  Horn)  for  40°  S.  to  the  eastward  of  28° 
or  29°  E.  if  bound  to  Eeuriion ;  for  40°  S.  at  37°  or  42°  E.  if 
bound  to  India,  or  near  62°  E.  if  the  destination  is  Batavia. 

Maury  gives  the  following  instructions  for  this  route  : 

"  I  have  advised  a  ship-master  who  consulted  me  by  let- 
ter to  go  by  way  of  cape  Horn.  The  distance,  by  the  way 
of  the  cape,  to  Calcutta  is  10,500  miles;  while  the  distance 
by  the  usual  route  west,  or  i  running  down  the  trades,'  as  it 
is  called,  is  13,000  miles.  The  difference  in  time  will  be 
quite  as  great  as  this  difference  of  distance  would  indicate. 
Indeed,  in  addition  to  distance,  time  is  also  in  favor  of  the 
cape  Horn  route,  for  the  winds  are  stronger  and  quite  as 
fair. 

"As  one  stands  between  the  capes  of  the  South  Atlantic 
and  looks  north  upon  the  chart,  he  sees  a  part  of  the  ocean 
in  the  shape  of  the  letter  A,  without  the  cross,  which  is  un- 
traveled,  except  by  whalemen  and  sealers.  The  track  to 
and  around  the  cape  of  Good  Hope  forms  one  side  of  the 
letter;  the  track  to  and  fro  around  cape  Horn,  the  other. 
Between  these  two  the  ocean  is  a  solitude.  Among  the 
many  thousand  logs  on  file  in  the  observatory  there  is  not 
one  to  show  that  any  trader  has  ever  performed  the  voyage 
from  the  offings  of  cape  Horn  to  the  offings  of  the  cape  of 
Good  Hope. 

"  The  way  by  the  cape  Horn  route  to  India  is  to  proceed 
from  Valparaiso  as  though  you  were  homeward  bound 
around  the  cape,  and  then,  with  l  the  brave  west  winds' 
which  prevail  there,  to  run  east  with  flowing  sheets,  passing 
between  the  isles  of  South  Georgia  and  Sandwich-land, 
keeping  a  bright  lookout  for  icebergs.  The  route  thence 
crosses  the  prime  meridian  in  about  54°  S.,  20°  E.  in  50°  S., 
35°  E.  in  40°  S.,  by  which  time  the  navigator  will  again 


148  FROM  VALPARAISO  TO  NEW  ZEALAND. 

find  Limself  in  the  traveled  thoroughfares,  and  will  know 
how  to  proceed. 

"Distance  in  miles  from  Valparaiso  via — 

Cape  Horn    Western 
route.  route. 

To  Canton 11,  500      10,  800 

ToShanghai 12,  200      10, 500 

To  Java-head 9,  700       

"  In  tbe  southern  summer  the  voyage  from  Valparaiso  to 
Canton  may,  on  account  of  the  winds,  be  performed  quite 
as  quickly  via  cape  Horn  as  it  may  be  by  the  route  west. 
If  the  'brave  west  winds7  will  enable  a  ship  by  cape  Horn 
to  average  only  ten  miles  a  day  more  during  the  voyage 
than  she  can  in  running  down  the  trades  west,  time,  which 
now  is  worth  so  much  in  navigation,  would  be  somewhat 
in  favor  of  the  cape  Horn  route,  even  to  Canton." 

§  91.  EOUTE  FROM  VALPARAISO  OR  CALLAO  TO  NEW 
CALEDONIA  AND  NEW  ZEALAND.— General  observations  on 
this  route  will  be  found  in  §  89,  to  which  we  will  add  the 
following  instructions : 

After  leaving  Valparaiso,  especially  in  an  auxiliary 
steamer,  and  when  the  sun  is  in  the  S.  hemisphere,  the 
route  lies  through  the  southern  part  of  the  Paumota  archi- 
pelago and  along  the  parallel  of  20°  S.,  (vide  §  93.)  But 
sailing-ships  will,  we  think,  always  do  better  if  they  steer 
for  Fatu-Hiva,  after  entering  the  trades.  Starting  from 
Callao,  they  should  certainly  head  for  the  Marquesas.  Af- 
ter correcting  their  position,  by  sighting  Eatu-Hiva,  they 
should  follow  the  instructions  given  in  §  132  for  vessels 
bound  to  New  Caledonia  and  New  Zealand. 

As  a  general  rule,  it  is  always  easy  to  reach  Noumea, 
since  this  route  lies  entirely  in  the  trade  belt.  The  wind 
will  always  be  found  steady,  and  especially  settled,  from 
March  to  October,  (vide  §  4.) 

Prom  Decem-  Ships  bound  to  New  Zealand  during  these  months  should 
steer,  after  leaving  Fatu-Hiva,  so  as  to  pass  to  the  west  of 
Cook's  group  j  thence  S.  of  Nicholson's  shoal  ;  they  should 
cross  the  tropic  near  173°  W. ;  and  pass  to  the  westward 
of  the  Kermadec  isles. 

From  May  to  At  this  season  it  is  preferable  to  pass  to  the  northward 
and  westward  of  the  Tonga  islandsand  to  intersect  the  tropic 
near  180°  or  178°  E.  From  this  west  point  there  will  be 


FROM  VALPARAISO   TO   CHINA. 

fewer  chances  of  being  set  to  leeward  after  running  out  of 
the  trades  and  while  heading  for  the  Bay  of  Islands  with 
the  prevalent  westerly  winds,  (vide  §  132.) 

§  92.  BOUTE  FROM  VALPARAISO  OR  CALLAO  TO  CHINA.* 
—The  passage  from  South  America  to  China  may  be  made 
by  either  the  NE.  or  SE.  trades.  These  two  routes  are 
called  respectively  the  northerly  and  southerly. 

The  southerly  route  is  to  be  preferred  by  vessels  leaving 
Valparaiso  or  Callao  from  February  to  July.  The  northerly 
route  is  the  better  one  during  the  remainder  of  the  year. 

1st.  The  southerly  route.— First  head,  as  has  been  stated 
in  §§  89  and  91,  so  as  to  make  Fatu-Hiva,  thence  steer  to 
the  southward  of  the  Gilbert  group  and  to  the  northward 
of  the  Pelew  islands.  After  this  shape  the  course — if  the 
passage  is  being  made  between  March  and  October — toward 
the  strait  of  San  Bernardino,  (vide  §  101,)  and  enter  the 
China  sea  through  the  passage  between  Luzon  and  Mindoro. 
Here  the  SW.  monsoon  prevails.  But  from  October  to 
March,  after  leaving  the  Pelew  islands,  keep  to  the  north- 
ward of  the  Philippines,  and  gain  the  China  sea  by  passing 
through  the  Bashee  group.  Thence  the  passage  to  Hong 
Kong  will  be  easy,  the  NE.  monsoon  being  favorable. 

There  is  also  another  route  which  has  its  advantages  for 
ships  coming  from  the  coast  of  America  from  February  to 
July.  To  follow  it,  steer,  after  sighting  Fatu-Hiva,  so  as 
to  intersect  the  line  near  166°  or  168°  W.  Then  take  a  N  W. 
direction,  and  pass  north  of  the  Marshall  group.  After 
crossing  the  line  at  166°  W.,  vessels  can  equally  as  well  pass 
between  Bonham  island  (Ralick  group)  and  Mulgrave  island 
(Radack  group ;)  and  then  make  to  N  W.  between  the  two 
chains  of  islands.  In  both  cases,  after  they  have  once 
passed  to  the  northward  of  the  Marshall  group,  they  will 
make  rapidly  to  the  westward,  keeping  to  the  southward  of 
Guam  island,  (Marianas ;)  after  this  make  for  San  Bernardino 
strait,  in  the  same  manner  as  advised  during  the  SW.  mon- 
soon. 

2d.  Northerly  route. — After  leaving  Valparaiso  or  Callao, 
head,  with  the  SE.  trades,  to  cross  the  line  near  138°  W., 
and  10°  N.  near  143°  W. ;  the  NE.  trades  will  be  found  near 
this  parallel.  The  parallel  of  18°  N.  should  be  crossed  in 

*  Instructions  for  the  " cape  Horn  route"  will  be  found  in  §  90. 


150  FROM  VALPARAISO   TO   TAHITI. 

the  neighborhood  of  160°  W.  Thence  follow  the  instructions 
given  in  §  101. 

§  93.  KOUTE  FROM  VALPARAISO  TO  THE  MARQUESAS 
AND  TAHITI. — Vessels  starting  from  Valparaiso  and  bound 
to  the  Marquesas  islands  should  cross  the  tropic  near  88° 
W.,  and  12°  S.  at  108°  W. ;  and  then  lay  a  course  straight 
for  Fatu-Hiva,  (or  Magdelena;)  from  this  island  the  anchor- 
age in  Ta'io-Hae  bay  (Nukathiva)  is  easily  reached.  Sail- 
ing-ships bound  to  Tahiti  will  also  find  it  to  their  advan- 
tage to  use  the  same  route.  After  sighting  Fatu-Hiva 
they  can  run  through  the  Paumota  group,  as  stated  in 
§  129  ;  but  it  is  shorter  to  cross  the  tropic  near  98°  W.  and 
20°  S.  near  118°  W.,  and  make  the  westing  through  the 
archipelago  on  this  parallel,  which  is  comparatively  clear 
of  dangers. 

According  to  Wilkes  a  ship  may  keep  on  the  20th  par- 
allel until  she  reaches  141°  or  142°  TV.,  and  then  head  for 
Tahiti  direct.  On  this  route,  Carysford  island  (Tureia) 
will  be  sighted  to  the  southward  at  about  138°  W.,  and 
Whitsunday  island  (Xukutavake)  to  the  northward  at  about 
139°  W.  Still  keep  on  the  20th  parallel  and  run  between 
Barrow  island,  (Vanavana,)  long.  139°  05'  W.,  and  Byam- 
Martin  island,  (Pinaki,)  long.  140°  25'  W.  Thence  pass  to 
northward  of  St.  Paul,  (Hereheretue,)  long.  145°  05'  W.  All 
these  islands  are  visible  at  a  distance  of  from  7  to  10  miles. 

Captain  Richard  Fay  gives  the  following  directions  for 
making  a  landfall  at  the  Society  islands  from  the  south- 
ward :  "  It  is  always  dangerous  to  approach  the  Paumota 
group  from  the  southward  or  southward  and  westward ; 
pass  west  of  Moorea,  and  then  steer  for  Tahiti.  However, 
it  is  an  easy  matter  during  the  good  season  to  make  Tahiti 
from  the  east  by  passing  between  Auaa  and  Maitea  islands, 
and  very  near  the  latter.  Keep  a  good  distance  from  the 
NE.  coast  of  Tahiti,  and  make  the  landfall  at  point  Venus ;  * 
but  do  not  run  in  closer  than  6  miles,  on  account  of  the 
reefs  which  extend  for  4  or  5  miles  off  shore,  especially  be- 
1  tween  Mahena  and  an  islet  situated  to  the  E.  of  point  Venus. 

u  By  following  this  last  route  you  will  be  able  to  make  to 
the  northward  on  the  starboard  tack,  with  a  free  wind, 
which  afterward  hauls  aft  as  you  approach  the  land. 
When  as  high  as  point  Venus  you  can  run  inside  the  reef 
by  the  Tanoa  or  Papiete  passage,  according  to  the  appear- 

*  There  is  a  light  on  point  Venus,  (vide  §  184.) 


FROM  CALLAO   TO   TAHITI.  151 

ance  of  the  weather.  The  pilot  will,  however,  come  on 
board  and  take  the  ship,  by  one  or  the  other  of  the  passes, 
to  the  anchorage  of  Papiete,  where  come  to  in  7, 8,  or  9  fath- 
oms of  water;  bottom,  sand  and  mud. 

"  Vessels  coming  from  the  E.  or  Valparaiso,  and  bound 
to  Nukahiva,  should  sight  Magdelena  island,  situated  to 
the  southward  of  Nukahiva.  They  should  then  head  for 
Taio-Hae  bay  or  Comptroller  bay.  The  latter  is  situated 
on  the  eastern  coast  of  the  island,  and  is  larger  than  the 
former ;  but  it  is  far  from  the  French  station  and  the  resi- 
dence of  the  chief  at  Taio-Hae." 

Observations  on  this  route  by  Mr.  0.  Biddlecombe,  Master 
E.  M.  8.  Actwon. — "  On  leaving  the  coast  of  Chile  or  Peru, 
run  into  the  SE.  trade-wind,  or  in  latitude  20°  S.,  as  soon 
as  possible,  when  you  will  generally  have  strong  easterly 
winds  and  fine  weather;  you  may  then  stand  to  the  west- 
ward in  that  latitude  till  you  bring  Pitcairn  island  to  bear 
about  SW.,  when  you  should  steer  for  it,  taking  care  not  to 
get  to  the  westward  of  the  island,  as  the  current  runs 
strongly  to  the  westward,  owing  to  the  prevailing  easterly 
wind,  except  about  December  and  January,  when  a  north- 
erly or  NW.  gale  sometimes  sets  in.  From  Pitcairn  island 
you  will  be  enabled  to  shape  a  course  for  the  Marquesas, 
taking  care  then  to  keep  to  the  eastward,  as  the  SE.  or 
SSE.  trade  blows  through  the  islands." 

§  94.  EOUTE  FROM  CALLAO  TO  THE  MARQUESAS  AND 
TAHITI. — After  leaving  Callao  or  any  of  the  adjacent  ports 
the  course  should  be  west  to  gain  the  trades,  which  will  be 
found  quite  near  land.  Afterward,  there  are  two  routes, 
either  of  which  may  be  followed.  The  first  is  a  direct  one 
to  the  Paumota  islands;  the  second  takes  the  navigator 
within  sight  of  Fatu-Hiva,  and  then  along  the  northern 
edge  of  the  Paumotas. 

Both  passages  are  easy,  and  only  demand  attention  while 
passing  the  low  islands  of  the  Paumota  group.  The  trades 
grow  fairer  as  the  ship  clears  the  coast.  In  the  neighbor- 
hood of  the  Paumotas  they  often  become  squally  and  vari- 
able. 

Apropos  of  the  direct  route  we  will  cite  Wilkes>?s  remarks, 
(vide  "  U.  S.  Exploring  Expedition:") 

a  Coming  from  the  eastward,  from  Callao  for  instance, 
the  most  direct  route  is  to  follow  the  parallel  of  18°  30'  S. 


152  FROM  VALPARAISO   TO   THE   SANDWICH  ISLANDS. 

You  will  thus  sight  Clermont-Tonnerre  island,  (PuJcaruha,) 
long.  136°  20'  W.,  and  can  pass  either  to  the  northward  or 
southward  of  Series  island,  (Reao  ;)  thence  shape  the  course 
to  double  Aki-Aki  to  the  northward,  and  pass  Harp  island 
(Hao)  to  the  southward.  Afterward,  sail  to  the  southward 
of  Dawhaidia,  (or  of  the  two  groups,  Eavahere  and  Maro- 
kau,)  and  head  for  Tahiti.  The  only  danger  by  this  route 
appears  to  be  the  Bayers.  (Reiotoua;)  but  this  group,  sup- 
posed to  be  situated  at  18°  20'  S.,  143°  07'  W.,  has  been 
looked  for  in  vain  by  Lieutenant  Parchappe,  and  has  been 
erased  from  the  latest  edition  of  charts. 

"There  is  still  another  route,  on  the  parallel  of  15°  S. 
By  this  you  will  first  sight  Honden,  (Puka-Puka,)  from  which 
make  a  straight  course  for  Kotzebue,  (Aratika,)  or  the 
northern  part  of  King,  (Taiaro.)  Thence  pass  to  the  north- 
ward of  Vincennes,  (Kauehi,)  and  to  the  southward  of 
Elizabeth  (Toau)  and  Greig,  (Niau,)  and  steer  for  Tahiti." 

As  we  have  stated,  it  is  preferable  to  sight  Fatu-Hiva  or 
Magdelena  before  making  for  the  Pauraota  group,  (vide 
§§  103  and  129.)  This  is  the  most  frequented  route  from  Gal- 
lao  or  Payta  to  Ta'io-Hae  bay,  (Marquesas.) 

A  westerly  current  may  be  looked  for  in  this  passage  run- 
ning at  the  rate  of  at  least  10  miles  per  day.  If  no  observa- 
tions can  be  obtained,  it  will  be  well  to  count  on  a  speed 
of  20  miles,  especially  if  the  course  be  for  the  Paumotas 
direct. 

§  95.  ROUTE  FROM:  VALPARAISO  OR  CALLAO  TO  THE 
SANDWICH  ISLANDS.— After  losing  sight  of  the  coast  of 
South  America,  make  for  the  SE.  trade  region,  steering 
NIJTW.  or  KW.  from  Valparaiso,  and  W.  from  Callao.  Af- 
ter reaching  the  trades  head  for  the  crossings  mentioned 
below. 

OcTobS-.June  to  From  June  to  October  cross  the  equator  between  133° 
and  138°  W.,  and  10°  N.  at  140^  or  141°  W.,  thus  avoiding 
the  constant  calms  which  prevail  to  the  eastward  of  333° 
W.  Ships  generally  carry  the  SE.  trades  to  10°  U.,  and 
even  beyond  that  parallel ;  passing  from  one  set  of  trades 
to  the  other  without  intervening  calms. 
From  October  From  October  to  June  cross  the  line  between  132°  and 

to  June. 

1340  W.,  and  100  K  at  138°  W.  The  ship  will  lose  the  SE. 
trades  between  the  equator  and  10°  N.  and  experience  few 
or  no  calms. 


FROM  PANAMA  TO   CHINA.  153 

Beyond  10°  N.,  steer  with  the  NE.  trade-winds,  so  as  to 
fetch  well  to  windward  of  the  port  of  destination,  keeping 
well  to  the  E.  of  Hawaii,  and  stand  in  for  the  land  on  a 
parallel  north  of  the  port.  Navigators  should  remember 
that  the  equatorial  current  may  get  them  to  the  westward 
and  to  leeward.  If  bound  to  Honolulu,  they  should  make 
the  island  of  Maui  from  the  northward. 

§  96.  BOUTE  FROM  PANAMA  TO  AUSTRALIA,  NEW  CALE- 
DONIA, AND  NEW  ZEALAND. — Starting  from  Panama  and 
bound  to  the  W.,  it  will  be  advisable  to  make  as  much 
southing  as  possible  in  order  to  reach  the  SE.  trades,  (vide 
§§  62  and  77.)  Vessels  whose  destination  is  Australia,  should 
therefore  head  on  the  same  route  as  that  described  for  the 
passage  to  San  Francisco  or  Callao., 

It  will  generally  be  very  advantageous  to  cross  the  line 
east  of  the  Galapagos,  near  83°  W.,  when  possible.  Auxil- 
iary steamers  will,  of  course,  always  follow  this  easterly 
route.  If  compelled  to  pass  north  of  the  Galapagos,  the 
chances  are  great  that  they  will  be  detained  by  calms  and 
light,  baffling  airs,  except  during  October,  November,  and 
December,  when  the  winds  are  more  settled. 

After  the  trades  are  once  reached  to  the  southward  of  the 
line,  they  should  steer  for  the  high  lands  of  Fatu-Hiva, 
(Marquesas.)  For  details  concerning  the  remainder  of  the 
voyage  vide  §  91. 

§  97.  BOUTE  FROM  PANAMA  TO  CHINA.— First  follow  the 
routes  given  in  the  preceding  paragraph,  and  that  for  mak- 
ing the  passage  from  Panama  to  San  Francisco  contained  in 
§62. 

If  the  point  of  departure  be  Central  America  or  Mexico, 
follow  the  instructions  given  in  §  63.  An  example  of  this 
passage  will  also  be  found  in  §  99.  These  instructions  all 
apply  until  the  region  of  steady  NE.  trades  is  attained. 

Vessels  should  afterward  steer  (with  the  NE.  wind)  a 
course  that  will  bring  them  to  the  meridian  of  the  Sand- 
wich islands  between  the  parallels  of  15°  and  20°  N.,  and 
then  finish  the  voyage  as  described  in  §  101. 

§  98.  BOUTE  FROM  PANAMA  TO  THE  MARQUESAS  AND 
TAHITI. — Instructions  relating  to  this  passage  may  be  found 
in  §  96.  They  can  be  abbreviated  as  follows : 

After  leaving  Panama  make  to  the  southward  as  much  as 
possible,  until  the  SE.  trades  S.  of  the  line  are  reached. 


154  FROM  PANAMA  TO   THE  SANDWICH  ISLANDS. 

Then  head  for  Fatu-Hiva,  and  finish  the  voyage  as  described 
in  §§  103  and  129. 

§  99.  KOUTE  FROM  PANAMA  TO  THE  SANDWICH  ISLANDS. 
— Reach  the  SE.  trades  as  soon  as  possible,  following  the 
instructions  given  in  §§  62  and  96.  Afterward  cross  the 
equator  (to  the  N.)  near  128°  W. ;  10°  N.  near  138°  W.:  and 
finish  the  passage  in  accordance  with  §  95.  Be  careful  to 
reach  a  parallel  to  the  northward  of  the  destination  as  soon 
as  possible. 

We  will,  in  addition,  give  as  an  example  of  this  passage 
an  extract  from  volume  19,  Ann.  Hydr.<  taken  from  the  log 
of  the  frigate  Havana,  Captain  Harvey  : 

"  On  the  30th  June  we  left  Herradura  bay,  (E.  coast  of  the 
gulf  of  Nicoya.)  We  experienced  light  and  variable  winds, 
calms,  squalls,  rain,  and  often  thunder-storms,  until  we 
reached  106°  W.  5  and,  indeed,  the  weather  was  always 
variable  and  squally  until  the  last  week  of  the  passage. 
From  the  28th  July,  lat.  15°  K,  long.  113°  W.,  to  the  9th 
August,  lat.  14°  N.,  long.  127°  W.,  we  had  westerly  winds, 
in  accordance  with  Maury's  instructions  for  this  season. 
Between  125°  and  140°  W.  the  wind  was  from  N.  by  W.  to 
N.  by  E. ;  it  then  shifted  to  NE.  We  sighted  the  island  of 
Maul  on  the  morning  of  the  19th,  and  anchored  the  same 
evening  at  Honolulu  in  8  fathoms;  that  is  too  close  inshore, 
for  the  best  anchorage  is  in  14  or  15  fathoms. 

u According  to  Maury  this  passage  can  be  more  quickly 
made  by  pushing  to  the  S.  and  S  W.,  until  you  meet  the  SE. 
trades  well  over  the  line,  between  2°  and  5°  N. ;  then  run 
to  the  westward  till  between  115°  and  125°  W.  Then  bear 
to  the  northward,  sooner  or  later,  according  to  the  season. 

"  In  summer  the  last  longitude  (125°)  should  be  preferred. 
After  the  zone  of 'doldrums'  you  will  reach  the  region  of 
NE.  trades.  You  will  thus  avoid  the  unfavorable  weather 
of  the  Central  American  coast. 

"  The  Swift,  by  taking  this  route,  went  from  Panama  to 
Honolulu  in  47  days.  But  in  1848,  the  Herald,  notwith- 
standing the  fact  that  she  was  towed  a  distance  of  1,000 
miles  from  Panama,  took  42  days  to  clear  the  '  doldrums,' 
crossing  them  on  the  parallel  of  9°  or  10°  N. 

u  It  is  best  at  all  seasons,  when  approaching  the  Sand- 


FROM  SAN  FRANCISCO   TO   AUSTRALIA.  155 

wich  islands,  to  give  Hawaii  a  wide  berth,  and  to  make  the 
land  on  the  north  coast  of  Maui.  Do  not  anchor  off  Hono- 
lulu during  the  four  winter  months,  (from  December  to 
April,)  as  the  southerly  squalls  are  dangerous  and  the  hold- 
ing-ground poor.  During  the  rest  of  the  year  vessels  can 
safely  anchor  in  from  15  to  20  fathoms ;  bringing  Punch- 
bowl to  bear  NE.  by  E.,  and  the  point  on  Diamond  head  E. 
byS. 

"Though  the  passage  leading  to  the  port  is  well  buoyed, 
it  is  dangerous  to  pass  through,  even  with  a  favorable  wind, 
unless  thoroughly  acquainted  with  the  reefs." 

§  100.  BOUTE  FROM  SAN  FRANCISCO  TO  AUSTRALIA, 
NEW  CALEDONIA,  AND  NEW  ZEALAND. — We  will  first  give 
Maury's  instructions  for  the  passage  from  San  Francisco  to 
Sidney : 

"  From  California  to  Australia  the  route  out  of  San  Fran- 
cisco should  be  down  as  soon  as  possible  into  the  NE.  trades, 
as  though  you  were  bound  to  China,  India,  or  the  Sand- 
wich islands,  crossing  the  equator  anywhere  between  the 
meridians  of  140°  and  150°  W.,  according  as  you  prefer  to 
run  down  your  westing  principally  in  the  NE.  or  SE.  trades. 

"  I  give  the  preference  to  the  latter,  generally,  because 
they  are  more  steady,  reliable,  and  certain  than  their  conge- 
ners of  the  northern  hemisphere;  at  least  such  is  the  rule. 
The  distance  by  this  route  to  Bass  strait  will  be  about 
7,000  miles,  and  an  increase  upon  this  of  the  average  dis- 
tance to  be  sailed  on  the  passage  going,  together  with  the 
distance  returning,  will  not  amount,  as  before  stated,  to 
more  than  six  or  eight  hundred  miles. 

u  Aim  to  cross  30°  S.,  on  the  passage  from  California  to 
Australia,  in  the  neighborhood  of  170°  E.  Thence  the 
course  is  between  Australia  and  New  Zealand,  direct  for 
your  port. 

"  In  these  passages,  as  on  the  California  routes  generally, 
navigators  have  to  cross  the  calms  of  Cancer  and  Capricorn, 
as  well  as  those  of  the  equator,  which  last  are  found  between 
the  NE.  and  SE.  trade- winds,  but  upon  different  parallels, 
according  to  the  season  of  the  year. 

u  It  may  therefore  be  remarked  here,  once  for  all — and 
which  remark  navigators,  bound  either  from  the  United 
States  or  from  Panama  to  California,  are  requested  to  bear 
in  mind — that  the  barometer  will  often  enable  the  navigator 


156  FROM  SAN  FRANCISCO   TO   CHINA. 

to  tell  when  he  has  crossed  these  belts  of  calms  and  entered 
the  trades." 

The  course  should  therefore  be  first  down  into  the  region 
of  the  ]SE.  trades,  as  stated  in  §  69.    After  reaching  these 
steady,  settled  winds,  make  the  following  crossings : 
January     From  January  to  July,  cross  10°  N.  at  143°  W. ;  and  the 
equator  at  148°  W. 

In  January,  February,  and  March,  no  calms,  properly 
speaking,  will  be  found  between  the  NE.  and  SE.  trades. 

In  April,  May,  and  June  there  will  be  only  about  2  per 
cent,  of  chances  of  calms  in  this  region. 

gtS,  S'  st£  Iu  July>  August,  and  September,  cross  10°  N.  at  148°  W., 
and  the  equator  between  150°  and  153°  W.  In  this  season, 
and  if  the  precaution  be  taken  not  to  follow  a  more  easterly 
route  than  the  one  indicated,  there  will  be  only  from  2  to  3 
per  cent,  of  calms  between  10°  K  and  the  line. 

to^aZa?y.tober  From  October  to  January,  cross  1(P  N.  at  138°  W.,  and 
the  equator  at  143°  W.  By  following  this  route  there  is 
only  from  2  to  3  per  cent,  chances  of  calms  between  the  two 
trade-wind  regions.  Farther  to  the  westward,  at  this  sea- 
son, the  ship  would  be  liable  to  meet  more  calms. 

At  all  seasons  cross  10°  S.  near  154°  or  156°  W.,  or  any- 
where between  those  meridians.  For  information  regarding 
the  termination  of  the  voyage,  vide  §§  91,  96,  and  132. 

§  101.  KOTJTE  FROM  SAN  FRANCISCO  TO  CHINA. — We 
will  commence  with  Maury's  instructions  on  this  passage : 

"  The  distance  between  California  and  China  being  nearly 
double  the  distance  between  the  United  States  and  Europe,  a 
vessel  navigating  these  waters  has  a  wider  range  in  latitude 
than  one  trading  across  the  Atlantic  has,  in  which  to  hunt 
good  winds.  All  vessels  going  west  from  California  will, 
almost  of  necessity,  stand  to  the  southward  and  westward 
for  the  NE.  trades.  In  summer  and  fall  they  need  not  go 
as  far  south  for  steady  trades  as  they  do  in  winter  and 
spring." 

Maury  then  gives  a  copy  of  a  letter  addressed  to  him  by 
Captain  Ranlttt,  of  the  Surprise,  observing  at  the  same 
time — and  with  reason — that  this  ship  made  her  westerly  pas- 
sage on  a  parallel  too  near  to  the  u  calms  of  Cancer ;"  that  is, 
too  far  north.  We  will  quote  a  portion  of  Captain  Ranlett's 
letter,  though  it  should  be  understood  that  the  same  route 
is  not  to  be  followed  : 


FROM  SAN  FRANCISCO   TO   CHINA.  157 

"  Last  year  I  crossed  from  San  Francisco  to  Shanghai  in 
the  Surprise,  and  had  a  good  ran  of  38  days  across.  Your 
'wind  and  current  charts '  were  not  then  out,  I  think;  at 
least  I  had  not  seen  them ;  I,  for  want  of  some  such  direc- 
tions as  you  give,  took  my  own  course,  and  kept  far  to  the 
north  of  the  Sandwich  islands,  and  had  a  tolerably  good 
run  all  the  way,  with  much  fine  weather,  while  the  Mystery 
and  some  others  went  farther  south  in  the  old  track,  and 
had  much  wet  and  squally  weather,  and  longer  passages 
generally.  This  voyage  I  left  nearly  one  month  later;  and, 
although  I  have  your  charts  of  the  Pacific,  I  kept  north  of 
all  the  tracks  given,  and  have  had  very  light  winds  all  the 
way  across;  in  fact,  my  sails  have  flapped  against  the 
masts  all  the  way.  I  sailed,  after  leaving  San  Francisco, 
5,580  miles  by  log,  without  taking  in  a  skysail  or  a  royal  stud- 
ding-sail, the  wind  veering  and  hauling  from  ESE.  to  ENE. 
generally;  weather  fine  as  one  could  wish,  but  too  hot  to 
work  in  the  sun  much  of  the  time.  I  passed  between  North 
and  Sulphur  islands,  two  of  the  Volcano  group.  The  north 
and  south  islands  of  this  group  may  be  run  for  at  any  time, 
being  high  and  bold;  but  the  middle  one  is  low  to  the  east- 
ward, and  cannot  be  seen  far  in  the  night ;  the  high  hill  is 
on  the  western  side.  I  passed  between  Ousima  and  Kaki- 
rooma  without  difficulty,  and  saw  no  dangers,  except  a 
high  lot  of  rocks  about  five  miles  from  the  N\V.  point  of 
Kakirooma,  and  what  appeared  to  be  an  island  off  the  SW. 
end  of  Ousima.  The  seas  break  heavily  all  around  this 
heap  of  rocks,  and  in  places  between  it  and  the  mainland 
of  Kakirooma,  and,  although  there  is  a  wide  passage  be- 
tween that  and  the  shore,  I  would  not  attempt  it  unless 
surveyed. 

"  I  arrived  on  the  22d  October,  after  a  passage  of  55  days. 
Found  the  Golden  Gate  in  before  me;  she  sailed  10  days 
after  me,  and  had  a  strong  KE.  wind  all  the  way  across,  ex- 
cepting a  few  days.  The  Sicordfish  was  42  days  from  San 
Francisco  to  Hong  Kong;  she  sailed  two  days  before  me. 
I  presume  she  went  well  south.  I  beat  all  the  passages  across 
last  year,  but  this  year  was  beaten  by  all,  though  I  took 
the  same  track." 

Our  own  advice,  therefore,  is :  To  reach  the  NE.  trades  as 
soon  as  possible,  (vide  §  67,  and  the  following.)  Then  run 
to  the  west,  on  a  parallel,  not  too  near  the  northern  limit  of 


158  FROM  SAN  FKANCISCO  TO  CHINA. 

the  trade-winds,  thus  avoiding  the  "  horse  latitudes."  In 
order  to  do  this  choose  some  parallel  between  20°  and  15° 
K,  keeping  near  20°  K,  between  June  and  October ;  and, 
on  the  contrary,  in  the  neighborhood  of  15°  between  De- 
cember and  March.  At  all  seasons  pass  south  of  the  Sand- 
wich islands  and  ET.  of  the  Marshall  group. 

From  May  to  Erom  May  to  October,  when  the  SW.  monsoon  prevails, 
keep  to  the  northward  of  the  Carolines  islands,  and  leave 
the  Marianas  on  the  northern  hand.  If  deemed  advisable 
Guam  island  can  be  sighted.  The  island  is  low  on  the  north 
coast,  but  quite  mountainous  and  steep  on  the  south  side. 
Afterward  steer  for  the  strait  of  San  Bernardino,  with  the 
"NE.  winds.  These  will  gradually  change  to  variable  winds 
with  squalls,  and  then  to  the  SW.  monsoon  as  the  vessel 
approaches  the  Philippines.  Enter  the  China  sea  by  the 
passage  between  Mindoro  and  Luzon,  and  end  the  voyage 
as  stated  in  §  161.  Keep  a  lookout  for  leeway  while  ap- 
proaching the  coast  of  China. 

°ct°ber  From  October  to  April,  when  the  HE.  monsoon  prevails, 
run  north  of  the  Mariana  group,  sighting,  if  convenient, 
the  Farallons  de  Pajaros.  These  are  volcanic  rocks,  the 
highest  of  which  has  an  altitude  of  about  800  feet.  Some 
captains  pass  between  the  Grigan  islands  and  Assumption ; 
the  former  are  a  mass  of  mountainous  rocks,  the  most  ele- 
vated peak  being  about  1,300  feet  high.  Assumption  is  a 
volcanic  cone;  its  diameter  at  the  base  is  about  one  mile, 
and  its  height  about  2,GOO  feet.  It  will  generally  be  .best 
to  pass  to  the  northward  of  all  the  Mariana  group,  as  we 
have  before  stated;  quicker  passages  are  generally  made 
in  this  way. 

The  entrance  to  the  China  sea  is  by  the  Bashee  islands. 

Note  on  the  passage  via  the  strait  of  San  Bernardino,  on 
the  voyage  to  Hong  Kong,  from  June  to  October. — Before  en- 
tering  the  strait  of  San  Bernardino,  it  is  recommended, 
when  the  ivind  is  from  8.  or  _E7.,  to  sight  cape  Espiritu- 
Santo,  which  can  be  seen  for  forty  miles.  Leave  the 
island  of  San  Bernardino  on  either  hand,  according  to  cir- 
cumstances, then  pass  to  starboard  of  Capul,  and  to  port  of 
the  islets  off  the  SE.  point  of  Luzon.  Look  out  for  currents 
which  often  run  here  very  violently.  Sail  around  Ticao  from 
the  E.  and  N.,  and  pass  between  Burias  and  Masbate,  then 
between  Marinduque  and  the  islet  of  Banlon.  Thence  run 


FROM  SAN   FRANCISCO   TO    TAHITI.  159 

between  Mindoro  and  Luzon,  and  pass  successively  to  the 
south  of  Green  island  and  Maricaban ;  skirt  point  Santiago, 
and  double  from  the  north,  and  at  a  good  distance,  Ambil, 
Lubaug,  and  Cabra  islands.  From  this  position  a  ship  can 
run  up,  off  the  W.  coast  of  Luzon,  on  a  N.  by  W.  course,  as 
far  as  cape  Boliuao.  For  further  information  vide  §  161. 

§  102.  EOUTE  FROM  SAN  FRANCISCO  TO  THE  SANDWICH 
ISLANDS. — After  leaving  San  Francisco  run  for  the  trades, 
with  the  prevalent  north-westerly  winds  common  on  the 
coast.  (Vide  §§  24,  67,  and  the  subsequent  ones.) 

From  June  to  December  clear  the  coast  as  soon  as  possi-  DJeTberUne  to 
ble,  steering  WSW.  for  instance.    The  calms  to  the  east- 
ward of  128°  and  133°  W.  will  thus  be  avoided.    The  trades 
always  blow  south  of  the  tropic  of  Cancer.   Near  the  Sandwich 
islands  the  trades  may  possibly  haul  to  E.,  or  even  to  SE. 

From  October  to  January,  particularly,  the  wind  may 
blow  from  SE.  in  the  neighborhood  of  the  tropic.  to^aZary?tober 

The  land  should  be  approached  from  ENE.,  when  all  the 
possible  winds  will  be  fair.  When  making  a  landfall  re- 
member that  the  currents  often  run  at  the  rate  of  20  miles 
per  day,  and  that  calms  ancf  baffling  winds  are  common  to 
leeward  of  the  islands. 

§  103.  ROUTE  FROM  SAN  FRANCISCO  TO  TAHITI.— The 
portion  of  this  route  from  San  Francisco  to  the  trades  is 
the  same  as  that  described  in  the  preceding  paragraphs. 
Afterward  head,  nearly,  as  if  bound  to  Valparaiso,  (vide 
§71.)  Cross  the  equator  between  118°  and  123°  W.,  from 
May  to  October,  and  between  113°  and  118°  W.,  from  Oc- 
tober to  May. 

Beyond  the  equator  run  for  the  high  lands  of  Fatu- 
Hiva,  then  through  the  Paumota  group  toward  Tahiti. 
As  this  island  is  surrounded  by  a  belt  of  reefs,  b«  very 
watchful  on  Hearing  it.  Artemise  bank  is  especially  dan- 
gerous. The  following  extract  from  Wilkes  indicates  the 
best  passages  through  the  Paumotas  : 

"  When  making  passage  from  the  north  to  Tahiti,  my 
advice  is  to  sight  Bangiroa,  (Uliegen,  Dean,  or  Nairsa,}  and 
to  pass  between  this  island  and  Tikahati,  (Krusenstern ;) 
this  passage  would  appear  to  be  the  best  and  safest.  If 
obliged  to  make  the  Paumotas  more  to  the  east,  (which  will 
be  the  case  when  coming  from  Fatu-Hiva,)  you  can  sight 
Ahii,  (Peacock ;)  the  position  of  the  W.  point  of  this  island 


160  FROM  SAN  FRANCISCO   TO   TAHITI. 

is  14°  35'  S.  and  146°  21'  W. ;  in  this  case  the  passage  be- 
tween Bangiroa  (Nairsa)  and  Arutua  (Rurick)  can  be  taken. 
You  can  pass  still  farther  to  the  eastward,  between  Earaka 
and  Katiu,  (Sacken  ;)  before  reaching  these  islands  you  can 
sight  Taiaro,  (King,)  and  afterward  sail  through  the  pas- 
sage between  Earaka,  Katiu,  and  Tahanea.  The  wind  often 
allows  vessels  to  keep  to  the  east  of  this  last  island. 

"We  would  also  recommend  another  more  westerly 
route.  By  this  captains  should  first  take  the  bearings  of 
Napuka  island,  (Disappointment,)  and  then  steer  about  SE., 
so  as  to  make  Angatau  island,  (AraktcJieff.)  Afterward 
double  successively  Ainanu,  (Holler,)  Hao,  (The  Harp,) 
Kengo-Nengo,  (Henry,)  and  Hereheretua,  (St.  Paul.) 

"In  all  this  advice,  I  have  taken  into  consideration  the 
prevalent  winds,  or  at  least  those  which  one  has  any  prob- 
ability of  meeting.  It  is  very  evident  that  the  Paumotas 
can  be  crossed  in  all  directions  by  navigators  at  home  in 
the  group  and  by  those  willing  to  run  the  risks  incident  to 
this  locality.  I  only  give,  however,  the  surest  routes,  and 
those  which  I  would  use  myself.  By  these  routes,  several 
islands,  where  shelter  can  be  found,  are  passed,  and  advan- 
tage may  be  taken  of  the  resources  of  the  group." 

For  further  information  concerning  that  part  of  the  pas- 
sage comprised  between  Fatu-Hiva  and  Tahiti,  vide  §  129. 


CHAPTER  IV. 

ROUTES  FROM  EUROPE  TO  AUSTRALIA,  NEW  CALEDONIA, 
AND  TAHITI,  AND  RETURN  ROUTES. 

§  104.  KOUTE  FROM  EUROPE  TO  AUSTRALIA.— This  pas- 
sage can  be  made  by  two  different  routes:  first,  by  the  cape 
of  Good  Hope,  or  the  southerly  route;  second,  by  Suez. 

1st.  The  southerly  route.* — Vessels  leaving  Europe  should 
cross  the  equator  west  of  25°  W.  from  November  to  May, 
and  east  of  this  meridian  from  May  to  November.  In  the 
SE.  trades  they  should  run  a  little  free,  and  always  attempt 
to  cross  the  meridian  of  the  cape  of  Good  Hope  south  of 
40°  S.  Much  depends  upon  the  parallel  on  which  the  pas- 
sage is  to  be  made;  the  length  of  the  voyage  especially  is 
dependent  on  the  captain's  choice  in  this  matter. 

Yet  the  views  of  different  authorities  are  widely  diver- 
gent :  Thus  the  instructions  of  the  British  Admiralty  ad- 
vise 39°  S.  as  the  proper  parallel.  In  the  extracts  from 
these  instructions,  to  be  found  farther  on,  useful  observa- 
tions are  given  on  the  passage  to  Sydney  after  leaving 
Tasmania.  Horsburgh  favors  the  same  parallel,  and  ex- 
presses a  very  marked  preference  for  the  passage  through 
Bass  strait.  In  the  present  paragraph  will  be  found  quo- 
tations relating  to  the  proper  route  to  be  taken  when  the 
passage  through  this  strait  is  used.  If  Maury  be  consulted, 
it  will  be  noted  that  he  is  strongly  in  favor  of  the  extreme 
southerly  route,  between  the  latitudes  of  45°  and  55°  S.  j 
the  choice  of  the  parallel  depends  on  the  season,  according 
to  him,  as  well  as  on  the  winds,  the  qualities  of  the  ship, 
etc.,  etc. 

The  voyage  to  Australia  only  being  made  by  good,  staunch, 
well-fitted-out  ships,  we  think  that  the  general  instructions 
should  particularly  relate  to  the  route  to  be  followed  under 
ordinary  conditions.  Our  opinion  is  that  merchant-vessels 

*  The  Atlantic  portion  of  this  route  is  also  treated  of  in  the  author's 
work  on  the  "Navigation  of  the  Atlantic  Ocean." 

11  N 


162  FROM  EUROPE   TO  AUSTRALIA. 

should  follow  Maury's  route,  but  without  going  too  far  to 
the  southward.  During  the  southern  winter,  and  especially 
from.  November  to  February,  they  should  keep  on  a  parallel 
south  o/43°;  they  can  descend  as  far  as  50°  S.,  or  even  be- 
yond that  parallel.  Quite  rapid  passages  have  been  made, 
in  summer,  near  50°  S.  The  weather  is  often  better,  the  sea 
smoother  than  it  is  between  42°  and  46°  S.,  while  the  chance 
of  meeting  icebergs  is  the  same. 

During  the  southern  winter,  that  is  from  May  to  Septem- 
ber, the  length  of  the  nights  (dangerous  on  account  of  ice- 
bergs) and  the  extreme  cold  will  generally  prevent  vessels 
from  going  so  far  south.  If  the  route  be  chosen  between  42° 
and  45°  S.,  we  think  a  good  passage  ought  to  be  the  result  at 
this  season. 

This  advice  accords  with  Maury's,  and  that  of  many  offi- 
cers who  have  made  the  passage. 

The  logs  of  the  Dutch  merchantmen  bound  from  the 
English  channel  to  Java,  prove  indisputably  that  the  ships 
which  kept  N.  o/40°  8.  met  twice  as  many  gales  as  those  which 
kept  S.  of  the  same  parallel. 

This  observation,  being  the  result  obtained  from  the 
mean  of  a  great  many  voyages,  seems  to  destroy  the  reason- 
ing of  certain  navigators  who  think  that  by  following  the 
English  Admiralty  route  they  will  have  less  bad  weather. 

This  latter  is  also  a  longer  route  than  the  more  southerly 
one,  where  the  degrees  of  longitude  are  shorter,  and  it 
would  also  seem  that  navigators  who  choose  it,  willingly 
place  their  vessels  in  a  zone  where  the  chances  of  storms 
are  twice  as  numerous. 

It  also  appears  probable  that  there  exists  an  intermediate 
belt,  situated  between  40°  and  43°  S.,  or  thereabouts,  where 
the  winds  are  unsteady,  very  variable,  and  accompanied  by 
rainy  and  damp  weather.  This  belt,  in  which  some  cap- 
tains believe  the  scurvy  is  apt  to  be  developed,  probably 
changes  its  latitude,  following  the  declination  of  the  sun  j 
it  is  found,  for  instance,  between  39°  and  41°  S.  from  May 
to  August ;  and  between  41°  and  43°  S.  from  November  to 
February. 

If  it  be  decided  not  to  follow  the  route  south  of  42°  or 
4£°  S.,  we  think  that  tbe  parallel  of  39°  is  to  be  preferred 
to  that  of  40°  or  41°  S. 

Ships  following  the  Admiralty  route,  on  39°  S.,*  will  have 


FROM  EUROPE  TO  AUSTRALIA.  163 

warmer  weather ;  but  will  generally  make  longer  passages. 
It  will,  however,  be  shortened  by  going  through  Bass 
strait.  Sailing-ships  should,  however,  avoid  passing  through 
this  strait  during  the  months  of  January,  February,  and 
March,  when  the  winds  come  out  from  ahead  or  the  east. 

Sailing-vessels  preferring  the  southerly  route,  between 
43°  and  52°  S.,  more  or  less  to  the  south  according  to  the 
season,  should  not  generally  pass  through  Bass  strait. 
They  should  rather  round  Tasmania  to  the  eastward  and 
make  Sydney,  as  stated  farther  on  at  the  end  of  our  ex- 
tract from  the  Admiralty  instructions. 

Auxiliary  steamers  following  our  advice  and  taking  the 
southerly  route,  can  shorten  the  last  part  of  the  voyage  a 
little  by  running  through  Bass  strait. 

A  ship  will  of  course  be  exposed  to  floating  ice  if  she  fol- 
lows the  southerly  route  j  but  the  chances  of  meeting  it  are 
small  on  the  parallel  39°  S. 

We  consider  the  Admiralty  route  as  disadvantageous  to 
the  interests  of  ship-owners;  we  hold  to  our  opinion,  already 
stated,  that  the  southerly  route  is  the  best ;  and  that  it  pre- 
sents no  especial  dangers  to  stout  and  well-equipped  vessels. 
Finally,  we  reiterate  that  the  chances  of  meeting  storms  are 
less  on  the  southerly  route  than  on  that  of  the  39th  parallel. 

There  now  only  remains  to  find  out  if  there  be  a  greater 
chance  of  meeting  icebergs  on  43°  S.  than  on  40°  or  50°. 
Now,  nothing  proves  (vide  §  43,  observation  No.  IV)  that 
vessels  sailing  on  the  various  parallels  between  43°  and  52° 
S.  should  expect  to  see  fewer  icebergs  at  one  edge  of  the 
belt  comprised  between  these  two  parallels  than  at  the 
other. 

Icebergs  are  more  numerous  in  high  latitudes,  (from  60°  to 
50°  S. ;)  but  they  drift  rapidly  to  the  north  and  quickly 
leave  these  localities.  On  the  contrary,  after  they  have 
been  carried  beyond  50°  S.  they  are  set  toward  NE.,  then 
toward  E.  by  the  current,  and  remain  in  warm  latitudes 
until  they  melt.  Still  it  is  best,  especially  in  the  south- 
ern winter,  not  to  go  farther  S.  than  the  51st  parallel. 

Captain  Guerin,  commanding  the  St.  Paul,  gives  the  fol- 
lowing account  of  his  meeting  with  icebergs  between  46° 
and  470  S.  and  4°  and  12°  E. : 

"  On  the  1st  January,  1867,  lat.  45°  51'  S.,  long.  4°  28'  E., 
sighted  an  iceberg  to  port,  distant  6  miles;  sighted  another 


164  FROM  EUROPE   TO   AUSTRALIA. 

2  hours  afterward.  Next  day  strong  breeze  from  NW.,  with 
thick  fog ;  position  at  noon,  46°  31'  S.  and  9°  08'  E.  At  8 
p.  m.,  an  immense  mountain  of  ice  loomed  up  in  the  fog 
right  under  our  bow ;  succeeded  in  avoiding  it.  At  10.15 
p.  m.  we  passed  close  by  a  small  detached  piece  of  floating 
ice.  This  was  the  last,  though  we  kept  the  courses  clewed 
up  all  the  night. 

At  daylight  we  were  completely  surrounded  by  icebergs. 
There  were  seven  large  ones,  and  numerous  little  bergs 
about  them.  At  noon  on  the  3d  January,  lat.  46°  56'  S., 
long.  11°  53'  E.,  took  an  ENE.  course,  in  order  to  run  out  of 
these  high  latitudes ;  the  advantages  of  the  southerly  route 
being  hardly  apparent,  at  least  in  January.  We  passed  our 
last  ice-island  on  the  night  of  the  3d  and  4th. 

"  Nothing  announced  the  approach  of  these  icebergs ;  the 
thermometer  showed  no  sudden  change  in  their  vicinity. 
At  46°  S.  the  temperature  of  the  air  was  41°,  and  the  water 
36^°.  It  was  almost  useless  to  keep  a  lookout  at  night,  on 
account  of  the  thick  fog ;  and  the  greatest  danger  we  had 
to  fear  was  from  the  numerous  little  icebergs  that  showed 
for  only  a  few  feet  above  the  sea.  The  principal  bergs  were 
from  160  to  330  feet  high.  They  should,  by  rights,  drift 
faster  than  the  small  ones;  consequently,  to  avoid  them,  I 
think  it  is  best  to  cross  the  groups  on  the  side  of  the  largest 
berg.  The  only  peculiarities  I  noticed  in  this  region  were 
the  tbick  fogs,  the  absence  of  birds,  an  unusually  smooth 
sea,  and  some  old  pieces  of  wreck." 

We  extract  the  following  table  from  the  Annales  Hydro- 
graphiques,  (vol.  18.)  The  reader  should  also  refer  to  §  43. 


ICEBERG    TABLE. 


165 


In  the  month 
of- 

Latitude 

S. 

Longitude. 

Name  of  vessel. 

Remarks. 

Jannary  

o     / 
At  44  00 

45  33 

o    / 
2  40  W 

10  40  W 

The  White  Swal- 
low. 

....do  

Met  floating  ice. 
Met  three  icebergs,  one 

43  40 

16  40  W 

The  Malay 

of  them  100  feet  long 
and  150  feet  high. 

Met  twenty  -six  icebergs 

June  

42  18 
45  00 

12  08  W 
48  43  E 

....do  
The  Panama  

of  different  sizes. 

Met  thirty-four  icebergs 
of  different  sizes. 

Met  two  large  icebergs. 

July 

49  32 

8  30  E 

The  Beverly  

Met  an  ice-field  and  ice- 

48 35 
47  15 

11  00  E 
16  03  E 

....do  
....do  

bergs- 
Met  forty  icebergs. 
Met  thirty  icebergs. 

46  50 
47  30 

20  23  E 
19  25  E 

....do  
....do  

Met  two  icebergs. 
Met  one  iceberg. 

48  08 
48  44 

37  45  E 
43  00  E 

...do  
....do  

Do. 
Do. 

September  .  . 

46  00 
47  30 

12  00  W 
10  55  W 

The  Gertrude  
.    do    

Met  one  large  iceberg. 
Met  two  small  icebergs. 

49  24 

1  39  "W 

....do  

Met  two  icebergs. 

October  

48  15 

52  10 
50  09 

45  00  E 

37  07  E 
29  26  E 

....do  

The  Great  Britain. 
The  Marion  

Met  one  very  large  ice- 
berg. 

Met  two  large  icebergs. 
Met  one  large  iceberg. 

40  39 
53  12 

51  10 

46  10  E 
21  23  E 

26  20  E 

....do  

The  Auckland  

....do  

Do. 

Mot  a  field  of  ice  and 
two  icebergs. 

Met  one  iceberg. 

November  .  . 

52  26 

19  42  E 

The  Oriental 

Met  one  large  iceber^. 

52  20 
51  03 

27  47  E 
32  21  E 

....do  

do 

Met  three  large  icebergs. 
Met  four  large  icebergs. 

December... 

51  20 
53  51 
43  38 

52  57 
43  33 
48  45 

37  06  E 
86  40  E 
8  15  E 

95  20  E 
18  10  E 
37  24  E 

....do  
....do  

The  Flying  Dutch- 
man.' 

The  Oriental  
The  Kongleader  .  . 
The  Malay  

Met  one  large  iceberg. 
Met  two  large  icebergs. 
Met  four  large  icebergs. 

Met  one  large  iceberg. 
Met  two  large  icebergs. 
Met  one   icebcrf    well 

worn. 

166  FROM  EUROPE   TO   AUSTRALIA. 

Having  given  these  general  considerations,  we  will  now 
quote  some  of  the  most  important  passages  from  the  Admi- 
ralty instructions,  Horsburgh,  Maury,  and  Desnoyers.  We 
will  afterward  give  a  few  extracts  from  the  logs  of  ships 
which  have  made  this  passage.  After  a  perusal  of  these 
various  authorities  each  captain  can  form  his  own  opinion, 
which,  we  candidly  admit,  may  be  very  different  from  our 
own.  At  whatever  conclusion  the  navigator  may  arrive, 
he  will,  however,  find  several  authors  for  and  several  against 
his  route.  Our  preceding  advice  seems  to  us  correct  for 
merchant- vessels,  and  is  based  on  all  past  experience  j  the 
accumulation  of  twenty  years'  knowledge  proving  the  cor- 
rectness of  Maury's  theory,  that  the  southerly  route  is  the 
best. 

The  Admiralty  Instructions. — The  English  Admiralty  give 
the  following  instructions  on  the  a  Eoute  to  Australia:'7 

"  Should  the  southern  route  to  Sydney  be  preferred,  a  ship 
running  down  her  longitude  in  39°  S.,  as  recommended,  and 
having  arrived  at  130°  E.?  should  get  to  the  southward  of 
Tasmania  on  the  meridian  of  145°  E.,  before  making  the 
land,  in  order  to  avoid  falling  in  with  its  rocky  western 
coast  in  the  night,  from  any  error  in  the  reckoning,  or  being 
caught  on  a  lee-shore  by  a  SW.  gale.  After  rounding  the 
South  cape,  a  ship,  not  bound  into  Hobart-town,  should 
give  a  berth  of  at  least  20  or  30  miles  to  cape  Pillar  and  the 
east  coast  of  Tasmania,  by  which  she  will  escape  the  baf- 
fling winds  and  calms  which  frequently  perplex  a  ship  in- 
shore while  a  steady  breeze  is  blowing  in  the  offing.  This 
is  more  particularly  desirable  in  suininer,when  easterly  winds 
prevail,  and  a  current  is  said  to  be  experienced  on  the  SE. 
coast  running  to  the  N.  by  E.  at  the  rate  of  three-quarters 
of  a  knot  at  20  to  60  miles  off  shore,  while  inshore  it  is  run- 
ning in  the  opposite  direction  with  nearly  double  that  velocity. 
From  30  miles  to  eastward  of  cape  Pillar,  the  distance  to 
cape  Howe  is  350  miles  ;  and  the  course  N.  by  E.  After 
just  sighting  the  cape  stand  to  the  northward  for  Port  Jack- 
son, remembering  that  there  will  probably  be  a  contrary 
current  running  down  the  coast  at  a  distance  of  from  20  to 
60  miles  from  the  land."  (Vide  §  29.) 

paraiieih°ice °f a      HorsburyWs  Instructions. — "Since  the  discovery  of  Bass 
strait,  the  passage  through  it  is  generally  preferred  to  that 


FROM  EUROPE   TO   AUSTRALIA.  167 

around  Van  Diemeu's  Laud,  as  it  is  equally  as  safe  and 
greatly  shortens  tlie  distance. 

"A  ship,  having  passed  the  island  of  St.  Paul,  and  intend- 
ing to  pass  through  Bass  strait,  may  get  into  lat.  30°  or  39° 
15'  S.,  then  steer  east  on  this  parallel.  As  she  advances, 
the  variation  will  rapidly  decrease;  in  about  long.  132°  E. 
there  will  be  1°  E. ;  and  having  advanced  1°  or  2°  more 
to  the  eastward,  she  will  begin  to  have  more  easterly  vari 
ation ;  at  King  island,  the  west  entrance  to  Bass  strait,  it 
is  8J  East  in  1863.  Although  the  opinion  appears  to  be  held 
by  many  that  the  passage  is  best  made  by  keeping  a  high 
southern  latitude,  the  propriety  of  adopting  the  parallel  of 
39°  S.,  as  above  recommended,  has*  been  already  confirmed 
by  the  experience  of  Captain  Erskiue,  of  H.  M.  S.  Havannah, 
who  performed  the  voyage  from  the  cape  of  Good  Hope  to 
Sydney  in  the  very  short  period  of  34  days,  leaving  the  cape 
on  the  3d  July  and  arriving  at  Sydney  on  the  7th  August. 
Captain  Tudor,  E.  ]$".,  when  in  command  of  the  East  India 
steam-vessel  Pluto,  however,  met  with  baffling  winds  on  the 
northern  parallel,  and  was  obliged  to  run  to  the  southward 
for  the  westerly  wind.* 

"Bass  strait  is  the  navigable  route  for  all  vessels  passing 
round  south  of  Australia,  and  is  consequently  much  fre- 
quented.t  King  island  divides  its  western  entrance  into 
two  channels,  that  north  of  the  island  being  far  the  safer  of 
the  two,  and  therefore  the  one  constantly  adopted. 

**  Bass  strait  should  be  approached  with  caution  by  ves- 
sels corning  from  the  westward,  if  not  certain  of  their  lati- 
tude, which  ought  to  be  correctly  ascertained  before  they 
reach  143°  E. ;  and  the  strait  ought  not  to  be  entered  in 
the  night,  unless  the  land  has  been  previously  seen  or  both 
latitude  and  longitude  be  known  by  observation.  The  par- 
allel of  39°  or  39°  15'  S.,  according  as  the  wind  may  incline, 
is  the  best  track  for  passing  between  King  island  and  cape 
Otway;  and  a  sight  of  either,  or,  preferably,  of  both,  will 
point  out  the  true  situation. 

u  Westward  of  the  north  end  of  King  island,  at  30  miles 
distance,  there  are  soundings  from  65  to  70  fathoms,  sand 

*  It  is  ^yorthy  of  remark  th at  Horsbnrgb,  wbile  advocating  tbe  route 
by  tbe  39th  parallel,  should  quote  one  bad  and  one  good  route. 

tit  is  frequented  by  vessels  which  have  chosen  3°  S.  for  their  east- 
ing— a  route  we  do  not  advise. 


168  FROM  EUROPE   TO   AUSTRALIA. 

which  will  indicate  the  proximity  of  this  strait  in  thick 
weather.  The  only  danger  to  be  apprehended  here  is  the 
Harbinger  reefs,  two  patches  situated  nearly  6  miles  to  the 
WNW.  of  the  north  end  of  King  island •  but  they  are  so  far 
separated  from  it,  and  from  each  other,  as  to  leave  passages 
between  them,  in  case  of  necessity,  where  the  shoalcst  water 
found  by  the  Cumberland  schooner  was  9  fathoms. 

"  Having  passed  the  north  end  of  King  island,  on  which 
is  a  fixed  light,  visible  24  miles,  a  course  should  be  made 
good  from  it,  E.  by  S.,  for  Sir  Roger  Curtis  island,  and  part 
of  this  distance  may  be  run  in  the  night  with  a  good  look- 
out,* the  soundings  in  this  track  to  the  eastern  part  of  the 
strait  are  regular,  from  35  to  48  fathoms,  fine  sand  and 
shells.  The  best  track  is  on  the  south  side  of  Sir  Roger 
Curtis  isles,  and  on  either  side  of  Kent  groups,  keeping 
near  the  southernmost  island  of  the  group.  If  the  south 
channel  is  chosen,  to  avoid  the  Endeavor  rock,  then  steer 
EXE.,  (E.  by  N.  true,)  if  nearly  before  the  wind,  or  on 
either  side  of  this  course  as  the  wind  may  incline,  taking 
care  not  to  approach  the  northern  Long-Beach,  formed  be- 
tween Wilson  promontory  and  cape  Howe,  which  becomes  a 
concave  lee-shore  with  a  SE.  gale.  This  makes  the  channel 
south  of  Kent  groups  preferable,  at  times,  to  those  north  of 
them  •  but  with  a  steady  NW.  wind  and  settled  weather, 
either  of  the  channels  south  of  Redondo  might  be  pursued 
occasionally.  Then  a  course  steered  well  to  the  eastward, 
to  give  a  berth  to  the  Long-Beach,  and  cape  Howe  may  be 
rounded  at  any  reasonable  distance. 

Anchoring-  " The  most  convenient  places  for  anchoring  in  the  strait 
with  easterly  winds  are:  under  the  NW.  end  of  King  island; 
on  the  east  side  of  New  Year  isles,  which  anchorage  is  now 
called  Franklin  road  •  Port  Phillip ;  Hunter  isles,  between 
Three-Hummock  and  Barren  (or  Hunter)  islands,  taking 
care  not  to  anchor  too  close  to  the  weather  shore,  lest  the 
wind  change  suddenly;  and  on  the  west  side  of  Wilson 
promontory,  in  a  case  of  necessity  only,  for  this  place  is  dan- 
gerous if  the  wind  change  suddenly  to  SW.,  as  a  deep  bay 
is  formed  between  the  promontory  and  cape  Liptrap.  There 
is  also  anchorage  in  the  channel  called  Murray  pass,  formed 
by  the  islands  of  Kent  group ;  and  there  is  one  anchorage 
in  East  cove,  on  the  eastern  side  of  the  pass,  and  another 
farther  to  the  northward,  in  West  cove,  (Erith  island,)  on 


FROM  EUROPE  TO  AUSTRALIA.  169 

its  western  side.  Strong  squalls  may  be  expected  off  the 
land  and  eddy  tides  near  the  shore." 

Naury's  Instructions. — "  Vessels  that  are  bound  to  Aus- 
tralia, after  crossing  the  line  in  30°  W.,  can  generally  reach 
30°  S.  between  30°  and  20°  W.  The  great-circle  distance 
thence  to  Melbourne  is,  if  it  could  be  followed,  about  6,700 
miles ;  but  it  crosses  the  barriers  of  .perpetual  ice,  which 
forbid  the  passage  through  the  antarctic  regions.  But  if 
a  vessel  do  not  go  south  of  55°,  she  cannot  accomplish  the 
distance  to  Melbourne  from  the  parallel  and  meridian  of  30° 
in  less  than  7,300. 

"  The  majority  of  vessels  bound  around  the  cape  of  Good 
Hope  cross  the  meridian  of  20°  W.  between  the  parallels  of 
30°  and  35°  S.  Here  they  generally  aim  to  make  a  course 
a  little  to  the  south  of  east.  But  the  great-circle  route  to 
Australia  would,  were  it  practicable,  require  them  to  pass 
the  parallel  of  70°  S.  before  crossing  this  meridian  of  20° 
W.  That  route  is  the  nearest  which,  being  practicable, 
deviates  the  least  from  the  great  circle.  From  the  moment 
that  vessels  leave  the  calm  belt  of  Capricorn,  between  20° 
and  30°  W.,  this  route  is  tangential  to  the  parallel  of  the 
highest  degree  of  latitude  that  they  intend  to  make. 

"Admitting  that  the  tropical  calm  belt  is  left  near  30°  S., 
the  distance  via  the  'composite'  routes — for  the  parallels  of 
45°,  50°,  and  55°  taken  as  *  vertices,'  and  from  the  meridians 
of  300  and  20°  W.— is  as  follows : 

"1st.  From  30° .S.  and  30°  W.  to  45°  S.  in  20°  E.;  thence 
east  to  120°  E. ;  and  thence  by  tangent  to  Melbourne,  is 
8,000  miles. 

"2d.  From  30°  S.  and  30°  W.,  to  50°  S.  in  30°  E. ;  thence 
to  100°  E. ;  and  thence  to  Melbourne,  7,700. 

"3d.  From  30°  S.  and  20°  W.,  by  tangent,  to  45°  S.  in  30° 
E.;  and  thence,  as  upon  the  parallel  of  45°  from  30°  W.,  to 
Melbourne,  7,600. 

"4tb.  From  30°  S.  and  20°  W.,  by  tangent,  to  50°  S.  in  40° 
E.;  and  thence  to  Melbourne,  as  before,  from  30°  W.,  7,300. 

"5th.  From  30°  S.  and  25°  W.,  by  tangent,  to  the  parallel 
of  55°  in  40°  E.;  and  thence  along  this  parallel  to  90°  E.; 
and  thence,  by  tangent,  to  Melbourne,  the  distance  is  7,300 
miles. 

"These  tangential  curves  are  arcs  of  great  circles,  and  the 
navigator  who  will  not  take  the  trouble  to  get  out  these 


170  FROM  EUROPE   TO  AUSTRALIA. 

curves,  so  that  he  may  follow  them  to  and  from  the  parallel, 
or  'vertex,'  upon  which  he  proposes  to  'run  down  his  longi- 
tude,' but  prefers  the  rhumb-line  course,  must  make  up  his 
mind  to  the  loss  to  be  incurred,  for  even  in  the  cases  above 
quoted,  he  will  lose  by  the  rhumb-line  course  from  a  few 
hours'  to  a  day's  sail,  according  to  circumstances. 

"At  any  rate,  when  he  conies  to  view  the  route  to  Aus- 
tralia as  here  described,  he  will  perceive  that  the  route  to 
the  cape  of  Good  Hope  turns  off  from  it  about  the  parallel 
of  30°  S.,  and  that  therefore  Australian-bound  vessels  need 
not  hug  the  trades  as  close  as  the  cape-bound  vessels  do. 
Here,  then,  as  you  clear  the  belt  of  the  SE.  trade-winds  there 
is  a  fork  in  the  road — the  vessel  bound  by  the  beaten  track 
to  the  cape  or  Calcutta  going  to  the  east ;  but  she  whose 
destination  is  Australia  should  stand  on  to  the  southward, 
not  thinking  of  hauling  up  to  the  eastward  until  she  clears 
the  calms  of  Capricorn  and  finds  herself  well  within  the 
region  of  the  trade-like  westerly  winds  of  the  southern 
hemisphere. 

"  She  may  then  begin  to  edge  away  and  haul  up  grad- 
ually to  the  eastward,  crossing  10°  W.  between  40°  and  50° 
S.,  according  to  the  season,  and  reaching  her  extreme  south- 
ern parallel  in  our  winter  mouths,  near  the  meridian  of  20° 
E.  Upon  this  parallel  (say  from  45°  to  52°  S.)  she  should  run 
along  her  'vertex'  till  she  cross  the  meridian  of  100°  or  120° 
E.,*  when  she  may  begin  gradually  to  edge  up  for  her  port, 
but  still  keeping  to  the  right  of  the  rhumb,  line  on  her  chart 
that  leads  to  it.  Hence,  it  will  be  perceived  that  Austral- 
ian-bound vessels  have  nothing  to  do  with  the  cape  of  Good 
Hope  j  nor  should  they  icish  to  go  within  six  hundred  or  eight 
hundred  miles  of  it. 

"The  best  crossing-place  of  25°  or  30°  S,,  that  the  SE. 
trades  will  generally  allow  for  the  Australian  route,  is  about 
30°  W.,  a  few  degrees  more  or  less.  The  distance  from  it 
to  Melbourne  is  about  6,500  miles,  the  arc  of  the  great  cir- 
cle crossing  the  prime  meridian  between  the  parallels  of  70° 
and  75°  S.,  the  meridian  of  55°  E.  between  the  parallels  of 
80°  and  82°  S.  Here  it  reaches  its  greatest  southern  decli- 
nation, and  begins  then  to  incline  northwardly.  Australian- 

*The  author  translates  these  meridians  as  90°  and  100°  E.,  (merid. 
Paris.)  Maury,  however,  gives  them  as  93°  and  118C  E.,  (merid.  Paris.) 
— Translator. 


FROM  EUROPE   TO   AUSTRALIA.  171 

bound  vessels  are  advised  after  crossing  the  equator  near 
the  meridian  of  30°  W.,  say  between  27°  and  32°  as  the  case 
may  be,  to  run  down  through  the  SE.  trades  with  topmast 
studding-sail  set,*  if  they  have  sea-room,  aiming  to  cross 
250  or  3Qo  g.  at  about  28°  or  30°  W.,  and  so  on ;  shaping 
their  course,  after  they  get  the  winds  steadily  from  the  west- 
ward, more  and  more  to  the  eastward  until  they  cross  the 
meridian  of  20°  E.  near  45°  S.,  and  afterward  reach  if  pos- 
sible 55°  S.  near  40°  E.  The  Nightingale  ran  as  far  south 
as  57°  S.,  and  made  the  quickest  time  of  all  the  passages 
we  possess.  Therefore,  there  will  be  a  great  advantage  in 
keeping  to  the  S.  of  E.,  as  much  as  the  ice,  etc.,  will  allow, 
without  attempting  to  return  north  until  the  meridians  of 
90°  or  92°  E.  are  reached.  The  best  plan  is  to  make  the 
extreme  southern  latitude  between  the  meridians  of  52°  and 
82°  E,,  afterward  bearing  away  more  and  more  to  the  north 
and  east  as  Van  Diemen's  land  is  ueared. 

"  Such  is  the  best  route  to  Australia,  the  highest  degree 
of  south  latitude  which  it  may  be  prudent  to  take  depending 
mainly  on  the  season  of  the  year,  the  ice,  the  winds,  the  state  of 
the  ship,  and  the  ivell-being  of  the  passengers  and  crew.  If  the 
winds  are  not  good  and  strong,  bear  south  to  look  for  them. 
In  our  summer,  one  will  not  have  to  go  so  far  south  to  look 
for  these  winds  as  he  will  in  our  winter.  The  shortest  pas- 
sages, therefore,  will  probably  be  made  in  the  southern  spring 
and  early  summer,  when  daylight,  the  winds,  the  state  of  the 
weather,  and  all,  except  ice,  are  most  favorable  for  reaching 
high  southern  latitudes. 

u  I  have  endeavored  to  impress  navigators  with  a  sense 
of  the  mistake  they  commit  in  considering  the  cape  of  Good 
Hope  as  on  the  way-side  of  their  best  route  to  Australia. 
It  is  not  only  a  long  way  out  of  the  best  and  most  direct 
route  for  them,  but  the  winds  also  to  the  north  of  the  40th 
parallel  of  south  latitude  are  much  less  favorable  for  Aus- 
tralia than  they  are  to  the  south  of  this  .parallel.  'Sailing 
Directions7  issued  by  the  British  Admiralty,  I  am  aware, 
recommend  the  cape  of  Good  Hope  route,  and  the  parallel  of 
39°  S.  as  the  best  upon  which  to  run  down  easting  to  Australia. 

"It  is  in  the  fall  and  winter  months  (not  in  summer,  as 

*Frorn  this  it  is  evident  that  Maury  does  not  advise  that  you  should 
always  cross— even  the  equator— very  far  to  the  westward,  as  some  au- 
thors have  accused  him  of  doing. 


172  FROM  EUROPE   TO  AUSTRALIA. 

the i  Sailing  Directions'  state)  when  the  sea  is  most  free  from 
icebergs,  for  every  one  knows  that  icebergs  are  often  seen 
in  the  North  Atlantic  in  June,  and  not  unfrequently  in  July. 
December  and  January*  are  the  worst  months  for  ice  along 
the  Australian  route.  By  March t  well-nigh  all  that  the 
summer  heat  could  set  adrift  has  been  borne  north  and 
melted ;  the  southern  winter  is  the  time  when  the  icebergs 
are  held  fast,  for  then  they  are  forming  for  the  heat  of  the 
next  spring  and  summer  to  break  out  and  set  adrift. 

"In  recommending  this  new  route,  and  a  route  which 
differs  so  widely  from  the  favorite  route  of  the  Admiralty, 
I  should  remark  that  I  do  it,  not  because  it  is  an  approach 
to  the  great  circle  route,  nor  because  it  has  anything  to  do 
with  the  composite  track,  but  because  the  winds  and  the  sea 
and  the  distance  are  all  such  as  to  make  this  route  the 
quickest.  I  say  the  sea,  because  I  suppose  there  is  no  more 
danger  from  icebergs,  if  a  proper  lookout  be  kept,  than 
there  is  on  the  voyage  between  New  York  and  Liverpool. 
I  do  not  even  see  them  mentioned  in  the  voyage  to  Austra- 
lia, except  by  three  ships,  namely:  the  Malay,  on  the  21st 
December,  1853,  in  lat.  48°  25'  S.  and  long.  35°  24'  E.;  the 
Oriental,  on  the  llth  December,  1853,  in  lat.  46°  25'  S.  and 
long.  1250  E.  ;  the  Aucldand,  on  the  25th  October,  1853,  in 
lat.  53°  12'  S.  and  long.  21°  23'  E. 

u  Furthermore,  Horsburgh  says  that  H.  B.  M.  Guardian 
fell  in  with  one,  in  lat.  44°  15'  S.  and  long.  44°  30'  E.,  on  the 
24th  December,  1789 ;  also  that  the  French  ship  Harmonic 
met  one  in  April,  at  lat.  35°  50'  S.  and  long.  18°  E.  In  sbort 
it  can  be  said  that  icebergs  are  very  rare  in  these  localities. 

"  There  seem  to  be  two  spots  in  the  Pacific  where  ice- 
bergs are  frequent :  one  near  the  meridian  of  the  cape  of 
Good  Hope 5  the  other  in  the  neighborhood  of  the  longitude 
of  Australia.  I  therefore  would  advise  navigators  not  to 
cross  the  prime  meridian  to  the  south  of  45°  S. ;  then  to 
run  for  their  extreme  southern  parallel — 55°  S.  for  example 
— near  the  meridian  40°  E. 

"In  further  proof  that  the  route  recommended  in  the 
'Sailing  Directions'  of  the  Admiralty  is  too  far  to  the 
north  I  have  prepared  tables,  and  so  far  as  the  facts  de- 

*From  November  to  April  according  to  Maury;    edition  of  1859. — 
Translator. 
tMay;  Maury  edition,  1859. — Translator. 


FROM  EUROPE  TO  AUSTRALIA.  173 

duced  from  these  tables  go,  they  justify  the  assertion  that 
for  every  degree  you  go  south  of  the  Admiralty  route,  you 
gain  three  days  on  the  average,  until  you  reach  45°  and 
4G°  S.,  for  the  averages  of  the  tables  are  not  below  these 
parallels.  I  believe  it  will  turn  out  that  the  best  streak 
of  wind,  on  the  long  run,  is  to  be  found  between  45°  and 
50°  S.  It  seems  to  be  almost  as  steady  between  these 
parallels  from  the  westward  as  it  is  anywhere  from  the  east 
between  the  trade- wind  parallels  of  15°  and  20°." 

Captain  Sallot  Desnoyer's  Instructions. — "  There  seeins  to 
be  a  choice  between  two  routes  in  making  this  passage: 
First,  the  Admiralty  route,  near  39°  or  40°  S. ;  second,  the 
route  near  45°  S.,  more  or  less  to  the  southward  of  that 
parallel,  according  to  the  season  and  the  winds.  During 
the  southern  winter,  when  the  nights  are  long  and  the 
weather  cold,  it  is  natural  for  one  to  hesitate  before  taking 
the  southern  passage,  notwithstanding  the  fact  that  ice- 
bergs are  less  numerous  than  they  are  in  summer.  At  this 
season  the  Admiralty  route  can  be  followed  on  the  parallel 
of  42°  S.  I  do  not  think  there  is  any  danger  in  running 
well  to  the  southward  in  summer,  for  if  icebergs  should 
chance  to  be  encountered,  the  long  days  will  be  of  much 
assistance  in  avoiding  them.  Of  course,  the  wind  and 
weather  will  at  all  times  be  taken  into  consideration  j  and 
if  settled  winds  are  not  found  on  the  parallel  chosen,  the 
best  thing  to  do  is  to  run  south,  remembering  that  the 
farther  south  vessels  go,  the  shorter  their  passage.'7 

The  observations  of  various  captains  on  the  choice  of  a 
parallel.* — We  will  first  quote  the  following  extracts  from 
volume  29  Annales  Hydrographiques,  relating  to  this  very 
disputed  question.  Lieutenant  Galeche,  of  the  French  navy, 
expresses  himself  in  these  terms  : 

"  Maury  advises  vessels  leaving  the  cape  of  Good  Hope 
to  run  for  the  meridian  of  32°  E.  near  45°  or  50°  S.  lati- 
tude, thus  approaching  the  great  circle — which  curves  into 
still  higher  latitudes — as  nearly  as  possible.  This  is  with- 
out doubt  the  most  direct  route,  being  300  or  400  miles 
shorter  than  the  Admiralty  route.  By  it  the  passage  is 
shortened  two  days.  But  Maury  himself  admits  that  the 
Toy  age  is  boisterous  and  stormy,  and  should  only  be  under- 
taken by  stout  ships.  He  speaks  of  the  ships  that  have 

*  The  extracts  in  §  105  will  also  be  interesting  in  this  connection. 


174  FROM  EUROPE   TO   AUSTRALIA. 

made  magnificent  passages  from  Europe  to  Australia  by 
descending  to  55°  S.  j  but  makes  no  mention  of  those 
which  have  been  lost,  or  have  sustained  extraordinary 
damage  to  their  masts  and  rigging.  Therefore  I  think  that 
a  man-of-war,  bound  to  her  station  in  China  or  Oceanicar 
and  wishing  to  arrive  there  in  ship-shape  condition,  should 
not  go  lower  than  45°  8.  in  summer,  and  40°  S.  in  winter. 
Bad  enough  weather  will  be  found  even  on  these  parallels, 
but  in  spite  of  it  a  good  passage  may  be  made.  Going  from 
Reunion  to  Bass  strait,  in  the  Marceau,  I  ran  down  my 
longitude  on  the  40th  parallel ;  and  from  67°  E.  on  36°  S. 
I  had  no  easterly  winds  (September  and  October)  until  I 
reached  Bass  strait." 

Captain  Yeillet,  of  the  Hoogly,  says :  "  I  scudded  along 
the  parallel  of  50°  S.  for  two  weeks,  with  a  violent  west 
wind  after  me  all  the  time ;  but  I  would  not  follow  this 
route  in  a  weak  vessel." 

Captain  Fernaud,  of  the  Eeunion,  who  made  voyages  to 
the  East  Indies  for  15  years,  makes  the  following  remarks : 

"  The  most  convenient  place  to  cross  the  equator,  after 
leaving  Europe,  is  between  23°  and  28°  W.  After  passing 
the  Tristan  islands,  head  for  the  parallel  of  42°  or  45°  S., 
upon  which  run  down  the  longitude.  Here  the  sea  will  be 
found  very  much  smoother  and  the  weather  better  than  on 
the  parallels  of  36°  and  40°  S.  I  have  always  experienced 
fine  weather,  variable  wind,  sometimes  even  exceedingly 
variable,  but  no  gales ;  while  between  36°  and  40°  the  sea 
is  very  rough,  the  gales  very  violent,  and  the  danger  of 
damage  to  the  ship  great.  After  the  heavy  squalls  there 
are  generally  two  or  three  days  of  calm,  when  the  ship  will 
not  make  more  than  two  or  three  miles  per  hour  and  labors 
greatly.  The  heavy  squalls  do  not  seem  to  be  found  lower 
than  40°  S. ;  the  wind  begins  from  NE.,  jumps  violently 
around  to  NW.,  and  shifts  gradually  to  W.,  then  to  SW., 
finally  to  S.,  where  it  dies  away." 

Captain  Prouhet  makes  the  following  remarks,  (Ann. 
Hydr.,  vol.  31 :) 

"  The  bad  weather  we  experienced  in  our  passages  toward 
Van  Diemen's  land  gave  us  an  entirely  different  idea  of  the 
'brave  west  winds7  promised  by  Maury.  They  undoubt- 
edly blow,  in  the  zone  of  variable  winds,  especially  in  high 
latitudes  j  but  they  are  very  variable,  and  suddenly  shift,, 


FROM  EUROl'E  TO   AUSTRALIA. 

at  times,  to  all  points  of  the  compass.  One  moment  we 
would  be  sailing  along  with  a  moderate  breeze,  the  next  a 
squall  would  be  upon  us,  strong  enough  to  carry  every  mast 
by  the  board.  We  were  continually  shifting  or  taking  in 
sail.  The  sea  was  also  entirely  different  from  what  Maury 
would  lead  one  to  expect.  Instead  of  the  long  swell  that 
was  to  set  us  a  little  ahead  of  our  dead-reckoning  every 
day,  we  very  often  experienced  a  heavy  cross  and  broken 
sea,  the  waves  breaking  in  all  directions,  and  making  the 
vessel  labor  violently.  Nevertheless  the  route  to  the  east — 
advocated  by  this  superior  American  officer — is  a  good  one; 
bat  navigators  must  not  fall  into  the  illusion  that  they  are 
going  to  have  good  weather ;  for  I  found  that  all  the 
descriptions  fell  short  of  the  reality.  The  speed  by  this 
route  is  more  rapid,  and  as  the  crew  cannot  be  drilled  they 
will  not  object  to  the  rough  weather." 

The  following  is  an  extract  from  the  report  of  Captain 
Binet,  of  the  Isis,  on  the  passage  from  Reunion  to  Sydney, 
(vide  Ann.  Hydr.,  vol.  28  :) 

"  Left  Saint  Denis  on  the  20th  February ;  lost  the  SE. 
trades  on  the  27th,  lat.  38°  S.,  long.  54°  E.$  and  without 
experiencing  a  moment's  calm,  found  a  light  breeze  from 
NE.,  which  soon  freshened  and  shifted  to  NW. 

"From  that  time  till  the  20th  March,  when  we  sighted  cape 
Otway,  (lat.  42°  S.,)  we  made  200  miles  per  day,  with  fresh 
winds  from  NNW.  to  SS  W.  The  only  change  in  the  weather 
was  that  the  wind  lessened  in  intensity,  now  and  then,  for 
a  few  moments.  We  experienced  a  few  calms  and  light 
airs  near  laud  in  Bass  strait." 

We  would  call  special  attention  to  the  following  quota- 
tion from  the  report  of  Captain  Jouan,  relating  to  the  pas- 
sage of  the  sailing-transport  Bonite,  from  the  cape  of  Good 
Hope  to  Sydney,  (Ann.  Hydr.,  vol.  27 :) 

lt  The  routes  to  Australia,  as  prescribed  by  Maury  and  the 
British  Admiralty,  are  essentially  different.  The  Admiralty 
directs  that  the  39th  parallel  is  to  be  followed  in  the  Indian 
ocean  as  far  as  the  meridian  of  107°  or  112°  E.,  whether 
bound  through  Bass  strait,  or  to  the  south  of  Tasmania. 
Maury,  on  the  other  hand,  advises  a  ship  to  gain  as  high  a 
latitude  as  possible.  The  Admiralty  route,  if  not  very  rapid 
offered  more  inducements  for  a  transport  like  the  Bonite,  as 
her  people  were  ill  clothed,  etc.  We  left  the  cape  on  the  2d 


176  FROM  EUROPE   TO  AUSTRALIA. 

May,  and  on  the  24th  were  in  sight  of  St.  Paul,  and  south 
of  the  island.  The  length  of  the  nights,  and  the  want  of  a 
detailed  chart  of  Bass  strait,  made  me  decide  to  go  to  the 
southward  of  Tasmania. 

"  I  found  better  and  more  settled  weather  on  the  parallel  of 
46°  8.  than  nearer  the  equator.  Between  the  cape  and  the 
S.  of  Tasmania  the  currents  were  generally  to  the  east, 
sometimes  to  the  north.  Along  the  east  coast  of  Australia, 
from  cape  Howe  to  Port  Jackson,  the  winds,  during  the  firs  t 
two  weeks  of  June,  were  gentle,  and  from  WNW.  to  WSW., 
freshening  at  night ;  the  sky  was  clear,  and  the  stars  very 
brilliant.  The  westerly  squalls,  common  here  at  this  season, 
are  apt  to  set  vessels  from  the  land.  We  also  encountered 
several  thunder-storms,  during  which  the  wind  shifted. 

"  The  barometer  on  this  coast  rises  with  the  S.  wind,  and 
falls  with  the  N.  Near  the  land,  and  when  the  wind  is  from 
WNW.,  the  glass  varies  from  29in.76  to  29in.92,  as  the  wind 
hauls  to  N.  or  S.  The  rain-storms  seem  to  have  no  appre- 
ciable influence  on  the  barometer.  On  the  evening  of  the 
25th  June  we  were  in  sight  of  Port  Jackson  light. 

"The  next  morning  there  was  a  dead  calm,  and  we  were 
towed  to  our  anchorage  at  Farm  cove  ;  at  noon  the  ther- 
mometer stood  at  59°  or  60°.  From  cape  Howe  to  Sydney 
the  currents  set  me  to  the  northward,  when  I  was  near 
land ;  and  to  the  southward,  when  I  was  about  CO  miles  off 
the  coast. 

"  While  at  Sydney  I  met  several  captains  who  were  in 
the  habit  of  making  the  voyage  from  London  to  New  South 
Wales.  All  of  them  informed  me  that  in  winter  nothing  was 
to  be  gained  by  going  through  Bassjs  strait.  They  differed  as 
to  the  best  route  through  the  Indian  ocean ;  some  recom- 
mending the  route  along  the  39th  parallel  j  others  maintain- 
ing that  ships  should  go  higher,  and  on  the  parallels  of  the 
Prince  Edward  islands,  Kerguelen  land,  and  the  Macdonald 
group,  (520  40'  S.) 

"  In  these  localities  the  wind  is  steadier,  but  the  weather 
stormy.  Icebergs  make  this  route  dangerous  in  summer. 
Good  passages  have  been  made  by  both  routes.  All  the  cap- 
tains said  that  vessels  should  never  keep  between  40°  and 
42°  S.,  as  the  weather  is  never  settled,  and  calms  and  head- 
winds are  common  in  that  locality." 


FROM   EUROPE   TO   NEW  CALEDONIA.  177 

2(1.  The  Suez  route. — The  reader  should  first  refer  to  the 
observations  on  this  route,  which  he  will  find  in  the  "  Navi- 
gation of  the  South  Atlantic  ocean." 

Reference  should  also  be  had  to  §  148  of  this  volume. 

From  April  to  October  a  sailing-vessel  or  an  auxiliary  0^JJ,™  April  to 
steamer  can,  if  need  be,  sail  down  the  Red  sea  without  great 
difficulty,  for,  at  this  season,  the  winds  prevail  from  the 
north.  Inversely  the  passage  from  Aden  to  Suez  will  be 
impracticable  during  these  mouths,  and  rendered  too  long 
for  commercial  purposes.  During  the  rest  of  the  year  the 
N.  winds  prevail  only  in  the  northern  two-thirds  of  the  Red 
sea.  In  the  southern  third  they  blow  from  S.  and  SSE., 
often  quite  stiffly. 

Therefore,  from  October  to  April  it  is  almost  impossible  tc)1^0)JJ1  October 
for  a  sailing  ship  to  go  either  up  or  down  the  Red  sea. 

Sailing-vessels  wishing  to  pass  through  Torres  strait 
should  aim  to  arrive  at  the  Malay  peninsula  between  De- 
cember and  February,  so  as  to  take  advantage  of  the  NW. 
monsoon. 

It  is  even  then  extremely  difficult  for  a  sailing-ship,  or 
for  an  auxiliary  steamer  wishing  to  economize  coal,  to  go 
through  both  the  Suez  canal  and  Torres  strait.  The  only 
possible  way  of  doing  this  is  to  descend  the  Red  sea  during 
the  first  of  October,  so  as  to  arrive  at  the  sea  of  Arafura  in 
November  or  the  beginning  of  December.  In  this  manner 
the  strong  SE.  winds  of  the  R3d  sea  will  be  avoided,  as 
these  do  not  set  in  until  November.  In  the  sea  of  Arafura 
the  N W.  monsoon  will  be  found ;  but  it  should  be  stated 
that  this  is  the  worst  season  in  the  Indian  ocean,  especially 
to  northward  of  the  line,  for  the  change  in  the  monsoons 
takes  place  at  this  time. 

In  short,  sailing-vessels,  or  auxiliary  steamers  wishing  to 
economize  coal,  should  not  go  through  Torres  strait. 

The  best  season  to  go  down  the  Red  sea  is  between  April 
and  October,  for  then  the  SVV.  monsoon  will  be  found  N.  of 
the  equator;  the  easting  can  then  be  run  down,  and  the  line 
crossed  in  a  good  position  to  haul  up  on  the  port  tack  in 
the  SE.  trades.  Bear  away  to  the  southward  and  eastward 
near  30°  S.,  and  pass  south  of  Australia. 

§  105.  ROUTE  FROM  EUROPE  TO  NEW  CALEDONIA. — 
Navigators  intending  to  make  this  passage  should  refer  to 
the  instructions  given  in  §  104,  as  the  route  discussed  in 
12  N 


178  FROM  EUROPE   TO  NEW    CALEDONIA. 

that  paragraph  is  nearly  the  same  as  the  one  under  discus 
sion. 

We  have  already  stated  that  sailing-ships  should  pass  to 
the  southward  of  Tasmania.  We  will  now  point  out  the 
best  crossings  thence  to  Noumea : 

As  will  be  seen,  the  general  rule  for  the  last  part  of  this 
voyage  is,  not  to  edge  away  too  quickly  to  north,  and  to 
pass,  or  at  least  reach,  the  meridian  of  New  Caledonia  before 
clearing  the  parallel  of  35°  S.  Auxiliary  steamers  can 
naturally  make  a  more  direct  route. 

The  following  crossings  are  to  be  preferred  between  Tas- 
mania and  Noumea: 

In  January,  cross  40°  S.  between  165°  and  106°  E. ;  35° 
S.  and  300  g.  between  168°  and  169°  E. 

In  February,  cross  43°  S.  at  155°  E. ;  40°  S.  at  163°  E. ; 
35°  S.  and  30°  S.  at  168°  E. 

In  March,  40°  S.  at  165°  E.  j  35°  S.  and  30°  S.  between  170° 
and  171°  E. 

In  April,  40°  S.  between  156°  and  158°  E. ;  30°  S.  be- 
tween 163°  and  165°  E.,  and  thence  directly  for  Noumea. 

In  May,  40°  S.  between  158°  and  159°  E. ;  35°  S.  at  163° 
E.,  and  30°  S.  at  166°  E. 

In  June,  40°  S.  between  157°  and  158°  E.  j  35°  S.  at  165°, 
and  30°  S.  at  167°  E. 

In  July,  35°  S.  between  164°  and  166°  E. ;  and  30°  S. 
between  167°  and  168°  E. 

In  August,  40°  S.  between  154°  and  156°  E.;  35°  S. 
between  161°  and  162°  E. ;  and  30°  S.  between  165°  and 
166°  E. 

In  September,  35°  S.  between  165°  and  166°  E. ;  and  30° 
S.  between  167°  and  168°  E. 

In  October,  40°  S.  at  160°  E. ;  35°  S.  between  165°  and 
166°  E. ;  and  30°  S.  between  167°  and  168°  E. 

In  November,  40°  S.  between  160°  and  162°  E. ;  35°  S. 
between  166°  and  168°  E. ;  and  thence  for  Noumea. 

In  December,  40°  S.  between  162°  and  163°  E. ;  35°  S.  at 
167°  E. ;  and  thence  steer  for  Noumea. 

For  instructions  relating  to  the  last  part  of  the  voyage, 
and  to  the  landfall,  consult  §  111.  We  will  now  give  a  few 
extracts  relating  to  this  passage,  and  we  would  especially 
draw  the  reader's  attention  to  the  voyages  of  the  Sibylle 
and  Garonne. 


FROM  EUROPE   TO  NEW  CALEDONIA.  179 

Passage  of  the  Sibylle,  Captain  Brossalet,  (Ann.Rydr.,  1871.) 
— "  I  kept  a  clean  full  on  the  port  tack  while  running  through 
the  SE.  trades  of  the  Atlantic.  Between  8°  and  17°  S.  the 
trade- winds  were  quite  squally. 

"At  26°  S.  they  commenced  to  haul  to  the  east,  and  even 
NE. ;  and  I  was  enabled  to  come  up  a  little  to  the  eastward? 
and  crossed  2°  E.  at  41°  S.  Arrived  at  this  meridian  on 
the  19th  October.  Experienced  variable  winds  from  EXE. 
to  NNE.,  which,  at  times,  compelled  me  to  take  two  reefs 
in  the  top-sails.  These  winds  were,  for  three  days,  inter- 
rupted by  light  airs  from  KNW.  to  W.  and  SSW.  At  41° 
S.  and  2o  E.  I  bore  for  the  45th  parallel  at  20°  E. 

"  I  expected  to  run  down  my  longitude  to  Tasmania  on  this 
parallel,  but  just  before  I  reached  Marion  and  Crozet  islands 
the  wind — which  had  been  from  N.  for  several  days — hauled 
to  E. ;  so  that  instead  of  giving  the  islands  a  wide  berth  I 
had  to  run  to  leeward  of  them.  I  therefore  had  to  run 
down  my  longitude  on  47°  and  48°  S.,  and  arrived  at  150° 
E.  on  the  19th  November.  The  wind,  during  this  run,  was 
continually  varying  from  XNE.  to  NW.  and  W.  and  even 
to  S.,  but  the  prevalent  direction  was  N. 

"It  seemed  to  have  a  rotary  motion,  and  after  blowing 
strongly  from  N.,  it  hauled  to  W.,  dying  away  a  few  hours 
afterward,  while  shifting  to  SW. ;  after  an  interval  of  calms 
and  light  airs  it  would  again  come  out  from  NNE. 

"  I  might  have  found  the  winds  more  to  the  westward  in 
higher  latitudes,  but  I  doubt  if  I  would  have  made  a  quicker 
passage,  nor  would  the  health  of  the  crew  have  been  as  good. 
If  I  had  intended  to  take  a  south  route,  I  should  have  had 
to  make  up  my  mind  early  in  the  voyage  to  double  the 
Macdonald  islands  (lat.  53°)  to  the  southward.  As  the  wind 
in  this  locality  is  squally,  and  often  hauls  to  SW.,  and  then 
to  SE.,  I  should  have  probably  lost  a  great  deal  of  time. 
Besides,  Kerguelen  land— situated  in  nearly  the  same  me- 
ridian as  the  Macdonald  islands,  and  extending  from  50° 
50'  to  52°  20'  E.— makes  the  situation  less  desirable. 

"  I  did  not  deem  it  prudent  to  run  between  these  two 
groups,  as  the  winds  are  variable  and  the  chances  of  ob- 
taining observations  rare. 

"  I  incline  to  the  opinion  that  the  northerly  route  is  the 


180  FKOM  EUROPE   TO  NEW  CALEDONIA. 

better  one.  During  the  two  days  prior  to  my  reaching  this 
position  the  winds  were  inclined  to  haul  to  NNE.  and  NE.? 
and  I  was  uncertain  whether  I  could  double  the  islands  or 
not,  but  I  was  enabled  to  do  so  without  making  a  tack,  thus 
economizing  time  and  avoiding  much  anxiety.  Even  if 
you  have  to  go  about,  there  will  be  plenty  of  sea-room. 

"  The  current  averaged  1  knot  per  hour  for  25  days,  and 
set  the  ship  to  the  eastward.  This  current  seems  to  follow 
the  variations  of  the  wind,  inclining  to  the  N.  or  S.,  as  the 
breeze  hauls  in  either  of  those  directions.  During  the  25 
days  the  frigate  made  5,539  miles,  and,  though  the  wind 
was  not  very  fresh  nor  always  fair,  we  averaged  221.5 
miles  per  day.  We  nearly  always  carried  whole  top-sails ; 
in  the  worst  weather  we  furled  the  upper  foretop-sail,  and 
put  two  reefs  in  the  main-sail.  Once  I  was  nearly  lying- 
to  under  the  two  lower  top-sails;  but,  even  then,  made  over 
5  knots  per  hour ;  the  breeze  grew  light  at  the  end  of  a  few 
hours,  and,  the  sea  not  having  had  time  to  rise.  I  again  made 
sail. 

"I  encountered,  at  108°  E.,  a  single  iceberg,  about  400 
feet  high  and  1,300  feet  long;  its  shape  very  irregular. 
When  I  sighted  it  the  weather  was  fine,  clear  in  the  zenith, 
and  slightly  foggy  in  the  horizon.  It  was  distant  about  4 
miles  when  I  made  it  out,  and  I  lost  sight  of  it  when  it  was 
a  little  over  4£  miles  off'.  The  thermometer  showed  no 
signs  of  its  proximity,  even  when  it  was  within  1£  miles  of 
us.  The  southern  aurora  was  also  very  magnificent  one 
night  while  we  were  in  these  latitudes. 

"  Thinking  that  I  would  have  better  weather,  I  passed 
midway  between  Australia  and  New  Zealand,  the  result 
justifying  my  anticipations.  I  ran  from  48°  S.  to  Norfolk 
island  in  less  than  seven  days ;  and,  taking  my  departure 
from  that  island,  I  anchored  in  Noumea  on  the  28th  Novem- 
ber ;  94  days  from  Toulon  and  76  from  St.  Vincent." 

Passage  of  the  transport  Garonne,  (auxiliary  steamer,}  Cap- 
tain Rallier.—"  Arrived  at  Dakar,  Senegambia,  on  the  27th 
August,  1872,  and  left  that  port  on  the  night  of  the  2d  and 
3d  September.  Crossed  the  line  between  16°  and  17°  W. ; 
then,  contrary  to  the  usual  custom— the  Garonne  making 
very  good  way  close-hauled — T  hugged  the  trades,  and 
passed  450  miles  to  windward  of  Trinity  island.  I  reached 


FROM  EUROPE  TO  NEW  CALEDONIA.  181 

Tristan  da  Concha  19  days  after  my  departure,  and  on  the 
very  day  when  I  should  have  anchored  at  St.  Catherine  had 
I  not  kept  close-hauled.  By  steering  this  course  I  had, 
therefore,  gained  1,800  miles  on  my  route,  and  was  from  15 
to  20  days  ahead  of  the  time  I  would  have  made  had  I 
touched  on  the  South  American  coast. 

"  In  the  southern  part  of  the  equatorial  and  Capricorn 
calm  belts  I  met  stubborn  S.  winds,  which  sensibly  diminished 
our  supply  of  coal  5  contrary  to  my  original  intention,  I  was 
therefore  obliged  to  make  the  greater  part  of  the  passage 
under  sail,  using  the  engine  only  in  cases  of  the  most  ur- 
gent necessity. 

"  I  ran  well  south  from  Tristan  da  Concha,  crossing  45° 
S.  at  2°  E.,  and  50°  about  the  meridian  of  the  cape  of  Good 
Hope ;  here  I  was  delayed  for  6  days  by  calms  and  light 
baffling  airs ;  the  fog  was  also  thick  and  '  glacial,'  which  I 
attributed  to  the  meeting  of  antarctic  and  Indian  ocean 
currents. 

"  Thence  I  ran  in  an  oblique  course  to  the  Macdouald 
isles,  which  I  intended  to  make  the  vertex  of  our  route.  I 
wished  to  sight  these  islands,  as  (according  to  my  judgment) 
they  are  located  near  the  best  route  between  the  two  capes, 
and  should  be  used  by  vessels  to  rectify  their  positions.  It 
also  seemed  to  me  best  to  give  Kerguelen  laud  a  wide  berth, 
as  its  exact  position  is  doubtful  and  the  winds  in  that  local- 
ity are  unfavorable.  Unfortunately,  I  passed  the  Macdon- 
ald  isles  in  the  night,  and  could  not  obtain  all  the  informa- 
tion I  had  wished.  I  was  able,  however,  to  fix  the  exact 
position  of  the  islets  off  the  western  part  of  the  group,  as 
our  chronometers  proved  to  be  only  two  minutes  out  when 
we  reached  Noumea.  The  principal  peak  of  the  island 
stands  out  in  bold  relief;  we  made  it  at  a  distance  of  45 
miles  at  sunset,  and  judged  its  elevation  to  be  about  7,000  feet. 

"After  clearing  the  Macdonald  group  I  found  a  fresh 
wind  from  K  to  NNE.,  which  drove  me  down  to  54°  S. ; 
this  was  the  only  violent  wind  we  experienced  south  of  the 
50th  parallel,  and  it  lasted  only  a  short  time.  During  the 
passage  of  21  days  in  these  latitudes  the  royals  were  only 
furled  10  times,  and  76  hours  in  all.  The  sea  was  remark- 
ably smooth ;  the  wind  moderate,  and  the  only  heavy  swell 
from  NW.  The  wind  which  caused  this  swell  did  not  reach 
us.  It  probably  came  from  a  locality  GOO  miles  distant,  as 


182  FEOM:  EUROPE  TO  KEW  CALEDOMI. 

we  did  not  strike  the  corresponding  wind  until  we  reached 
45o  S. 

"The  temperature  did  not  fall  below  25° ;  this  was  not 
very  cold,  but  was  very  much  felt  by  the  crew,  as  the 
weather  changed  so  rapidly  that  they  had  not  time  to  become 
acclimated.  The  nights  were  especially  severe,  and  I  had 
to  serve  out  an  extra  allowance  of  grog.  Still,  few  were 
taken  sick,  the  air  being  dry  and  healthy. 

"The  danger  from  icebergs  can  hardly  be  exaggerated, 
especially  during  the  foggy  nights  and  the  long  snow-squalls- 
We  met  our  first  one  at  51°  47'  S.  and  35°  08'  E. ;  it  was  270 
feet  high,  and  made  such  an  impression  on  the  crew  that  I 
knew  I  could  count  on  a  *  good  lookout ; '  we  also  passed 
through  a  group  of  them  on  the  16th,  17th,  and  18th  Octo- 
ber, between  the  parallels  of  52°  23'  and  52°  06'  S.  and  the 
meridians  of  92°  and  104°  E.  At  noon  on  the  18th,  lat.  52° 
06',  long.  105°  17',  we  thought  we  saw  land  to  the  south.  I  ran 
for  it,  but  at  the  end  of  an  hour  saw  nothing  to  fully  confirm 
my  belief.  These  latitudes  are  so  little  frequented  that  land 
may  possibly  be  there;  but  as  signs  of  the  scurvy  were  begin- 
ning to  make  their  appearance  among  the  crew,  I  could  not 
delay  any  longer.  If  this  land  exists  its  position  is  52°  30' 
S.,  and  105°  20'  E. 

"  I  bore  away  gradually  to  the  north  on  the  14th  of  Octo- 
ber, and  recrossed  50°  S.  on  the  20th,  after  making  100  de- 
grees in  longitude  to  the  southward  of  this  parallel,  or  an 
average  of  5  degrees  per  day. 

"To  the  north  of  50°  S.  the  weather  completely  changed, 
rain  took  the  place  of  snow,  the  sea  became  heavy,  and  the 
wind  violent,  especially  in  the  squalls,  when  only  low  sail 
could  be  carried.  The  wind  was  usually  fair,  though  very 
variable,  obliging  us  to  be  continually  bracing  and  hauling. 
In  short,  this  zone  was  worse  than  the  more  southern  one, 
with  the  one  exception  that  the  weather  was  warmer.  This 
higher  temperature  of  the  atmosphere  acted  favorably  on 
our  passengers,  though  our  efforts  to  make  a  quick  passage 
had  to  be  renewed  to  avoid  the  tendency  to  scurvy  caused 
by  the  dampness. 

"  We  doubled  South  cape,  Tasmania,  on  the  26th  October, 
26  days  from  the  meridian  of  the  cape  of  Good  Hope,  and 
an  average  of  200  miles  per  day. 

"  East  of  Tasmania  I  found  one  day's  calm,  and  two  of 


FROM  EUROPE  TO   NEW   CALEDONIA.  183 

head  winds.  The  breeze  then  sprung  up  from  the  east,  and 
we  arrived  at  Noumea  on  the  4th  November,  63  days  from 
Dakar,  with  an  average  speed  of  7.8  knots." 

The  opinions  given  in  the  following  quotations  differ  ma- 
terially from  the  preceding : 

Passage  from  Europe  to  New  Caledonia  by  the  sailing-frig- 
ate Aleeste,  Captain  Brosset,  (Ann.  Hydr.,  1871.) — "  I  ran  out 
of  the  SE.  Atlantic  trades  at  20°  S.  and  entered  the  region 
of  the  i  variables'  without  meeting  any  calms.  I  headed  to 
double  the  cape  of  Good  Hope  at  38°  S.';  thence,  bearing 
to  the  S.,  I  made  for  about  41°  S. 

"  Made  my  easting  between  40°  and  42°  S.  At  the  102nd 
meridian  I  again  ran  to  the  southward  so  as  to  double  Tas- 
mania at  46°  30'  S. ;  this  mean  route,  between  that  of  the 
British  Admiralty  and  the  one  indefinitely  laid  down  by 
Maury,  appeared  to  me  the  best  for  the  winter  season.  On 
this  long  passage  I  found  very  fresh  and  settled  winds,  and 
no  too  violent  squalls ;  nor  was  the  temperature  very  low 
even  in  the  heart  of  this  bad  season. 

"  In  this  passage  the  various  meteorological  observations 
agreed  exactly  with  those  taken  on  my  preceding  voyage . 

"  The  rotation  of  the  wind  is  invariably  the  same ;  it  comes 
out  from  NE.,  shifts  to  N.  and  NW.,  fresh  and  squally ;  then 
veers  suddenly  to  SW.  with  clearing  weather.  The  wind 
then  oscillates  between  SW.  and  N.  for  a  longer  or  shorter 
period,  according  to  the  latitude;  it  then  hauls  to  S.,  dying 
away  at  SE.,  and  comes  out  once  more  from  NE.,  after  a 
few  hours'  calm.  The  farther  south  you  go  the  longer  it 
takes  the  wind  to  complete  this  entire  revolution ;  in  other 
words,  the  wind  is  steadier  between  K,  W.,  and  S.  in  high 
latitudes;  from  which  Maury's  instructions  'to  run  well  to 
the  south  when  Australian  bound.' 

u  These  rotations  of  the  wind  occurred  very  frequently 
when  the  Alceste  was  N.  of  38°  S.,  but  S.  of  that  parallel 
the  wind  never  got  to  the  E.  of  S." 

Passage  of  the  Alceste  from  Reunion  to  Noumea. — "As  I 
had  to  make  this  passage  in  the  middle  of  winter  I  did  not 
think  I  was  justified  in  taking  Maury's  route,  especially  as 
the  ship  was  crowded  with  passengers  and  prisoners  in  con- 
finement. On  the  other  hand,  as  the  route  of  the  British 
Admiralty  seemed  a  little  too  far  north,  I  took,  with  all  due 
deference  to  Maury's  rules,  an  intermediate  route  ;  and  left 


184  FROM  EUROPE  TO  NEW  CALEDONIA. 

Reunion,  with  the  intention  of  running  down  my  longitude 
between  the  parallels  of  41°  and  42°  S. 

"  I  left  Keunion  on  the  16th  July.  I  ran  out  of  the  trades 
at  27°  S.  and  53°  E.,  and  the  variable  winds  which  then 
sprang  up  allowed  me  to  run  on  the  arc  of  a  great  circle 
passing  90  miles  S.  of  Van  Diemen's  land.  I  then  reached 
about  410  30'  S.  and  70  E.  I  then  headed  E.  until  I  crossed 
110  E.  Thence,  bearing  to  the  south,  I  doubled  Van  Die- 
men's  land  (long.  145°  E.)  at  46°  S. 

"During  the  whole  length  of  this  'composite'  route 
the  wind  was  nearly  always  from  N.  to  SW. ;  shifting  by 
the  W.  point  of  the  compass,  it  generally  blew  very  strong, 
causing  us  sometimes  to  scud  under  the  fore-sail.  Maury's 
charts  show  conclusively  the  prevalence  of  the  west  winds 
in  these  latitudes. 

"I  think  I  can  deduce  from  my  personal  observations, 
that  the  farther  one  goes  to  the  south,  the  longer  it  takes 
the  wind  to  make  a  complete  revolution  of  the  compass. 

"Thus  I  experienced,  in  the Alceste, between  the  parallels 
of  42°  and  46°  S.,  a  wind  that  blew  for  10  days  from  SW. 
to  N.  (shifting  by  W.)  before  it  went  completely  around  the 
compass ;  while  in  lower  latitudes  (between  33°  and  40°) 
the  time  required  for  its  complete  revolution  was  never 
more  than  4  or  5  days.  Still  farther  tp  the  northward,  be- 
tween 30°  and  33°,  it  is  not  a  rare  thing  to  see  the  complete 
rotation  peformed  in  24  or  36  hours.  Finally,  in  the  vicini- 
ty of  the  trades,  the  wind  runs  around  the  compass  even  in 
half  a  day ;  whence  the  calms  and  baffling  airs  near  the 
tropic  of  Capricorn. 

"From  all  the  data  we  have  on  the  subject,  we  can  con- 
clude that  there  is  probably  some  parallel,  still  undeter- 
mined, where  the  wind  never  blows  from  the  eastern  semi- 
circle of  the  compass." 

Passage  of  the  Saint-Michel,  Fradin.  master,  (vide  Ann. 
Hy  dr.,  vol.23.) — "We  doubled  Pernambuco  during  the  night 
of  the  8th  of  August,  and  experienced  fine  weather  and 
light  winds  until  the  15th.  We  were  then  at  33°  33'  S.  and 
29°  15'  W.;  steered  south  for  the  parallels  of  43°  and  45° 
S.,  on  which  we  intended  to  make  our  longitude.  On  the 
5th  September  we  were  in  lat,  43°  18'  S.,  long.  9°  40'  E. 
Thence  to  cape  Otway  experienced  moderate  winds  from 


FROM  EUROPE  TO  KEW   CALEDONIA.  185- 

NW.  to  SW.,  aud  quite  favorable  currents.  In  niy  opinion, 
the  passage  should  be  made  between  the  parallels  of  48°  and 
50°  S.,  for  here  the  wind  is  more  settled,  the  current  stronger, 
and  the  sea  smoother.  After  running  to  the  east  between 
43°  and  45°  S.,  we  arrived  at  the  boundary  of  changeable 
winds ;  every  fourth  or  fifth  day  we  had  a  few  hours  of 
calm;  then  the  south  winds,  shifting  to  SE.,  became 
squally;  they  afterward  hauled  to  the  E.,  NE.,  N.,  and 
from  NW.  to  SW.,  from  which  point  they  blew  for  a  long 
time.  These  sudden  changes  caused  a  heavy  sea,  which 
made  the  ship  labor  greatly,  and  deadened  her  headway. 
At  daylight  on  the  12th  October,  we  were  out  of  Bass 
strait.  From  the  12th  to  the  16th  October  we  had  fine 
weather  with  light  winds  from  NE.  to  NNE. ;  the  17th, 
wind  from  SSW.  to  S.  j  making  good  headway ;  on  the 
forenoon  of  the  19th  we  passed  close  to  the  E.  of  Lord  Howe 
islands,  and  about  9  miles  from  the  Ball  pyramid.  Weather 
fair  and  wind  from  S.  to  SE.  On  the  evening  of  the  22nd 
we  were  in  sight  of  l  mount  d'Or.'  We  anchored  at  Nou- 
mea on  the  23rd." 

We  will  finish  with  an  extract  from  the  observations  of 
Captain  Rion-Kerangal,  of  the  Isis,  on  the  passage  from 
Eeunion  to  New  Caledonia  : 

"  The  westerly  winds  never  failed  us  in  high  latitudes  ; 
they  were  as  settled  as  the  SE.  trades  of  the  Atlantic,  and 
strong  enough  to  enable  a  smart  sailer  to  make  240  miles 
per  day.  These  winds  usually  prevail  from  35°  to  55°  S. 

"  From  35°  to  40°  S.  the  NW.  wind  is  dominant;  from  43° 
to  55°  the  wind  from  W.  and  SW.  prevails. 

"  On  the  Admiralty  route  the  winds  are  more  moder- 
ate and  variable  than  they  are  farther  south ;  this  pas- 
sage is  also  damp  and  rainy ;  and  the  scurvy  is  liable  to 
break  out  in  these  latitudes.  On  the  45th  parallel  we  find, 
it  is  true,  a  very  strong  wind,  but  it  is  steady,  the  sea  being 
constantly  from  the  west,  the  sky  clear,  and  there  is  no 
dampness  when  the  winds  are  from  the  south.  It  is  colder 
on  this  route,  but  on  the  other  hand  the  health  of  the  crew 
will  be  better. 

The  zone  between  40°  and  43°  S.  is  to  be  avoided,  as  the 
wind  is  variable  and  the  sea  irregular  and  very  heavy ; 
u  solar  "winds  are  also  very  frequent  in  this  locality,  and 
the  barometric  changes  very  great. 


186  FROM  EUROPE   TO   TAHITI. 

"The  Sibylle  left  Reunion  24  hours  after  the  Isis,  and  ar- 
rived at  Noumea  5  days  before  her,  although  their  sailing 
qualities  were  about  equal. 

"The  Sibylle  made  a  portion  of  her  longitude  on  the  paral- 
lel of  36°  30',  and  afterward  bore  south  for  Maury's  route, 
at  45°  S.,  crossing  40°  and  43°  S.  at  nearly  right  angles. 

"  The  Isis  ran  down  her  longitude  on  39°  30'  S.,  the  route 
given  by  Horsburgb.  Near  Bass  strait  the  NE.  winds 
forced  her  to  the  south  of  Tasmania,  but  the  Sibylle  was 
ahead  of  her,  having  doubled  Van  Diemen's  Land. 

"  The  route  between  40°  and  43°  S.  is  not  followed  much, 
captains  being  careful  to  avoid  this  locality.  The  winds  in 
this  zone  will  be  found  farther  to  the  north  in  the  southern 
winter  than  they  are  in  summer. 

"  Maury's  route  is  better  than  the  Admiralty's  for  well- 
equipped  vessels. 

"  I  found  a  vessel  from  Bordeaux  at  Noumea,  which  by 
following  Maury's  route  had  made  the  passage  in  105  days." 

§  106.  ROUTE  FROM  EUROPE  TO  TAHITI. — The  track 
from  Europe  to  Tahiti  by  the  cape  of  Good  Hope  follows 
the  parallel  of  50°  S.,  or  the  belt  comprised  between  45° 
and  50°  S.  The  passage  is  45  degrees  longer  in  longitude 
than  that  to  New  Caledonia, 

Ships  bound  to  New  Caledonia  commence  to  bear  north 
at  137°  or  142°  E. ;  while  those  destined  for  Tahiti  should 
run  to  the  east  until  they  cross  173°  or  168°  W.,  a  differ- 
ence in  longitude  of  50°.  Tahiti  is  situated  in  17°  30'  S., 
and  Noumea  in  about  22°  S.,  a  difference  of  5°  in  latitude. 
The  difference  to  Tahiti  is  therefore,  in  round  numbers,  55°, 
and  the  passage  from  18  to  20  days  longer.  The  whole  voyage 
roin  France  to  Tahiti  can  be  accomplished  in  from  110  to  130 
days  at  most;  while  by  the  cape  Horn  route,  touching  at  Val- 
paraiso, it  will  take  at  least  from  120  to  130  days  to  reach  Tahiti. 

1st.  The  cape  Horn  route. — Quick  passages  have  been 
made  by  this  route,  but  instances  of  them  are  rare.  In  the 
"  Navigation  of  the  Atlantic"  instructions  are  given  on  the 
passage  from  Europe  to  and  around  cape  Horn.  The  reader 
should  also  refer  to  §  44  of  this  volume.  The  last  part  of 
the  voyage  will  be  found  in  §§  93  and  94. 

2d.  The  cape  of  Good  Hope  route. — Probably  the  passage 
from  Europe  to  Tahiti  via  the  south  of  Australia  will  be 
generally  quicker  than  the  one  by  cape  Horn.  The  in- 


FllOM   AUSTRALIA  TO  EUROPE.  187 

tttructions  given  in  §§  104  and  105  should  be  followed 
until  the  ship  is  south  of  New  Zealand,  after  which  the 
crossings  should  be  approxiinatively  as  follows: 

In  January,  cross  45°  S.  between  174°  and  176°  W. ;  40° 
S.  between  161°  and  163°  W. ;  35°  S.  between  154°  and 
156^  \y. ;  and  25°  S.  between  147°  and  149°  W. 

In  February,  45°  S.  between  173°  and  175°  W. ;  40°  S. 
between  154°  and  150°  W. ;  35°  S.  and  25°  S.  between  147° 
and  149°  W. 

In  March,  45°  S.  between  169°  and  171°  W. ;  40°  S.  be- 
tween 155°  and  157°  W. ;  35°  S.  at  about  153°  W.,  and 
thence  for  Tahiti. 

In  April,  45°  S.  between  177°  and  179°  E. ;  40°  S.  be- 
tween 164°  and  166°  W. ;  30°  S.  between  153°  and  155°  W. 

In  May,  45°  S.  between  174°  and  176°  W. ;  35°  S.  be- 
tween 163°  and  165°  W.,  and  then  head  for  Tahiti. 

In  June  and  July,  45°  S.  between  174°  and  176°  W.;  and 
35°  S.  between  157°  and  159°  W. 

In  August,  45°  S.  between  174°  and  176°  W.,  and  35°  S. 
between  154°  and  156°  W. 

In  September,  45°  S.  between  174°  and  176°  W. ;  35°  S. 
between  151°  and  153°  W. ;  30°  S.  between  148°  and  150° 
W.,  and  head  for  port. 

In  October,  45°  S.  between  174°  and  176°  W.;  35°  S.  be- 
tween 158°  and  160°  W.,  and  30°  S.  between  152°  and 
154°  W. 

In  November,  45°  S.  between  177°  and  179°  E. ;  40°  S.  be- 
tween 165°  and  167°  W. ;  35°  S.  between  156°  and  158°  W. ; 
30°  S.  between  152°  and  153°  W.,  and  25°  S.  between  150° 
and  151°  W. 

In  December,  45°  S.  between  174°  and  176°  W. ;  40°  S. 
between  157°  and  159°  W. ;  35°  S.  and  30°  S.  between  146° 
and  148°  W. 

Ships  generally  pass  west  of  Eapa  island,  and  some  dis- 
tance to  the  eastward  of  Vavitao.  For  instructions  con- 
cerning the  end  of  the  voyage,  vide  §  140. 

§  107.  ROUTE  FROM  AUSTRALIA  TO  EUROPE.— There  are 
also  two  ways  of  making  this  passage,  viz :  the  cape  Horn 
route  and  the  westerly  route  by  way  of  the  cape  of  Good 
Hope  or  Suez. 

1st.  The  cape  Horn  route. — The  cape  Horn  route  is  the  best 
and  quickest  for  sailing-vessels  at  all  seasons  of  the  year. 


188  FROM  AUSTRALIA   TO   EUROPE. 

It  passes  right  through  the  middle  of  New  Zealand,  there- 
fore the  islands  can  be  doubled  either  to  N.  or  S. ;  or  after 
leaving  Sydney  vessels  can  take  either  Cook  or  Foveaux 
strait.  We  think  that  it  is  always  best  to  pass  to  the 
southward  of  New  Zealand  and  between  "  The  Snares"  and 
Auckland. 

If  the  weather  shows  every  prospect  of  remaining  fine 
and  the  wind  comes  out  ahead,  there  is  no  special  reason 
for  not  taking  Cook  strait  in  the  good  season,  especially  if 
on  board  an  auxiliary  steamer.* 

thTrSughaco?k  A  shiP  Deciding  to  take  this  strait  will  find  shelter  at  port 
Gore  or  Guard  bay  in  case  of  strong  SE.  winds ;  if  not  up  to 
these  ports  when  the  wind  begins,  she  can  anchor  at  Port 
Hardy  or  in  the  harbor  of  Croisilles  on  the  west  side  of  D'Ur- 
ville  island.  The  latter  anchorage  is  the  better,  for  a  heavy 
swell,caused  by  the  tide,  sets  through  the  inlet  at  Port  Hardy. 
On  approaching  Cook  strait  with  the  N.  W.  wind  mount  Eg- 
mont  will  be  sighted,  situated  in  39°  18'  S.  and  174°  05'  E.  It  is 
a  regular  cone  and  very  high,  the  diameter  of  its  base  being 
about  30  miles,  and  its  altitude  about  8,500  feet ;  its  summit 
is  always  covered  with  snow.  On  the  contrary,  when  near- 
ing  the  strait  with  the  8W.  wind,  endeavor  to  pass  by  cape 
Farewell,  situated  in  40°  30'  S.  and  174°  42'  E.;  but  be  care- 
ful to  avoid  the  dangerous  bank  which  extends  to  the  east 
of  the  cape  for  17  miles.  This  can  be  done  by  heading  for 
Burnett  or  Knuckle  mountain,  a  remarkable  peak  on  the 
western  coast  of  Massacre  bay.  Knuckle  hill  is  about  2,000 
feet  high,  has  two  round  summits,  the  northern  one  being 
the  highest,  and  lies  9  miles  SW.  from  cape  Farewell.  The 
light-house  on  Bush-end  point  can  be  advantageously  used 
as  a  leading  mark  to  clear  Farewell  spit. 

The  light  is  white  with  a  red  sector,  revolves  every  min- 
ute, and  is  visible  17  miles.  It  is  built  on  a  wooden  scaf- 
folding with  white  and  red  bands,  and  is  about  120  feet 
above  the  water ;  position  of  light,  lat.  40°  33'  S.,  long. 
1730  01'  45"  E.  The  red  light  shows  between  S.  27°  E. 
and  E.  29°  S.,  or  in  the  direction  of  the  spit,  and  is  hidden 
by  the  sand-dunes  from  S.  to  E.  20°  S.  The  vessel  should 
be  at  least  4  miles  from  the  N.  edge  of  the  red  light  when 
she  opens  it. 

*  Vide  §§  Sand  111  oil  the  uncertainty  of  the  weather  in  these  latitudes. 


FROM   AUSTRALIA  TO   EUROPE.  189 

Only  auxiliary-steam  vessels  and  ships  bound  to  Otago    The    passage 

.  through  Foveaux 

should  use  Foveaux  strait;    it  is  15  miles  broad,  except  strait, 
west  of  Kuapuke  island,  where  it  is  less  than  10.     The 
variable  wind  and  weather  make  navigation  through  this 
strait  dangerous  for  a  sailing-vessel,  and  a  sharp  lookout 
should  at  all  times  be  kept  for  SW.  and  NW.  squalls. 

The  current  along  the  SVV.  coast  of  Middle  or  Tavai- 
Pounamou  island  sets  south.  Vessels  striking  the  W.  wind 
out  of  Melbourne  can  take  Bass  strait,  and  pass  south  of 
Kent  islands,  heading  about  E.  by  N.  in  order  to  double 
Wright  rock  and  Endeavor  reef;  thence  pass  south  of  New 
Zealand  between  "  The  Snares  "  and  Auckland  island. 

If  after  leaving  Melbourne  an  E.  or  NE.  icind  is  found,  run 
SW.  and  between  cape  Otway  and  King  island.  After 
doubling  the  north  point  of  this  island  steer  about  S.  by  E. 
and  give  the  western  coast  of  Tasmania  a  wide  berth,  for 
sea-room  will  be  necessary  in  case  of  one  of  the  SW.  squalls 
frequent  in  these  parts;  thence  steer  for  the  passage  north 
of  Auckland. 

After  passing  New  Zealand  make  for  the   parallel  on    The  choice  of  a 
which  it  may  be  decided  to  run  down  the  longitude. 

There  are  fewer  parallels  from  which  to  choose  on  this 
route  than  on  the  one  from  Europe  to  Australia.  Cape 
Horn  being  in  56°  S.,  the  easting  will  have  to  be  made  in 
quite  high  latitudes,  in  order  to  double  the  cape  with  plenty 
of  sea-room.  Ships  passing  either  north  or  south  of  New 
Zealand  will  then  find  themselves  in  respectively  45°  or  49° 
south  latitude;  even  then  they  will  be  south  of  the  Admi- 
ralty route  of  39°  S.  From  this  it  results  that  this  passage 
is  necessarily  made  in  high  latitudes,  and  that  the  voyage 
is  rarely  a  long  one,  for  the  winds  are  here  very  stiff  from 
the  west. 

Without  fixing  on  any  particular  parallel,  we  will  only 
indicate  the  route  which  we  consider  the  best. 

We  think  that  a  ship  should  at  first  steer  to  the  east  be- 
tween 48°  and  53°  S.,  more  or  less  to  south  or  north,  accord- 
ing to  the  season. 

Farther  south  icebergs  and  cold  weather  will  be  encoun- 
tered. By  referring  to  §  43  it  will  be  seen,  however,  that  float- 
ing ice  only  passes  beyond  the  50th  parallel  from  October 
to  April,  and  that  it  may  not  be  met  south  of  50°  even  at 


190  FROM  AUSTRALIA  TO  EUROPE. 

this  season.  There  is  less  danger  of  meeting  ice  from  April 
to  October.  Therefore  the  extreme  southern  limit  for  this 
route  to  the  east  should  be  50°  8.  from  October  to  April,  and 
52°  or  53°  8.  from  April  to  October. 

If  willing  to  run  every  risk  for  the  sake  of  a  quick  passage, 
make  for  57°  or  58°  S.,  and  run  to  the  eastward  on  that 
extreme  parallel;  but  we  cannot  advise  such  a  high  latitude. 

In  short,  50°  S.  during  the  southern  summer,  and  52°  S. 
during  the  southern  winter,  would  seem  to  be  the  extreme 
limits.  During  the  long  days  of  December  and  January  a 
ship  might  run  a  little  higher;  for  instance,  after  crossing 
98°  W.,  bear  to  the  south  for  the  parallel  of  the  Diego-Ka- 
mirez  islands,  near  76°  W.  Both  winds  and  currents  will 
of  course  always  be  favorable  for  doubling  cape  Horn. 
.,The,v+°.yaffe  Instructions  relative  to  the  voyage  from  cape  Horn  to 

through  the  At-  •'  * 

lantic.  Europe  will  be  found  in  the  "  Navigation  of  the  Atlantic 

ocean." 

Never  hurry  to  the  north,  and  of  course  do  not  pass  west 
of  the  Falkland  islands.  We  would  also  state  that  sailing- 
vessels  bound  to  Europe  should  never,  unless  under  very 
extraordinary  circumstances,  cross  30°  S.  west  of  the  28th 
meridian. 

In  January,  February,  and  March  cross  30°  S.  between 
14°  and  16°  W. 

In  April,  May,  and  June,  30°  S.  between  19°  and  21°  W. 

In  July,  August,  and  September,  sailing-vessels  should 
cross  30°  S.  between  8°  and  10°  W.,  and  auxiliary  steamers 
3Qo  g.  near  27°  W. 

In  October,  November,  and  December,  30°  S.  between  7° 
and  9o  W. 

In  general,  the  farther  30°  and  40°  S.  are  crossed  to  the 
eastward  the  quicker  the  passage. 

Suppiy-poits.       In  the  author's  work  on  the  Atlantic  (pages  172  and  173) 
a  few  details  were  given  in  regard  to  Port  Stanley. 

We  take  from  Ann.  Hydr.,  vol.  30,  the  following  extract 
relating  to  the  Falkland  or  Malouines  islands  : 

"  Coal  and  provisions  can  be  obtained  at  these  islands. 
Rear-Admial  Hastings  states  that  he  procured  from  u  Dean 
and  Son"  408  tons  of  coal  in  16  hours.  This  firm  also  had 
all  kinds  of  ship-stores.  According  to  the  admiral,  every 


FROM  AUSTRALIA  TO  EUROPE.  191 

ship  bound  around  the  cape  should  revictual  at  the  Falk- 
lands." 

Another  account  of  these  islands  (Ann.  Hijdr.,  1872)  gives 
an  entirely  different  idea  of  the  islands : 

"  The  pilotage  is  not  all  that  could  be  desired.  I  would 
not  advise  a  ship  to  touch  at  Port  Stanley  when  she  can 
reach  La  Plata  or  Rio.  The  smallest  repairs  take  2  or  3 
months,  and  a  captain  wishing  to  careen  his  ship  may  be 
forced  to  wait  weeks  for  a  still  enough  day  in  which  to  do 
it." 

The  following  passage  is  from  the  report  of  Captain  Lau- 
nay,  commanding  the  Virginie,  which  vessel  touched  at  Port 
Stanley  in  March,  1873 : v 

"  In  a  commercial  point  of  view  this  port  is  important, 
as  30  or  40  ships  in  distress  usually  touch  there  every  year  j 
some  of  these  are  condemned  on  account  of  the  high  price 
of  labor.  Provisions,  &c.,  are  quite  moderate.  Soft  coal 
costs  (coal  was  very  high  in  1873)  818  per  ton ;  tallow,  1ft 
cents  per  pound ;  fresh  beef,  10  cents  per  pound ;  strong 
mutton,  10  cents  per  pound.  If  provisions  are  brought  off 
in  the  ship's  boats  the  prices  are  lower.  Canned  fruits  and 
vegetables  are  abundant." 

The  following  circular  has  been  issued  by  The  Falkland 
Islands  Company : 

u  Good  water  from  the  government  reservoir  is  worth  2s» 
6d.  per  ton  when  taken  off'  by  the  ship's  boats,  and  12s.  6d. 
delivered  alongside.  The  price  is  16s.  when  less  than  5 
tons  are  taken.  If  delivered  outside,  it  brings  20s.  Ballast 
can  be  found  ashore,  or  delivered  for  7s.  per  ton.  Fresh 
beef  and  mutton  are  worth  &d.  per  pound ;  vegetables  sell 
from  \d.  to  2%d.  A  supply  of  coal  is  always  on  hand.'r 

We  will  conclude  by  repeating  that  Saint  Helena  is  the 
lest  supply  port  for  sailing-vessels,  but  that  Port  Stanley 
may  be  useful  in  case  of  necessity. 

The  following  instructions  from  Horsburgh,  Fitz-Roy,  and 
Maury  may  be  useful : 

Horsburgh's  instructions. — "  Ships  from  Port  Jackson  or 
Tasmania,  bound  to  Europe  in  the  summer  months,  and  per- 
haps  at  all  seasons,  may  expect  to  make  a  quicker  passage 
around  cape  Horn  than  by  any  other  route,  for  the  preva- 
lence of  westerly  winds  in  high  southern  latitudes  is  favor-- 
able for  that  passage. 


192  FROM  AUSTRALIA  TO  EUROPE. 

"  Ships  pursuing  ths  route  from  Port  Jackson  round  cape 
Horn  have  in  general  made  favorable  passages  round  cape 
Horn ;  but,  as  stormy  weather  and  high  seas  may  be  ex- 
pected at  times  in  high  southern  latitudes,  this  route  ought 
not  to  be  chosen  in  a  leaky  or  crazy  ship,  and  those  who 
pursue  it  ought  particularly  to  keep  a  good  lookout  for  ice- 
islands,  both  to  the  westward  and  eastward  of  cape  Horn. 

"  Icebergs  are  most  constantly  found  between  133°  and 
110°  W.  during  the  winter  season,  probably  drifted  from 
a  large  extent  of  undiscovered  land  to  the  southward." 

Fitz-Rotfs  instructions. — "  In  crossing  the  Pacific,  toward 
the  east,  in  southern  latitudes,  a  ship  should  not  go  beyond 
50°  S.  till  near  cape  Horn,  as  there  is  usually  much  ice 
southward  of  that  parallel,  especially  in  the  eastern  part  of 
the  South  Pacific,  and  occasionally  it  is  met  with  some  de- 
grees farther  north  in  autumn  (February,  March,  and  April,) 
after  long  continuance  of  westerly  gales. 

"A  few  hundred  miles  may  be  saved  in  distance  out  of 
about  twelve  thousand  by  going  into  very  high  southern 
latitudes,  but  at  the  risk  of  encountering  ice,  and  with  the 
certainty  of  a  very  cold,  disagreeable  climate.  This  applies 
equally  to  Australian  passages  by  the  cape  of  Good  Hope, 
where  great -circle  sailing  has  been  carried  too  far  by  some 
ships. 

"In  the  long,  dark  nights  of  an  antarctic  winter,  when 
the  moon  is  not  nearly  full,  ice  (especially  the  low,  less  visi- 
ble floes  which  are  not  many  feet  above  the  surface  of  the 
water)  is  especially  to  be  guarded  against  by  the  most  vigi- 
lant lookout,  and  by  keeping  under  manageable  sail,  in  readi- 
ness to  alter  the  course  instantly  it'  danger  is  suddenly  re- 
ported. 

"  In  the  summer  of  the  southern  seas  there  is  so  little 
night  that  ships  may  run  with  security,  provided  that  (even 
in  broad  daylight)  a  good  lookout  ahead  is  invariably  main- 
tained under  all  circumstances.  Foggy  weather  is  compar- 
atively rare,  unless  very  far  south. 

"  The  distance  on  the  great  circle  between  the  SW.  cape 
of  Van  Diemen's  land  and  cape  Horn  is  5,100  miles.  The 
average  length  of  the  voyage  (from  17  logs)  from  Melbourne 
to  cape  Horn  is  35  days;  the  distance  sailed,  about  5,500 
miles." 

Maimfs  imtruciions. — " The   same  'brave   west  winds," 


FROM  AUSTRALIA   TO   EUROPE.  193 

\vbich  take  vessels  so  rapidly  from  the  meridiaii  of  the  cape 
of  Good  Hope  eastwardly  along  the  parallels  of  50°  to  GO0 
toward  Australia,  will  also  bring  them  over  eastwardly 
along  the  same  parallels  toward  cape  Horn. 

"The  investigations  which  have  been  carried  on  at  this 
office,  concerning  the  winds  of  that  part  of  the  ocean,  forbid 
me  to  recommend  the  Admiralty  route  to  any  homeward- 
bound  European  or  American  vessel,  under  any  circum- 
stances whatever;  always  assuming  that  these  directions 
are  intended  for  ships  that  are  seaworthy,  properly  fitted 
out,  and  sound.  The  average  passage  to  Europe  by  this 
Admiralty  route  is  120  days.  Ships  may  occasionally  find 
the  easterly  winds  as  low  down  south  as  the  directions  of 
the  Admiralty  suggest ;  but  it  is  the  exception,  not  the  rule, 
so  to  find  them.  In  proof  of  this  I  refer  to  the  pilot-charts 
of  that  part  of  the  ocean,  arid  shall  quots  other  authorities. 

"Returning  by  way  of  cape  Horn  homeward,  the  best 
routo  is  to  get  south  of  the  parallel  of  40°  as  soon  as  you 
can,  and  then  shape  the  course  direct  for  cape  Horn,  recol- 
lecting that  the  farther  you  keep  south  of  the  middle  of  the 
straight  line  on  your  chart  from  Van  Diemen's  land  to  cape 
Horn,  the  nearer  you  are  to  the  great-circle  route,  and  the 
shorter  the  distance — the  difference  by  the  great  circle  and 
by  the  straight  course  on  the  charts  being  upward  of  1,000 
miles. 

"  In  the  passage  from  Australia  to  cape  Horn,  by  keeping 
between  the  parallels  of  40°  and  GO0  all  the  way,  you  will, 
I  am  of  the  opinion,  feel  more  or  less  the  warmth  and  set 
of  a  current  that  passes  south  of  Australia  from  the  Indian 
ocean.  Whether  the  boisterous  weather  to  which  a  warm 
current  in  suck  latitudes  would  give  rise  will  compensate 
for  the  advantages  to  be  gained  in  other  respects,  must  be 
left  for  experience  to  determine.  For  my  own  part,  I  do 
not  suppose  this  current  to  be  as  strongly  marked  as  is 
our  Gulf  Stream  in  the  Atlantic ;  though  the  passage 
from  the  capes  of  the  Delaware  to-Liverpool  may  be  consid- 
ered as  affording  us  the  means  of  judging  pretty  accurately 
as  to  this  passage  from  Australia — the  chief  difference  be- 
ing, I  suppose,  in  the  climate  and  the  gales. 

"  The  climate  in  the  Pacific,  along  this  route,  will  be  found 
not  quite  so  mild  as  is  that  along  the  European  route  in  the 
Atlantic.    But  the  gales  in  the  Atlantic  are  probably  more 
13  N 


194  FROM  AUSTRALIA  TO  EUROPE. 

frequent  and  violent  than  they  are  in  the  South  Pacific — at 
any  rate,  I  suppose  that  such  will  be  found  to  be  the  case 
until  you  reach  the  regions  of  cape  Horn. 

"  The  Australian  routes  present  occasional  opportunities 
for  fine  runs.  In  the  South  Pacific  ocean,  below  the  paral- 
lel of  35°  or  40°  S.  and  away  from  the  influence  of  the  land 
— as  along  this  route,  especially  from  New  Zealand  to  cape 
Horn — the  westerly  winds  blow  almost  with  the  regularity 
of  the  trades ;  and  a  fast  vessel,  taking  a  westerly  gale  as 
she  clears  the  New  Zealand  islands,  may,  now  and  then,  run 
along  with  it  pretty  nearly  to  cape  Horn. 

"  These  winds  are  already  beginning  to  be  known  so  well 
to  the  Australian  traders,  that  it  is  usual  for  them,  I  am 
told,  when  bound  home  by  this  route,  to  strike  top-gallant 
masts  before  leaving  port.  It  is  a  voyage  that  tries  ship 
and  crew ;  but  of  all  the  voyages  in  the  world,  that  part  of 
it  between  the  offings  of  Australia  and  cape  Horn  is  per- 
haps the  most  speedy  for  canvas.  There  it  may  outrun 
steam." 

2d.  The  westerly  route. — The  Australia  Directory  advises 
ships  bound  from  Australia  to  Europe  or  Hindostan,  from 
September  to  April,  to  proceed  to  the  westward,  passing 
south  of  Australia  and  by  Torres  strait  during  the  southern 
winter.  Maury  strongly  opposes  these  directions,  and  with 
reason,  as  may  be  seen  by  reference  to  the  extract  in  the 
first  part  of  this  paragraph. 

As,  however,  the  opinion  of  the  British  Admiralty  has 
much  weight,  we  would  refer  the  reader  to  §  172,  where  will 
be  found  a  quotation  from  the  Directory. 

Still,  the  cape  Horn  route  is,  in  our  opinion,  the  best  on 
which  to  make  the  return  passage  to  Europe. 

Vessels  bound  to  Singapore,  Cochin-China,  or  Keunion, 
can  round  Australia  either  to  N.  or  S.  Instructions  relating 
to  this  passage  will  be  found  in  §§  171  and  172. 

Auxiliary  steamers  will  find  this  west  route  the  most  rapid, 
especially  as  they  can  make  the  return  passage  from  Aus- 
tralia through  the  Suez  canal. 

A  ship  starting  from  Sydney,  between  May  and  August, 
can  count  on  the  SE.  monsoon  to  set  her  through  Torres 
strait,  (vide  §  171.)  SE.  winds  will  also  be  experienced  while 
crossing  the  Indian  ocean  near  the  parallels  of  12°  or  15°  S. 
Cross  the  equator  a  little  to  the  north  of  the  Seychelles,  and 


FROM  NEW   CALEDONIA   TO  EUROPE.  195 

rim  for  Aden,  under  low  steam,  if  uecessary.  Before  Octo- 
ber a  ship  will  probably  have  strong  head  winds  all  the  way 
up  the  Bed  sea. 

The  worst  time  of  the  year  to  leave  Sydney  is  between 
July  and  January.  The  NW.  monsoon  will  at  this  season 
prevent  the  passage  through  Torres  strait,  and  as  the  route 
north  of  New  Guinea  will  be  too  long,  the  cape  Horn  voyage 
will  almost  invariably  be  preferable.  In  January,  February, 
and  March,  there  is  no  reason  why  vessels  should  not  run 
south  of  Australia,  especially  if  their  port  of  departure  be 
Melbourne  or  Port  Adelaide,  (vide  §  172.)  After  doubling 
cape  Leeuwin  run  to  the  west  with  the  SE.  trades  between 
22°  and  17°  S. ;  but  do  not  cross  15°  S.  before  reaching  62° 
and  64°  E.  Thence  bear  north,  when  the  SE.  trades  will 
be  replaced  by  the  NW.  monsoon,  or  rather  by  the  variable 
winds  from  NW.,  SW.,  and  SE.,  which  generally  come  un- 
der the  head  of  the  N  W.  monsoon. 

The  NE.  monsoon  prevails  at  some  distance  north  of  the 
line,  except  toward  the  end  of  March  and  the  beginning  of 
April,  when  the  change  in  the  monsoons  takes  place. 

At  this  time  vessels  will  have  to  steam  for  Aden.  From 
October  to  April  the  winds  are  from  S.  and  SE.,  in  the 
southern  part  of  the  Red  sea,  and  as  far  north  as  the  17th 
parallel. 

The  Suez  route  is  therefore  not  favorable  for  sailing-ves- 
sels, and  only  for  auxiliary  steamers,  from  the  beginning  of 
May  to  the  end  of  July,  when  they  can  pass  through  Torres 
strait.  Of  course,  we  do  not  bring  the  mail  steamers  into 
these  considerations. 

The  cape  of  Good  Hope  route  seems  hardly  admissible 
for  auxiliary  steamers  that  can  take  the  Suez  canal,  nor 
would  we  recommend  it  for  sailing-vessels.*  It  is  always  a 
tedious  passage,  particularly  when  doubling  the  cape,  in 
June,  July,  or  August.  During  these  months  the  weather 
off  the  cape  of  "  Tempests"  is  alternately  stormy  and  calm. 
Cyclones  also  are  frequent  from  December  to  March,  in  the 
neighborhood  of  Reunion.  By  all  means  take  the  cape 
Horn  route. 

§  108.  ROUTE  FROM:  NEW  CALEDONIA  TO  EUROPE.— 
1st.  The  cape  Horn  route. — The  reader  should  refer  to  the  first 
part  of  §  107,  where  he  will  find  useful  information. 

*  Vide  p.  103,  "  Navigation  South  Atlantic." 


FROM  NEW  CALEDONIA  TO  EUROPE. 

The  greatest  difficulty  on  this  route  for  a  sailing-ship  will 
be  doubling  the  N.  and  NE.  capes  of  North  island,  New 
Zealand.  We  will,  therefore,  give  the  following  instructions, 
which,  if  not  absolutely  indispensable,  are  at  least  very  nec- 
essary for  passing  north  of  New  Zealand.  The  passage 
through  Cook  or  Foveaux  strait  is  not  advisable  on  account 
of  the  exceptionably  bad  weather  which  prevails  near  the 
west  coast  of  New  Zealand,  (vide  §  8.)  Ships  often  have  to 
lie-to  in  this  locality  with  a  lee-shore  close  aboard.  Pre- 
suming that  the  ship  is  not  pooped,  (as  a  certain  frigate 
was,)  she  will  be  forced  to  run  through  Cook  strait,  with  a 
gale  of  wind  after  her  from  NW.,  a  bad  horizon,  no  land  in 
sight,  and  with  the  danger  of  being  "  broached-to,"  etc.  In 
fact,  the  climate  to  the  west  of  New  Zealand  is  about  the 
worst  in  the  world,  and  if  she  should  chance  to  fall  in  with 
a  good  spell  of  weather,  it  is  not  likely  to  last  more  than  12 
hours.  Even  an  auxiliary  steamer  will  find  it  to  her  ad- 
vantage to  double  cape  Otou  to  the  northward. 

Therefore,  after  leaving  Noumea,  run  to  the  southward 
and  eastward  for  New  Zealand ;  if  in  an  auxiliary  steamer 
do  not  hesitate  to  use  even  one-third  of  the  whole  allowance 
of  coal  ;  if  in  a  sailing-vessel  remember  that  the  length  of 
the  passage  to  Europe  depends  greatly  on  the  time  spent  on 
this,  the  first,  part  of  the  voyage.  From  Noumea  to  30°  S. 
the  wind  will  be  from  SE.  but  very  variable.  After  leaving 
New  Zealand  use  every  means  to  make  to  the  east  and 
south ;  if,  therefore,  the  wind  should  come  out  from  S.  and 
SSE.,  take  the  starboard  tack;  if  it  should  haul  ahead,  do 
not  keep  off  to  the  north  of  east,  but  go  about  immediately. 
South  of  30°  S.  the  wind  will  become  still  more  variable, 
when  take  advantage  of  it  by  either  beating  or  scudding,  as 
the  case  may  be.  Here  stearn  will  outrun  sail.  The  worst 
months  for  doubling  New  Zealand  are  those  between  the 
beginning  of  September  and  the  end  of  February. 

After  leaving  cape  Otou,  or  North  cape,  it  will  be  com- 
paratively easy  to  double  East  cape  and  to  pass  east  of 
Chatham  islands.  After  crossing  48°  or  49°  S.  between 
158°  or  163°  W.,  run  down  the  easting  to  northward  of  50° 
S.,  from  October  to  April;  and  north  of  52°  S.  between 
April  and  October.  Beyond  98°  or  93°  W.,  commence  to 
bear  away  around  cape  Horn.  We  once  more  repeat  that 
when  detained  for  an  unusually  long  time  between  Noumea 


FROM  NEW   CALEDONIA   TO   EUROPE.  197 

and  New  Zealand,  the  whole  first  half  of  the  voyage  to  Eu- 
rope will  be  prolonged. 

But,  beyond  cape  Horn,  it  will  be  the  captain's  own  fault 
if  he  strike  north  too  quickly  and  thus  lengthen  the  pas- 
sage j  in  other  words,  the  passage  will  be  a  long  one  if  30° 
S.  be  crossed  to  the  westward  of  28°  W.  Navigators 
should  particularly  remember  this  and  cross  30°  S.  some- 
where between  7°  and  21°  W.,  according  to  the  season  and 
the  instructions  in  §  107,  (vide  also  §  14  "  Navigation  of 
South  Atlantic.") 

In  the  "Navigation  of  the  Atlantic  ocean  "it  is  stated 
that  the  line  should  be  crossed  at  the  following  points :  in 
July  and  August,  at  21°  W.  5  in  September,  at  22°  W. ;  in 
June,  October,  and  November,  at  23°  W.j  in  January,  at 
25°  W.  j  during  the  remainder  of  the  year  at  24°  W. 

After  crossing  the  NE.  trades  rap-full  the  easting  for 
Gibraltar,  or  the  channel  will  have  to  be  made  well  to  the 
northward,  as  the  west  winds  keep  to  high  latitudes  in  this 
part  of  the  Atlantic. 

There  are  many  instances  of  quick  runs  from  New  Cale- 
donia to  Europe. 

The  Garonne,  Captain  Kallier,  left  Noumea  on  the  6th 
December,  1872,  and  anchored  at  Brest  on  the  7th  March, 
1873,  90  days  at  sea.  The  Orne  left  New  Caledonia  on  the 
8th  June,  1873,  put  in  at  St.  Helena  on  the  9th  August,  and 
arrived  at  Brest  on  the  llth  September,  94  days  at  sea,  and 
1  day  at  St.  Helena. 

2nd.  The  westerly  route. — It  is  generally  conceded  that 
the  cape  Horn  route  is  the  only  one  for  sailing-ships.  Small 
auxiliary  steamers,  fearing  the  rough  seas  of  high  latitudes, 
can  take  the  westerly  route,  especially  if  they  are  bound  to 
one  of  the  Mediterranean  seaports,  and  pass  through  Torres 
strait  and  the  Suez  canal.  In  this  case,  they  should  leave 
Noumea  between  the  beginning  of  May  and  the  last  of  July, 
or  at  the  furthest  not  later  than  the  first  days  of  August. 

The  SE.  monsoon  will  carry  them  through  Torres  strait 
without  difficulty,  (vide  §§  139  and  171.)  Thence  the  track 
lies  through  the  Indian  ocean,  between  the  parallels  of  12° 
and  15°  S.,  and  crosses  the  line  N.  of  the  Seychelles.  Fin- 
ish the  passage  as  stated  in  §  107. 

There  is  nothing  to  be  gained  by  taking  this  route  at  any 
other  season,  for  a  ship  would  have  to  pass  either  south  of 


198  FROM  TAHITI  TO   EUROPE. 

Australia  in  January,  February,  or  March,  or  north  of  New 
Guinea  from  October  to  January.  In  the  latter  case  a  large 
detour  through  Gillolo  or  Dampier  straits  will  have  to  be 
made,  (vide  §§  139  and  171.) 

Sailing-vessels  should  therefore  never  take  the  west  route? 
and  small  auxiliary  steamers  only  when  they  can  leave 
Noumea  between  May  and  August,  or  when  bound  to  one 
of  the  Mediterranean  ports.  Large  auxiliary  steam-vessels, 
frigates  and  corvettes  for  instance,  can  make  a  quick  trip 
by  this  route,  through  Torres  strait,  and  thence  to  Suez ; 
always  provided  they  start  between  May  and  August.  At 
all  other  seasons  they  should  take  the  cape  Horn  route, 
particularly  if  bound  to  one  of  the  Atlantic  ports  of  the 
French  coast,  and  wishing  to  save  coal. 

The  following  account  of  a  west  passage  is  from  the  log 
of  the  dispatch-ship  Guichen,  (screw,)  Captain  Perrier: 

'•  Left  Noumea  on  the  1st  July,  1871;  passed  through  Tor- 
res strait  by  the  Eaine  island  channel,  on  the  llth  and  12th 
July.  Arrived  at  Kupang  (Timor)  on  the  19th,  and  left 
on  the  same  day.  Kan  through  the  Indian  ocean  between 
the  parallels  of  12°  and  15°  S.,  with  steady  winds  from 
SSE.  to  E.  Anchored  at  Mahe  (Seychelles)  on  the  12th 
August;  coal-bunkers  still  full.  Left  on  the  18th  August, 
and  reached  cape  GuardaM  under  sail;  then  got  up  steam. 
Arrived  at  Aden  on  the  28th  August,  and  left  the  same  day. 
Found  a  stiff  breeze  from  NNVV.  and  rough  sea,  in  the 
southern  part  of  the  Bed  sea. 

''Head  winds  forced  us  to  anchor,  on  the  2d  September, 
at  Djeddah  to  take  in  coal.  Arrived  at  Suez  on  the  9th 
September,  and  at  Port  Said  on  the  llth.  Seventy-two 
days  from  Noumea  to  Port  Said."* 

§109.  EOUTE  FROM  TAHITI  TO  EUROPE. — After  leaving 
Tahiti  keep  the  sails  full  and  make  as  much  to  the  south- 
ward and  eastward  as  the  variable  direction  of  the  trades 
w7ill  permit. 

The  prevalent  west  winds  do  not  generally  come  north  of 
35°  S.  After  finding  them  the  ship  should  follow  as  nearly  as 
possible  a  great-circle  route  to  cape  Horn.  Thus,  after 

*  The  reader  will  note  that  this  passage  was  made  during  the  favor- 
able season,  and  that  the  only  difficulty  experienced  was  the  head  winds 
in  the  Red  sea.  The  Guichen  arrived  at  Rochefort  on  the  12fch  October 
— 103  days  from  Noumea. 


FROM   TAHITI  TO   EUKOPE.  199 

crossing  40°  S.  near  140°  W.,  head  her  for  50°  S.  in  the  neigh- 
borhood of  123°  W. ;  and  55°  S.  near  103°  W. 

Probably  the  passage  will  be  nearly  as  quick,  and  the 
chances  of  meeting  ice  less,  especially  from  October  to 
April,  via  the  following  route.  After  reaching  40°  S.  steer 
nearly  SE.,  if  the  winds  allow.  When  near  the  highest  lati- 
tude— 50°  S.  from  October  to  April,  or  52°  S.  from  April 
to  October — run  down  the  easting,  keeping  a  little  to  the 
northward  of  this  extreme  latitude-limit ;  for  south  of  it  the 
ice  is  dangerous.  Do  not  commence  to  bear  south  until 
beyond  98°  W.,  or  rather,  near  93°  W. ;  when  steer  to  cross 
the  parallel  of  Diego  liamirez  islands  near  76°  W. ;  then 
double  cape  Horn. 

It  is  impossible  to  indicate  the  crossings  which  should  be 
made  between  Tahiti  and  the  parallels  of  35°  or  40°  S. ; 
for  they  will  be  different  according  to  the  season  and  the 
direction  of  the  wind.  The  wind,  south  of  Tahiti,  may  be 
said  to  be  generally  from  E.  and  SE.,  yet  even  here  it  often 
blows  from  all  points  of  the  compass.  The  observations  of 
two  or  three  consecutive  months  go  to  prove  that  the  direc- 
tion of  the  wind  is  variable  for  almost  every  day. 

The  only  advice  therefore  that  can  be  given  is  to  make 
south  as  soon  as  it  can  be  done  without  hugging  the  wind  ; 
the  west  wind  will  be  found  near  35°  or  40°  S.  The  passage 
from  cape  Horn  to  Europe  is  the  same  as  that  in  §  107.* 

Passage  of  the  sailing-frigate  Alceste,  Captain  Brosset, 
(Ann.  Hydr.,  1871.)—"  I  left  Tahiti  on  the  18th  November, 
or,  in  other  words,  at  the  beginning  of  the  winter  months,  for 
the  groups  S.  of  the  line.  At  this  season  the  trades  are 
often  interrupted  by  variable  winds  and  long  calms,  and 
the  Alceste  took  14  days  to  make  the  660  miles  to  the  par- 
allel of  300  s. 

"  At  30°  S.  I  ran  out  of  the  belt  of  calms  and  variable 
winds;  and  at  39°  S.  met  the  west  winds.  These  blew 
freshly  from  N.,  W.,  and  S.,  and  as  they  never  got  to  the 
eastward  of  the  latter  point,  I  made  rapid  way.  At  53°  S. 
and  88°  W.  I  met  a  violent  westerly  gale.  It  sprung  up 
from  SW.  at  1  a.  m.  on  the  23d.  The  aneroid  barometer  in- 
dicated its  approach  by  a  slight  rise.  The  wind  shifted 
according  to  the  law  for  the  southern  hemisphere ;  that  is,  in 
a  direction  against  the  hands  of  a  watch." 

*  The  Sibylle  made  the  passage  from  Tahiti  to  Toulon  in  107  days. 


CHAPTER   V. 

ROUTES    FROM    THE    PORTS    OF    AUSTRALIA    OR    ASIA    TO 
THE    EAST. 

iaMe?mPortAde"  § 11()-  ROUTE  FROM  AUSTRALIA  TO  THE  WESTERN 
COAST  OF  AMERICA.— A  ship  starting  from  Port  Adelaide 
should  proceed  south  of  Tasmania.  Off  Melbourne  the 
winds  are  generally  westerly,  and  enable  vessels  to  run 
along  the  south  coast  of  Sir  Eoger  Curtis  islands,  and 
thence,  either  north  or  south  of  Kent  group. 

If  the  wind  come  out  from  the  eastward,  as  it  is  likely 
to  do  in  January,  February,  and  March,  pass  west  of  King 
island,  and  well  to  the  west  of  Tasmania.  For  the  passage 
through  Bass  strait  vide  §  104.  The  reader  should  also 
refer  to  §  107. 

From  Sydney.  jf  tne  p0|nt  of  departure  be  Sydney,  the  beginning  of  the 
voyage  should  be  in  accordance  with  the  instructions  in 
§  107. 

In  all  cases,  after  a  vessel  is  once  to  the  eastward  of  New 
Zealand,  she  should  head — as  near  as  the  wind  will  allow — 
for  her  extreme  parallel,  or  rather  a  little  to  the  north  of  it; 
this  extreme  latitude  will  be  50°  S.  from  October  to  April, 
and  52°  S.  during  the  rest  of  the  year.  Thence  make  the 
easting,  but  do  not  get  to  the  south  of  these  parallels  if  it 
can  be  avoided. 

ara£od  to  Val  If  the  point  of  destination  be  Valparaiso,  do  not  make  any 
northing  until  near  103°  W.  Cross  48°  or  47°  S.  near  98° 
W. ;  and  approach  the  land  to  the  southward  of  your  port. 
Look  out  for  a  norther  near  the  coast  of  Chile,  especially 
during  the  bad  season,  from  the  end  of  May  to  September, 
(vide  §§  29,  69  to  71,  and  110.) 

Bound  to  cai-  Vessels  bound  to  Callao  can  begin  to  bear  to  the  north- 
ward after  crossing  the  meridian  of  123°  or  120°  W.  They 
should  strike  the  SE.  trades  near  90°  W.,  and  then  steer 
for  their  destination;  being  careful  to  keep  it  bearing  to 
the  northward  of  !NE.,  to  avoid  the  necessity  of  hugging 
the  wind  in  case  it  haul  ahead. 


FROM  AUSTRALIA   TO   THE  WESTERN   COAST  OF   AMERICA.       201 

A  ship,  about  to  make  passage  to  Panama,  can  follow  a  m  £°nnd  to  Pana- 
more  westerly  route  than  the  above.    She  should  sight  cape 
San  Francisco,  and  finish  the  voyage  as  stated  in  §§  48  and 
54. 

If  going  to  Mexico,  she  should  follow  the  same  route,  ic^°und  to  Mex' 
entering  the  SE.  trades  near  30°  S.  and  93°  W.,  and  crossing 
the  line,  either  to  east  or  west  of  the  Galapagos  islands, 
according  to  the  season.    For  instructions  relative  to  the 
last  part  of  the  voyage,  vide  §  49. 


When  bound  to  San  Francisco,  Maury  says  to  cross  45°  0 

and  40°  S.  betwee  150°  and  140°  W.;  and  the  equator  be- 
tween 130°  and  120°  W.  Information  concerning  the  last 
part  of  this  passage  will  be  found  in  §  50. 

Maurtfs  instructions  on  the  passage  from  Australia  to  Cali- 
fornia. —  "  In  coming  out  of  the  Victoria  ports  go  south  of 
Van  Diemen's  land,  or  through  Bass  strait,  as  you  have  the 
winds  and  find  it  expedient. 

"  Being  south  of  Van  Diemen's  land  makes  it  convenient 
to  pass  south  of  New  Zealand,  if  the  wind  be  fair,  as  in  the 
majority  of  cases  it  will  be.  Having  passed  south  of  New 
Zealand  steer  for  the  parallel  of  40°  or  45°  S.,  between  the 
•neridians  of  150°  and  140°  W.  ;  thonco  for  the  equator  !><•- 
120°  and  130°  W.,  crossing  by  a  north  course  both 
the  horse  latitudes  of  the  southern  hemisphere  and  the 
equatorial  doldrums  ;  then  run  through  the  NE.  trades  as 
best  you  may,  keeping  a  "  rap-full,"  and  running  up  into  the 
variables  beyond  the  horse-latitude  calms  of  the  northern 
hemisphere,  if  need  be,  to  complete  your  easting,  and  make 
your  port. 

"If  the  winds  be  not  fair  for  passing  south  of  New  Zea- 
land, try  Cook  strait  in  preference  to  passing  to  the  north 
of  New  Ulster. 

"  If  you  pass  through  Cook  strait,  then  stick  her  well  to 
the  eastward,  and  take  the  eastern  passage.  On  this  pas- 
sage you  should  run  down  your  easting  pretty  well  before 
you  get  far  enough  north  to  be  bothered  by  tue  baffling 
winds  of  the  horse  latitudes  south.  If  these  come  as  low 
down  as  38°  or  40°  S.,  stand  north  the  moment  you  feel 
them  till  you  get  the  SE.  trades  ;  then  cross  these  and  the 
NE.  trades,  both  as  obliquely  to  the  eastward  as  they  will 
permit,  with  fore-topmast  studding-sail  set. 

"  On  this  passage  you  will  have,  finally,  to  run  down 


202  FROM  AUSTRALIA   TO   NEW   CALEDONIA. 

your  easting  when  you  get  in  the  variables  beyond  the  NE. 
trades,  and,  of  course,  you  will  aim  to  reach  the  parallel  of 
38°  or  40°  N.,  or  even  a  higher  one  north,  to  do  this.  How 
far  you  will  go  north  depends  somewhat  upon  the  distance 
you  may  be  west  of  California  when  you  lose  the  NE.  trades. 
If  you  be  only  a  degree  or  two  from  the  laud  you  wijl  steer 
straight  for  your  port  without  caring  to  get  to  the  north- 
ward of  it;  but  if  you  be  ten  or  twenty  degrees  to  the  west 
•of  it,  or  even  farther,  then,  of  course,  the  distance  to  be 
run  makes  it  an  object  to  turn  out  of  your  way  and  go  north 
in  search  of  good  winds. 

u  The  most  difficult  and  uncertain  parts  of  this  passage 
will  be  in  the  time  required  to  cross  the  three  belts  of  calms, 
and  to  clear  the  winter  fogs  of  California.  But  for  these 
the  eastern  passage,  from  Victoria  to  California,  would  be 
one  of  the  most  certain  passages  in  the  world. 

u  The  distance  from  Victoria  to  California  cannot  be  ac- 
complished under  canvas,  by  the  eastern  route,  much 
short  of  8,700  miles.  But  driving  captains,  with  clipper- 
ships  under  them,  may  expect  to  average,  one  trip  with 
another,  along  this  route,  not  far  from  200  miles  per  day ; 
for  I  feel  assured  there  is  no  part  of  the  ocean  in  which  the 
winds  generally  admit  of  more  heavy  dragging  and  constant 
driving  than  they  will  in  the  extra-tropical  regions  of  the- 
South  Pacific ;  say  on  the  polar  side  of  43°  S." 

§  111.  EOUTE  FROM  AUSTRALIA  TO  NEW  CALEDONIA.— 
After  leaving  Sydney  run  to  the  eastward,  without  bearing 
north,  until  about  450  miles  from  the  Australian  coast. 
Then  commence  to  make  the  northing  and  gain  the  exceed- 
ingly variable  SE.  winds,  which  are  here  termed  trades. 

The  length  of  this  passage,  under  sail,  will  be  very  irreg- 
ular; perhaps  only  8  days;  perhaps  over  three  weeks. 
From  June  to  September  the  voyage  will  be  quite  easy,  and 
vessels  can  run  straight  away  north.  During  the  rest  of 
the  year  the  east  winds  come  farther  south ;  it  will  then  be 
advisable  to  run  farther  to  the  eastward  on  the  parallel  of 
Sydney.  The  following  crossings  will  give  an  approxi- 
mative idea  of  the  mean  route  : 

In  January,  vessels  may  follow  the  parallel  of  Sydney  to 
160°  E. ;  cross  30^  S.  near  167°  E.,  and  then  easily  bear  to 
the  northward. 


FROM  AUSTRALIA  TO  NEW  CALEDONIA.  203 

Iii  February,  cross  155°  E.  between  33°  and  35°  S.;  165° 
E.  between  31°  and  33°  S.,  and  30°  S.  between  166°  and 
IGTo  E. 

In  March,  155°  and  160°  E.  between  33°  and  35°  S.,  and 
the  parallel  of  29°  S.  between  166°  and  168°  E. 

In  April,  155°  and  160°  E.  between  33°  and  35°  S.,  and 
30  S.  between  163°  and  165°  E. 

In  May,  160°  E.  near  33°  S.,  and  the  parallel  of  30°  S. 
between  165°  and  167°  E. 

From  June  to  September,  vessels  will  be  able  to  pass  close 
to  the  east  of  Ball  pyramid,  and  to  cross  30°  S.  in  the  neigh- 
borhood of  162°  E.,  whence  the  passage  will  be  easy. 

In  September  and  October  they  can  reach  30°  S.  without 
difficulty  between  162°  and  164°  E.,  and  thence  for  Noumea. 

In  November  and  December  they  can  follow  the  parallel  of 
Sydney  until  they  are  near  162°  E.,  and  then  bear  away 
in  order  to  cross  30°  S.  well  to  eastward  of  165°  E.,  espe- 
cially in  December. 

The  light-house  on  Amede"e  islet  has  greatly  facilitated 
the  approach  to  Noumea.  One  very  important  injunction 
is  still  necessary,  which  is  to  make  the  light  between  NNE. 
and  E.  by  X. 

If  the  light  be  sighted,  bearing  NB.  for  instance,  irom 
deck  on  a  clear  day,  the  reefs  will  be  at  least  15  or  20  miles 
distant.  A  ship  endeavoring  to  make  the  light-house  in 
any  other  bearings  than  the  ones  mentioned  above,  may  be 
on  top  of  the  rocks  even  before  she  sights  it.  Therefore 
place  the  vessel  to  the  SW.  of  the  light  when  at  least  60 
miles  off  and  lay  a  NE.  course. 

The  tower  is  a  good  mark  in  daytime.  Ships  generally 
run  in  by  one  of  the  Bulari  passes,  between  To  and  Toombo 
reefs.  There  is  a  small  shoal  between  the  two  passes,  on 
which  the  sea  always  breaks.  The  south  pass  is  the  nar- 
rowest, being  about  1,400  yards  wide ;  it  lies  between  the 
shoal  and  Toombo  reef,  and  being  to  windward,  is  the  bet" 
ter  one  of  the  two.  The  other  pass  lies  between  To  reef 
and  the  shoal ;  it  is  about  1,800  yards  wide,  and  can  be 
taken  in  case  of  a  head  wind  from  westward.  There  are  no 
dangers  in  either  channel.  Dumbea  pass  can  be  used  if  the 
ship  fetch  to  leeward  of  the  Bulari  passages.* 

*  These  instructions  on  the  approach  to  Noumea  are  from  the  work  of 
M.  Bouyuet  de  la  Grye. 


204  FROM  AUSTRALIA   TO   NEW   CALEDONIA. 

In  §  6  the  reader  will  find  indications  on  the  wind-system 
of  this  locality.  Eeference  should  also  be  had  to  §  138  for 
an  account  of  the  gale  experienced  by  the  Morceau  near  Syd- 
ney. The  following  accounts,  furnished  by  Captain  Jouan, 
of  the  Bonite,  contain  much  useful  information.  The  voy- 
ages of  the  Bonite  were  made  prior  to  the  erection  of  the 
light-house  at  N oumea,  in  1865 : 

"The  distance  in  a  straight  line  from  Sydney  to  Noumea 
is  about  1,020  miles.  Half  way  lies  a  group  of  reefs,  be- 
tween 29°  and  32°  S. ;  these  reefs  are  terminated  by  two 
highlands:  Howe  island,  (2,600  feet,)  and  Ball  pyramid,  a 
gigantic  leaning  obelisk,  which,  from  a  distance,  has  the 
appearance  of  a  ship  under  sail.  The  position  of  these  rocks 
is  not  accurately  put  down  on  the  charts,  and  the  existence 
of  some  of  them  is  doubtful.  Vessels  generally  pass  to  the 
southward  of  them  on  the  voyage  from  Sydney  to  Noumea  ; 
and  to  the  northward,  on  the  return  voyage.  I  think  that 
it  is  preferable  to  pass  south  of  them  when  you  leave  Syd- 
ney in  the  winter,  as  the  west  wind  is  then  fresh  on  the 
extra-tropical  coast  of  Australia,  and  carries  a  ship  rapidly 
toward  the  trades.  On  the  other  hand,  after  leaving  Nou- 
mea, I  would  pass  north  of  them,  as  vessels  generally  make 
the  coast  of  Australia  near  Moreton  bay,  where  they  strike 
the  NW.  wind,  and,  if  compelled  to  beat,  have  the  current 
in  their  favor.  In  no  case  would  I  attempt  to  shorten  the 
passage  by  getting  into  the  neighborhood  of  Eliza,  Sering- 
apatam,  Elizabeth,  etc.,  reefs.  The  weather  is  rarely  set- 
tled in  this  locality,  the  group  appearing  to  be  situated  near 
the  limit  of  both  the  New  Caledonian  and  Australian  winds ; 
the  currents  about  it  are  also  strong  and  irregular. 

"  The  portion  of  the  ocean  lying  between  New  Caledonia, 
Australia,  and  New  Zealand — from  152°  to  177°  E.,  and 
from  20°  to  40°  S.— is  about  the  worst  place  in  the  world 
for  variable  and  bad  weather.  The  W.  and  NW.  winds 
blow  a  gale,  on  the  west  coast  of  New  Zealand,  nearly  all 
the  year  round.  In  winter,  from  June  to  September,  the 
wind  on  the  east  coast  of  Australia  is  very  stiff  from  WNW. 
to  WSW.  These  winds  meet  the  regular  trades,  south  of 
New  Caledonia,  at  this  season,  causing  calms,  arid  some- 
times violent  squalls.  In  summer,  from  May  to  October, 
the  wind  is  ordinarily  from  NE.,  and  the  weather  fine  on 
the  Australian  coast;  sometimes  a  hot  wind  blows  from 


FROM   AUSTRALIA   TO    NEW   CALEDONIA.  205 

NW.;  the  weather  is  then  close  and  oppressive,  but  at  the 
end  of  two  or  three  days  the  wind  jumps  around  to  south 
with  heat  lightning.  Keep  a  good  lookout  for  this  shift  of 
wind,  as  it  is  very  rapid  and  may  dismast  your  ship.  While 
this  south  wind  blows  the  sea  is  usually  rough,  and  a  voy- 
age is  rarely  made  through  this  portion  of  the  ocean  with- 
out experiencing  a  gale.  During  the  southern  winter  the 
wind  prevails  from  W.  to  SW.  for  quite  u  distance  off  the 
coast  of  Australia.  At  this  season  quick  passages  are  made 
from  Sydney  to  Noumea;  inversely  the  return  voyage  is 
long.  Sometimes  vessels  are  a  month  going  from  Noumea 
to  Sydney. 

k'A  three  years'  experience  on  the  W.  coast  of  New 
Caledonia  has  convinced  me  that  the  winds  there  are 
prevalent  from  the  westward  during  one-third  of  the  year. 
After  the  fresh  ESE.  winds  have  blown,  in  gusts,  with  a 
few  drops  of  rain,  for  2  or  3  days,  (barometer  29in.80  to 
29in.92,)  the  wind  hauls  to  E.  with  an  overcast  sky;  then  to 
NE.  with  steady  rain,  and  to  N.,  N  W.,  and  W. ;  the  weather 
does  not  become  fine  until  the  wind  has  reached  SW.  and 
SSW.,  and  then  it  very  soon  comes  around  again  to  SE. 
and  ESE.  With  the  NW.  wind  the  weather  is  uncertain ; 
sometimes  close,  calm,  and  extremely  hot,  with  violent 
squalls  at  intervals. 

"On  her  first  voyage  the  Bonite  left  Sydney  on  the  llth 
July,  1860,  and  steered  south,  passing  45  miles  from  Ball 
pyramid.  From  the  13th  to  the  21st  variable  winds  from 
WSW.  to  S.,  weather  very  fine,  barometer  between  30in.16 
and  29in.96.  On  the  21st,  120  miles  SSW.  from  Noumea, 
wind  SE.  to  ESE.,  usual  direction  at  this  season.  The  next 
morning,  about  9  o'clock — after  a  squally  night — saw  the 
reefs  distinctly.  The  mountains  being  enveloped  in  a  heavy 
fog  were  not  sighted  till  long  afterward.  This  coast  is  often 
hidden  by  clouds,  and  it  is  necessary  to  be  careful  while 
steering  for  Bulari  or  Dumbea  passes,  for  if  once  set  to  lee- 
ward it  is  difficult  to  beat  up  against  the  NW.  current. 

uln  a  second  voyage,  the  Bonite  left  Port  Jackson  on 
the  22d  December,  1860,  with  a  good  breeze  from  S.,  (bar. 
29in.S4.)  This  was  followed  by  a  rain-squall  from  the  same 
point,  during  which  the  barometer  stood  at  29in.6S.  The 
wind  then  came  out  strong  from  SSE.  with  a  heavy 
swell;  I  steered  to  pass  to  the  northward  of  Elizabeth, 


206  FROM  AUSTRALIA   TO  NEW   CALEDONIA. 

Middleton,  etc.,  reefs.  At  noon  on  the  25th,  position  of  ship, 
29°  28'  S.,  158°  21'  E.  On  the  28th,  being  180  miles  SW. 
of  Noumea,  experienced  several  thunder-storms;  wind 
variable  and  light  from  IS". ;  thermometer  79°.  On  January 
3d  sighted  land  to  leeward  of  Dumbea  pass.  The  Bonite 
could  not  make  anything  against  the  current,  though  all 
her  sail  was  set.  At  nightfall  weather  looked  very  ugly  j 
barometer  falling  rapidly ;  lay-to  on  the  starboard  tack. 
After  sunset  the  wind  sprung  up  furiously,  raining  in  tor- 
rents, barometer  29in.37 ;  force  of  the  wind  equal  to  that  of 
the  heavy  squalls  of  India.  This  gale  ended  on  the  6th 
January,  after  driving  the  ship  180  miles  from  Noumea. 
After  two  days  of  respite  had  another  lighter  gale.  We 
did  not  reach  our  anchorage  until  the  llth  January. 

"Third  voyage.  The  Bonite  left  Sydney  on  the  26th 
March,  1862.  Found  a  light  breeze  from  ENE.  to  NNE.r 
and  good  weather  outside.  I  tried  for  some  time  to  make 
to  the  southward,  but  a  squall  from  SSE.  made  me  give  up 
the  idea.  At  sundown  on  the  6th  April,  sighted  New  Cale- 
donia, very  far  off.  During  the  night  the  wind  shifted  to 
NW.,  W.,  and  WSW.  Ean  for  land  under  all  plain  sail ; 
very  stiff  breeze,  weather  overcast.  At  3.30  p.  in.  made  the 
reefs;  no  land  in  sight  all  day.  A  short  time  after  they 
showed  up  plainly,  and  we  found  that  we  were  in  a  kind  of 
gulf,  formed  by  the  reef  S.  of  Bulari  pass.  Not  being  able 
to  double  these  reefs,  took  the  south  tack,  in  order  to  give 
them  a  wide  berth ;  sky  overcast  in  the  west ;  a  bad  appear- 
ance. Violent  squalls  and  very  heavy  sea  during  the  night. 
The  weather  being  more  moderate  and  the  wind  from  ESE.r 
on  the  10th,  we  succeeded  in  entering.  Fifteen  days  at  sea. 

"In  a  fourth  voyage,  made  in  11  days,  (August  and  Sep- 
tember,) the  Bonite  took  the  southerly  route.  The  weather 
was  nearly  always  fine,  except  on  the  26th,  150  miles  from 
Noumea,  where  we  had  a  very  strong  breeze  and  heavy  sea 
from  E.  For  several  days  the  barometer  stood  between 
30in.20  and  30in.23.» 

The  following  quotation  is  from  the  log  of  the  sailing- 
frigate  Isis,  Binet,  (vol.  28,  Ann.  Hydr.  :) 

"Left  Sydney  (in  April)  with  a  light  breeze  from  SSE. 
Next  day  a  light  breeze  and  calm.  Afterward  experienced 
a  day's  NW.  to  SW.  winds.  The  SE.  wind  then  began  to- 
prevail,  blowing  light  and  gentle  from  ESE.  to  E. 


FROM  AUSTRALIA  TO  SANDWICH  ISLANDS.  207 

§  112.  ROUTE  FROM  AUSTRALIA  TO  NEW  ZEALAND.— 
Vessels  bound  to  Otago  harbor  should  pass  through 
Foveaux  strait,  (vide  §  107.)  Those  bound  to  Port  Nichol- 
son should  take  Cook  strait,  (vide  §  107.)  Those  destined 
for  Auckland  or  the  bay  of  Islands,  should  double  cape 
Otou  (north)  and  pass  N.  of  New  Zealand. 

Leaving  Sydney  from  the  beginning  of  September  to  the  end 
of  April,  and  bound  to  Auckland  or  the  bay  of  Islands,  first 
head  SE.  and  then  keep  S.  of  the  35th  parallel  until  the 
ship  is  in  the  neighborhood  of  170°  E.,  when  commence  to 
bear  to  the  NE.  By  steering  in  this  manner  a  vessel  will 
meet  fewer  head  winds,  as  they  blow  from  the  east  quite 
frequently  north  of  35°  S.  during  the  southern  summer. 
When  bound  out  of  Sydney,  from  May  to  the  end  of 
August,  a  more  direct  route  can  be  taken. 

Vessels  leaving  Melbourne  or  Port  Adelaide  should  begin 
the  voyage  by  passing  through  Bass'  strait,  or  going  S.  of 
Tasmania,  as  described  in  §  107. 

§  113.  EOUTE  FROM  AUSTRALIA  TO  TAHITI  AND  THE  ,  lat.rro  Tahiti, 

from  May  to  Au- 

SANDWICH  ISLANDS. — A  ship  leaving  Sydney,  from  May  to  gust. 
August,  can  pass  north  of  New  Zealand,  thence  south  of 
the  Kermadec  islands,  and  then  make  her  easting  south  of 
30°  S.,  crossing  that  parallel  between  the  meridians  of  158° 
and  153°  W.  She  can  generally  run  between  Vavitao  and 
Tabuai. 

Cook  strait  is  to  be  preferred  at  this  season,  (vide  §  107    From  the  be- 
for  the  passage  through  this  strait.)     After  leaving  the  femnbT?to°the enpa 
strait  run  down  the  easting,  doubling  Chatham  islands  to°f 
the  northward,  and  crossing  30°  S.  near  the  meridian  of 
Rapa  island.     During  the  first  season  a  ship  can  generally 
pass  to  the  westward  of  Moorea,  and  then  go  about  for 
Papiete.    During  the  other  season  make  Tahiti  from  the 
eastward,  and  pass  between  Anaa  and  Maitea  islands,  as 
stated  in  §  93. 

Vessels  starting  from  Melbourne  or  Port  Adelaide  can 
either  go  south  of  Australia  or  through  Bass  strait, 
according  to  circumstances,  (vide  §§  107  and  110.)  If  they 
take  the  latter  route,  Foveaux  strait  can  be  used,  (vide 
§  107,)  though  we  think  that  the  passage  between  the 
Snares  and  Auckland  islands  will  be  preferable  in  either 
case.  The  parallel  of  40°  S.  should  always  be  crossed 
between  158°  and  153°  W. ;  and  that  of  30°  S.  between 


208  FROM   SINGAPORE   TO   THE  MOLUCCA  ISLANDS. 

153°  and  143°  W.    Cross  both  40°  and  30°  S.  farther  to  the 
west  in  June  and  July  than  in  December  and  January. 

For  instructions  concerning  the  first  part  of  this  passage 
vide     110. 


1  -1!6  ^rom  Sydney  go  through  Cook  strait,  (vide  §  107.)  From 
auds.  '  s  "Melbourne  and  Port  Adelaide  pass  between  the  Snares  and 
Auckland.  Always  cross  40°  S.  near  143°  W.  Thence 
pass  near,  and  a  little  to  the  westward  of  Pitcairn  and 
Oeno  islands.  Cross  the  line  in  the  neighborhood  of  133° 
W.,  and  finish  the  voyage  as  described  in  §  95. 

^st.  During  the       §    114.    EOUTE    FROM     SINGAPORE     TO  .  THE     MOLUCCA 

monsoons.  '  ISLANDS.  —  A  ship  bound  from  Singapore  to  the  Moluccas, 
from  May  to  September,  will  find  the  SE.  monsoon  south  of 
the  equator,  and  the  SW.  monsoon  north  of  it.  She  should, 
at  this  season,  run  south  of  the  Anambas  and  Great 
Natuna,  thence  between  Charlotte  and  Louisa  reefs,  being 
careful  to  give  Friendship  and  north  Luconia  shoals  a  good 
berth.  The  north  points  of  Balambangan  and  Banguey  can 
be  passed  close  aboard  and  the  exit  made  through  Balabac 
strait;  thence  pass  through  the  Sulu  group,  double  the  N. 
point  of  Celebes,  and  make  south  through  Molucca  passage. 
strait.  Balabac  strait  has  three  channels  :  the  two  near  Balabac 
are  narrow  and  rarely  used;  the  southern  one  near  Banguey 
is  the  best.  Approached  from  the  west,  the  high  mountain 
of  Kinibalu  in  Borneo  is  a  good  mark;  its  position  is  lat. 
C°  5'  N.,  long.  116°  40'  E.  There  is  also  a  conical  peak  on 
the  NW.  coast  of  Bauguey  island  close  to  the  shore  ;  it  can 
be  seen  for  40  or  50  miles;  and  is  situated  in  lat.  7°  19'  ST., 
long.  117°  06'  E.  If  short  of  water  run  south  of  Balam- 
bangan and  anchor  about  a  mile  and  a  half  from  shore, 
when  the  peak  on  Banguey  bears  NETE.  Good  water  will 
be  found  in  a  small  river  bearing  E.  A  launch  can  cross 
the  bar,  but  the  crew  should  be  armed. 

Approaching  the  southern  (and  best)  channel  of  Balabac 
strait  from  the  west,  guard  against  being  set  too  far  to  lee- 
ward, during  the  season  of  the  SW.  monsoon.  Fifty  or 
sixty  fathoms  of  water  will  be  found  about  35  miles  off  the 
west  coast  of  Balambaugau  ;  and  the  north  coast  can  be 
approached  to  within  5  miles.  Steering  E.  by  K,  5  or  C 
miles  off  the  north  coast  of  Banguey,  a  ship  will  sight  the 
Mangsee  islands,  bearing  ENE.  She  should  keep  on  the 
Banguey  side  of  the  channel,  and  thus  avoid  the  reef 


FROM  SINGAPORE   TO   THE  MOLUCCAS.  209 

which  extends  for  9  miles  west  of  the  Mangsee  group ;  the 
position  of  this  reef  may  be  recognized  by  the  green  color 
of  the  water  over  it.  The  soundings  will  show  a  coral 
bottom  at  7,  14,  and  17  fathoms;  3  or  4  miles  from  the 
coast  of  Banguey  the  depth  is  about  6  fathoms.  When 
bound  east,  and  the  Mangsee  islands  bear  NNE.,  a  small 
sand-bank,  surrounded  by  reefs,  will  be  sighted,  bearing 
ESE. ;  pass  at  least  3  miles  to  north  of  this,  where  over  8 
fathoms  of  water  will  be  found. 

Do  not  head  to  the  southward  of  ESE.  J  E.  after  leaving 
Balabac  strait,  until  the  soundings  show  from  7  to  8 
fathoms ;  then  stand  for  the  south  coast  of  Cagayan  Sulu ; 
thence  steer  so  as  to  pass  close  to  the  south  coast  of 
Pangutaran,  and  through  the  channel  between  this  island 
and  Obian. 

No  soundings  will  be  found  on  approaching  this  channel 
from  the  TF.,  and  vessels  should  keep  well  to  the  S.  during 
the  SW.  monsoon,  as  the  current  near  the  W.  coast  of  these 
islands  sets  rapidly  to  IN".  On  nearing  the  south  point  of 
Pangutaran  island,  keep  it  bearing  to  the  N.  of  E.,  and  run 
close  to  the  island  until  through  the  channel,  and  thus 
allow  for  any  drift. 

Sulu  anchorage  is  33  miles  ESE.  of  the  southern  extrem- 
ity of  Pangutaran. 

In  all  cases  double  the  W.  point  of  Sulu  by  leaving  it  to 
the  northward,  and  pass  south  of  Pata  and  the  adjacent 
islets.  On  the  contrary,  run  to  the  northward  of  Tapul, 
Taluk,  and  Kabinguan  islands.  Tapul  is  high;  the  two 
others  low.  The  ship  will  be  on  soundings  nearly  the  whole 
time  in  this  neighborhood,  and  can  anchor  if  the  currents 
should  prove  violent,  or  beat  up  during  the  night  in  clear 
weather. 

Once  clear  of  the  Sulu  islands,  head  for  the  north  point/ 
of  Celebes  and  Molucca  passage. 

The  SE.  monsoon  prevails  in  this  passage  prior  to  the 
month  of  October,  and  the  NW.  monsoon  in  November.  In 
the  first  case  the  track,  after  leaving  the  north  point  of 
Celebes,  passes  near  and  to  southward  of  the  Tifore  islands, 
thus  striking  the  SE.  monsoon  well  to  the  east.  After  the 
month  of  October  steer  from  the  north  point  of  Celebes 
straight  for  Buru  and  Amboina. 
14  N 


210  FHOM  SINGAPORE   TO  THE  MOLUCCAS. 

NEd'  ?nd  nNW6     ^n  ^ne  PassaSe  fr°m  Singapore  to  the  Moluccas,  from 
monsoons.          October  to  May,  the  KE.  monsooos  will  be  struck  north,  and 
the  NW.  monsoons  south,  of  the  equator.    At  this  season 
the  passage  should  be  made  through  Carimata  strait. 

After  leaving  Pedra-Branca,  run  for  27  or  30  miles  on  an 
E.  by  S.  course,  if  the  wind  permit ;  then  24  or  27  miles 
ESE.,  in  order  to  get  well  clear  of  the  Geldria  and  Fred- 
erick banks ;  thence  steer  to  leave  Saint-Barbe  on  the  north, 
and  run  for  Soruetou.  If  the  wind  come  out  from  W.  or 
SW.,  Biliton  can  be  doubled  to  the  northward  5  thence  pass 
south  of  Ontario  reef  and  around  the  Montaran  islands. 

The  best  route  through  Carimata  strait,  especially  in  over- 
cast weather,  when  coming  from  the  N  W.,  is  to  pass  to  the  E. 
of  Ontario  reef.  Vessels  should  keep  from  30  to  45  miles  from 
Soruetou  and  steer  SSE.,  when  the  W.  point  bears  at  least 
3°  to  west  of  N.,  and  thus  give  Ontario  reef  a  wide  berth. 
After  keeping  the  point  on  this  bearing  until  well  clear  of 
the  reef,  steer  so  as  to  pass  about  20  or  30  miles  from  Bor- 
neo. The  depths  along  this  coast  will  vary  from  14  to  17 
fathoms,  increasing  sometimes  near  the  banks.  South  of 
Rendezvous*  the  depth  of  water  is  from  19  to  21  fathoms 
until  within  30  or  33  miles  SW.  of  Pulo-Mankap,  nor  should 
you  approach  any  closer  than  this  distance  with  a  large  ves- 
sel. If  uncertain  of  the  longitude,  it  would  be  well  to  sight 
Borneo,  if  possible,  and  then  head  SW.,  after  doubling 
Rendezvous  island,  thus  clearing  Mankap  banks. 

In  clear  weather  vessels  can  also  go  to  the  westward  of 
Ontario  reef.  It  will  then  be  necessary  to  double  Soruetou 
at  a  distance  of  15  or  18  miles,  and  to  head  SE.  by  S.,  or 
SSE.  when  that  island  bears  NE.  If  it  be  not  advisable 
to  round  the  bank,  the  west  point  of  Soruetou  should  be 
brought  to  bear  to  the  east  of  N.  8^  E.  Steer  in  this  way 
until  25  miles  south  of  the  island,  when  the  west  point  will 
be  on  the  horizon,  and  will  bear  K.  by  E.  By  keeping  on 
the  same  course  a  vessel  will  sight  Montarau  islands,  and 
pass  15  or  18  miles  to  eastward  of  them ;  thence  steer  SS. 
by  S.,  and  leave  Cirencester  and  Discovery  banks  on  the 
west,  and  the  reefs  SSW.  of  Pulo-Mankap,  on  the  east. 
Alongside  of  these  banks  do  not  run  into  less  than  15  or 
16  fathoms,  nor  into  more  than  20  fathoms  near  the  banks 
on  the  west  coast.  The  soundings  are  very  irregular. 

*  Sometimes  called  Kumpal  island,  (lat.  2°  44'  30"  &) 


FROM  SINGAPORE  TO  THE  MOLUCCAS.  211 

After  running  out  of  Carimata  strait,  head  so  as  to  pass 
about  10  miles  south  of  Great  Soloinbo ;  thence  make  your 
easting  of  150  miles  between  the  parallels  of  5°  36',  and  5° 
50'.  S.  A  ship  can  run  over  Laars  shoal  (5°  43'  S.)  if  sure 
of  her  latitude ;  if  not,  she  should  run  farther  south,  and 
not  double  Brill  (TaJca-romata)  shoal  in  the  night-time,  as 
the  currents  are  very  strong  and  irregular.  If  running  east 
on  5°  43'  S.,  the  Tonyn  islands  will  be  sighted  from  the 
masthead  in  clear  weather;  they  are  situated  near  Brill 
shoal.  Continue  to  tlie  eastward  after  doubling  the  Tonyn 
islands,  and  sighting  Tanakeke,  pass  it  at  a  distance  of  12 
or  15  miles. 

When  the  wind  is  SW.  during  the  day  and  the  weather 
dear,  head  for  Salayer  strait,  passing  south  of  Mansfield 
bank.  If  Bonthein  mountain  be  visible,  steer  straight  for 
Middle  island,  when  the  peak  bears  between  N.  by  W.  \  W. 
and  .N.  by  W.;  and  then  pass  between  this  island  and  the 
one  to  the  south. 

During  the  night,  the  ivind  being  uncertain  and  the  iceather 
overcast,  the  best  plan  is  to  pass  inside  of  Mansfield  bank 
and  along  the  coast  of  Celebes.  The  soundings  here  extend 
from  6  to  9  miles  off  the  coast,  and  a  ship  can  anchor  if 
necessary.  On  this  route  keep  from  4  to  C  miles  off  the 
Celebes  coast,  until  Bonthein  mountain  bears  N.  by  W.  J  W. 
After  doubling  Mansfield  bank  to  the  north,  keep  12  or  15 
miles  off  the  coast.  As  soon  as  Middle  island  is  sighted, 
keep  well  out  to  sea  until  it  bears  E.  by  N.,  thus  avoiding 
Amboina  bank;  thence  steer  between  Middle  and  South 
islands. 

Once  clear  of  Salayer  strait,  Amboina  and  the  Banda 
islands  are  easily  reached  by  passing  successively  to  south 
of  Hegadis,  Groenwout,  and  Binonko  islands.  But  vessels 
bound  through  Pitts  passage,  from  October  to  May,  should  run 
around  the  S.  point  of  Buton,  and  skirt  along  the  shore 
until  they  reach  the  E.  point,  passing  to  the  west  of  the 
Wangi-Wangi  islands.  They  should  then  bear  north  for 
Weywongy  island,  and  thence  run  for  the  S.  point  of  Xulla- 
Bessi ;  the  currents  in  this  locality  set  to  the  south  and  are 
very  strong.  If  drifted  to  leeward  of  the  K  point  of  Buru, 
they  should  pass  to  the  southward  and  eastward  of  this 
island,  between  Buru  and  Manipa. 


212  FROM  SINGAPORE   TO  TORRES  STRAIT. 

NE8t  ?nlainf  we     §  115<  EouTE  FROM  SINGAPORE  TO  TORRES  STRAIT.— 


monsoons. 


The  NE.  and  EW.  monsoons  blow  from  October  to  April  ; 
but  sailing-vessels  should  not  leave  Singapore  for  Torres 
strait  until  November,  and  then  invariably  pass  through 
Carimata  strait,  as  stated  in  §  114;  thence  they  will  have  a 
choice  of  two  routes  through  the  Java  sea  :  The  first,  the 
southerly  route,  especially  adapted  to  sailing-vessels;  the 
other,  the  northerly  route,  more  advantageous  for  steamers 
and  auxiliary-steam  vessels. 

The  -outheriy      ^    soutjierly    route  tlirowjli    Java  sea.—  After  leaving 
route.  Carimata  strait,  steer  for  Baean  island,  and  pass  it  to  the 

northward  and  eastward.  According  to  Captain  MacKen- 
zie,  a  ship  near  Bawean  at  night  should  run  for  Giliang  (or 
Pondi)  island,  a  little  to  the  eastward  of  Madura,  and  after- 
ward cross  Saposdie  strait  between  Giliang  and  Sapcedie.* 
If,  on  the  other  hand,  she  should  lose  sight  of  Bawean  be- 
fore nightfall,  she  can  run  for  Kangeang  island,  and  pass  it 
to  the  south  and  between  it  and  the  islet  of  Urk  ;  thence 
the  route  is  north  of  Lombok,  and  the  course  SE.  Jor  8°  S. 
Keep  on  this  parallel,  as  it  is  free  from  all  dangers,  until 
north  of  Ombay  strait,  when  run  between  Oinbay  and  Kam- 
bing,  or  between  Kambing  and  Babi,  and  afterward  be- 
tween Wetta  and  Timor,  and  between  Kissa  and  the  KE. 
point  of  Timor;  this  latter  passage  is  18  miles  from  the 
Timor  coast.  Once  clear  of  the  Java  sea,  run  straight 
through  the  sea  of  Arafura  for  Torres  strait.  If  deemed 
advisable  the  high  and  wooded  islands  of  Karimon-Java 
can  be  passed  10  or  12  miles  to  the  northward,  and  after 
running  south  of  Hastings  rock,  the  route  already  given 
may  be  rejoined  in  passing  between  Kangeang  and  Urk. 

The  best  and  safest  route  is  that  which  passes  south  of 
the  chain  of  islands  lying  east  of  Lombok.  To  follow  it  a 
ship  should  conform  to  the  preceding  instructions  relating 
to  the  manner  of  reaching  the  passage  between  Kangeang 
and  Urk,  or  to  those  referring  to  the  passage  between  Pondi 
and  Giliang,  and  afterward  run  for  Lombok  or  Alias  strait. 

Horsburgh  states  that  the  northerly  currents  in  Lombok 
strait  will  lengthen  the  voyage,  and  that  Alias  is  the  best 
strait  for  vessels  coming  from  Carimata  during  the  NW. 
monsoon. 

Babi  strait  is  never  advisable.    After  leaving  Alias  or 

*  Sometimes  called  Galioen,  or  Ecspondi  island. 


FROM  SINGAPORE  TO  THE  WESTERN  COAST  OF  AMERICA*       213 

Lombok  straits  run  about  SE.  by  E.  for  150  or  200  miles, 
then  200  more  E.  by  S.,  changing  the  course  if  necessary  to 
pass  south  of  Damo  island.  This  island  is  situated  to  the 
southward  of  Eotti.  Coal  may  be  obtained  at  Kupang,  but 
the  anchorage  there  is  not  very  safe  during  the  west  mon- 
soon. Steer  east  from  Damo,  and  thus  run  a  few  miles 
north  of  Echo  bank,  over  which  there  are  hardly  12  fathoms 
of  water.  After  a  run  of  about  5GO  miles  from  Damo 
island,  cape  Croker  will  be  sighted  to  the  southward.  After 
passing  about  twenty  miles  from  capes  Croker  and  Wessel, 
head  for  the  Wallis  islands  if  bound  through  Endeavor 
strait,  or  for  Booby  island  if  making  for  Prince  of  Wales 
channel. 

The  northerly  route  through  the  Java  sea. — Some  authors  The  northerly 
recommend  the  route  through  Saiayer  strait  during  the  sea- 
son of  the  NW.  monsoon,  (vide  §  114,  2d  part.)  This  is  a 
good  route  for  auxiliary-steam-vessels  and  steamers,  but 
we  think  that  the  passage  through  the  south  of  the  Java 
sea  will  be  a  better  one  for  sailing-vessels.  A  ship  taking 
the  route  through  Saiayer  strait  should  steer  east  until  the 
peak  of  Kambyna  bears  JSTW.,  then  run  SE.  by  E.  for  Om- 
bay  strait.  She  can  pass  between  Ombay  and  Kambing,  or 
between  Kainbing  and  Babi ;  thence  between  Kissa  and  the 
NE.  point  of  Timor,  and  run  for  Torres  strait. 

At  this  season,  (from  May  to  September,)  only  steamers  ad.  During  the 
can  make  the  passage  from.  Singapore  to  Torres  strait,  monsoons. 
They  should  take  the  route  through  the  south  of  the  Java 
sea,  as  given  above.  They  should  keep  to  northward  of  the 
islands,  on  the  parallel  of  8°  S.,  until  they  are  N.  of  Ombay 
strait;  and  then  pass  between  Ombay  and  Kambing,  or 
between  Kambing  and  Babi,  and  thence  as  already  stated. 
Coal  can  be  obtained  at  Kupang,  where  the  anchorage  is 
good  at  this  season.  Kupaug  can  be  approached  from  the 
north  through  Ombay  strait,  or  more  directly  through  Alloo 
or  Pantar  straits. 

§  116.  EOUTE  FROM  SINGAPORE  TO  THE  WESTERN  COAST 
OF  AMERICA. — At  this  season  (from  October  to  May,)  the  monsoons. 
passage  may  be  made  in  two  ways,  either  by  the  easterly 
routes,  or  by  taking  the  route  south  of  Australia. 

The  easterly  routes  are  two  :  first,  that  by  the  N.  of  New 
Guinea,  described  in  §  175 ;  second,  that  by  Torres  strait, 


214      FROM  SINGAPORE  TO   THE  WESTERN  COAST   OF  AMERICA. 

(vide  §§  115  and  175.)    For  information  concerning  the  route 
south  of  Australia,  vide  §  176. 

In  a  good  vessel,  the  passage  south  of  Australia  will 
of  Australia,  probably  be  quicker  and  safer.  If  this  route  be  decided 
upon,  follow  the  directions  given  in  §  176,  and  keep  a  clean 
full  through  the  SE.  trades  of  the  Indian  ocean;  thence 
make  south  for  the  steady  west  winds ;  these  once  found 
head  SE.  for  the  parallel  on  which  you  intend  to  run  down 
the  easting ;  this  parallel  should  be  between  46°  and  50°  S. 
at  this  season.  The  track  is  close  to  the  northward  of 
Auckland  island,  and  east  of  New  Zealand  is  the  same  as 
that  given  in  §  107  or  §  110.  Information  concerning  float- 
ing ice  may  be  found  in  §§  43,  104,  and  107. 

Navigators  deciding  to  take  one  of  the  easterly  routes, 

route!   *    eryand  preferring  the  one  by  the  N.  of  New  Guinea,  should 

conform  to  the  instructions  in  §  175,  and  cross  10°  S.  near 

172°  E.,  and  thence  keep  west  of  the  Fiji  group  and  east 

of  New  Zealand. 

Between  45°  and  48°  S.  the  west  winds  prevail,  but  run 

still  farther  south,  say  to  about  50°  S.,  if  bound  to  any  of 

the  ports  of  South  America  or  around  Cape  Horn. 

The   Torres     Vessels  choosing  the  route  through  Torres  strait  should 

ate<       first  head  according  to  the  instructions  given  in  §  115,  then 

run  through  Prince  of  Wales  channel  and  Bligh  passage, 

and  along  the  southern  coasts  of  New  Guinea  and  the  Louis- 

iade  group.    The  winds  in  this  locality  are  generally  from 

W.  to  NW. ;  therefore  southing  and  even  easting  can  be 

made  with  facility. 

Vessels  running  north  of  New  Zealand  will  have  a  quicker 
passage  ;  but  it  will  be  difficult  to  double  cape  Otou  (North) 
at  this  season  unless  advantage  be  taken  of  every  chance 
for  making  to  eastward  as  well  as  to  southward.  If  it  be 
found  impossible  to  double  cape  Otou  run  through  Cook 
strait,  (vide  §§  8  and  107.)  For  information  concerning  the 
latter  part  of  the  voyage,  vide  §  110. 

SEd*  ?ndingswe     At  tllis  season   (from  May  to  October,)  ships  bound  to 

monsoons.    '      cape  Horn  and  the  ports  of  South  America  will  find  it 

greatly  to  their  advantage  to  go  south  of  Australia,  (vide 

§  176,)  but  they  will  encounter  the  severe  weather  of  the 

southern  winter,  and  should  be  well  fitted  out  in  every  way. 

The  prevalent  SE.  winds  will  render  the  passage  difficult 

as  far  as  the  straits  of  Sunda,  but  once  in  the  Indian  ocean 


FROM  SAIGON  TO   THE  WESTERN   COAST  OF  AMERICA.  215 

a  vessel  can  run  across  the  trades  rap-full,  and  probably 
find  the  west  winds  at  30°  or  32°  S.,  and  thence  bear  away 
to  the  SE.  and  run  down  to  50°  or  even  52°  S.  Pass  either 
IN",  or  S.  of  the  Auckland  islands,  and  keep  to  the  eastward 
on  the  same  parallel,  then  make  north  again  as  stated  in 
§  110.  For  information  in  regard  to  floating  ice,  vide  §§  43, 
104,  and  107. 

But  forCalifornian  or  Mexican-bound  ships  the  northerly 
route  is  preferable.  They  should,  on  leaving  Singapore, 
cross  the  China  sea,  as  stated  in  §§  153  and  150,  and  enter 
the  Pacific  near  the  Bashee  group,  if  sailers,  or  through  the 
strait  of  Formosa,  if  steamers;  35°  "N.  should  be  reached 
as  soon  as  possible.  Vessels  taking  the  strait  of  Formosa 
will  be  less  liable  to  meet  typhoons,  or  if  they  should  hap- 
pen to  fall  in  with  one,  there  are  plenty  of  ports  of  refuge. 
(Vide  §§  20,  157,  and  159.) 

By  running  through  the  Bashees,  a  ship  will  be  the  sooner 
out  of  the  dangers  of  the  China  sea,  and  can  take  advan- 
tage of  the  full  force  of  the  Black  current,  or  Kuro  Siwo, 
(vide  §  37.)  Still,  typhoons  are  common  in  this  neighbor- 
hood, especially  in  July  and  August,  and  even  until  Novem- 
ber. The  region  of  west  winds  once  reached,  the  voyage 
should  be  finished  according  to  the  instructions  given  in 
§§  119  and  120.  Most  of  the  easting  can  be  run  down  be- 
tween the  parallels  of  40°  and  45°  N.,  where  both  wind  and 
current  are  generally  favorable. 

We  have  stated  that  vessels  bound  to  South  America 
should  take  the  southerly  route;  but  it  should  be  under- 
stood that  they  can  also  take  the  northerly  route.  After 
meeting  the  west  winds  they  should  run  down  their  easting 
north  of  the  parallel  of  40°  K,  commencing  to  bear  south 
after  passing  158°  W.,  and  the  NE.  trades  should  be  left 
near  118°  \V.  and  between  10°  X.  and  the  equator.  The 
last  part  of  the  track  lies  south  of  the  line,  as  stated  from 
§§  68  to  72. 

§  117.  EOUTE  FROM  SAIGrON  TO  THE  WESTERN  COAST  OF 

AMERICA. — This  route  is  nearly  identical  with  the  preced- 
ing. 

Thus,  if  it  be  decided  to  go  south  of  Australia,  during  the  ^During   the 
season  of  the  NE.  monsoon,  (from  October  to  May,)  run  out™ 
of  the  China  sea   according  to  the  instructions  given  in 
§  151 ;  thence  according  to  §§  176  and  116.    If  one  of  the 


216  FROM  CHINA  TO  VALPARAISO. 

easterly  routes  be  decided  upon,  run  through  Carimata 
strait,  as  stated  in  §  151,  and  then  follow  the  advice  given  in 
§§  115,  116,  and  175. 

During  the  During  the  SW.  monsoon  (from  May  to  October]  staunch 
auxiliary  steamers  bound  to  South  America  will  find  it 
greatly  to  their  advantage  to  go  south  of  Australia.  They 
can  fill  up  with  coal  at  Singapore  and  make  the  first  part 
of  the  voyage  as  described  in  §  170.  They  should  then 
follow  the  route  given  in  §§  116  and  176.  But  auxiliary 
steamers  making  passage  to  the  coast  of  North  America,  and 
all  sailing-vessels  bound  to  any  American  port  on  the  west 
coast,  should  take  the  northerly  route  at  this  season,  and 
pass  through  Formosa  channel  or  the  Bashee  group,  as 
stated  in  §  116. 

NE  mSTsroon  the      §  118<  K°UTE   FKOM    CHINA    TO  VALPARAISO,   CALLAO, 

AND  PANAMA. — Starting  from  Hong  Kong  at  this  season, 
(from  October  to  Hay,}  the  best  and  shortest'  route  is  that 
south  of  Australia.  After  sailin  g  down  the  China  sea,  as 
stated  in  §  151,  follow  the  instructions  given  in  §§  116  and 
176.  If,  however,  the  port  of  departure  be  Shanghai  or 
Yokohama,  the  northerly  route  will  be  the  best.  The  ship 
will  probably  strike  the  west  winds  between  35°  and  40° 
N.,  and  should  finish  the  voyage  as  described  in  the  present 
section,  under  the  head  of  SW.  monsoon, 
ad.  During  the  The  only  practicable  route  at  this  season  (from  Nay  to 

SW.  monsoon 

October)  is  the  northerly  one.  After  leaving  Hong  Kong 
steer  for  the  Bashees  in  a  sailing-vessel,  or  for  Formosa 
channel  in  an  auxiliary  steamer.  Bun  down  the  easting 
near  the  parallel  of  45°  N.,  where  both  the  winds  and  cur- 
rents are  generally  very  favorable,  (vide  §  116.)  The  NE. 
trades  should  be  struck  between  148°  and  143°  W.  5  and 
the  SE.  trade-winds  near  5°  N.  and  between  118°  and  123° 
W.  From  here  shape  the  course  as  stated  in  §§  68  and  72. 

Maury  gives  a  more  westerly  route,  advising  ships  to  run 
into  the  NE.  trades  near  152°  E. ;  to  cross  the  equator  in  the 
neighborhood  of  172°  E.,  and  thence  to  pass  either  east  or 
west  of  New  Zealand.  The  last  part  of  the  voyage  is  easily 
accomplished. 

But  we  think  this  route  hardly  advisable  for  sailing-ves- 
sels, as  several  groups  of  islands  are  in  the  way  j  it  is  also 
difficult  to  double  New  Zealand,  and  there  are  many  dan- 


FROM  CHINA  TO   VALPARAISO.  217 

gers  in  the  route.    An  auxiliary  steamer  can,  of  course, 
steam  around  the  northern  end  of  New  Zealand,  (vide  §  108.) 

Below  is  found  the  main  portion  of  a  letter  addressed  by 
Maury,  in  1854,  to  a  Boston  merchant,  relating  to  the 
proper  route  from  Hong  Kong  to  Valparaiso : 

"  To  reach  Valparaiso  from  Hong  Kong  you  have  to  make 
nearly  180°  of  longitude,  and  the  question  is,  in  which  hemi- 
sphere will  you  run  down  this  easting '?  If  in  the  northern, 
you  will  have,  for  the  sake  of  the  winds,  to  run  to  the  north 
of  your  place  of  departure ;  and,  if  in  the  southern,  you  will, 
for  the  same  reason,  have  to  run  to  the  south  of  your  port. 
But  the  'bravo  west  winds7  of  the  southern  hemisphere  will 
decide  the  question  for  us. 

"  This  point  being  settled,  the  question  is,  will  you  rim 
down  for  those  winds  by  passing  to  the  east  or  the  west  of 
Australia!  Clearly  not  to  the  west,  if  you  take  your  de- 
parture from  Shanghai  or  Japan.  From  Hong  Kong  there 
is  room  for  difference  of  opinion,  and  I  have  not  observa- 
tions enough  on  the  winds  and  currents  of  those  seas  to 
enable  me  to  decide.  The  shortest  distance  from  Canton, 
west  of  Australia,  is  about  500  miles  less  than  it  is  east  of 
New  Zealand,  and  800  miles  less  than  it  is  by  the  south 
side  of  that  island  and  east  of  Australia;  and  the  route 
east  contemplates  your  going  as  far  as  the  variables  of  the 
northern  hemisphere,  say  between  the  parallels  of  30° 
and  35°  N.,  in  order  to  get  far  enough  east  to  clear  Austra- 
lia. The  question  of  going  west  of  Australia  is  debatable 
only  during  the  strength  of  the  NE.  monsoons,  or  from  Oc- 
tober to  March,  inclusive.  During  the  rest  of  the  year  east 
of  New  Zealand  is  the  only  route. 

"  I  recommend  the  western  route  only  in  the  NE.  mon- 
soons and  when  they  do  not  admit  of  a  good  offing  for  the 
eastern  route.  In  December  the  Flying  Cloud  made  the 
run  from  Hong  Kong  to  Java-Head  in  7  days.  When  the 
winds  are  fair  for  such  runs  as  that,  the  western  route  is  the 
passage;  and  the  question  as  to  routes,  like  the  route 
north  or  south  of  Ireland,  from  Liverpool  to  New  York, 
ought  to  be  decided  at  the  moment  of  coming  out  of  port, 
and  finding  how  the  wind  is. 

"Before  I  go  further  in  discussing  routes  I  will  state  the 
shortest  practicable  distance  by  the  several  routes  from 
Hong  Kong  to  Valparaiso  : 


218  FKOM  CHINA  TO  VALPARAISO. 

Miles. 
From  Hoog  Kong  via  strait  of  Sunda  and  south 

of  Australia ' 11,  400 

From  Hong  Kong  via  33°  N.  and  150°  E.,  to  0°  and 

163°  E.,  and  south  of  New  Zealand 12, 200 

From  Hong  Kong  via  33°  N.  and  157°  E.,  to  0°  and 

170°  E.,  and  south  of  New  Zealand 11,  900 

From  Shanghai  via  33°  N.  and  157°  E.,  to  0°  and 

170°  E.,  and  south  of  New  Zealand 11, 100 

From  Shanghai  via  33°  N.  and  150°  E.,  to  0°  and 

1630  E.,  and  south  of  New  Zealand 11,  500 

From  Japan  via  33°  N.  and  150°  E.,  to  0°  and  163° 

E.,  and  south  of  New  Zealand 10,  900 

From  Japan  via  33°  N.  and  157°  E.,  to  0°  and  170° 

E.,  and  south  of  New  Zealand 10,  400 

"  So  you  observe  that  the  route  east  of  Australia  and  south 
of  New  Zealand  is  the  longest,  and  the  route  west  from 
Hong  Kong  is  500  miles  shorter  than  the  route  which  passes 
east  of  New  Zealand,  and  this  is  the  route  which,  I  think, 
experience  will  probably  prove  to  be  the  best  in  the  long 
run ;  certainly  from  Shanghai  and  Japan  it  is  the  best. 

"  I  give  the  preference  to  the  east  side  of  New  Zealand, 
because  better  winds  are  found  along  that  route,  and  which 
will  probably  more  than  make  up  for  the  difference  of  dis- 
tance from  Hong^Kong. 

"I  take  it  that  a  vessel  steering  from  30°  or  35°  N.  in  the 
Pacific,  and  entering  the  NB.  trades  in  April,  will  be  able 
to  make,  with  a  good  '  rap  full,7  a  course  between  SE.  and 
SSE.  to  the  line,  and,  after  crossing  the  line  and  entering 
the  SE.  trades,  she  will  be  able  to  make  a  course  through 
them  with  not  more  than  one  point  westing.  From  the 
equator,  and  between  170°  and  175°,  (west  of  New  Zealand,) 
is  plain  sailing  $*  therefore,  if,  after  turning  to  the  south- 
ward and  eastward  from  30°  N.,  or  whatever  be  the  parallel 
attained,  the  winds  will,  without  pinching,  allow  you  to 
cross  the  line  between  170°  and  175°  E.,  do  so,  and  then  stand 
as  straight  as  the  wind  will  allow  you  for  the  £  brave  west 
winds'  of  the  extra-tropical  south,  shaping  your  course  for 
50°  S.  about  the  meridian  of  140°  W.,  taking  care  not  to 
recross  the  parallel  of  45°  to  the  west  of  90°  W.  If  it  be 
found  practicable  to  accomplish  this  route,  the  distance  will 

*  The  author  thinks  that  ships  should-always  pass  east  of  Now  Zealand. 


FROM  CHINA  TO  MEXICO  AND  CALIFORNIA.  219 

be  about  11,900  miles.  I  am  particular  in  stating  these  dis- 
tances, because  intelligent  navigators,  in  case  they  be 
pinched,  will  have  no  difficulty  in  determining  which  side 
of  New  Zealand  to  pass.  Of  course  it  will  be  understood 
that  there  is  no  virtue  in  the  parallel  of  30°  N.;  I  only  indi- 
cate that  as  the  lowest  parallel  upon  which,  in  the  month 
of  April,  good  westerly  winds  prevail.  Now,  with  all  these 
preliminaries  before  us,  the  instructions  are,  after  getting 
an  offing  from  Hong  Kong,  make  the  best  of  your  way  to 
the  meridian  of  150°  E.,  without  making  any  southing ;  and 
the  nearest  way  to  get  there,  that  is  by  great  circle,  is  to 
reach,  say  the  parallel  of  30°  N.,  long.  137°  E.  So  you  ob- 
serve that  it  is  not  much  out  of  the  way  to  run  up  to  30° 
or  even  35°  N.,  for  the  sake  of  better  winds.  With  a  smart 
ship  a  good  navigator  on  this  route  can  reach  the  line  in  25 
days ;  in  April  it  may  be  done  in  18,  and  perhaps  sooner  in 
other  months ;  it  will  take  him  thence  15  days  to  cross  the 
SE.  trades  and  get  into  the  « brave  west  winds '  of  the  South 
Pacific.  Suppose  he  gets  them  in  48°,  long.  180°,  he  will 
be  into  Valparaiso  in  25  days  more. 

"  So,  tell  your  captain  that  you  expect  him  to  make  the 
passage,  if  he  succeed  in  getting  clear  of  the  Asiatic  coast 
without  delay,  in  about  70  days.  He  ought  to  average 
175  miles  a  day.  Caution  him,  after  he  gets  south  of  the 
SE.  trades,  not  to  be  deceived  by  the  first  spurt  of  westerly 
winds.  He  should  reach  48°  or  50°  before  bearing  away 
for  his  easting." 

§  119.  ROUTE  FROM  CHINA  TO  MEXICO  AND  CALIFOR- 
NIA.— Vessels  always  take  the  northerly  route  from  Hong 
Kong  or  Shanghai  to  the  Mexican  or  Californian  coasts, 
running  to  the  northward  and  eastward  at  first,  as  stated  in 
§§  160  and  163.  Although  the  winds  of  the  SW.  monsoon 
are  favorable,  typhoons  are  to  be  feared,  especially  from 
July  to  November.  After  the  month  of  November,  that  is 
during  the  strength  of  the  NE.  monsoon,  the  difficulty  of 
beating  to  northward  will  be  counterbalanced  by  the  fact 
that  the  weather  is  generally  less  inclement. 

The  region  of  westerly  winds  once  reached,  the  route  fol- 
lows the  arc  of  a  great  circle  as  nearly  as  possible ;  it  runs 
up  as  high  as  48°  N.  from  April  to  October,  and  keeps  be- 
tween 40°  and  45°  N.  from  November  to  March.  Here  both 
wind  and  current  are  favorable. 


220 


FROM  YOKOHAMA  TO  SAN  FRANCISCO. 


Maury  says  :  "  All  vessels  from  China  or  Japan  will  first 
make  for  the  variables,  which  they  will  find  strong  and 
good  from  the  westward,  between  35°  and  40°  N.  in  winter 
and  spring  ;  between  40°  and  45°  in  summer  and  fall. 

"  Vessels  from  China  may  follow  pretty  closely  the  great 
circle  route,  which  crosses  the  meridian  of  180°  in  about  50° 
N.  The  route  in  the  Pacific  is  free  from  icebergs,  and  is 
not  more  foggy  than  that  in  the  Atlantic.  As  to  the  rela- 
tive fury  and  frequency  of  the  gales,  I  cannot  speak." 

The  reader  should  also  refer  to  the  following  paragraph 
for  further  instructions  : 

§  120.  EOUTE  FROM  YOKOHAMA  TO  SAN  FRANCISCO.— 
This  is  an  easy  passage.  The  westerly  winds  will  be  found 
near  40°  S".,  and  the  current  will  be  favorable  for  the  ship 
almost  as  soon  as  she  is  out  of  sight  of  land. 

Vessels  should  follow  a  great  circle  route  as  nearly  as 
possible,  though  it  is  not  advisable  to  pass  48°  N.  in  sum- 
mer, (from  April  to  September,)  nor  44°  and  45°  N.  in  win- 
ter, (from  October  to  March.)  The  onlg  drawback  to  the 
voyage  is  the  fogs  on  the  Californian  coast,  which  are  espe- 
cially common  from  April  to  November.  The  land-fall 
should  generally  be  made  to  the  northward  of  the  destina- 
tion. Reference  should  also  be  had  to  §§  119  and  121.  The 
following  extract  is  from  the  U.  S.  Coast  Survey  Report  for 
1867  :/  lirt*,  s&&+<^£?**^  Aty*^  #*£%&£**&+. 

"  A  vessel  making  the  great  circle  track  to  the  eastward 
would  have  the  great  Japan  stream  in  her  favor  to  about 
43°  N.  and  156°  E.,  or  about  1,440  miles;  then  the  cold 
Behring  sea  current  and  the  end  of  the  Alaska  current  to 
47°  K  and  157°  W.,  or  1,980  miles  ;  finally  to  San  Francisco, 
about  1,860  miles,  passing  through  the  great  bend  of  the 
Japan  stream,  where  so  many  indications  of  land  have  been  re- 
corded, and  where  the  weather  is  almost  invariably  thick  and 
bad  in  summer  and  cold  and  boisterous  in  winter.  On  this 
track  the  summer  winds  would  generally  be  favorable,  and, 
with  good  weather,  it  would  be  altogether  the  desirable  route  ; 
but  with  thick,  foggy  weather  for  nearly  the  whole  of  this 
distance,  undetermined  velocity  and  direction  of  the  cur- 
rents, (except  in  general  terms,)  great  variability  of  climate 
to  passengers  and  cargo,  and  extra  hazard  and  risk  to  life 
and  ship,  some  great  positive  advantage  over  all  th  ese  must 
exist  to  warrant  the  adoption  of  it. 


FEOM  YOKOHAMA  TO   SAN  FRANCISCO.  221 

"The  commercial  advantages  of  the  steam  route  to  China, 
through  the  warmer  and  more  equable  latitudes,  must  al- 
ways outweigh  any  merely  theoretical  and  shorter  but  more 
hazardous  route.  A  study  of  the  currents,  winds,  and 
weather,  on  the  lower  latitude  route,  will  lead  to  the  con- 
clusion that  is  being  solved  practically.  From  the  south 
end  of  Japan  to  San  Francisco,  a  course  very  little  north 
of  a  direct  line  on  a  Mercator  projection  carries  a  vessel 
across  the  great  Japan  stream,  in  part  through  the  axis  of 
the  main  branch  flowing  eastward,  across  the  northern  part 
of  Flieureus  whirlpool,  and  across  the  California  stream, 
with  favorable  or  light  winds  the  greater  part  of  the  dis- 
tance." 


CHAPTER  VI. 

ROUTES  FROM  THE  PORTS  OF  OCEANIA. 

§  121.  ROUTE  FROM  THE  SANDWICH  ISLANDS  TO  SAN 
FRANCISCO. — A  ship  starting  from  the  Sandwich  islands 
should  run  north  on  the  starboard  tack  for  the  westerly 
winds  and  then  make  her  easting,  approaching  her  port 
from  the  northward.  From  July  to  September  she  may 
have  to  run  as  high  as  44°  or  45°  K,  for  the  west  wind, 
though  they  may  be  struck  during  the  rest  of  the  year, 
especially  in  winter,  even  before  the  parallel  of  San  Francis- 
co is  reached.  Fogs  are  very  frequent  on  the  coast  of  Cali- 
fornia throughout  the  year,  and  especially  from  April  to 
November. 

Captain  Wood  gives  the  following  instructions : 

"  The  passages  from  the  Sandwich  islands  to  any  part  of 
the  NW.  coast  of  America  are  made  by  standing  to  the 
northward  till  the  westerly  winds  are  reached,  when  the 
run  into  the  coast  is  easily  made,  taking  care,  however,  if 
bound  to  a  port  to  the  southward  of  you,  not  to  bear  up  till 
well  in  with  the  land,  when  northwesterly  winds  will  be 
found  to  carry  you  down  to  the  southward. 

"  On  this  coast,  as  a  general  rule,  the  land  should  be 
made  to  the  northward  of  the  port  you  are  bound  to,  as  in 
almost  all  cases  the  wind  and  current  prevail  from  the 
northward  from  Vancouver  island  to  cape  Corrientes  of 
Mexico. 

"  Though  lying  between  the  parallels  of  19°  and  23°  K, 
the  Sandwich  islands  are  often  visited  during  the  winter 
months  with  strong  breezes  and  gales  from  S.  and  SW.,  but 
for  the  rest  of  the  year  the  trade- wind  blows  pretty  stead- 
ily." 

Maurtfs  observations  on  this  route. — "  From  the  f  Islands ' 
to  San  Francisco,  the  course  is  to  the  northward  ;  so  steer 
with  a  rap-full,  and,  as  the  winds  will  let  you,  lay  up  till 
they  are  found  to  be  fair.  The  navigator,  as  a  rule,  will 


FROM  THE  SANDWICH  ISLANDS  TO  PANAMA.  223 

always  have  to  go  to  the  northward  of  San  Francisco  to  be 
sure  of  good  winds,  which  are  frequently  found  near  the 
parallel  of  38°  ;  but  sometimes,  as  from  July  to  September, 
inclusive,  as  far  as  45°  X. 

"  The  islands,  such  as  the  Society  and  Sandwich,  that 
stand  far  away  from  any  large  extent  of  land,  have  a  very 
singular  but  marked  effect  upon  the  wind.  They  interfere 
with  the  trades  very  often,  and  turn  them  back ;  for  west- 
erly and  equatorial  winds  are  common  at  both  these  groups, 
in  their  winter  time.  Some  hydrographers  have  taken  those 
westerly  winds  of  the  Society  islands  to  be  an  extension  of 
the  monsoons  of  the  Indian  ocean.  Not  so ;  they  are  local, 
and  do  not  extend  a  great  way  either  from  the  Sandwich  or 
Society  islands. 

"  These  winds  at  the  Sandwich  islands  often  come  from 
the  south  as  well  as  the  west ;  and  on  such  occasions  they 
afford  vessels  bound  for  any  of  the  Pacific  ports  of  North 
America  a  fine  opportunity  of  running  to  the  northward, 
clearing  the  NE.  trades,  and  getting  the  westerly  winds  of 
the  variables  beyond." 

The  following  passages  were  made  by  Captain  Paty, 
who  has  been  running  constantly  on  this  route  ever  since 
1837: 

u  From  Honolulu  to  San  Francisco. 

Clipper-brig  Zoe,  October  and  November,  1853 ...  14  days. 

Clipper-brig  Zoe,  January,  1854 13  days. 

Clipper-schooner  Eestless,  April,  1854 13  days. 

Clipper-schooner  Eestless,  May  and  June,  1854 ...  16  days. 
Clipper-schooner  Eestless,  July  and  August,  1854.  21  days. 
Clipper  Francis  Palmer,  February,  1855 11  days. 

"This  last  is  the  shortest  ever  made.  The  St.  Mary's, 
Captain  Bailey,  made  the  next  quickest  passage,  leaving 
Honolulu  at  the  same  time. 

"  The  track  up  (from  Honolulu)  requires  the  most  skill  in 
navigating  5  the  track  down  is  pretty  generally  understood. 
The  average  of  passages  from  Honolulu  to  San  Francisco  is, 
in  length,  to  the  passage  down,  as  6  to  5.  Therefore,  ten  days 
down  is  no  better  than  twelve  days  up,  and  vice  versa." 

§  122.  EOUTE  FROM  THE  SANDWICH  ISLANDS  TO  PAN- 
AMA.—The  first  part  of  the  route  is  the  same  as  that  described 
for  San  Francisco  in  §  121.  Vessels  should  not  bear  south 


224  FROM  THE  SANDWICH  ISLANDS  TO  VALPARAISO.. 

until  they  have  passed  beyond  the  meridian  of  138°  W. ; 
this  will  bring  them  into  the  NE.  trades  near  133°  W.  The 
voyage  should  be  finished  as  described  in  §  68. 

§  123.  BOUTE  FROM  THE  SANDWICH  ISLANDS  TO  VAL- 
PARAISO AND  CALLAO.— After  leaving  the  Sandwich  islands 
keep  a  clean  full,  on  the  port  tack,  through  the  NE.  trades, 
and  run  out  of  them  in  the  neighborhood  of  148°  W.  A 
vessel  will  strike  the  SE.  trades  somewhere  between  10°  N. 
and  the  equator,  (near  10°  between  June  and  September, 
and  near  the  line  between  December  and  March  5)  after 
crossing  them  a  trifle  free  and  passing  to  the  west  of  the  Paum- 
otas,  the  west  winds  will  be  found  either  at  30°,  35°,  40°,  or 
even  45°  S.,  according  to  the  season,  as  these  winds  reach 
lower  latitudes  when  the  sun  is  in  the  southern  hemisphere ; 
thence  the  run  to  the  eastward  is  easily  made.  Do  not 
stand  to  the  northward,  or  for  the  SE.  trades,  until  the  port 
of  destination  bears  to  the  north  of  NE.  The  landfall  should 
be  made  to  the  southward  of  your  port,  except  at  Valparaiso, 
during  the  bad  season.  (Vide  §§  21,  69  to  71,  and  110.) 

James  Wood's  instructions. — "  In  making  a  passage  from 
the  Sandwich  islands  to  the  coast  of  Chile  or  Peru,  the  best 
way  is  to  stand  across  the  trade  as  near  the  wind  as  the  top- 
mast studding-sail  will  stand.  This,  as  the  direction  of  the 
wind  is  in  general  from  EKE.  to  E.,  will  enable  you  to  make 
Tahiti,  and  pass  the  Society  islands  by  one  of  the  clear 
channels  to  westward  of  them.  It  is  of  little  use  trying  to 
fetch  to  the  eastward  of  these,  as  not  only  do  you  lose  much 
time  by  hugging  the  wind  too  close,  but  also  the  strong  cur- 
rent, which  sets  to  the  westward  from  20  to  40  miles  per  day, 
is  pretty  sure  to  drift  you  that  much  to  leeward ;  and  even 
if  this  were  not  the  case,  so  difficult,  tedious,  and  dangerous 
is  the  navigation  among  the  archipelago  of  low  coral  islands 
w.hich  lie  to  the  eastward,  that,  unless  you  can  weather  the 
Marquesas  altogether,  it  is  better  even  to  bear  up  than  to 
entangle  yourself  in  such  a  labyrinth.  After  passing  the 
Society  islands  stand  to  the  southward,  till  on  or  about 
the  30th  parallel,  when  the  westerly  winds  will  be  found. 
These  will  carry  you  into  the  coast,  care  being  taken  not 
to  bear  up  when  within  the  influence  of  the  southerly  winds 
till  near  enough  to  the  land  to  insure  keeping  them  down 
to  your  port." 


FROM   SANDWICH   ISLANDS   TO   AUSTRALIA.  225 

§  124.  KOUTE   FROM    THE    SANDWICH    ISLANDS    TO    Eu- 

ROPE. — The  first  part  of  the  passage  is  identical  with  that 
described  in  §  123.  The  west  winds  will  generally  be  found 
near  35°  or  40°  S. ;  cross  these  parallels  near  158°  \V.,  or 
more  to  the  eastward  if  the  trades  allow.  Thence  run  to 
the  southward  and  eastward  as  much  as  possible,  so  as  to 
put  your  ship  between  47°  and  50°  S.  from  October  to  April, 
and  between  48°  and  52°  S.  from  April  to  October.  Then 
run  east  until  near  98°,  or  rather  93°  W.,  and  cross  the  par- 
allel of  the  Diego-Eamirez  islands  in  the  neighborhood  of 
7G°  W.  This  route  is  quite  free  from  ice. 

It  should  be  understood,  however,  that  a  ship  in  great  haste 
need  not  make  such  a  detour  as  that  above  stated ;  but  steer 
so  as  to  reach  the  parallel  of  cape  Horn  at  about  98°  W.  But 
the  danger  from  meeting  icebergs  will  be  great  on  this 
route,  and  will  necessitate  a  sharp  lookout,  (vide  §  43.) 

The  voyage  will  end  as  described  in  §  107. 

§  125.   ROUTE    FROM    THE    SANDWICH  ISLANDS  TO  NEW 

CALEDONIA  AND  AUSTRALIA.— Vessels  leaving  the  Sand- 
wich islands  should  shape  their  course  so  as  to  run  out  of 
the  trades  near  168°  W.;  and  cross  the  line  between  168° 
and  173°  W.  The  track  lies  to  leeward  of  the  following  low 
islands:  Swallow,  (with  a  lagoon  in  the  center;)  McKean, 
(coral  island,  about  20  feet  above  water  j)  Gardner,  (an  atoll, 
visible  15  miles,  a  few  trees  upon  it ;)  Mitchell  islands,  lat. 
9°  27'  S.,  long.  179°  54'  E.,  (covered  with  cocoa-nut  trees, 
and  visible  about  10  miles ;)  it  then  runs  west  of  Meek  shoal ; 
a  good  lookout  is  necessary  near  this  coral  bank,  as  the  wa- 
ter does  not  always  break  over  it.  The  South  Pacific  Di- 
rectory for  1871  gives  its  position  as  10°  40'  S.  and  179°  08' 
E.  Its  longitude  according  to  the  French  charts  is  178°  30' 
E.  Botuinah  should  be  sighted  and  passed  to  the  westward. 
There  are  two  small  islets  about  2  miles  north  of  this  island ; 
one  of  them  is  very  low.  The  route  also  lies  west  of  Ham- 
mond reef,  the  position  of  which  is  doubtful.  Vessels  bound 
to  New  Caledonia  should  sight  Hare*  island  and  run  through 
Havannah  passage  with  the  prevalent  E.  and  SE.  winds. 

If  the  wind  should  come  out  from  W.  or  even  from  NW. 
or  NE.,  east  of  the  pass,  it  will  be  better  to  give  the  isle  of 
Pines  and  the  Great  reef  a  wide  berth,  and  enter  by  Dum-< 
bea  pass,  as  stated  in  §  111. 

If  bound  to  Australia,  pass  west  of  Mathew  island  ;  thence 
15  N 


226  FROM  THE   SANDWICH  ISLANDS  TO   TAHITI. 

steer  about  WSW.,  and  clear  the  great  New  Caledonian  reef 
well  to  the  southward.  For  the  end  of  the  passage,  vide 
§  138. 

As  the  Pacific  is  not  thoroughly  explored  between  the 
equator  and  the  south  of  New  Caledonia,  a  sharp  lookout 
must  be  kept  in  that  portion  of  the  route.  The  winds  in 
this  locality  are  generally  from  E.  and  SE.  Occasionally 
heavy  squalls  blow  near  the  New  Hebrides  and  New  Cale- 
donia, (vide  §§  4  and  26.). 

§  126.   KOTJTE  FROM  THE  SANDWICH  ISLANDS  TO  CHINA. 

— Make  your  westing  between  20°  and  15°  N. ;  keeping 
farther  to  the  north  in  summer  than  in  winter.  Information 
concerning  the  latter  part  of  the  voyage  is  given  in  §  101. 

§  127.   KOUTE  FROM  THE  SANDWICH  ISLANDS  TO  TAHITI. 

— This  passage  presents  certain  difficulties,  and  should  only 
be  undertaken  by  vessels  that  can  lie  very  close  to  the 
wind. 

Mr.  Biddlecombe,  Master  H.  M.  S.  Actaeon,  says :  lt  On 
leaving  the  Sandwich  islands,  you  should  stand  south  till 
in  the  latitude  of  the  southern  part  of  Hawaii,  when  you 
should  haul  your  wind  to  cross  the  line,  if  possible,  in  the 
longitude  of  Tahiti,  as  the  SE.  trade  breaks  you  off  when  you 
first  make  it,  and  then  you  do  not  fetch  it  within  several  de- 
grees. It  is  tedious  to  get  to  the  eastward  in  the  latitude  of 
Tahiti,  owing  to  the  strong  westerly  current ;  therefore,  you 
should  lose  no  chance  of  preserving  your  easting." 

The  most  favorable  time  to  make  this  passage  is  from  the 
end  of  March  to  the  loth  of  June.  But  the  most  difficult 
season  in  which  to  reach  the  equator  on  the  meridian  of 
Tahiti  is  during  the  months  of  July,  August,  and  Septem- 
ber, when  the  SE.  wind  prevails,  south  of  10°  N.  During 
October,  November,  and  December  the  direction  of  the  wind 
will  be  a  little  more  favorable;  and  in  January,  February, 
and  March  the  wind  will  keep  well  to  the  northward  and 
eastward  until  you  reach  the  line.  But  navigators  should 
always  bear  in  mind  that  even  in  April,  May,  and  June  it 
will  be  difficult  to  fetch  Tahiti  without  going  about,  unless 
with  an  exceedingly  fine  ipiiler. 

If  the  ship  be  not  weatherly,  or  is  a  very  small  auxiliary 
steamer,  the  better  plan  will  be  to  run  up  beyond  30°  N.,  on 
the  starboard  tack,  and  make  the  easting  on  that  parallel ; 
even  half  the  allowance  of  coal  may  be  usefully  expended 


PROM   THE   MARQUESAS  TO  THE   SANDWICH  ISLANDS.  227 

oil  this  part  of  the  passage.  Sailing-vessels  will  be  delayed 
by  calms  arid  baffling  airs  unless  they  run  well  north,  espe- 
cially from  July  to  November.  They  should,  therefore,  recross 
30°  if.  at  153°  or  150°  W.,  if  they  can  possibly  do  so,  and  then 
stand  across  the  trades  with  the  wind  abeam,  and  try  to 
reach  10°  N.  at  140°  or  138°  W.,  as  soon  as  possible.  If  the 
wind  then  haul  to  the  south,  they  will  be  far  enough  to 
windward  to  fetch  the  equator  to  eastward  of  Tahiti. 

Once  south  of  the  line,  they  can  take  one  of  the  passages 
through  the  north  of  the  Paumotas,  (vide  Wilkes's  instruc- 
tions in  §  103.) 

§  128.  ROUTE  FROM  THE  MARQUESAS  TO  THE  SAND- 
WICH ISLANDS. — This  is  not  a  difficult  passage.  Starting 
from  the  Marquesas,  a  vessel  should  cross  the  equator  as 
far  east  of  143°  W.  as  she  can,  with  a  clean  full  on  the  star- 
board tack.  From  the  end  of  June  till  November  the  SE. 
trades  usually  blow  as  far  north  as  10°  N.  Later,  and  es-  . 
pecially  from  February  to  June,  the  NE.  winds  reach  nearly 
to  the  line  $  naturally  this  last  season  is  the  worst  for  a 
passage  from  the  Marquesas  to  the  Sandwich  islands.  The 
chances  of  meeting  calms  near  the  equator  in  this  locality 
are  small ;  and  the  frequency  of  baffling  airs  from  the  west 
is  certainly  overdrawn  by  some  authors.  Information  con- 
cerning the  last  part  of  this  voyage  can  be  found  in  §§  95 
and  99. 

Biddlecombe  remarks  as  follows  on  this  passage:  "Cross 
the  equator,  if  possible,  to  the  eastward  of  145°  W.,  as  you 
will  then  be  enabled  to  steer  for  Hawaii,  or  a  degree  to  the 
eastward  of  it,  if  you  should  fall  in  with  the  NE.  trade  early, 
although  you  seldom  meet  it  till  you  are  in  10°  N.  The  va- 
riable winds  are  generally  westerly,*  and  the  current  runs 
with  the  wind ;  but  if  you  get  easterly  variables  you  may 
expect  to  be  set  a  long  way  to  the  westward,  as  the  currents 
run  more  strongly  in  that  direction  than  in  any  other.  You 
should,  therefore,  cross  the  line  well  to  the  eastward,  to  in- 
sure your  fetching  to  windward  of  Hawaii.  In  passing 
Hawaii,  do  not  go  nearer  than  40  mile$-*o  it,  as  vessels  often 
get  becalmed  for  many  days  together  under  the  land." 

§  129.  EOUTE  FROM  THE  MARQUESAS  TO  TAHITI.— This 

is  an  easy  voyage,  with  a  fair  wind  all  the  way.    It  only  de- 

*  I  do  not  think  that  this  assertion  is  often  realized. 


228  FROM   TAHITI   TO   VALPARAISO. 

mauds  attention  near  the  Paumota  group  and  Tahiti,  (vide 
§§  103,  and  93,  94,  arid  98.) 

Captain  Richard  Foy  makes  the  following  remarks  on 
this  passage,  (Ann.  Hydr.,  v.  29  :) 

"  The  voyage  from  Kuka-Hiva  to  Tahiti  is  generally  ac- 
complished in  five  or  six  days;  course  about  SW.  \  S.  ; 
this  brings  you  a  little  to  windward  of  the  central  islands 
of  Taiara  and  Raraka,  to  starboard  of  Faaite  island,  and 
then  to  windward  of  Faarava.*  Or,  if  deemed  advisable, 
run  between  Toau,  or  Elizabeth  island,  and  Aura,  and  then 
near  Greig  (Niau)  island,  sighting  the  lofty  peaks  Orohena, 
of  Tahiti,  rising  about  7,360  feet  above  the  horizon." 

§  130.  ROUTE  FROM  TAHITI  TO  SAN  FRANCISCO.—  Keep 
a  clean  full  and  cross  the  equator,  if  possible,  on  the  star- 
board tack  between  152°  and  148°  W.  ;  or,  in  other  words, 
as  far  to  the  east  as  the  variable  ESB.  trades  will  allow. 
The  best  season  is  from  the  end  of  June  till  November, 
when  the  SE.  trades  reach  nearly  to  10°  N.  From  Febru- 
ary to  June  the  NE.  trades  come  well  south  toward  the  line. 
Few  calms  and  usually  a  westerly  current  will  be  found. 
Run  through  the  NE.  trades  on  the  starboard  tack. 
^From  June  to  After  crossing  10°  N.  well  to  the  eastward,  the  starboard 
tack  will  fetch  a  ship  to  windward  of  the  Sandwich  islands. 


From  Novem-  Advantage  must  be  taken  of  every  favorable  shift  in  the 

ber  to  June. 

wind  that  will  set  the  ship  to  the  northward  and  eastward, 
remember,  however,  that  it  is  never  well  to  lie  too  close. 

The  SE.  wind  inclines  to  the  eastward  near  the  equator, 
and  to  NE.  to  northward  of  the  line.  ]n  order  to  make  to 
windward  of  Hawaii,  cross  10°  2f.  near  148°  W.  If  this  can- 
not be  done,  run  off  and  pass  well  to  leeward  of  the  Sand- 
wich islands,  thus  avoiding  the  calms  nearer  the  group. 
For  information  concerning  the  beginning  of  the  voyage, 
vide  §  135  ;  for  the  last  part,  vide  §  121. 

§  131.  ROUTE  FROM  TAHITI  TO  THE  GAM  BIER  ISLANDS, 
TUBUAI,  VALPARAISO,  CALLAO  AND  PANAMA.—  Ships 
bound  to  -Valparaiso,  Callao,  and  Panama  should  run  for  the 
region  of  west  winds,  as  stated  in  §  109.  These  winds  will 
usually  be  found  beyond  35°  S.  With  these  winds  ves- 
sels make  to  the  eastward  between  the  parallels  of  35°  and 
45°  S.,  and,  if  their  port  of  destination  be  Valparaiso,  ap- 
proach the  land  to  the  southward,  except  during  the  season 

*  Faarava  should  probably  read  Anaa.  —  Translator. 


FROM  TAHITI  TO  VALPARAISO.  229 

of  northers,  (vide  §§  29,  09  to  71,  and  110.)  Vessels  bound 
to  the  intermediate  ports  and  Oallao  should  not  again  enter 
the  SE.  trades  until  their  port  bears  to  north  of  NE. ;  thry 
should  also  make  their  land-fall  to  southward  of  their  port, 
(vide  §§  G9  to  71,  110,  and  123.)  Vessels  bound  to  Payta  or 
Panama  should  not  run  into  the  trades  until  cape  Blanco 
bears  north  of  NE. ;  while  those  for  Panama  should  sight  cape 
San  Francisco,  and  end  the  voyage  as  stated  in  §§  48  and  54. 

The  following  remarks  by  Captain  Toy  may  be  of  interest : 

"Every  vessel  bound  from  Tahiti  to  Gambler  or  Valpa- 
raiso, should  double  the  north  point  of  Moorea  at  a  distance 
of  8  or  9  miles  and  pass  to  westward  of  that  island.  This 
precaution  is  necessary,  as  the  mountains  of  Tahiti  inter- 
cept the  prevailing  winds.  Time  will  therefore  be  saved  by 
keeping  well  off  shore  ;  still  if  the  wind  be  from  X.  or  N  W., 
she  may  take  the  channel  between  'Tahiti  and  Moorea,  ex- 
cept from  June  to  November,  when  the  sea  is  heavy  and 
the  currents  strong.  This  passage  is  10  or  11  miles  broad. 

u  Once  clear  of  the  group,  steer  about  8SE.  or  even  a 
little  to  the  eastward  of  that  point,  as  the  current  sets  to 
west.  Cross  the  meridian  of  Tubuui  near  20°  S.,  and  stand 
on  the  same  course  to  22°  S.,  thus  clearing  the  doubtful  low 
islands  situated  a  little  to  the  W.  of  the  meridian  of 
Tubuai  and  beyond  22°  S.  Vessels  bound  to  Tubual 
should  then  head  a  little  west  of  S. ;  after  running  about 
64  miles  on  this  course,  they  ought  to  make  the  island  off 
the  lee  (starboard)  cat-head.  At  a  distance,  Tubuai  resem- 
bles a  "  ham." 

Passage  of  the  Sibylle,  Captain  Brossolet,  (Ann.  Hydr., 
1871.)— "1  ran  from  Tahiti  to  27^  S.  in  four  days.  Wind 
moderate  and  from  SE.  to  ESE.  The  trades  then  died 
away  and  were  succeeded  by  calms  and  rain -squalls,  lasting 
for  several  days;  headed  S.  to  clear  this  locality.  Struck  the 
W.  wind  on  the  9th  February,  near  36°  S. ;  attempted  to 
steer  a  great-circle  route  for  Valparaiso,  but  the  wind  not 
.holding,  1  did  not  reach  40°  S.  till  the  16th.  Here  the  wind 
set  in  steady  from  WNW.  and  I  ran  at  the  rate  of  from  7 
to  10  knots,  until  I  reached  Valparaiso,  on  the  7th  March, 
1869 ;  35  days  at  sea.  One  day  during  the  passage  the 
wind  grew  so  strong  that  I  feared  I  would  have  to  lie  to. 
Near  the  Chilean  coast  it  died  away  calm. 

"  Though  I  passed  within  3  or  4  miles  of  the  supposed 


230  FROM  TAHITI  TO  NEW   CALEDONIA. 

position  of  Tabor*  island,  in  broad  daylight,  I  saw  nothing 
of  it." 

Passage  of  the  Alceste,  Captain  Brosset. — "Maury  does  not 
mention  the  passage  from  the  Society  islands  to  Valparaiso. 
The  route,  however,  is  quite  simple. 

"  You  should  run  through  the  SE.  trades  rap-full,  and 
when  you  reach  the  region  of  west  winds  make  a  great- 
circle  route  for  Valparaiso.  Maury's  pilot-charts  prove  this 
to  be  the  best  route. 

"I  left  Tahiti  on  the  31st  October.  Experienced 
calms  and  light  variable  airs  instead  of  the  usual  stiff 
trades.  Did  not  clear  the  Tubuai  group  until  the  6th 
November.  On  the  7th  ran  into  a  NE.  wind,  at  30°  S.,  and 
steered  a. great-circle  route  5  the  wind  shifted  from  NE.  to 
N.  and  NW.  on  the  9th  ;  lat.  34°  S.,  long.  147°  W.  The 
great-circle  route  brought  me  to  40°  S.  During  the  voyage 
the  wind  followed  the  usual  laws,  arid  was  as  a  general 
thing  moderate.  I  arrived  at  Valparaiso  on  the  30th 
November  after  a  passage  of  30  days." 

1st.    Route   to       §  132.   BOUTE  FROM  TAHITI  TO  NEW  CALEDONIA,  NEW 

ZEALAND,  AND  AUSTRALIA. — As  a  general  rule  vessels 
should  run  N.  of  the  Tongas  from  July  to  October,  and  S. 
from  November  to  June.  By  making  the  following  cross- 
ings the  voyage  will  be  easy  and  the  wind  fair : 

In  January,  cross  18°  S.  at  160°  W. ;  22°  30'  S.  at  175°  W., 
or  S.  of  the  Tongas;  and  make  a  straight  wake  for  your 
port. 

In  February,  run  S.  of  the  Samoas,  cross  17°  S.  at  175° 
W.,  and  20°  S.  about  178°  W.,  then  steer  westward. 

In  March,  20°  S.  at  154°  W. ;  22°  S.  at  160°  W. ;  and  22° 
30'  S.  at  175°  W.,  south  of  the  Tongas. 

In  April,  20°  S.  at  152°  10'  W. ;  22°  S.  at  155°  W. ;  23° 
S.  at  160°  W. ;  thence  pass  N.  of  Minerva  reefs,  and  sight 
Fearn  and  Mathew  islands. 

In  May  and  June,  15°  S.  at  152°  W. ;  13°  S.  at  155°  W., 
and  follow  this  parallel  to  165°  W. ;  thence  run  to  south-  • 
ward  of  the  Samoa  group ;  cross  18°  S.  at  176°  W.,  and 
pass  west  of  the  Tongas  and  south  of  the  Fijis. 

In  July,  15°  S.  at  152°  W. ;  12°  30'  S.  at  160°  W. ;  15°  S. 
at  169°  W.,  and  run  along  this  parallel  to  180°  j  cross  18°  S. 
at  174°  E.,  and  22°  S.  at  170°  E.  This  route  carries  the 

".Should  probably  read  Tabon. 


FROM  TAHITI  TO  NEW  CALEDONIA.  231 

ship  south  of  the  Samoas,  and  north  and  west  of  the 
Fijis. 

In  August,  15°  S.  at  151°  10'  W. ;  14°  S.  at  160°  W.,  and 
keep  on  this  parallel  to  165°  W. ;  17°  S.  at  175°  W.,  and 
20°  S.  at  178°  W.;  in  other  words  run  south  of  the  Samoas, 
north  and  west  of  the  Tongas,  and  south  of  the  Fijis. 

In  September,  18°  S.  at  160°  W. ;  21°  S.  at  170°  W. ;  22° 
S.  at  175°  W.,  and  thence  to  the  westward.  This  route  lies 
south  of  the  Tonga  group. 

In  October,  15°  S.  at  152°  10' W.;  and  follow  this  parallel 
to  about  175°  50'  E.;  thus  passing  south  of  the  Samoas  and 
north  of  the  Fijis.  Thence  cross  22°  S.  at  170°  E.  Onase- 
use,  or  Hunter  island,  can  be  sighted ;  it  is  situated  in  lat. 
15°  31'  S.,  long.  176°  19'  E.,  and  is  a  cultivated  and  inhab- 
ited volcanic  island. 

In  November  and  December,  20°  S.  at  152°  10'  W. ;  22°  S. 
at  160°  W. ;  and  thence  make  the  westing  south  of  the 
Tonga  group. 

After  making  these  crossings,  as  nearly  as  circumstances 
will  allow,  run  through  Havannah  pass,  with  the  prevailing 
E.  or  SE.  winds.  But  if  to  eastward  of  Havannah  passage 
the  wind  come  out  from  W.,  NW.,  or  even  NE.,  give  the 
isle  of  Pines  a  wide  berth  and  enter  by  Dumbea  passage, 
as  stated  in  §  111. 

The  following  observations  on  this  route  are  by  Captain 
Foy,  (Ann.  Rydr.,  vol.  29 :) 

"  After  leaving  Papiete  for  Noumea,  vessels  run  down 
their  westing  with  the  wind  astern.  They  keep  a  good  dis- 
tance from  Morea  island,  and  leave  the  Borabora  group  on 
their  starboard  hand ;  thence  they  run  through  the  Cook 
group.  The  principal  island  of  this  group  is  Aitutaki,  and 
may  be  recognized  by  its  remarkable  hummock,  which 
slopes  to  the  southward.  This  island  should  be  left  well  to 
port;  still,  if  a  shift  of  wind  to  west,  or  any  other  cause, 
should  compel  a  vessel  to  run  'through  the  group,  she  can 
double  Aitutaki  to  southward,  keeping  a  good  lookout  for 
shoal  water.  Thence  the  route  should  be  resumed,  so  as  to 
profit  by  the  trades.  Tonga-Tabou  may  be  recognized  by 
the  shape  of  Eooa,  which  is  a  round,  large  island  with  two 
summits ;  it  is  situated  south  of  Tonga.  Vessels  may  pass 
between  these  islands,  or  south  of  all.  In  the  N.  channel 


232  FROM   TAHITI  TO  NEW   CALEDONIA. 

the  currents  set  toward  the  eastern  coast  of  the  island ; 
while  well  off  shore  and  south  of  Tonga  their  direction  is 
westerly.  I  sighted  Fearn  and  Mathew  islands,  and  left 
them  to  port;  also  Walpole  to  starboard.  The  first  is  about 
400  feet  high;  the  second,  340  feet;  and  the  third,  210  feet 
at  its  northern  extremity,  and  about  480  feet  at  its  southern. 
The  distance  between  the  N.  and  S.  summits  of  Walpole 
island  is  about  4,140  yards.  A  short  distance  to  the  west 
is  the  isle  of  Pines,  a  low  sugar-loaf,  covered  with  pines, 
and  about  870  feet  high. 

"The  length  of  the  voyage  is  from  1C  to  17  days,  and  the 
sailing  distance  about  2,475  miles." 

Passage  of  the  Bonite,  Lieutenant  Jouan  commanding r 
(Ann.  Hydr.,  vol.21.}— "Left  Tahiti  at  daylight  on  the  13th 
September.  Gentle  breeze  from  ENE.  until  the  17th. 
Sighted  Pylstaart  island  during  the  night  of  the  23d  and 
24th  and  lost  it,  bearing  NE.  by  N,,  the  next  morning  at  9 
o'clock,  llain-squalls  and  variable  airs.  At  11  a.  m.  on 
the  29th  sighted  Fearn  island ;  this  is  a  barren  rock  and 
quite  steep-to.  The  volcanic  island,  Mathew,  was  reported 
in  sight  during  the  afternoon.  At  sunset  on  the  30th  made 
Walpole  island,  very  low  on  the  horizon.  As  the  wind  was 
light  and  variable  during  the  night  I  did  not  reach  Havan- 
nah  strait  till  4.30  p.  m.  on  the  1st  of  October.  It  was 
then  too  late  to  attempt  the  passage,  especially  as  the  tide 
was  running  ebb,  so  I  stood  off  and  on  during  the  night 
and  ran  through  at  daylight.  Although  it  was  nearly  low 
water,  the  current  was  still  very  violent,  with  a  heavy  chop 
sea  at  the  entrance  to  the  strait.  Notwithstanding  a  good 
breeze  from  the  east,  the  Bonite  only  forged  ahead  about  a 
knot  per  hour,  until  the  tide  turned ;  when  I  ran  through 
Woodin  channel,  and  anchored  off  Noumea  at  5.15  p.  m.* 
T  2d.  Route  to  From  April  to  November  pass  north  of  the  Tongas,  and 
cross  17°  S.  at  about  175°  W.  Thence,  running  to  wesfc- 
From  April  toward  of  the  Tonga  group,  cross  20°  S.  near  178°  W. 

November. 

Make  the  westing  on  the  parallel  of  20°  S.,  thus  passing 
to  southward  of  Batou-bara  (Vatu-rera)  island ;  when  steer 
SW.,  and  cross  the  Tropic  near  178°  or  177°  E. ;  when  the 
ship  will  probably  meet  the  SW.  or  NW.  winds,  which  will 
easily  enable  her  to  make  the  bay  of  Islands. 
"vem"  l?rom  November  to  April,  after  passing  north  of  the 


FROM   TAHITI   TO   NEW  ZEALAND.  233 

Cook  group,  run  south  of  the  supposed  position  of  Nichol- 
son reef,*  and  cross  the  tropic  at  373°  or  175°  W.  Kim  to 
westward  of  the  Kermadec  isles,  and  thence  for  the  bay  of 
Islands,  with  the  wind  abeam. 

The  foregoing  routes  apply  only  to  vessels  bound  to  the 
bay  of  Islands.  If  bound  to  port  Nicholson  or  Otago,  it 
will  be  better  to  follow  the  route  given  for  the  passage  to 
New  Caledonia,  and  cross  the  tropic  south  of  the  isle  of 
Pines;  thence,  after  striking  the  west  winds,  run  for  Cook's 
strait,  (vide  §  107,)  if  bound  to  Port  Nicholson  ;  or  Favorite 
strait,  if  for  Port  Otago. 

Captain  Foy  makes  the  following  observations  on  this 
passage,  (Ann.  Hydr.,  vol.  29 :) 

"  The  route  from  Tahiti  is  nearly  identical  with  that  to 
New  Caledonia,  keeping  to  the  tropics  until  it  reaches  168° 
W.  A  ship  should  pass  CO  miles  south  of  Nicholson  reef, 
as  it  is  long  and  dangerous ;  cross  the  tropic  at  173  W., 
south  of  Tonga-Tabou;  and  head  for  the  bay  of  Islands, 
running  wTest  of  Kaoul  island,  one  of  the  Kermadec  group. 
From  December  to  May  the  wind  is  nearly  always  abeam, 
from  NW.  or  SE.  On  approaching  New  Zealand  a  vessel 
should  keep  a  little  to  windward  of  Kororarika,  so  as  to  be 
sure  to  fetch  the  anchorage. 

"  The  bay  of  Islands  is  easily  recognized  by  a  large  rock, 
with  an  opening,  which  forms  a  good  landmark.  New  Zea- 
land is  visible,  in  clear  weather,  at  a  distance  of  30  miles ; 
and  when  first  sighted  looks  like  a  vast  plateau  covered 
with  low  hummocks.  The  land  will  gradually  make  out  to 
the  eastward  as  you  approach ;  it  looks  like  a  group  of 
islands,  and  is  surrounded  by  peculiarly-shaped  rocks,  with 
daylight  showing  through  the  large  openings  in  many  of 
them.  At  a  distance  these  rocks  have  the  appearance  of  a 
vessel  under  canvas,  the  white  strata  in  them  looking  like 
sails.'7 

Follow  the  track  given  in  the  first  part  of  this  paragraph,    3d.   Route   to 
under  "the  route  to  New  Caledonia."    Pass  south  of  theAl 
isle  of  Pines  and  the  Great  reef;  thence  run  some  distance 

*  The  position  of  Nicholson  reef  is  doubtful ;  its  existence  even  is 
uncertain.  Beveridge  shoal  has  recently  been  located  by  R.  Ad. 
Roussin  ;  it  is  5  miles  long  N.  and  S.,  and  3  miles  E.  and  W.,  and  is 
just  awa-h,  with  a  lagoon  in  the  center. 


234  FROM  TAHITI  TO   THE  MARQUESAS   ISLANDS. 

to  the  west  before  standing  to  the  southward.  For  informa- 
tion concerning  the  last  part  of  the  voyage,  vide  §  138. 

From  March  to       §    133.    EOUTE    FROM    TAHITI    TO    CHINA. — FrOIB    March 

to  August,  head  about  NW.  to  3°  or  2°  S.,  and  follow 
one  of  these  parallels  to  163°  or  108°  W.  Thence  bear 
north  for  the  NE.  trades.  Keep  to  northward  of  the  Eat- 
ack  and  Balick  groups.  From  May  to  October,  steer  from 
the  north  of  the  Marshall  group  for  the  south  of  the 
Marianas,  keeping  to  northward  of  the  Carolines,  and 
enter  the  China  sea  through  the  strait  of  San  Bernardino, 
(vide  §  101,  note.)  The  SW.  monsoon  prevails  at  this 
season. 

From  August  From  August  to  March,  and  especially  after  October,  the 
route  is  a  little  more  to  the  southward.  It  passes  within 
sight  of  the  Suwarrow  islands,  and  runs  north  of  the  Sa- 
moasj  thence  steer  NNW.  and  pass  west  of  Duke  of  Clar- 
ence, Duke  of  York,  and  Gardner  islands.  Cross  the  line 
at  178°  W.  or  180°,  and  keep  east  of  the  Eatack  chain. 
After  doubling  these  islands  to  the  N.,  pass  between  Grigan 
and  Assumpcion,  or  rather  north  of  the  Marianas,  (vide 
§  101,)  and  enter  the  China  sea  to  northward  of  the  Bashee 
group.  The  NE.  monsoon  prevails  at  this  season. 

§  134.  EOUTE  FROM  TAHITI  TO  THE  MARQUESAS  ISL- 
ANDS.— This  passage,  though  quite  difficult  under  canvas, 
can,  with  the  assistance  of  steam,  be  rendered  compara- 
tively easy.  Vessels  could  easily  fetch  Nuka-Hiva  if  the 
Paumota  group  were  not  in  the  way.  As  it  is,  they  should 
be  very  careful  if  compelled  to  go  about  in  the  middle  of 
the  group.  An  auxiliary  steamer  should  always  enter 
through  the  strait  between  Fakarava  (Faarava)  and  Faaite 
islands;  keep  to  windward  of  Earaka  and  Taiara,  and  leave 
the  group  by  running  to  windward  of  Tika,  (or  Tikei.) 
From  this  point  it  is  generally  possible  to  fetch  Nuka-Hiva. 

The  following  instructions  are  due  to  Captain  Foy,  (Ann. 
Hydr.,  vol.  29 :)  a  The  approach  to  the  Marquesas  being 
simple,  the  delicate  part  of  the  route  is  that  through  the 
Paurnotas.  The  wind  in  the  western  part  of  the  group  is 
generally  from  NE.,  and  in  the  eastern  part  from  SE., 
though  variable  in  both  instances. 

"After  leaving  Tahiti  and  doubling  point  Venus  you  should 
lie  very  close  and  take  advantage  of  every  shift  in  the  wind, 
and  if  lucky,  you  will  be  able  to  run  through  the  passage 


FROM   TAHITI   TO   THE   SANDWICH   ISLANDS.  235 

between  Fakarava  and  Faaite  tbe  next  day  at  daylight. 
If  possible  keep  to  windward  of  Earaka  and  Taiera  islands, 
and  leave  the  group  by  passing  to  windward  of  Tikei,  if  the 
wind  incline  to  shift  to  SE.  or  ESE.  But  if  the  wind 
freshen  from  ESTE.  to  NB.,  it  will  be  difficult  to  make  cast- 
ing, as  the  current  sets  west,  or  very  often  south,  so  strong- 
ly that  it  will  be  difficult  to  make  headway  against  it,  in 
which  case  you  will  be  compelled  to  cross  the  Paumotas 
between  Vliegen  (Nairsa)  and  Arutua  islands,  and  if  possi- 
ble run  out  to  windward  of  Manihi  island. 

"  Once  clear  of  the  Paumotas,  beat  to  eastward  as  far  as 
possible,  as  northing  can  be  made  at  any  time,  especially  if 
the  SE.  trades  be  found  north  of  the  largest  of  the  Napuka 
group.  Make  the  land  at  Roa-Poa,  which  lies  south  of  the 
principal  island,  and  thence  run  for  Tai-o-hae  bay,  where 
there  is  an  anchorage  in  from  7  to  9  fathoms.  The  harbor 
is  sheltered,  except  from  SW.  and  S. 

"This  passage  can  generally  be  made  in  15  or  1<>  days, and 
the  weather,  especially  among  the  islands  of  the  Paumota 
group,  will  be  quite  bad." 

Lieutenant  Parchappe  makes  the  following  observations 
on  this  voyage,  (vide  Ann.  Hydr.,  vol.  12 :) 

"  The  Paumota  islands  are  very  low,  of  coral  formation, 
and  here  and  there  covered  with  clumps  of  trees.  Most  of 
them  have  a  lagoon  in  the  center.  They  are  rarely  visible 
at  a  distance  of  over  12  miles. 

"  Formerly  vessels  bound  from  Tahiti  to  Nukahiva,  used 
to  run  to  southward  and  then  to  eastward  of  the  Pauraota 
group ;  since  the  position  of  the  islands  has  been  better 
determined,  the  route  is  generally  through  the  archipelago." 

§  135.  EOUTE  FROM  TAHITI  TO  THE  SANDWICH  ISLANDS.— 
The  reader  should  first  refer  to  §  130,  where,  speaking  of 
the  route  from  Tahiti  to  San  Francisco,  we  stated  that, 
from  June  to  November,  vessels  could  easily  fetch  to  wind- 
ward of  the  Sandwich  islands  if  they  crossed  10°  2s\  at  148° 
W.  During  the  rest  of  the  year  it  will  be  difficult  to  cross 
the  10th  parallel  so  far  to  the  east,  and  almost  impossible 
to  make  Hawaii. 

Captain  Beechey  gives  the  following  instructions  :  "  From 
the  time  we  passed  Mai  tea  we  endeavored  to  get  to  the  east- 
ward and  to  cross  the  equator  in  about  150°  W.  longitude, 
so  that  when  we  met  the  NB.  trade- wind  we  might  be  well 


236  FROM  NEW  CALEDONIA   TO   AUSTRALIA. 

to  windward.  There  is  otherwise  some  difficulty  in  round- 
ing Hawaii,  which  should  be  done  about  40  miles  to  the 
eastward  to  insure  the  breeze.  The  passage  between  the 
Society  and  Sandwich  islands  differs  from  a  navigation  be- 
tween the  same  parallels  in  the  Atlantic,  in  the  former  being 
exempt  from  the  long  calms,  which  sometimes  prevail  about 
the  equator,  and  in  the  SE.  trade  being  more  easterly.  The 
westerly  current  is  much  the  same  in  both,  and  if  not  at- 
tended to  in  the  Pacific  will  carry  a  ship  so  far  to  leeward 
that  by  the  time  she  reaches  the  parallel  of  the  Sandwich 
islands  she  will  be  a  long  way  to  westward,  and  have  much 
difficulty  in  beating  up  to  them." 

§  136.  EOUTE  FROM:  NEW  CALEDONIA  TO  SAN  FRAN- 
CISCO.— For  instructions  concerning  the  first  part  of  the 
voyage,  vide  §  108,  (cape  Horn  route.)  Vessels  should 
double  New  Zealand  to  northward,  and  bear  away  for  48° 
or  50°  S.,  keeping  on  this  latitude  until  they  reach  about 
138°  W.  Thence  the  track  is  to  northward  and  eastward, 
and  enters  the  SE.  trades  near  128°  W.  Finish  the  voyage 
as  stated  in  §§  50  and  110. 

§  137.  ROUTE  FROM  NEW  CALEDONIA  TO  VALPARAISO, 
CALLAO,  AND  PANAMA. — §  108  also  contains  instructions  for 
this  passage.  After  passing  north  of  New  Zealand  vessels 
gradually  make  to  the  southward  and  eastward.  From 
October  to  April  they  run  down  their  easting  between  45° 
and  50°  S. ;  from  April  to  October,  between  47°  and  52°  S. 
The  voyage  is  generally  ended  as  stated  in  §  110. 

§  138.  ROUTE  FROM  NEW  CALEDONIA  TO  AUSTRALIA.— 
This  is  a  voyage  of  fair  winds.  In  order  to  meet  them  a 
ship  should  first  steer  for  Sandy  cape,  and  then  round  off 
to  the  southward  so  as  to  reach  the  parallel  of  Moreton 
island,  near  157°  E.  The  course  is  afterward  S.,  with 
variable  winds  and  a  current  generally  favorable.  The  land 
should  be  made  to  northward  of  the  port. 

In  §  111  the  reader  will  find  a  long  extract  from  the  in- 
structions of  Captain  Jouan,  concerning  the  proper  route 
from  Sydney  to  Noumea.  We  give  below  an  abstract  from 
the  log  of  the  Bouite,  Captain  Jouan,  for  three  voyages  be- 
tween Noumea  and  Sydney,  (Arm.  Hydr.,  vol.  26 :) 
First  voyage.  "  Left  the. 23d  Novem  ber,  1860 ;  cleared  the  reefs  at  6  p.  m . ; 
wind  SE. ;  breakers  close  to  leeward ;  outside  gentle 
wind  from  WSW.  Becalmed  for  2  days  on  the  tropic ; 


FROM  NEW  CALEDONIA  TO  AUSTRALIA. 


237 


afterward  2  days'  wind  from  E.  and  EXE.,  which  carried  us 
close  to  Middleton  island.  There  the  weather  became  over- 
cast and  variable,  wind  generally  from  NW.,  fulling  light 
and  calm  about  2  p.  m.,  and  followed  by  unsettled  weather 
in  the  evening,  with  a  thunder-storm  from  southward. 
During  the  night  of  the  3d  and  4th  December,  experienced 
a  brick- fielder,  the  wind  shifted  suddenly  to  SSE.,  squalls 
violent;  notwithstanding  this  shift  of  wind,  the  upper  strata 
of  clouds  still  drifted  to  NW.;  barometer  29in.72 ;  thermom- 
eter, 73°.  The  bad  weather  lasted  only  a  short  time;  gen- 
tle breeze  from  NE.  on  approaching  the  coast.  Anchored 
at  Sydney  on  the  7th  December,  after  a  passage  of  13  days. 

"Left  Noumea  on  the  2Cth  February,  1862,  with  a  second  voyage, 
light  breeze  from  N.  Had  to  let  go  again  inside  the 
reefs,  as  the  wind  shifted  to  SW.  Kan  out  on  the 
1st  March  with  a  NW.  wind,  but  was  hardly  clear  of  the 
reefs  when  it  again  shifted  to  W.  and  SW.  The  weather 
became  fine  as  we  drew  away  from  the  land.  But  the 
barometer,  generally  high  with  south  winds,  fell  to  29in.57; 
stars  brilliant;  sea  phosphorescent.  Dead  calm  and  heavy 
SE.  swell  during  the  afternoon  of  the  3d ;  suddenly  a 
violent  squall  from  SE.,  and  an  extraordinarily  heavy  sea. 
Fine  weather  on  the  5th;  barometer  rising  gradually  to 
30in.12 ;  light  breeze  from  SSE.  to  SE.,  shifting  to  E.  and 
NE.  On  the  10th,  being  210  miles  NE.  of  Sydney  and  120 
miles  E.  of  Hawke  head,  the  wind  shifted  to  NNW.,  blow- 
ing very  stiffly ;  bar.  29in.92 ;  sky  very  clear  to  NNW.,  and 
slightly  overcast  to  E.  At  daylight,  the  wind  died  away 
and  after  a  day's  tow  we  reached  Farm  Cove  just  in  time  to 
avoid  a  brick- fielder. 

"Cleared  Dumbea  pass  at  9.30  a.  m.  on  the  2d  July,  1862,  Third  voyage, 
with  a  light  breeze  from  NW.  Heavy  surf  on  the  reefs. 
At  10  a.  in.  wind  shifted  to  W.  With  the  exception  of  2 
days'  calms  and  light  variable  airs  from  SSE.  to  NNE.,  the 
whole  passage  of  24  days  was  one  succession  of  squalls ; 
during  the  short  periods  between  the  squalls  the  wind  was 
light  and  always  from  the  westward.  Lightning  on  the 
horizon  always  showed  the  direction  from  which  the  wind 
was  to  be  expected." 

Captain  Eichard.Foy  makes  the  following  remarks  upon 
this  passage,  (Ann.  Hydr.,  vol.  29  :) 


238  FROM  NEW   CALEDONIA   TO   AUSTRALIA. 

From  Decem-  "The  passage  to  Moretoo  bay,  Newcastle,  and  Sydney 
can  always  be  made  with  fair  winds  from  December  to 
May.  The  route  is  direct,  but  a3  the  current  sets  to  the 
southward,  it  is  best  to  head  for  the  land  at  least  a  degree 
to  the  north  of  your  port.  Once  in  sight  of  laud  of  course 
your  future  action  will  depend  upon  the  direction  of  the 
prevailing  winds.  The  approach  to  the  coast  is  rendered 
dangerous  by  the  frequency  of  the  heavy  wind  and  rain 
squalls  from  ESE.  to  ENE.  They  rarely  last  for  more  than 
2  or  3  days.  It  is  then  advisable  to  keep  well  off  shore  un- 
til the  weather  changes.  When  bound  to  Newcastle  the 
land  should  be  made  near  port  Stevens.'1 

The  heavy  squalls  mentioned  by  Captain  Foy  are  the 
same  as  those  referred  to  in  §  6.  The  following  account, 
though  long,  we  consider  necessary  to  give  our  readers  an 
idea  of  the  bad  weather  in  these  parts : 

Passage  of  the  Marceau,  Lieut.  Galaclie,  commanding. — 
"  The  Marceau  left  Noumea  for  Sydney  on  the  5th  Febru- 
ary, 1868 ;  weather  fine,  breeze  light  from  SSW.  On  the 
morning  of  the  7th  the  wind  was  light  and  varied  from 
ENE.  to  NE.  Same  weather  till  the  13tb.  The  weather 
became  more  dull  as  we  approached  the  Australian  coast, 
the  barometer  falling  from  29in.92  and  29in.96  to  29in.84  and 
29in.SO;  this  is  the  normal  fall,  and  in  these  localities  be- 
tokens fine  weather,  calms,  and  light  northerly  airs.  I 
sighted  successively  the  paps  called  the  Three  Brothers, 
situated  north  of  Caniden  haven,  cape  Hawke,  and  the 
laud  near  Sugar-Loaf  point. 

"  The  foggy  weather  and  heavy  appearance  of  the  sky  be- 
token a  rain-squall  from  NW.  and  a  shift  of  wind  to  SE.  or 
S.,  for  the  next  evening,  (burster  or  brick  fielder.)  At  this 
season  these  signs  never  fail,  but  I  expected  to  make  Syd- 
ney by  noon  the  following  day,  and  the  shift  of  wind  rarely 
takes  place  before  3  p.  m. 

"  I  therefore  kept  about  15  or  20  miles  from  the  coast, 
and  made  moderate  headway  with  the  light  wind  from  N. 
and  the  current  which  set  to  the  S.  at  a  rate  of  about  1£ 
knots  per  hour.  On  the  night  of  the  13th  we  sighted  port 
Stevens  light  and  headed  for  Broken  bay,  judging  that  the 
current  would  drift  us  to  the  south.  - 

"  The  breeze  died  away,  however;  the  sky  became  over- 
cast, and  a  single  violent  flash  of  lightning  illuminated  the 


FROM  NEW   CALEDONIA   TO   AUSTRALIA.  239 

horizon  from  S.  to  E. ;  this  flash  was  the  only  warning  we 
had  ;  the  barometer  was  steady  and  everything  seemed  to 
indicate  a  squall  from  SE.  About  2  a.  m.  the  SE.  horizon 
became  overcast,  and  the  wind  came  in  hot  and  cold  puffs, 
as  it  often  does  before  a  rain-storm.  Furled  the  light  sails, 
and  clewed  up  the  mainsail;  had  taken  one  reef  theoight 
before;  braced  up  the  yards  and  received  squall  with  the 
sails  full.  It  did  not  blow  very  hard,  and  a  quarter  of  an 
hour  afterward  reset  the  topgallant  sails  and  mainsail  and 
headed  for  Sydney.  Lost  sight  of  port  Stevens  light  to 
NNW.,  at  3h45m,  Sydney  bearing  NE.  by  X.,  distant  about 
50  miles. 

"From  2  to  4  a.  in.  the  wind  did  not  freshen  or  change, 
but  the  sky  looked  heavy  and  threatening ;  barometer 
steady.  After  4  o'clock  the  wind  hauled  to  the  southward, 
and  grew  rapidly  stronger.  I  could  not  keep  the  ship  on 
her  course  ;  but  still  hoped,  with  the  assistance  of  the  cur- 
rent, to  reach  Sydney  or  at  least  Broken  hay,  situated  15 
miles  to  the  northward.  Kan  in  for  the  laud,  hauled  on  the 
port  tack,  but  could  not  make  it  out  on  account  of  the 
heavy  rain  and  overcast  sky;  dead  reckoning  put  us  about 
25  miles  off  shore  at  6  a.  in.  All  the  appearances  betokened 
bad  weather. 

"I  immediately  made  everything  snug  aloft  and  went 
about  to  the  eastward,  the  wind  having  hauled  to  SSVV. ; 
made  5  or  6  knots  per  hour;  very  heavy  sea  running, 
occasioned  by  the  S.  wind  acting  against  the  current;  made 
from  25  to  30  miles  on  a  good  course  from  7  a.  m.  to  noon. 

"  On  the  night  of  the  14th  and  15th  the  weather  was 
passable ;  but  on  the  morning  of  the  15th  the  wind  was 
very  strong  and  blew  violently  during  the  whole  day  ;  the 
sea  was  frightful  during  the  whole  of  the  14th  and  15th;  the 
wind  remained  steady  from  S.,  but  after  the  15th  shifted  to 
SE.  Sounded  on  the  evening  of  the  15th  and  the  morning 
of  the  16th,  but  found  no  bottom  at  82  fathoms.  If  we  had,  I 
should  have  considered  the  Marceau  in  a  very  dangerous 
situation,  as  the  depth  of  water  in  this  locality  is  100  fathoms 
at  a  distance  of  only  about  30  miles  off  the  coast.  Besides,  in 
my  preceding  voyages  I  had  carefully  noted  the  color  of 
the  water  off  Sydney ;  witliin  30  miles  it  is  of  a  dark  olive 
green,  easily  recognized,  especially  on  the  crest  of  the 
waves.  Where  we  were  it  appeared  green  or  light  blue. 


240  FROM  NEW  CALEDONIA  TO   SINGAPORE. 

''Lighted  the  fires  and  steamed  on  the  evening  of  the  16th, 
thus  reducing  our  leeway  from  8  to  less  than  5  points. 
Course  NE.,  Sydney  bearing  nearly  NNW. 

u  During  the  night  of  the  16th  and  17th  the  gale  was  at 
its  height,  the  wind  striking  the  masts  and  rigging  with 
terrific  force,  and  nearly  throwing  the  ship  on  her  beam 
ends ;  the  sea  was  frightful,  and  broke  all  over  the  ship,  in- 
undating the  hold,  and  sweeping  everything  before  it. 

"  As  the  wind  blew  furiously,  first  from  SSW.  and  after- 
ward from  ESE.,  it  caused  a  frightful  cross-sea,  which 
sometimes  struck  us  to  windward  and  again  to  leeward, 
loosening  the  gripes  on  the  boats,  and  rushing  down  the 
hatches. 

"During  all  this  time,  from  the  14th  till  the  morning  of 
the  17th,  the  barometer  only  varied  between  29in.SO  to  29in.88. 

"  After  this  the  wind  hauled  to  the  E.,  and  I  went  about 
to  the  southward  on  the  morning  of  the  17th.  Contrary  to 
my  expectations,  the  wind  shifted  toENE.  in  the  afternoon, 
and  I  again  spread  the  fires,  which  I  had  banked  in  the 
morning.  Near  midnight  the  wind  moderated  and  hauled 
to  NE.  and  NNE.,  the  barometer  commencing  to  fall  slowly  j 
at  6  a.  m.  on  the  18th  1  headed  W.  on  the  starboard  tack, 
the  wind  growing  lighter.  About  8  o'clock  the  weather 
cleared  and  the  rain  ceased.  Our  position  at  noon  was  65 
miles  ESE.  of  Jervis  bay,  and  120  miles  SSE.  of  Sydney. 

"  Although  I  was  quite  sure  that  the  easterly  squalls  had 
sagged  the  ship  to  SSE.,  I  hardly  expected  that,  after  a 
three  days'  gale  from  S.,  I  should  find  the  southerly  current 
as  strong  as  it  was. 

"Navigators  acquainted  with  these  localities  state  that, 
although  the  strong  S.  winds  occasion  a  surface-current 
toward  the  N.,  when  the  east  wind  again  sets  in,  the  mass  of 
water  rushes  back  in  a  SSE.  direction,  with  a  speed  pro- 
portional to  the  length  of  time  it  has  been  kept  from  its 
normal  direction. 

"  We  sighted  point  Jervis  light  on  the  evening  of  the 
18th ;  weather  calm ;  at  2  a.  m.  spread  fires  and  reached 
port  Jackson  at  8  p.  m.  on  the  19th." 

§  139.  EOUTE  FROM  NEW  CALEDONIA  TO  SINGAPORE 
1st.  During  QHINA,  AND  JAPAN. — Starting  from  Noumea,  bound  to  Ba- 
mousowui?  K    '  tavia  and  Singapore,  at  this  season,  (from  April  to  October,) 
a  ship  should,  as  soon  as  the  passes  are  cleared,  head  NW., 


FROM  NOUMEA   TO   BATAVIA.  241 

and  then  run  E.  of  Fairway  reef.  Thence,  with  the  SE. 
trades  fair,  the  route  lies  to  northward  ;  giving  Bampton 
and  Hellish  reefs  and  Diana  bank  a  wide  berth.  Kim 
through  Torres  strait,  and  finish  the  voyage  as  stated  in  §  171. 

Bound  to  Saigon  or  Hong  Kong,  between  March  and  the 
end  of  July,  take  the  same  route,  with  the  SE.  monsoon 
after  you.  Cross  the  Java  sea  and  enter  the  China  sea 
through  Carimata  strait.  Here  the  SW.  monsoon  prevails, 
and  lasts  till  the  end  of  October.  For  information  concern- 
ing the  end  of  the  passage,  vide  §  173. 

The  following  voyage  was  made  in  October  and  Novem- 
ber, or  the  season  of  change  in  the  monsoons,  when  calms 
and  light  baffling  airs  are  frequent. 

Passage  of  the  Guichen,  (screw,)  Captain  Perrier.  from  Nou- 
mea to  Batavia.— "Left  Noumea  on  the  16th  October,  18G9; 
headed  straight  for  Raine  island  ;  the  east  winds  being 
very  light,  had  to  get  up  steam.  Kan  through  Raine  island 
pass  on  the  26th,  and  anchored  at  Sommerset  on  the  27th. 
Fresh  beef  was  obtained  here,  but  no  coal.  Left  for  Torres 
strait  and  Timor  on  the  28th.  Found  a  dead  calm  in  the 
Arafura  sea.  Headed  for  the  N.  coast  of  Timor,  so  as  to 
make  the  anchorage  of  Dula ;  arrived  off  this  place  on  the 
3d  November;  no  coal  here  either;  kept  on  without  anchor- 
ing. Arrived  at  the  Dutch  coal  depot  of  Kupang 
on  the  4th.  Distance  run  2,700  miles,  without  filling  up 
with  a  fresh  supply  of  provisions,  and  with  a  very  light 
wind  through  the  Coral  sea. 

"  Left  Kupaug  on  the  7th  November,  and  anchored  at 
Sourabaya  on  the  nth,  after  crossing  Loinbok  and 
Madura  straits.  Left  for  Batavia  on  the  16th,  and  arrived 
at  that  port  on  the  18th.  Total  length  of  passage  from 
Noumea  33  days ;  steamed  nearly  all  the  way." 

During  this  season  (from  October  to  April)  sailing-vessels,  ,2d-  Dunns  the 
and  auxiliary  steamers  wishing  to  save  coal,  should  take  Solans. d 
the  northerly  route  for  Hong  Kong,  Saigon,  and  Singapore. 
Auxiliary  steamers  carrying  enough  coalto  make  the  pas- 
sage from  Noumea  to  Kupang,  a  distance  of  2,700  miles,  can 
take  the  Torres-strait  route.    The  anchorage  at  Kupang  is 
tolerably  good  at  this  season.    The  route  from  Kupang  to- 
Batavia  passes  through  Lombok  and  Madura  straits;  thence 
the  passage  is  direct  for  Singapore.    Vessels  will  be  com- 
pelled to  steam  nearly  the  whole  time. 
16  N 


242 


FROM   NOUMEA  TO   BATAVIA. 


1st  route. 


2d  route. 


But,  as  we  have  stated,  the  northerly  route  is  preferable 
for  sailing-vessels  and  auxiliary  steamers.  Once  to  east- 
ward of  Fairway  reef,  stand  to  the  northward,  and  pass 
between  the  Solomon  and  Santa  Cruz  islands.  From  this 
point  there  is  a  choice  between  two  routes. 

If  bound  to  Hong  Kong  or  Saigon,  make  to  the  northward, 
and  cross  the  line  between  162°  and  160°  E.  The  track 
passes  a  little  west  of  Knsaie  or  Ulan  island,  (Carolines;) 
and  either  E.  or  W.  of  the  Providence  isles,  according  to 
circumstances;  keep  north  of  the  Marianas,  or  between 
Grigon  and  Assumption,  and  enter  the  China  sea  by  the 
passage  north  of  the  Bashees.  For  further  information, 
vide  §  173. 

There  is  but  one  route  to  Yokohama.  Pass  to  westward 
of  the  Volcano  group,  aud  cross  30°  N.  a  little  west  of  the 
meridian  of  your  port.  Navigators  should  recollect  that 
the  Kuro  Siwo  sets  to  NE.,  (vide  §  37.) 

Vessels  bound  to  /Singapore  can  keep  to  the  eastward  of 
the  Solomon  islands,  and  then  skirt  them  either  to  N.  or  S. 
They  should  leave  New  Iceland  to  the  southward,  and  enter 
the  Celebes  sea  bypassing  between  the  Serangani  islands; 
reach  the  Sulu  sea  by  Basilan  strait  and  the  China  sea  by 
Balabac  strait.  Thence  to  Singapore  they  should  follow 
the  return  route  to  that  given  in  §  154  for  going  from  Sing- 
apore to  Palawan  passage.  Useful  instructions  concerning 
the  first  part  of  this  voyage  will  also  be  found  in  §  173. 

Passage  of  the  screw  Transport  Tarn,  Captain  Martin. — 
"Left  Noumea,  bound  to  Saigon,  on  the  14th  October. 
Steamed  for  36  hours.  Experienced  ENE.  and  E.  trades  as 
far  as  11°  S.  Here  the  wind  died  away ;  lighted  two  fires 
aud  steamed  1,500  miles  to  9°  N.  ;  dead  calm  all  the  way. 
Ship  to  eastward  of  the  Solomon  islands  on  the  19th  ;  sight- 
ed Ulan  island  on  the  26th.  Passed  between  Ulan  and  Pro- 
vidence islands  and  crossed  the  Mariana  group. 

Light  breeze  from  NNE.  on  the  28th,  latitude  9°  N.;  stop- 
ped the  engine  and  made  sail.  Settled  trades  on  the  29th. 
On  the  night  of  the  2d  aud  3d  November  ran  between  liota 
and  Agrigan  with  a  fine  breeze  from  ENE.  On  the  10th 
sighted  the  Balintang  islands,  and  doubled  Luzon  to  the 
northward  between  Balintang  and  Batan  island.  The  trades 
held  to  this  point;  but  instead  of  finding  the  NE.  monsoon 
in  the  China  sea,  the  wind  grew  light  and  shifted  to  E.,  SE., 


FROM  NEW  CALEDONIA  TO   SINGAPORE.  243 

and  SSE.,  with  raiu-squalls  and  calms.    As  the  wind  died 
away  completely  on  the  15th,  got  up  steam.     Made  cape 
Padaran  on  the  16th,  and  cape  St.  James  on  the  17th ;  an- 
chored the  same  day  at  Saigon,  after  a  passage  of  34  days." 
Passage  of  the  Saint  Michel,  Captain  Fradinfrom  New  Cal- 
edonia to  Singapore,  (Ann.  Hydr.,  vol.  23.) — u  Left  Noumea 
on  the  17th  November,  and  were  outside  the  coral  reefs  by 
noon;  wind  SB.;  gentle  breeze  until  the  20th,  when  we 
were  in  15°  40'  S.  and  161°  29'  B.    As  the  wind  showed 
signs  of  holding,  I  decided  to  run  W.  of  the  Solomon  group. 
The  wind  died  a  way  on  the  24th.   Eainy  weather  and  variable 
winds  from  S.andE.,  toN.on  the  25th.   Several  of  the  islands 
of  Solomon  group  in  sight  at  daylight  of  the  25th ;  ran  along 
the  coast  of  Hammond  island  at  a  distance  of  about  20  miles  ; 
at  noon,  point  Nepean  bore  about  NNB.    The  same  weather 
on  the  26th,  Dyston  island  about  20  miles  off.    The  weather 
still  rainy  and  the  wind  light  on  the  27th  and  28th ;  ship 
still  among  the  islands.     At  daylight  on  the  28th  the  largest 
of  the  Treasury  islands  bore  NE.  by  N.,  distance  25  miles. 
From  Noumea  to  the  Solomons  the  current  was  favorable, 
and  about  1  knot  per  hour;  among  the  islands  it  was  vari- 
able, but  generally  in  our  favor.    Position  at  noon  of  the 
28th,  7°  24'  S.  and  155°  06'  E.     Set  a  course  to  clear  the 
rocks  lying  NW.  of  the  Treasury  islands,  and  ran  up  along 
the  shore  of  Bougainville;  wind  light  and  variable.     Our 
dead-reckoning  put  us  at  daylight  on  the  29th  near  the  N\V. 
islet ;  instead,  we  had  been  set  far  to  WSW.     Headed  for 
Bougainville,  and  at  12.30  p.  m.  we  were  a  mile  and  a  half 
from  the  island,  in  22  fathoms,  good  holding-ground.     Po- 
sition 6°  52'  S.  and  154°  50'  E.    Continued  our  route  on  the 
29th,  and  at  daylight  of  the  30th  we  were  7  or  8  miles  off 
shore ;  fine  weather  and  very  light  breeze  from  SE.  to  E. 
At  8  a.  m.,  noticing  a  heavy  ground-swell  a  short  distance 
off,  sent  a  boat  to  examine  the  locality;  found  a  coral  reef 
825  feet  long  and  330  feet  broad,  with  3  to  6  fathoms  of  wa- 
ter over  it ;  position  of  reef,  5°  58'  50"  S.  and  154°  44'  57"  E. 
Bouka  island  is  in  sight  from  this  point,  but  well  to  NNW.; 
also  several  islets  lying  SE.  of  Bouka  island.    Kept  along 
the  coast  of  Bougainville  at  a  distance  of  6  or  7  miles.    At 
10h  45m  two  more  coral  rocks  reported,  one  on  each  bow; 
wind  being  light,  was  compelled  to  pass  between  them;  all 
clear  at  llh.    The  one  to  port  extended  from  NNE.  to  SSW., 
and  was  about  half  the  size  of  the  reef  met  in  the  morn- 


244  FROM  NEW   CALEDONIA   TO   SINGAPORE. 

ing.  The  oue  to  starboard  was  much  larger  than  its  neigh- 
bor and  extended  from  NW.  to  SE. ;  found  4i  fathoms  of 
water  upon  it;  position  5°  527  26"  S.  and  154°  3G'  24"  E., 
and  about  7  or  8  miles  off  the  coast  of  Bougainville.  Soon 
after  noon  we  sighted  four  islets  7  or  8  miles  off  Bouka. 
The  breeze  freshened  a  little,  and  we  passed  close  to  Sir 
Charles  Hardy  island.  Gentle  breeze  all  night  from  SE.  to 
ENE.  At  daylight,  on  the  1st  December,  sighted  what  we 
supposed  to  be  one  island,  but  on  coming  up  to  it  at  noon 
it  turned  out  to  be  four  islands.  At  4  p.  m.  the  north  point  of 
the  most  southern  island  bore  about  E.  Continued  on  a 
NNW.  course  and  sighted  St.  John  island,  bearing  NW.  by 
W. ;  it  has  at  a  distance  the  appearance  of  two  distinct 
islands.  At  6h  the  N.  point  of  the  most  northern  island 
bore  about  E.  Position  of  this  island,  4°  17'  S.  and  153° 
OO7  E.  Passed  close  to  eastward  of  St.  John  island,  and  at 
noon  on  the  2d  were  at  3°  437  S.  and  153°  537  E. ;  light 
winds  from  NW.  to  W. ;  sighted  Oraison  island,  bearing 
WNW. ;  and  Antoiny  Kaan  on  the  4th ;  position  at  noon, 
2o  457  S,  and  153°  30'  E.  Light  airs  during  the  night  of 
the  4th  and  5th.  Sir  Charles  Hardy  islands,  sometimes 
known  as  the  Green  islands,  extend  for  about  23  miles  in  a 
SSE.  and  NNW.  direction.  The  current  is  variable  and  the 
weather  uncertain  in  this  locality.  Light  NW.  breeze  on 
the  6th;  more  land  in  sight;  position,  2°  127  S.  and  153°  327 
E.  Hauled  the  starboard  tacks  on  board  on  the  7th,  with 
breeze  from  N  W.  to  NE. ;  position,  IP  56'  S.  and  153°  237 
E.  Same  weather  on  the  8th  ;  position,  1°  41/'S.  and  153° 
21'  E.  Light  squalls  from  NE.  and  N.  on  the  9th ;  position 
1°  037  S.,  and  152°  54'  E. ;  swell,  etc.,  showing  us  we  were  in 
shoal  water,  probably  over  Syra  shoal.  On  the  10th,  llth, 
and  12th,  light  breezes  and  strong  currents  against  us. 
Wind  freshened  a  little  from  NE.  on  the  13th  and  14th  ; 
position  at  noon  on  the  14th,  1°  3V  N.  and  150°  2S7  E. 
Breeze  a  little  fresher  on  the  15th,  16th,  and  17th ;  current 
setting  W.  and  SW. ;  position  on  the  17th,  4°  457  N.  and 
144°  2 17  E.  From  the  17th  to  the  20th  variable  winds,  with 
squalls,  after  which  the  wind  generally  came  out  from  NE. 
to  N.;  position,  5°  067  N.  and  136°  507  E.  Position  on  the 
21st,  5°  237  N.  and  134°  557  E. ;  headed  for  the  passage  be- 
tween St.  Andrew's  and  Current  islands.  Position  on  the 
22d,  5°  027  N.  and  132°  207  E.  Strong  and  very  variable 


FROM  NEW   CALEDONIA   TO   SINGAPORE.  245 

currents  from  the  17th  to  25th.  Kan  between  Palmas  and 
Meangis  islands,  but  did  not  see  them  as  we  made  the  pas- 
sage during  the  night  of  the  24th  and  25th.  At  daybreak 
on  the  25th  sighted  Mindanao,  Serangani,  and  Hummock 
islands ;  passed  south  of  the  two  latter.  At  9  a.  m.  E.  point 
of  Serangani  bore  N.  13°  E.,  and  the  W.  point  of  Hummock 
•N.  340  W.  From  the  25th  to  the  30th  light  baffling  airs 
and  calms,  and  strong  tidal  currents,  alternately  favorable 
and  contrary.  On  the  evening  of  the  29th  sighted  Sibago 
islands,  situated  near  the  entrance  to  Basilan  strait ;  gentle 
breezes  from  NE.  to  NNE.  Entered  the  strait  about  mid- 
night, with  fresh  breeze,  made  little  headway  about  2  a.  m.. 
as  the  flood  was  running  strong  against  us;  tide  turned 
about  dawn,  when  we  soon  cleared  the  strait.  Strength  of 
tide  from  4  to  5  knots.  Passed  the  town  of  Samboangan  at 
7  a.  m.  Position  at  noon  on  the  30th,  6°  52'  N.  and  121°  48' 
E.  On  the  31st  at  daylight  we  entered  the  Sulu  sea,  and 
were  becalmed  off  the  western  shore  of  the  group  of  islands 
situated  to  the  westward  of  the  strait.  It  is  best  to  leave 
them  to  port.  Fresh  breeze  from  NNE.  and  NE.  during  the 
middle  of  the  day;  steered  for  Balabec  strait.  Lagayau 
Sulu  was  in  sight  at  daylight  of  January  1st.  Shaped  our 
course  to  pass  to  N.  of  the  principal  island  and  between  it 
and  the  islet  closest  to  it;  but  as  soon  as  I  saw  the  pass,  de- 
cided to  run  between  the  islet  and  the  other  small  islands 
lying  to  the  N. ;  were  to  the  westward  of  this  group  at  9.30 
a.  m.  My  impression  is,  however,  that  either  of  the  above- 
mentioned  passages  can  be  taken  in  very  clear  weather,  but 
in  ordinary  weather  it  is  best  to  run  well  north  of  them  all. 
Position  at  noon  7°  09'  N.  and  118°  02'  E. ;  gentle  wind 
from  NE.  and  NNE.  The  islands  we  had  just  left,  the  en- 
trance to  Balabac  strait,  and  Banguey  island  were  all  in 
sight  at  sundown.  Kept  under  low  sail  during  the  night,  as 
we  did  not  wish  to  run  through  the  strait  before  daylight; 
sounded  and  found  about  10  fathoms,  bottom  clay  and  mud ; 
at  8.30  p.  m.,  vessel  touched,  but  was  off'  again  in  2  or  3  min- 
utes, ran  clear  of  the  bank  on  the  starboard  tack,  and  an- 
chored in  10  or  11  fathoms  of  water ;  reefs  to  southward  and 
eastward,  but  the  sea  appeared  clear  between  SE.  and  NE. 
Mangsee  islands  bore  N.  distant  about  8  or  9  miles.  Be- 
tween our  anchorage  and  Mangsee  (Mangui)  islands  there  was  . 
a  reef  of  rocks  and  sand,  covered  at  high  water.  The  E. 


246  FROM  NEW  CALEDONIA   TO   SINGAPORE. 

point  of  this  bank  bore  NNE-,  and  the  W.  point 
there  is  a  passage  between  it  and  the  most  northern  of  the 
5  islets,*  there  is  also  a  passage  between  the  bank  and  the 
Mangsee  islands.  This  last  passage  seemed  to  be  the  best, 
but  we  could  riot  fetch  it  under  sail,  and  passed  between 
the  W.  point  of  the  bank  and  the  islet.  At  9.30  we  were  in 
the  center  of  the  main  channel,  steering  for  Banguey  island  ; 
Balambangan  being  a  little  on  the  starboard  bow.  Sighted 
all  the  dangers  put  down  on  the  charts  as  situated  SW. 
and  W.  of  the  Mangsee  islands;  left  them  on  our  starboard 
hand.  The  soundings  showed  from  13  to  22  fathoms. 
Therefore  vessels  should  not  attempt  to  run  through  Balabac 
strait  at  night,  and  should  keep  a  man  at  the  masthead 
if  the  passage  is  made  during  the  day.  I  also  think 
that  the  best  pass  is  the  one  between  the  Mangsee  islands 
and  the  reef  of  rocks  and  sand.  Keep  a  sharp  lookout  if  it 
be  covered ;  pass  close  to  port  of  the  Mangsee  islands,  and 
head  a  little  to  starboard  of  the  most  northern  islet;  you  will 
thus  run  to  starboard  of  the  bank,  which  can  always  be 
seen  in  the  daytime.  The  dangers  SW.  and  W.  of  the 
Mangsee  islands  should  be  left  on  your  starboard  hand- 
On  the  2d  January,  about  10.30  a.  m.,  we  were  clear  of  the 
strait  and  in  the  China  sea.  No  observation  at  noon,  as  the 
weather  was  squally ;  fine  weather  during  the  afternoon ; 
wind  from  NB.  to  EXE.  Same  weather  on  the  3d ;  position 
6°  33'  N.  and  113°  54'  E.  •  ship  making  7  knots  •  steered  to 
double  Louisa  reefs  to  the  northward.  They  were  in  sight 
and  only  half  a  mile  off  to  the  S.  at  5.30  p.  m.j  only  a  few 
rocks  showed  above  the  water.  Continued  fine  weather  on 
the  4th  and  5th;  currents  setting  to  S.  and  SW.  Some 
very  large  trees  drifted  past  us.  At  noon  on  the  5th  raised 
point  Pulo-Laut  and  Solo-Kong  bearing  NW.  by  N.  £N.; 
shaped  the  course  to  pass  between  Pulo-Laut  and  Great 
Xatuna.  At  5  p.  m.  sighted  the  SW.  point  of  Pulo  to  the 
northward ;  at  6  p.  m.  Semoiue  islet  bo«e  W.  and  '  the  Rock' 
S.  by  E. ;  the  latter  distan-t  14  miles,  and  Semoine  8  miles. 
"  Weather  still  fine.  Passed  close  to  N.  of  Anambas 
islands,  on  the  6th  ;  position  at  noon  3°  25'  N.  and  105°  49' 
E. ;  at  4  p.  m.  the  most  western  of  the  Anambas  islands 
bore  about  S.,  distant  3  or  4  miles  ;  thence  we  steered  for 
Singapore  strait ;  at  8  p.  rn.  made  out  the  •  Rock,'  situated 
SWT.  of  Mobur. 


FROM  NEW   CALEDONIA   TO   TAHITI.  247 

"At  daylight  ou  the  7th  we  were  off  the  strait;  and  at  10 
a.  m.  inside  Pedra-Branca  light.  Anchored  at  Singapore  in 
the  evening  after  a  passage  of  51  days  from  Noumea." 

§  140.  ROUTE  FROM  NEW  CALEDONIA  TO  TAHITI.— 
This  is  a  difficult  route  for  sailing-vessels.  For  information 
concerning  the  first  part  of  the  voyage  the  reader  should 
refer  to  §  108 ;  we  would  especially  call  attention  to  the 
instructions  for  doubling  New  Zealand  to  the  northward. 

The  meridian  of  cape  Otou  or  that  of  the  bay  of  Islands 
once  passed,  the  difficult  portion  of  the  voyage  is  over. 
Vessels  should  stand  to  the  eastward  with  the  prevalent 
though  variable  west  winds.  No  rule  can  be  given  as  to 
where  a  ship  will  strike  these  winds,  as  they  are  liable  to 
be  found  on  very  different  parallels,  even  during  the  same 
season.  However,  it  will  generally  be  the  best  plan  to 
make  the  following  crossings  : 

In  January,  cross  35°  B.  between  178°  E.  and  178°  W. ;  fol- 
low 30°  or  37°  S.  from  178°  W.  to  163°  W. ;  cross  35°  S.  at 
155°  W. ;  30°  S.  at  151°  W. ;  25°  and  20°  S.  near  149°  W. 

In  February,  follow  30°  or  37°  S.,  from  178°  W.  to  150° 
W. ;  cross  35°  S.  at  148°  W.;  thence  make  the  northing  to 
25°  S.  ;  and  steer  for  Tahiti. 

In  March,  follow  35°  or  30°  S.  to  158°  W. ;  and  thence 
steer  so  as  to  reach  the  tropic  near  149°  W.  The  SE. 
winds  will  often  allow  this  route  to  be  followed. 

In  April,  the  south  winds  will  frequently  enable  vessels 
to  run  north  of  the  Kermadec  islands.  They  should  after- 
ward cross  30°  S.  at  108°  W.;  31°  S.  at  163°  W. ;  30°  S. 
again  at  153°  W. ;  arid  thence  running  E.  of  Tubuai  for 
Tahiti. 

In.  May,  vessels  usually  pass  N.  of  the  Kermadec  group, 
with  the  south  winds,  which  then  incline  both  to  the  east- 
ward and  westward. 

There  is  no  need  of  running  into  a  higher  latitude  than 
28°  S. ;  cross  25°  S.  near  158°  W. ;  pass  between  Rurutu 
and  Tubuai;  cross  20°  S.  near  149°  W.;  and  thence  for 
Tahiti. 

In  June,  the  same  route.  After  running  down  the  east- 
ing on  28°  or  27°  S.,  cross  26°  S.  near  158°  VV. ;  and  thence 
head  for  Tahiti. 

In  July,  vessels  will  usually  be  compelled  to  pass  S.  of 
the  Kermadec  group;  and  thence  steer  directly  for  27°  S. 


248  FROM  NEW   CALEDONIA   TO   TAHITI. 

between  154°  and  156°  W. ;  after  crossing  25°  S.  near  151° 
W.,  they  should  run  E.  of  Tubuai. 

In  August,  the  Kermadecs  can  easily  be  cleared  to  south- 
ward ;  thence  the  track  reaches  30°  S.  between  153°  and 
155°  W.,  and  runs  to  eastward  of  Tubuai. 

From  September  to  January,  pass  to  southward  of  the 
Kerinadec  group.  In  September,  keep  between  32°  and  33° 
S.  until  you  reach  153°  W. ;  cross  25°  S.  at  149°  or  150° 
W.,  and  run  east  of  Tubuai.  In  October,  reach  34°  S.  as 
soon  as  possible  and  at  about  180° ;  and  keep  between  34° 
and  35°  S.  until  across  166°  or  164°  W. ;  cross  30°  S.  be- 
tween 153°  and  154°  W. ;  sight  Tubuai ;  and  make  20°  S. 
near  150°  W.  In  November,  the  same  route  on  34°  S.  to 
about  160°  W. ;  cross  30°  S.  between  152°  and  153°  W., 
and  pass  to  windward  of  Tubuai.  In  December,  a  ship  can 
reach  35°  S.  between  175°  and  177°  W.,  and  thence  keep 
between  36°  and  37°  S.  until  she  is  near  152°  or  150C  W. ; 
she  should  cross  35°  S.  at  148°  W.,  and  30°  S.  at  146°  W., 
passing  either  E.  or  W.  of  Lancaster  reef,  according  to  cir- 
cumstances; to  eastward  of  Vavitaoj  and  then  heading 
for  Tahiti. 

As  already  stated  in  §  108,  the  worst  months  for  doubling 
New  Zealand  are  those  between  September  and  February. 
Voyages  will  usually  be  long  at  this  season  ;  still  a  good 
sailer  can  generally  make  the  passage  from  New  Caledonia 
to  Tahiti  in  from  50  to  55  days. 

We.  can  also  conclude  from  the  foregoing  facts  that  the 
NW.  monsoon  only  prevails,  in  the  western  part  of  the 
South  Pacific,  to  the  northward  of  New  Caledonia.  On  the 
contrary,  south  of  20°  S.  the  SE.  trades,  though  variable, 
exist  during  the  entire  year,  their  southern  limit  following 
the  declination  of  the  sun  the  same  in  these  localities 
as  elsewhere. 

Abstract  from  the  log  of  the  sailing-transport  Bonite,  (Ann. 
Hydr.,  vol.  21.) — *4  Left  Noumea  on  the  2d  August ;  becalmed 
between  the  Signal  island  and  Dumbea  passage ;  breeze 
springing  up  from  SSE.  in  the  afternoon,  we  were  outside 
the  reef  at  4  p.  m.  Very  fine  weather  till  the  5th,  wind 
hauling  from  SE.  to  E.  and  NE.  It  shifted  on  the  6th  to 
NW.  and  NNW.,  bringing  very  rainy  weather.  On  the 
night  of  the  6th  and  7th  passed  close  to  southward  of  Nor- 
folk ;  light  wind  from  SSVV.  to  SSE.  Captain  Jotian  wished 


FIIOM  NEW   CALEDONIA    TO   TAHITI.  249 

to  sight  Kaoul  (Kermadec  group)  in  order  to  correct  the 
chronometers;  but  on  the  night  of  the  llth  and  ll'tli,  after 
excessive  lightning  to  eastward,  the  wind  hauled  to  ESK. 
and  headed  him  off  to  the  northward.  Position  on  the  13th, 
27°  S.  and  170°  W.  As  we  could  make  neither  northing 
nor  easting,  went  about  on  the  south  tack ;  stood  on  till  we 
reached  32°  S. ;  the  wind  shifting  successively  from  E.  to 
NE.  and  NW.,  with  rain  and  very  heavy  sea,  then  to  W. 
and  SW.  On  the  20th,  the  wind  being  steady  from  S\V., 
headed  KB.  for  Vavitao  island ;  but  the  breeze  soon  shifted 
to  the  eastward  and  we  were  compelled  to  again  run  south 
of  30°  S. ;  near  140°  W.  moderate  winds  from  W.,  S.,  and 
SSE.  On  the  27th  sighted  Kapa  to  NNE.  distant  42  miles. 
From  Noumea  to  Kapa  island  noted  a  current  of  3  miles 
per  day  setting  to  the  westward.  After  leaving  Kapa  the 
winds  were  from  E.  to  NE.  Sighted  Mehelia*  on  the  1st  of 
September,  and  anchored  at  Tahiti  on  the  2d,  after  a  pass- 
age of  31  days."  Captain  Jouan  states  that  the  Bonite  was 
a  slow  sailer ;  and  that  he  would  have  gained  at  least  4 
days  if  he  had  not  attempted  to  sight  Kaoul  island.  He 
thinks  that  he  ought  to  have  passed  through,  or  even  to 
southward  of  the  Kermadec  group,  and  followed  30°  or  31° 
S. 'until  he  reached  the  meridian  of  Kapa,  instead  of  at- 
tempting, as  he  did,  to  steer  for  Vavitao.  Between  29° 
and  32°  S.  the  rotation  of  the  wind  was  in  accordance  with 
the  law  for  this  hemisphere,  viz,  from  SSE.  to  E.  and  NE., 
fine  weather;  then  to^NNE.  with  stiff  breeze  blowing  in  gusts, 
overcast  sky,  close  heavy  weather,  and  falling  barometer; 
then  a  very  fresh  IS  W.  wind  with  rain  ;  and  last  to  WNW., 
W.,  and  frequently  a  sudden  squall  from  SW.  The  sea 
having  risen  quickly,  then  commenced  to  grow  smoother; 
the  barometer  rose,  and  the  weather  was  fine  when  the 
wind  got  back  to  S.  and  SSE.  It  generally  takes  the  wind 
5  or  6  days  to  make  the  complete  rotation. 

The  following  quotation  from  the  Ann.  Uydr.,  vol.  28, 
refers  to  the  passage  made  by  the  /«•/«,  Captain  Biuet,  dur- 
ing the  mouths  of  April  and  May: 

"Applying  the  experience  I  had  gained  by  my  preceding 
voyages,  I  beat  to  the  southward  in  search  of  the  favorable 
winds ;  these  I  found  near  the  parallel  of  33°  S.  They 
varied  from  N.  to  WSW. ;  and  I  ran  from  the  meridian  of 

*  Mehelia  should  probably  read  Maitea. — Translator. 


250  FROM  NEW  CALEDONIA   TO   TAHITI. 

cape  Otou  to  Tubuai  island  in  12  days.  I  headed  for 
Tubuai  after  reaching  160°  W.,  and  ran  from  this  island  to 
Tahiti  with  light  trades,  varying-from  E.  to  SSE." 

Captain  Eichard  Foy  remarks  as  follows  on  this  passage, 
(Ann  Hydr.,  vol.  29:) 

"  Setting  sail  from  Noumea  you  will  first  have  the  wind 
abeam,  and  as  soon  as  you  have  cleared  the  small  pass, 
well  abaft  the  beam.  Take  the  SW.  outer  pass;  leaving 
Prony  ledge  to  port  or  to  windward,  and  the  Signal  island 
to  starboard.  Once  outside,  brace  up  and  make  for  the 
variables.  Vessels  generally  keep  between  30°  and  36°  S., 
but  sometimes  have  to  run  as  far  south  as  40°  in  search  of 
the  W.  wind,  when  they  again  bear  to  the  north  and  sight 
Kemin  island.  It  is  flat,  wedge-shaped,  and  slopes  to  the 
W.  Or  the  tropic  can  be  crossed  near  158°  W.  Approach 
Bora-bora  or  Moorea,  and  then  go  about  for  Tahiti.  The 
average  length  of  the  passage  is  42  days,  the  worst  part 
being  between  30°  and  36°  S." 

We  will  close  our  remarks  on  this  route  with  the  follow- 
ing quotations,  relating  to  the  voyages  of  the  Alceste  and 
Sibylle : 

First  passage  of  the  Alceste,  Captain  Brosset. — '•'  The  route 
from  New  Caledonia  to  Tahiti  is  as  follows:  first,  through 
the  SE.  trades  to  32°  or  33°  S.,  in  search  of  the  W.  winds  j 
it  passes  N.  of  New  Zealand  and  S.  of  the  Kermadec  group ; 
thence  it  follows  the  arc  of  a  great  circle,  and  again  enters 
the  trades  near  the  meridian  of  Tahiti,  and  thence  makes 
directly  for  that  island. 

"As  the  wind  was  not  favorable  at  the  commencement  of 
our  passage,  we  could  not  follow  this  route. 

•"  Left  Noumea  on  the  10th  September.  Calms  and  light 
airs  from  ESE.,  SE.,  and  SW.,  during  the  first  three  days; 
only  180  miles  to  southward  of  my  point  of  departure  on 
the  13th.  The  wind  then  becoming  settled  from  SSE.  and 
S.,  I  decided  to  haul  up  on  the  E.  tack,  and  reached 
175o  59'  E.  and  26°  06'  S.  On  the  17th,  the  wind  having 
headed  me  off  and  hauled  to  ESE.,  I  went  about.  As  I 
approached  New  Zealand  the  weather  became  squally  and 
threatening.  On  the  20th  the  wind  shifted  to  SE.,  SSE., 
and  SW.,  and  blew  a  gale;  the  barometer  fell  to  29in.49; 
the  sea  became  enormous,  and  the  wind  having  changed,  I 
again  went  about  on  the  starboard  tack,  but  could  not 


FUOM   NEW   CALEDONIA   TO   TAHITI.  251 

make  anything  to  the  eastward,  as  the  heavy  head  sea, 
caused  by  the  previous  ^wind,  greatly  deadened  the  head- 
way of  the  vessel.  I  was  then  in  32°  S.  and  174°  E.,  south 
of  the  Kermadecs,  which  I  had  doubled  in  moderate 
weather.  I  bore  up  about  midnight  and  headed  to  clear 
the  N.  point  of  ttaoul  island.  During  the  bad  weather,  of 
which  we  have  just  spoken,  the  wind  shifted  in  a  direction 
corresponding  to  that  of  the  hands  of  a  watch ;  that  is 
contrary  to  its  usual  manner  in  these  latitudes.  I  kept 
between  30°  and  31°  S.  till  I  reached  155°  W.;  fine  weather, 
and  moderate  wind  from  SW.  to  SSW.,  and  from  S.  to  SSE. 
Stood  to  the  northward  after  crossing  155°  W.  at  30°  30'  S.; 
steady  wind  from  ESE.  to  E.,  all  the  way  to  Tahiti.  The 
trade  limit  seemed  to  lie  between  30°  and  31°  S. ;  though  I 
made  my  easting. between  these  parallels  I  experienced  no 
calms  or  baffling  airs.  I  proved  several  times  that  the  least 
deviation  to  the  northward  of  my  route  caused  a  shift  of 
wind  to  SSE.;  while  if  I  headed,  even  a  trifle,  to  the  south- 
ward, the  wind  was  inclined  to  haul  to  SSW.  or  even  SW. 

"  Despite  all  detentions,  I  made  the  passage  from  Noumea 
to  Tahiti  in  25  days." 

Second  passage  of  the  Aleeste,  Captain  Brosset,  (Ann. 
Hydr.,  1871.)— "Left  New  Caledonia  for  Tahiti  on  the  7th 
October.  Found  the  wind  from  E.,  and  ran  due  south. 
Passed  close  to  westward  of  Norfolk  island.  Lost  the 
trades  at  30°  S.,  and  after  24  hours  of  calms  and  light  airs 
struck  the  west  winds.  Passed  between  New  Zealand  and 
the  Kermadec  islands;  and  ran  down  my  longitude  on  32° 
S. ;  wind  on  this  parallel  steady  between  N.  and  W.  After 
crossing  155°  W.  bore  to  the  northward.  Met  the  trades  at 
31°  S.,  and  assisted  by  them  reached  Tnbuai  on  my  19th 
day  out.  Calms,  squalls,  and  variable  winds  from  N.,  NE., 
and  N  W.  during  the  remainder  of  the  passage.  Did  not  reach 
Papiete  until  the  2d  November,  after  a  passage  of  -7  days. 

"  When  the  trades  haul  to  SSE.,  near  New  Caledonia,  as 
they  are  likely  to  do,  I  think  it  is  best  to  haul  up  on  the 
starboard  tack.  If  a  vessel  keeps  on  the  port  tack  she  will 
be  set  far  to  the  westward  and  lose  much  time.  In  the  pre- 
ceding voyage  I  met  the  SSE.  winds  150  miles  S.  of  Noumea; 
and  by  hauling  up  on  the  starboard  tack  made  a  good 
passage." 

Passage  of  the   Sibylle,  Captain   Brossolet,  (Ann.  Hydr.. 


252  FROM  NEW   CALEDONIA   TO   NEW    ZEALAND. 

1871.)— "Left  New  Caledonia  on  the  14th  December  anil 
arrived  at  Papiete  on  the  15th  January.  Experienced  fre- 
quent calms.  The  passage,  however,  would  have  been 
made  in  20  days  if  I  had  not  met  a  series  of  squalls  and 
local  head  winds  off  the  coast  of  Papiete.  I  learned  at 
Papiete  that  the  weather  was  exceptional.  1  therefore  am 
of  the  opinion  that  vessels  should  head  straight  for  Papiete, 
if  the  wind  permit,  after,  they  reach  the  latitude  of  Norfolk 
island ;  and  that  the  passage  is  usually  made  too  far  to  the 
southward.  Each  time  I  went  south  of  Norfolk  island  I 
met  calms.  Some  authors  advise  vessels  to  keep  to  the 
northward  immediately,  in  the  rainy  season,  but  this  seems 
hardly  advisable,  as  the  dangers  from  reefs  and  gales,  as 
well  as  the  hot  weather,  counterbalance  the  slight  chances 
of  meeting  west  winds." 

§  141.  ROUTE  FROM  NEW  CALEDONIA  TO  NEW  ZEA- 
LAND.— The  length  of  this  passage  is  quite  variable,  and 
the  route  differs  according  to  the  port  of  destination. 
BoundtoAuck-      Vessels  bound  to  Auckland  should  set  the  course  as  if 

land. 

they  were  going  to  Tahiti,  (vide  §  140,)  or  should  follow  the 
instructions  concerning  the  first  part  of  the  voyage  to 
Europe,  (vide  §  108.) 

By  referring  to  §  108,  it  will  be  seen  that  from  September 
to  February  advantage  should  be  taken  of  every  shift  in 
the  trades,  in  order  to  make  as  much  to  the  southward  and 
eastward  as  possible.  It  will  probably  be  found  difficult  at 
this  season  to  reach  the  meridian  of  the  bay  of  Islands ; 
but  from  March  to  July  vessels  can  commence  to  make 
easting  soon  after  leaving  Noumea,  and  can  run  to  the 
southward  at  any  time. 

Vessels  bound  to  Port  Nicholson  or  Otago  should  run 
south,  rap-full,  with  the  east  winds;  and  when  they  have 
reached  the  prevalent  west  winds,  still  keep  to  the  south- 
ward, being  careful  not  to  get  too  close  to  the  west  coast  of 
New  Zealand.  They  should  take  Cook's  strait,  (vide  §  107,) 
if  bound  to  Port  Nicholson;  and  Foveaux  strait,  (vide  §  107.) 
if  bound  to  Otago. 

We  will  complete  our  instructions  on  this  route  by  giving 
an  account  of  two  voyages  made  by  the  Bonite,  Captain 
Jouan,  (Ann.  Hydr.,  vol.  26  :) 

"First  passage.—  Left  Noumea  on  the  llth  November,  1861. 
Encountered  a  series  of  winds  from  SSE.  to  ENE.,  blowing 


FROM   NEW   CALEDONIA   TO   THE   SANDWICH   ISLANDS.  253 

a.  tfalu,  with  rain,  and  a  very  heavy  sea.  Put  in  to  the  bay 
of  Islands  on  the  2d  of  December.  Experienced  a  series 
of  heavy  squalls  iu  this  short  distance,  which  delayed  me 
for  some  days.  Although  it  was  the  middle  of  summer  we 
had  as  bad  weather  as  is  usual  during  the  winter  months, 
except  that  it  was  warmer.  We  were  21  days  from  Noumea 
to  the  bay  of  Islands,  and  6  days  from  the  bay  to  Auckland. 
The  barometer,  during  all  this  time,  did  not  at  all  corre- 
spond to  the  changes  in  the  weather;  it  varied  from  29in.72 
to  30iQ.04. 

"Second  pansagc. — Fine  weather  all  the  voyage.  Left  Nou- 
mea on  the  IGth  November,  1862,  with  a  stiff  wind  from  E. ; 
it  soon  grew  light  and  shifted  to  NNE.  and  N.  Anchored 
at  Auckland  on  the  morning  of  the  llth  day;  heavy  dews 
near  the  coast  of  New  Zealand  ;  barometer  steady  between 
29in.9G  and  30in.12;  temperature  of  the  air  between  75°  and 
68°;  water  the  same,  except  near  the  shore,  where  it  was 
about  2°  lower.  Tbe  currents  set  to  SE.,  speed  about  17 
miles  per  day.'7 

§  142.  KOUTE  FROM  NEW  CALEDONIA,  OR  THE  FiJ 
TO  THE  SANDWICH  ISLANDS. — On  leaving  New  Caledonia, 
a  ship  should  follow  the  instructions  given  in  §  108.  It  will 
not,  however,  be  necessary  from  November  to  March  to  run 
lower  than  3G°  or  38°  S.,  and  only  to  33°  or  35°  S.  from 
March  to  November.  Pass  either  N.  or  S.  of  the  Kermadec 
islands,  according  to  the  season,  as  stated  in  §  140,  and 
do  not  bear  to  the  N.  until  135°  or  134°  W.  is  reached. 
The  course  should  be  laid  so  as  to  pass  S.  of  Pitcairn  island 
and  thence  east  of  the  Paumotas  and  Marquesas;  head  to 
strike  the  NE.  trades  between  5°  and  10°  N.  and  133°  and 
138°  W.  From  this  point  the  route  is  easy  if  you  are  care- 
ful to  keep  to  windward  of  Hawaii,  (vide  §§  128  and  135.) 

If  thep^utof  departure  be  the  Fiji  or  Tonga  islands, 
take  the  southerly  route  just-described.  Run  through  the 
SE.  trades  on  the  port  tack;  the  west  winds  will  generally 
be  found  near  30°  S.  Strike  the  SE.  trades  again  to  east- 
ward of  the  Paumotas.  This  is  the  shortest  and  surest  route.* 

Wilkes,  however,  advises  a  direct  route  for  vessels  leav- 

*  Vessels  can  also  run  through  the  SE.  and  NE.  trades  on  the  star- 
board tack  and  make  their  easting  near  30°  N.  This  is  the  preferable 
route  for  vessels  leaving  the  Tongas  between  October  and  March,  and 
always  the  best  for  ships  from  the  Samoas. 


254  FEOM   THE   FIJIS   TO   THE   SANDWICH  ISLANDS. 

log  the  Fijis,  or  any  point  E.  of  the  180th  meridian.  His 
route  does  not,  of  course,  apply  to  vessels  whose  point  of 
departure  is  Noumea,  nor  would  we  advise  navigators  to 
follow  it  in  any  case. 

As  the  vessels  of  the  U.  S.  squadron  parted  company  as 
soon  as  they  were  clear  of  the  Fiji  group  and  made  the 
passage  to  the  Sandwich  islands  by  entirely  different  routes, 
much  useful  information  may  be  drawn  by  a  perusal  of  the 
logs  of  the  several  ships : 

"After  the  squadron  had  cleared  the  reefs  of  Mali  pas- 
sage, (Yanua-Leou,)  I  made  signal  to  the  Porpoise  to  part 
company  for  the  purpose  of  visiting  the  eastern  part  of  the 
group.  I  afterward  dispatched  the  Flying-Fish  to  run 
along  the  sea -reef  as  far  as  Hound  island  before  shaping 
her  course  for  the  Sandwich  islands. 

tlie  "The  Vincennes  and  Peacock  parted  company  on  the 
evening  of  the  14th  August.  We  stood  to  the  northward 
on  the  meridian  of  17G°  E.,  and  kept  the  SE.  trades  until 
we  reached  the  8th  parallel  of  south  latitude,  when  we 
struck  an  ENE.  wind  and  a  long  swell  from  the  same  direc- 
tion. The  weather  was  fine  and  the  wind  light.  On  the 
19th  we  made  an  island  in  the  neighborhood  of  the  position 
assigned  to  Keniiu  or  Gardner  island,  and  remained  a  day 
to  make  observations.  The 'next  day  another  island  was 
discovered  from  the  mast  head.  I  called  it  McKeau  island, 
after  the  man  who  first  sighted  it.  It  is  about  a  degree 
north  of  Gardner  island.  On  the  21st  we  had  showers  of 
rain  accompanied  with  a  light  wind  from  the  westward. 
On  the  22d  we  again  had  a  light  breeze  from  the  northward 
and  westward,  and,  what  surprised  me,  a  heavy  rolling  sea 
from  SW.,  toward  which  quarter  we  experienced  a  current 
of  some  strength.  On  the  three  following  days  the  wind 
was  light  and  variable,  and  the  weather  squally^ 

"We  remained  10  days  among  the  islands  of  tlie  Phoenix 
group. 

aOn  the  4th  September  we  crossed  the  line  in  longitude 
167°  4o'  30"  W.  with  delightful  weather,  but  met  no  west- 
erly winds.  I  put  the  ship's  head  to  the  northward  and  ran 
up  to  8°  N".  before  meeting  settled  weather  or  the  NE. 
trades.  On  the  12th  the  wind  hauled  to  northeast,  when  I 
tacked  to  the  southward  and  eastward,  but  soon  went  about 
again,  deeming  it  advisable  to  run  at  once  through  the 


FROM  THE  FIJIS  TO   THE   SANDWICH  ISLANDS. 

trades.  On  the  17th  we  were  about  200  miles  to  westward 
of  Oalju.  I  determined  to  beat  up  for  it,  and  on  the  20th 
made  the  island  of  Kauai.  On  the  23d  September  we  an- 
chored at  Honolulu  after  a  passage  of  41  days,  of  which 
10  were  passed  in  exploring  the  Phoenix  group." 

"  The  Peacock  took  a  different  route.    Captain  Hudson  IV£jJJ5*e  of  tbe 
continued  to  the  northward  and  crossed  the  line  on  the  27th 
August  at  about  177°  W.,  or  420  miles  to  westward  of  the 
Vincennes. 

"The  winds,  until  the  latitude  of  3°  S.,  were  from  east, 
after  which  they  became  more  variable  between  NE.  and 
SE.,  accompanied  with  light  squalls  of  rain  and  frequent 
lightning.  The  weather  was  at  times  hot  and  sultry.  Be- 
tween tbe  latitudes  of  5°  and  8°  N.  the  Peacock  experienced 
a  similar  current  with  ourselves,  setting  northeast;  wind 
and  weather  still  variable.  On  the  8th  September  in  lati- 
tude 14°  N.,  the  wind  hauling  to  NB.,  she  tacked  to  the 
southward  until  the  17th,  when,  having  reached  the  longi- 
tude of  1GO°  21'  W.,  her  head  was  again  put  to  the  north. 
They  continued  to  have  squalls  and  variable  winds,  with  a 
current  setting  to  the  westward,  and  lost  much  time  owing 
to  the  lightness  of  the  winds.  On  the  30th  September  the 
Peacock  reached  Oahu  ;  50  days  at  sea. 

uOn  the  10th  September  the  Porpoise  left  the  Sarnoas  for    Passage  of  the 

Porpoise  from  the 

the  Hawaiian  islands.  In  this  passage  they  experienced  simi 
lar  weather  and  winds  to  those  described  in  speaking  of  the 
passage  of  the  Vincennes.  They  crossed  the  equator  in  16C° 
W.  They  had  the  ESE.  and  E.  winds  until  5°  N.  Between 
that  and  latitude  10°  N.,  they  experienced  the  same  easterly 
current  that  we  had  done.  In  that  latitude  the  NE.  winds 
were  fallen  in  with,  accompanied  with  squalls  of  rain,  and 
sometimes  of  wind.  The  whole  passage  from  the  Sarnoas 
was  made  in  27  days,  and  the  time  from  the  line  to  the 
Sandwich  islands  was  17  days,  while  the  Vincennes  and 
Peacock  took  respectively  26  and  33  days.  Still  I  would 
not  state  positively  that  this  result  shows  that  the  Por- 
poise crossing  is  the  best,  for  it  should  be  remembered 
that  the  Samoas  are  more  than  500  miles  to  windward  of 
the  point  where  the  other  two  ships  crossed  the  same  paral- 
lel. I  think,  however,  that  it  is  always  well  to  cross  the 
equator  well  to  the  eastward,  as  the  SE.  winds  can  be 


256  FROM   NEW  ZEALAND   TO   EUROPE. 

longer  kept  and  the  calms  are  fewer.  The  Porpoise  also 
found  the  NE.  trades  steadier  and  more  favorable  than  we 
did. 

f  tbe  "  ^e  Tender  crossed  the  equator  in  longitude  166°  W., 
(same  crossing  as  Porpoise.)  She  passed  to  eastward  of  all 
the  small  groups  and  kept  the  SE.  trades  longer  than  the 
other  vessels.  The  weather  they  experienced  seems  to  have 
been  much  of  the  same  kind  as  heretofore  described ;  there 
was  little  interruption  of  the  easterly  winds,  and  the  Ten- 
der being  a  very  fine  sailer  made  the  voyage  in  33  days. 

"The  length  of  these  passages  can  be  considered  as 
nearly  the  same  when  we  take  into  consideration  the  differ- 
ent classes  of  the  vessels  of  the  squadron. 

u  The  westerly  current,  on  the  same  parallels,  was  found 
to  be  greater  by  the  vessels  which  took  the  west  route  than 
they  were  by  those  which  crossed  the  line  well  to  the  east- 
ward. A  northeasterly  current  was  found  to  affect  all  of 
them  in  latitudes  from  4°  to  9°  N.,  while  a  westerly  current, 
running  at  a  rate  of  15  miles  per  day,  was  experienced  in 
the  NE.  trade  belt. 

"  It  is  therefore  evident  that  vessels  bound  to  the  NE. 
portion  of  the  North  Pacific  need  not  run  up  to  the  vari- 
able region  north  of  the  NE.  trades,  for  this  route  takes 
them  very  much  out  of  their  way  and  leads  them  into  bad 
weather.  The  direct  route,  however,  which  we  followed,  is 
only  applicable  to  ships  starting  from  points  situated  to 
eastward  of  the  180th  meridian.  Navigators  deciding  to 
stand  across  the  NE.  trades  for  the  region  of  westerly  winds, 
should  always  recollect  that  they  are  rarely  found  lower  than 
27°  or  30°  N.,  and  that  even  when  they  are  met  with,  it  is 
very  uncertain  how  long  the  wind  will  hold  from  the  west- 
ward." 

m>?u  route.  ^^       §  143.    KOUTE  FROM  NEW   ZEALAND  TO   EUROPE.— Once 

to  eastward  of  the  group,  steer  as  nearly  SE.  as  the  wind 
will  allow,  and  gradually  bear  away  for  the  parallel  on 
which  you  wish  to  make  the  easting ;  keeping  N.  of  50°  S. 
from  October  to  April ;  and  N.  of  52°  S.  from  April  to 
October.  For  information  concerning  the  end  of  the 
voyage,  vide  §  107. 

ad.  Tiie  Suez  Small  auxiliary  steamers  will  find  it  to  their  advantage 
to  take  this  route,  provided  they  leave  New  Zealand  after 
the  15th  April  and  before  the  15th  July.  They  should  run 


FROM  NEW  ZEALAND  TO  NEW  CALEDONIA.          257 

to  the  north  for  the  SE.  trades,  which  they  will  find  a  little 
S.  of  the  tropic,  thence  pass  S.  and  W.  of  New  Caledonia 
and  head  for  Torres  strait.  For  particulars  concerning  the 
remainder  of  the  voyage,  vide  §  108  (2d  part)  and  §  139. 

The  route  south  of  Australia  can  only  be  followed  by 
large  ships.  There  will  be  no  advantage  in  taking  this 
route  during  the  southern  summer  even  if  bound  to  one  of 
the  Mediterranean  ports,  as  vast  quantities  of  coal  will  be 
consumed,  and  the  toll  through  the  Suez  canal  is  heavy. 

§  144.  EOUTE  FROM  NEW  ZEALAND  TO  THE  WESTERN 
COAST  OF  AMERICA. — Once  clear  of  the  land  steer  to  the 
southward  and  eastward,  as  stated  in  §§  143  and  108.  *  The 
reader  should  also  refer  to  §§  110,  136  and  137. 

§  145.  KOUTE  FROM  NEW  ZEALAND  TO  NEW  CALEDO- 
NIA.— Starting  from  Otago,  Port  Nicholson,  or  Auckland, 
a  vessel  should  make  to  the  north  along  the  eastern  coast 
of  New  Zealand,  as  the  weather  is  always  bad  off  the  west- 
ern coast,  (vide  §  8.)  She  should  run  west  of  the  Kermadecs, 
if  the  winds  allow.  From  September  to  February,  the  SE. 
trades  will  generally  be  found  near  30°  S.  During  the 
remainder  of  the  year  they  do  not  come  much  below  25°  S. 
Havannah  pass  is  the  best  entrance  with  the  prevalent  E.  to 
SE.  winds. 

A  sailing-vessel  approaching  Havannah  pass  and  finding 
the  wind  from  W.  or  even  from  NW.  or  NE.  should  give 
the  isle  of  Pines  and  the  great  reef  a  wide  berth ;  and  run 
in  through  Dumbea  pass,  being  first  careful  to  get  well  to 
SW.  of  the  light  on  Amedee  islet,  (vide  §  111.) 

Passage  of  the  Bonite,  Captain  Jouan,  from  New  Zealand 
to  Noumea. — "  During  our  first  stay  at  Auckland,  from  the 
llth  December  to  the  17th  January,  the  wind  was  generally 
fresh  from  W.  with  the  sky  clear ;  at  times  we  had  a  very 
stiff  wind,  bringing  rain.  The  regular  sea-breezes  did  not 
set  in  until  the  day  of  our  departure,  and  we  had  difficulty 
in  leaving  the  gulf  of  Hauraki.  Seven  days  gentle  wind, 
varying  from  S.  to  E.,  brought  us  to  Noumea. 

"  On  my  second  voyage  I  remained  at  Auckland  for  two 
months;  magnificent  weather  all  the  while;  calms  and 
light  airs  from  the  laud  during  the  night,  and  a  gentle  sea- 
breeze  during  the  day.  Only  twice  the  wind  hauled  to  N. 
with  rain,  after  which  fresh  winds  from  W.  Left  Auckland 
on  the  22d  of  January,  1863,  with  a  light  head  wind  from 
17  N 


258  FROM  NEW  ZEALAND   TO   AUSTRALIA. 

NE. ;  and  as  the  tide  ran  very  strong  we  did  not  clear  the 
gulf  of  Hauraki  until  the  morning  of  the  25th,  when  we  ran 
out,  with  a  stiff  breeze  from  E. ;  barometer  30in.10.  We 
kept  this  wind  till  we  reached  24°  S. ;  when  we  met  calms 
and  rain-storms.  Sighted  the  New  Caledonian  reef  on  the 
afternoon  of  the  2d  of  February ;  land  completely  invisi- 
ble in  the  fog.  As  the  moon  was  up  we  ran  through  Dum- 
bea  pass  that  night.  During  our  passage  of  11  days  the 
barometer  stood  between  29in.88  and  29in.63.  The  current 
was  generally  to  S.,  at  a  rate  of  20  miles  per  day." 

Captain  Richard  Foy  says,  (Ann.  Hydr.,  vol.  29:) 

"  The  passage  from  New  Zealand  to  New  Caledonia  can 
be  made  in  8  days,  if  you  take  advantage  of  every  shift  of 
wind,  especially  in  the  trades.  The  latter  are  often  met  at 
26°  or  25°  S.,  that  is  long  before  a  vessel  enters  the  tropics, 
ist.  TO  AUS-  §  146.  ROUTE  FROM  NEW  ZEALAND  TO  AUSTRALIA, 
SINGAPORE,  AND  CHINA. — From  Otago,  Port  Nicholson  or 
Auckland,  and  bound  to  Moreton  bay  or  Sydney,  vessels 
should  keep  B.  of  New  Zealand  as  stated  in  §  144.  Having 
reached  the  east  wind  near  25°  S.  they  should  run  to  west- 
ward; and  finish  the  passage  as  stated  in  §  138. 

If  bound  from  Otago  to  Melbourne,  we  think  that  it  will 
also  be  advantageous  to  keep  N.  of  New  Zealand  and  run 
to  the  northward  as  far  as  30°  or  25°  S. ;  and  thence  to  run 
down  the  E.  coast  of  Australia  and  through  Bass  strait  as 
indicated  in  §  178. 

This  route  is  about  twice  as  long  as  the  one  by  the  S.  of 
New  Zealand,  but  quicker  and  easier.  But  captains  decid- 
ing to  run  through  Foveaux  strait  will  have  to  wait  for  an 
east  wind,  (rare  in  this  locality,)  and  even  if  they  are  lucky 
enough  to  carry  it  through  the  strait,  they  may  meet  a  gale 
from  NVV.  a  few  miles  to  the  westward,  (vide  §  8,)  in 'which 
case  they  will  have  to  put  back  through  the  strait,  to  the 
eastward. 

Navigators  deciding  to  pass  S.  of  Stewart  island  must 
look  out  for  the  Traps  and  Snares.  Between  Stewart  island 
and  Tasmania,  the  current  and  wind  will  both  be  contrary. 
The  weather  is,  however,  a  little  better  during  the  southern 
summer. 

ad.  TO  china  Vessels  should  at  first  follow  the  instructions  given  in  §  145. 
Then  those  in  §  139.  The  reader  should  also  refer  to  the 
two  easterly  routes  given  in  §§  171  and  173;  one  ef  these 


FROM  NEW  ZEALAND   TO   THE   SANDWICH  ISLANDS.  259 

passes  to  E.  and  the  other  to  W.  of  New  Caledonia,  and  a 
third  through  Torres  strait. 

§  147.  ROUTE  FROM:  NEW  ZEALAND  TO  TAHITI  AND  lst- 
THE  SANDWICH  ISLANDS.— After  a  vessel  is  once  well  to 
the  eastward  of  New  Zealand,  she  should  steer  for  30°  S. 
near  153°  W.,  from  April  to  November;  and  for  30°  S.  near 
150°  or  148°  W.,  from  November  to  April.  Thence  the 
track  passes  between  Vavitao  and  Tubuai ;  it  is  best  to 
sight  one  of  these  islands,  whichever  may  be  most  conven- 
ient, and  to  make  the  northing  so  as  to  fetch  to  windward 
of  Tahiti,  (vide  §§  93,  94,  and  140.) 

The  parallel  on  which  to  make  the  easting  will  depend 
on  the  latitude  of  the  port  left.  The  attempt  should  be 
made  to  reach  30°  S.  between  135°  and  133°  W.  Conse- 
quently a  vessel  should  commence  to  make  northing  when 
this  crossing  bears  ENE.  or  NE.  The  SE.  trades  once  reached, 
pass  east  of  the  Paumotas  and  the  Marquesas ;  and  strike 
the  NE.  trades  in  the  region  between  133°  and  138°  W.  and 
about  the  parallels  5°  and  10°  N.;  thence  to  windward  of 
Hawaii,  (vide  §§  95  and  135.) 


CHAPTER    VII. 

ROUTES  FROM  EUROPE  TO  CHINA  AND  RETURN  ROUTES. 

§  148.  SHOWING  UNDER  WHAT  CIRCUMSTANCES  THE 
SUEZ  ROUTE  IS  PREFERABLE  TO  AND  FROM  CHINA. — The 
reader  should  refer  to  the  second  part  of  §§  104  and  107. 
We  will  here  begin  a  resume  of  all  the  instructions  that 
relate  to  the  China  voyage. 

r°"te  ^  *s  understood  °f  course  that  the  Suez  route  is  not  prac- 
ticable for 'sailing-vessels,  for  independently  of  the  long 
Mediterranean  passage  and  the  cost  of  transit  through  the 
canal,"  they  can  only  descend  the  Eed  sea  from  April  to 
October.  If  they  should  clear  the  Eed  sea  about  the  end 
of  May,  they  will  find  the  SW.  monsoon,  N.  of  the  equator, 
in  the  Indian  ocean,  and  can  reach  Singapore  during  the 
first  days  of  July,  and  run  up  the  China  sea  with  the  SW. 
monsoon.  At  no  other  season  should  this  route  be  taken  ; 
and  we  can  hardly  advise  it  for  sailing-vessels,  even  if  they 
leave  one  of  the  Mediterranean  ports  of  France  in  March  or 
April. 

The  best  route  to  China  for  mail  steamers  and  auxiliary- 
steam  vessels,  starting  from  Marseilles,  is  by  the  Suez  canal. 
From  March  to  June  is  the  most  favorable  season,  and 
a  vessel  will  then  find  north  winds  in  the  Eed  sea  ;  and  the 
SW.  monsoon,  north  of  the  equator,  in  the  Indian  ocean 
and  the  China  sea. 

From  October  to  February  ships  are  liable  to  be  detained 
by  strong  head  winds  in  the  Eed  sea,  and  will  use  up  all 
their  coal  if  the  attempt  be  made  to  steam  against  the  NE. 
monsoon  of  the  Indian  ocean.  They  should  therefore  run 
south  of  the  line  for  the  winds  known  as  the  N W.  monsoon  ; 
these  are,  however,  no  others  than  the  SE.  trades  which  are 
interrupted  at  this  season,  and  vary  to  S.,  SW.,  W.,  and 
NW.,  accompanied  with  rain  and  squalls.  In  the  China 
sea  the  NE.  monsoon  will  be  found. 
21.  ihe  ro.te  Sailing-vessels  should  not  attempt  to  reach  Europe  via 

fro  a  China. 

Suez,  as  the  north  wind  prevails  nearly  the  whole  year 
round  in  the  lower  two-thirds  of  the  Eed  sea. 


FROM  EUROPE   TO   CHINA.  2G1 

Steamers  and  auxiliary-steam  vessels  wishing  to  take 
the  Suez  route  should  leave  Yokohama  about  the  end  of 
October,  and  Hong-Kong  in  November.  They  will  have 
the  NE.  monsoon  in  their  favor,  and  after  running  through 
the  strait  of  Malacca,  should  cross  the  Indian  ocean  north 
of  the  line.  From  October  to  April,  and  especially  in  Jan- 
uary and  February,  the  wind  is  generally  from  the  south- 
ward in  the  southern  part  of  the  Ked  sea,  but  north  of 
Jebbel  Teer,  steam  will  have  to  be  used  against  the  head 
wind.  Voyages  at  this  season  are  comparatively  safe, 
rapid,  and  economical. 

Vessels  leaving  China  or  Japan  after  the  month  of  April 
will  have  to  steam  against  the  SW.  monsoon  of  the  China 
sea.  This  is  also  the  season  for  typhoons,  (vide  §  20.) 

After  passing  through  the  straits  of  Suuda  they  should 
run  down  their  longitude  in  the  Indian  ocean,  by  keeping 
south  of  the  line,  with  the  SB.  trades  well  abaft  the  beam. 
In  the  Red  sea  the  wind  will  be  ahead  all  the  way  to  Suez. 
The  voyage  therefore  at  this  season  will  be  long  and  expen- 
sive. 

§  149.  KOUTE  FROM  EUROPE  TO  CHINA,  (during  the  W. 
monsoon,  from  April  to  October.}  —  Instructions  relative  to 
this  route  will  be  found  in  the  "Navigation  of  the  Atlantic 
Ocean."  The  reader  should  also  refer  to  §  104  of  the  present 
volume. 

The  Indian  ocean  once  reached,  run  down  the  easting  be- 
tween 43°  and  46°  S.,  keeping  in  a  higher  or  lower  latitude 
according  to  the  weather,  (vide  §  104.)  Thence  steer  NE. 
so  as  to  cross  40°  S.  between  80°  and  84°  E.  The  SE.  trades 
should  be  struck  north  of  30°  or  28°  S.,  and  the  tropic  of 
Capricorn  crossed  near  102°  E.  According  to  Horsburgh 
vessels  should  then  head  for  the  strait  of  Suuda,  being  care- 
ful to  make  the  meridian  of  Java  head  several  degrees  to 
the  southward  of  the  island  and  then  run  north.  In  March, 
April,  and  May,  the  prevailing  winds  haul  to  the  eastward, 
making  a  westerly  current  along  the  south  coast  of  Java; 
this  fact  will  necessitate  keeping  well  to  windward,  and 
making  the  landfall  near  Klapper  point.  From  April  to 
October,  or  the  season  of  the  SW.  monsoon,  the  China  sea 
should  be  entered  by  Banka  or  Gaspar  strait.  If  going  to  .lst-  if  bound  to 
Singapore,  Banka  strait  will  be  preferable,  when  the 


are  light  and  unsettled,  as  the  approach  to  this  passage  is 


262  FROM  EUROPE   TO   CHINA. 

easy  and  a  ship  can  anchor  anywhere.  Stanton  channel  is 
generally  considered  the  best;  it  runs  along  the  SW.  coast 
of  Banka  j  is  19  miles  long,  and  3  miles  broad  in  its  narrow- 
est part.  The  depth  varies  from  7  to  20  fathoms  in  mid- 
channel.  At  the  SE.  extremity  the  depth  is  7  fathoms,  and 
20  at  the  other.  Once  through,  head  for  Ehio  strait. 

With  a  fresh,  steady  wind  vessels  should  take  Gaspar 
strait.  The  approach  to  this  strait  is  dangerous  in  thick  or 
bad  weather,  and  the  water  very  deep.* 

Passage  of  the  sailing-vessel  Duperre,  Captain  Bourgois, 
(Ann.  Hyclr.,  vol.  23,)  from  the  strait  of  Sunda  to  Singapore. — 
"  As  the  Constantino  and  Didon  had  been  detained  for 
15  days  in  the  strait  of  Malacca,  I  decided  to  take  the  strait 
of  Sunda.  Passed  safely  through.  As  the  water  in  Banka 
strait  is  shallow  and  requires  frequent  anchorages,  and  Car- 
imata  strait  took  me  too  much  out  of  my  route,  I  decided  on 
Gaspar.  This  strait  is  itself  divided  into  several  channels  ; 
I  ran  through  the  one  called  Macclesfield.  Left  Anjer  on 
the  16th  May  with  a  light  breeze  from  SSW.  to  SSE.,  and 
during  the  night  cleared  the  narrow  channel  which  sepa- 
rates the  Two-Brothers  island  from  Schabunder  bank. 
Sighted  the  entrance  to  Macclesfield  strait  on  the  evening 
of  the  19th;  ran  through  the  next  day.  The  breeze  fresh- 
ened as  we  went  to  the  north,  increasing  our  speed  grad- 
ually to  6.5  knots.  Barometer  about  29iu.69.  At  daylight 
on  the  23d  the  Duperre  was  among  the  low  wooded  islands 
of  Ehio  strait ;  picked  up  a  native  pilot  acquainted  with  this 
locality  and  Singapore.  Current  running  at  the  rate  of  £ 
knot  against  us ;  did  not  clear  Pan  shoal,  at  the  extremity 
of  Ehio  strait,  till  9  p.  in.  Afterward  passed  between  Affre 
reef  and  Johore  bank.  Made  little  or  no  headway  during 
the  night,  the  breeze  being  light  and  from  SE.,  and  the  cur- 
rent setting  to  east.  Anchored  on  the  morning  of  the  24th 
at  Singapore.  During  this  8  days'  passage,  though  the  moon 
was  new,  the  sky  was  generally  clear,  and  the  land  visible 
during  the  night ;  Enough  we  had  to  lie-to  2  or  3  times,  we 
did  not  once  anchor." 

if  bound  to  Sal-     Vessels  taking  Gaspar  strait  should  cross  the  line  near 
105°  E.    If  they  take  Bauka  strait,  they  should  pass  be- 

*  Sailing-vessels  bound  to  Singapore  can  also  cross  the  line  in  the  In- 
dian ocean  at  90°  or  92°  E.,  thence  they  can  head  to  double  Sumatra, 
with  the  SW.  monsoon,  and  take  the  strait  of  Malacca. 


FROM  EUROPE   TO   CHINA. 


2C3 


Outer  route. 


t \veeii  Taya  and  Toejoe  islands,  and  thence  lay  a  course 
to  cross  the  equator  at  105°  E.  Once  past  the  line 
the  course  is  for  Pulo-Aor,  keeping  well  clear  of  Frederic 
bank,  and  to  eastward  of  the  reefs  lying  off  Bintang.  After 
leaving  Pulo-Aor  finish  the  voyage  as  stated  in  §  153. 

When  bound  to  Hong-Kong  there  is  a  choice  of  three 
routes  :  the  inner  route,  the  outer  or  deep-sea  route,  and  the 
Palawan  route. 

On  leaving  Batika  or  Gaspar  straits  in  February,  March,  inner  route, 
or  April,  vessels  should  take  the  inner  route ;  to  follow  it 
they  should  first  steer  for  Pulo-Aor ;  and  thence  keep  along 
the  coast  of  Cochiri-China,  passing  W.  of  Pulo-Sapata  and 
the  Paracels.  Although  this  is  the  best  route  at  this  season, 
the  passage  will  probably  be  long  and  tedious  under  canvas. 
Complete  instructions  for  the  inner  route  from  Pulo-Aor  to 
Hong-Kong  will  be  found  in  §  154. 

A  ship  running  clear  of  Banka  or  Gaspar,  between  the 
end  of  April  and  the  beginning  of  September,  will  find  the 
outer  or  deep-sea  route  preferable.  In  this  case  she 
should  steer  to  pass  a  few  miles  to  the  E.  of  Pulo-Aor,  and 
finish  the  passage  in  accordance  with  the  instructions  given 
in  §  154;  passing  E.  of  Pulo-Sapata,  the  Catwicks,  and 
crossing  Macclesfield  bank.  In  order  to  follow  this  route 
Pulo-Sapata  must  be  made  before  the  beginning  of  October. 

A  ship  running  clear  of  Banka  or  Gaspar  during  Septem- 
ber and  October,  should  take  the  Palawan  route.  Coming 
from  Banka  strait,  cross  the  line  near  105°  E.,  as  before 
stated.  Thence  steer  to  pass  S.  and  E.  of  Barren  island  ; 
thence  E.  of  Low  island  and  Hutton  reef,  and  run  between 
the  Auarnbas  and  Soubi  islands.  Coming  from.  Gaspar 
strait,  during  September  and  October,  shape  the  course  a 
little  to  eastward  of  St.  Barbe  island ;  thence  head  for  the 
passage  to  the  east  of  the  Tambelan  islands ;  rejoin  the 
route  S.  of  Low  island  and  Hutton  reef,  and  pass  between 
the  Auambas  and  Soubi.  For  information  concerning  the 
termination  of  the  route,  vide  Palawan  route  in  §  154. 

§  150.  ROUTE  FROM  EUROPE  TO  CHINA,  (during  the  NJE. 
monsoon,  from  October  to  April.) — As  stated  in  §  149,  in- 
structions relative  to  this  route  will  be  found  in  the  "Nav- 
igation of  the  Atlantic."  The  reader  should  also  refer  to 
§  104  of  the  present  volume.  The  Indian  ocean  should  be 
crossed  between  43°  and  45°  S.  This  is  the  season  of  the 


to 


Talawan  route. 


264  FROM  EUROPE   TO   CHINA. 

southern  summer,  and  a  ship  can  run  as  far  south  as  46°  or 
48°  S.,  before  meeting  cold  weather.  The  parallel  of  40° 
S.  should  be  crossed  between  90°  and  92°  E. ;  30°  S.  be- 
tween 1050  and  107°  E. ;  thence  the  track  is  through  the 
trades,  for  20°  S.  near  112°  E.;  and  for  either  Bali  or  Lom- 
bok,  Alias,  or  Sapi  straits,  as  may  be  thought  best. 

There  is  a  choice  between  three  routes  at  this  season,  viz  : 
The  first,  by  Macassar  strait,  can  be  followed  in  October, 
November,  and  March  ;  the  second,  by  Pitt's  passage,  is  the 
surest,  especially  from  the  beginning  of  December  to  Feb- 
ruary ;.  the  third  passes  around  the  south  of  Australia,  and 
is  very  little  used.  It  is  advantageous  for  vessels  bound  to 
Shanghai  and  Japan, 
ist.  The  route  This  route  should  only  be  taken  in  October,  November, 

to  Hong-Kong  by 

Macassar  strait,  and  March.  After  crossing  20°  S.  near  112°  E.  any  one  of 
the  following  straits  may.  be  taken,  viz :  Bali,  Lombok, 
Alias,  or  Sapi.  The  first  two  are  generally  preferred. 

A  ship  taking  Bali  strait  in  September  and  October  should 
bear  north  and  pass  between  Sapoedie  and  Giliang,  and 
afterward  give  a  wide  berth  to  the  Kalkpen  reefs  and 
islands,  situated  north  of  Kangeang,  passing  them  to  the 
westward ;  Pulo-laut  may  be  passed  on  either  side,  as  cir- 
cumstances allow. 

The  Lombolt-strait  route  seems  to  be  the  best  from  the  15th 
January  to  the  1st  March.  Vessels  should  keep  in  the  mid- 
channel,  between  Pandita  island,  on  the  W.,  and  Lombok 
island,  on  the  E.,  and  afterward  to  the  eastern  side  of  the 
strait.  Once  out  of  this  strait  the  course  is  NNE.  for  that 
of  Macassar,  the  track  passing  between  the  most  western 
island  of  the  Pater-Noster  group  and  Hastings  island.  Af- 
ter sighting  Hastings,  head  to  northward,  for  the  Two- 
Brothers  and  Great  Pulo-laut. 

Vessels  choosing  Alias  strait,  should,  when  clear  of  it, 
head  NNW.,  and  afte'rward  JS\  for  Hastings  island.  After 
running  east  of  it  they  should  finish  the  voyage  as  if  coming 
from  Lombok  strait. 

On  arriving  from  Sapi  strait  during  the  months  of  Sep- 
tember and  October,  a  ship  would,  according  to  the  prevail- 
ing winds,  pass  to  the  east  or  west  of  the  Postilions,  and 
proceed  to  the  north  between  Tanakeke  and  the  Tongu 
islands  ;  then  pass  at  a  good  distance  the  isles  and  banks 


FROM  EUROPE   TO   CHINA.  205 

of  Spermonde,  and  enter  Macassar  strait  near  the  Celebes 
coast. 

The  route  through  Macassar  strait,  (Horsburgh,  vol.  3.) — 
The  Pater  Noster  islands  divide  this  strait  into  two  passages. 
The  W.  channel  is  from  30  to  33  miles  broad,  and  the  E. 
channel  from  45  to  48  miles.  The  first  is  the  most  frequented, 
notwithstanding  its  dangers,  as  the  depth  of  the  water  is 
less  on  the  coast  of  Borneo,  and  vessels  can  anchor  all  the 
way  to  1°  N.  In  October  and  November  the  winds  are 
exceedingly  variable  in  this  channel. 

In  the  E.  channel  there  is  no  anchorage  on  the  Celebes 
coast,  as  the  shore  is  steep-to  all  the  way  up  the  strait;  how- 
ever, this  seems  to  be  the  best  passage  in  October  and  No- 
vember, when  the  wind  is  light  from  the  southward. 

A  ship  coming  from  Sapi  strait  should  take  the  E.  channel 
of  Macassar  strait;  and  from  cape  Mandhar  to  cape  Rivers, 
follow  the  Celebes  coast,  keeping  from  6  to  9  miles  off  tin- 
land,  if  the  wind  be  light.  But  a  vessel  beating  up  against 
a  head  wind  and  current  will  have  to  approach  the  coast 
much  nearer  at  times,  especially  in  the  bay  8.  of  cape  Te- 
rn oel. 

Vessels  coming  from  Bali,  Lombok,  or  Alias  strait,  and 
wishing  to  take  the  W.  channel  through  Macassar  strait, 
should  double  Great- Pulo-Laut  to  the  SE.,  passing  either  E. 
or  W.  of  the  Alike  islands,  and  thence  steer  for  Shoal  point. 
If  compelled  to  beat  they  should  stand  on  the  off-shore  tack 
until  12  or  15  miles  from  the  coast,  and  in  14  or  16  fathoms 
of  water,  then  go  about  and  stand  in  until  about  6  miles 
from  shore,  and  in  7  or  8  fathoms. 

There  is  generally  a  southerly  current  in  Macassar  strait. 
It  is  violent  in  January  and  February,  and  moderates  in 
March.  It  sometimes  sets  to  northward  in  October;  this 
is,  therefore,  the  most  favorable  month  for  going  to  China 
by  this  passage. 

After  having  passed  through  Macassar  strait,  from  Sep- 
tember to  the  beginning  of  December,  and  especially  in 
September  and  October,  run  into  the  Pacific,  between  Ce- 
lebes and  Mindanao,  and  then  head  for  Hong- Kong;  but 
in  March  it  will  be  too  late  to  take  Pitt  strait,  or  to  enter 
the  Pacific  between  Celebes  and  Mindanao,  and  the  remain- 
der of  the  voyage  will  have  to  be  accomplished  by  running 


266  FROM  EUROPE   TO   CHINA. 

to  westward  of  the  Philippines.  We  therefore  have  the  two 
following  routes : 

First    route     A  vessel  clearing  Macassar,  from  September  to  the  end  of 
strait.  November,  should  enter  the  Pacific  by  steering  from  cape  Riv- 

ers to  Sangui  or  Siao,  and  thence  north  of  Morti.  After  pass- 
ing between  Siao  and  Tagolanda,  or  through  one  of  the  adja- 
cent passages  of  Sangui,  Horsburgh  advises  an  E.  course, 
so  as  to  round  the  northern  extremity  of  Morti.  If  the  wind 
come  out  from  NE.,  and  the  current  be  southerly,  after  pass- 
ing S.  of  Siao,  the  ship  will  probably  be  drifted  within  sight 
of  Gilolo  or  Morti,  and  perhaps  Meyo  and  Tyfore  islands. 
The  southerly  current  generally  ceases  near  these  islands,  and 
sets  north  along  the  W.  coast  of  Gilolo.  Still  it  i«  best  to 
give  Morti  and  Gilolo  islands  a  wide  berth  when  doubling 
them  to  the  northward,  as  the  southerly  current,  combined 
with  the  NB.  swell,  may  sag  the  ship  too  close  to  the  shore. 
After  doubling  Morti  island  (and.  always  according  to  Hors- 
burgh) do  not  go  beyond  4°  N.  to  make  the  easting,  as 
the  W.  or  variable  winds  appear  to  be  dominant  in  low 
latitudes.  On  the  contrary,  if  a  ship  run  into  a  higher  lati- 
tude sh§  will  strike  the  NE.  monsoon.  At  the  commence- 
ment of  this  monsoon— that  is,  at  the  season  when  this 
route  should  be  followed — a  vessel  should  keep  south  of  4° 
N.  until  the  Pelew  islands  can  be  doubled  to  the  eastward, 
and  then  bear  N.  In  case  of  doubt  it  will  be  best  to  sight 
the  most  southern  one  of  these  islands,  and  then  run  up  to 
westward  of  the  group.  In  November,  December,  and  Jan- 
uary the  wind  is  generally  strong,  and 'from  NE.,  between 
the  Pelew  islands  and  Luzon  ;  and,  as  the  currents  also  set 
to  W.,  it  is  necessary  to  make  plenty  of  easting,  in  order 
to  clear  the  N.  point  of  Luzon  and  the  Babuyans.  As  the 
wind  and  current  are  less  violent  in  February  and  March,  it 
will  be  safe  to  pass  W.  of  the  Pelew  islands. 

As  an  indorsement  to  this  last  observation  we  will  quote, 
a  few  pages  further  on,  the  opinion  of  Captain  Polack,  who 
advises  vessels  leaving  Gilolo  passage  not  to  lose  time 
making  to  the  eastward,  but  to  bear  north  immediately, 
and  keep  along  the  coast  of  Luzon.  According  to  this  nav- 
igator it  is  useless  to  go  toward  the  Pelew  islands,  unless 
for  north  winds.  But  we  would  draw  the  reader's  attention 
to  the  fact  that  Captain  Polack's  observations  refer  to  the 
passage  from  Gilolo  to  Bashees,  which  is  generally  made  in 


FROM  EUROPE   TO   CHINA.  207 

January,  February,  and  March,  when  Horsburgh  himself 
maintains  that  the  W.  currents  and  NE.  winds  are  more 
moderate,  and  adds,  "  that  vessels  may  pass  W.  of  the 
Pelew  islands." 

On  clearing  the  strait  of  Macassar  in  March  and  April  a    second    route 
ship  should  pass  W.  of  the  Philippines;  and,  after  leav-  strait, 
ing  cape  Donda,  steer  for  the  E.  extremity  of  Basilan,  being 
careful  that  the  westerly  current  aud  east  winds  do  not 
drift  her  upon  the  Sulu  chain  of  islands. 

In  Basilan  strait  keep  close  to  the  coast  of  Mindanao, 
thus  avoiding  the  shallow  water  off  the  Santa  Cruz 
islands.  By  following  this  advice  a  ship  can  anchor,  if 
necessary,  off  Samboangau,  or  on  the  coast  of  Mindanao, 
when  she  will  have  nothing  to  fear  but  the  fishing  stakes, 
as  the  dangers  are  well  beaconed.  The  tides  are  here  alter- 
nately strong  and  weak ;  the  currents  are  generally  very 
strong,  and  set  sometimes  to  E.,  and  sometimes  to  W., 
changing  suddenly  from  one  direction  to  the  other. 

Stand  to  the  northward  from  Basilan,  aud  keep  near  to 
the  west  coasts  of  Mindinao,  Negros,  Panay,  Mindoro,  and 
Luzon.  While  coasting  these  islands,  from  November  to 
April,  variable  land  and  sea  breezes  will  probably  be  expe- 
rienced, although  the  direction  of  the  dominant  wind  is  N. 

Between  Miudiuao  and  Negros,  and  between  Payua  and 
Mindoro,  look  out  for  the  strong  NE.  winds  aud  W.  currents, 
which  sweep  through  these  passages,  and  may  drift  the 
ship  near  the  Cagayanes.  Being  abreast  of  point  Balago- 
nan,  (lat.  7°  46'  30" 'K,  long.  122°  E.,)  with  a  steady  SVV. 
or  S.  wind,  steer  a  direct  course  for  point  Naso,  keeping  a 
little  to  the  eastward.  If  the  winds  are  unsettled,  light, 
and  variable,  keep  along  the  coast  of  Mindinao  to  point 
Galera,  or  thereabout,  prior  to  stretching  off  from  that  coast 
for  point  Naso  ;  and,  in  crossing,  endeavor  to  approach  the 
west  coast  of  Negros  island.  On  leaving  Panay  head  the 
ship  for  Ylin  and  Ambolon  islands,  and  give  a  wide  berth 
to  the  Buffaloes  and  the  sand-bank  off  the  Semirara  islands- 

When  within  18  miles  of  Ambolon  and  Yliu  islands  stand 
to  the  westward,  and  keep  12  or  13  miles  from  that  coast 
until  the  southern  extremity  of  the  islands  bears  SE.  by  E. 
\  E.  Double  the  reefs  lying  west  of  these  islands  to  the 
northward,  and  approach  Mindoro  if  the  ship  is  to  take  the 
E.  channel  between  Mindoro  and  Appo  shoal.  Keep  about 


268  FKOM  EUROPE   TO   CHINA. 

G  miles  from  the  islets  off  Paridan  poiut,  especially  during1 
the  night;  the  E.  extremity  of  Appo  shoal  being  narrow 
and  difficult  to  see  if  the  wind  is  from  the  west.  There  are 
no  breakers  over  the  shoal. 

The  west  channel  of  Mindoro  strait  is  known  as  Northum- 
berland passage,  and  is  perhaps  the  best.  It  is  from  15  to 
18  miles  broad.  A  vessel  can  here  sight  the  Appo  islands, 
and,  if  deemed  advisable,  run  within  a  mile  of  the  west 
coast  of  the  largest  of  this  group. 

HoSg-Kon?  b*°  This  route  should  be  taken  from  the  beginning  of  Decem- 
pitt  passage.  ber  to  February.  Pitt  passage  is  bounded  on  the  W.  by  Bol  - 
ton  island;  on  the  E.  by  Batauta  and  Salawati  islands;  on 
the  N.  by  the  Xallas  and  Obi  Major ;  and  on  the  S.by  Bouro 
and  Geram.  It  was  followed  for  the  first  time  by  Gaptain 
Wilson,  commanding  the  Pitt,  in  1758.  It  has  three  commu- 
nications with  the  Pacific,  viz:  Gilolo  strait,  between  Gilolo 
and  Waygiou  islands;  Dampier  strait,  between  Waygiou 
and  Batanta;  and  Pitt  strait,  between  Batanta  and  Sala- 
wati. Vessels  corning  from  Europe  should  ordinarily  take 
Ombay  strait,  leaving  Sandalwood  island  to  north,  and 
thence,  running  between  Timor  arid  Ombay,  pass  the  east- 
ern extremity  of  Ombay,  stand  north  close-hauled  on  the  port 
tack,  with  the  NW.  monsoon,  and  thus  endeavor  to  double 
Bouro  to  windward;  that  is,  to  westward.  If  they  do  not 
fetch  to  windward,  the  passage  east  of  the  island  and  west 
of  Manipa  can  be  used.  Thence  head  EXE.  so  as  to  pass 
E.  of  Obi-Major,  and  through  Gilolo  or  Dampier  strait. 
.This  route  can  be  followed  after  the  15th  ISTovember,  and  is 
probably  the  best  during  December,  January,  and  February. 
Pitt  strait,  between  Batanta  and  Salawati,  is  rarely  used. 

Gilolo  strait  is  to  be  preferred  toward  the  end  of  Novem 
ber  and  during  December,  as  the  NE.  wind  is  not  then  very 
fresh  in  that  locality.  It  can  also  be  taken  in  March  when 
the  NE.  winds  begin  to  moderate.  It  is  broader  than  Dam- 
pier  strait,  and  the  shore  near  the  islands  is  clean  and 
steep-to,  enabling  a  ship  to  beat  through  at  night.  The 
currents  are  rarely  strong.  As  the  NE.  wind  is  often  fresh 
in  Gilolo  strait  during  the  months  of  January  and  February, 
and  the  Pacific  swell  heavy,  it  is  best  to  take  Dampier 
strait,  where  the  wind  is  sometimes  variable  and  favorable. 
But  it  should  be  remembered  that  there  are  in  this  locality 
several  dangers,  lying  in  deep  water;  that  the  tides  are 


FROM   EUROPE   TO   CHINA.  209 

very  strong,  and  that  vessels  should  keep  close  to  poiut 
I'igot,  so  as  not  to  be  set  toward  the  coast  of  New  Guinea. 

Alter  passing  east  of  Obi-Major  (in  December  and  March)  1st.  The  r»ap- 
steer  so  as  to  double  the  southern  extremity  of  Pulo  GassesiokTstiJit!^ 
very  close  aboard ;  while  passing  between  Pulo  Gassesand  Ke- 
kik  remember  that  the  current  often  sets  to  east.  After  doub- 
ling the  former  island  the  highest  of  the  Dammer  isles  will 
come  in  sight;  (at  a  distance  it  has  the  form  of  a  saddle;) 
thence  run  between  Gebe  island  and  poiut  Tabo,  (Gilolo.) 
Look  out  for  Fairway  ledge  and  the  Weedah  islands,  if  this 
passage  be  made  during  the  night.  As  the  currents  often 
set  to  NE.  and  E.,  keep  on  the  west  side  of  the  channel  if  the 
wind  be  light.  If  the  wind  be  NNW.,  and  the  vessel  can- 
not double  Gebe  to  northward,  pass  between  it  and  Gagy, 
and  run  into  the  Pacific,  leaving  the  Syang  islands  to  the 
eastward,  if  possible.  If  unable  to  double  the  Asia  islands 
to  northward,  run  between  them  and  the  Aiu  isles;  if  abso- 
lutely necessary,  the  passage  between  the  north  coast  of 
Waigiu  and  the  Aiu  islands  can  be  taken.  Thence  steer 
east,  keeping  south  of  3°  N.,  and  between  1°  30'  and  2°  N., 
if  possible,  until  the  ship  reaches  130°  E.,  when  let  her  run 
east  of  the  Pelew  islands,  from  October  and  December,  and 
close  to  the  westward  of  them  from  January  to  March. 
Horsburgh  thinks  that  there  are  N.  and  NW.  winds  and 
S.  and  SE.  currents  between  1°  30'  and  2°  IS.  Beyond  3° 
X.  the  winds  are  from  NE.  and  the  currents  set  to  E.,  and 
even  to  the  northward  of  E.  When  the  NE.  monsoon  is 
well  settled,  they  sometimes  set  to  the  westward. 

The  Dampier-strait  route  is  taken  in  January  and  Feb-    M<  The  pa6. 
ruary.     Once  to  the  east  of  Gomouo,  shape  the  course  for  Dopier  ^tr^t* 
the  passage  between  Pulo-Popa  and  the  Bu  isles.    There  is 
also  a  good  passage  south  of  Pulo-Popa,  and  between  it  and 
the  Kanari  isles. 

If  the  wind  be  from  NW.,  the  passage  north  of  Pulo-Popa 
is  the  best.  To  follow  it,  round  the  low  chain  of  islands,* 
situated  NW.  and  WNW.  of  cape  Mabo.  When  this  cape 
bears  S.  keep  9  miles  from  Batanta,  and  do  not  let  Pigeon 
island  bear  to  east  of  ENE.,  as  there  are  banks  along  the 
north  coast  of  the  channel.  When  9  or  12  miles  NE.  of 
Fisher  island  the  ship  will  be  on  soundings,  but  the  bottom 
off  the  Batanta  coast  is  foul,  and  if  compelled  to  anchor  till 

*  Probably  the  Tarneay  isles.— Translator. 


270  FROM  EUROPE   TO    CHINA. 

the  tide  turns  use  a  stream-anchor  or  a  kedge.  When  stand- 
ing along  the  west  coast  of  Batanta,  at  a  distance  of  8  or  9 
miles,  steer  NE.,  keeping  Augusta  bearing  nearly  NE.  by 
E.  If  Mansfield  island  is  visible  keep  it  nearly  in  range 
with  the  southern  point  of  Fowl  island,  and  run  south  of  all 
the  shoal  water. 

When  Augusta  island  bears  N.  by  E.,  distant  4  or  5  miles, 
steer  a  little  more  to  the  northward,  and  pass  2  or  3  miles 
south  of  Pigeon  island,  and  keep  well  to  W.  and  N.  of  Van- 
sittart  shoal.  To  clear  it  the  ship  must  be  more  than  4 
miles  from  Fowl  island,  when  she  raises  it  between  E.  and 
SSE.  Then  lay  an  E.  course  and  keep  north  of  a  line  join- 
ing Fowl  and  Mansfield  islands. 

A  ship  clearing  Dampier  straits  in  December  and  January 
will  be  exposed  to  heavy  northerly  squalls  and  an  accom- 
panying swell.  It  is,  therefore,  best  to  keep  within  2  or 
3  miles  of  the  small  islands  off  Pigot  point;  then  keep 
Pigot  point,  or  the  islet  close  to  it,  bearing  west  of  W.  30° 
S.  until  they  are  out  of  sight.  By  following  this  precaution 
Buccleugh  shoal  will  be  avoided.  Thence  head  NB.,  if  the 
wind  permit,  and  clear  the  coast  of  New  Guinea  well  to 
windward. 

According  to  Horsburgh,  vessels  wishing  to  pass  east  of 
the  Pelews  should  run  east,  between  1°  30'  and  3°  N.,  until 
near  136°  E.  A  good  weatherly  ship  can,  however,  even 
in  November  and  December,  pass  close  to  westward  of  the 
group.  Between  the  Bashees  and  the  Pelews  the  current  is 
generally  westerly,  with  a  speed  of  from  10  to  15  miles  per 
day;  the  wind  NE.,  and  the  sea  heavy,  especially  in  Decem- 
ber, January,  and  the  beginning  of  February.  Near  Luzon, 
the  Bashees,  and  Formosa,  typhoons  are  rare  after  the  mouth 
of  December,  (vide  §  20.)  In  February  and  March  a  vessel 
can  easily  run  west  of  the  Pelews,  and  weather  the  northern 
point  of  Luzon,  as  the  trades  often  haul  to  ENE. 
The  end  of  the  The  northern  extremity  of  Luzon  once  cleared,  take 

Y0y3.£6. 

any  of  the  channels  between  the  Babuyaus  and  Bashees, 
except  at  the  beginning  of  the  monsoon,  and  when  the 
winds  are  from  NE.,  in  which  case  run  north  of  the  Bashees 
and  either  north  or  south  of  Gadd  rock.  In  clear  iveather 
and  in  the  day-time  vessels  pass  between  the  south  point  of 
Formosa  and  the  Vele-Rete  rocks.  Between  Formosa  and 
China  the  prevailing  wind  is  northerly.  But  during  the 


FROM  EUROPE   TO   CHINA. 


271 


Captain 


night  or  in  bad  weather  the  Bashees  must  be  doubled  to 
the  northward,  and  the  ship  kept  well  south  of  the  Gadd 
and  Vele-Rete  rocks.  In  all  cases  try  to  sight  Pedra-Brauca 
or  the  China  coast,  and  keep  the  lead  going  during  the 
night.  Enter  Canton  river  by  the  Leina  channel. 

We  give  below  the  observations  of  Captain  Polack,  com- 
manding the  barque  Esmeralda,  (Ann.  Hydr.,  vol.  23.)  It 
will  be  noticed  that  his  advice  differs  materially  from  Hors- 
burgh's  instructions  for  this  route. 

uThe  passage  from  Hamburg  to  Hong-Kong  was  accoin-  The 
plished  in  112  days.  I  was  10  days  in  going  from  Gilolo  IScif 
passage  to  the  Bashees,  and  did  not  attempt  to  make  any 
easting;  while  three  other  vessels,  at  the  same  time,  took 
respectively  13,  15,  and  16  days  to  make  the  run  from  Gilolo 
to  the  Pelew  islands.  Two  Siamese  captains  told  me  that, 
although  they  often  made  this  voyage,  they  never  attempted 
to  run  to  the  eastward,  but  always  bore  right  away  north, 
during  the  NE.  monsoon.  They  thus  had  no  difficulty  in 
reaching  the  Bashees,  and  always  had  a  great  advantage 
over  those  who  sighted  the  Pelew  islands.  Consequently, 
it  is  advisable  to  make  to  the  northward  as  soon  as  possi- 
ble. In  10  days  I  encountered  eight  times  a  NW.  current, 
and  twice  a  NE.  current,  with  rates  of  from  22  to  50  miles 
per  day.  It  is,  moreover,  a  known  fact  that  vessels  bound 
from  Hong-Kong  to  Shanghai,  during  the  NE.  monsoon, 
pass  east  of  Formosa,  and  beat  up  with  the  Kuro  Siwo  in 
their  favor.  Why,  therefore,  should  you  lose  time  by  run- 
ning for  the  Pelews,  when  you  can  bear  north  under  the 
east  coast  of  the  Philippines,  where  the  current  is  favor- 
able ?  It  should  be  well  understood,  however,  that  if  you 
find  a  favorable  wind  for  making  easting  on  leaving  Gilolo 
passage,  the  ship  should  be  headed  about  NE.,  but  not  E.; 
because  it  is  always  prudent  to  clear  the  zone  of  calms  as 
soon  as  possible." 

Although  this  route  is  rarely  used,  it  may  be  taken  with    3d.  Route    to 
advantage,  under  certain  contingencies,  in  time,  of  war,  for 

instance.  Australia. 

Horsburgh  quotes  the  passage  of  the  Walpole,  which  left 
the  cape  of  Good  Hope  on  the  21st  September,  1794, 
doubled  Van  Dieinen's  Land  on  the  31st  October,  passed 
east  of  New  Caledonia,  and  arrived  at  Canton  on  the  5th 
January,  1795. 


2,2  FROM  EUROPE   TO   CHINA. 

He  also  cites  the  Atheuienne,  which  vessel  doubled  the 
island  of  St.  Paul  on  the  llth  October,  1804 ;  entered  Bass 
strait  on  the  28th  of  the  same  month ;  and  after  running 
east  of  New  Caledonia,  reached  Pedra-Brauca  on  the  28th 
December. 

We  think  that  this  route  can  be  advantageously  followed 
by  vessels  bound  to  Shanghai,  during  the  season  of  the  NE. 
monsoon  of  the  China  sea;  and  we  deem  it  the  best  route 
at  this  time  for  ships  bound  to  Yokohama. 

Vessels  should  first  steer  as  stated  in  §  104,  and  afterward 
follow  the  instructions  given  in  §§  139  and  173.  The  reader 
should  refer  especially  to  the  description  of  the  two  easterly 
routes,  given  in  §  173.  The  second  of  these  routes  passes 
between  Xew  Caledonia  and  the  Fijis,  and  is  generally  pre- 
ferred by  ships  coming  from  Europe  or  Port  Adelaide. 
Koute from  EU-  ,  Vessels  l)ound  to  Singapore  should,  if  possible,  cross  the 
a°n  d  Singapore  tropic  of  Capricorn,  in  the  Indian  ocean,  east  of  82°  E.,  and 
he  mon-  thence  set  the  course  a  little  to  eastward  of  Eugano  island, 
so  as  not  to  fetch  to  leeward,  that  is  to  eastward,  of  Java 
head  or  Palembang.  The  easterly  currents  and  west  winds 
are  strong  in  these  localities.  After  running  through  the 
strait  of  Sunda,  (especially  with  an  auxiliary  steamer,) 
either  Banka  or  Duriaii  strait  can  be  taken.  It  often  hap- 
pens that  sailing-vessels  have  to  pass  through  Gaspar  strait. 
In  this  case  a  sharp  lookout  must  be  kept  during  murky  or 
overcast  weather.  The  line  should  be  crossed  near  St. 
Barbe  islaiid,  and  Singapore  strait  made  with  the  ETE. 
monsoon. 

Auxiliary-steam  vessels  bound  to  Saigon  should,  if  pressed 
for  time,  take  the  inner  route  given  in  §§  149  and  153,  and 
steam  against  the  monsoon  ;  they  can  touch  at  Singapore, 
in  which  case  they  should  run  through  Banka  or  Durian 
strait. 

Sailing-vessels  bound  to  Saigon  should  take  the  route  by 
Macassar,  already  described  in  this  paragraph.  They  should 
ascend  the  Sulu  sea  and  enter  the  China  sea  by  Mindoro 
strait.  They  should  cross  the  China  sea,  and  head  for  Cape 
Padaran,  making  a  good  allowance  for  the  current,  and 
keeping  well  to  windward  of  all  dangers — the  Trident, 
Alexander,  Minerva  shoals,  etc. 

For  information  concerning  the  termination  of  the  voyage 
vide  §  167.  We  would  observe  that  the  route  by  Macassar 


FROM   CHINA  TO   EUROPE.  273 

strait  is  a  bad  one  in  December,  January,  and  February. 
Vessels  bound  to  Saigon  should  not  reach  these  waters  at 
that  season. 

§  151.  ROUTE  FROM  CHINA  TO  EUROPE,  (during  the  NE. 
monsoon,  from  October  to  April.} — From  September  to  the 
end  of  February  vessels  descend  the  China  sea  by  the  inner 
route,  described  in  §  1G7.  This  route  seems  preferable  at 
this  season,  as  it  is  shorter,  and  a  ship  can  scud,  in  case  she 
finds  violent  NE.  winds  on  leaving  the  Great  Ladrone.  On 
the  contrary,  if  the  outer  route  be  taken,  a  ship  will,  under 
like  circumstances,  have  the  wind  and  sea  abeam,  and  be 
exposed  to  much  danger,  especially  if  ladened  deeply. 

The  track  for  March  and  April  runs  by  Macclesfield  bank 
and  east  of  Sapafca,  when  it  joins  the  outer  route,  described 
in  §  167.  Quicker  passages  are  made  by  this  route  at  this 
season,  as  it  keeps  well  to  the  eastward  in  the  China  sea. 

In  all  cases,  the  entrance  to  the  Indian  ocean  is  made  by 
the  strait  of  Sunda. 

Vessels  should  keep  a  trifle  to  eastward  of  105°  E.  while 
crossing  the  equator,  and  run  through  Banka  strait,  when 
they  come  from  the  inner  route;  still  Caspar  can  be  used, 
in  which  case,  after  leaving  Pulu  Aor,  the  course  is  15  or 
18  miles  east  of  Toty  island,  and  thence  for  the  strait. 
Coming  from  the  outer  route  the  rule  is  to  take  Caspar 
strait,  as  it  offers  the  most  direct  voyage  ;  still  it  is  a  dan- 
gerous passage,  and  there  are  many  instances  of  shipwreck 
in  that  locality.  Macclesfield  and  Stolze  channels  are  the 
best.  On  the  homeward  passage  from  Singapore  either  Khio 
or  Durian  and  then  Banka  strait  are  taken.  Vessels  leaving 
Saigon  should  reach  Pulo  Aor,  as  stated  in  §  170,  and  then 
take  Banka  strait. 

Once  clear  of  the  strait  of  Sunda  lay  the  course  with  the 
variable  N  W.  winds,  to  pass  east  of  the  Keeling  islands,  and 
reach,  as  soon  as  possible,  the  parallel  on  which  it  is  the 
intention  to  run  down  the  longitude.  The  trades  will  be 
found  steady  between  18°  and  19°  S.,  except  from  February 
to  May,  when  they  are  settled  at  15°  S.  It  is  best  to  pass 
about  240  miles  east  of  Rodriguez  island,  so  as  to  avoid,  as 
much  as  possible,  the  zone  of  cyclones,  which  are  to  be 
feared  until  April.  Thence  pass  about  100  miles  south  of 
Madagascar.  After  reaching  26°  or  26°  30'  S.,  head  WSW. 
and  sight  the  African  coast  near  Port  Natal  or  Algoa  bay, 
18  N 


274  FROM   CHINA  TO  EUROPE. 

For  further  instructions  vide  the  "  Navigation  of  the  At- 
lantic." 

§  152'   KOUTE  FROM  CHINA  TO  EUROPE,  (during  the  SW. 

monsoon  from  April  to  October.} — Ships  should  return  to 
Europe,  at  this  season,  by  one  of  the  easterly  routes  described 
below. 

After  leaving  Hong-Kong  about  the  end  of  April  or  the 
beginning  of  May  they  should  take  the  first  easterly  route, 
follow  the  west  coast  of  the  Philippines,  and  take  Mindoro 
and  Basil  an  straits.  Thence  they  can  either  run  through 
Macassar  and  the  strait  of Sundaj  Molucca  passage,  Salayer 
and  Lombok  straits ;  Molucca  passage  and  Oinbay  strait,  or 
finally  passing  the  Sevangani  islands,  Gilolo  passage,  the 
strait  between  Burn  and  Mauipa,  and  Ombay  strait. 

Vessels  leaving  Hong-Kong,  from  the  15th  May  to  the  end 
of  July,  can  take  the  second  easterly  route,  and  enter  the 
Pacific  north  of  Luzon.  Pass  east  of  the  Philippines  and 
make  Pitt  passage  by  either  Gilolo  or  Dainpier  straits. 

It  is  not  advisable  to  leave  Hong-Kong  in  August  unless 
absolutely  necessary,  or  in  a  well-fitted-out  and  weatherly 
ship.  However,  if  it  be  decided  to  sail  during  this  month, 
take  the  inner  route,  follQwiug  the  coast  of  Cochin-China, 
as  stated  in  §  167.  The  inner  route  will  also  be  easy  to  follow 
after  the  1st  of  September,  (vide  §  151.) 

Starting  from  Saigon,  conform  to  the  instructions  given  in 
§  170. 

Starting  from  Singapore,  it  is  generally  best  to  run  through 
Durian  and  Bauka  straits. 

In  all  cases,  after  the  Indian  ocean  is  once  reached,  run 
down  the  SB.  trades,  with  the  wind  free  on  the  port  tack, 
and  reach  19°  or  20°  S.  near  82°  E.  Make  the  westing  on 
this  latitude,  as  the  trades  are  here  steady,  and  pass  about 
120  miles  east  of  Eodriguez,  then  about  100  miles  S.  of 
Madagascar.  When  about  26°  or  26°  30'  S.  steer  WSW. 
and  sight  the  African  coast  near  Port  Natal  or  Algoa  bay. 
Once  around  the  cape  of  Good  Hope  follow  the  instructions 
in  the  "  Navigation  of  the  Atlantic." 

We  will  now  give  Horsburgh's  instructions  on  the  two 
easterly  routes : 

roite,  when6  yoJ  "  Departing  from  the  Grand  Ladrone  in  May,  steer  south- 
beeatw^nontheKi05tS  ward  to  the  Macclesfield  bank.  Then  steer  to  the  SE.  by 
i5thil  May  *J?  the  wind;  although  unable  to  weather  point  Calavitte, 

ater. 


FROM   CHINA   TO  EUROPE.  275 

variable  winds  may  be  expected  near  the  coast  of  Luzon  to 
carry  you  round  the  NW.  end  of  Mindoro.  If  you  adopt 
the  eastern  strait,  or  that  formed  between  Mindoro  and 
Appo  shoal,  keep  within  10  miles  of  the  coast  in  passing  the 
latter  in  day-time.  Keep  about  15  miles  from  the  islands 
Ambolon  and  Ylin  in  passing,  when  their  southern  extrem- 
ity bears  between  SE.  by  E.  £  E.  and  ENE.,  to  give  a  berth 
to  coral  shoals  which  lie  to  the  westward  of  them. 

"  Northumberland  strait,  or  that  formed  between  Appo 
shoal  and  the  Calamiaues,  should  be  chosen  if  the  wind 
admit.'7 

Whatever  passage  may  have  been  taken  when  the  wind 
is  from  W.,  and  you  have  raised  the  southern  extremity  of 
the  Calamianes,  16  or  18  miles  to  the  westward,  head  S.  by 
E.  or  SSE.  and  run  toward  Quinuluban  island,  to  pass 
to  the  westward  of  Dry  Sand  bank.  Thence  bear  S.  along 
the  west  coast  of  Panay,  with  the  prevailing  S.  to  W.  winds. 
The  weather  is  frequently  cloudy  and  rainy  when  these 
winds  blow.  The  currents  are  moderate  and  sometimes  set 
E.  between  Negros  and  the  N.  of  Mindanao. 

After  leaving  Kaso  point,  if  possible,  head  SSW.,  unless 
the  wind  is  from  E.,  in  which  case  stand  for  point  Balago- 
iian.  After  reaching  the  SW.  extremity  of  Mindanao  run 
for  Basilan  strait. 

Route  by  Macassar. — After  leaving  Basilau  pass  through 
Macassar  strait,  especially  if  bound  to  Batavia  or  through 
the  strait  of  Sunda.  European-bound  vessels,  taking  this 
route,  should  shape  their  course  as  stated  in  §  167,  and  thus 
sight  Tanjong  Kauiongan  and  run  down  the  west  coast  of 
Celebes  east  of  the  Little  Pater  Noster  group.  Thence  they 
should  attempt  to  fetch  Alias  strait,  which  can  rarely  be 
done  without  tacking,  in  order  to  double  theKalkoen  islands 
and  the  shoals  to  eastward.  Just  here  is  the  real  difficulty 
of  the  Macassar  route,  as  vessels  generally  have  to  work  to 
windward  at  this  season  to  reach  Alias  strait.  Molucca 
passage  is  therefore  perhaps  preferable  for  a  sailing-vessel, 
as  it  will  enable  her  to  strike  the  SE.  monsoon  well  to  wind- 
ward. 

Eoute  by  Molucca  to  Gilolo  passage. — After  leaving  Basilan 
steer  for  the  KE.  extremity  of  Celebes,  pass  between  Banka 
and  Bejaren  ;  thence  bear  south  and  run  through  the  chan- 
nel between  Lisa-matula  and  Obi  Major,  or  through  Grey- 


276  FROM  CHINA  TO  EUROPE. 

hound  strait.  The  currents  in  the  Molucca  passage  gener- 
ally set  to  the  N.  ;  they  are  not,  however,  steady,  and  the 
head  winds  are  light  and  variable. 

Vessels  arriving  off  the  N.  extremity  of  Gilolo  or  Morty, 
and  finding  the  monsoon  strong  from  SW.,  will  do  well  to 
take  Gilolo  strait  instead  of  the  Molucca  passage,  (vide  sec- 
ond easterly  route.) 

The  Molucca  passage  may  be  pursued,  keeping  close  to 
Obi  Major  and  passing  E.  of  Buru,  and  between  it  and 
Marripa.* 

Thence,  if  the  prevailing  ESE.  winds  allow,  run  to  wind- 
ward of  Ombay,  between  that  island  and  Wetta.  Follow 
the  NW.  coast  of  Timor,  and  enter  the  Pacific  by  the  pas- 
sage between  Semao  and  Savu. 

If  unable  to  fetch  to  windward  of  Ombay,  run  through 
Alloo  or  Flores  strait.  Bat,  these  passages  being  narrow 
and  subject  to  rapid  currents,  it  is  preferable,  under  such 
circumstances,  to  keep  along  the  north  coast  of  Flores,  on 
the  parallel  of  8°  S.,  thus  avoiding  the  shoal  water  near  the 
coast  of  this  large  island.  The  vessel  can  afterward  enter 
the  Pacific  by  Sapi  strait, 
sa.  Easterly  After  clearing  Lema  channel,  head  S.,  and  thus  place  the 

route,  when  you  .  ....  , ,        „,      . ,,       . ,. 

leave  from  the  vessel  in  good  position  for  entering  the  Pacific,  if  possible, 
May\o  July.  °  by  the  channel  between  the  Babuyans  and  Bashees.  SE. 
winds  may  be  expected  between  Luzon  and  Formosa;  ty- 
phoons are  also  common  in  this  locality,  (vide  §  20.)  Once 
within  the  limits  of  the  Pacific,  SW.  winds  and  NE.  or  E. 
currents,  with  a  rate  of  from  8  to  10  miles  per  day,  may  be 
looked  for.  After  standing  SE.  and  giving  cape  Engano 
and  Luzon  a  wide  berth,  pass  W.  of  the  Pelew  islands,  if 
the  wind  permit,  and  a  little  to  E.  of  "Saint  Andrew  and 
Mariere  islands  and  Helen  reef.  The  currents  are  not  very 
strong  north  of  the  latitude  of  the  southern  extremity  of  the 
Pelew  group.  But  south  of  6°  N.,  and  particularly  between 
5°  and  2°  N.,  during  June,  July,  and  August,  an  easterly 
current,  varying  from  30  to  60  miles  per  day,  may  be  ex- 
pected. Cross  this  zone  as  quickly  as  possible  on  a  S.  or 
SW.  course,  and,  if  drifted  very  far  to  the  eastward,  seek 
the  westerly  currents,  which  prevail  between  2°  N.  and  the 
equator.  These  have  a  speed  of  from  15  to  30  or  even  40 

*  If  you  cannot  run  E.  of  Buru,  double  the  W.  extremity  of  the  island, 
as  stated  under  the  head  of  the  second  easterly  route. 


FROM  CHINA  TO  EUROPE.  277 

miles  per  day  near  New  Guinea  and  the  N.  coast  of  Way- 
giou.  Near  the  entrance  of  Dampier  strait  the  current  sets 
to  the  east. 

The  best  route  is  through  Gilolo  channel,  and  to  follow 
it  a  vessel  should,  after  reaching  2°  N.,  steer  for  the  Asia 
islands,  rounding  them  to  north  ward  if  possible;  if  not,  to 
southward,  between  them  and  the  Aiu  islands.  Afterward 
double  Eye  and  Syang  islands,  and  pass  Gebe  on  either 
side,  unless  the  weather  is  uncertain,  when  run  west  of  this 
island.  Thence  a  vessel  will  have  to  keep  a  little  east  of 
S.,  to  allow  for  the  westerly  current,  which  prevails  oft'  the 
southern  extremity  of  Gilolo.  Finally  enter  Pitt  passage  by 
the  large  channel,  between  Pulo  Pisang  and  the  Bu  islands, 
or  by  the  passage  between  Kekik  and  Pulo  Gasses,  and 
after  running  between  Buru  and  Manipa,  make  for  Ombay 
strait.  But,  if  unable  to  reach  the  passage  east  of  Buru, 
or,  as  sometimes  happens,  the  wind  comes  out  strong  from 
S.,  follow  the  north  coast  of  Buru  and  run  west  of  that 
island.  Then,  if  the  ship  be  kept  close  to  the  wind,  she 
may  still  fetch  Ombay  strait.  Look  out  for  the  St.  Mathew 
and  Welthoen  islands,  while  standing  between  the  west 
extremity  of  Buru  and  Ombay  on  the  port  tack.  Make 
Ombay  strait  if  possible;  if  impossible,  run  through  one  of 
the  straits  to  westward — Sapi  strait  is  the  best.  Instruc- 
tions are  also  given  on  the  last  part  of  this  voyage  under 
the  head  of  the  "  First  easterly  route." 


CHAPTER    VIII. 

Routes  to  the  northward  in  the  China  sea. 

§  153.  BOUTE  FROM  SINGAPORE  TO  SAIGON.— The  fol- 
lowing quotation  is  from  the  Annales  Hydrographiques,  voL 
23.  and  is  a  description  of  this  routs  given  by  Captain  Lof- 
tus,  of  the  Kensington: 

"  ^n  ^eaving  Singapore  in  December,  January,  or  Feb- 
ruary, it  is  advisable  when  the  wind  is  strong  from  NE.  to 
anchor  under  the  lee  of  the  Water  islands  in  9  or  10  fath- 
oms. While  these  gales  prevail  it  is  generally  rainy  for  2 
or  3  days.  At  the  same  time,  the  currents  outside  the 
straits  set  to  SSE.,  with  a  speed  of  2.5  or  3  knots.  If  once 
under  way  the  port  tack  will  take  the  vessel  well  to  leeward 
of  St.  Barbe  island ;  navigators  are  thus  enabled  to  beat  up 
under  the  west  coast  of  Borneo.  After  these  NE.  ivinds  the 
weather  is  generally  fine ;  the  wind  shifts  to  N.  and  NW., 
and  the  current  in  the  offing  has  a  rate  of  only  1^  knots. 
The  best  time  to  heave  up  anchor  at  the  Water  islands  is  at 
the  beginning  of  the  ebb;  the  course  thence  is  NE.,  rap-full, 
so  as  to  pass  between  Subi  or  Low  island  and  the  Great 
Natunas.  This  is  easy  to  accomplish  at  full  and  new  moon, 
as  the  wind  after  several  hours  of  calm  often  hauls  to  the 
west  with  rain-squalls,  then  shifts  to  S  W.  and  S.,  from  which 
point  it  blows  moderately  for  about  26  hours.  Vessels  tak- 
ing advantage  of  these  circumstances,  and  passing  to  wind- 
ward of  Subi,  will  avoid  the  difficult  channels  which  sepa- 
rate that  island  from  the  NW.  coast  of  Borneo.  If  able  to 
reach  Low  island,  (107°  48'  E.,)  and  if  the  wind  is  steady 
from  E.,  head  about  N.  on  the  starboard  tack,  and  keep  at 
least  3  miles  W.  of  the  SW.  coast  of  Low  island.  Thence 
continue  to  run  N.,  and  give  Haycock  island  a  berth  of  at 
least  3  or  4  miles,  thus  avoiding  a  coral  bank  which  extends 
for  more  than  3  miles  from  its  SW.  shore.  During  the 
night  it  is  dangerous  to  run  east  of  this  island.  After  pass- 
ing Low  and  Haycock  islands,  no  difficulty  will  be  ex- 
perienced in  beating  up  for  the  SW.  point  of  the  Great 


FROM    SINGAPORE   TO   SAIGON.  279 

Natuua,  as  the  islands  break  the  force  of  the  SW.  current. 
If  the  weather  be  fine  a  land-breeze  will  be  found  at  night 
off  the  S.  coast  of  Great  Natuna,  but  do  not  get  closer  than 
2  or  3  miles  if  the  wind  be  light,  as  the  water  is  deep  and 
affords  no  anchorage.  Between  Great  Natuna  and  South 
Natuna,  the  passage  is  about  50  miles  broad  and  clear  of 
dangers.  Koti  passage,  between  Pulo  Pujang  and  Sirhas- 
san,  is  equally  good  and  about  10  miles  broad.  There  is 
another  good  channel  south  of  Sirhassan  ;  it  is  not  as  broad, 
but  by  keeping  close  to  the  south  coast  of  the  island  all 
dangers  will  be  avoided.  Api  passage  is  the  worst  of  all 
for  a  large  ship,  as  the  currents  are  irregular  and  sometimes 
set  to  SW.  with  great  force ;  besides,  she  will  have  to  beat 
through  it  close  under  the  Borneo  coast  in  10  or  11  fathoms 
of  water  in  order  to  avoid  the  current  and  take  advantage 
of  the  land-breeze.  Very  strong  squalls  from  SE.  are,  more- 
over, common  in  this  locality;  they  are  preceded  by  black 
rain-clouds  and  last  about  2  hours,  the  wind  hauling  to  the 
E.  as  they  pass  over. 

"If  the  north  wind  holds  as  far  as  West  island  after 
leaving  the  straits,  take  Koti  passage,  keeping  a  good  dis- 
tance from  Pulo-Pujang  in  order  to  avoid  the  reef  situated 
south  of  Flat  island.  The  coast  of  Sirhassau  can  be  ap- 
proached from  the  northward,  as  there  are  no  dangers  in 
that  locality.  After  clearing  the  passage  do  your  best  to 
reach  112°  E.;  this  will  be  easy  to  accomplish,  as  the  wind 
is  often  N.  and  NNW.  near  these  islands ;  but  beyond  cape 
Sirik  (about  111°  E.)  the  wind  generally  hauls  to  N.  and 
NE.  Thence,  stand  on  the  starboard  tack,  under  all  plain 
sail,  for  cape  Tiwane,  on  the  coast  of  Cochin-China.  The  cur- 
rent will  be  trifling  until  the  west  coast  of  the  banks  and 
7°  N.  is  passed ;  but  farther  north  and  until  the  mouth  of 
the  Cambodia  bears  W.,  distant  about  70  miles,  SW. 
currents  exist,  running  at  a  speed  of  3  knots  during  the 
strong  winds  which  blow  at  the  beginning  of  the  monsoon- 

"Toward  the  end  of  March  and  in  April,  east  winds  are 
often  found  to  the  eastward  of  the  Anambas  islands  ;  these 
will  be  kept  as  far  as  the  Brothers,  about  24  miles  W.  by 
S.  of  Pulo  Condore.  Beat  up  inside  of  this  island  as  far  as 
cape  St.  James,  keeping  close  to  the  coast  of  Cambodia, 
which  is  very  low  and  hard  to  see  during  the  night.  After 
the  mouths  of  the  Cambodia  are  opened,  the  ebb  tide  sets 


280  FROM    SINGAPORE   TO   SAIGON. 

to  windward,  and  is  consequently  very  favorable  for  vessels 
skirting  the  land  on  the  starboard  tack ;  on  the  other  hand? 
they  should  not  approach  the  mouths  of  the  river  during 
the  flood,  nor  get  inside  of  11  fathoms  during  the  night- 
The  land  can  be  seen  for  10  miles  from  deck  on  a  clear  day. 
Keep  the  lead  going  when  on  the  shore  tack. 

"  In  May,  vessels  make  the  quickest  passage  from  Singa- 
pore to  Saigon  by  keeping  along  the  coast  of  the  Malay 
peninsula  and  crossing  the  gulf  of  Siam.  At  this  season 
squalls,  calms,  rain,  and  a  light  NE.  current  are  often  found 
off  the  gulf. 

" In  December,  January,  February,  and  sometimes  in  March, 
vessels  are  exposed  to  gales  from  NE.  and  NNE.  between 
Pulo-Sapata  (109°  E.)  and  the  coast  of  Cochiu-China.  They 
can  be  foretold  by  a  gradual  rise  of  the  barometer  and  last 
2  or  3  days,  with  a  heavy  sea  and  strong  current ;  the  ba- 
rometer begins  to  fall  before  the  end  of  the  gale;  the  sky 
is  overcast  and  heavy.  If  the  laud  has  been  seen,  and  the 
meridian  of  cape  St.  James  can  be  made  during  the  gales. 
run  for  Pulo-Condore  and  find  a  sheltered  anchorage  in 
Great  bay.  If  the  wind  be  E.,  vessels  will  find  a  more 
snug  anchorage  at  the  harbor  of  Pulo-Condore,  situated  be- 
tween the  western  extremity  of  the  largest  islands  and 
Little  Condore. 

"Coming  from  the  south  during  the  NE.  monsoon,  make 
the  landfall  well  to  windward  and  thus  avoid  being  carried 
too  close  to  Bassok  bank  and  to  leeward  of  cape  St.  James 
by  the  flood  tide  and  permanent  SW.  by  W.  coast  current. 
The  ebb  tide  is  strong  and  to  NE.  by  E. ;  at  full  and 
change  it  commences  to  run  out  of  the  river  about  mid- 
night. In  fine  weather  the  wind  commences  about  90  miles 
from  land  to  haul  to  ENE.  and  E.  after  4  p.  m.,  and  is 
quite  fresh  and  squally  during  the  night.  Should  the  ship 
be  to  leeward  or  on  the  meridian  of  cape  St.  James  while 
running  for  the  land,  the  ebb  tide  will  set  her  to  windward 
of  cape  Tiwan  by  morning.  This  cape  can  be  seen  for  40 
miles.  It  bears  E.  19°  N.  from  cape  St.  James,  distant  13 
miles,  and  is  generally  the  first  land  sighted  coming  from 
the  south.  Being  abreast  of  cape  Tiwan,  cape  St.  James 
looks  like  two  low  islands.  There  is  a  fixed  white  light  on 
this  cape  elevated  483  feet  and  visible  28  miles  in  clear 
weather,  (HP  20'  N.,  107°  05'  E.)  Cape  St.  James  is  the 
first  land  sighted  when  coming  from  SW. 


FROM  SINGAPORE   TO   HONGKONG.  281 

"During  tins  season  the  wind  blows  from  SE.  to  W.  in    ^d.  Dunne  the 

?5  w.  monsoon. 

the  strait  of  Singapore;  consequently,  vessels  can  easily 
make  to  the  eastward.  Once  clear  of  the  strait  they  should 
lay  a  course  that  will  take  them  between  the  Brothers  and 
the  western  extremity  of  Pulo-Condore.  Due  allowance 
should  be  made  for  the  current  while  crossing  the  gulf  of 
Siam,  as  it  sets  to  E.  at  about  26  miles  per  day  in  this 
locality.  This  current  is  strongest  in  June,  July,  and 
August,  at  which  season  there  are  strong  W.  squalls,  heavy 
thunder,  violent  lightning,  and  plenty  of  rain.  The  wind 
remains  steady  at  W.  for  24  hours  after  these  squalls,  then 
hauls  to  SW.  and  moderates.  When  the  western  extremity 
of  Pulo-Coudore  bears  S.,  and  the  wind  is  W.,  and  the  cur- 
rent setting  to  the  east,  head  N.  for  the  bar  at  the  mouth  of 
the  Cambodia.  As  the  rapid  currents  from  this  and  the 
Saigon  rivers  join  with  the  regular  easterly  current,  it  is 
best  to  keep  near  the  edge  of  the  bar  so  as  not  to  be  set  to 
leeward  of  the  meridian  of  cape  St.  James.  Keep  the  lead 
going,  and  when  less  than  10  fathoms  are  found  edge  away 
to  the  eastward,  and  thus  raise  cape  St.  James  to  NNE.; 
thence,  head  a  little  above  it  and  run  clear  of  the  coral 
bank  lying  SW.  by  W.  of  the  cape." 
§  154.  ROUTE  FROM  SINGAPORE  TO  HONG-KONG. —  i»t.  During  the 

o  >V.  niODSoon. 

We  give  below  three  different  routes  :  1st,  the  inner  route, 
followed  by  vessels  starting  in  March,  April,  and  May; 
2d,  the  outer  route,  used  from  the  end  of  May  to  the  begin- 
ning of  October;  3d,  the  route  by  Palawan  passage,  to  be 
followed  after  the  15th  October. 

The  inner  route  runs  along  the  coast  of  Cochin-China, 
and  passes  W.  of  the  Paracels.  The  outer  route  passes  E. 
of  Pulo-Sapata,  and  crosses  Maedesfield  bank.  The  third 
route  follows  the  W.  coast  of  Palawan  island,  and  the 
northern  part  of  Luzon.  Most  of  the  following  observations 
are  from  Horslurgh.  He  advises  this  route  for  March,  T**^  Tbe  inner 
April,  and  May,  and  adds  that  it  will  be  preferable  even  in 
June  and  July  if  your  ship  is  in  bad  condition.  He  re- 
marks that  the  NW.  and  W.  gales,  which  come  from  the 
gulf  of  Tonquiu,  are  not  very  frequent,  and  that  by  taking 
this  route,  disabled  vessels  will  be  almost  continually  in 
sight  of  laud. 

Vessels  deciding  on  the  inner  route  should,  after  leaving 
Pulo-Aor,  run  along  the  land  as  far  as  the  Eedang  islands, 


282  FROM  SINGAPORE   TO   HONG-KONG. 

then  cross  the  entrance  to  the  gulf  of  Siain.  Thence  double 
Pulo-Obi,  and  follow  the  coasts  of  Cambodia  and  Cochiii- 
China  as  far  as  cape  Tourou.  Prom  this  point  make  for 
the  SW.  point  of  Hainan,  and  skirt  the  eastern  coast  of 
that  island  to  its  NE.  extremity,  passing  west  of  the  Taya 
islands.  Then,  stand  for  the  China  coast  near  Hai-ling-shan. 
According  to  Horsburgh,  all  the  islands  lying  between 
Tien  Pak,  Hai-ling-shan  and  Macao  can  be  approached 
without  danger  ;  there  are  also  several  harbors  of  refuge  in 
this  locality.  Typhoons  are  common  after  April,  (vide 
§  20.)  The  reader  should  also  refer  to  the  instructions  of 
M.  Noel,  given  in  §  157. 

sd.  The  outer  A  vessel  running  out  of  Singapore,  from  the  end  of  May 
to  the  beginning  of  October,  should,  when  a  trifle  to  east- 
ward of  Pulo-Aor,  head  for  Pulo-Sapata,  making  due 
allowance  for  the  easterly  current  which  comes  from  the 
gulf  of  Siam.  Horsburgh  advises  large  vessels  to  steer 
NNE.  after  leaving  Pulo-Aor,  and  until  they  reach  the 
latitude  of  Charlotte  bank.  Thence  they  should  head  NE. 
by  N.,  and  sight  Pulo-Sapata,  and,  after  passing  about  15 
or  20  miles  east  of  this  island,  stand  about  NE.  £  N. ,  allow- 
ing for  the  easterly  current;  soundings  may  be  obtained 
over  the  Macclesfield  bank.  The  course  from  this  point  to 
the  Great  Ladrone  is  N.  by  W. ;  but  when  it  blows  fresh 
from  S.  or  SW.,  keep  this  island  to  the  north  of  N.  by  E. 
It  will  likewise  be  prudent  not  to  sight  the  land  west  of 
Great  Ladrone,  and  to  keep  clear  of  St.  John  island. 

Vessels  should  not  take  this  outer  route  unless  certain  of 
reaching  Pulo-Sapata  by  the  first  of  October.  Toward  the 
middle  of  October  the  currents  about  this  island  set  strongly 
to  the  southward,  and  the  northerly  winds  are  often  light 
or  variable.  A  ship  taking  the  outer  route,  and  reaching 
Pulo-Sapata  after  the  1st  October,  should  not  stand  to  the 
eastward  until  she  reaches  13°  or  rather  14°  K,  when,  the 
wind  being  from  the  north  ward  and  eastward,  all  the  shoals 
will  be  passed  to  northward,  provided  long  stretches  to 
northward  and  short  ones  to  southward  be  taken  while 
beating  over  for  the  Luzon  coast.  Finish  the  voyage  as  in 
the  route  by  Palawan  passage,  by  running  up  the  coast  of 
Luzon  to  beyond  cape  Bolinao. 

It  is  imprudent,  especially  at  the  end  of  October  and  in 


FROM   SINGAPORE   TO   HONG-KONG.  283 

November,  to  approach  the  China  coast  to  westward  of  the 
Great  Ladrone. 

Passage  of  the  Duperre,  Captain  Bourgois,  (Ann.  Hydr., 
vol.  23.) — Left  Singapore  on  the  25th  May  with  a  variable 
breeze  from  S.  to  ESE.  Experienced  near  Pedra-Brnnca 
light  a  strong  squall  from  WNW.,  after  which  the  wind 
shifted  to  S\V.  and  SSE.  Gentle  and  light  breeze  from 
SSE.  till  the  30th  May,  position  GO  N.  and  about  108°  E., 
when  the  wind  hauled  to  WSW.,  and  died  away  at  S.  on 
the  following  days.  Position  on  the  3d  June,  12°  40'  K 
and  112°  10'  E.;  light  breeze  from  SE. ;  next  day  it  shifted 
to  NE.,  by  the  east,  and  after  jumping  around  to  SW.  in  a 
light  squall,  once  more  came  out  from  SE.  after  a  few  hours' 
calm.  From  the  5th  to  the  6th  moderate  wind  from  S.  to 
NE. ;  coppery  clouds,  and  a  typhoon  sky.  On  the  7th, 
violent  squalls  and  rain  in  torrents  ;  then  the  wind  hauled 
to  S.  and  moderated.  The  weather  grew  fine  and  we  cleared 
Macclesfield  bank.  On  the  9th,  light  variable  breeze  from 
SSW. ;  10th  and  llth,  calms  and  light  airs  from  W.  to 
NNW.;  on  the  12th,  fine  weather  and  light  west  wind; 
passed  east  of  the  Lema  islands;  beat  up  between  them 
and  Potoe  island;  crossed — with  everything  "touching" — 
the  narrow  channel  between  Lema  and  Hong-Kong  islands; 
doubled  Kellett  bank  to  the  north  ;  and  anchored  off  Hong- 
Kong  in  the  evening. 

On  departing  from  Pulo  Aor  after  the  beginning  of  Octo-  M.  The  route 
ber  pass  south  of  the  South  Anambas,  Low  island,  andjjg£ala 
Great  Natuua,  then  head  NE.,  so  as  to  pass  between  Louisa 
and  Koyal  Charlotte  banks.  Afterward  edge  away  to 
ENE.  so  as  to  keep  clear  of  both  the  Viper  shoals,  and  to 
sight  Balambangan.  With  a  S.  wind  pass  from  24  to  27 
miles  from  this  island  ;  but  when  the  wind  is  from  W.  keep 
about  45  miles  off,  and  head  for  Balabac  island,  rounding  it 
at  a  distance  of  27  or  30  miles ;  finally  if  the  wind  be  east- 
erly keep  closer  to  both  Balambangan  and  Balabac,  as  a 
strong  westerly  current  runs  out  of  the  strait  when  the 
wind  is  from  that  direction.  A  vessel  standing  NNE  after 
leaving  Balabac  will  pass  well  clear  of  the  banks  around 
Palawan  island,  and  to  W.  of  Half-Moon,  Investigator, 
Bombay,  and  Carnatic  shoals.  The  channel  is  27  or  30 
miles  broad  ;  and  it  is  well  to  sound  during  the  night, 
especially  between  9°  and  10°  K,  as  in  many  places  there 


284  FROM   SINGAPORE   TO   HONG-KONG. 

is  a  depth  of  50  fathoms  close  to  the  edge  of  the  shoals.  It 
is  best  to  pass  the  SW.  extremity  of  Palawan  at  about  30 
miles,  if  the  wind  will  permit,  and  keep  along  the  coast  at 
the  same  distance.  A  sharp  lookout  should  be  kept  for  the 
shoals  and  rocks,  which  extend  for  15  or  18  miles  in  a  NW. 
and  W.  direction  from  the  SW.  extremity  of  Palawan. 

If  the  wind  should  come  out  from  the  E.,  as  it  is  apt  to 
do  after  the  end  of  October,  head  for  the  NE.  point  of 
Palawan  and  the  Calamiaues  when  to  northward  of  the 
shoals;  and  after  sighting  the  islands  steer  for  Lubang. 
Thence,  coast  along  the  shore  of  Luzon,  and  pass  near  the 
Sister  and  Serpent  islands.  If  the  wind  be  from  S  W.  or 
west,  do  not  keep  so  close  to  the  shore,  especially  near  cape 
Bolinao,  which  is  surrounded  by  reefs;  the  currents  may 
also  set  the  ship  toward  the  gulf  of  Lingayen  if  care  be  not 
used  to  keep  at  a  good  distance  from  its  mouth. 

Once  past  cape  Bolinao,  vessels  can  ordinarily  cross  the 
China  sea  by  running  B.  of  Pratas  reef ;  unless  the  wind  is 
strong  from  NE.,  and  the  current  setting  rapidly  to  SW. 
In  this  case  it  will  be  better,  in  an  ordinary  sailer,  to  run 
up  the  coast  of  Luzon  as  far  as  cape  Bojador;  from  which 
point  the  China  coast  can  be  made  to  eastward  of  the  Lema 
islands.  Never  run  to  leeward  of  this  group. 

Independently  of  the  Palawan  route,  just  described, 
which  can  be  followed  at  the  beginning  of  the  NE.  monsoon, 
there  are  two  other  principal  routes  from  Singapore  to 
Hong  Kong.* 

The  first  route  by  Macassar  strait  can  be  taken  when 
Pulo-Laut  is  reached,  before  the  15th  November,  or  toward 
the  middle  of  February.  The  second  route  by  Pitt  passage, 
which  also  runs  through  Gilolo  or  Dampier  strait,  is  advised 
for  December  and  January. 

After  leaving  Singapore  vessels  should  follow  the  instruc- 
tions given  in  §  114,  for  the  run  through  Macassar  strait. 
After  doubling  Mankap  shoals  and  reaching  3°  50'  S.,  on 
soundings  of  at  least  19  or  20  fathoms,  they  should  head 
about  E.  by  S.,  keeping  along  the  coast  of  Borneo  in  about 
18  to  25  fathoms.  They  should  not  get  in  less  water  until 
over  the  bank  off  Salatau  point,  where  the  depth  is  from  12 
to  15  fathoms.  This  point  bears  E.  £  S.  from  Mankap 

*  We  think  that  auxiliary  steamers  can  steam  through  Palawan  pass- 
age during  the  NE.  monsoon. 


FROM  SINGAPORE   TO  MANILA.  285 

shoals,  distant  about  276  miles.  The  track  keeps  in  about 
14  fathoms  while  doubling  the  highlands  of  Salatan  point ; 
and  within  24  or  30  miles  of  it.  Thence,  head  B.  for  the 
Moresses  islands;  but  do  not  follow  the  18-fathom  line,  as 
Horsburgh  states  there  is  a  rock  near  that  locality ;  how- 
ever, careful  navigators  can  run  into  as  shoal  water  as  8  or 
even  7  fathoms.  Do  not  approach  the  Moresses  nearer 
than  3  miles  during  the  night,  and  run  either  north  or  south 
of  this  group.  Beyond  this,  there  are  two  little  islands, 
united  by  a  reef,  and  called  the  Brothers.  Keep  a  lookout 
also  for  the  three  islets  lying  near  the  S.  point  of  the  large 
Pulo-Laut.  Button  rock  is  off  the  E.  coast  of  the  southern 
island.  Do  not  attempt  to  pass  inside  of  these  islets. 

The  SE.  part  of  Great  Pulo-Laut  once  passed,  head  up  for 
Macassar  strait,  and  follow  the  coast  of  Borneo,  as  stated 
in  the  second  part  of  §  150.  But  vessels  desiring  to  ascend 
the  W.  coast  of  Celebes  should,  after  leaving  the  SE.  ex- 
tremity of  Great  Pulo-Laut,  steer  ENE.,  if  possible,  and  thus 
reach  Celebes  a  little  to  northward  of  cape  Maudhar. 
Soundings  should  be  frequently  taken  during  this  part  of 
the  voyage,  as  there  are  several  shoals  between  Borneo  and 
Celebes.  The  Triangles  and  Union  bank  should  be  left 
to  northward,  and  Laurel  and  Waller  banks  to  southward. 
In  both  cases  the.  voyage  should  be  finished  as  indicated  in 
§  150  under  the  head  of  the  route  by  MMHXMU'. 

This  route  should  be  followed  from  December  to  Febru-  ad.  Route  by 
ary.  The  voyage  from  Singapore  to  Pitt  passage  should 
be  made  according  to  the  instructions  given  in  §  114,  under 
the  head  of  the  proper  route  during  the  NE.  monsoon. 
Pitt  passage  can  be  reached  either  from  the  north  of  Buru, 
or  from  to  eastward  of  that  island,  between  it  and  Manipa. 
For  information  relative  to  the  latter  part  of  the  voyage 
vide  §  150,  second  route.  Gilolo  strait  is  most  frequented, 
especially  during  December  and  March.  Dam  pier  strait 
should  only  be  taken  in  January  and  February. 

§  155.  EOUTE  FROM   SINGAPORE  TO  MANILA.— Either   ist.Duringthe 
the  inner  or  outer  route  can  be  taken  as  far  as  Pulo  Sapata, sw>m 
according  to  circumstances,  (vide  §§  153  and  154.)     From 
Pulo-Sapata  stand  to  the  northward  and  eastward,  and 
finish  the  passage  as  described  in  §  158.     In  October  take 
Palawan  passage,  (vide  §  154.) 


286  FROM  SINGAPORE   TO   SHANGHAE  AND   YOKOHAMA. 


The  route  by  Macassar  strhit  (vide  §  154)  is  used  in  Octo- 
ber, November,  and  even  in  December;  also  during  the 
month  of  March.  After  having  followed  the  W.  coast  of 
Mindoro  as  far  as  point  Calavite,  keep  west  of  Lubang  and 
Cabra  islands,  and  steer  for  Corregidor  islet. 

But,  from  December  to  February,  sailing-vessels  are 
obliged  to  take  the  easterly  route,  described  in  §  154  under 
the  head  of  the  route  by  Pitt  passage.  Thence,  they  should 
run  through  San  Bernardino  strait,  and  pass  between  Min- 
doro and  Luzon. 

In  short,  sailing-vessels  should  avoid  leaving  Singapore 
between  the  beginning  of  November  and  the  beginning  of 
February,  so  as  not  to  have  to  make  the  long  easterly  route. 
If  possible,  they  should  only  take  the  direct  route  during 
the  SW.  monsoon  ;  the  Palawan  route  at  the  end  of  the 
SW.  monsoon  ;  or  the  Macassar  route  in  October,  Novem- 
ber, December,  .and  March. 

1st.  During  the      §  156.  EOUTE  FROM  SINGAPORE  TO  SHANGHAE  AND  YO- 

sw.  monsoon.  KOHAMA.__Make  the  northing  in  the  China  sea,  by  follow- 
ing —  according  to  circumstances  —  one  of  the  three  routes 
given  in  §  154.  Whether  bound  to  Shanghae,  Nagasaki,  or 
Yokohama,  run  through  Formosa  channel.  The  passage 
from  Van  Diemen's  strait  to  Yokohama  will  be  easy,  as  both 
wind  and  current  will  be  favorable.  Auxiliary  steamers  can 
sail  through  the  Inland  sea. 

It  may  be  shorter,  but  is  certainly  less  prudent,  to  run 
east  of  Formosa.  Vessels  bound  to  Nagasaki,  and  taking 
this  route,  should  sight  the  Hoa-pin-su  islands  after  leav- 
ing the  E.  coast  of  Formosa  ;  and  afterward  head  so  as  to 
pass  close  to  the  eastward  of  Meico-sima  chain. 

Those  bound  to  Yokohama  should  leave  the  China  sea 
north  of  the  Bashees,  and  keep  in  the  Kuro-Siwo,  (vide 
§  37  ;)  they  should  also  pass  east  of  the  Meico-siina,  and  Loo 
Choo  chain  of  islands. 

We  cannot  advise  the  route  via  the  east  coast  of  Formosa, 
as  vessels  are  very  likely  to  meet  typhoons  in  that  locality, 
a  danger  they  will  probably  avoid  if  they  run  through  For- 
mosa channel. 

The  reader  should  also  refer  to  §  159,  where  he  will  find 
a  few  instructions  for  the  end  of  this  voyage. 

The  following  observations  are  by  an  old  steamboat  cap- 
tain, of  great  experience  in  the  China  sea  : 


FROM  SINGAPORE   TO   YOKOHAMA.  287 

"July  and  August  are  tbe  worst  months  in  the  north  of 
the  China  sea;  that  is,  beyond  the  head  of  Formosa  chan- 
nel. In  the  southern  part — from  the  lower  end  of  Formosa 
channel  to  cape  Varela — September  and  October  are  the 
worst.  Navigation  is  therefore  dangerous  from  July  to  the 
beginning  of  November.  It  can  be  stated,  in  a  general  way, 
that  there  are  no  typhoons  in  the  Formosa  channel ;  as  these 
storms,  ordinarily  coming  from  the  east,  are  broken  by  the 
high  mountains  of  Formosa. 

"  It  is  advantageous  at  all  seasons  to  take  Formosa  chan- 
nel when  bound  north.  I  once  attempted  the  outside  route, 
and  had  a  hard  time  of  it,  encountering  a  gale  and  a  con- 
trary current  setting  to  S.  at  a  rate  of  80  miles  per  day. 
Another  steamer  that  left  the  same  time  I  did,  took  the 
channel,  and,  though  a  slow  vessel,  arrived  the  day  after. 
She  had  experienced  no  gale,  and  found  very  strong  east- 
erly currents. 

"  The  Meico-sima  islands  seem  to  be  especially  attractive 
to  all  the  Pacific  storms;  besides,  the  hydrography  is  uncer- 
tain. 

u  Ill-conditioned  vessels  leaving  Saigon  for  Yokohama 
will  do  well  to  put  into  Hong  Kong,  and  wait  there  for  a 
good  spell  of  weather,  and  until  after  the  new  moon.  Keep 
an  eye  on  the  barometer  after  leaving  Hong- Kong. 

"  The  beautiful  and  safe  bay  of  Pescadores  is  in  Formosa 
channel ;  you  never  lose  sight  of  the  China  coast,  and  its 
numerous  harbors,  and  the  typhoons  of  this  locality  never 
attain  the  violence  that  they  do  off  the  east  coast  of  For- 
mosa. A  vessel  can  make  Chusan,  if  necessary ;  and  thence 
run  for  Nagasaki.  After  waiting  here  for  good  weather, 
she  can  take  the  Inland  sea,  and  reach  Yokohama  with  a 
smooth  sea  all  the  way. 

"  In  this  manner  all  the  dangerous  localities  are  avoided, 
while  the  voyage  from  Saigon  to  Yokohama  is  only  length- 
ened by  about  150  miles.  The  most  important  point  is  to  be 
acquainted  with  the  Japanese  ports  of  refuge.  Simoda,  not- 
withstanding all  that  has  been  thought  to  the  contrary,  is 
a  safe,  deep  anchorage. 

"  The  Kuro-Siwo,  or  black  current,  is  very  changeable. 
It  is  hardly  40  miles  wide ;  is  sometimes  found  near  the 
coast  of  Japan,  and  at  others  far  from  it.  It  does  not  ap- 


288  FROM   SAIGON   TO   HONG-KONG. 

pear  to  have  much  depth,  and  too  much  reliance  must  not 
be  placed  upon  it. 

"  The  regular  S.  monsoon,  between  Saigon  and  Hong- 
Kong,  is  variable,  and  uncertain  between  Hong-Kong  and 
Yokohama.  In  July  and  August  northerly  gales  are  quite 
common  near  Formosa.'7 

ad.  During  the  Vessels  leaving  after  the  beginning  of  October  will  do 
well  to  take  the  easterly  route,  by  Pitt  passage,  described 
in  §  114.  They  can  make  Pitt  passage,  either  from  the 
north  of  Buru,  or  by  passing  between  this  island  and  Ma- 
nipaj  and,  afterward,  make  their  northing  according  to  the 
instructions  given  in  §  150. 

It  will  be  particularly  advantageous  to  vessels  bound  to 
Shanghae  and  Yokohama  to  run  to  the  east  between  1°  30' 
and  3°  N.,  until  they  can  pass  to  eastward  of  the  Pelew 
islands.  We  think  this  recommendation  important.  Once 
beyond  3°  N.  and  the  Pelews,  the  wind  will  generally  vary, 
(from  December  to  April,)  from  W.  to  E.,  passing  by  the 
IS",  point.  The  prevailing  direction,  however,  will  be  be- 
tween NE.  and  NW.,  until  north  of  10°  N.  As  a  general 
rule,  captains  should  choose  that  tack  which  will  give  them  the 
most  northing.  From  10°  to  20°  N.  the  prevailing  winds  are 
NE.,  varying  sometimes  to  ENE.  and  E.  A  good  sailer  can 
cross  200  N.  about  1 32°  or  134°  E.  Between  20°  and  30°  K 
the  winds  are  as  often  from  N  W.  as  they  are  from  NB.;  at  rare 
intervals  they  blow  from  SE.  It  is,  therefore,  generally  easy 
if  bound  to  Nagasaki  to  cross  30°  N.  near  132°  E.  and  thence 
to  take  the  Yan  Diemen  passage.  Captains  bound  to  Yo- 
kohama should  aim  to  cross  30°  IS",  between  132°  arid  134° 
E.;  the  current  will  be  favorable ;  and  north  of  30°  N.  the 
variable  winds  will  be  favorable.  If  bound  to  Shanghae, 
run  between  the  Loo-choo  islands  and  Ou-Sima  island ;  and 
thence  stand  for  the  Yang-tse-Kiang,  with  the  wind  abeam. 

1st.  Duringthe       §  157.   ROUTE  FROM  SAIGON  TO  HONG-KONG. — The  track 

SW.  monsoou. 

follows  the  inner  route  described  in  §  154.  Typhoons  may 
be  met  at  this  season,  on  the  voyage  from  Saigon  to  Hong- 
Kong.  The  reader  should  therefore  pay  great  attention  to 
the  observations  contained  in  §  20 ;  and  will  find  much  in- 
teresting information  in  the  following  quotations: 

Passage  of  the  steamer  Cambodge,  Lieutenant  Noel — uMes- 
sageries  imperiales"—from  Saigon  to  Hong-Kong,  (Ann.  Hydr. 


FROM  SAIGON  TO  HONG-KONG.  289 

vol.  28.)— "Left  Saigon  on  the  27th  September,  1865,  and  met 
a  fearful  storm  between  Hainan  and  the  Paracels. 

41  From  St.  James  to  cape  Varela,  fresh  SW.  monsoon ;  thJfJ^JjJ5j".  of 
barometer  29in.96.  On  the  28th,  blowing  hard  off  Pad- 
aran ;  ran  in  toward  the  land,  where  I  found  a  calm  and 
smooth  sea.  Threatening  sky  during  the  day,  barometer 
falling  slowly.  Ship  50  miles  from  Batangan,  at  daylight 
of  the  29th ;  very  heavy  swell  from  N.,  which  shifted  to  NW. 
during  the  day.  The  barometer  still  falling  at  7  a.  m.  The 
sky  becoming  of  a  grayish-lead  color,  with  a  black  scud 
chasing  in  all  directions ;  land  birds  and  insects  falling  on 
the  decks  ;  blasts  of  wind  from  the  N.,  and  heavy,  oppres- 
sive atmosphere.  Barometer,  at  4  p.  m.,  29in.69  ;  at  5  p.  in., 
29in.65.  About  8  p.  m.  on  the  29th  the  wind  burst  upon  us 
from  NW.  in  a  very  violent  squall,  carrying  away  the  fore- 
stay-sail  and  mainsail;  raining  in  torrents;  shipped  a 
heavy  sea.  The  barometer  continued  to  fall  during  the 
night ;  squalls  frequent ;  wind  already  very  strong  and  haul- 
ing successively  to  WNW.  and  WSW.  At  3  a.  m.  on  the 
30th  barometer,  29in.53 ;  soon  after  it  reached  its  extreme 
fall,  29in.49 ;  terrific  wind  from  SW. ;  torrents  of  rain  ;  torn- 
looking  clouds;  violent  bursts  of  wind;  enormous  and  bro- 
ken sea.  Luckily  we  were  in  the  more  moderate  semicircle ; 
and  about  6  a.  m.,  were  about  40  miles  from  the  center, 
bearing  NW.  From  the  evening  of  the  29th  till  2  a.  m.  of 
the  30th  ran  NE.,  thus  leaving  the  center  and  approaching 
Hong-Kong.  Without  a  stitch  of  canvas,  and  with  the 
engine  only  just  turning  over,  we  ran  off  from  10  to  11  knots, 
ship  behaving  admirably,  steering  well  notwithstanding  the 
heavy  sea,  and  rolling  very  easily.  At  3  p.  m.  fewer  squalls 
and  less  rain ;  set  the  foresail,  close-reefed.  At  4  p.  m.  the 
barometer  commenced  to  rise  rapidly  and  in  a  little  over  six 
hours  reached  29in.73.  Though  we  were  all  the  while  leaving 
the  center,  we  still  experienced  a  frightful  sea,  coming  from 
several  directions  ;  at  9  p.  m.  it  reached  its  worst,  (we  were 
then  at  the  point  over  which  the  center  had  passed  the  night 
before.)  The  wind  moderated  considerably  about  9  p.  m.,  after 
having  hauled  to  S.,  SSE.,  and  SE.  At  10  o'clock  the  ship 
was  out  of  the  track  of  the  typhoon.  On  arriving  at  Hong- 
19  N 


290  FROM  SAIGON   TO   HONG-KONG. 

Kong  we  found  that  the  storm  had  passed  over  the  island,* 
and  lasted  two  days." 

"  ^n^s  typhoon  was  traveling  from  E.  to  W.  when  we 
struck  it,  and  seemed  stationary  from  the  morning  of  the 
30th  at  4  a.  m.  until  4  p.  m.  of  the  same  day.  When  the 
typhoon  broke  upon  us  at  6  a.  in.  on  the  30th,  I  had  not 
been  able  to  obtain  any  observations  for  36  hours,  and  wras 
very  uncertain  of  my  position  ;  for  the  currents  had  proba- 
bly set  us  within  dangerous  proximity  to  Hainan,  while  on 
the  other  hand  it  was  quite  reasonable  to  suppose  that  the 
currents  had  been  deflected  from  the  neighboring  coasts  and 
were  drifting  me  to  SE.  or  toward  the  Paracels. 

"  In  1859  a  French  vessel,  while  on  the  dangerous  side  of 
a  typhoon,  went  ashore  on  Hainan,  at  the  very  moment 
when  the  captain  thought  she  was  dangerously  near  the 
Paracels.  By  analogy,  as  I  was  on  the  moderate  side,  and 
feared  Hainan,  there  was  a  chance  of  my  bringing  up  on 
the  Paracels.  Moreover,  if  I  had  to  .go  ashore,  I  preferred 
Hainan,  as  there  we  had  some  chance  of  saving  our  lives. 
As  I  ran  N.  from  the  afternoon  of  the  29th  till  the  next 
morning,  I  must  have  been  tolerably  clear  of  the  Paracels. 
My  observations  on  the  1st  October  put  me  60  miles  to  SSE. 
of  my  dead  reckoning ;  and  if  I  had  commenced  to  bear 
toward  the  northward  and  eastward  on  the  29th  it  is  highly 
probable  that  the  ship  would  have  been  lost  on  the  Paracels, 
as  these  60  miles  of  SSE.  current  occasioned  by  the  typhoon, 
(the  westerly  current  of  the  storm  was  deflected  by  the 
coasts  of  Hainan  and  Cochin-Ohiua,)  took  place  from  the 
29th  to  the  30th,  at  which  time  the  swell  was  heaviest  from 
NW.,  and  the  wind  strongest  from  NW.  and  W. 

"  My  opinion,  therefore,  is  that,  whenever  you  find  your- 
self off  the  mouth  of  the  gulf  of  Tonquin,  and  have  certain 
signs  of  an  approaching  typhoon,  the  only  thing  to  do  is  to 
look  for  an  anchorage  on  the  coast  of  Cochin-  China.  Nor  should 
you  get  under  way  until  the  barometer  and  state  of  the  sky 
clearly  show  that  the  storm  has  passed." 

Wben  tne  NE-  monsoon  has  once  fairly  set  in,  the  best 
route  is  that  by  Palawan  passage.  Cross  the  China  sea 
with  a  clean  full,  making  due  allowance  for  the  SW.  current. 

*As  I  write  the  above  there  comes,  by  telegraph,  the  account  of  the 
fearful  typhoon  at  Hong-Kong  on  the  27th  September,  1874.  A  singular 
coincidence. — Translator. 


FROM  SAIGON  TO  MANILA.  291 

Pass  well  to  the  northward  of  Charlotte  bank,  and  afterward 
S.  of  Luconia  reef.  The  aim  should  be  to  fetch  Louisa  reef, 
especially  in  an  auxiliary  steamer.  Pass  either  north  or 
south  of  this  reef,  according  to  circumstances,  but  keep  well 
clear  of  all  the  banks  lying  north  of  Lucouia  shoal,  viz, 
Sea  Horse,  George,  and  Friendship.  They  extend  for  a 
long  distance,  and  generally  compel  vessels  to  run  south  of 
Luconia  shoal. 

In  all  cases,  whether  trying  to  reach  the  passage  between 
Louisa  and  Royal  Charlotte,  or  that  S.  of  Lucouia,  invaria- 
bly give  a  wide  berth  to  the  Viper  shoal,  and  sight  Balam- 
bangau  island.  Finish  the  voyage  as  described  in  §  154 
under  the  head  of  "  the  Palawan  route.'7 

This  is  a  long,  tedious  voyage,  but  surer  and  subject  to 
less  bad  weather  during  the  strong  winds  of  the  monsoon. 

Vessels  starting  from  Saigon  in  October,  or  at  the  begin- 
ning of  November,  (especially  auxiliary  steamers,)  can 
greatly  shorten  the  route  by  keeping  along  the  coast  of 
Cochiii-Chma;  taking  advantage  of  the  land  and  sea  breezes, 
they  can  beat  up,  on  short  tacks,  as  far  as  cape  Padarau  j 
from  which  point  the  port  tack  will  fetch  them  across  the 
China  sea  to  windward  of  all  dangers,  after  making  plenty 
of  allowance  for  the  current.  The  route  then  keeps  along 
the  coast  of  Luzon,  and  again  crosses  the  China  sea,  as 
stated  under  "  the  route  by  Palawan  passage"  in  §  154. 

§158.  ROUTE  FROM  SAIGON  TO  MANILA.— According 
to  Horsburgh,  vessels  should  sight  Pulo-Sapata,  and  after 
passing  the  island  either  to  the  southward  or  eastward, 
head  NE.,  but  not  to  eastward  of  that  point,  until  they  have 
reached  12°  30'  N.  Beyond  this  parallel  the  track  is  for 
Lubang  or  Cabra  island,  and  keeps  north  of  all  the  banks 
in  this  eastern  part  of  the  China  sea.  After  passing  about 
9  miles  west  of  Fortune  island,  which  is  about  a  mile  in  ex- 
tent and  high  and  rocky,  head  for  Corregidor  island,  situ- 
ated in  the  middle  of  the  entrance  to  Manila  bay. 

We  can  only  repeat  the  instructions  given  in  §  157.  The N|d- 
Palawan  route  is  generally  taken,  especially  by  sailing- 
vessels  ;  but  the  route  across  the  China  sea  north  of  all  the 
shoals  is  perhaps  preferable  for  vessels  leaving  Saigon  in 
October  or  at  the  beginning  of  November  ;  it  is  especially 
adapted  to  auxiliary  steamers.  For  further  instructions 
the  reader  should  refer  to  §  157. 


292  FROM  HONGKONG   TO   SHANGHAE. 

§159.  KOUTE  FROM  HONG-KONG  TO  SHANGHAE.— Maury's 

instructions  contain  a  description  of  this  route,  which-  is 
due  to  Captain  Potter,  of  the  Architect,  and  runs  as  follows : 

"  Vessels  departing  from  Hong-Kong, bound  to  Shanghae, 
iQ  the  northeast  monsoon,  should  be  in  good  condition  to 
contend  with  rough  weather,  and  to  carry  sail.  Upon  leav- 
ing, the  Lyemun  or  Laruma  channel  can  be  taken,  the  lat- 
ter being  preferable  in  a  large  vessel.  When  clear  of  the 
islands,  the  wind  will  be  found  to  be  about  ENE.  generally, 
or  as  the  line  of  coast  trends,  and  when  the  monsoon  is  not 
heavy,  periodical  changes  of  wind  occur.  At  such  times 
vessels  should  be  close  in  with  the  laud,  early  in  the  morn- 
ing, and  tack  off  shore  at  about  8  o'clock,  standing  off 
till  about  2  p.  m.,  and  on  the  inshore  tack  standing 
boldly  in  to  the  coast,  making  such  arrangements  during 
the  night  as  will  bring  the  vessel  in  a  position  inshore 
again  in  the  morning.  When  the  monsoon  is  moderate, 
vessels  should  not  stand  far  into  the  bays,  as  they  will,  by 
so  doing,  experience  light  winds,  and  often  calms,  and,  on 
the  contrary,  when  the  monsoon  is  strong,  they  should 
stand  as  far  as  possible  in  to  the  bays,  and  not  stand  farther 
off  than  is  actually  necessary,  especially  as  the  changes  of 
wind  above  alluded  to  seldom  occur  at  such  times.  It 
would  be  well  to  add  here,  that  vessels  almost  always  go 
faster  inshore  than  they  do  off,  as  there  is  a  ground  swell 
heaving  after  them  when  in  with  the  laud. 

"  During  the  severe  monsoon  gales,  which  last  about 
three  days,  vessels  should  seek  shelter  in  one  of  the  numer- 
ous good  anchorages  to  the  westward  of  Breaker  point, 
when,  upon  the  breaking  up  of  the  gale,  they  can. make  a 
fresh  start,  and  perhaps  get  around  Formosa  before  encoun- 
tering another,  especially  after  the  month  of  November. 

"  Having  reached  Breaker  point>  vessels  should  then 
stretch  over  for  the  south  end  of  Formosa,  and  upon  getting 
to  the  eastward,  the  wind  will  be  found  to  veer  northerly, 
or  more,  as  the  coast  of  Formosa  trends ;  and  a  good  sail- 
ing-vessel will  be  almost  sure  to  fetch  the  south  cape  or 
Lamay  island  to  windward.  Upon  getting  in  with  the 
land,  light  variable  winds  and  calms  are  often  met  with, 
but  the  strong  current  to  the  SW.  will  very  soon  drift  the 
vessel  down,  when  she  will  find  the  breeze  coming  on  fresh 
again.  In  passing  South  cape  in  the  daytime,  vessels 


FROM  HONG-KONG  TO   SHANGHAI'.  293 

should  keep  close  in  to  the  land,  and  the  nearer  the  shore 
the  stronger  the  favorable  current,  there  being  no  hidden 
dangers.  In  passing  round  in  the  night,  however,  and 
when  there  is  no  moon,  it  will  be  advisable  to  pass  to  the 
southward  of  the  Vele-Rete  rocks,  and  to  tack  to  the  NW. 
when  nearly  in  the  longitude  of  Gadd  reef,  or  sooner  if  it  is 
daylight,  as  the  South  cape  of  Formosa  is  very  low,  and 
rather  unsafe  to  approach  in  a  dark  night.  When  a  gale 
comes  on,  and  a  vessel,  being  to  the  westward  of  the  cape 
and  near  it,  is  obliged  to  heave  to,  a  strict  lookout  should 
be  kept  during  the  night,  as  several  vessels,  under  these 
circumstances,  have  found  themselves  to  the  eastward  of 
the  cape  in  the  morning,  having  been  drifted  to  windward 
during  the  night,  and  passed,  probably,  within  a  dangerous 
proximity  of  the  Vele-Rete  rocks.  The  current  sets  some- 
times with  incredible  velocity  round  the  cape,  and  then  up 
northward,  along  the  coast,  and  the  stronger  the  northerly 
gale,  the  stronger  the  weather  current,  gradually  diminish- 
ing in  strength  toward  the  north  end  of  Formosa.  After 
rounding  the  cape,  vessels  should  work  short  tacks  along 
the  east  coast  of  Formosa,  keeping  close  inshore  to  get  the 
benefit  of  the  current. 

"  Having  reached  the  northeast  cape  of  Formosa,  and  the 
wind  does  not  veer  to  the  eastward,  which  is  sometimes  the 
case,  vessels  should  keep  between  the  meridians  of  the 
Barren  islands  and  the  islands  off  the  north  end  of  Formosa, 
and  not  stretch  in  for  the  coast  of  China  until  able  to  make 
a  lead  in  for  Video  or  Leuconna." 

The  following  description  of  this  passage  is  from  the  log 
of  the  British  ship  Wanderer,  (Nautical  Magazine:) 

«« We  left  Macao  roads  on  the  28th  December,  1842,  but 
did  not  get  under  way  from  Harlem  till  'the  3d  January, 
the  wind  being  light  and  ahead ;  beat  up,  close  to  the  coast, 
as  far  as  Breaker  point,  against  a  double-reefed  topsail, 
NSTE.  and  ENE.  wind,  and  chop  sea. 

u  Off  the  entrance  to  Formosa  strait  the  northerly  wind 
became  more  settled  ;  sighted  the  South  cape  of  Formosa 
on  the  6th.  On  approaching  the  Bashees  the  wind  came 
out  again  strong  from  ENE.,  with  a  heavy  sea  abreast 
the  northern  part  of  the  group.  The  wind  freshening 
as  we  made  to  the  southward  and  eastward,  went  about,  and 
on  the  9th  were  off  Botel-Tobago ;  on  the  10th,  doubled 


294  FROM  HONG  KONG  TO  SHANGHAE. 

Samasana;  on  the  llth  sighted  Kami,  bearing  E.  ;  and  on 
the  12th  left  the  high  rocky  islands  of  Hoa-pin-su  andTi-ao- 
yu-su  to  the  westward  j  the  wind  was  then  E.,  but  quickly 
shifted  to  S.  and  W.,  and  came  out  violently  from  NNE. 
On  the  13th,  being  in  27°  28'  K  and  120°  26'  E.,  went  about 
to  the  northward  and  westward,  and  crowded  on  all  sail  pos- 
sible to  reach  anchorage  to  leeward  of  the  islands.  On  the 
15th  rounded  the  Kweshan  islands  and  let  go  two  anchors 
off  the  Buffalo's  Kose,  but  the  weather  was  not  good  enough 
for  entering  the  inner  harbor  until  the  19th.  Passage  22 
days. 

"  It  will  thus  be  seen  that  the  wind  was  almost  invariably 
from  the  northward  and  eastward.  It  may  be  stated  as  a 
general  rule  that  if  the  wind  does  get  to  the  southward  of 
E.,  it  invariably  returns,  with  the  sun,  to  the  northward, 
and  then  blows  with  redoubled  fury.  NW.  winds  some- 
times blow  for  several  days  end  on,  on  the  north  coast  of 
Formosa,  and  are  felt  for  some  distance  at  sea. 

"  Easterly  currents  are  strong,  as  far  as  the  strait  of 
Formosa  j  here  they  generally  set  into  the  China  sea,  and 
to  the  southward.  We  found  little  current  to  leeward  of 
the  Pescadores.  The  current  divides  near  Botel-Tobago, 
one  of  its  branches  setting  strongly  athwart  the  Bashees, 
while  the  other  runs  north  along  the  coast  of  Formosa. 

"  In  the  open  sea  north  of  this  island  the  movement  of 
the  waters  is  irregular  and  governed  by  the  prevailing 
winds,  setting  rapidly  to  the  southward  during  the  north- 
erly gales  frequent  in  this  locality. 

General  re-  "  This  is  a  dangerous  voyage  during  the  strength  of  the 
NE.  monsoon,  and  ships  generally  experience  a  double- 
reefed  topsail  breeze  and  nasty  sea  until  they  pass  the 
Bashees,  when  the  weather  becomes  considerably  better. 

"  After  leaving  the  Lemas  the  best  plan  is  to  keep  well 
in  with  the  land  and  make  to  the  eastward  as  much  as  pos- 
sible. As  the  current  is  contrary  it  is  well  to  beat  up  in 
the  smooth  waters  of  the  bays  during  the  day,  and  in 
case  of  heavy  winds  to  anchor  until  the  weather  moderates. 
Do  not  be  afraid  to  work  to  the  eastward  whenever  the 
wind  permits,  and  run  in  for  the  land  when  the  wind  comes 
out  ahead.  This  is  the  worst  part  of  the  voyage,  and 
requires  much  attention. 


FROM  HONG-KONG  TO   SHANGHAE.  295 

"  Once  clear  of  the  South  cape  of  Formosa,  vessels  can 
run  either  east  or  west  of  the  Ty-pan-san  group,  (Meiaco 
Sima  islands,)  but  vessels  keeping  close  to  the  coast  will 
find  a  northerly  current  as  far  as  cape  Formosa.  When  the 
wind  varies  from  N.  to  E.  off  shore,  it  sometimes  blows 
strong  from  NW.  inshore,  and  it  is  then  advisable  to  take 
that  tack  which  will  keep  the  ship  out  of  the  influence  of 
the  land-breeze,  and  to  stand  on  until  a  good  anchorage 
can  be  fetched  to  leeward  of  one  of  the  Kweshan  islands. 

u  With  northerly  winds  the  barometer  is  always  very 
high,  and  is  therefore  of  much  use  in  this  locality.  After 
reaching  the  south  point,  the  wind  often  jumps  around 
suddenly  to  N.  Look  out  for  this  shift  of  wind,  and  reduce 
sail  in  time.  The  squalls  never  last  long." 

Captain  D.  W.  Stephens  gives  the  following  route  as  the 
best  in  his  opinion  for  reaching  the  south  point  of  Formosa 
in  March  and  April,  (Ann.  Hydr.,  1870:) 

"One  of  the  usual  routes  at  this  season  runs  through 
Bashee  channel,  or  through  one  of  the  passes  between  For- 
mosa and  Luzon,  but  vessels  sometimes  by  so  doing  are 
delayed  a  week,  beating  along  the  coast  for  Breaker  point 
against  the  NE.  monsoon  and  a  westerly  current.  A  better 
route  from  Lema  channel  is  to  run  SE.,  with  everything 
full.  The  westerly  current  will  thus  be  avoided,  and  east- 
erly or  southeasterly  winds  found  near  the  coast  of  Luzon. 
A  ship  by  following  this  track  can  then  head  NNB.,  and, 
the  strong  current  helping  her,  will  probably  fetch  to  east- 
ward of  Formosa  in.  less  time  than  if  the  attempt  had  been 
made  to  beat  up  for  Breaker  point  along  the  China  coast." 

If  reference  be  had  to  §  156,  it  will  be  seen  that  Formosa  02d-  Daring  the 

SW.  nionsooo. 

channel  is  rarely  visited  by  very  violent  typhoons.  The 
following  quotation  also  gives  additional  testimony  on  this 
subject : 

Observations  of  Captain  Potter. — u  Regarding  the  passage 
to  Shanghae  in  a  fair  monsoon,  little  can  be  said  excepting 
that  coasting  vessels,  when  without  observations,  are  in  the 
habit  of  sighting  the  laud  to  verify  their  reckoning. 

"  From  the  mouth  of  July  to  the  latter  part  of  Septein-    Typll3cng. 
ber,  and  sometimes  October,  is  considered  the  typhoon  sea- 
son, and  at  this  season  a  barometer  cannot  be  watched  too 
closely.    Typhoons  have  happened  in  May  and  June,  but 
very  seldom.    These  storms  appear  to  originate  to  the  east- 


296  FROM  HONG-KONG  TO   JAPAN. 

ward  in  the  Pacific  ocean,  and  passing  the  Bashee  islands, 
traveling  to  the  southward  of  west,  their  centers  pass  nearly 
over  the  parallels  of  Hong-Kong  and  Macao.  A  falling 
barometer,  with  a  northerly  wind,  is  almost  a  sure  symptom 
of  the  approach  of  a  cyclone  in  this  vicinity.  These  storms, 
coming  from  the  eastward,  are  sometimes  probably  turned 
off  from  their  usual  course  by  the  highland  of  Formosa  in- 
tervening between  them  and  the  China  coast,  and  at  such 
times  they  travel  up  north,  curving  again  to  the  westward. 
This  inference  somewhat  accounts  for  the  fact  that  Amoy 
is  seldom  visited  by  typhoons,  and  they  are  never  felt  there 
with  such  a  degree  of  severity  as  at  the  other  ports  to  the 
northward  and  southward  of  Formosa.  These  storms  are 
also  generally  preceded  by  a  heavy  swell  from  NE.  to  E." 

Passage  of  the  sailing-vessel  Duperre,  Captain  Bourgois, 
from  Hong-Kong  to  the  mouth  the  Yang-tse-kiang,  (Ann.  Hydr., 
vol.  23.) — "  Sailed  from  Hong-Kong  on  the  18th  June;  dur- 
ing the  first  few  days  fresh  breeze  from  W.  and  SW.,  with 
heavy  rain ;  afterward  light  wind  from  E. ;  squally.  Ean 
through  Tartani  channel  and  cleared  it  during  the  night. 
We  then  tacked  up  along  the  China  coast  for  Formosa 
channel.  On  the  19th  and  20th,  gentle  breeze  from  E.  to 
S.;  on  the  21st  and  22d  wind  SW.  and  W.,  shifting  to  S. 
and  E.  on  the  24th.  On  the  24th  the  wind  hauled  com- 
pletely around  the  compass,  from  SE.  to  SW.,  NE.,  and 
again  to  SE.,  with  lightning  to  NN W.  On  the  25th,  wind 
ESE.,  very  foggy  weather.  While  steering  for  the  Broth- 
ers, sighted,  during  a  flash  of  lightning,  Video  island, 
toward  which  the  vessel  had  been  drifted  20  miles  during  the 
previous  24  hours ;  current  WNW.  Prior  to  this  current, 
the  flow  had  been  to  NE.  with  the  same  velocity.  On  the 
26th,  the  wind  was  from  S.,  the  weather  overcast  and  very 
rainy.  Sighted  the  Saddle  islands  and  rounded  them  at  a 
distance  of  several  miles.  During  the  evening  a  calm  com- 
pelled us  to  anchor  NW.  of  these  islands ;  position,  30°  547 
F.  and  128°  26'  E.;  bottom,  muddy;  depth,  8  fathoms." 

1st.  During  the      s  IgQ.   ROUTE    FROM    HONG-KONG    TO    JAPAN. — Vessels 
SW.  monsoon. 

should  take  Formosa  channel,  and  first  run  as  if  bound  to 
Shanghae,  (vide  §§  156  and  159.) 

Sailing-ships  should  go  through  Van  Diemen  strait,  or 
the  two  passages  more  to  the  southward;  and  thence  can 
easily  reach  Yokohama.  Steamers  and  auxiliary  steam- 


FROM  MANILA  TO  HONG  KONG.  LM»7 

ships  can  follow  tbe  same  route,  but  it  is  probable  that  they 
would  do  better  if  they  took  the  inner  route,  as  described 
in  the  extract  given  in  §  loft. 

Whether  bound  to  Nagasaki  or  Yokohama,  vessels  should, 
on  starting,  follow  the  instructions  given  in  §  150,  for  reach- 
ing the  S.  point  of  Formosa,  and  for  ascending  the  E.  coast 
of  this  island.  Thence  they  should  keep  to  westward  of  the 
Meiaco-Sima  and  Loo-Choo  chain,  and  thus  take  advantage 
of  the  Kuro-Siwo  or  black  current,  The  NE.  winds  are  not 
here  so  persistent  or  strong  as  they  are  to  eastward  of  the 
islands,  and  there  is  a  chance  of  finding  variable  winds.  If 
the  wind  allow,  stand  well  to  the  northward  and  eastward, 
and  pass  north  of  Ou-Sima  island;  but  if  headed  off,  take 
the  port  tack  and  run  west  of  the  Linschoten  group.  As 
soon  as  the  ship  strikes  favorable  winds,  which  she  will 
generally  do  about  30°  N.,  head  her  to  the  eastward,  and 
take  one  of  the  passages  N.  of  the  Linschoten  group,  or 
strictly  Van  Biemen  strait.  The  run  from  here  to  Yoko- 
hama is  easily  accomplished. 

Passage  of  the  screw  corvette  Dupleix,  Captain  Bergasse-du- 
Petits  Thoiiars. — " After  leaving  Hong-Kong  on  the  20th 
January,  and  running  out  of  the  China  sea  by  the  S.  point  of 
Formosa,  I  had  the  choice  of  standing  well  to  the  east  and 
outside  of  the  Loo-Choo  islands,  or  of  keeping  in  the  Japan 
current  and  inside  of  the  Loo-Choos,  etc.  I  took  the  latter 
route,  as  I  wished  to  take  some  observations  of  the  current, 
and  also  expected  to  find  a  smoother  sea.  I  ran  from  the 
S.  point  of  Formosa  to  Van  Diemen  strait  in  9  days,  with  a 
favorable  current  all  the  way,  and  my  observations  proved 
that  the  waters  of  the  black  current  after  running  along  the 
E.  coast  of  Formosa,  flow  directly  toward  the  S.  point  of 
Japan,  without  entering  the  channel  between  Meiaco-Sima 
and  the  Hoa-pin-su  islands.  I  found  a  thick  fog  near  Van 
Diemen  strait,  and  was  compelled  to  retrace  my  steps  a 
little,  in  order  to  pass  through  the  passage  between  Alcmene 
and  Pacific  islands,  which  I  could  have  easily  taken  the 
night  before.  Once  outside  of  the  Liuschoten  archipelago 
I  found  stiff  NW.  winds.  Anchored  at  Yokohama  on  the 
10th  February  after  a  passage  of  21  days  from  Hong-Kong." 

§  161.  ROUTE  FROM  MANILA  TO  HONG-KONG.— This  is*"* 

SW.  monsoon. 

an  easy  passage  at  this  season.  After  crossing  the  China 
sea,  head  directly  for  the  Great  Ladrone.  If  the  wind  is 


208  FROM  SHANGHAE   TO   JAPAN. 

free  and  from  SW.,  Horsburgh  advises  ships  to  make  this 
island,  bearing  N.  by  E.,  or  N.  when  approaching  it  from 
the  China  coast.  If  the  wind  incline  toward  NE.,  it  is  best 
to  sight  Great-Lema  and  enter  the  neighboring  channel. 
Keinember  that  typhoons  are  frequent  from  July  to  Novem- 
ber, (vide  §  20.) 

nPonsonontheNE>  -Kun  UP  tne  W<  coast  of  Luzon  to  caP^  Bolinao ;  a  good 
vessel  can  cross  the  China  sea  from  this  point  if  the  wind 
draw  aft  enough  to  let  her  head  N.  But  when  the  wind  is 
from  NE.  or  N.,  and  the  current  sets  to  SW.,  it  is  prefera- 
ble, especially  with  an  ordinary  sailer,  to  beat  up  the  coast 
of  Luzon  as  far  as  cape  Bojador,  and  then  cross  the  China 
sea.  For  information  concerning  the  latter  part  of  the  voy- 
age, vide  §  154,  under  the  head  of  the  route  by  Palawan 
passage. 

1st.  During  the       §  1(52<   R°UTE   FROM   MANILA  TO  SHANGHAE  AND  YOKO- 

sw.  monsoon.     HAMA.— This  route  does  not  present  any  difficulties.    Ves- 
sels should  steer  straight  for  Formosa  channel;  and  thus 
avoid  the  typhoons  frequent  among  the  Bashee  and  Meiaco- 
Sima  islands.    For  further  information,  vide  §  159  or  160. 
2d.  During  the     At  this  season  keep  along  the  coast  of  Luzon  until  near 

&&.  monsoon.  ' 

cape  Bojador.  On  leaving  this  cape— or  even  point  Ban- 
qui,  with  a  settled  NE.  wind — make  a  long  stretch,  on  the 
starboard  tack,  to  NNW.  However,  as  it  is  not  well  to  get 
too  far  from  the  Bashees  and  the  Babuyanes,  the  ship 
should,  now  and  then,  go  about,  and  stand  toward  them  on 
the  port  tack,  heading  about  ESE.  The  S.  point  of  For- 
mosa should  then  be  reached  as  soon  as  possible.  Auxil- 
iary steamers  can,  of  course,  keep  their  engines  turning 
over  slowly,  and,  lying  a  little  nearer  the  wind  when  on  the 
starboard  tack,  reach  Formosa  in  less  time  than  sailing-ves- 
sels. Pass  east  of  this  island,  and  stand  to  the  northward 
with  the  current  in  your  favor.  For  information  concerning 
the  latter  part  of  the  voyage  vide  §  159  or  160. 

§  163.  ROUTE  FROM  SHANGHAE  TO  JAPAN.— As  this  route 
lies  north  of  30°  N.,  the  variable  winds  beyond  that  parallel 
will  materially  assist  vessels  on  the  voyage  to  Japan. 
When  bound  to  Nagasaki  they  can  steer  a  direct  course. 
Sailing-vessels  bound  to  Yokohama  should,  as  a  general 
thing,  take  Van  Diemen  strait,  or  one  of  the  more  southern 
passages,  if  forced  by  the  wind.  Steamers,  and  auxiliary 
*  steamers,  bound  to  Yokohama,  should  generally  pass  through 


FROM  SII ANGHAE  *TO  JAPAN.  209 

the  Inland  sea,  especially  during  the  summer,  (vide  extract 
in  §  156.) 

Ships  bound  to  Hakodadi  will  find  useful  information  in 
the  following  report  by  Captain  Scott,  (Merc.  Mar.  Maga- 
zine, 1863 :) 

"  After  leaving  the  light-ship  off  the  mouth  of  the  Yang- 
tse-Kiang,  I  usually  ran  close  to  the  Amherst  rocks,  wheu 
the  wind  was  favorable ;  passing  them  on  either  side,  ac- 
cording to  circumstances.  I  then  headed  for  Fsti-Sima  in  the 
strait  of  Korea,  and  left  it  to  port.  Thence  I  sailed  through 
the  mid  channel,  between  Hornet  and  Oki,  where  the  current 
is  strongest.  Sometimes,  when  the  wind  was  strong  from 
the  eastward,  I  had  to  keep  north  of  this  route,  and  run 
between  Quelpart  island  and  the  Korean  coast.  I  found 
this  a  safe  passage,  the  current  being  rapid  and  favorable. 
After  passing  Hornet  rocks  it  is  best  to  stand  for  the  coast 
of  Nippon,  and  cape  Yokoiso ;  behind  which  there  is  a  very 
high  mountain,  visible  60  miles  in  clear  weather.  In  order 
to  counterbalance  the  effect  of  the  current,  head  about  half 
a  point  to  eastward  of  the  direct  course,  until  beyond  39° 
30'  N.  As  the  current  here  commences  to  run  to  NNW., 
and  beyond  that  parallel  often  attains  a  speed  of  from  40  to 
50  miles  per  day,  (when  the  wind  is  strong  from  S.,)  a  whole 
point  should  be  allowed  for  drift. 

"  Due  allowance  should  especially  be  made  for  the  cur- 
rent when  the  weather  is  overcast  or  foggy,  and  no  observa- 
tions have  been  obtained. 

"  Notwithstanding  the  fact  that  we  always  allowed  for 
drift,  we  invariably  found  that  it  set  us  well  over  toward 
Ou-Sima  and  Ko-Sima  islands,  when  we  were  standing 
for  the  western  coast  of  Japan.  These  islands  form  an 
excellent  landmark  to  the  entrance  of  the  Tsugar  strait. 
They  can  be  seen  for  25  or  30  miles  on  a  clear  day,  and  a 
ship  can  pass  on  either  side  of  them,  or  between  them,  the 
shore  being  bold  and  clean.  It  is,  however,  always  prefer- 
able to  leave  them  to  port ;  that  is,  to  northward,  as  they 
bear  due  E.  from  Matsumai  point,  which  forms  the  NW. 
limit  of  the  strait. 

"  We  do  not  think  it  advisable  for  navigators  unac- 
quainted with  this  locality  to  run  through  Tsugar  strait  at 
night,  as  the  breeze  often  dies  away  about  sunset.  Mis- 
takes may  be  made  about  the  different  points,  and  the  ship 


300  FROM  SHANGHAE   TO  JAPAN. 

be  drifted  into  the  Pacific;  in  which  case  it  may  take  her  a 
week  to  make  up  for  lost  time. 

"  On  approaching  the  land  during  the  day  it  is  best  to 
keep  close  to  cape  Tsiuka,  situated  about  18  miles  north  of 
Hakodadi,  on  the  north  coast  of  the  strait.  Thence  keep 
along  the  north  coast  for  Mussel  point,  thus  taking  advan- 
tage of  the  favorable  eddies  in  the  current,  if  the  wind  die 
away." 


CHAPTER    IX. 

ROUTES  TO   THE   SOUTHWARD   IN  THE  CHINA  SEA. 

§  164.  EOUTE  FROM  JAPAN  TO  SHANGHAE. — Sailing-ves- 
sels, leaving  Yokohama  during  the  winter,  (from  October  to 
March,)  should  stand  out  to  sea,  and  make  to  the  south- 
ward. They  will  generally  find  the  NE.  monsoon  south  of 
30°  N.,  at  this  season.  Thence  they  should  head  for  Ou- 
Sima ;  and  passing  to  northward  of  this  island,  make  due 
allowance  for  the  current,  which  sets  to  N.  and  NE.  In 
summer  it  is  possible  to  keep  near  the  land,  and  in  the 
strength  of  the  Kuro-Siwo  current.  Sailing-vessels  should 
afterward  run  through  Van  Diemen  strait,  unless  they  wish 
to  take  the  route  through  the  Inland  sea. 

Auxiliary  steamers  will  find  it  greatly  to  their  advantage 
to  take  the  route  through  the  Inland  sea,  especially  during 
the  summer.  From  May  to  October  it  is  never  safe  to 
approach  Ou-Sima  island,  as  typhoons  are  frequent  in  that 
locality. 

The  following  observations,  on  the  voyage  from  Hako- 
dadi  to  Shanghae,  by  Captain  Scott,  may  be  of  interest : 

u  The  westerly  winds  render  it  sometimes  difficult  to  cross 
Tsugar  strait ;  however,  I  incline  to  the  opinion  that  this 
route  is  better  than  the  one  to  eastward  of  the  Japan  is- 
lands, as  it  is  about  300  miles  shorter  5  and  the  weather,  in 
Van  Diemen  strait,  is  worse,  and  the  contrary  currents 
much  stronger,  than  they  are  in  Tsugar  strait.  It  is  a  known 
fact  that  vessels  taking  the  easterly  route  make  long  pas- 
sages. 

"  When  I  run  out  of  Hakodadi,  with  the  wind  between 
W.  and  SW.,  I  always  stand  for  Mussel  point,  which  is  sit- 
uated on  the  opposite  side  of  the  bay.  After  rounding  this 
point  as  close  as  possible  without  danger,  I  beat  up  along 
the  coast  of  the  bay,  making  short  tacks,  and  thus  keeping 
within  the  counter-current.  In  this  manner  I  generally 
reach  cape  Tsiuka  before  dark,  where  there  is  an  excellent 


302  FROM  JAPAN   TO   SHANGHAE. 

anchorage  in  from  6  to  12  fathoms  off  the  little  village. 
Cape  Tsiuka  bears  S.  from  this  anchorage,  distant  a  little 
less  than  a  mile.  I  think  this  the  safest  spot  in  the  bay,  as 
a  ship  can  always  get  under  way  without  difficulty,  if  the 
wind  should  suddenly  shift  to  E. ;  and  the  SE.  counter-cur- 
rent is  not  very  strong.  It  is  certainly  a  far  better  anchor- 
age than  the  one  marked  on  the  Admiralty  chart,  as  it  is 
difficult  to  beat  up  from  the  latter,  in  case  the  wind  should 
come  out  from  E.;  the  holding-ground,  also,  is  not  good,  the 
bottom  being  of  hard  sand,  while  the  bottom  off  cape  Tsiuka 
is  a  kind  of  mud,  formed  by  the  debris  from  the  adjacent 
mountains. 

"  If  the  west  wind  hold,  get  under  way  at  daylight,  and 
run  along  the  north  coast  of  the  strait  as  far  as  point  Mat- 
suma'i.  Thence  stand  across  the  strait  on  the  starboard 
tack  for  cape  Greig;  the  wind  will  generally  draw  aft  one 
or  two  points  abreast  the  entrance  of  the  strait.  Between 
cape  Tsiuka  and  point  Matsuma'i  the  coast  is  not  clean,  but 
there  is  no  necessity  of  running  close  to  it,  as  the  current 
moderates  considerably  beyond  cape  Tsiuka.  After  clearing 
the  strait,  and  reaching  37°  1ST.,  it  is  well,  when  the  wind  is  S., 
to  stand  in  for  the  coast  of  Japan,  and  run  inside  of  the  Oki 
islands.  By  so  doing  a  ship  will  be  out  of  the  strength  of 
the  current,  and  may  even  find  a  favorable  drift  as  far  as 
Hirado  channel.  I  have  often  passed  inside  of  the  Miuo- 
sima,  Katsu-siina,  and  Oro-no-sima  islands,  and  found 
the  coast  clear  as  far  as  Oro-no-sima.  ESE.  of  this  island 
lies  a  small  rock,  8  or  9  feet  above  water,  with  a  consid- 
erable outlying  reef.  During  the  night  this  rock  is  easily 
mistaken  for  a  small  vessel  or  a  junk. 

"After  this  it  is  best  to  make  for  Korea  strait ;  but  it  is 
to  be  hoped  that  when  the  survey  of  these  localities  is  com. 
plete,  vessels  will  be  able  to  keep  inside  of  the  Gotto  islands, 
and  thus  avoid  the  strong  currents  of  Korea  strait,  when 
the  wind  is  strong  from  the  west. 

"Once  clear  of  Korea  strait,  it  is  not  usually  difficult  to 
reach  the  China  coast,  as  the  monsoons  generally  blow  from 
N.  or  S.  This  part  of  the  passage  is  ordinarily  made  in  from 
3  to  5  days,  and  sometimes  in  36  hours  when  bound  north. 
During  either  monsoon  it  is  best  to  make  the  land  near 
Shaweishan  island  or  Amherst  rock,  where  there  is  an  an- 
chorage in  6  or  7  fathoms,  if  the  wind  die  away.  Vessels 


FROM  SHANGHAE  TO  HONG  KONG.  .303 

are  also  likely  to  have  one  or  two  tides  in  their  favor  in  this 
locality.  Near  the  Saddles  the  southerly  currents  and  tides 
are  often  strong  during  the  NE.  monsoon. 

"The  passage  from  Shanghae  to  Hakodadi  has  always 
seemed  to  me  shorter  and  easier  than  the  return  voyage; 
the  current  being  more  favorable.  We  made  our  quickest 
passage  to  the  northward  in  May,  and  our  longest  in  Octo- 
ber ;  the  length  of  the  respective  voyages  being  9  and  16 
days.  Our  quickest  passage  to  the  southward  was  made  in 
11  days,  during  November,  while  our  longest  was  29  days, 
in  June.  Passages  have  been  made  in  6  or  7  days." 

§  165.  KOUTE  FROM  SHANGHAE  TO  HONG-KONG.— In 
§  159  we  quoted  Captain  Potter's  instructions  for  the  voy- 
age from  Hong-Kong  to  Shanghae.  We  will  now  reproduce 
his  observations  on  the  return  route,  first  remarking,  how- 
ever, that  vessels  should  always  pass  through  Formosa 
strait : 

"In  the  NE.  monsoon  there  is  a  constant  current  down    During  the  XE. 

monsoon. 

the  coast,  running  with  more  or  less  velocity,  according  to 
the  strength  of  the  wind  ;  and  the  wind  generally  blows 
along  the  line  of  coast,  that  is  ENE.  from  Hong-Kong  to 
Breaker  point,  NE.  in  the  Formosa  channel,  and  NNE.  from 
Formosa  north.  The  first  part  of  the  monsoon  is  very  strong, 
and  frequently  in  the  mouth  of  October  it  is  almost  an  in- 
cessant gale;  in  the  latter  stage,  from  January  to  May,  SE. 
winds  are  not  uncommon,  and  the  more  frequent  as  the  sea- 
son advances ;  there  is  considerable  thick  weather  in  the  lat- 
ter part  of  the  monsoon,  and  a  SE.  wind  to  the  northward 
of  Formosa  almost  invariably  brings  a  dense  fog  with  it. 

u  The  passage  from  Shanghae  to  Hong-Kong  in  the  SW.  Duriugthesw. 
monsoon  is  very  tedious  from  the  frequent  calms  and  squalls 
and  constant  strong  current  up ;  and  coasting- vessels  gen- 
erally use  their  kedge  when  there  is  not  sufficient  wind  to 
make  any  progress.  In  working  down  it  is  well  to  keep  in 
with  the  coast,  stretching  into  bays  and  by  headlands  to 
get  out  of  the  current,  if  there  is  sufficient  wind  to  preclude 
the  probability  of  getting  becalmed. 

§166.   EOUTE  FROM    HONG-KONG   TO    MANILA.—  Accord-  e  lst-  During  the 

SW.  inonsouii. 

ing  to  Horsburgh,  vessels  should  aim  to  leave  Macao  for  Ma- 
nila when  the  wind  hauls  to  SE.  or  E.,  so  as  to  make  to 
SSW.  or  S.  toward  Macclesfield  bank.  This  bank  once 
reached,  it  is  easy  to  fetch  to  windward  of  Manila  unless 


304  FROM   HONG -KONG  TO   SINGAPORE. 

the  wind  comes  out  from  SSE.  and  S.  If  the  wind  is  from 
the  southward,  sight  Goat  island  or  the  land  south  of  the 
bay. 

It  will  be  perceived  that  this  route  is  the  same  as  that 
given  in  §  152  in  the  description  of  the  first  easterly  route. 
We  think  it  is  not  advisable  to  leave  Hong-Kong  from  May 
to  September,  as  it  is  exceedingly  difficult  to  reach  Maccles- 
field  bank  during  these  months.  Of  course  the  difficulty 
will  be  less  with  steam  to  fall  back  upon. 

The  reader  should  remember  that  typhoons  are  frequent 
in  these  parts,  (vide  §  20.) 

ad.  During  the  This  is  the  favorable  season  for  making  this  passage. 
SE.  monsoon.  According  to  Horsburgh  vessels  should  run  out  by  the  Leina 
channel,  and  head  up  well  to  the  east  for  cape  Bolinao, 
if  possible,  as  the  currents  set  to  leeward.  When  nearly  as 
high  as  cape  Bolinao  they  should  keep  some  distance  from 
the  banks  along  the  coast  of  Luzon.  After  doubling  cape 
Bolinao  and  the  Sisters,  (Las  Hermanas,)  keep  along  the 
land  at  a  distance  of  from  12  to  18  miles,  until  past  the 
islands  and  rocks  off  point  Capones,  when  run  in  closer  and 
steer  for  Manila  bay. 

1st.  During  the       §  167«   ROUTE  FROM  HONG-KONG  TO  SAIGON  AND  SlNG- 

:NE.  monsoon.  ^PORE. — From  September  to  the  end  of  February  it  is  best 
to  take  the  inner  route,  along  the  coast  of  Cochin-China, 
(vide  §  151.)  This  route  is  especially  advantageous  for 
deeply  laden  vessels,  as  they  will  have  the  wind  aft  all  the 
way  from  the  Great  Ladrone.  In  March  and  April  the 
outer  route  is  preferable. 

route  Som"seer     CaPtain  Blake,  of  H.  M.  S.  Larue,  adding  to  his  own  ex- 
tember  to  March,  perience  that  of  several  commanders  of  opium  clippers,  gives 
the  following  remarks : 

"  In  running  down  the  China  sea  with  the  NE.  monsoon, 
the  direct  line  mostly  adopted  is  nearly  mid-channel  be- 
tween Hainan  and  the  Paracels,  holding  rather  to  the  latter, 
when  a  southerly  current  of  30  to  50  miles  a  day  is  usual, 
and  between  14°  and  11°  N.  I  have  known  it  to  reach  60 
miles  in  twenty-four  hours.  Thence  making  the  coast  of 
Cochin-China  about  Varela,  and  shaping  a  course  south- 
ward, so  as  to  pass  30  or  40  miles  outside  of  Pulo-Sapata, 
whence  the  course  to  Singapore  is  clear,  giving  the  Anam- 
bas  a  berth  of  about  40  miles,  and  always,  if  possible,  sight- 
ing Pulo-Aor,  to  insure  the  reckoning ;  more  especially 


FROM  HONG-KONG  TO   SAIGON.  305 

should  the  weather  be  thick,  when  the  lead  should  be  con- 
stantly attended  to." 

The  following  instructions  are  condensed  from  Hors- 
burgh's  work : 

"  The  course  from  the  Great  Ladrone  is  SSW.  J  W.,  the 
route  passing  between  the  Taya  islands  and  St.  Espiritu 
shoal,  and  at  a  convenient  distance  from  the  Paracels. 
The  currents  are  very  strong  along  the  China  coast,  and  run 
at  the  rate  of  from  15  to  24  miles  per  day  in  the  offing. 
When  the  wind  is  ENE.,  between  the  Paracels  and  Hainan, 
it  causes  a  current  in  the  opposite  direction.  Between  the 
Great  Ladrone  and  the  coast  of  Cochin-China  the  westerly 
currents  have  a  speed  of  15  miles  per  day  in  moderate 
weather,  and  of  24  miles  with  strong  winds;  vessels  should 
not,  therefore,  steer  too  southerly,  but  keep  between  SSW. 
and  SW.  by  S.  ^  S.  prior  to  reaching  17°  N.  and  the  channel 
to  westward  of  the  banks.  This  course  should  fetch  them 
3°  to  the  westward  of  the  longitude  of  the  Great  Ladrone, 
when  on  the  17th  parallel ;  the  course  thence  to  cape  Varela 
being  S.  \  W.  or  S.  by  W.  If  the  weather  be  overcast  or 
the  wind  be  inclined  to  haul  to  the  eastward,  (as  the  cur- 
rent sets  in  toward  Quin-hon,)  it  is  well  not  to  approach  laud 
before  up  to  cape  Varela.  Beyond  15°  N.  the  littoral  cur- 
rents are  strong  and  southerly,  reaching  a  rate  of  from  40 
to  60  miles  in  24  hours,  from  14°  30'  to  11°  30'  N.  If  land 
was  not  sighted  above  cape  Varela  it  is  advisable  to  run  in 
for  it,  and  keep  12  or  15  miles  from  the  coast. 

"  The  route  to  Saigon  is  near  land  and  to  westward  of  Bound  to  Saigon. 
Holland  bank.  Abreast  the  southern  part  of  false  cape 
Varela  the  course  is  SSW.  or  SW.  by  S.  £  S.,  across  the 
gap  of  Padaran.  The  SSE.  current  should  be  attended  to 
in  this  locality,  and  at  a  moderate  distance  from  shore  the 
lead  will  show  40  or  50  fathoms.  Cape  Padaran  is  easily 
recognized  on  a  SSW.  course,  and  cannot  be  mistaken,  as 
the  low  land  at  the  bottom  of  the  gap  gives  the  cape  an  iso- 
lated appearance.  It  should  be  passed  at  5  or  6  miles  on  a 
SW.  by  W.  course,  which  will  carry  the  ship  about  6  miles 
outside  of  Pulo-Cecir  de  Terre ;  cape  Padarau  can,  however, 
be  approached  much  closer,  and  Pulo-Cecir  de  Terre  still  be 
doubled.  The  island  once  passed  at  a  distance  of  from  4  to 
6  miles,  in  daytime,  steer  SW.  by  W.  until  it  bears  N.  by  E. 
J  E.;  it  will  probably  be  lost  on  this  bearing.  Then,  after 
20  N 


30G  FROM  HONG-KONG  TO   SINGAPORE. 

running  18  or  21  miles  SW.  by  S.,  the  ship  will  be  west  of 
Holland  bank,  and  the  remainder  of  the  passage  is  easy.  As 
at  night  Saigon  light  is  visible  28  miles,  and  during  the  day 
cape  St.  James  is  easily  recognized,  the  only  precaution  is 
to  round  Britto  shoal  to  the  eastward. 

Bound  to  sing-     "After  passing  west  of  Holland  bank,  the  course  is  SW. 
by  S.  for  Pulo-Aor ;  but  it  is  preferable  to  keep  outside  of 
Pulo-Sapata  ;  in  which  case  the  course  from  false  cape  Va- 
,  rela  is  S.  or  S.  £  E.,  and  to  eastward  of  Pulo-Cecir  de  Mer 

and  Pulo-Sapata.  In  overcast  weather  it  is  best  to  be  on 
the  safe  side  and  steer  SSB.,  as  the  currents  set  rapidly  to 
SW.  and  WSW.  toward  Pulo-Sapata,  and  a  ship  may  be 
forced  to  pass  the  night  between  the  island  and  Catwick. 

"  In  very  clear  weather  vessels  may  pass  close  to  eastward 
of  Pulo-Cecir  de  Mer,  and  run  west  of  Great  Catwick  on  a 
SW.  course;  whence  the  course  is  straight  for  Pulo-Aor. 
When  east  of  Pulo-Timoan  in  thick  weather,  keep  in  32  or 
33  fathoms. 

" After  passing  from  6  to  12  miles  from  Pulo-Aor.,  the 
course  for  Banka  strait  is  SE.  by  S.  £  S.  or  SSE.,  depend- 
ing upon  the  strength  of  the  wind  and  current,  being  care- 
ful to  keep  in  at  least  23  or  24  fathoms  when  between  0°40' 
and  0°  56'  N.  After  passing  outside  of  Geldria  bank  a 
SSW,  course  will  carry  the  ship  12  or  15  miles  from  the 
east  point  of  Linga;  this  offing  is  necessary,  as  Ilchester 
bank  bears  south  from  the  point  (distant  8  miles)  and  the 
current  sets  toward  the  shoal. 

u  When  abreast  of  the  east  point  of  Linga,  distant  15 
miles,  set  the  course  at  SW.  by  S.  J  S.,  and  run  between  Pulo- 
Taya  and  the  Seven  islands,  and  then  head  S.  by  W.  for 
point  Batakarang,  passing  it  at  a  distance  of  20  miles,  as 
Frederick-Hendrick  rocks  are  on  the  east  side  of  the  chan- 
nel." 

ro^e  SVaroh  ^his  route  passes  over  Macclesfield  bank  and  east  of 
and  April.  Pulo-Sapata.  Horsburgh  says :  "  Vessels  should  adopt  the 
outer  passage  in  March  and  April.  They  should  run  for 
Macclesfield  bank  on  a  S.  by  E.  £  E.  course,  with  moderate 
winds,  or  on  a  SSE.  course  with  strong  winds  and  a  heavy 
sea  and  current.  From  the  bank  to  Pulo-Sapata  the  course 
is  SW.  But  if  soundings  are  obtained  over  the  bank,  it  is 
best  to  head  SW.  £  S.  until  the  parallel  of  Pulo-Sapata  is 
reached,  and  then  if  the  island  be  not  sighted,  to  steer  SW. 


FROM  HONG-KONG  TO   SINGAPORE.  307 

by  W.  or  WSW.  until  in  35  or  36  fathoms.  This  caution  is 
.necessary,  especially  in  thick  weather  or  at  night ;  in  fact, 
at  such  times  it  is  advisable  to  keep  well  to  the  eastward  of 
Pulo-Sapata  until  near  10°  K,  when  head  SW.  by  W.  or 
WSW.,  and  run  for  soundings.  Some  captains  keep  SW. 
by  S.  from  Macclesfield  bank,  and  in  March,  April,  and 
May  run  a  great  distance  to  the  eastward  of  Pulo-Sapata. 
If  this  route  be  taken,  look  out  for  the  SE.  currents,  which 
are  liable  to  sag  vessels  over  toward  the  shoals  to  eastward 
of  Pulo-Sapata. 

"The  parallel  of  10°  N.  once  reached,  the  course  is  SW. 
by  W.  and  WSW.  until  bottom  is  found  at  35  fathoms,  then 
S.  28°  W.  or  S.  30°  W.  for  Pulo-Aor  or  Pulo-Timoan.  When 
near  7°  G'  N.  do  not  get  in  less  than  30  or  32  fathoms,  and 
look  out  for  Charlotte  bank.  European -bound  vessels 
should,  in  March  and  April,  stand  well  to  the  eastward,  and 
passing  between  the  Natunas  and  Anambas,  run  for  Gaspar 
strait." 

According  to  Horsburgh,  if  a  good  sailer  take  advantage  During  the  sw. 
of  the  series  of  E.  or  SE.  winds  which  often  blow  for  sev- 
eral successive  days  at  this  season,  she  can  make  the  voy- 
age from  the  Great  Ladrone  to  the  Indies  by  the  inner  route. 
In  this  way  the  voyage  from  Hong-Kong  to  Singapore  is 
sometimes  made  in  20  or  30  days ;  but  in  order  to  succeed 
they  must,  from  the  beginning,  take  advantage  of  every 
favorable  circumstance,  and  while  standing  to  the  south- 
ward and  westward  keep  as  close  as  possible  to  Hainan  and 
the  coast  of  Cochiu-China.  However,  the  very  best  sailing- 
vessels  should  not  attempt  this  route  in  June,  July,  and 
August  unless  absolutely  necessary,  but  take  the  easterly 
route. 

Captain  Blake  advises  the  outer  route  at  this  season.  He 
says: 

a  Vessels  going  either  up  or  down  the  China  sea  when 
the  SW.  monsoon  is  blowing  in  full  force,  should  pass  to 
leeward  of  the  Paracels,  the  Pratas,  and  Scarborough  bank, 
as  the  current  is  strong  with  the  wind. 

"  Ships  descending  the  China  sea  against  the  SW.  mon- 
soon, should  stand  to  the  southward  after  they  have  passed 
Macclesfield  bank,  being  careful  to  keep  between  115°  50' 
and  118°  50'  E.  They  should  profit  by  every  shift  of 
wind.7' 


308  FROM  HONG-KONG   TO   SINGAPORE. 

Bound  to  sai-  In  short,  we  think  it  important,  if  not  indispensable,  that 
sailing-vessels  bound  to  Saigon  should  start  before  May 
when  they  can  make  quite  a  rapid  passage  by  the  inner 
route.  But  even  the  outer  route  will  be  difficult  for  a  sail- 
ing-ship in  June,  July,  and  August;  the  head-winds  and 
currents,  the  reefs  to  be  avoided,  and  the  danger  of  meet- 
ing a  typhoon,  all  combining  to  make  the  voyage  long,  and 
even  dangerous.  The  inner  route  is  not  so  bad  for  a  staunch, 
well-fitted  out,  auxiliary  steamer,  and  can  be  followed  with- 
out great  difficulty.  Still,  she  should  not  attempt  to  econo- 
mize coal,  but  get  up  steam  as  soon  as  possible. 

Bound  to  Sing-    Vessels  bound  to  Singapore  should  follow  the  instructions 
apore.  g.Ytjn  iu  ^  ^     Thus,if  they  leave  Hong-Kongfrom  the  15th 

April  to  the  15th  May,  they  should  take  the  first  easterly 
route;  if  they  sail  from  the  15th  May 'to  the  end  of  June, 
they  should  take  the  second  easterly  route.  They  should 
avoid  starting  in  August,  and  if  they  leave  in  September, 
should  take  the  inner  route  described  at  the  beginning  of 
the  present  paragraph. 

First  easterly  After  leaving  Hong  Kong  from  the  15th  April  to  the  15th 
sa^Ytraft  OTaMo^av>  vessels  should  run  through  Mindoro  and  Basilan 
lucca  passage,  straits,  as  described  in  §  152.  The  winds  and  currents  from 
Basilan  to  cape  Donda  are  very  variable.  If  the  wind  be 
found  steady  from  E.,  the  aim  should  be  to  sight  cape 
Donda  to  SSB.  or  S.  Ordinarily,  the  winds  haul  to  the 
westward  on  approaching  Celebes;  these,  of  course,  making 
an  ettsterly  drift,  it  is  prudent  to  keep  well  to  the  westward 
and  sight  Tanjong  Kaniongan.  A  ship  fetching  to  the  east- 
ward of  cape  Donda  will  find  it  slow  work  beating  up  for 
the  strait. 

Keep  along  the  coast  of  Celebes  while  in  Macassar  strait, 
and  thus  find  the  vessel  well  to  windward  oh  striking  the 
SE.  monsoon.  The  only  place  where  it  is  important  to  keep 
an  especial  lookout  is  near  the  latitude  of  Laurel  bank  and 
the  dangers  situated  N.  of  the  Noesa-Seras  islands.  For 
information  concerning  the  remainder  of  the  voyage  the 
reader  should  refer  to  §  154,  where  will  be  found  instructions 
relative  to  this  route  under  the  head  of  "  the  route  from 
Singapore  to  Macassar  strait  during  the  NE.  monsoon." 

If  the  wind  is  foul  for  Macassar  strait,  head  for  Molucca 
passage,  as  stated  in.§  152,  and  pass  successively  between 
Bauka  and  Bojaren,  (NE.  point  of  Celebes,)  then  between 


FROM  MANILA  TO   SAIGON.  309 

Lisa-raatula  and  Obi-Major,  or  through  Greyhound  strait, 
situated  west  of  Xulla  Taliabo.  As  the  wind  prevails  from 
SE.  and  E.  beyond  Obi-Major,  a  ship  will  be  in  a  particu- 
larly good  position  for  making  from  that  point  to  the  NW. 
part  of  Buru,  and  for  finishing  the  voyage,  as  indicated  at 
the  end  of  the  second  easterly  route. 

Starting  from  Hong-Kong,  from  the  beginning  of  May 
the  end  of  June,  a  vessel  should  shape  her  course  as  stated  Dampi 
in  §  152,  for  entering  the  Pacific  by  one  of  the* passages 
north  of  Luzon.  After  running  down  the  E.  coast  of  the 
Philippines  as  far  as  Gilolo  or  Dam  pier  strait,  head  for 
the  NW.  part  of  Buru.  Observations  on  this  part  of  the 
route  will  also  be  found  in  §  152.  After  reaching  the  NW. 
extremity  of  Buru  head  about  SW.,  and  if  the  wind  be 
fresh  from  the  SE.,  allow  half  a  point  for  northerly  drift. 
Navigators  should,  if  possible,  manage  to  make  the  most 
Dorthern  of  the  Token-Bessi  islands  during  the  day,  and 
double  it  a  distance  of  2  or  3  miles.  Thence  they  can 
easily  weather  the  south  point  of  Butou,  and  head  W.  £  N. 
for  Middle  island  in  Salayer  strait,  being  careful  to  avoid 
Cambyna  island  if  in  that  locality  at  night.  It  is  not  ad- 
visable to  run  between  Middle  and  South  islands  after  dark, 
unless  at  home  in  the  neighborhood,  as  these  islands  are 
easily  mistaken  for  each  other.  After  leaving  Salayer  strait 
make  to  the  westward,  running  on  either  side  of  Brill 
(Taka-Eamata)  shoal,  as  most  convenient.  Pass  close  by 
Great  Solombo  j  keep  clear  of  the  reefs  off  Pulo-Maukap, 
and  make  for  Carimata  passage.  Thence  shape  the  course 
for  the  northern  extremity  of  Banka  and  run  through 
Singapore  strait.  Vessels  should  reach  this  strait  by  giv- 
ing a  good  berth  to  Geldria  bank,  and  then  running  for  Pulo- 
Panjang,  afterward  sailing  close  around  the  north  coast  of 
Bintang  and  passing  between  that  island  and  Pedra-Branca. 

§  168.  EOUTE  FROM  MANILA  TO  SAIGON.— Once  in  the  Durin  th63rB 
offing,  stand  across  the  China  sea,  making  due  allowance™0"8001", 
for  the  SW.  current,  so  as  to  pass  well  to  windward  of  all 
the  reefs,  particularly  Trident,  Alexander,  and  Minerva. 
Make  the  coast  of  Cochin-China  near  cape  Padaran,  and 
finish  the  voyage  by  following  the  inner  route  given  at  the 
beginning  of  §  167. 

The  passage  will  be  rough,  long,  and  very  difficult  at  this 
season.     Sailing-vessels  should  avoid  it  during  June,  July, 


310 


FROM  MANILA  TO   SINGAPORE. 


and  August.    There  are,  however,  three  routes  from  which 
to  choose. 

First  route.  In  March,  April,  and  the  beginning  of  May,  it  is  possible 
to  cross  the  China  sea,  after  leaving  Manila  bay,  by  keep- 
ing north  of  Macclesfield  bank  and  the  Paracels.  After 
running  close  to  the  coast  of  Hainan  the  aim  should  be  to 
follow  the  inner  route  described  in  §  167.  Good  vessels  can 
do  this  even  in  June  and  July,  but  should  not  attempt  it, 
unless  absolutely  necessary,  after  the  SW.  monsoon  has 
reached  its  maximum  strength,  as  typhoons  are  then  com- 
mon. 

second  route.  This  route  runs  through  Mindoro  strait ;  E.  of  Palawan  ; 
across  Balabac  strait,  and  thence  along  the  W.  coast  of 
Borneo,  until  far  enough  south  to  cross  the  China  sea.  As 
the  currents  are  strong  to  ET.  and  NE.,  it  is  necessary  to 
keep  well  to  windward  of  all  reefs,  especially  Luconia  and 
Vanguard. 

Vessels  can  also  follow  an  analogous  route  through  Pala- 
wan passage,  but  only  in  April,  or  at  the  beginning  of  May. 
Both  these  routes  will,  of  course,  be  greatly  facilitated  by  the 
assistance  of  steam. 

Third  route.  This  route  passes  through  Macassar  strait,  and,  though 
longer  than  the  others,  will  be  found  easier  for  average 
sailing-vessels,  (vide  §  167,  1st  easterly  route.)  By  taking 
this  passage  they  will  avoid  the  chance  of  meeting  a 
typhoon,  and  will  always  find  favorable  winds  beyond 
Great-Pulo-Laut,  from  SE.  to  southward  of  the  line,  and 
from  SW.  to  northward. 

During  the  NE.       §  169.   EOUTE  FROM  MANILA  TO  SINGAPORE,  THE  STRAIT 

monsoon. 

OF  SUNDA,  AND  EUROPE. — Horsbtirgh  advises  vessels  to 
steer  W.  by  S.  from  Manila  bay  to  the  parallel  of  12°  N.? 
and  recommends  them  to  keep  on  this  course  if  they  are 
not  certain  of  being  at  least  9°  west  of  Goat  island.  They 
should  afterward  head  SW.  for  Pulo  Sapata,  thus  allowing 
for  drift,  as  the  westerly  currents  are  at  times  very  violent, 
and  the  dead-reckoning  is  not  to  be  relied  upon.  If  the 
island  is  not  sighted  after  the  parallel  of  Pulo-Sapata  is 
reached,  the  course  should  be  SW.  by  W.,  until  soundings 
are  found;  thence  SSW;  J  W.  for  Pulo-Aor,  as  stated  in 
§  167,  outer  route.  For  information  concerning  the  end  of 
the  route,  vide  §  151. 
nSnr8ononthe  SW'  We  think  that  the  1st  easterly  route,  described  in  §  167, 


FROM  SAIGON   TO   SINGAPORE.  311 

can  be  followed  during  the  wbole  period  of  this  mon- 
soon. Vessels  should  run  through  Mindoro  and  Basilan 
straits,  and  then  make  for  Macassar  strait,  when  the  winds 
will  allow,  that  is  to  say,  in  April  and  May;  otherwise, 
Molucca  passage  may  be  taken.  In  this  case  they  should 
double  Burn  to  N W.  ;  Buton  to  SE.  and  S.,  and  then  take 
Salayer  strait  and  Carimata  passage. 

It  does  not  seem  that  there  is  any  especial  advantage  in 
taking  the  Pacific  or  2d  easterly  route.  It  can,  however,  be 
followed ;  in  which  case  the  track  is  through  San  Bernardino 
strait,  and  reaches  Pitt  passage,  by  Gilolo  or  Dampier 
strait,  as  described  in  the  description  of  the  2d  easterly 
route,  §  152.  Finish  the  voj'age  as  indicated  at  the  close 
of  §  167.  European-bound  vessels  should  follow  the  same 
route  and  end  the  voyage  as  stated  in  §  152. 

During  the  months  of  March,  April,  and  May,  vessels 
can  still  take  the  Palawan  route ;  and,  in  relation  to  this 
subject,  we  give  the  instructions  of  Captain  Stephens,  com- 
manding the  Harkaway,  (Ann.  Hydr.,  1870 :) 

"Vessels  leaving  the  coast  of  China,  or  Manila,  and 
bound  to  the  strait  of  Sunda,  during  March,  April,  and  the 
beginning  of  May,  should  expect  to  make  a  long  passage  if 
they  follow  the  old  route,  which  passes  near  Pulo-Sapata. 
If,  on  the  other  hand,  they  keep  along  the  coast  of  Luzon, 
cross  Palawan  passage,  run  along  the  Borneo  coast,  pass 
near  Direction  island,  double  Soruetou,  take  Carimata 
strait,  running  close  around  the  North  Watcher,  and  thence 
steer  for  Saint  Nicholas  point  on  the  island  of  Java;  they  will 
probably  meet  E.  winds,  fine  weather,  and  a  smooth  sea  all 
the  way.  This  is  a  direct  route,  and  clear  of  calms.  Prior 
to  the  end  of  May  the  currents  are  more  favorable  than  by 
the  other  route. 

"  On  nearing  the  strait  of  Sunda,  vessels  should  stand 
over  for  the  coast  of  Java,  and  in  May  keep  close  to  the 
land,  as  the  wind  is  then  light;  from  SE.  during  the  night, 
and  from  NE.  during  the  day.  By  following  these  direc- 
tions they  will  avoid  all  danger  of  being  set  toward  Button 
islet  by  the  westerly  current.  The  current  always  sets  to 
SW.  in  the  middle  of  the  strait;  its  force  is  diminished 
during  the  short  flood  tide,  but  increased  during  the  long 
ebb." 

§  170.  EOUTE  FROM  SAIGON  TO  SINGAPORE.— The  follow- 


312  FKOM  SAIGbN  TO   SINGAPORE. 

ing  instructions  are  due  to  Captain  Loftus,  of  the  ship  Ken- 
sington, (Ann.Hydr.,  vol.  23 :) 

ist.  Daring  the  "After  leaving  cape  St.  James  pass  east  of  the  coral 
shoals  and  Pulo-Oondore ;  thence  head  for  Pulo-Aor,  allow- 
ing for  the  currents  which  set  toward  the  gulf  of  Siain.  Ap- 
proaching Polo-Timou  during  the  night,  or  in  bad  weather, 
it  is  necessary  to  look  out  for  the  SW.  current,  which  tends 
to  set  vessels  into  the  bay  on  the  coast  of  Malay,  to  west- 
ward of  Pulo-Timoan.  When  the  weather  is  overcast  and 
the  wind  strong  it  is  best  to  bear  up  and  double  Pulo-Aor 
to  leeward,  so  as  to  wait  for  a  favorable  opportunity  for 
running  through  the  straits.  The  current  sets  to  SSE.,  be- 
tween Pulo-Aor  and  the  eastern  point  of  Bintang;  it  is  also 
well  to  steer  S.  28°  W.  from  Pulo-Aor  to  the  Malay  coast ; 
and  then  to  keep  along  the  land  at  a  convenient  distance. 
Vessels  should  pass  through  the  north  channel,  doubling 
the  Romania  islands  at  a  distance  of  3  miles.  They  will 
then  be  on  the  windward  side  of  the  straits,  and  can  anchor 
under  the  tee  of  Water  island  if  the  weather  be  bad.  Ves- 
sels keeping  too  far  to  the  southward,  after  leaving  Pulo- 
Aor,  are  often  drifted  to  leeward  of  Bintang  by  the  current 
and  ebb  tide,  which  runs  out  of  the  straits.  If  this  happens 
they  are  obliged  to  take  Rhio  strait.  In  March  the  east  winds 
are  fresh,  the  current  slow,  and  the  weather  fine.  In  April 
the  east  winds  are  interrupted  by  calms  and  squalls.  The 
monsoon  dies  away  between  the  end  of  April  and  the  15th 
May.  In  May  the  winds  and  weather  are  variable,  with 
thunder-storms  and  squalls.  Toward  the  end  of  this  month 
the  northerly  current  commences  to  flow. 

ad.  During  the     "At  this  season  a  fair  wind  will  be  carried  from  the  river 

o  w  •  monsoon. 

to  cape  St.  James.  The  wind  along  the  coast  is  frequently 
from  K.  and  NE.  at  night,  and  at  times  from  these  points 
for  a  few  moments  during  the  day.  A  ship  taking  advan- 
tage of  these  local  winds,  while  running  to  the  SW.,  can 
sometimes  carry  them  for  40  or  50  miles  to  the  southward 
and  westward  of  Pulo-Condore.  Quick  passages  have  been 
made  by  keeping  under  the  coast  of  Cambodia,  as  far  as  the 
Brothers  and  Pulo-Obi,  and  thence  by  crossing  the  gulf  of 
Siain  with  a  strong  NW.  wind,  beating  up  the  coast  of 
Malasia  with  the  tide,  and  passing  inside  of  Pulo-Timoan, 
Siribuat,  and  Pulo-Sibu.  Thence  make  for  Singapore  strait , 
taking  advantage  not  only  of  the  tides,  but  of  the  land  and 


FROM  SAIGON   TO    SINGAPORE.  313 

sea  breezes,  which  are  frequent  at  this  season  during  fine 
weather.  This  route  is  used  by  vessels  returning  from 
Siam,  and  sometimes  from  Saigon  ;  but  the  passage  to  east- 
ivard  of  the  Great  Natuna  is  considered  the  best,  especially 
for  large  ships. 

"  Vessels  heading  SE.  on  the  long  starboard  tack  meet 
the  strongest  current  near  Charlotte  bank.  It  afterward 
diminishes  and  becomes  slightly  favorable  SW.  of  Great 
Natuna.  Here  a  SE.  or  E.  wind  is  generally  struck,  and  a 
bad  sailer  can  often  pass  between  Subi  and  Low  islands, 
and  then  lay  a  course  for  Singapore  strait.  Strong  west 
winds  and  rain  are  common  at  the  beginning  of  the  mon- 
soon, though  the  wind  is  sometimes  from  S.  Bad  sailers 
should  therefore  be  very  careful  how  they  approach  the 
coast  of  Borneo  near  cape  Sirik ;  and  make  the  land  between 
Tanjong-Datou  and  Boerong  islands,  by  taking  the  Api 
passage.  This  they  can  easily  do,  as  they  will  find  land  and 
sea  breezes,  and  only  a  slight  current  near  the  shore.  In 
Api  passage,  between  Tanjong-Datou  and  Tanjong-Api,  a 
ship  should  not  go  closer  than  2  or  3  miles  to  the  islands,  nor 
in  less  than  14  fathoms  of  water;  it  is  also  advisable  to 
have  an  anchor  ready  for  letting  go. 

After  leaving  Boerong,  the  attempt  should  be  made  to 
fetch  Pulo-Panjang  on  the  port  tack,  passing  either  N.  or 
S.  of  the  Tambelaus.  Pulo-Panjang  is  off  the  east  coast  of 
Bintang.  Take  the  south  channel,  passing  2£  or  3  miles 
from  the  NE.  point  of  Bintang,  in  order  to  clear  the  Postill- 
ion and  make  allowance  for  the  tide  by  keeping  on  the 
southern  or  windward  side  of  the  strait.  When  off  Khio 
strait  remember  that  the  flood  sets  toward  it." 

Passage  of  the  sailing-vessel  La  Forte,  Captain  Bourgois, 
(Ann.  Hydr.,  vol.  23.) — "The  Forte  was  towed  out  of  Saigon 
on  the  llth  May.  Once  clear  of  the  river  we  beat  up 
against  the  SE.  wind,  in  order  to  double  the  banks  off  the 
mouth  of  the  Cambodia.  The  currents  in  this  locality  are 
sometimes  very  violent. 

"  On  the  12th,  wind  from  NW.  and  then  from  SW.,  blowing 
fresh.  I  wished  to  cross  the  line  as  far  to  the  eastward  as 
possible,  as  in  all  probability  I  would  find  the  SW.  mon- 
soon north  of  the  equator,  and  the  SE.,  south  of  it.  I  there- 
fore steered  for  the  passage  east  of  Great  Natuna,  leaving 
the  island  to  windward  during  a  violent  NW.  squall. 


314  FROM  SAIGON   TO   SINGAPORE. 

"The  peak  of  Great  Natuna  can  be  seen  for  60  miles ;  the 
small  island  north  of  Pulo  Laut  is  visible  for  30  miles ;  the 
eastern  coast  of  Great  Natuna  is  clear  of  all  dan  gers.  Passed 
the  island  on  the  16th  ;  beyond  this,  light  winds  from  SSE. 
to  SSW.,  with  moderate  rain-squalls  from  S.  to  W.  Beat 
through  the  passage  situated  between  Great  Natuna  and 
Low  island  on  the  right,  and  Subi  and  West  islands  on  the 
left;  current  about  1  knot  to  NE.-  On  the  21st,  22d,  and 
23d  frigate  becalmed  near  West  island;  drifted  from  15  to 
18  miles  per  day,  to  the  NE.  On  the  24th  bore  to  the 
southward  and  lost  sight  of  Great  Natuna  peak.  On  the 
27th,  while  beating  up  with  a  light  SSE.  breeze,  sighted 
Tambelan  island,  distant  from  45  to  55  miles.  Between 
Borneo,  Tambelau,  and  the  Direction  and  Pulo-Datou  chain 
of  islands,  there  is  a  large  basin  where  a  vessel  can  beat 
up  against  the  monsoon,  and  even  anchor  in  20  or  25  fath- 
oms of  water,  muddy  bottom.  On  the  27th,  Direction 
island  bore  S.  9°  W.  and  Tambelan  peak  N.  62°  W.;  breeze^ 
moderate  and  from  SW.;  sky  cloudy  and  overcast.  We 
had  scarcely  hauled  the  frigate  up  on  the  starboard  tack, 
and  taken  two  reefs  in  the  topsails,  before  the  wind  jumped 
around  to  W.,  blowing  fresh.  Squalls  from  west  all  the 
rest  of  the  day  and  night;  between  them,  however,  the 
breeze  was  regular  and  moderate  from  SSE.  to  SW. 

4iln  Bouillet's  Dictionary  these  squalls  are  called  the 
4  Borueos.'  Commencing  from  the  SW.  they  shift  to  W. 
and  NW. ;  consequently,  if  well  clear  of  the  coast  ot  Borneo 
a  captain  can  use  them  to  make  to  the  southward  on  the 
starboard  tack.  As  the  weather  became  better,  the  wind 
returning  to  SSE.,  we  ran  out  of  the  basin  on  the  evening 
of  the  29th,  passing  5  miles  to  leeward  of  Direction  island 
on  the  port  tack.  The  wind  in  this  locality  followed  to  a 
certain  extent  the  motion  of  the  sun.  blowing  from  SE.  in 
the  morning,  and  from  SW.  in  the  evening. 

u  This  point  of  the  voyage  reached,  Captain  Bourgois 
states  that  he  decided  to  keep  to  windward,  and  if  possible 
reach  Carimata  passage  by  the  north  of  Billiton ;  and  thence, 
if  the  wind  should  haul  to  the  southward,  to  still  keep  on 
the  starboard  tack  as  far  as  Borneo,  when  he  intended  to 
go  about  and  stand  for  Java ;  or  if,  on  the  other  hand,  the 
wind  should  come  out  from  the  eastward,  to  round  close  to 
the  NW.  point  of  Billiton  on  the  port  tack,  and  thus  reach 


FROM  SAIGON  TO   SINGAPORE.  .'51  "* 

the  Java  sea  through  Stolze  channel.  This  idea  proved 
successful.  The  Forte  beat  to  SE.  from  the  30th  May  until 
the  4th  June,  to  reach  the  north  point  of  Billiton.  The 
weather,  however,  was  not  very  good,  squalls  being  frequent 
from  ESE.  to  SE.  during  the  day,  and  from  SSE.  to  S. 
during  the  night.  On  the  morning  of  the  4th,  when  we 
had  nearly  finished  the  starboard  tack,  we  sighted  Carimata 
island,  distant  36  miles  to  the  E. ;  but  the  wind  had  as 
usual  shifted  to  ESJ3.  Though  we  endeavored  to  reach  Billi- 
ton, so  as  to  be  ready  to  go  through  Stolze  channel  the  next 
morning,  a  NE.  squall,  followed  by  a  calm,  compelled  us  to 
anchor  before  we  were  up  to  the  west  coast  of  the  island. 
Our  anchorage  was  about  10  miles  NE.  from  the  outer  one 
of  the  Eleven  islands,  and  was  well  protected  from  the 
winds  of  this  season  ;  bottom  mud;  depth  16  fathoms.  We 
got  under  way  on  the  morning  of  the  5th  and  rounded  the 
islands  at  a  distance  of  about  2  miles ;  reeling  off  about  ten 
'knots  during  a  heavy  NE.  rain-squall,  which  hid  all  the 
land. 

"When  the  sky  cleared  we  were  abreast  of  Tjeroutjoup 
roads,  where  we  found  two  Dutch  men-of-war  at  anchor. 
This  seems  to  be  a  very  safe  anchorage  during  the  south 
monsoon.  During  the  evening  of  the  oth  the  wind  died 
away,  and  we  anchored  in  18  fathoms,  bottom  sand  and 
gravel,  to  west  of  a  beautiful  bay  with  a  sandy  beach,  situ- 
ated between  Pulo  Batu  and  Mendanao  islands.  From  this 
anchorage  the  islet  off  the  W.  point  of  Meudanao  bore  ESE., 
and  the  one  off  the  W.  point  of  Pulo-Batu  NE.  Got  under 
way  on  the  6th,  after  a  heavy  SE.  squall,  and  stood  for 
Stolze  channel  with  a  gentle  ESE.  breeze. 

"  Stolze  channel  may  be  divided  into  two  parts.  The 
first  is  the  basin,  bounded  on  the  NE.  by  the  Mendauao 
islands ;  on  the  SW.  by  the  North,  South,  and  Table  islands ; 
and  on  the  SE.  by  the  group  of  Six  islands.  In  this  basin, 
open  to  NW.,  and  7  or  8  miles  wide,  a  ship  can  beat  up 
against  the  SE.  wind  with  some  chance  of  success,  the  cur- 
rent being  moderate  and  the  sea  quite  smooth.  It  will  not 
take  over  a  day  to  reach  the  anchorage  to  leeward  of  the 
Six  islands.  Another  24  hours  on  the  port  tack  will  carry 
the  ship  through  the  second  part  of  Stolze  channel.  This 
second  part  lies  south  of  the  first,  and  has  a  channel  5  miles 
wide;  stretching  to  SW.,  between  Table  island  and  the 


316  FROM  SAIGON  TO   SINGAPORE. 

Six  islands.  Leave  Vansittart  bank  to  NW.  It  will  be 
necessary  to  beat  up  against  a  8.  wind,  even  after  doubling 
the  Six  islands.  Besides,  it  has  already  been  stated  that 
it  is  best  to  haul  up  on  the  starboard  tack  before  entering 
Stolze  channel  with  a  S.  wind ;  and  to  keep  on  this  stretch 
through  Carimata  passage,  as  far  as  Borneo.  There,  the 
wind  will  probably  shift  to  the  eastward  and  enable  you  to 
fetch  the  strait  of  Sunda  on  the  port  tack.  But  with  a  SE. 
wind  a  ship  can  easily  clear  the  strait  on  a  SW.  course. 
Soon  after  leaving  the  Six  islands,  Shoal- water  island  will  be 
sighted  at  a  distance  of  15  miles  in  clear  weather.  The 
bearings  of  this  and  the  other  islands  (especially  Saddle 
island)  will  serve  as  ranges  for  doubling  Shoal- water  island 
to  NW.,  for  clearing  Embleton  rock,  and  for  passing  on 
either  side  of  Fairlie  rock  according  to  the  direction  of  the 
wind.  Finally,  if  the  wind  come  out  from  east  after  doub- 
ling the  Six  islands,  or  even  if  it  tends  a  little  more  to  the 
northward,  head  between  S.  and  SSE. ;  and  run  to  wind- 
ward of  the  line  of  dangers  formed  by  Shoal-water  island, 
Sand  island,  and  the  adjacent  shoals.  But  the  want  of  an 
anchorage  and  the  SE.  swell  will  generally  prevent  vessels 
from  following  this  route,  except  during  steady  leading 
winds. 

u  To  return  to  the  case  of  the  Forte.  We  left  the  Six 
islands  on  the  morning  of  the  6th  June,  on  the  port  tack ; 
wind  ESE.  and  E.  As  the  wind  moderated  and  hauled 
ahead,  we  did  not  succeed  in  passing  to  eastward  of  Shoal- 
water  island  ;  the  SE.  swell  also  drifted  the  vessel  to  the 
westward ;  and  the  weather  becoming  overcast  it  was  not 
deemed  advisable  to  beat  up  among  the  reefs  between  Sand 
island  and  Pulo-Selio ;  we  therefore  bore  up  and  ran  to  west- 
ward of  Shoal-water  island.  The  difficulty  consisted  in 
doubling  Einbletou  rock  during  the  squalls,  when  no  bear- 
ings could  be  taken.  The  wind  freshening,  took  3  reefs  in 
the  topsails.  Sighted  a  rock  just  awash,  near  the  position 
of  Embleton,  also  other  reefs  in  different  directions;  the  man 
at  the  masthead  also  reported  breakers  between  Shoal- 
water  and  Sand  islands.  The  islands  were  not  in  sight  at 
the  time.  Wind  steady  from  ESE.;  weather  better.  After 
rounding  Shoal-water  island,  steered  S.,  full  and  by.  As 
the  wind  died  away  at  sunset,  anchored  8  miles  SW".  of 
Shoal- water  island  in  10  fathoms,  bottom  sand  and  gravel. 


FROM  SAIGON   TO   SINGAPORE.  317 

At  daylight  on  the  7th  got  under  way  with  a  SE.  wind  and 
doubled  Fairlie  rock  on  the  port  tack,  taking  our  bearings 
from  Shoal-water  island.  After  sighting  the  little  island 
called  North  Watcher,  we  reached  the  entrance  to  the  strait 
of  Sunda  on  the  8th  ;  arid  anchored  during  the  evening  at 
Anjer,  after  a  passage  of  28  days  from  Saigon." 


CHAPTER   X. 

ROUTES    FROM    THE    AUSTRALIAN     PORTS    TO     ASIA    AND 

CHINA. 

During  the  SE.       §171.  NORTHERLY   ROUTE  FROM  AUSTRALIA  TO  INDIA, 

Say  to°Augurs°tm  BATAVIA,  AND  SINGAPORE. — 1st.  From  Sidney  to   Torres 
strait.     Steamers  and  auxiliary  steamers  should,  after  leav- 
.    ing  Sidney,  follow  the  inner  route  advised  by  King,  and 
keep  along  the  coast  of  Australia  inside  of  the  reefs. 

Sailing-vessels,  starting  from  May  to  the  end  of  June, 
should  follow  the  outer  route,  which  passes  E.  of  Gato 
bank  and  Wreck,  (Naufrage,)  Kenn,  and  Diana  reefs.  Thence, 
they  can  cross  Torres  strait,  by  the  passage  near  Eaine 
island  or  the  one  near  Bligh  island.  The  Bligh  passage  is 
preferable. 

In  support  of  these  opinions  we  will  give  the  following  in- 
structions from  the  Australia  Directory  : 
Relative  merits     «  The  outer  route  is  more  likely  to  interest  commanders 

of  the  two  routes. 

of  merchant- vessels,  whose  chief  object  is  generally  to  make  a 
quick  passage  with  the  least  amount  of  labor.  This  route,  no 
doubt,  possesses  thi-s  advantage;  but  it  must  be  borne  in  mind 
that  the  passage  through  the  Great  Barrier  reefs,  from  the 
Coral  sea  into  Torres  strait,  is  frequently  attended  with  dan- 
ger, and  sometimes  the  loss  of  the  vessel,  notwithstanding 
the  recent  surveys  and  the  erection  of  the  beacon  on  Eaine 
island.  These  disasters,  however,  would  doubtless  be  less 
frequent  were  the  Great  Northeast  (Bligh)  channel  more 
used,  as  it  may  be  generally  navigated  by  night,  so  that  the 
time  and  labor  saved  by  not  being  compelled  to  anchor  so 
frequently  as  in  the  route  by  Eaine  island,  would  more  than 
compensate  for  the  90  miles  which  the  former  route  exceeds 
the  latter  in  distance. 

"Notwithstanding  all  that  has  been  said  in  favor  of  the 
inner  route,  supported  by  the  weighty  authority  of  Captain 
King,  the  outer  route  is  undoubtedly  preferred  by  nearly  all 
the  merchant-vessels  bound  from  Sydney  to  Torres  strait, 
more  especially  since  the  late  survey  of  the  Coral  sea." 


FROM  AUSTRALIA   TO   INDIA.  319 

Captain  Blackwood  remarks  as  follows : 
"  Opinions  are  divided  as  to  the  respective  merits  of  the 
various  routes  through  Torres  strait.  During  the  season  of 
SE.  winds,  that  is,  from  May  to  September,  either  the  chan- 
nel by  the  Ilaine-island  beacon  or  that  near  Bligh  island,  sit- 
uated north  of  Darnley,  furnishes  a  quicker  route  than  the 
passage  along  the  coast  inside  the  reefs.  Such  being  the 
case,  merchant-vessels  make  use  of  this  outer  route,  as  much 
time  is  gained  thereby. 

u  Steamers  bound  to  India  during  the  W.  monsoon,  that 
is,  from  November  to  March,  will  find  it  greatly  to  their  ad- 
vantage to  take  the  Torres-strait  route.  And  I  think  Cap- 
tain King's  inshore  route  is  the  best  for  them,  as  wood  may 
be  obtained  along  the  east  coast,  nor  do  I  see  why  the  voy- 
age from  Sydney  to  Singapore  need  take  more  than  five 
weeks,  as  the  SE.  winds  will  be  carried  up  to  14°  or  15°  S. 
before  the  west  wind  sets  in." 

We  will  finish  these  considerations  on  the  best  route  by 
giving  the  principal  results  obtained  at  the  Dutch  Observa- 
tory relative  to  passages  from  Australia  to  Java. 

Below  will  be  found  the  mean  crossings  of  14  ships  which 
took  the  Maine-island  passage.  One  of  these  vessels  left  in 
April,  three  in  May,  four  in  June,  five  in  July,  and  one  in 
August. 

30°  S.  crossed  at  156°  20'  E.,  after    2.1  days  at  sea. 
25o  S.          u        157°  20' E.,  after    4.0          « 
200  S.          «        1560  20' E.,  after    6.7          " 
150  S.          «        150°  20' E.,  after    9.6          " 
1400  E.          «          loo  30'  S.,  after  16.8          " 
1300  E.          »          100  12' S.,  after  20.5          « 
1200  E.          «          100  12'  S.,  after  25.2          " 
110°  E.          "  9°  12'  S.,  after  27.3          " 

The  points  of  departure  for  the  above  table  were  Sydney, 
Newcastle,  and  Bass  strait.  The  vessels  which  left  Bass 
strait  took  a  mean  time  of  2.5  days  to  reach  35°  S.  at  154°  20' 
E.,  and  2.6  days  to  go  from  35°  to  30°  S.,  crossing  the  latter 
parallel  at  156°  20'  E. 

We  will  now  give  the  mean  crossings  of  21  vessels  ichich 
took  the  Bligh-island  passage.  Three  of  these  left  in  April, 
4  in  May,  7  in  June,  4  in  July,  2  in  August,  and  1  in  Sep- 
tember. The  points  of  departure  were  the  same  as  those  in 
the  preceding  table,  except  four,  which  were  from  Melbourne. 


320  FROM  AUSTRALIA  TO   INDIA. 

30°  g.  crossed  at  156°  20'  E.,  after    3.3  days  at  sea. 
25°  S.          "        157°  20'  E.,  after    5.9          " 
20°  S.          u        1550  20'  E;,  after    9.1          " 
150  s.          "        1510  50'  E.,  after  11.7          " 
1500  E.          "          13o  30'  S.,  after  12.7          « 
1400  E.          "          HP  36' S.,  after  20.0          « 
1300  E.          u          10o  00'S.,afte:  23.5          " 
1200  E.          u          100  54' S.,  after  28.1          " 
1100  E.          «  90  12'  S.,  after  30.2          « 

The  four  vessels  which  left  Melbourne  took  a  mean  time 
of  6  days  to  reach  35o  S.  at  158°  20'  E.  Those  which  left  by 
Bass  strait  were  3.2  days  in  reaching  35°  S.  at  152°  20'  E.; 
and  afterward  from  2  to  3  days  in  reaching  30°  S.  at  about 
1570  E. 

By  comparing  these  two  tables  it  will  be  seen  that  27  days 
were  consumed  in  reaching  110°  E.  when  the  Raine-island 
passage  was  used  on  the  route  from  Australia  to  Java,  and 
30  days  by  the  Bligh-island  passage. 

Notwithstanding  this  result,  we  still  are  in  favor  of  the 
route  by  Bligh-island  passage,  as  it  is  less  dangerous  and 
only  gives  an  increase  of  two  days'  voyage  for  vessels  leav- 
ing the  same  Australian  port. 

2d.  The  Bligh-island-passage  route* — After  doubling  cape 
Rodney  and  the  SB.  part  of  New  Guinea,  vessels  should 
reach  9°  10'  N.  and  make  the  westing  on  that  parallel,  pass- 
ing north  of  the  Eastern  Fields  and  Portlock  reefs.  Thence 
run  4  or  5  miles  south  of  Bramble  key,  a  sand-bank  about  9 
or  12  feet  above  low  water,  and  visible  7  or  8  miles  from  the 
mast-head. 

During  the  night  it  is  well  to  avoid  the  southern  part,  be- 
tween Bramble  key  and  the  ledge  of  reefs  to  northward  of 
Darnley  island,  and  anchor  north  of  Bramble  key  in  about 
22  fathoms  of  water.  However,  a  ship  can  lie-to  or  stand 
off  and  on  to  the  northward  of  the  key,  being  careful  not  to 
get  inside  of  7  fathoms  on  the  coast  of  New  Guinea. 

Near  Bramble  key  the  flood  comes  from  NE.  or  E.  at 
a  speed  of,  sometimes,  2  knots;  the  ebb  comes  from  the  op- 
posite direction,  and  is  swifter.  It  is  generally  safe  to  count 

*  Indications  concerning  the  beginning  of  this  voyage,  from  Sydney 
to  the  end  of  the  reefs,  will  be  found  under  the  head  of  "  3d.  The  Raine- 
island-passage  route." 


FROM:  AUSTRALIA  TO  INDIA.  321 

on  a  knot  of  westerly  current,  unless  the  strait  is  approached 
after  a  squall,  when  a  greater  allowance  should  be  made. 

Water  may  be  obtained  on  Daruley  island,  but  the  men 
should  never  go  on  shore  in  these  localities  without  being 
well  armed. 

We  will  now  cite  several  accounts  of  different  trips  made 
through  Bligh  passage : 

Passage  of  the  Pactole,  Captain  Allaire,  through  Torres 
strait,  (Ann.  Hydr.,  vol.  30.) — "  I  was  off  Portlock  reef  on 
the  16th  August.  Shaped  my  course  for  Bligh  passage ;  at 
six  shortened  sail ;  squally ;  strong  breeze  and  rain  from 
SE.  At  5  a.  m.  got  bottom  at  31  fathoms,  sand.  During 
the  night  ship  drifted  15  miles  WSW.  in  12  hours,  from 
which  I  inferred  that  the  current  sets  toward  the  strait  at 
this  season.  Headed  for  the  strait  at  7  o'clock ;  sighted 
Darnley  island,  bearing  SSW.,  also  the  breakers  NE.  of  that 
island  ;  passed  1  mile  from  the  reef.  Darnley  island  is  very 
high;  it  can  be  seen  for  25  or  30  miles  in  clear  weather,  and 
is  a  good  mark  for  entering  the  strait.  At  noon  on  the  17th 
Darnley  island  bore  N. ;  position,  9°  37'  S.  and  143°  22'  E. 
Passed  between  Daruley  and  Marsden;  at  1  p.  m.  doubled 
Kennel  island  to  the  northward,  at  a  distance  of  1  mile;  at 
3.30  I  was  in  mid-channel  between  Cocoa-nut  and  Dove 
islands.  Headed  for  Bet-island  pass.  Strong  SSE.  and  SE. 
breeze  all  day,  with  squalls.  Ship  making  10  knots  with  a 
double-reefed  topsail  breeze ;  pressed  on  more  sail  in  order 
to  clear  the  difficult  passes  before  dark.  At  5  p.  m.  anchored 
under  the  lee  of  Bet  island.  Vessels  can  anchor  to  leeward 
of  any  of  the  islands  in  this  locality.  Found  a  westerly  cur- 
rent at  our  anchorage  until  11  p.  m. ;  about  2  hours  after- 
ward it  changed.  The  ship  swung  to  the  ESB.  current, 
notwithstanding  the  strength  of  the  wind.  After  running  at 
about  2.5  or  3  knots  until  5  a.  m.  the  current  again  changed 
and  set  to  the  westward.  Got  under  way  and  at  9  a.  m. 
passed  between  Ninepin  rock  and  Saddle  island ;  at  10.30 
I  was  abreast  of  Double  island  ;  at  11.45  on  the  meridian  of 
Ince  point,  at  the  entrance  to  Prince  of  Wales  channel ;  at 
1  p.  m.  on  the  meridian  of  the  west  point  of  Goode  island, 
and  consequently  out  of  all  danger.  I  was,  therefore,  29 
hours  in  Torres  strait,  13  of  which  I  lay  at  anchor.  I  con- 
sider Bligh  passage  the  best  at  all  seasons,  on  account  of 
21  N 


322  FROM  AUSTRALIA  TO   INDIA. 

its  numerous  anchorages.  I  never  found  more  than  11.5 
fathoms  of  water,  nor  less  than  8  fathoms." 

Observations  by  Captain  Croudace,  (Mer.  Mar.  J/a^.,1864.) — 
"  Left  Sydney  July  1st,  1860,  becalmed  40  miles  from  the 
Heads  for  five  days,  then  a  nice  westerly  breeze  took  us 
down  to  the  trades;  pursued  the«new  route  through  the 
Coral  sea,  as  far  as  lat.  18°  S.,  long.  155°  E.,  from  which 
point,  instead  of  steering  for  Baine  island,  we  shaped  a 
direct  course  N W.  j  W.  by  compass,  to  pass  midway  be- 
tween the  Eastern  Fields  shoal  and  the  coast  of  Guinea,  and 
on  the  morning  of  July  17th,  at  7  o'clock,  we  sighted  the 
breakers  on  East  cay,  having  seen  nothing  from  the  above 
given  point  of  departure  until  sighting  the  cay  itself;  the 
weather  was  very  hazy  on  this  run  of  nearly  700  miles,  and 
the  nights  very  cloudy  ;  we  felt  little  or  no  current,  and  the 
ship  made  the  course  good  very  accurately;  we  ran  down 
fearlessly  until  we  sighted  the  Cays,  never  having  reduced 
sail;  at  8  a.  m.,  the  17th,  we  were  abreast  of  Anchor  cay, 
the  opening  to  Bligh  passage,  and  having  passed  it,  we 
hauled  up,  and  by  6  p.  m.  (same  day)  we  had  reached  Dove 
islet,  and  anchored  under  the  lee  of  an.  island,  (without  a 
name,)  bearing  E.  by  N.  from  Dove  islet;  the  next  day  the 
weather  was  very  unsettled  and  squally,  with  shpwers;  re- 
mained at  anchor,  having  been  joined  by  the  ship  Storm 
Cloud;  on  the  19th,  at  5  a.  m.,  we  both  weighed  and  pro- 
ceeded for  Prince  of  Wales  channel,  passing  close  round 
Bet  rock  or  islet,  and  thence  close  past  Ninepin  rock.  The 
course  from  this  rock  to  the  entrance  of  the  Prince  of  Wales 
channel  is  SW.  £  S.  by  compass,  and  there  appear  to  be  no 
dangers  in  the  way,  with  depths  of  8  and  9  fathoms. 

As  we  neared  Double  island  and  Mount  Earnest,  the  look- 
out from  the  fore-topsail  yard  reported  breakers  on  the 
starboard  bow.  As  we  approached  them,  the  ship's  position 
was  taken  as  accurately  as  the  opportunity  afforded,  and 
the  shoal  at  the  same  instant  being  judged  nearly  one  mile 
distant,  was  placed  as  follows  :  A  line  drawn  from  the  cen- 
ter of  Double  island  to  center  of  Mount  Earnest  will  pass 
through  the  center  of  the  new  reef,  (now  called  Campbell 
reef;)  it  is  6|  miles  from  the  former,*  and  5J  miles  from  the 
latter;  it  appeared  to  trend  SW.  and  NB.,  about  1  mile 

*  Ou  the  charts  of  1873,  the  center  of  Campbell  reef  is  1  or  2  miles  east 
of  the  line  given  by  Captain  Croudace. 


FROM  AUSTRALIA  TO   INDIA.  323 

long,  and  very  narrow;  should  say  it  may  have  4  to  G  feet 
over  it  when  smooth  water.  It  lies  much  in  the  track  of 
vessels  coming  up  from  Bligh  passage. 

Captain  Campbell,  of  the  Storm  Cloud,  who  passed  it  at 
the  same  time,  assigns  the  same  position  to  it.  Both  ships 
anchored  at  Booby  island  at  1.30  p.  m.,  having  come  from 
our  last  anchorage — 80  miles — in  7£  hours.  For  large,  or 
indeed  for  any  ships,  I  consider  the  Bligh  passage  prefer- 
able to  the  Raine  island  passage,  there  being  no  sunken 
reefs  or  dangers,  and  smooth-water  anchorages  the  entire 
lugth,  with  a  bank  of  soundings  as  you  approach  the  en- 
trance of  the  channel ;  110  embarrassment  from  the  glare  of 
the  sun,  as  in  the  passage  from  Raine  island.  As  a  general 
rule  also,  a  ship  will  only  require  to  anchor  once,  and  even 
that  may  not  always  be  necessary,  for,  if  taking  the  channel 
early,  as  we  did  for  example,  had  the  wind  been  more  east- 
erly, we  should  have  passed  the  narrows  before  dark,  and 
could  then  have  hove-to  until  daylight,  keeping  mount 
Adolphus  in  sight,  or  any  of  the  islands  in  that  locality, 
but  being  the  syzygy  we  found  weather  unsettled,  and  the 
winds  far  from  the  south." 

Observations  by  Captain  Ankers,  (Mer.Mar.  Mag.,  1865.) — 
u  The  ship  Queen  of  the  East,  under  my  command,  left  Syd- 
ney on  the  29th  June,  1864,  with  horses,  bound  to  Madras, 
and,  although  I  had  never  been  through  Torres  strait,  I 
determined  to  take  that  route  rather  than  attempt  a  winter 
passage  round  cape  Leeuwiu  in  a  large  ship  with  the  cer- 
tainty of  losing  some  of  the  horses.  1  accordingly  took  the 
ordinary  route  to  the  northward,  but  owing  to  a  succession 
of  very  light  winds,  and  four  days'  calm,  I  did  not  sight  the 
Eastern  Fields  until  the  14th  July,  and  from  the  same  cause 
did  not  pass  Bramble  cay  until  daylight  on  the  16th,  hav- 
ing passed  the  north  end  of  Portlock  reef  on  the  previous 
evening.  The  sea  breaks  high  on  both  Portlock  reef  and 
the  Eastern  Fields,  and  they  are  plainly  visible  from  the 
mast-head  at  the  distance  of  6  or  7  miles  in  clear  weather. 

u  July  16th,  at  7  a.  m.,  Bramble  cay  bearing  N.,  £  a  mile 
distant,  Darnley  island  peak  being  clearly  visible  bearing 
SSW.,  steered  a  direct  course  for  Stephens  island,  making 
due  allowance  for  the  tide,  (the  flood  setting  pretty  strong 
on  the  weather  beam,)  the  shoal  patches  northward  of  Darn- 
ley  island,  showing  quite  plainly,  being  covered  with  a 


324  FROM  AUSTRALIA  TO   INDIA. 

white  sand  or  ground  coral.  Carried  all  sail  during  the  day 
with  studding-sails  on  the  pore  side,  the  wind  being  light 
from  ESE. ;  at  3  p.  in.  the  weather  thick  and  squally,  the 
rain  at  times  completely  obscuring  the  land,  I  anchored  in 
9  fathoms  water,  the  NB.  end  of  Stephens  island  on  with 
the  peak  of  Darnley  island,  about  half  a  mile  off  shore,  the 
water  smooth  and  the  holding-ground  good. 

"  Sunday,  17th  July. — Got  under  way  at  daylight  with  a 
fine  breeze  from  ESE.  and  clear  weather.  Set  all  sail  and 
proceeded,  giving  her  all  studding-sails  as  we  went  along, 
passing  south  of  Dairy m pie  island,  and  north  of  Camp, 
bell,  Marsden,  Eeunel,  and  Arden  isles,  between  Dove 
and  Cocoannt  islands,  and  north  of  the  Three  Sisters,  Bet, 
Sue,  and  Poll.  The  extensive  reef  running  out  to  the  east- 
ward from  the  northernmost  of  the  Sisters  (Bet)  is  steep 
and  free  from  outlying  dangers;  I  sailed  along  within  a 
cable's  length  of  it,  in  order  to  give  a  berth  to  some  shoal- 
patches  to  leeward,  which  are,  however,  plainly  in  sight 
from  the  mast-head.  After  rounding  Bet,  the  Ninepiu  rock 
and  Saddle  island  can  be  seen  if  the  weather  be  at  all  clear — 
the  Niuepin  rock  being  not  unlike  a  vessel  under  sail.  I 
then  passed  between  the  Ninepiu  and  Harvey  rocks  ;  it  is 
better  to  keep  close  to  the  Ninepin,  in  order  to  avoid  some 
shoal-patches  which  lie  to  the  north  of  Harvey  rocks,  some 
portions  of  which  are  only  awash  at  low  water.  I  then 
steered  down  for  Double  island,  where  I  anchored  at  11  p. 
m.,  in  7  fathoms  of  water,  half  a  mile  from  shore. 

"  Monday,  18th  July. — Got  under  way  at  daylight,  made 
all  sail  and  steered  down  for  the  Prince  of  Wales  channel, 
rounding  Wednesday  spit  at  the  distance  of  80  yards,  found 
the  tide  running  like  a  mill-stream ;  rounded  Hammond 
rock  at  30  yards  distance,  the  eddies  so  strong  that  the 
helm  was  almost  useless.  From  tlie  top-gallant  yard  I 
coursed  the  ship  through  between  Ipili  and  Sunk  reef,  keep- 
ing within  120  feet  of  the  edge  of  Ipili  reef,  as  Sunk  reef 
being  covered,  renders  it  the  more  dangerous  of  the  two. 

"The  Prince  of  Wales  channel,  which  I  thought  the  best 
out  to  the  westward,  requires  very  great  caution ;  in  pass- 
ing Hammond  rock  and  Ipili  reef,  I  feel  certain  the  ship 
was  going  over  the  ground  at  the  rate  of  10  knots  per  hour, 
the  current  having  such  power  on  the  ship  that  I  was  com- 
pelled to  assist  the  helm  by  working  the  sails,  although  I 


FROM  AUSTRALIA  TO  INDIA.  325 

had  a  good  breeze  at  the  time.  I  should  therefore  consider 
it  advisable,  especially  if  the  wind  be  light  arid  baffling,  to 
take  the  Prince  of  Wales  channel  as  near  slack- water  as 
possible,  and  am  of  opinion  that  a  commander  would  be 
justified  in  sacrificing  a  few  hours  in  order  to  accomplish 
that  object,  especially  in  a  dull-sailing  or  badly-steering 
ship,  rather  than  run  the  risk  of  touching  on  the  reefs  when 
the  passage  of  the  straits  may  be  said  to  be  accomplished. 
I  reached  Booby  island  at  noon,  hove  to,  and  deposited  a 
few  necessaries  in  the  cave  for  the  use  of  those  less  for- 
tunate than  myself." 

Captain  Ankers  then  goes  on  to  state  that,  after  reading 
some  logs  which  he  found  on  Booby  island,  and  thoroughly 
considering  the  relative  merits  of  Bligh  and  Kaine  passages, 
he  is  still  in  favor  of  the  former.  He  does  not  think  the 
objection,  that  this  route  is  too  far  to  leeward,  well  sup- 
ported by  facts.  As  to  the  inhabitants  of  these  islands,  they 
are  a  miserable  race  of  savages,  without  good  huts  or  the 
least  civilization.  No  provisions  are  to  be  found  on  the 
islands,  the  natives  not  even  cultivating  bananas  or  corn. 

3d.  The  Raine  island  passage. — Instructions  of  Captain 
Blaclcwood:  "Captains  wishing  to  take  the  outer  route  from 
Sydney  are  recommended  to  sight  Cato  shoal  or  Wreck  reef. 
They  should  on  no  account  pass  west  of  153°  east  longitude 
before  reaching  17°  south  latitude.  Lihou  reef  will  be 
avoided  on  this  track,  and  the  current  will  be  found 
variable,  though  generally  setting  to  the  westward,  at  a 
little  over  one  knot  per  hour. 

"  Osprey  reef  should  be  avoided  by  passing  vessels.  It 
is  situated  in  lat.  13°  51'  10"  S.,  long.  1460  36'  E.  After 
leaving  Osprey  reef  the  course  should  be  for  the  Great 
Barrier,  at  lat.  11°  50'  S.  and  144°  n/  E.  ;  this  will  keep 
the  ship  from  being  drifted  to  northward  of  the  Raine 
island  passages. 

"Eaine  island  lies  nearly  in  the  middle  of  the  large 
opening  in  the  reef,  and  has  a  clean,  safe  channel  on  either 
side.  The  islet  is  low,  of  coral -formation,  and  has  no  fresh 
water  upon  it;  the  soil  being  covered  with  a  thick  under- 
brush. A  reef  extends  1^  miles  to  the  ESE. 

"A  substantial  round  beacon  of  stone  was  erected  in 
1844,  on  the  SE.  point  of  the  island.  It  is  CO  feet  high,* 

*  Without  the  dome,  which  has  decayed  and  fallen  in,  vide  Australia 
D  irectory . — Translator. 


32G  FEOM  AUSTRALIA  TO   INDIA. 

and  painted  with  alternate  red  and  black  vertical  stripes. 
*        It  should  be  visible  8  miles  in  clear  weather. 

"  It  is  high  water  at  Kaine  island,  full  and  change,  at 
8h  10m.  Spring  tides  rise  10  feet,  the  flood  runs  to  WN  W. ; 
the  ebb  to  the  eastward,  the  strength  of  the  stream  some- 
times exceeding  2  knots  at  full  and  change. 

u  Provisions  and  water  have  from  time  to  time  been 
deposited  in  the  chambers  of  the  tower  on  Kairie  island." 

Captain  Charles  Harrold  gives  the  following  full  and 
complete   instructions  on  the  Eaine  island  route,   (Mer. 
Mar.  Mag.,  June,  I860:) 
Captain    Har-     "Having  made   the  passage  from  Australia  to  India 

rold's     instruc-  ,    , 

through  Torres  strait  upward  of  a  dozen  times,  and  hence 
having  had  considerable  experience  of  this  route,  the  fol- 
lowing remarks  may  prove  acceptable  to  those  commanders 
who  have  not  been  through  before. 

"A  ship  leaving  Sidney  early  in  the  season,  from  the 
beginning  of  April  to  the  middle  of  May,  should  at  once 
get  an  offing;  later  in  the  season  it  is  better  to  keep 
the  land  on  board  (and  with  strong  westerly  winds)  as  far 
as  Solitary  isle  or  Mount  Warning  j  but  should  the  wind 
veer  to  the  southward,  with  a  rising  glass,  shape  a  course 
at  once  to  pass  40  or  50  miles  to  the  eastward  of  Cato 
bank ;  steering  on  a  northerly  course,  keeping  at  least  a 
degree  to  the  eastward  of  Keen  reef,  after  passing  which, 
a  NW.  course  may  be  pursued,  taking  care  to  give  the 
Cayes  and  Lihou  reefs  a  good  berth  of  50  or  60  miles. 
After  leaving  these  dangers  there  is  nothing  on  the  track  to 
the  Great  Barrier;  the  Osprey  reef  and  some  others  to  the 
southeastward  are  quite  out  of  the  way,  and  a  ship  has  no 
occasion  to  go  near  them. 

"  In  approaching  the  Great  Barrier  considerable  care  is 
necessary,  if  no  observations  for  latitude  have  been  taken ; 
and  an  allowance  must  be  made  for  the  northwesterly  set, 
so  as  not  to  get  to  the  northward  of  Eaine  island  beacon. 
The  plan  I  always  adopted  was  not  to  run  down  on  the 
Barrier  and  work  to  windward  all  night ;  but  should  the 
ship  be  upward  of  200  miles  off  at  noon,  and  not  be  able  to 
enter  the  next  day,  I  would  reduce  sail  at  once  and  steer 
slowly  on  a  course,  from  2  to  5  knots,  according  to  distance, 
so  as  to  reach  within  30  miles  of  the  Great  Detached  reef 
by  the  second  morning  at  daylight.  Should  no  observations 


FROM  AUSTRALIA   TO   INDIA.  327 

for  latitude  have  been  taken,  (or  whether  or  no,)  when 
breakers  are  sighted  from  the  mast-head,  ahead  of  the  ship 
or  a  little  on  the  port  bow,  as  you  draw  toward  the  reefs, 
or  should  you  see  them  on  the  starboard  bow  as  far  as  can 
be  seen  from  the  mast-head,  you  may  be  sure  you  are  to  the 
northward,  and  may  haul  up  immediately  on  the  port  tack  ; 
and  if  the  wind  is  far  enough  to  the  eastward  to  lay  along 
the  reef,  you  will  soon  see  clear  water,  and  sight  the  bea- 
con from  the  mast-head;  or  should  it  be  the  Great  Detached 
reef  that  you  sight,  clear  water  will  be  seen  on  the  star- 
board bow,  and  by  edging  to  the  WNW.  you  will  shortly 
see  the  beacon.  I  have  always  found  this  a  good  guide  for 
Raine  island,  for  if  you  get  too  far  down  toward  the  reefs 
before  you  find  out  your  mistake,  you  will  have  great  diffi- 
culty in  working  to  windward.  Should  you  be  to  the  south- 
ward, which  will  rarely  happen  when  steering  for  the  Great 
Detached  reef,  you  will  be  sure  to  see  Yule  reef,  and  could 
then  take  Stead  passage,  which,  however,  is  not  very  easy 
to  make. 

"After  making,  the  beacon  and  steering  down  with  it,  a 
little  on  the  starboard  bow,  the  edge  of  the  Great  Detached 
reef  will  be  distinctly  seen,ialso  the  reefs  oft'  Raine  island  ; 
when  the  beacon  bears  N.,  haul  up  SW.  by  W.  After  a  few 
miles  a  very  small  sand-bank  will  be  visible  from  the  mast- 
head, on  the  starboard  bow,  and  if  you  see  it  distinctly 
from  the  deck  of  a  small  vessel  you  are  falling  to  leeward, 
and  should  haul  up  more  to  the  southward.  This  is  one 
place,  I  think,  that  should  have  a  mast  with  a  sort  of 
basket-top  placed  on  it  as  a  beacon  j  it  would  be  a  good 
guide  for  ships  entering  late  in  the  afternoon ;  for,  after 
passing  this,  you  are  near  the  edge  of  soundings,  and  with 
night  coming  on,  after  getting  on  soundings,  you  should 
haul  well  to  the  southward  and  bring  up  at  dark,  taking 
care  to  give  at  least  GO  or  70  fathoms  of  cable,  as  the  hold- 
ing-ground is  here  very  bad,  (hard  coral.)  From  this 
anchorage  keep  well  to  windward  of  the  course  until  you 
sight  either  Ash  more  banks  or  the  Middle  banks.  Ashmore 
banks  show  much  higher  out  of  the  water  and  whiter  than 
the  Middle  banks,  which  latter  are  at  high  water  nearly 
covered.  This  also  would  be  an  excellent  place  for  a  mast- 
beacon.  If  there  is  sufficient  daylight  to  reach  Ashrnore 
banks,  or  under  the  lee  of  Cockburn  reef,  a  better  anchor- 


328  FROM  AUSTRALIA   TO   INDIA. 

age  may  be  obtained ;  or  if  it  should  be  blowing  a  gale, 
with  squally  weather,  good  anchorage  in  smooth  water  may 
be  obtained  under  the  lee  of  Sir  Charles  Hardy  islands.  In 
going  in,  keep  close  to  the  weather  island,  and  anchor  well 
to  windward  in  a  small,  sandy  bay;  by  so  doing  you  will 
be  in  a  better  position  for  weighing  in  the  morning.  In 
anchoring  here  one  voyage  the  chain  fouled  on  the  windlass, 
and  before  the  other  anchor  was  let  go  we  were  in  inid- 
channel.  Next  morning  the  tide  would  not  let  the  ship 
cant  any  other  way  than  head  to  the  northward.  The  top- 
sails were  single-reefed  and  yards  hoisted  to  the  mast-head 
before  commencing  heaving.  The  ship  broke  ground  with 
the  fifteen-fathom  shackle  in  the  hawse,  and  before  we  got 
the  anchor  off  the  ground  and  sail  made  we  were  close 
down  on  the  leeward  island,  and  only  cleared  it  by  scarcely 
a  stone's  throw.  In  coming  out  from  here  you  will  have  to 
keep  KE.  by  N.  for  a  few  miles,  and  might  have  to  tack 
should  the  wind  be  to  the  eastward ;  but  you  can  see  the 
Middle  and  Ashmore  banks  quite  plainly.  If  there  is 
sufficient  daylight  to  reach  Cockburn  reef,  it  will  be  found 
a  still  better  anchorage  than  under  Ashmore  bank.  It  is 
quite  smooth,  especially  at  low  water,  although  you  require 
a  good  scope  of  cable,  as  the  ground  appears  to  be  hard 
coral.  In  weighing  from  here  you  will  soon  see  the  edge  of 
the  reef  that  stretches  to  the  NW.,  and  you  may  run  down 
toward  it  until  you  can  see  it  distinctly  from  the  deck;  then 
edge  away  along  the  reef,  and  as  you  draw  toward  the  end 
you  will  see  two  sand-banks ;  the  nearest  one  is  small,  and 
probably  may  be  covered  at  high  water,  although  I  have- 
never  seen  it  quite  covered,  but  you  will  be  sure  to  see  it 
from  the  fore-yard  before  you  get  too  close,  and  very  likely 
before  they  see  it  from  the  mast-head.  If  bound  to  Bird 
island,  haul  close  round  the  small  sand-bank,  leaving  the 
large  bank  on  the  starboard  hand.  This  bank  is  high  out 
of  water,  with  an  extensive  reef  running  off  the  weather 
side  of  it,  which  is  also  seen  distinctly  from  the  deck.  This 
track  I  prefer  to  going  close  round  the  end  of  Cockburn 
reef  and  having  to  haul  to  the  southward.  If  bound  on  to 
Cairncross  island,  leave  the  large  bank  also  on  the  port 
hand,  and,  steering  for  the  Hannibal  island,  reefs  Y  and  W 
will  be  seen,  with  a  small  sand-bank  on  reef  V,  also  the 
Boydong  cays. 


FROM  AUSTRALIA  TO   INDIA.  329 

"After  passing  V  and  W  reefs,  the  great  danger  of 
Torres  strait  is  past,  and  all  sail  may  be  carried  down  to 
cape  York ;  or  anchor  at  Cairncross,  and  the  next  day,  with 
a  fresh  breeze  you  will  get  out  in  good  time. 

"  If  the  wind  should  be  light,  and  a  ship  not  able  to 
reach  cape  York  or  mount  Adolphus  before  dark,  anchor 
close  under  the  lee  of  a  small  sand-bank  at  the  end  of  reef 
X,  which  is  far  preferable  to  Turtle  island  ;  but  should  the 
night  be  fine  and  moonlight,  having  reached  thus  far,  a 
ship  could  run  on,  and  passing  Albany  isles,  anchor  round 
cape  York.  If  rounding  this  cape  in  daylight,  anchor 
abreast  of  two  rocky  islets,  a  short  distance  past  the  en  pe- 
rn 7  or  8  fathoms  water,  cape  York  bearing  E.  £  N.,  Peaked 
hill  SSW. ;  this  is  a  very  good  anchorage,  and  you  will  be 
in  a  position  to  choose  either  Prince  of  Wales  passage  or 
Endeavor  strait.  If  intending  to  pass  through  the  Prince 
of  Wales  channel,  (which  is  as  good  as  buoyed  and  beaconed 
by  Hammond  rock  and  the  Ipili  and  North-West  reefs,  with 
no  danger  excepting  a  strong  tide,)  should  the  wind  be  light 
and  contrary,  after  passing  the  Albany  isles  steer  to  pass 
point  Ince  half  a  mile  off,  taking  care  to  avoid  rock  A;  the 
North- West  reef  can  be  seen  from  the  mast-head  a  long 
while  before  you  reach  the  point ;  at  any  rate  should  it  be 
hazy  or  squally,  by  passing  point  Ince  close,  the  North- 
West  reef  will  be  avoided,  and  Hammond  rock  will  be  seen; 
steer  to  pass  close  to,  and  before  reaching  it  the  Ipili  reef 
will  be  distinctly  visible,  the  rocks  on  it  sticking  up  above 
water.  Borrow  toward  Ipili  reef  to  clear  Sunk  reef;  after 
passing  this  danger,  the  last  in  the  straits,  Booby  island 
will  be  seen.  Should  you  intend  to  anchor,  leave  the  island 
on  your  port  hand,  as  the  reef  extends  to  some  distance  off 
the  other  side.  The  landing  is  very  bad  at  low  water,  but 
you  can  pull  close  to  the  entrance  of  the  cave  at  high  water. 
I  was  once  detained  from  noon  till  9  p.  m.  to  land  a  few 
casks  of  water  sent  by  the  Government. 

"If  intending  to  go  by  Endeavor  strait,  which  is  quite 
safe,  after  passing  Possession  isle,  you  are  soon  out  of  the 
strong  tide.  I  have  always  passed  close  to  a  high  rugged 
island  (Entrance  island)  west  of  Great  Woody  island,  as  far 
preferable,  .and  it  leads  you  clear  of  McKenzie  and  Gibson 
rocks.  My  last  voyage  I  towed  through  with  the  boat 
ahead,  and  shortly  after  a  breeze  came  from  the  SW.,  and 


330  FROM  AUSTRALIA   TO   INDIA. 

squally,  and  we  worked  down  within  3  or  4  miles  of  Eed 
Wallis  isle,  and  brought  up  when  the  tide  turned.  Should 
the  weather  be  clear  and  fine  as  you  draw  abreast  of  Eed 
Wallis  island,  a  good  mark  for  mid-channel  is  cape  Corn- 
wall on  with  Peaked  hill,  from  which  steer  to  pass  out  to 
the  south  of  Kothsay  banks. 

"  In  conclusion,  I  again  repeat,  that  in  running  for  the 
Great  Detached  reef,  25  or  30  miles  is  quite  close  enough  to 
come  to  it  until  daylight;  for  if  a  ship  get  to  either  Ash- 
more  bank  or  Cockburn  reef  the  first  night,  or  even  only 
just  on  sounding,  she  will  reach  Cairncross  island  the  next 
day,  and  out  clear  the  day  following,  and  she  would  not  do 
any  better  by  getting  in  earlier.  She  might  reach  Bird 
island  the  first  night,  but  she  would  have  to  anchor  under 
cape  York  the  next,  excepting  she  were  -a  very  fast  ship, 
with  wind  and  tide  in  her  favor,  and  she  then  might  get 
through  ;  but  it  rarely  happens  that  a  ship  passes  through 
with  once  anchoring;  and  it  is  certainly  not  worth  the  risk 
of  running  down  close  on  the  barrier  for  the  sake  of  twelve 
hours.  I  have  often  gone  through  it  in  48  hours,'  viz,  26  at 
anchor  and  22  under  way.  I  am  satisfied  that  nearly  all 
the  wrecks  have  taken  place  through  the  anxiety  of  masters 
to  get  in  early,  and  to  running  down  too  close  on  the  Bar- 
rier. The  wrecks  inside  I  attribute  to  going  off  the  tracks 
laid  down,  and  running  in  squally  and  thick  weather. 
Great  improvement  might  be  made  by  placing  a  few  mast- 
beacons  (with  basket  tops  to  distinguish  them  by)  and 
buoys  at  various  places,  and  the  passage  by  Eaine  island 
rendered  much  easier  for  a  stranger  going  through  for  the 
first  time." 

4th.  Route  from  Torres  strait  to  Singapore. — After  leaving 
Booby  island  or  clearing  Endeavor  strait,  vessels  make  to 
the  westward,  with  a  fair  wind.  A  good  lookout  should  be 
kept  for  the  banks  beyond  Booby  island,  as  they  are  not  all 
accurately  located ;  especially  Proudfoot,  Lucius,  and  Aurora 
shoals.  Wessel  islands  should  always  be  passed  about  20 
miles  to  the  northward ;  thence  the  track  lies  between  Croker 
island  and  Money  reef.  Afterward  the  course  should  be 
shaped  so  as  to  run  about  20  miles  south  of  Damo  or  Dana, 
(to  southward  of  Rottij)  this  will  take  the  ship  close  to  Echo 
bank,  and  well  clear  of  Hibernia  and  Ashmore  shoals;  all 


FROM  AUSTRALIA  TO  INDIA.  331 

of  them  being  passed  to  northward.*  Thence  leave  Hockie 
island  (south  of  Savu)  far  to  the  northward,  and  give  a 
wide  berth  to  the  south  coast  of  Saudalwood. 

Either  Lombok  or  Alias  .strait  can  be  taken,  and  the 
reef  south  of  Baars  island  passed  several  miles  to  S W. ; 
thence  the  route  lies  through  Sapoedie  strait,  between  the 
island  of  the  same  name  and  Giliang.  Vessels  sometimes 
head  straight  for  Urk  island  after  leaving  Alias  or  Lombok 
strait.  The  passage  between  Urk  and  Kangerang  is  better 
than  the  one  to  westward  of  the  former  island. 

The  passage  across  the  Java  sea  to  Carimata  strait  is 
quite  easy.  After  leaving  Sapoedie  strait  or  Kangerang 
passage  it  is  safest  to  pass  south  of  Bawean,  a  bright  look- 
out being  kept  for  Hastings  rock  ;  thence  the  route  runs  10 
or  12  miles  north  of  the  Crimou-Java  islands.  The  depart- 
ure may  be  taken  from  Parang  island — the  most  north- 
westerly of  the  group — for  Carimata,  and  that  island  will 
soon  after  be  raised,  liun  east  of  Discovery,  Lavender, 
and  Cirencester  banks ;  and  when  Carimata  peak  is  sighted 
K.  20°  W.,  head  for  it,  until  able  to  take  the  position  of 
the  vessel  by  cross-bearings  on  Carimata  and  Soruetou 
islands.  Thence  bear  to  the  westward,  and  pass  between 
Soruetou  and  Ontario  banks.  Auxiliary  steamers  can  head 
for  Rhio  strait  from  this  point  j  but  sailing-vessels  should 
make  for  Singapore  strait,  passing  east  of  Bintang,  and 
looking  out  for  Pratt  reef,  Frederick  rock,  Geldria  bank, 
and  all  the  dangers  off  Panjang.  This  island  should  be 
doubled  to  NE.,  when  the  course  should  be  for  Horsburgh 
light.  The  South  channel,  3  or  4  miles  to  southward  of  the 
light,  can  be  used. 

It  is  hardly  advisable  to  take  the  route  through  Torres 
strait  from  September  to  May.  For  though  it  is  possible 
to  run  through  Bligh  passage  at  this  season,  the  danger  of 
losing  your  vessel  among  the  reefs  is  great,  and  much  time 
will  be  lost  while  at  anchor  during  the  squally  weather 
frequent  in  that  locality.  Vessels  with  steam-power  can 
take  this  route  if  they  have  enough  coal  on  hand  to  reach 
Kupang,  (Timor,)  as  it  is  doubtful  if  they  can  fill  cheir  bunk- 
ers on  the  NE.  coast  of  Australia. 

The  best  route  for  sailing-vessels  leaving  Sydney  during  the 
JS  W.  monsoon  consists  in  following  at  first  the  route  for  Bligh 
*  Vessels  can  coal  at  Kupang,  (Timor.) 


FROM  AUSTRALIA  TO   INDIA. 

passage.  Keep  well  to  west  of  Bamptou  reef,  pass  east  of 
Mellish  shoal,  and  round  San  Christoval  island  (the  most 
eastern  of  the  Solomon  group)  to  the  eastward.  Some  ves- 
sels prefer  passing  west  of  Mejlish  shoal,  coasting  the  south- 
ern shores  of  the  Solomon  group,  and  running  north  of  New 
Ireland,  where  they  sight  St.  John  and  the  Green  islands. 
Whether  passing  east  or  west  of  the  Solomons,  always  keep 
clear  of  the  New  Guinea  coast,  particularly  in  November, 
December,  and  January.  A  ship  should  reach  the  neigh- 
borhood of  6°  N.  as  soon  as  possible  5  here  the  prevalent 
NE.  wiud  will  probably  enable  her  to  head  for  the  Pelew 
islands.  After  passing  these  islands  to  the  southward  enter 
the  Celebes  sea,  by  the  Serangani  islands;  the  Sulu  sea,  by 
Basilan  strait;  and  the  China  sea,  by  Balabac  strait. 

For  further  information  the  reader  should  refer  to  the 
examples  given  in  §  139.  Information  concerning  the  first 
part  of  the  passage  will  also  be  found  in  §  173  ;  and  the  voy- 
age should  end  by  following  the  return  route  from  Singa- 
pore to  Palawan  passage,  (vide  §  154.) 

§  172.  SOUTHERLY  ROUTE  FROM  AUSTRALIA  TO  INDIA, 
BATAVIA,  AND  SINGAPORE. — We  do  not  advise  this  route, 
and  the  reader  may  perceive,  by  referring  to  the  preceding 
paragraph,  that  Torres  strait  may  always  be  taken  from 
May  to  August,  even  if  the  port  of  departure  be  Melbourne. 

From  September  to  May  the  route  passing  north  of  New 
Guinea,  though  longer,  is,  we  think,  preferable  to  that  by 
the  south  of  Australia,  especially  for  poorly-fitted- out  ves- 
sels or  slow  sailers.  Still,  this  route  can  be  taken,  from 
October  to  March,  by  vessels  leaving  Port  Adelaide,  Mel- 
bourne, or  even  Sydney.  Fine  passages  are  often  made  at 
this  season,  but  the  voyage  is  generally  boisterous,  and  the 
weather  bad.  From  cape  Otway  to  cape  Leeuwin  both  wind 
and  current  are  frequently  contrary ;  nor  is  it  rare  to  strike 
a  NW.  or  SW.  gale  and  heavy  sea  in  this  part  of  the  voy- 
age. Vessels  leaving  Sydney  can  run  through  Bass  strait, 
especially  in  January,  February,  and  March.  Of  course,  if 
vessels  have  steam  to  rely  on  in  case  of  necessity,  and  are  well 
equipped  in  other  respects,  they  can  take  the  southerly  route. 

We,  however,  would  never  advise  this  route  for  vessels 
leaving  Sydney,  or  even  Melbourne,  during  the  southern 
winter;  and  captains  bound  to  Port  Adelaide  should  en- 
deavor to  make  their  arrangements  so  as  not  to  leave  that 
port  for  Batavia  or  Singapore  during  the  winter  months. 


FROM  AUSTRALIA   TO   INDIA. 

We  will  now  quote  Hie  instructions  of  the  British  Admi- 
ralty, Jforsburgh,  and  the  Dutch  Observatory  on  this  south- 
erly route : 

"  British  Admiralty  route  to  the  westward,  south  of  Austra- 
lia.— Ships  bound  from  Sydney  to  Europe  or  Hiudostan 
may,  from  the  1st  September  to  the  1st  April,  proceed  by 
the  southern  route  through  Bass  strait,  or  round  Tasmania, 
easterly  winds  being  found  to  prevail  along  the  south  coast 
of  Australia  at  that  season,  particularly  in  January,  Feb- 
ruary, and  March,  when  ships  have  made  good  passages  to 
the  westward,  by  keeping  to  the  northward  of  40°  S.,  and 
have  passed  round  cape  Leeuwin  into  the  southeast  trade- 
wind,  which  is  then  found  to  extend  farther  south  than  during 
the  winter  mouths.  In  adopting  this  route  advantage  must 
be  taken  of  every  favorable  change  of  the  wind,  in  order  to 
make  westing;  and  it  is  advisable  not  to  approach  too  near 
the  land,  on  account  of  the  southwest  gales  which  are  often 
experienced,  even  in  the  summer,  and  the  contrary  currents, 
which  run  strongest  in  with  the  land.  The  prevalence  of 
strong  westerly  gales  renders  the  southerly  route  very  diffi- 
cult ;  indeed,  generally  impracticable  for  sailing-vessels  in 
the  winter,  although  the  passage  has  been  performed  at 
that  season  by  ships  in  good  condition  that  sailed  well ; 
but  the  northern  route  through  Torres  strait  is  preferred  in 
the  winter  months." 

Horsburgli's  instructions  :  "  Ships  bound  from  Sydney  to 
Europe,  or  Hindostau,  may  adopt  the  southern  passage, 
through  Bass  strait,  or  round  Tasmania,  if  they  depart  be- 
tween the  beginning  of  September  and  the  end  of  March. 
In  the  months  of  January,  February,  and  March,  SE.  winds 
frequently  prevail  about  Tasmania,  and  near  the  coast  of 
Australia,  enabling  ships  to  make  considerable  progress  to 
the  westward ;  they  ought,  however,  to  preserve  a  consid- 
erable distance  from  the  south  coast,  in  order  to  benefit  by 
every  change  of  wind  in  their  favor,  and  to  avoid  being 
driven  too  near  the  laud  by  southerly  or  SW.  gales,  which 
are  likely  to  happen  at  times.  The  strong  westerly  gales 
which  prevail  here  in  winter  render  the  southern  passage  diffi- 
cult ;  yet  it  has  sometimes  been  performed,  even  in  that  sea- 
son, by  ships  which  were  in  good  condition  and  sailed  well. 

"  Captain  Middleton,  however,  is  of  opinion  that  the  west- 
erly winds  are  not  so  strong  or  so  constant  near  the  south 


334 


FROM  AUSTRALIA   TO  INDIA. 


coast  of  Australia,  as  they  have  been  experienced  in  the 
winter  months  at  a  great  distance  from  the  land.  While 
he  lay  in  King  George  sound,  a  colonial  brig  arrived  in  June 
from  Hobart-Town  in  nineteen  days;  in  which  month,  also, 
an  open  whale-boat,  employed  sealing  along  the  coast, 
arrived  from  the  eastward ;  and,  in  July,  a  small  vessel, 
about  twenty  or  thirty  tons  burden,  arrived  in  thirty-nine 
days  from  Launceston,  which  was  thought  to  have  touched 
at  Kangaroo  island,  and  thereby  prolonged  her  passage. 
Captain  Middleton  sailed  from  King  George  sound  August 
12th  in  the  ship  James  Pattison,  rounded  cape  Leeuwin,  and 
reached  Swan  river  a  week  after  his  departure  from  the 
former  place." 

A  recent  publication  by  the  Dutch  Observatory  contains 
the  data  from  which  the  following  tables  have  been  com- 
piled. The  reader  will  perceive  that  each  of  the  tables  con- 
tains two  lines  for  every  month.  The  1st  line  shows  the 
crossings  made  by  the  shortest  passage  under  canvas;  the 
2d  line,  the  crossings  by  the  longest  route. 

Table  of  routes  from  cape  Otway  to  cape  Leeuwin,  showing  the  shortest  and 
longest  passage  for  each  month. 


1. 

|t 

Crossings  and  time  taken  to  reach  them. 

£1 

ll 

135°  E. 

130°  E. 

125°  E. 

120°  E. 

115°  E. 

£  s 

,8  a  • 

|1 

<£  o5  £ 

02 

00 

02 

. 

02 

•L 

02 

« 

02 

A    , 

H 

3 

3 

1 

3 

1 

\ 

I 

3 

o 

o 

o 

0 

o 

5 

January  .  .  .  < 

37.8 
37.5 

3.5 

7.0 

37.8 
36.8 

5.0 
9.0 

38.0 
35.8 

7.0 
13.8 

38.0 
36.0 

8.5 
16.0 

36.0 
36.2 

10.5 
20.0 

7 

February  .  .  ? 

39.2 
38.2 

4.5 
8.0 

39.0 
37.2 

6.0 
12.5 

39.2 
37.5 

7.5 
15.8 

38.2 
39.0 

9.0 
20.5 

37.0 
36.0 

10.5 
23.5 

8 

March  | 

38.8 
40.2 

1.5 
4.0 

37.0 
40.5 

3.5 
7.0 

36.2 
42.0 

4.8 
10.8 

36.2 
41.0 

6.0 
18.0 

35.0 
38.0 

9.0 
21.8 

( 

36.8 

2.8 

36.8 

5.0 

36.2 

7.5 

36.2 

9.5 

35.0 

12.5 

5 

April  ? 

37.8 

6.5 

35.2 

11.0 

36.0 

14.8 

37.5 

16.8 

35.5 

20.0 

1 

May  

38.0 

2.5 

38.2 

4.5 

3e.  5 

5.8 

39.8 

7.2 

40.2 

11.2 

36.  0 

2.0 

36.8 

4.0 

37.0 

5.8 

36.0 

9.5 

37.0 

11.0 

2 

June  ? 

39.2 

4.0 

39.8 

6.0 

39.0 

7.8 

39.8 

11.0 

39.5 

12.5 

f 

36.2 

2.5 

36.0 

4.5 

36.0 

6.0 

37.0 

9.0 

35.8 

11.0 

3 

July  < 

41.0 

5.2 

42.2 

7.2 

40.8 

11.2 

41.0 

12.8 

37.0 

17.2 

3 

August  < 

39.8 
36.5 

4.5 
4.0 

37.8 
36.2 

6.8 
6.8 

40.5 
35.8 

8.5 
10.0 

41.0 
36.8 

11.2 
13.8 

36.2 
35.5 

15.5 
17.0 

11 

September,  £ 

37.2 
39.5 

3.8 
6.8 

37.5 

38.5 

5.8 
13.0 

37.2 
39.0 

6.8 
14.8 

37.2 
40.5 

8.0 
19.2 

37.5 
36.0 

9.8 
31.8 

10 

October  .  .  .  j 

36.2 
44.5 

4.2 
9.2 

36.8 
46.2 

6.8 
13.0 

38.0 
45.5 

7.2 
22.2 

38.0 
42.8 

11.0 
26.8 

35.8 
43.5 

12.8 
31.8 

6 

November.  ? 

36.5 
39.8 

6.8 
3.0 

36.5 
37.5 

8.5 
6.5 

36.5 
37.8 

9.8 

8.8 

36.5 
37.2 

11.8 
17.2 

35.8 
36.5 

14.5 
19.5 

6 

December  .  ? 

38.2 
36.5 

2.8 
5.8 

37.0 
37.8 

6.5 
9.5 

36.5 
40.0 

8.8 
16.2 

36.8 
38.2 

10.5 

18.8 

35.5 
36.5 

14.0 
21.8 

67 

Means  .. 

38.3 

4.4 

37.5 

7.1 

37.5 

9.8 

37.7 

12.9 

36.4 

17.0 

TABLE  OF  ROUTES  FROM  CAPE  LEEUWIN  TO  JAVA. 


335 


OJ 


oJsJSSSS; 


IS'SSgi^sgiS'ssi 


QD  \n  oo  o  oo  o  c<  i 


^  «  ej  «  -*  <jj  n  n  si  n  n  o»  o  w  «  cf  - 


ving  the  meridian 
ape  Otway. 


, 

liliiltli 


,-ici    eo      co      -H      o      to 


-AoA  jo 


336  FROM  AUSTRALIA   TO   CHINA. 

e       §  173'     R°UTE     FROM     AUSTRALIA     TO     COCHIN-CHINA, 

CHINA,  AND  JAPAN. — Vessels  bound  to  Saigon,  and  even 
those  bound  to  Hong-Kong,  from  May  to  August,  should 
follow  the  route  indicated  in  §  171  and  pass  through  Torres 
strait.  They  should  enter  the  China  sea  by  Cariinata  strait 
and  finish  the  voyage  as  stated  in  §§  153  and  154. 

Vessels  bound  to  Hong-Kong  can  also  take  the  route 
north  of  New  Guinea.  After  passing  the  Serangani  islands 
and  Basilan  strait,  they  should  enter  the  China  sea  south 
of  Mindoro.  If  it  be  decided  to  follow  this  route,  the  course 
from  Sydney  should  be  ENE.  so  as  to  pa'ss  to  southward 
and  eastward  of  Ball  pyramid.  The  northing  should  be 
made  between  159°  and  161°  E.  A  good  watch  should  be 
here  kept  for  the  reefs  marked  on  the  charts,  as  well  as  for 
those  which  are  supposed  to  exist  between  23°  30'  and  18° 
S.  After  reaching  14°  or  13°  S.,  the  course  should  be  about 
NW.  for  St.  George's  channel;  this  will  also  carry  the  ship 
clear  of  Pocklington  bank  and  Laughlan  islands,  as  well  as 
the  west  coast  of  Bougainville.  Vessels  should  be  careful 
not  to  let  the  current  set  them  to  the  westward,  as  they 
may  then  be  unable  to  make  St.  George  sound.  If  this  does 
happen,  Dampier  strait,  between  New  Britain  and  Book 
island,  can  be  taken.  This  strait  is  little  frequented  and 
oan  only  be  crossed  by  watching  the  reefs  carefully  from 
the  mast-head. 

After  clearing  St.  George's  channel  the  course  should  be 
W.  or  WNW.  to  pass  to  northward  and  eastward  of  the 
Admiralty  isles,  and  thence  between  the  Hermit  and  An- 
chorite islands,  or  a  little  to  northward  of  the  latter. 
Thence  the  route  keeps  south  of  the  line  as  far  as  the 
Providence  islands,  which  should  be  doubled  to  the  north- 
ward 5  thence  passes  east  of  the  Asia  islands,  and  half  way 
between  Morty  island  to  the  west  and  Lord  North  island 
to  the  east.  During  this  last  part  of  the  route  it  is  prob. 
able  that  the  currents  will  first  set  to  NE.,  then  to  E.,  and 
finally  to  W. 

After  leaving  Lord  North  island  the  course  is  for  Mean- 
gis  and  Sevangani  islands  and  Basilan  strait.  A  bright 
lookout  should  be  kept  for  Iphigenia  reef.  The  passage 
ends  as  described  in  §  150  in  the  description  of  the  route  to 
€hina  (during  March  and  April)  for  vessels  which  have 


FKOM  AUSTRALIA  TO   CHINA.  337 

taken  Macassar  strait,  and  afterward  passed  through  Basi- 
lan  strait  and  along  the  west  coast  of  the  Philippines. 

Vessels  bound  to  Shanghae  and  Yokohama  can  follow  the 
same  route  until  they  are  north  of  New  Guinea.  They 
should  cross  the  equator  near  142°  E.,  and  pass  east  of  the 
Pelew  islands,  when  they  will  begin  to  find  the  variable 
NE.,  NW.,  and  SW.  winds,  generally  known  as  the  SW. 
monsoon.  If  bound  to  Shanyhae,  they  should  run  south  of 
the  Loo-choo  islands,  and  thence  easily  finish  the  voyage 
with  the  frequent  SW.  winds.  Typhoons  are  frequent  in 
this  locality  from  June  to  November,  (vide  §  20.)  If  bound 
to  Yokohama  they  should,  after  leaving  the  Pelews,  head 
for  the  passage  between  the  Borodino  and  Loo-choo  islands; 
thence  both  the  winds  and  Kuro-Siwo  current  will  be  favor- 
able, (vide  §  37.) 

*  During  this  season  (from  September  to  March)  you  will    ad.  During  the 
have  a  choice  between  two  routes  called  the  "  Easterly  "*1 
Eoute."     The  first  passes  west  of  New  Caledonia  and  the 

Santa  Cruz  islands,  and  east  of  the  Solomon  group.  This 
is  the  shortest,  but  has  the  inconvenience  of  running  through 
localities  where  reefs  are  numerous  and  not  all  located.  The 
second  route  runs  east  of  New  Caledonia  between  the  Fijis  and 
the  New  Hebrides.  It  is  longer,  but  safer  and  more  clear 
of  dangers.  It  also  passes  through  a  zone  of  steadier 
winds,  and  is  probably  the  best  for  vessels  leaving  Mel- 
bourne or  coming  from  Europe  by  the  south  of  Australia. 
Passages  by  this  route  are  quite  as  rapid  as  by  the  other. 

The  course  out  of  Sydney  should  be  ENE.  and  to  the 
southward  and  eastward  of  Ball  Pyramid. 

The  northing  should  be  made  between  159°  and  161°  E., 
between  which  meridians  a  careful  lookout  should  be  kept 
for  reefs.  Keep  well  clear  of  the  reefs  lying  to  NW.  of  New 
Caledonia,  especially  as  the  wind  is  liable  to  be  from  SSW. 
to  NNW.  in  that  locality.  Afterward  head  NNE.  as  far  as 
164°  E.,  when  follow  this  meridian  to  the  north,  and  thus 
pass  between  San  Christoval  and  Santa  Cruz  islands. 

Vessels  to  eastward  of  the  Solomon  islands,  and  the 
islands  and  reefs  situated  to  the  north,  at  the  beginning  of 
the  NE.  monsoon,  should  steer  N.  by  W.  or  NNW.  if  pos- 
sible and  cross  the  Carolines  between  155°  and  149°  E.  A 

*  The  instructions  given  in  this  second  part  are  mainly  extracts  from 
Horsburgh. 

22  N 


338  FKOM  AUSTRALIA   TO   CHINA. 

bright  lookout  should  here  be  kept  for  new  reefs,  as  well  as 
for  those  on  the  charts,  as  the  positions  of  many  of  them 
are  not  accurately  determined.  . 

Once  north  of  the  Carolines,  the  course  should  be  laid  for  the 
south  point  of  Guam  island,  (the  most  southern  of  the  Maria- 
nas,) which  can  be  passed  on  either  side.  A  vessel  north  of 
the  island  can  take  either  the  channel  south  of  Tinian,  or  that 
north  of  Saipan.  Enter  the  China  seas  by  the  Bashees  and 
finish  the  voyage  as  indicated  in  §  150,  under  the  descrip- 
tion of  the  route  from  Hong-Kong  to  Pitt  passage. 

If  the  Solomon  islands  are  doubled  after  January,  when 
the  SE.  monsoon  is  no  longer  settled,  the  course  should  be 
NW.,  so  as  to  run  between  Eap  (or  Yap)  island  and  the  Ngoli 
(or  Matelotas)  islands.  Vessels  can  also  go  between  the 
Goulou  and  Pelew  groups;*  thence  round  the  NE.  ex- 
tremity of  Luzon  at  a  convenient  distance  and  tak6  one  of 
the  passages  between  Luzon  and  Formosa.  Finish  the 
voyage  as  stated  in  §  150,  (vide  route  by  Pitt  passage.) 
Route  passing  This  route  passes  east  of  Norfolk  island  and  close  to 
""  Mathew  rock ;  the  latter  is  visible  for  25  miles.  After  run- 

ning to  eastward  of  Mathew  rock  the  course  should  be  N. 
by  E.  or  N.,  a  good  lookout  being  kept  and  due  allowance 
made  for  the  westerly  current.  Keep  between  the  171st 
and  172d  meridians  without  attempting  to  sight  Erronau 
island,  and  thus  double  the  New  Hebrides.  Vessels  can 
pass  between  Erronan  and  Tamra  if  drifted  to  westward. 
It  is,  however,  generally  best  to  pass  well  east  of  all  the 
islands ;  if  the  chronometers  be  faulty,  Fataka  (or  Mitre) 
can  be  sighted  at  a  distance  of  22  miles.  Thence  the  course 
is  N.  or  NNW.  for  the  line  between  160°  and  168°  E.  If 
the  westerly  current,  which  is  strong  in  this  locality,  will  al- 
low, the  attempt  should  be  made  to  run  through  the  Caro- 
line group  between  162°  50'  and  162°  20'.  But  if  the  equa- 
tor be  reached  between  160°  and  162°  E.,  it  is  best  to  cross 
the  Carolines  between  the  meridians  of  156°  and  155°,  as 
there  are  fewer  reefs  and  islands  in  that  locality. 

Once  north  of  the  Carolines,  the  course  should  be  about 
west  in  order  to  pass  south  of  Guam,  or  through  one  of  the 
passages  situated  in  the  northern  part  of  the  Mariana 
group,  the  one  south  of  Tinian,  or  that  north  of  Saipau, 

"According  to  the  N.  Pacific  Directory  the  "Goulou"  island  is  an- 
other name  for  the  Ngoli  islands. — Translator. 


FROM  AUSTRALIA  TO   CHINA.  330 

for  instance.  Thence  the  vessel  should  be  headed  for  one 
of  the  channels  between  Luzon  and  Formosa.  For  infor- 
mation concerning  the  end  of  the  voyage  vide  §  150,  (route 
by  Pitt  passage.) 

Vessels  bound  to  Shanghae  or  Yokohama  can  follow 
either  of  the  above-mentioned  routes ;  the  latter  is,  how- 
ever,  the  preferable.  Passing  east  of  the  Solomon  islands 
they  should  cross  the  equator  in  the  neighborhood  of  166° 
or  168°  E. ;  and,  after  striking  the  NE.  trades,  run  on  either 
side  of  Ualan  and  Providence  islands,  and  thence  north  of 
the  Marianas. 

Vessels  bound  to  Yokohama  should  keep  west  of  the  Vol- 
cano islands,  and  reach  30°  JS.  to  westward  of  their  port. 
Between  28°  and  31°  N.  the  current  will  be  found  favorable, 
and  the  wind  variable  or  westerly.  Ships  bound  to  Shang- 
hae should  run  north  of  the  Marianas,  or  between  Grigan 
and  Assumption  j  thence  north  of  the  Borodino  and  Loo- 
choo  islands,  whence  the  voyage  will  be  easy. 

Observations  of  Captain  Win.  Hall,  (Ann.  Hydr.,  1870:) 
"Left  Newcastle  (New  South  Wales)  on  the  6th  August, 
with  a  moderate  SE.  wind  j  SW.  wind  on  the  10th ;  sighted 
Middleton  atoll  j  it  seems  to  be  placed  correctly  on  the 
charts  ;  the  sea  breaks  all  around  the  reef,  the  water  inside 
being  smooth.  From  the  llth  to  the  17th  violent  rain- 
squalls  and  wind  from  WS  W.  to  WNW.  As  we  were  too  far 
to  the  eastward,  did  not  sight  Hunter  or  Geru  island.  As 
we  rounded  it  the  wind  gradually  hauled  to  SE.,  and  we 
sighted  Mitre  island  on  the  23d.  When  first  raised  it  looks 
like  two  islands  j  off  the  north  coast  there  is  a  rock  which 
resembles  a  ship  under  canvas.  At  noon  we  sighted 
Anouda  or  Cherry  island ;  its  position  11°  36'  S.,  and  1G9° 
43'  15"  E. 

u  Experienced  westerly  currents  until  we  sighted  Pleasant 
island  at  daylight  on  the  29th.  Between  the  equator  and 
8°  N.  the  wind  was  variable,  and  the  current  easterly,  with 
a  speed  of  from  25  to  30  miles  per  day.  Though  we  headed 
for  Ovalou,  or  Armstrong  island,  (?)  we  were  drifted  in 
sight  of  Baring  island.  Here  a  light  SE.  breeze  carme  to 
our  assistance  j  also  a  feeble  westerly  current,  which  we 
kept  till  we  reached  14°  N.  at  155°  E.,  the  wind  shifting 
from  SE.  to  SW.,  with  a  heavy  SW.  sea  running. 

11  We  passed  in  sight  of  Providence,  or  Arecifos  islands, 


340  FROM  MELBOURNE   TO   SYDNEY. 

with  the  intention  of  making  Alamagan  or  Grigan,  and 
running  thence  north  of  the  Loo-choos,  but  did  not  strike 
the  trades  until  we  bad  passed' the  Marianas,  and  even  then 
they  only  blew  feebly  for  2  or  3  days.  The  wind  then  caine 
out  from  the  N.,  and  obliged  us  to  run  to  leeward  of  the 
Loo-choo  group,  and  beat  up  for  3  or  4  days,  notwith- 
standing the  fact  that  we  had  the  Kuro-Siwo  in  our  favor. 
The  wind  then  shifted  to  E..  and  two  days  afterward  we 
sighted  the  Saddle  islands  after  a  passage  of  62  days  from 
Newcastle. 

"We  started  in  company  with  several  other  vessels ;  two 
of  these  entered  the  China  sea  through  Van  Diemen  strait, 
and  made  the  passage  in  51  days.  The  worst  sailer  of  all 
reached  the  light-ship  on  the  same  day  as  we  did;  although 
we  were  14  days  ahead  of  her  when  we  passed  Providence 
island.  As  she  struck  fresh  winds  beyond  this  point  she 
made  up  all  the  time  lost.  This  is  just  the  contrary  to  what 
happened  to  Captain  Brown,  making  the  same  voyage  in 
October  and  November,  1865.  It  is  probable,  if  we  had 
struck  the  trades  a  little  later,  and  not  run  quite  so  far 
north  just  before  reaching  the  Loo-choos,  that  we  would 
have  made  the  shortest  passage." 

§  174.  ROUTE  FROM  PORT  ADELAIDE,  OR  MELBOURNE, 
TO  SYDNEY. — We  will  only  give  a  resume  of  this  route,  as 
information  concerning  it  will  be  found  in  several  other 
paragraphs.  After  leaving  Melbourne,  or  Port  Adelaide, 
the  course  is  through  Bass  strait,  unless  there  are  indica- 
tions of  an  east  wind.  January,  February,  and  March  are 
the  months  when  a  wind  from  this  direction  is  to  be  feared. 
If  Bass  strait  is  taken,  Horsburgh's  instructions,  given  in 
§  104,  should  be  followed.  A  NE.  by  E.  course  from  the 
Kent  group  clears  cape  Howe  by  about  60  miles ;  it  is, 
however,  advisable  to  head  much  farther  to  the  eastward, 
if  the  wind  is  strong  from  the  south.  By  disregarding  this 
precaution — as  Horsburgh  and  the  British  Admiralty  both 
remark — a  vessel  may  bring  up  on  a  lee  shore  in  the  center 
of  the  bight,  which  is  150  miles  long  and  lies  between  Wil- 
son promontory  and  cape  Howe,  on  the  Australian  coast. 
There  is  a  fixed  light  on  Gabo  island,  (south  of  cape  Howe,) 
visible  22  miles.  Cape  Howe  is  a  low,  sandy,  and  rocky 
point,  making  out  from  the  foot  of  the  mountains. 


FROM  MELBOURNE  TO  SYDNEY.  -Ml 

Vessels  passing  west  of  Tasmania  should  keep  well  clear  of 
the  coast  until  they  are  to  eastward  of  the  island,  when 
they  should  run  up  along  the  land  for  cape  Howe,  as  stated 
in  §  104,  in  the  extract  from  the  "  Australian  Directory." 

The  latitude  is  the  surest  guide  in  approaching  the  east- 
ern coast  of  Australia.  The  soundings  extend  for  12  or  15 
miles  from  the  land. 


CHAPTER    XI. 

ROUTES  FROM  CHINA  AND  ASIA  TO  AUSTRALIA. 
erlyrou?e!801ltl1"      §  175'  ^OUTE  FROM    SINGAPORE   TO    AUSTRALIA.— -This 

route  may  be  taken  at  all  seasons.  The  following  observa- 
tions, on  the  voyage  from  Singapore  to  Australia  and  New 
Caledonia,  are  due  to  Captain  Hunter,  (Ann.  Hydr.,  vol. 
16:) 

"  The  most  frequented  route  to  the  SE.  coast  of  Austra- 
lia is  that  which  passes  south  of  that  continent.  The  mean 
passage  to  Melbourne  and  Sydney  is  from  9  to  10  weeks. 
Voyages,  under  canvas,  have  been  as  quick  as  7  weeks  to 
Sydney,  and  a  few  days  shorter  to  Melbourne.  The  voyage 
to  Port  Curtis  and  New  Caledonia  is  10  or  15  days  longer. 
Only  well-equipped  and  staunch  vessels  should  attempt  to 
make  this  route. 

"From  Singapore  to  Banka  and  Billiton  the  wind  is  N.  and 
NW.,  between  November  and  March  ;  there  is,  however,  a 
slight  chance  of  striking  a  W.  or  WSW.  wind.  If  the  wind 
be  fresh  arid  steady,  run  for  Bali  strait ;  otherwise,  time 
may  be  lost  in  attempting  to  beat  against  the  SW.  wind  in 
the  strait  of  Sunda.  Latterly,  Bali  strait  is  used  by  the 
Dutch  vessels  going  from  Batavia  to  Europe,  as  they  pre- 
fer to  run  to  the  eastward,  along  the  southern  coast  of  the 
island  rather  than  to  beat  through  the  strait  of  Sunda. 
Bali  strait  is  clean,  and  does  not  need  a  pilot ;  it  is  easy  of 
exit  from  November  to  March,  even  when  the  wind  is  from 
SW.,  as  it  is  open  to  SE.*  Good  water  and  provisions  can 
be  obtained  at  Banjoewangie.  Vessels  usually  find  calms 
and  light,  baffling  airs,  or  southerly  squalls,  in  the  Indian 
ocean,  between  the  monsoon  region  and  the  steady  SE. 
trade-belt;  sometimes  the  transition  period  only  lasts  a  few 
hours.  The  zone  of  SE.  trades  lies  between  10°  and  32°  S. 
The  trades  are  occasionally  found  as  far  south  as  the  40th 
parallel.  Ships  bound  to  Port  Curtis,  or  New  Caledonia, 
should  run  south  of  Tasmania,  and  thus  get  clear  of  the 

*  Alias  strait  is  perhaps  better,  (vide  §  115.) 


FROM  SINGAPORE   TO   AUSTRALIA.  343 

east  winds,  which,  during  the  summer,  are  quite  frequent 
in  Bass  strait.  In  the  high  southern  latitudes  the  wind  is 
cold  and  variable,  but  a  well-clothed  crew  will  not  suffer 
much.  After  doubling  Tasmania  the  course  is  straight  for 
New  Caledonia.  Vessels  bound  to  Port  Curtis  should  not 
go  within  300  miles  of  the  east  coast  of  Australia  until  they 
reach  the  parallel  of  Sandy  cape,  (24°  40'  S.,)  as  NB.  winds 
are  very  frequent  near  the  coast.  If  they  need  stores,  they 
can  stop  at  Hobart  Town. 

"  The  southerly  route  is  certainly  the  quickest  from  May 
to  September  inclusive.  The  winds  will  be  ahead  and  from 
SE.  as  far  as  the  strait  of  Sunda;  it  is,  however,  easy  to 
clear  the  strait  and  enter  the  Indian  ocean,  when  the  SE. 
trades  will  be  found  strong  and  settled  as  far  as  28°  S. 
Below  this  parallel  are  the  *  brave  west  winds7  to  carry 
you  toward  your  destination.  These  winds  weather  cape 
Howe  and  blow  from  S.  and  SW.  along  the  eastern  coast  of 
Australia  as  far  as  the  tropic,  thus  giving  a  fair  wind  to 
port  Curtis  or  New  Caledonia  at  this  season.  The  faults  of 
this  route  are:  the  SE.  winds  from  Singapore  to  the  strait 
of  Sunda,  and  the  cold  winter  weather  in  the  high  south- 
ern latitudes ;  a  heavy  cross-sea  is  also  here  frequent, 
caused  by  the  sudden  shifts  of  wind  from  NW.  to  SW." 

The  reader  should  refer  to  §  104,  where  will  be  found 
instructions  on  the  advantages  and  disadvantages  of  Bass 
strait ;  also  to  Horsburgh's  instructions,  (vide  §  104.)  We 
would  especially  caution  the  reader  concerning  the  danger 
of  running  too  close  to  the  west  coast  of  Tasmania,  (vide 
§§  104  and  107.) 

We  are  again  indebted  to  the  Dutch  Observatory  for  the 
following  table,  which  contains  the  crossings,  etc.,  of  9 
routes,  from  the  strait  of  Sunda  or  Lombok  strait  to  cape 
Otway: 


344 


G^ABLE   OF   ROUTES  FRO31  JAYA   TO   AUSTRALIA. 


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FROM   SINGAPORE   TO   AUSTRALIA.  345 

This  route  should  only  be  undertaken  from  May  to  Sep- er^-r£|£  north- 
tember.  Captain  Hunter  remarks  that  the  tracft  from 
Singapore  to  Australia,  by  way  of  the  North  Pacific,  has 
never  been  tried,  nor  is  it  practicable  for  vessels  bound 
to  ports  south  of  Moreton  bay  on  account  of  the  frequency 
of  the  southerly  winds  between  the  east  coast  of  Australia 
and  New  Zealand.  Though  the  delay  caused  by  these 
winds  will  be  great,  the  voyage  may  be  accomplished  by 
jjassenger  vessels  wishing  to  avoid  the  cold  weather  of  high 
southern  latitudes. 

Vessels  leaving  Singapore,  Saigon,  or  Hong-Kong  during 
the  season  of  the  SW.  monsoon,  can  pass  through  Formosa 
channel,  if  about  to  follow  the  northerly  route  ;  or,  what  is 
perhaps  better,  they  can  enter  the  Pacific  by  the  Bashee 
island  channel,  south  of  Formosa,  as  they  will  then  have 
the  Japan  current  in  their  favor.  According  to  Horsburgh, 
it  is  well  to  run  for  107°  or  172°  E.  before  bearing  south  of 
30°  N. ;  a  good  weatherly  sailer,  however,  may  enter  the 
trades  even  10°  more  to  the  westward.  It  would  also  seem 
that  the  easting  might  be  made  between  25°  and  30°  N., 
with  the  SW.  monsoon  of  the  China  sea.  Captain  Hunter 
states  that  both  water  and  stores  may  be  obtained  at  Peel 
island,  one  of  the  Bonin  group. 

The  harbor  on  the  western  coast  of  the  island  is  much 
frequented  by  whalers ;  vegetables  and  turtles  being  there 
found.  Vessels  can  also  put  in  at  the  Kingsmill  islands  or 
Pleasant  island,  (0°  35'  S.  and  167°  10'  E. ;)  they  are  both 
abundantly  provided  with  fresh  provisions. 

Further  information  concerning  this  route  will  be  found 
in  §  177. 

§  170.  THE  EASTERLY  ROUTES  FROM  SINGAPORE  OR 
BATAVIA  TO  AUSTRALIA,  NEW  CALEDONIA,  AND  NEW 
ZEALAND,  (ivhen  starting  from  the  15th  November  to- the  loth 
February.) — Captain  Hunter  has  given  interesting  and  de- 
tailed instructions  concerning  these  easterly  routes,  between 
Singapore  and  Australia  (vide  Ann.  Hydr.,  vol.  Ifi.)  We 
give  his  statements  below  in  as  condensed  a  form  as  possi- 
ble. 

Before  deciding  on  a  route  the  reader  should,  however, 
first  refer  to  the  preceding  paragraph,  where  will  be  found 
instructions  on  the  southerly  route. 

Though  the  easterly  route  is  the  most  direct  from  Singa- 


346  FROM  SINGAPORE   TO   AUSTRALIA. 

pore  to  Sydney,  port  Curtis,  and  New  Caledonia,  the  wind 
is  not  'always  favorable  during  the  whole  voyage.  Still 
vessels  leaving  Singapore  from  the  middle  of  November  to 
the  middle  of  February  may  count  on  a  fair  wind. 

There  are  two  easterly  routes :  1st,  that  passing  north  of 
New  Guinea,  which  is  best  fitted  for  sailing-vessels  of  over 
150  tons  ;  2d,  the  one  through  Torres  strait,  which  is  best 
for  all  vessels  with  steam-power  and  sailers  of  less  than  150 
tons,  especially  if  they  are  packets  and  have  to  stop  for 
provisions  or  water. 

fo1?' Jnfn|™£  *Tne  firsfc  Parfc  of  this  route  was  given  in  §  114.  From 
wLVd  ^f  i?rew  Singapore  the  course  is  for  Gilolo  or  Pitt  strait.  Provisions 
Guinea.  may  be  obtained  at  Bonthein,  (southern  extremity  of 

Celebes,)  or  at  Gebi,  (Gilolo  passage.)  The  anchorage  at 
Bonthein  is  large,  and  safe  during  the  westerly  monsoon. 
Excellent  water,  wood,  vegetables,  etc.,  may  be  here  obtained 
at  moderate  prices.  At  Gebi  the  anchorage  is  equally 
good ;  though  fresh  water  is  abundant,  the  provisions  are 
inferior.  Vessels  bound  through  Dampier  or  Pitt  strait 
lengthen  their  passage  somewhat  by  stopping  at  Gebi.  It 
is  never  advisable  to  anchor  at  port  Dorei,  (?)  as  the  harbor 
is  small  and  the  natives  are  dangerous. 

This  passage  is  used  by  whalers ;  if  set  to  leeward  by 
the  easterly  winds,  they  are  in  the  habit  of  running  down 
toward  the  line,  in  which  locality  westerly  winds  are  com- 
mon from  November  to  March. 

Dampier  ran  through  the  strait,  which  bears  his  name, 
in  1699,  and,  coasting  the  northern  shore  of  New  Guinea, 
rounded  New  Britain.  He  found  the  westerly  monsoon 
quite  strong,  sometimes  even  amounting  to  a  gale. 

Captain  Hunter  quotes  from  the  logs  of  the  Meaudre, 
Captain  Keppel;  the  Rattlesnake;  and  a  vessel  under 
command  of  Forrest  Thomas,  to  prove  the  possibility  of 
making  this  passage  to  the  eastward  at  any  season  of  the 
year.  He  then  gives  his  own  experience,  as  follows:  In 
October,  1855,  he  was  off  the  Asia  islands,  (situated  north 
of  Waygiou  island,)  and  aiming  to  make  easting  with  a 
light,  variable  wind  and  strong  westerly  current  against 
him;  headed  N.,  and  on  the  19th  was  in  lat.  2°  06'  N., 

*  The  author  again  repeats  that  the  route  south  of  Australia  is  the 
best,  for  sailing-vessels.  The  reader  is  also  referred  to  the  Appendix  at 
the  end  of  §  177. 


FROM  SINGAPORE   TO  AUSTRALIA.  347 

long.  134:°  II7  E.  He  here  lost  the  contrary  currents,  and 
steered  east,  keeping  between  2°  15'  and  2°  34'  N.  On  the 
27th  the  ship  was  in  long.  146°  59'  E.  Steering  SE.,  St. 
Matthias  island  was  sighted.  His  orders  being  to  cruise  in 
this  locality,  he  ran  into  St.  George's  channel  and  with  a 
favorable  current  stood  for  the  Solomon  group.  Alter 
cruising  among  the  islands  until  the  19th  December,  he 
carried  a  westerly  wind  as  far  as  109°  3G'  E.  After  passing 
south  of  Banks  island  on  the  2Cth  December,  he  was  be- 
calmed for  two  or  three  days,  then  with  variable  ESE.  by- 
winds  he  made  to  the  southward,  and  anchored  in  the  bay  of 
Islands  on  the  15th  January.  Here  is  au  example  of  a 
passage  being  made  by  an  average  vessel,  unprovided  with 
studding-sails,  in  the  most  unfavorable  season,  and  over  a 
route  generally  considered  impracticable.  It  is  therefore 
possible  to  make  this  easterly  voyage  by  keeping  between 
the  trades  and  the  monsoons  and  north  of  the  equatorial 
current. 

On  another  occasion,  being  at  1°  S.  and  149°  20'  E.,  on 
the  23d  June,  and  after  having  been  drifted  near  New  Han- 
over and  St.  Matthias  islands,  by  a  westerly  current,  run- 
ning at  a  rate  of  from  2.5  to  3  knots  per  hour,  Captain 
Hunter  stood  north  and  found  a  west  wind  near  the  equa- 
tor. He  then  made  to  the  eastward  and  reached  155°  E.  at 
0°  45'  S.  on  the  27th.  He  sighted  point  Bourka  (Bougain- 
ville) soon  afterward,  and  found  the  westerly  current  as 
strong  as  at  Matthias  island.  At  this  season  the  westerly 
current  does  not  extend  quite  to  the  equator. 

In  September,  1840,  the  same  captain  could  not  hold  his 
own  against  the  westerly  current,  near  the  Admiralty  isles, 
and  had  to  run  to  2°  F.  before  losing  the  westerly  set.  He 
then  went  about  to  the  eastward  and  made  his  southing 
under  the  eastern  coast  of  the  Monteverde  islands,  (154°  05' 
E.,  4°  45'  S.)  Captain  Hunter  also  made  the  passage  from 
Morty  to  Bouka  (Bougainville)  in  the  month  of  August. 
He  could,  of  course,  have  made  the  remainder  of  the  voy- 
age, but  his  orders  took  him  no  further  than  the  Solomon 
group.  The  line  of  the  westerly  current  rarely  runs  north 
of  the  parallel  of  2°  N.  Finally,  he  quotes  five  vessels 
which  made  this  easterly  passage  between  January  and 
April ;  one  of  them  following  the  equator  till  east  of  the 
Kingsmill  group,  another  keeping  near  the  Solomon  islands 


348  FROM   SINGAPORE   TO   AUSTRALIA. 

and  New  Zealand,  and  the  remaining  three  running  near 
New  Ireland  and  the  adjacent  islands.  From  all  these  ex- 
amples, he  concludes  that  a  vessel  reaching  Gilolo  passage 
or  Dampier  strait,  between  the  loth  December  and  the  15th 
March,  can  make  a  rapid  passage  to  any  port  situated  in 
east  longitude.  Moreover,  he  thinks  the  passage  practica- 
ble at  all  seasons,  provided  the  ship  is  kept  north  of  the 
equatorial  current  and  between  the  monsoons. 

The  following  directions  for  the  season  of  the  west  mon- 
soon are  also  given  by  the  same  authority : 

Northerly  and  northwesterly  winds  are  common  at  this 
time  near' the  cape  of  Good  Hope,  (New  Guinea.)  To  east- 
ward of  this  point  the  west  wind  is  generally  strong  and 
steady,  the  current  setting  to  the  east,  with  a  speed  of  from 
2  to  2.5  knots,  between  the  coast  of  New  Guinea  and  1°  N. 
This  wind  and  current  will  hold  while  passing  the  St.  David 
isles,  and  running  north  of  the  Providence  islands,  (0°  20' 
S.)  Hence  there  is  a  choice  between  several  passages. 
The  strait  to  eastward  of  Dampier  (between  Rock  island 
and  New  Britain)  is  perhaps  the  most  direct  for  Sydney, 
but  can  hardly  be  advised  until  a  more  complete  survey  is 
made  of  the  locality.  St.  George's  channel  can  be  taken. 
The  best  way  to  make  for  this  passage  is  to  keep  along  the 
equator  as  far  as  the  longitude  of  the  Admiralty  isles,  and 
then  edge  away  to  the  southward  and  eastward,  passing  to 
westward  of  Matthias  island;  the  reefs  and  low  islands 
farther  to  the  southward  will  thus  be  avoided.  Sail  may 
be  carried  boldly  while  cruising  north  of  the  Admiralty 
group,  as  there  are  no  dangers  near  the  line  in  that  locality. 
The  best  route,  however,  especially  when  bound  to  any  of 
the  islands  to  the  eastward,  is  that  running  north  of  the 
Solomon. 

The  following  observations  were  published  in  the  Indian 
Archipelago  Journal,  1851 : 
lSd     "The  °uly  vessels  which  have  used  Torres  strait,  up  to 

6  Present  time,  are  those  making  passage  to  the  westward. 
strait.  xhe  three  or  four  ships  which  attempted  the  voyage  from 

west  to  east  experienced  great  difficulty,  from  the  irregu- 
larity of  the  westerly  monsoon,  (from  November  to  March.) 
One  vessel,  however,  bound  from  Sydney  to  Port  Essing- 
ton,  in  April,  via  the  Middle  passage,  met  a  NW.  wind  at 
19°  S.  She  made  six  knots  per  hour  for  five  days,  and 


FROM   SINGAPORE   TO   AUSTRALIA.  349 

a  I  forward  held  the  same  wind  to  the  Arm  islands  and 
Macassar.  The  fine  season  in  Torres  strait,  as  far  as  cape 
York,  is  from  November  to  March  ;  this  is  also  the  season 
of  good  weather  iii  the  Molucca  islands,  (vide  §  13.)  The 
winds  are  never  strong  enough  in  Torres  strait  to  interfere 
with  a  steamer  making  passage  in  any  direction." 
"  Captain  Hunter  says:  "The  Torres  strait  route  is  the 
shortest,  the  distance  from  Singapore  to  Port  Curtis  being 
about  3,400  miles.  It  is  advised  for  small  vessels,  as  water 
may  be  obtained  frequently. 

"Vessels  bound  from  Singapore  to  Torres  strait  follow 
the  same  route  as  those  bound  north  of  New  Guinea  until 
they  reach  Salayer  strait j  here  the  tracks  separate;  the 
former,  bearing  to  the  SE.,  keeps  along  the  north  coast  of 
Timor.  Provisions  may  be  obtained  at  Manatuti,*  (126° 
55'  E.)  This  roadstead  is  sheltered  from  westerly  winds, 
but  it  is  dangerous  to  run  in  close  when  the  wind  is  to  the 
northward  of  west.  Kisa  bay  (about  127°  05')  is  a  better  , 
anchorage,  as  small  vessels  can  run  well  in  with  the  land, 
the  coast  being  bold  and  the  harbor  safe  at  this  season, 
(November  to  March.)  Vessels  can  anchor  with  equal 
safety  on  the  south  coast  of  Moa,  (127°  55'  E.)  Water  and 
provisions  are  obtainable  at  botli  anchorages.  The  best 
roadstead  at  Moa  is  off  the  four  villages,  four  miles  from 
the  SW.  point  of  the  island. 

"  Endeavor  strait  is  the  best,  when  coming  from  the  west- 
•\vard.  Vessels  carry  4.5  fathoms,  at  low  water,  over  the 
shoal est  parts.! 

"  The  western  entrance  to  Endeavor  strait  is  easily  recog- 
nized. The  depths  across  the  head  of  the  gulf  of  Carpenta- 
ria are  about  36  fathoms,  while  about  120  miles  from  the 
entrance  the  soundings  diminish  to  30,  19,  and  9  fathoms. 
Captains  should  be  careful  to  keep  south  of  the  parallel  of 
Booby  island,  to  avoid  the  banks  to  WNW.  In  clear 
weather  Prince  of  Wales  island  will  be  sighted  at  a  dis. 
tance  of  30  miles,  and  before  Booby  or  Wallis  island,  as  the 
latter  can  only  be  seen  for  fifteen  miles.  There  are  several 
channels  between  the  sand  banks  of  Endeavor  strait.  The 
largest  and  best  lies  north  of  Red  Wallis  island.  Steer 

*  Probably  Mantotte. — Translator. 

t  As  will  be  seen  hereafter,  the  author  prefers  the  Prince  of  Wales 
channel,  when  running  for  Bligh  passage. 


350  FROM  SINGAPORE  TO  AUSTRALIA. 

for  Red  Wallis,  when  it  bears  E.  20°  S.,  and  Booby  island 
K  by  E.  (by  compass)  distant  10  miles.  The  strait  can  then 
be  safely  entered  between  the  points  extending  from  cape 
Cornwall  and  Wallis  islands ;  and  the  two  3-fathom  ledges 
will  also  thus  be  cleared.  The  depths  in  the  passage  vary 
from  4  to  8  fathoms,  and,  with  the  exception  of  Heroine  and 
Eagle  rocks,  the  strait  is  clear  of  dangers. 

u'MacKeuzie's  three  voyages  in  the  Heroine,  in  1844-'5-'6, 
together  with  a  dozen  others  on  record,  do  not  speak  very 
favorably  for  this  route ;  for  after  clearing  the  Barrier,  the 
vessels  were  detained  in  the  open  sea  by  variable  winds. 

"  In  1847-'8  a  vessel  taking  the  inner  route  found  that  the 
easterly  winds,  frequent  outside  the  Barrier,  rarely  blew  in 
with  the  land;  NW.  winds  were  often  found,  and  lasted  for 
several  successive  days.  Generally  the  monsoon  began  as 
a  laud-breeze  toward  midnight,  and,  blowing  all  day,  died 
away  calm  again  in  the  evening.  The  inner  route  is  clear 
of  coral  reefs,  and  the  weather  being  fine  at  this  season,  the 
landmarks  can  generally  be  made  out.  Light  squalls  are, 
however,  common,  especially  at  night. 

"  On'  dark  nights  vessels  should  always  anchor  until  they 
are  500  miles  distant  from  cape  York. 

"  Twelve  days  is  a  good  passage  from  cape  York  to  cape 
Curtis." 

To  complete  the  instructions  already  given  in  §  115,  and 
which  refer  to  the  route  via  Endeavor  strait,  we  give  below 
Horsburgh's  observations : 

"  Coming  from  the  westward,  for  Endeavor  strait,  a  ves- 
sel standing  along  the  parallel  of  10°  50'  S.  will  first  sight 
at  20  or  25  miles'  distance  the  high  lauds  of  Prince  of  Wales 
islands,  exteudiug  from  NE.  to  EKE.  At  11  or  12  miles'  dis- 
tance the  northern  Wallis  island  will  be  raised  from  the 
mast  head,  bearing  S.  75°  E. ;  also  Booby  island,  bearing 
N.  5°  E.  North  Wallis  island  looks  at  first  like  two  islands, 
about  a  ship's  length  apart,  the  southern  appearing  the 
larger  of  the  two.  South  Wallis  island  is  low,  flat,  and 
wooded,  the  largest  trees  being  on  its  northern  extremity. 
North  and  South  Wallis  islands  are  separated  by  a  danger- 
ous channel  a  mile  and  a  half  wide;  the  channel  south 
of  the  Wallis  islands,  between  them  and  the  mainland, 
should  not  be  used,  as  it  is  full  of  shoals." 

Steamers  follow  the  inner  route  from  Endeavor  strait  to 


FROM  SINGAPORE   TO   AUSTRALIA.  351 

Sydney.     Auxiliary  steamers  and  sailing-vessels  should  head 
for  the  Bligh  passage. 

Once  clear  of  Entrance  island,  they  should  head  NE. 
for  30  miles;  this  will  bring  them  near  Harvey  rock;  they 
should  then  pass  between  the  North  Sister  and  Long  island. 
But  instead  of  Endeavor  strait,  the  shortest  and  simplest 
route  for  auxiliary  steamers  and  sailing-vessels  is  through 
Prince  of  Wales  channel ;  this  track  lies  north  of  Booby 
island.  All  experience  goes  to  prove  that  the  Bligh  passage 
is  the  best;  this  opinion  being  substantiated  by  the  follow- 
ing remarks  by  Captain  Blackwood  : 

u  Leaving  Sourabaya  on  the  12th  January,  I  took  three 
weeks  to  reach  Endeavor  strait.  Squalls  and  light  westerly 
airs  caused  some  delay.  A  good  steamer  ought  to  accom- 
plish the  2,000  miles,  to  cape  York,  in  ten  days. 

"  From  February  to  the  end  of  March,  when  the  monsoon 
changed  to  the  SE.,  ending  in  a  heavy  NW.  squall,  the 
weather  was  never  too  bad  to  interfere  seriously  with  our 
explorations ;  and  if  this  one  was  a  fair  sample  of  the  usual 
westerly  monsoon,  I  regard  this  season  as  much  better  than 
that  of  the  SE.  monsoon. 

"  I  think  that  Captain  King's  inner  route  should  always 
be  followed  by  a  steamer,  as  the  short  delay  occasioned  by 
anchoring,  during  the  first  5  or  G  nights,  will  be  amply  com- 
pensated for  by  the  speed,  during  the  day,  in  the  smooth 
water  of  this  sheltered  route.  Even  with  due  allowance  for 
the  winter  storms,  common  near  Sydney,  the  2,000  miles'  dis- 
tance, from  cape  York  to  Sydney,  ought  to  be  run  in  15  days. 

"I  would  recommend  the  Bligh  passage  for  sailing-vessels, 
as  the  track  is  clear  of  coral  reefs,  and  a  ship  can  anchor 
anywhere."  * 

Instructions  relative  to  the  greater  part  of  this  route  will   From  Singapore 
be  found  on  the  preceding  pages ;  we  will,  however,  com- 
plete  them  with  a  few  considerations  bearing  especially  on 
the  latter  part  of  the  voyage.    Captain  Hunter  remarks  as 
follows : 

"  When  the  route  north  of  New  Guinea  has  been  chosen, 
the  easting  should  be  made  along  the  line  as  far  as  the  152d 

*  Detailed  instructions  for  the  Bligh  passage  will  be  found  in  §  171. 
One  of  the  advantages  there  enumerated  is  the  faet  that  vessels  bound 
to  the  westward  have  the  sun  behind  them ;  of  course  this  is  an  objec- 
tion when  going  in  an  opposite  direction. 


352  FROM  SINGAPORE   TO  AUSTRALIA. 

meridian — if  the  wind  allow.  Once  arrived  at  this  lon- 
gitude, and  if  bound  for  New  Zealand,  the  attempt  should 
be  made  to  cross  10C  S.  near  171°  or  172°  B. ;  thence  the 
course  should  be  to  the  southward,  close  along  the  west 
coast  of  the  Fijis,  as  the  east  winds  draw  to  the  southward 
in  January,  February,  and  March.  Once  beyond  the  reefs 
off  the  SE.  extremity  of  New  Caledonia,  the  track  is  clear. 
Vessels  bound  to  New  Caledonia  should  also  do  their  best  to 
work  well  east  near  the  equator,  as  far  as  152°  E.  It  is 
especially  necessary  to  cross  10°  S.  well  to  eastward,  as  the 
trades  during  the  southern  summer  are  from  E.  to  ESE.  as 
far  as  20°  S.  In  this  way  a  ship  can  pass  to  windward  of 
the  New  Hebrides,  which,  with  New  Caledonia,  seem  to 
form  a  barrier  between  the  trades  of  the  South  Pacific  and 
the  variable  winds  of  the  Coral  sea. 

"  Vessels  taking  the  Torres-strait  route  can  make  the  strait 
by  Prince  of  Wales  channel  or  Bligh  passage.  Thence  the 
route  lies  along  the  south  coasts  of  New  Guinea  and  Louis- 
iade ;  where  the  wind  will  be  found  from  W.  and  N W.,  and 
quite  steady  during  the  months  of  December,  January,  and 
February,  if  not  later  in  the  year." 

Auxiliary  steamers  can  also  take  the  inner  route  along  the 
east  coast  of  Australia.  As  an  example  of  this  latter  route 
we  quote  the  following  : 

Passage  of  the  Quicken,  (2d  rate,)  Captain  Perrier. — "Left 
Batavia  on  the  ICth  December,  1869.  Arrived  at  Soura- 
baya  on  the  18th  and  filled  up  with  coal.  Left  on  the  25th ; 
steamed  through  Madura  and  Bali  straits ;  banked  fires; 
after  passing  south  of  Timor,  reached  Torres  strait,  wind 
very  light  and  from  SW.  to  NW.  Ban  through  Torres 
strait  on  the  10th  January.  Took  the  inner  route,  an- 
choring sometimes  at  night.  Although  under  the  lee  of 
the  Great  Barrier  reef,  we  had  to  put  into  Cleveland  bay 
and  wait  for  a  favorable  slant  to  the  strong  SE.  winds. 
Anchored  off  Townsville,  a  place  of  500  or  600  inhabitants. 
Obtained  12  tons  of  coal  and  a  little  wood.  Left  on  the 
19th.  A  violent  gale  from  ESE.  on  the  21st  compelled  us 
to  anchor  under  the  lee  of  Percy  islands.  Remained  there 
2  days;  crew  cutting  wood  on  the  islands.  Got  under  way 
on  the  24th.  Anchored  in  Fitz-Eoy  river  on  the  25th,  17 
miles  from  Kockampton ;  vessel  drew  too  much  water  to  go 
any  farther  up  the  river.  Obtained  all  necessary  supplies. 
Sailed  on  the  30th,  ran  out  by  Curtis  channel,  and  headed 


FROM   CHINA   TO   AUSTRALIA.  053 

for  Noumea,  where  we  arrived  on  the  4th  February,  after 
a  50  days'  passage  from  Batavia." 
§  177.  ROUTE  FROM  CHINA  AND  JAPAN  TO  AUSTRALIA.—    '»fc  ""ring tie 

J  NK.  iu  ni soon. 

The  NB.  monsoon  prevails  from  October  to  April.  Sailing- 
vessels  from  Saigon  generally  run  south  of  Australia,  touch- 
ing at  Pulo-Aor,  (vide  §  170.)  They  reach  Carimata  pas- 
sage as  stated  in  §§  114  and  115,  and  follow  the  southerly 
route  through  the  Java  sea  as  far  as  Alias  strait.  Thence 
they  shape  their  course  for  the  south  of  Australia,  accord- 
ing to  the  instructions  given  in  §  175  and  the  latter  part  of 
§  104. 

Auxiliary  steamers,  bound  from  Saigon  to  Australia,  can  Fl°"'  Sa-gon. 
take  the  Torres-strait  route  from  the  middle  of  November  to 
the  middle  of  February.  The  passage  from  Saigon  to  Pulo- 
Aor  should  be  made  as  stated  in  §  170,  and  thence  to  Torres 
strait,  as  described  in  §  115.  For  information  concerning 
the  termination  of  the  voyage  by  the  inner  route,  vide  §  170. 
It  may  be  useful  to  remark,  that  it  is  not  probable  there  will 
be  any  opportunity  of  coaling  between  Kupang  and  Syd- 
ney. 

Auxiliary  steamers  can  also  run  from  Pulo-Aor  to  the 
Moluccas,  (vide§  114,)  and  then,  after  passing  north  of  New 
Guinea,  finish  the  voyage  as  given  for  sailing-vessels  in  §  176. 

It  is  hardly  advisable  for  ordinary  sized  auxiliary  steamers 
to  take  the  route  through  Torres  strait  except  from  the  15th 
of  November  to  the  15th  of  February,  as  they  will  at  any  -. 
other  season  be  compelled  to  use  a  great  deal  of  coal.  They 
should,  unless  absolutely  impossible,  take  the  route  south 
of  Australia  at  the  beginning  and  end  of  the  monsoon. 

Sailing- vessels  leaving  Hong-Kong  should  run  down  the  From  Hong 
China  sea  by  the  outer  route  described  in  §  151.  From  Pulo- 
Sapata  they  should  pass  east  of  the  Auambas,  and  then 
make  for  Carimata  passage.  They  can  also  steer  straight 
from  Pulo-Aor  to  Carimata  passage,  but  this  will  make  the 
voyage  a  little  longer.  Thence  the  route  runs  through  the 
southern  part  of  the  Java  sea  to  Alias  strait,  (vide  §  115.) 
For  information  concerning  the  route  south  of  Australia, 
vide  §  175  and  the  end  of  §  104. 

Auxiliary  steamers  leaving  Hong-Kong  should  always 
follow  the  same  track  as  sailing-vessels,  and  run  south  of 
Australia.     If  need  be,  however,  they  can  pass  north  of 
23  N 


354  FROM  CHINA  TO  AUSTRALIA. 

New  Guinea,  or  through  Torres  strait,  from  November  to 
March. 

If  it  be  decided  to  take  the  route  north  of  New  Guinea,  it 
will  first  be  necessary  to  run  through  Mindoro  and  Basilan 
straits;  and,  after  crossing  the  Celebes  sea,  to  reach  Mo- 
lucca passage  as  stated  in  §  152  under  the  head  of  the  first 
easterly  route.  This  route  has  already  been  advised  in 
§  152,  for  the  return  trip  from  China  against  the  SW.  mon- 
soon; it  is  also  easy  to  follow  it  during  the  NE.  monsoon. 
The  Moluccas  once  reached,  either  Dampier  or  Gilolo  strait 
may  be  used,  as  advised  in  the  second  route  described  in. 
§  150.  The  voyage  will  end  as  stated  in  §  176. 

There  is  still  another  route  for  an  auxiliary  steamer, 
namely,  that  which,  after  leaving  Basilan  strait,  runs  near 
the  Serangani  and  Meangis  islands.  For  further  informa- 
tion concerning  this  route,  vide  the  first  easterly  route  in 
§  152.  Steam  will  probably  have  to  be  used  against  the 
NE.  monsoon  during  a  portion  of  the  passage.  This  route 
passes  far  to  the  eastward  of  Morty  and  the  Asia  islands, 
and  north  of  New  Guinea,  (vide  §  176.) 

If  it  be  decided  to  pass  through  Torres  strait,  Molucca 
passage  should  also  be  used.  Take  the  channel  between 
Xulla  and  Obi-Major,  and  then  the  one  between  Buru  and 
Manipa.  Thence,  with  the  NW.  monsoon,  pass  south  of 
Banda,  Ki,  and  Arru  islands.  Cross  the  Arafura  sea  ac- 
cording to  the  instructions  given  in  §  115,  and  finish  the 
voyage  by  following  the  route  given  in  §  176. 

From  shang-  The  southerly  route  is  probably  the  best  for  sailing-ves- 
sels coming  from  Shanghae  to  Australia.  They  should  de- 
scend the  China  sea  as  stated  in  §§  165  and  167,  and  finish 
the  voyage  in  the  same  manner  as  if  they  had  started  from 
Hong-Kong. 

Auxiliary  steamers  starting  from  Shanghae,  and  not  wish- 
•  ing  to  run  south  of  Australia,  can  first  go  to  Yokohama, 
(vide  §  163;)  and,  after  coaling  there,  proceed  on  their  voy- 
age as  follows : 

From  Yokoha-  Both  sailing  and  auxiliary  steam  vessels,  after  leaving  Yo- 
kohama, should  take  the  northerly  route,  and  commence  the 
voyage  as  if  bound  to  California,  (vide  §§  119  and  120.)  The 
easting  should  be  made  north  of  the  30th  parallel,  or  far- 
ther to  northward,  if  necessary,  to  find  the  west  winds. 
They  should  not  bear  south  until  the  meridian  of  165°  or 


FROM  CHINA  TO  AUSTRALIA.  355 

even  172°  E.  is  reached.  Thence,  the  voyage  is  easily  accom- 
plished. Pass  west  of  the  Ealick  islands ;  and,  if  possible, 
east  of  Ualan  island.  The  NE.  trades  will  be  lost  between 
5°  N.  and  the  equator,  which,  should  generally  be  crossed 
between  162°  and  167°  E.  The  variable  winds  near  the 
equator  predominate  from  the  northward  and  westward  afc 
this  season,  and  usually  allow  vessels  to  pass,  first,  be- 
tween St.  Ch.ristoval  and  the  Santa  Cruz  islands  ;  then7  be- 
tween Mellish  and  Bampton  reefs ;  and,  finally,  east  of 
Kenn  reef  and  Cato  bank.  Thence  follow  the  route  from 
New  Caledonia  to  Australia  given  in  §  138.* 

The  S  W.  monsoon  prevails  from  April  to  October.     Sail-    *'•  During  the 

BW.  monsoon. 

ing-vessels  from  Saigon  run  through  Mindoro  and  Basilan 
straits,  (vide  §  158.)  Thence,  they  have  a  choice  between 
three  passages:  first,  Macassar  strait;  second,  Mulucca 
passage;  third,  the  passage  near  the  Serangani  islands  and 
Gilolo  strait,  (vide  the  easterly  routes  from  Hong-Kong  to  Froin  Suis°n- 
Europe  in  §  352.)  After  striking  the  SE.  winds  of  the  In- 
dian ocean  the  course  should  be  SW.,  clean  full,  for  the  west 
winds  near  30°  S.  For  information  concerning  the  end  of  the 
passage,  south  of  Australia,  vide  §  175  and  the  end  of  §  104. 

Auxiliary  steamers  starting  from  Saigon  can  make  a  more 
direct  course,  and  steam  to  Singapore  and  the  strait  of 
Sunda.  Thence  the  voyage  will  be  the  same  as  that  for 
sailing-vessels.  Auxiliary  steamers  can  also  run  through 
Miudoro  and  Basilan  straits,  and  pass  near  the  Serangani 
islands.  Thence  they  can  make  their  easting  between  4° 
N.  and  the  equator.  They  should  run  far  enough  to  the 
eastward  to  make  the  Solomon  islands  with  the  SE.  mon- 
soon, and  finish  the  voyage  as  described  in  §  176,  (for  the 
season  from  November  to  March.)  Though  several  authori- 
ties state  that  easting  can  be  mafle  under  canvas  near  the 
equator  at  all  seasons,  we  can  hardly  advise  this  route  for 
auxiliary  steamers,  (vide  appendix  to  this  paragraph.) 

Sailing  and  auxiliary -steam  vessels  leaving  Hong-Kong  From  Hong, 
should — according  to  the  time  of  starting — follow  one  of 
the  two  easterly  routes  described  in  §  152.  After  crossing 
the  SE.  trades  of  the  Indian  ocean  they  will  strike  the  west 
winds,  and  finish  the  voyage  as  described  in  §  175,  and  the 
end  of  §  104.  The  northerly  route  can  also  be  followed  dur- 

*The  reader  should  refer  to  the  Appendix  at  the  end  of  §  177. 


35o  FROM   CHINA   TO   AUSTRALIA. 

ing  the  SW.  monsoon;  in  which  case  the  course  is  the 
same  as  if  bound  for  Japan,  (vide  §  160;)  and  thence,  as  if 
the  point  of  departure  were  Yokohama. 

Auxiliary  steamers  leaving  Hong-Kong  can  take  the 
same  route  as  that  indicated  for  those  leaving  Saigon,  and 
r.un  north  of  New  Guinea;  this,  however,  is  a  route  we 
should  not  advise, 

From  stang-  Sailing  and  auxiliary-steam  vessels,  starting  from  Shanjrhae 
or  Japan,  should  take  the  northerly  route,  beginning  the 
voyage  as  if  bound  to  California,  (vide  §§  119  and  120.)  The 
west  winds  will  not  usually  be  found  below  35°  1ST.  It  is 
not  advisable  to  bear  south  until  beyond  167°  E.,  nor  is  it 
well — especially  in  a  sailing-ship — to  enter  the  trades  to 
westward  of  172°  E.  This  detour  is  more  marked  than  that 
given  for  the  route  during  the  NE.  monsoon ;  the  doldrums 
and  counter-currents  of  wind  in  the  western  part  of  the 
north  Pacific  are  thus  avoided.  The  voyage  will  end  in  the 
same  manner  as  that  described  for  vessels  leaving  during 
theNE.  monsoon. 

APPENDIX  TO  §  177.— We  will  complete  the  general 
instructions,  given  in  the  present  paragraph,  by  quoting 
the  following  considerations  on  the  voyage  from  China  to 
Australia,  (Ann.  Hydr.,  vol.  31:) 

"  In  December,  18GC,  nine  vessels  left  Fu-chu  for  Sydney  ; 
six  took  the  China  sea  route,  some  ran  through  the  strait 
of  Sunda,  and  others  through  Alias  strait  for  the  Indian 
ocean.  Two  others  and  myself  took  the  easterly  route,  and 
arrived  at  Sydney  in  52,  54,  and  56  days  respectively,  beat- 
ing the  other  vessels  by  from  12  to  25  days;  and  this  was 
the  worst  season  I  ever  had  for  making  easting  near  the 
line. 

uOn  the  7th  December,  1855, 1  left  the  Serangani  islands 
with  a  NE.  wind,  and,  steering  to  the  eastward,  ran  through 
Saint  George's  channel,  and  south  of  the  Solomon  isles. 
After  crossing  176°  E.  at  12°  S.  1  experienced  violent  north 
winds  until  I  reached  the  North  cape  of  New  Zealand  on 
the  10th  February. 

"Itosser  quotes  some  passages  made  by  the  easterly 
route,  from  May  to  September;  that  is,  during  the  SW. 
monsoon. 

"  Several  vessels,  attempting  this  route,  made  very  long 
passages;  one  took  101  days  from  Manila  to  Sydney,  and 


FROM   CHINA  TO   AUSTRALIA. 

tinotber  120  days  from  China  to  the  same  destination  ;  none 
of  them,  I  believe,  made  a  passage  of  less  than  90  days. 

"All  the  captains  who  made  this  voyage  state  that,  after 
losing  the  SW.  winds  near  the  Marrianas,  they  had  light 
east  winds  and  calms,  with  strong  westerly  currents. 
From  May  to  October,  according  to  my  experience,  the 
weather  between  2°  X.  and  3°  IS.  is  rainy  and  calm  all 
along  the  northern  coast  of  New  Guinea  after  leaving  the 
cape  of  Good  Hope.  During  most  years  the  currents  be- 
tween these  parallels  are  westerly  after  attaining  a  speed  of 
from  30  to  GO  miles  per  day.  Between  2°  30'  and  5°  30' 
N.  there  is  generally  an  easterly  current  at  this  season,  but 
a  merchant-vessel  will  find  it  hard  work  to  make  to  the 
eastward,  north  of  the  trades,  if  she  wishes  to  reach  170° 
E.  It  is  doubtful  if  she  can  always  clear  Pleasant  island. 
As  the  natives  of  this  island  are  very  savage  and  well 
armed,  a  vessel  in  these  localities,  and  in  need  of  stores, 
will  do  better  to  put  in  at  Arongs  (?)  island,  where  there  is 
an  American  mission  at  the  harbor  on  the  NE.  coast.  As- 
cension island  (Poiiapi)  is  also  comparatively  safe,  though 
it  is  best  not  to  trust  too  much  to  the  inhabitants. 

u  From  November  to  February  I  think  that  the  best  route 
from  China  to  Australia  consists  in  making  to  eastward, 
as  far  as  possible,  with  the  NE.  trades,  and  then  crossing 
the  equator.  There  is  a  clear  passage  between  the  Pelews 
and  the  Matelotas,  thence  keep  along  the  line  to  141°  E. 
There  is  a  low,  rocky  islet  or  reef  at  1°  X.  and  111°  E.  The 
route  passes  north  of  the  Anchorite  islands,  and  along  the 
equator  as  far  as  163°  E.,  passing  E.  of  Saint  Christoval, 
"W.  of  Bampton  reefs,  and  approaching  the  Australian 
coast  in  the  neighborhood  of  Moreton  bay.  It  is  best  to 
keep  near  the  coast,  if  bound  to  Sydney  or  Melbourne,  as 
NE.  and  E.  winds  are  frequent  during  the  summer." 

Passage  of  the  Esmeralda,  (vide  Nautical  Magazine.} — " '  Left 
Fu-chu  on  the  24th  September ;  passed  north  of  Formosa, 
and  ran  to  30°  N.  and  150°  E.,  in  order  to  cross  the  line  at 
162°  E. ;  passed  east  of  the  Solomon  islands,  west  of  New 
Caledonia,  and  arrived  at  Sydney  on  the  21st  Novem- 
ber, after  a  passage  of  58  days.'— (Observations  of  Captain 
Polaclc,  master  of  the  Esmeralda.)  After  taking  the  above 
route,  Captain  Polack  advises  ships  leaving  China,  from  the 
end  of  October  to  the  end  of  January,  to  pass  north  of  For- 


358  FROM   SYDNEY   TO   MELBOURNE. 

mosa,  if  they  can,  without  losing  time,  (referring  evidently 
*  to  vessels  from  Fu-chu.)  If  unable  to  double  Formosa  they 

can  run  between  that  island  and  the  Pescadores ;  and, 
after  clearing  the  Bashees,  stand  to  the  southward  and  east- 
ward until  able  to  cross  the  NE.  monsoon  with  a  topmast 
studding-sail  set.  The  line  will  thus  be  made  between  140° 
and  145°  E.  From  this  point  there  is  a  choice  between  two 
routes :  the  first — which  appears  to  be  the  less  desirable  of 
the  two — lies  close  to  the  equator,  and  passes  between  New 
Ireland  and  Bougainville ;  the  second,  and  better  one,  runs 
along  the  north  coast  of  New  Guinea,  and  between  that  isl- 
and and  New  Britain.  Once  arrived  at  10°  S.  and  157°  E. 
the  course  should  be  made  to  pass  some  distance  east  or  west 
of  Fairway  reef,  (?)  (about  161°  42'  E.)  North  winds  will 
generally  be  found  near  the  NE.  coast  of  Australia.  This 
route,  from  Fu-chu  to  Sydney,  is  some  600  miles  shorter 
than  the  easterly  route  along  30°  N.  to  155°  E.  It  is  also 
2,300  miles  shorter  than  the  route  south  of  Australia." 

Such  is  Captain  Polack's  advice.  Nothing  proves,  how- 
ever, that  he  ever  followed  the  route  himself.  Still,  we  will 
give  his  reasons  for  preferring  the  New  Guinea  route  to  that 
passing  between  New  Ireland  and  Bougainville.  He  does 
not  think  that  the  SW.  monsoon  reaches  as  far  to  the  east 
as  Captain  Hunter  states.  If  the  west  winds  reach  160° 
E.  it  is  only  in  exceptional  cases.  An  experienced  captain 
from  Sydney  states  that,  during  a  three  years'  cruise  in 
these  localities,  he  never  found  he  could  count  on  a  west 
wind.  This  opinion  is  also  substantiated  by  a  whaler  at 
home  iu  these  latitudes.  Captain  Polack  also  states  that, 
between  the  equator  and  10°  S.,  he  found  only  calms  and 
light  northerly  breezes,  with  no  indications  whatever  of  a 
west  wind.  He  is  firmly  convinced  that  off  New  Guinea 
west  winds  are  fresh  and  constant  from  November  to  Febru- 
ary, and  he  believes  that  the  passage  from  China  to  Syd- 
ney may  be  made  in  from  35  to  45  days,  especially  if  below 
the  line  in  January. 

§  178.  FROM  SYDNEY  TO  MELBOURNE. — Abundant  infor- 
mation has  been  furnished  by  Captain  Flinders,  on  this 
voyage,  and  especially  on  the  passage  through  Bass  strait 
from  east  to  west.  Following  are  his  remarks  : 

"The  three  months,  (January,  February,  and  March,) 
during  which  the  voyage  from  Sydney  to  Melbourne  may 


FROM  SYDNEY   TO  MELBOURNE. 

best  be  made,  correspond  to  the  season  when  the  passage 
through  Torres  strait  is  uncertain,  if  not  impracticable. 
Nor  would  it  be  advisable  to  enter  Bass  strait  before  the 
middle  of  December  or  even  the  middle  of  January. 

u  In  coming  from  Sydney,  or  from  any  other  port  situated 
to  the  NE.,  the  departure  may  be  taken  from  cape  Howe. 
Thence  the  course,  by  compass,  should  not  be  to  the  west- 
ward of  SSW.  until  39°  30'  S.  is  reached,  as  there  is  dan- 
ger of  the  wind  coming  out  from  SB.,  and  setting  the  vessel 
into  the  long  bight  between  cape  Howe  and  Wilson  prom- 
ontory. After  reaching  39°  30'  S.  steer  about  W.  by  S., 
leaving  the  Sisters,  Craggy  isle,  and  Wright  rock  (210  feet 
high)  to  port ;  that  is,  to  the  southward.  On  Deal  island — 
the  most  westerly  of  the  Kent  group— there  is  a  revolving 
light,  884*  feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea,  and  visible  37 
miles,  unless  hidden  by  the  mist,  which  often  happens 
on  account  of  the  great  elevation  of  the  light.  It  is 
situated  in  39°  29'  S.  and  147°  22'  E.,  and  is  a  good  land- 
mark. After  passing  3  or  4  miles  south  of  the  light-house 
the  other  islands  will  be  successively  raised  to  the  south ; 
pass  these  at  about  the  same  distance.  The  first  island  is 
a  small  one  lying  to  SW.,  and  S.  of  Judgment  reef;  next 
are  the  Sugar-Loaf  rocks  and  Curtis  island.  After  leaving 
the  latter  island  the  course  for  King  island  is  about  west, 
and  the  distance  120  miles.  Here  there  is  a  fixed  light,  visi- 
ble 24  miles,  but  it  is  best  to  pass  15  or  18  miles  north  of 
the  island,  if  the  wind  allow. 

"  If  the  weather  be  thick  or  rainy,  and  the  wind  come 
out  strong  ahead,  that  is,  from  S\y.,  there  are  many  points 
where  a  vessel  can  anchor.  The  following  are  the  best  an- 
chorages: 1st.  West  cove,  in  Erith  island.  This  island  is 
one  of  the  Kent  group,  and  is  separated  from  Deal  island  by 
Murray  pass.  2d.  Hamilton  roads,  near  the  east  point  of 
Preservation  isle.  This  small  island  is  situated  in  the 
northern  part  of  Banks  strait  between  Barren  island  and 
Clarke  island.  It  lies  several  miles  east  of  a  line  joining 
the  light  on  Swan  island  to  that  on  Goose  island.  3d.  On 
the  south  coast  of  Swan  island,  suitable  for  small  vessels ; 
or  under  the  lee  of  Waterhouse  isle,  situated  in  about  148° 
E.  near  the  north  coast  of  Tasmania.  4th.  At  Port  Dalrym- 

*  950  feet  above  the  sea,  according  to  Am.  Directory.— Translator. 


360  FROM  SYDNEY  TO  MELBOURNE. 

pie,  near  the  mouth  of  Tamar  river,  (north  coast  of  Tasma- 
nia.) 5th.  At  Port  Sorrel,  (12  miles  west  of  Port  Dalrym- 
ple,)  suitable  for  small  ships.  6th.  Several  places  among 
the  islands  of  the  Hunter  group,  off  the  NW.  point  of  Tas- 
mania. 7th.  At  Sea-Elephant  bay,  on  the  east  coast  of 
King  island,  where  wood  and  water  may  be  obtained.  There 
is  also  an  anchorage,  sheltered  from  SW.  winds,  off  tbeNE. 
point  of  this  island.  8th.  At  Port  Western,  between  Grant 
or  Phillip  island  and  the  Australian  coast,  near  the  merid- 
ian of  145°  10'  E,  Let  go  here  as  soon  as  you  are  under  the 
lee.  At  this  anchorage  the  wind  will  be  fair  for  getting 
under  way  and  clearing  Bass  strait.  9th.  At  Port  Phillip, 
Melbourne  roads. 

"As  the  weather  in  Bass  strait  is  variable  and  sudden 
shifts  of  wind  frequent,  it  is  advisable  to  take  all  precau- 
tions before  coming  to  anchor  in  an  open  roadstead,  and 
even  when  partially  under  the  lee  of  the  land  it  is  well  to 
be  ready  to  get  under  way  at  a  moment's  notice,  in  case 
the  wind  should  suddenly  change.  There  is  no  other  ad- 
vice especially  necessary,  as  navigation  through  Bass  strait 
does  not  require  more  than  the  usual  care  and  vigilance 
always  requisite  at  sea." 


